So something a bit different this time as I'm still hard at work on the next Stagea episode but it hasn't quite finished cooking. I often get a lot of questions asking me for advice on how to get started with fiberglass and so I decided I would finally start a playlist solely on fiberglassing techniques. This first video covers the absolute basics, how to make parts in the simplest way possible but as I go on I will be covering more and more advanced techniques in detail. A quick disclaimer, I was never taught how to do fiberglass so everything I know is just stuff I picked up myself over the years I've been doing this. So there might be stuff that I cover that isn't how it's normally done, but everything I show is something that I do myself and it's worked for me. I will be back to working on the Stagea in my next video. Thanks for watching and if you'd like, consider supporting on Patreon for behind the scenes updates as well as videos up to a week before they go live on TH-cam. www.patreon.com/TofuAutoWorks Thanks for watching
Dude sincerely thank you for this. I watch all your videos and am very impressed by your quality. I want to get into fiberglass too so you're exactly the right person to take lessons from
We the Internet thanks Thee. the amount of editing in your other videos prove how many hours you put into your work. i can't wait for the next one. it would be cool if you add a clock in the background lol
Love everything about your videos. They are not "viral videos" that go boom in a day and never to be watched again. But actual high quality videos that you can watch over and over again. I'm currently making a PANDEM(Kei Miura) inspired rear ducktail spoiler for my VW Golf MK6, and I've learned so much about custom bodywork from your channel. Totemo sugoi!
正直、日本の動画よりも解説が詳しくてわかりやすいと思う。ありがとう！ Honestly, I think the explanations are more detailed and easier to understand than Japanese videos. Thank you! From Japan
I'm currently saving up for a motorcycle custom build. With Brick House Builds for engine service and wiring, 46works for metal fabrication, Superfastmatt for the structural engineering, D4A for engine performance mods, and now you for the bodywork, it feels like having the avengers of TH-cam mentors to help me with my endeavors!
Thats awesome dude, good luck with the build. And superfastmatt has some good videos on forged carbon, I always find there's a major lack of ham sandwiches in my composites. 😂
A little tip, instead of using black dye in your resin (in this case), I just mix a small amount of whatever gel coat I use into the resin. Having tinted resin in my opinion makes the parts look so much more professional so I'm glad you also do it 👌🏻
Nice job. This is useful also for people like me who used to do work like this but don't do it now and now have projects at home and want to remind them self the technique. Also, if you can make tutorials for 3d scanning and creating parts, it will be very helpful to see what hardware and software you use and what the steps are and thank you for giving you knowledge and experience, man 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Cheers mate! We'll have to see how popular these videos end up being and if people like them then I might branch off from just fiberglass and look at other things like scanning and CAD. Might be a bit tricky since unlike fiberglass which uses a few basic tools, there's a huge range of 3D scanners and the technology and approach changes quite a lot depending on what you have. But I'll look into it!
As an old German model builder, I have to say that you sometimes make it very complicated for yourself! There is no need to take breaks and let everything dry, you can do everything directly in one go and save yourself all the rework if you work really accurately! I would love to show you how you could do it better and faster, but unfortunately you are too far away!
Thanks for watching even though it sounds like you've definitely got some experience! And while it is possible to combine the fiberglassing into one step, this is a beginners tutorial and so I wanted to make it as fool proof as possible. As I'm sure someone with your experience will know, polyester resins like the one I've used here are known to shrink back slightly, and the best method for minimizing this effect is by building up the fiberglass slowly in multiple layers without adding too much heat. The other reason to split it up into 2 steps is because again, since this is for beginners, a lot of people just learning to fiberglass might mix too much resin or mix too much catalyst and it will start to cure on them rather fast. Doing 2 steps makes sure that there is plenty of time to get all the air bubbles out of the coupling coat. Lastly you'll notice that there was no filler or rollers used in this and all the airbubbles had to be poked out with just a chip brush and a skewer. Trying to do this with 3 layers of fiberglass is very tricky, especially with tight corners. And it gives you no opportunity to repair any airbubbles with the next layer of fiberglass.
@@TofuAutoWorks I understand what you mean. For tight corners, I would always recommend mixing resin with loose pieces of fiberglass to a pulp and then smearing it in the corners where air bubbles can form. Carrying out all the work steps directly one after the other also ensures that all layers connect better with each other. I have learned to wait with the pot life and then start directly with the resin layer and glass fiber. Leaving the gel code dry can lead to the fact that it does not bond so well with the lower fiberglass layer and later breaks out at some point.
@@Design-g5h Deutsch 😉 I haven't worked with it for the last few years, as you can see it's very time consuming, Tofu has been doing it for over a year now for this body kit, it can be done quicker but it's only worth it if you do it professionally, which I no longer do. Tuning in Germany has changed a lot and we have the TÜV here which doesn't allow many things or makes them very difficult! The TÜV wants to check all modifications to the car, which can be very expensive, and that puts many people off modifying their car. That's why there are hardly any people left who buy body kits and there is no longer a market for them.
Very nice step by step. I have been making notes through all the videos. As a result, I only do the ‘quick n dirty’ mold release wax 😃🙈 But then again, I rarely use my molds twice 🤷♂️
Your channel is an absolute goldmine of great content and in depth information filmed and demonstrated super clearly, absolutely loving it keep it up man!!!
while I definitely do not have the skill to make parts, like so many others I was definitely curious on how this is all done. Its really cool to see the process like this. :D
The outcome of the work is nice but could you at least explain what are those mixtures you are making to get the work done and how long do you have to wait after each process is done?
00:00 Please press the CC button to turn on video subtitles. All my videos support multiple languages as this is more helpful than me just talking in one.
If I were in charge of an automobile manufacturer, I would make him a special advisor and put him in charge of independent divisions such as GR, NISMO etc.
It is something you just get a feeling for. When I'm making a part for the first time and I have no idea how much it will take, I make a guess and then I'll sometimes mix up about half that amount and after applying that I'll know how much I need to finish it. If you try to mix up the full amount and end up only 50ml short or something, it can be tricky to measure out that small an amount of resin and catalyst accurately so I try to make sure I'm always mixing more than 100ml or so.
My go to is always, coupling coat of 1 layer of 225 gsm, let that cure, then 2 layers of 450. It's nice and solid, and I've never had any issues with fenders, bonnets, bumpers etc..
Did you add wax to the poly resin? If the first layer dries a little tacky after curing time, is it safe to add the second layer of fiberglass and poly resin?
This sort of polyester resin comes with wax added to it from the supplier so that it will air cure and not leave a tacky surface unlike the resin sometimes used in boat building.
What were the names of all the chemical mixes you used before laying your fiberglass and after and how to know how much to mix together those parts were throwing me off but everything was really easy to see what you did
Would this work on a Subaru timing cover ? Or is there’d too many little details. I was looking to copy my EG33 ones since they don’t make them anymore
This lip and most of the other things I will be making in this fiberglass basics series are just items for random cars that I have for sale here in NZ. This particular lip is part of my Miata widebody kit.
if you did, then it wouldn't stick... The PVA and mold release go on the mold surface. If you are using laminating resin, you can spray PVA on your final layer to let the final surface cure, like using waxed resin.
15:53 beautifully shown why making anything from fiberglass is worthless. Only ABS plastic, is flexible and durable... unfortunately the possibility of making anything from it is reserved for the few.
The goal with this video was to show how to make fiberglass parts at the lowest cost and with the fewest tools. I'll be making more of these gradually introducing more tools and techniques.
Chopped strand is generally a lot easier especially for beginners. It conforms better to complex shapes and because you can rip it to shape, you're able to use it with almost no offcuts or waste unlike woven where you often have small scraps that you can't really use.
Thanks. Yes, if you can get a fiberglass roller it will make removing air bubbles much easier. It's also possible to make them yourself using metal washers.
All of my videos include subtitles in multiple languages that cover in detail all the steps and materials included. The two black products I used in this video were gelcoat, which can be left off if you are making parts from scratch without a mould, and black dye added to my resin purely for cosmetic reasons.
Just a question, anyway to make a part, the fastest and still most accurate "copy" and strengthen wise not compromised.... like a fender or a front lip....⁉️ Nicely done! Like your videos...👍
To make a perfect copy you will need to make a mould, there are a few videos in the description on mould making. If you only want to make a single copy and you don't mind if it's slightly larger than it should be (about 3.5mm bigger on all sides for fiberglass, and between 1.0 - 2.5mm for carbon fiber) then you could skin the part in fiberglass or carbon after apply release agent to the part itself, and then pop that new skin off the part and do any required finishing or sanding work. This method is pretty common for people replacing roofs or quarter panels with carbon fiber, simply lay the carbon over the existing part, remove the carbon once it's dried, cut the original part away, then bond the carbon back in place.
Vacuum infusion is what is used when you need a very precise and uniform application of resin, but it just doesnt make sense for parts this simple and cheap.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
So something a bit different this time as I'm still hard at work on the next Stagea episode but it hasn't quite finished cooking.
I often get a lot of questions asking me for advice on how to get started with fiberglass and so I decided I would finally start a playlist solely on fiberglassing techniques. This first video covers the absolute basics, how to make parts in the simplest way possible but as I go on I will be covering more and more advanced techniques in detail.
A quick disclaimer, I was never taught how to do fiberglass so everything I know is just stuff I picked up myself over the years I've been doing this. So there might be stuff that I cover that isn't how it's normally done, but everything I show is something that I do myself and it's worked for me.
I will be back to working on the Stagea in my next video.
Thanks for watching and if you'd like, consider supporting on Patreon for behind the scenes updates as well as videos up to a week before they go live on TH-cam.
www.patreon.com/TofuAutoWorks
Thanks for watching
Dude sincerely thank you for this. I watch all your videos and am very impressed by your quality. I want to get into fiberglass too so you're exactly the right person to take lessons from
We the Internet thanks Thee. the amount of editing in your other videos prove how many hours you put into your work. i can't wait for the next one. it would be cool if you add a clock in the background lol
Awesome
You have no idea how much I wanted this video out of you. It's like.... the key to your car
The black dye is a good clean touch of professionalism. Great video, and no BS. :)
Love everything about your videos. They are not "viral videos" that go boom in a day and never to be watched again. But actual high quality videos that you can watch over and over again. I'm currently making a PANDEM(Kei Miura) inspired rear ducktail spoiler for my VW Golf MK6, and I've learned so much about custom bodywork from your channel.
Totemo sugoi!
正直、日本の動画よりも解説が詳しくてわかりやすいと思う。ありがとう！
Honestly, I think the explanations are more detailed and easier to understand than Japanese videos. Thank you! From Japan
I'm currently saving up for a motorcycle custom build. With Brick House Builds for engine service and wiring, 46works for metal fabrication, Superfastmatt for the structural engineering, D4A for engine performance mods, and now you for the bodywork, it feels like having the avengers of TH-cam mentors to help me with my endeavors!
Thats awesome dude, good luck with the build. And superfastmatt has some good videos on forged carbon, I always find there's a major lack of ham sandwiches in my composites. 😂
I'm about to start doing fiberglass work on my car so this came out just in time! Thanks
What an amazing tutorial, together with Pask Makes you’re by far my favourite TH-cam channel!
Thanks mate!
The Joy of Fiberglassing with Tofu Auto Works
A little tip, instead of using black dye in your resin (in this case), I just mix a small amount of whatever gel coat I use into the resin.
Having tinted resin in my opinion makes the parts look so much more professional so I'm glad you also do it 👌🏻
Excellent video. Thanks for posting. Very informative. Cheers from Texas.
A masterclass. Very cool to see the you explain every reason for the decisions made.
Great work as always!
without question the most helpful video I have seenabout laying up fiberglass in complex shapes... wish I had seen it sooner
"For some reason there's alot of dust in my workshop. No idea why."
The world is full of mysteries. 😆
Excellent video for beginners in fiberglass! Very clear and well explained, directly to the pont!
Круто!!! Наблюдаю за твоими работами. У тебя золотые руки! 👍🏻
Nice job. This is useful also for people like me who used to do work like this but don't do it now and now have projects at home and want to remind them self the technique. Also, if you can make tutorials for 3d scanning and creating parts, it will be very helpful to see what hardware and software you use and what the steps are and thank you for giving you knowledge and experience, man 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Cheers mate! We'll have to see how popular these videos end up being and if people like them then I might branch off from just fiberglass and look at other things like scanning and CAD. Might be a bit tricky since unlike fiberglass which uses a few basic tools, there's a huge range of 3D scanners and the technology and approach changes quite a lot depending on what you have. But I'll look into it!
As an old German model builder, I have to say that you sometimes make it very complicated for yourself! There is no need to take breaks and let everything dry, you can do everything directly in one go and save yourself all the rework if you work really accurately! I would love to show you how you could do it better and faster, but unfortunately you are too far away!
Thanks for watching even though it sounds like you've definitely got some experience!
And while it is possible to combine the fiberglassing into one step, this is a beginners tutorial and so I wanted to make it as fool proof as possible. As I'm sure someone with your experience will know, polyester resins like the one I've used here are known to shrink back slightly, and the best method for minimizing this effect is by building up the fiberglass slowly in multiple layers without adding too much heat.
The other reason to split it up into 2 steps is because again, since this is for beginners, a lot of people just learning to fiberglass might mix too much resin or mix too much catalyst and it will start to cure on them rather fast. Doing 2 steps makes sure that there is plenty of time to get all the air bubbles out of the coupling coat.
Lastly you'll notice that there was no filler or rollers used in this and all the airbubbles had to be poked out with just a chip brush and a skewer. Trying to do this with 3 layers of fiberglass is very tricky, especially with tight corners. And it gives you no opportunity to repair any airbubbles with the next layer of fiberglass.
@@TofuAutoWorks I understand what you mean. For tight corners, I would always recommend mixing resin with loose pieces of fiberglass to a pulp and then smearing it in the corners where air bubbles can form. Carrying out all the work steps directly one after the other also ensures that all layers connect better with each other. I have learned to wait with the pot life and then start directly with the resin layer and glass fiber. Leaving the gel code dry can lead to the fact that it does not bond so well with the lower fiberglass layer and later breaks out at some point.
upload a video of how you would do it then plz
Make a video my ferman friend
@@Design-g5h Deutsch 😉 I haven't worked with it for the last few years, as you can see it's very time consuming, Tofu has been doing it for over a year now for this body kit, it can be done quicker but it's only worth it if you do it professionally, which I no longer do. Tuning in Germany has changed a lot and we have the TÜV here which doesn't allow many things or makes them very difficult! The TÜV wants to check all modifications to the car, which can be very expensive, and that puts many people off modifying their car. That's why there are hardly any people left who buy body kits and there is no longer a market for them.
Very nice step by step.
I have been making notes through all the videos.
As a result, I only do the ‘quick n dirty’ mold release wax 😃🙈 But then again, I rarely use my molds twice 🤷♂️
Your channel is an absolute goldmine of great content and in depth information filmed and demonstrated super clearly, absolutely loving it keep it up man!!!
this video is perfect timing as i'm just about to make a full body kit for my car ( starting with a front lip ) thank you for the great video!
Good job Tofu, joli tuto sur la fibre de verre.🎉
i admire this guy using an angle grinder as a dremel
I nearly fell out of my chair laughing at the “beat the devil out of it” bit 🤣
while I definitely do not have the skill to make parts, like so many others I was definitely curious on how this is all done. Its really cool to see the process like this. :D
Спасибо! Очень интересно и познавательно! Нашёл для себя некоторые важные моменты, которые упускают в других видео
Thank you
You really help everyone. Your videos are awesome. Congratulations
I don't even have a car but damn this is a good tutorial. It was pretty entertaining to watch
おっ？
今日はリップ製作動画ですな？
こーやって１から説明して作ってくれるから優しいんだよなぁ。
無理せずに頑張っていこうね！
Mega useful video for beginners such as myself :)
😊SALUTE YOUR HARD WORK SIR 💪 👏 🎉
So awesome that you put out another vid much love from the sf bayarea.
Класс. Теперь можно будет посмотреть базовые вещи в работах со стекловолокном и смолами. 👍
Great video that’s for sharing. Always a pleasure.😊
Great video as always, Bob Ross 😉
That was a short one this week. And almost without sanding 🙂
Superfast Matt says "You will never not sand." lol
Oh thank god, i was a little bit worried that there's no sanding in this vid 😄👍
Haha, I have to include at least some sanding in every video, it's in my contract. 😂
Всё как всегда на высоте 👍.
This vodeo is amazing. thank you for making it!
invaluable, thank you so much
Doing the lords work with this video! Wonder if making a carbon version would be kind of similar
Looks like a 911 part. Creating the plug is where the real fun is.
Nice! A picture is worth a thousand words...in this case; a video😂
Fam this was a seriously cool video🎉
Brilliant 👍
2:25 I have the same calculator. I used to use it for highschool way back in the day.
Anther geat video bro! Keep it up :))
The outcome of the work is nice but could you at least explain what are those mixtures you are making to get the work done and how long do you have to wait after each process is done?
00:00
Please press the CC button to turn on video subtitles. All my videos support multiple languages as this is more helpful than me just talking in one.
@TofuAutoWorks Noted...thank you very much
If I were in charge of an automobile manufacturer, I would make him a special advisor and put him in charge of independent divisions such as GR, NISMO etc.
soooooooooo gooooooooood bro!
ba que lindo que ficou.
日本語字幕ありがとう！
Well done sir
Amazing tutorial sir tofu! One more question tho, do you calculate the amount of resin before laying up the fiberglass or its just a feeling 😅!
It is something you just get a feeling for. When I'm making a part for the first time and I have no idea how much it will take, I make a guess and then I'll sometimes mix up about half that amount and after applying that I'll know how much I need to finish it.
If you try to mix up the full amount and end up only 50ml short or something, it can be tricky to measure out that small an amount of resin and catalyst accurately so I try to make sure I'm always mixing more than 100ml or so.
@@TofuAutoWorks makes sense thanks for the answer!!
Awesome video.that tutorial i was try to find.Thanks
love the bob ross beating
Magnifique 😊
Шикарно!!!
Another good video!! Good described. I'm still trying to find a good adress to buy the same resin aso here in austria
Hi u r very good nice work
How many layers of fibreglass would you say is sufficient for body panels and bumpers?
My go to is always, coupling coat of 1 layer of 225 gsm, let that cure, then 2 layers of 450. It's nice and solid, and I've never had any issues with fenders, bonnets, bumpers etc..
@TofuAutoWorks cheers, thankyou
Did you add wax to the poly resin? If the first layer dries a little tacky after curing time, is it safe to add the second layer of fiberglass and poly resin?
This sort of polyester resin comes with wax added to it from the supplier so that it will air cure and not leave a tacky surface unlike the resin sometimes used in boat building.
What were the names of all the chemical mixes you used before laying your fiberglass and after and how to know how much to mix together those parts were throwing me off but everything was really easy to see what you did
Gel coat is generally catalyzed with 2% MEKP, and poly resin with 1%. If you use metric measurements you don't need a calculator. :)
Would this work on a Subaru timing cover ? Or is there’d too many little details. I was looking to copy my EG33 ones since they don’t make them anymore
Sir. How did you sculpt the original?
Beat the devil out of it :0 HE KNOWS
I tthink I might have an idea where all he dust comes from. haha Out of curiousity, what does that lip fit and what other parts are you producing?
This lip and most of the other things I will be making in this fiberglass basics series are just items for random cars that I have for sale here in NZ. This particular lip is part of my Miata widebody kit.
No need for the pva and wax mold release after the gelcoat prior to the first layer of fiberglass mat?
if you did, then it wouldn't stick... The PVA and mold release go on the mold surface. If you are using laminating resin, you can spray PVA on your final layer to let the final surface cure, like using waxed resin.
Drill a small hole and separate the mold with compressed air
Don't you feel itchy? How do you deal with it?
Cute sand timer... LOL
Yea sinple to make provided you have a mold please show us how you made that tanaka san
Nice example showing how unsupported gel coat easily gives way but I'm not sure if everyone understands what you were trying to show.
15:53 beautifully shown why making anything from fiberglass is worthless. Only ABS plastic, is flexible and durable... unfortunately the possibility of making anything from it is reserved for the few.
I mean where do you get the mold? It is hardest part.
Vc tem que umedecer a peça primeiro antes de depositar a manta, se não o fizer, a manta não dá uma boa pega no gel.
don’t you usually use a consolidating roller? also i thought you might make it an ENTIRE video without sanding, but nope… :) :)
The goal with this video was to show how to make fiberglass parts at the lowest cost and with the fewest tools. I'll be making more of these gradually introducing more tools and techniques.
Why do you use the chopped fiber fiberglass instead of woven mats?
Chopped strand is generally a lot easier especially for beginners. It conforms better to complex shapes and because you can rip it to shape, you're able to use it with almost no offcuts or waste unlike woven where you often have small scraps that you can't really use.
Very excellent. I follow you on TH-cam. I asked you before Sadiq to send me 2 iron rolls to release the air. I hope you can advise. Thank you.
Thanks. Yes, if you can get a fiberglass roller it will make removing air bubbles much easier. It's also possible to make them yourself using metal washers.
My dear friend, I stopped sending you this iron roll. I can't understand anything. @@TofuAutoWorks
Can that resin be sprayed with a paint gun?
There's a special gun for the gel coat.
Que es el producto negro?
Gracias por tu respuesta... Saludos
All of my videos include subtitles in multiple languages that cover in detail all the steps and materials included.
The two black products I used in this video were gelcoat, which can be left off if you are making parts from scratch without a mould, and black dye added to my resin purely for cosmetic reasons.
So now I understand why my parts arn´t coming out right, I fogot to put the TOFU sticker on ;-)
Wht use cemicl name?
Just a question, anyway to make a part, the fastest and still most accurate "copy" and strengthen wise not compromised.... like a fender or a front lip....⁉️
Nicely done! Like your videos...👍
To make a perfect copy you will need to make a mould, there are a few videos in the description on mould making.
If you only want to make a single copy and you don't mind if it's slightly larger than it should be (about 3.5mm bigger on all sides for fiberglass, and between 1.0 - 2.5mm for carbon fiber) then you could skin the part in fiberglass or carbon after apply release agent to the part itself, and then pop that new skin off the part and do any required finishing or sanding work.
This method is pretty common for people replacing roofs or quarter panels with carbon fiber, simply lay the carbon over the existing part, remove the carbon once it's dried, cut the original part away, then bond the carbon back in place.
It's like looking at the same shit over and over again for the last 2 years
i wonder why the place that you sanded for a month straight in is so dusty ;)
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👌🏾👌🏾👌🏾👌🏾
❤
Tbem, é muito mais fácil e rápido laminar com um rolinho de lã, o que tambem elimina as bolhas no laminado.
Methlamine doesn't grow on trees....where can one get it? That's the catch...
it looks very thin unless you maybe attach with heavy duty double sided tape
I'm also Repair fyber material things
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
bare hands too
まさかの ボブ・ロス^ ^
Holy shit
Why haven't anybody introduced a new application process than the dab dab dab dab dab dab dab
Mind: I shall build a machine that will apply the best even coat of resin to avoid this
Love your vid
Vacuum infusion is what is used when you need a very precise and uniform application of resin, but it just doesnt make sense for parts this simple and cheap.
Did the cat got your tongue?
I can't hear anything, it's like those movies where everything has subtitles, the actors speaks Korean
Can this guy talk or is he just don’t want to How to make the mold would be a start