Calculating how much time this takes, price to be paid for ignoring wife and family. How many shifts of overtime it would take to buy this.......looks like I'll pick up a few shifts of overtime and have this delivered when my wife is gone to visit family.
The four videos you have on your channel are BY FAR the most intelligent, concise and in-depth I've found on youtube for how to work with carbon fiber. Thank you very much for all the effort you put into this series.
You're welcome. Please just spread the word about our company; we do these videos to share our passion for carbon fibre and composites and to raise our profile around the world. If the 100hrs+ we put into filming and editting this series helps a few people to make some really amazing parts (or even start a business) and gets us one or two links on forums and blogs then it's all worthwhile.
Off course sir I will share your work. I'm trying to get out of poverty with this skill. Long story but I have a trade under me and I will rise again..I will help you also along the way.
I must say, I'm so impressed by the professional process used. I guess that's why you end up with the immaculate finish. Cant wait to see how the final product turns out!
I recently started working in composites after working with metallics the majority of my career and these videos are invaluable. I just wish I had a big enough garage to do this at home. Thanks
I really wish I'd watched this $200 (in materials) ago. :) Great series - thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I used hot glue to attach flange forms to my plug, but didn't put tape down beforehand. Because, hey, how hard can it be to remove hot glue? (ProTip: It's not difficult, but super time-consuming. Use the tape.) Also, filleting wax is freaking impossible to find in the US. I've found that a sulfur-free oil-based modeling clay works very well. It doesn't dry out, PVA will stick to it, and it's easy to remove from the plug once the mold is complete. (I'm not an expert - just making this stuff up as I go along.)
Depends on the engine bay temperatures. A engine with good heat shielding will generally not be a problem as the air temp under the bonnet will not likely reach more than 60C. Some high powered cars may be higher so you need to check.
Yes, the mould can be reused dozens if not hundreds of times. We use Uni-Mould based moulds in our own workshop for some of our production parts and they wear very well. The more you look after them the better they will last. By having a good gelcoat finish you can also at occasional intervals re-polish the mould to take out any scratches or dulling that has occured with regular use.
@easycompositestv when I initially asked, I meant at the same time as moulding the rest of the hood, but now that you mentioned doing it separately I'm curious about that as well. My question on the second one how would I bond and blend it if I did it separately? Any shared knowledge on both ways would be greatly appreciated.
I would like to do as much of my car as possible , I have a '67 Toronado - nearly 5000lbs ! This video series has really inspired me to Replicate all the front end metal -Hood Fenders in and out - Rad support and the valences , Doors deck lid and I even would like to attempt to do the Body Shell ..
@easycomposites these videos are a godsend. Never thought I'd be able to make my own carbon fiber parts. Thanks to you guys I'm halfway through a new intake manifold. Your in depth videos are easy to follow and saved me a ton of time and potentially expensive mistakes.
Have you ever tried using a ball stylus tool to smooth the clay/wax to a smooth an even fill? Comes out looking like brick mortar and you can match the ball size to the curve needed to prevent locking.
I love the video, it gives me a new appreciation into why carbon fiber parts are so bloody expensive. I wanted to make parts for my old 82 LeSabre, Buick, just to be different and improve it's economy but had to sell the car. I was slightly regretting it when I read the title to this video then I thought, holy hell you used up like 8 sheets of fiberglass matting, chopmat, and you haven't even made the part yet. I would have rather just stripped the parts off the car, sent them to you and have you do it because to quote another American, "ain't nobody got time fo dat (Kimberly "Sweet Brown" Wilkins)"
It is a time consuming process but as you have seen, the results can be stunning. For many individuals, the "cost" of their own personal time is well worth it, versus the cost of buying or commissioning someone else to make the parts.
I know the feeling, when I would tear down and rebuild the top half of my own engine then to hear it fire up on the first try was quite the experience, dropping off a broke down car then picking up at a shop running again just isn't the same.
Lots of patience required to do this line of work. I could see why CF hoods and other parts are pricy because of the skill set and labor behind it. Good job dude! 👍🏽 keep up the good work you do. 😎
Old video but you're doing a fantastic job as a teacher and this has aged very well. The methods are pretty much identical when it comes to aircraft composites. You could probably take this video and teach new aircrafts structures guys how to do the basics of composites with this.
Thanks Stoweby, I reckon there are quite a few composites professions that use this video (and several of our other ones) to introduce apprentices to composites processes! We’ve done an updated infusion video very recently and we’ll probably be doing some more soon as well.
@@easycompositestv Excellent! I'm always interested in seeing how composites technology has evolved over time. I have you guys saved now that you've come across my feed. I wish more people knew how fun it can be to do this with a little practice and patience.
Yes, looking back on our humble beginnings (check out the CarbonMods channel for our very earliest videos), we've come a long way. We're trying to get the balance though so expect some more home builder/DIY videos alongside the more complex ones moving forwards, especially as technology and equipment change and become more accessible :)
In this video we're using a 200g 2/2 twill 3k carbon fibre for the visible layers. We use a Lantor Soric SF2 core material on the top skin and for the inner skin we use the 2/2 twill 200g fibre again backed-up with a 650g 12k carbon. When you're laying reinforcement into the mould dry it should be quite easy to keep the weave nicely aligned. It normally gets distorted in a wet-lay process when you're pushing it around with a brush or roller. You don't have that problem with resin infusion.
@PatruDragos I'm not sure I understand the question, if you want to make a fibreglass copy of your bumper then you will need to make a mould first (like we do in this video) and then you can make your fibreglass bumper using traditional fibreglass materials. Lots of curves should not really make much difference.
At 14:45, you start painting gelcoat onto the part. You've talked about the release tape and filet wax but don't mention applying any release coatings to the bonnet's surface. Later on after you've cut off the excess fabric, you separate the two molds which suggests you did apply a release coat to both the topside gelcoat and the underside of the bonnet. Did I miss the step or something else?
+michael greene : Hi Michael, release agent is applied to the original part (and the flanges of the other side of the mould) but we did it slightly earlier in the video at 13:20. This step is indeed very important :)
Fantastic! Professionally presented, clear and precise. I wish all TH-cam tutorials were as good as this (no naf music or egotistical waffling host). I’ve subscribed and I will be buying the products. 👍👏🏻
The mould making process (as shown in this video) does produce fumes, you need good ventilation and you could also wear a mask. At normal low levels it's not dangerous. Making the part itself (the resin infusion) is low risk; good ventilation should be adequate. Trimming the part requires (video 3) requires a good mask because you're generating lots of fine dust. Take a look at our new cutting safety video if you want to learn more about masks.
I watch this a couple times, but after you get your head around it, it’s really not as tough as you think you have to watch a couple times and you can understand all the aspects very easily
Thank you so much for creating this video series. I've always wanted to see a simple straight forward explanation of how this process is done. This has really got me excited to try this myself someday.
Yes, that's what I was talking about. The original hood will certainly come out of the new mould no problem but because I ground off the latch and hinge-pins then the original steel part cannot be fitted back on the car (it was only £50 off eBay anyway!). If you want to keep the original in a condition where it can be put back on your car then you would have to work around any bolts or catches which is perfectly do-able but a little more awkward.
Knocked it out of the park! By far the most detailed, professional, well thought out and executed training video on producing (complex) parts I've seen on TH-cam to date.. Thoroughly inspiring. And this is from a "supplier"? Builders take note.. This is how you do it, IMHO. String a few of these vids together on DVD and the only question I would have is "where do I send the money?" :o) Companies like this deserve our business. I'm in the US but will be looking to Easy C. (in the UK) to "help" me get started. This is not the type of process where you want to skimp on price or talent. GR8T job guys (and gals). Really appreciate it. p.s. Thank God there was no music :o]
That looks like it takes a lot of patience, but still looks pretty easy watching him do it. We'll see what making the actual part looks like. Well done and using proper clear and concise English. I'm just glad the guy is not from India.
OvalWingNut While watching this video, I was planning my comments, but you took the words right out of my mouth. Well spoken and good luck to your business.
It is a way of explaining how to make corbon fiber cor bonnet molds as a step by step process. If possible, I would like to ask for more, explaining the components first and the mixture of chemicals mixed before the lecture. If possible, all brands of chemicals used to do this. Finally, the summary of this cost
The video covers all the process you mention. If you watch the video series through our Easy Composites website, we have a product list next to each video showing you what was used. You can find the first video here: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/composites-tutorials/make-a-carbon-fibre-bonnet-hood-part1
insane how an 8 (going on 9) year old video series can make me better than newer videos. Videos like this make me happy that i don't have to go to college.
1st off - these videos are fantastic thank you for providing them! @easycompositestv I have a specific question regarding compatibility and chemicals used in this video. At minute 6:45 in the video, one of the reasons he gives for using vinylester getcoat resin for his mold is to ensure a clean release of the part (which will be carbon fiber and epoxy). I understand that vinyl ester resin is "compatible" with epoxy.... But, since the gelcoat will both be fully cured, and coated with release agent before the epoxy/cf part is put onto the mold, is 'compatibility' an issue? Wouldn't compatibility just be as issue if one was going to try to chemically bond epoxy to a gelcoat... in which case you would want vinylester gelcoat since it is compatible with the epoxy? I have always only worked with epoxy in my work so far, so 'compatibility' between resin systems is new to me in most cases. If someone could take a look and chime in with some knowledge, that would be awesome!!! Thank you.
Hi Marc, thanks for your feedback. Regarding compatibility, it's a great question as it would make sense for a fully cured surface protected with release agent to release without issue. This isn't always the case however, and epoxy tends to stick to the majority of polyester gelcoats, regardless of release agent. It doesn't require a particularly strong adhesion to cause a part to stick to a mould and for some reason epoxy sticks to polyester moulds, there may be some combinations out there which work, but in general we suggest avoiding this combination. Vinylester tool surfaces offer a much more reliable release when working with epoxies and of course epoxy tools are also fine to use.
@@easycompositestv Thank you for the quick response! So it is a different sort of incompatibility … interesting. My problem with ordering from easycomposites is I am in hawaii. The cost of shipping from that far is much more than the cost of the resin itself unfortunately. I am looking for an alternative place to order or purchase from… if you have a partnering company in hawaii or the mainland USA with the same or equilivent product (vinylester gel coat), I would very much appreciate the recommendation !! Thanks again for the quick response. And again for the videos. Aloha!
@@216MCollins We don't have a dispatch centre in the US I'm afraid. Part of the issue is the fixed courier fee we are charged for shipping dangerous goods which makes smaller orders relatively more expensive. We are looking into options for reducing the cost to our US customers but at this moment in time the only option is through the main UK site.
That about sums it up! So long as you have the information in this video then every step is perfectly achievable and should work just like it does in the video, there are just a LOT of steps to make a top class carbon fibre bonnet/hood like this but it's an amazing project to undertake and the finished product would be better than almost any carbon fibre bonnet/hood on the market (bulk manufacturers cut LOTS of corners).
how much would it cost to produce a pair of moulds to create a pair of carbon fiber front wings for a car? something I'm interested in doing. or a cnc mould?
@@ilikefishing7858 Depends on size of the wings, moulding materials used eg a traditional composite mould may only be a few hundred pounds, CNC billet tooling could be thousands
In total we used about 20kgs of the Uni-Mould resin, 7kgs of chopped strand mat, 5kgs of the coupling coat and 5kgs of the tooling gelcoat however this is a small part (a FIAT 500) and a larger part would require more resins and glass. Remember that we made an inside mould and an outside mould.
Good laminating procedure mostly. The fact you are using the coupling coat and the fine CSm will help ensure the coupling layer conforms tightly to the gel thus limiting chance of air voids. Also copious use of the roller helps get air out as you laminate.
I hope your still in business as follows. I have an old car and a garage that was supposed to be looking after my pride and joy. Were leaning on the wings and knees, have cause bruising to the wings as they looked in the engine bay. Plus elbows on the rood as they no doubt had their pictures taken. The garage that subcontracted the work wanted nothing to do with it. I was almost in tears and told by those in the know. There was nothing I could do. With the final words of you brought it to us like that. Strange thing the car had won a concours event only weeks earlier. Plus folks sitting in my car with coveralls on and marked the leather. My word against theirs I was heart broken. Therefore I want to make moulds to put over the car if anyone ever works on her again. This car is my pride and joy and I could not believe that a garage could treat a clients car like this. So your video will save the day?? Thank you so much for posting this I'm immensely grateful to you.
Glad it can help you. Just remember to use a soft material between the finished covers and body panels so when knocked or moved, it does not scratch the paint.
@@easycompositestv Silly question perhaps. Once you put on the cleaner and the black coating when I apply this to the wing. How do I remove the coating once it's cured and set. As you have read my comment I have not touched the car in quite a while as it tore my heart out. It's now time to face my demons and get her back on the road.. As I intend to take the engine out this year and see the damage done to the engine. As there is evidence they were flooring the car from a standing start and chipped the pain badly under the wheels
@@gordonkearney7356 You need to use a release agent as we do in this video to prevent it from bonding and the 'mould' should then lift straight off. To reduce the risk further, you could consider using an automotive vinyl wrap on the original parts to protect them further. However, if these are being made as protective covers, the other option would be to make offset moulds using sheet wax - we have a video which I will link below but making an offset mould would give you 1-2mm clearance that you could then fill with a soft foam or fleece material.
Fascinating film, but I was totally confused when I saw him laying fibreglass sheets on the part until realised that they were only building the mold :-) Well, off to part 2 then...
@15:30 Thanks for the video. Very well done. Are the 4 layers all soaked through in one go or is it a process related 4 times. If it is one co, could it also be done in steps? Thanks again.
Why polish the wax on the part or polish the wax on the barriers? - We polish the wax on the part to improve the release (shiny surfaces release better than less shiny ones) and also because the quality of the finish of the wax will be the quality of the finish on the part. If the wax isn't shiny then the surface of our part won't be shiny.
I'm a specialized technician in the transformation of composite materials and i' m looking for a job , please if you have any information to help me contact me ; oufkir.ahmed40@gmail.com
Very interesting, though I'd personally use vacuum forging to get the shape and would only make one mould, while creating my own structural reinforcement for the other side instead of using the stock one.
Watching these videos makes me keep my workspace clean and wear nice clothes. It's simple to do this fibreglass work. All you need to do is be as nice and patience and well spoken like a 3M technician. Sign me up please. I'm from the GHETTOoooool!!!!!
You're very unlikely to get bubbles in your gelcoat; I can't think I've ever seen this. In this video we spray the gelcoat; if done right that can put it down very smoothly and bubble free. The time you wait before infusing the resin through would depend on the gelcoat you're using (remember, you can use NO gelcoat and it will work just fine). For the GC50 we used in this video the correct delay would be between 3 and 24hrs.
@danthman123 if you're only making one and you need to make the moulds and buy all of the equipment (I.e. starting from scratch) then it will work out more expensive, not cheaper. The materials alone used in making this bonnet are around £450 and remember that's for a 100% carbon bonnet so once you have the equipment and moulds it will work out cheaper.
No because the 'wax' is only there to extend the edges of the mould. Once the component is demoulded it will be trimmed back to the original component line.
Excellent video, kept being drawn away by your sign maker's misspelling of "Highly competAtive pricing." I guess he's trying to make you stand out from your "competation".
This is not a traditional 2 part mould in the sense that the parts are made together. You will see in the later video that each half is used separately so in this case, laying up in this way was purely for convenience and ease.
Last night I some used JB Weld to seal a crack on one of our taillights, so now I know all the ins and outs of epoxy and resin for car applications just like this guy! 😂
The mould is made from fibreglass using our Uni-Mould system. Thanh Tran, it depends how much you want to pay for someone else to make you a bonnet. If the design is not already moulded then you will get a shock at the moulding cost if you ask a business to make it for you. The advantage of DIY making a carbon part is your overheads are much smaller and your time is free.
Some of the basic techniques such as mouldmaking are very similar to what you would use in "traditional" fibreglassing. However, resin infusion is not such a traditional technique. It could be used quite successfully with woven fibreglass as well as carbon fibres.
Looks great. Just curious about fenders and there mounting brackets or flanges on inside. How would one go about that so they could have can havefenders that can mount to the body as intended from factory?
It depends on the mounting arrangement. You could well fabricate angle brackets or similar to bond or laminate onto the inside of the bumper in the right place. Or if the shape is quite complex, you could make an inner mould with mounting holes in the right place. You can even salvage mounting brackets off an original to use on the copy.
loved the video and thanks for posting. good coverage of detail shots too. also, because I sometimes channel an ancestral spelling nazi, I gotta cringe when i see professional marketing that overlooks misspelled words. (on your marketing board behind you, under "buying made easy" the word competitive is misspelled.) makes your marketing team look sophomoric. seems a small complaint in light of the artistry in the molding work, but... devil in the details, i guess. thanks again for posting.
@samedwards884 That's a Plastic Finned Laminating Roller. They've sort of replaced the old metal rollers used for laminating because the reason doesn't stick to them (they're PTFE) and the plastic roller won't scratch the mould if you touch it accidentally.
Hi Rajat, fixing to the chassis in this case would be using the original fixing method. Plates etc can be bonded to the hood using an MMA adhesive or similar. For other hard points/screw threads you can bond or laminate captive metal plates into the component.
Thank you for sharing this knowledge. I do alot of concreting and shuttering, this is mostly the same principles. I fully understand. Thank you very much👍👍👍👍👍👍
@xAssaultTeamx I'm afraid I'm not sure what 'pam' is. If its a composites release agent then there's a good chance it will be fine. Different release agents behave differently so it's worth testing first. We really like to use Easy-Lease Chemical Release Agent but you can use other systems.
This is genius work! I want to make a molding of a hood for my Supra that's sitting in the garage and try this out but if it doesn't work it's okay I already have an aftermarket hood on my Supra right now the one sitting my garage would totally be a test You do some great work man I'm ready to start part two of this video! Also it brings me to the conclusion I see why when people buy these parts why they're so expensive there is a lot and lot of labor that goes into this! Great work keep it up man!
Hi Vincent, thanks for the comment; we're glad this has inspired you. I hope we can work with you to supply the materials and look forward to seeing how you get on. All the best with it.
@@easycompositestv I want to make a mould of my front bumper on my Supra. It's the templates part I'm nervous about I know this is a stupid question is there a certain material you use for templates
Hello, why do you aply coupling coat and not just resin, what are the advantages? If i Want to make the hood from fiberglass and not carbon fiber, should i do it without the coupling Coat?
This is the mould making video, not the actual hood making part - in the case of the mould material we used is a Vinylester Tooling Gelcoat and so to ensure a good bon between the gelcoat and reinforcement and to avoid air pockets, we use the coupling coat (which is also vinylester) with a light weight glass fibre followed by the heavier weight fibreglass which is applied with the Polyester Tooling Gelcoat. If you're making a hood using Polyester gelcoats and resins, you shouldn't need a coupling coat but we'd still recommend a lighter-weight glass for the first layer behind the gelcoat.
LOL, Pam is a product we have in the states. It's basically vegetable oil in a spray can :-D. It's kind of like a release agent. It keeps your chicken from sticking to your pan :-D. Works very well for that. I don't know if it would be the ideal solution for composites though. Thanks so much for the videos, VERY informative.
Could you please add a "shopping list" of all used products to the info text of this video and to the other parts of this how-to? That would be very nice, thank you very much! Best regards from Germany!
I'm still looking for something to put over the bonnet to protect the paint before fiber glassing. It's a good bonnet so I don't want to mark the paint.
A good quality vinyl wrap should work well however, we'd always recommend a quick sample trial of the vinyl first to ensure yourself that there are no issues between it and the gelcoat - as long as it works in the trial, you know you're good to use it to make your mould.
@Fieldpaint haha! It is the same white polo, for the messy stuff (like the trimming at the end) I do the first bit then step out and let someone else finish it!. The rest is all pretty clean.
There were actually a few videos prior to this one as well; only one on the EC page but a few more over on our CarbonMods days. We've come a long way in the 13 or so years we've been producing these tutorials and there have been some wildly changing hair styles!!
Hi, great video. One question I had is about the yellow wax you use. If you fillet the top, then fillet the bottom, won't you have a gap in the final product where the fillet was?
No this it is the point of filliting to fill the gaps that can cause the composites to lock to the moulds how ever fillited area in the final product will be a area trimed off
I have work due in an hour, and I’m watching this. Nice work self!
Calculating how much time this takes, price to be paid for ignoring wife and family. How many shifts of overtime it would take to buy this.......looks like I'll pick up a few shifts of overtime and have this delivered when my wife is gone to visit family.
If you can put it on a separate card. One she can't see so you don't get caught.
Definitely a project better saved for items that aren't commercially available
On that basis you’d never find a lawyer mowing the lawn!
And the price of possible failure.. not worth it.. fiberglass on the other hand, cheap, easy
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Best quality video from 2012 I've ever seen! Great explanation. Clear, detailed. Spot on.
would've never looked when this video was uploaded until you pointed it out. you are so right tho. this video is quality.
The four videos you have on your channel are BY FAR the most intelligent, concise and in-depth I've found on youtube for how to work with carbon fiber. Thank you very much for all the effort you put into this series.
You're welcome. Please just spread the word about our company; we do these videos to share our passion for carbon fibre and composites and to raise our profile around the world. If the 100hrs+ we put into filming and editting this series helps a few people to make some really amazing parts (or even start a business) and gets us one or two links on forums and blogs then it's all worthwhile.
Off course sir I will share your work. I'm trying to get out of poverty with this skill. Long story but I have a trade under me and I will rise again..I will help you also along the way.
I must say, I'm so impressed by the professional process used. I guess that's why you end up with the immaculate finish. Cant wait to see how the final product turns out!
I recently started working in composites after working with metallics the majority of my career and these videos are invaluable. I just wish I had a big enough garage to do this at home. Thanks
Thanks very much, it's great to hear we're helping people.
Hello i know it has been 7 months but i just want to say
I really wish I'd watched this $200 (in materials) ago. :)
Great series - thanks for taking the time to make these videos. I used hot glue to attach flange forms to my plug, but didn't put tape down beforehand. Because, hey, how hard can it be to remove hot glue?
(ProTip: It's not difficult, but super time-consuming. Use the tape.)
Also, filleting wax is freaking impossible to find in the US. I've found that a sulfur-free oil-based modeling clay works very well. It doesn't dry out, PVA will stick to it, and it's easy to remove from the plug once the mold is complete. (I'm not an expert - just making this stuff up as I go along.)
Depends on the engine bay temperatures. A engine with good heat shielding will generally not be a problem as the air temp under the bonnet will not likely reach more than 60C. Some high powered cars may be higher so you need to check.
Yes, the mould can be reused dozens if not hundreds of times. We use Uni-Mould based moulds in our own workshop for some of our production parts and they wear very well. The more you look after them the better they will last. By having a good gelcoat finish you can also at occasional intervals re-polish the mould to take out any scratches or dulling that has occured with regular use.
What if I wanted to make an air vent, for example, like on a Subaru WRX ?
@@crossbreedperformance Do you mean at the same time as moulding the rest of the hood/bonnet or do you mean as a separate piece to bond on after?
@easycompositestv when I initially asked, I meant at the same time as moulding the rest of the hood, but now that you mentioned doing it separately I'm curious about that as well. My question on the second one how would I bond and blend it if I did it separately? Any shared knowledge on both ways would be greatly appreciated.
I would like to do as much of my car as possible , I have a '67 Toronado - nearly 5000lbs ! This video series has really inspired me to Replicate all the front end metal -Hood Fenders in and out - Rad support and the valences , Doors deck lid and I even would like to attempt to do the Body Shell ..
@easycomposites these videos are a godsend. Never thought I'd be able to make my own carbon fiber parts. Thanks to you guys I'm halfway through a new intake manifold. Your in depth videos are easy to follow and saved me a ton of time and potentially expensive mistakes.
You're welcome! We're working on some more pretty exciting professional carbon fibre tutorials so keep an eye on our site and this channel!
Have you ever tried using a ball stylus tool to smooth the clay/wax to a smooth an even fill? Comes out looking like brick mortar and you can match the ball size to the curve needed to prevent locking.
@@affenjunge1615 Yes, in fact we now stock and supply Ball-End Wax Filleting Tools.
Look mate i guess ppl need your whatsapp number. Well i need it anyway
One of the best instructional I've seen across all subject matters, thank you for taking the time to do this!
Thank you Steven, we enjoy making these tutorials a lot.
I love the video, it gives me a new appreciation into why carbon fiber parts are so bloody expensive. I wanted to make parts for my old 82 LeSabre, Buick, just to be different and improve it's economy but had to sell the car. I was slightly regretting it when I read the title to this video then I thought, holy hell you used up like 8 sheets of fiberglass matting, chopmat, and you haven't even made the part yet. I would have rather just stripped the parts off the car, sent them to you and have you do it because to quote another American, "ain't nobody got time fo dat (Kimberly "Sweet Brown" Wilkins)"
It is a time consuming process but as you have seen, the results can be stunning. For many individuals, the "cost" of their own personal time is well worth it, versus the cost of buying or commissioning someone else to make the parts.
I know the feeling, when I would tear down and rebuild the top half of my own engine then to hear it fire up on the first try was quite the experience, dropping off a broke down car then picking up at a shop running again just isn't the same.
9 no NJ moo y bl ki6
The most complete mold making tute I have ever viewed. Thanx-a-million.
Lots of patience required to do this line of work. I could see why CF hoods and other parts are pricy because of the skill set and labor behind it. Good job dude! 👍🏽 keep up the good work you do. 😎
Pricy but doesn't bend in the long run when collision happens.
@@luciusirving5926 Sure. It just cracks and shatters in much the same way as fiberglass or FRP.
Old video but you're doing a fantastic job as a teacher and this has aged very well. The methods are pretty much identical when it comes to aircraft composites. You could probably take this video and teach new aircrafts structures guys how to do the basics of composites with this.
Thanks Stoweby, I reckon there are quite a few composites professions that use this video (and several of our other ones) to introduce apprentices to composites processes! We’ve done an updated infusion video very recently and we’ll probably be doing some more soon as well.
@@easycompositestv Excellent! I'm always interested in seeing how composites technology has evolved over time. I have you guys saved now that you've come across my feed. I wish more people knew how fun it can be to do this with a little practice and patience.
"the most ambitious we are ever likely to take on" - After watching your recent videos! lol not likely... You guys are awesome!
Yes, looking back on our humble beginnings (check out the CarbonMods channel for our very earliest videos), we've come a long way. We're trying to get the balance though so expect some more home builder/DIY videos alongside the more complex ones moving forwards, especially as technology and equipment change and become more accessible :)
@@easycompositestv I genuinely can't wait I've got a couple of ideas I'd love to try.
In this video we're using a 200g 2/2 twill 3k carbon fibre for the visible layers. We use a Lantor Soric SF2 core material on the top skin and for the inner skin we use the 2/2 twill 200g fibre again backed-up with a 650g 12k carbon. When you're laying reinforcement into the mould dry it should be quite easy to keep the weave nicely aligned. It normally gets distorted in a wet-lay process when you're pushing it around with a brush or roller. You don't have that problem with resin infusion.
Worth saving 1,500 dollars to make my own
@PatruDragos I'm not sure I understand the question, if you want to make a fibreglass copy of your bumper then you will need to make a mould first (like we do in this video) and then you can make your fibreglass bumper using traditional fibreglass materials. Lots of curves should not really make much difference.
When watched through our website, we have a shopping list of materials next to the video.
The list is not working. Please, check it out! Thanks! 💪🏻
At 14:45, you start painting gelcoat onto the part. You've talked about the release tape and filet wax but don't mention applying any release coatings to the bonnet's surface. Later on after you've cut off the excess fabric, you separate the two molds which suggests you did apply a release coat to both the topside gelcoat and the underside of the bonnet. Did I miss the step or something else?
+michael greene : Hi Michael, release agent is applied to the original part (and the flanges of the other side of the mould) but we did it slightly earlier in the video at 13:20. This step is indeed very important :)
The human mind at its best, magic, I absolutely love it, wowwwww
Fantastic! Professionally presented, clear and precise. I wish all TH-cam tutorials were as good as this (no naf music or egotistical waffling host). I’ve subscribed and I will be buying the products. 👍👏🏻
well said! I couldn't agree more!
The mould making process (as shown in this video) does produce fumes, you need good ventilation and you could also wear a mask. At normal low levels it's not dangerous. Making the part itself (the resin infusion) is low risk; good ventilation should be adequate. Trimming the part requires (video 3) requires a good mask because you're generating lots of fine dust. Take a look at our new cutting safety video if you want to learn more about masks.
I watch this a couple times, but after you get your head around it, it’s really not as tough as you think you have to watch a couple times and you can understand all the aspects very easily
absolutely; if you break it down into the separate stages/tasks, it isn't so daunting.
Thank you so much for creating this video series. I've always wanted to see a simple straight forward explanation of how this process is done. This has really got me excited to try this myself someday.
Yes, that's what I was talking about. The original hood will certainly come out of the new mould no problem but because I ground off the latch and hinge-pins then the original steel part cannot be fitted back on the car (it was only £50 off eBay anyway!). If you want to keep the original in a condition where it can be put back on your car then you would have to work around any bolts or catches which is perfectly do-able but a little more awkward.
Knocked it out of the park! By far the most detailed, professional, well thought out and executed training video on producing (complex) parts I've seen on TH-cam to date.. Thoroughly inspiring. And this is from a "supplier"? Builders take note.. This is how you do it, IMHO. String a few of these vids together on DVD and the only question I would have is "where do I send the money?" :o) Companies like this deserve our business. I'm in the US but will be looking to Easy C. (in the UK) to "help" me get started. This is not the type of process where you want to skimp on price or talent. GR8T job guys (and gals). Really appreciate it. p.s. Thank God there was no music :o]
I Must agree... i was well educated and informed about the process... hoping that one day i can make some Carbon parts for my 2017 Elantra!
That looks like it takes a lot of patience, but still looks pretty easy watching him do it. We'll see what making the actual part looks like. Well done and using proper clear and concise English. I'm just glad the guy is not from India.
@@guyrodges244 I know what you mean. I don't dislike people from India, the accent, I'm sorry to say, is too thick for me too
OvalWingNut
While watching this video, I was planning my comments, but you took the words right out of my mouth. Well spoken and good luck to your business.
It is a way of explaining how to make corbon fiber cor bonnet molds as a step by step process.
If possible, I would like to ask for more, explaining the components first and the mixture of chemicals mixed before the lecture.
If possible, all brands of chemicals used to do this.
Finally, the summary of this cost
The video covers all the process you mention. If you watch the video series through our Easy Composites website, we have a product list next to each video showing you what was used. You can find the first video here: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/composites-tutorials/make-a-carbon-fibre-bonnet-hood-part1
insane how an 8 (going on 9) year old video series can make me better than newer videos. Videos like this make me happy that i don't have to go to college.
For real.
1st off - these videos are fantastic thank you for providing them! @easycompositestv
I have a specific question regarding compatibility and chemicals used in this video. At minute 6:45 in the video, one of the reasons he gives for using vinylester getcoat resin for his mold is to ensure a clean release of the part (which will be carbon fiber and epoxy). I understand that vinyl ester resin is "compatible" with epoxy.... But, since the gelcoat will both be fully cured, and coated with release agent before the epoxy/cf part is put onto the mold, is 'compatibility' an issue? Wouldn't compatibility just be as issue if one was going to try to chemically bond epoxy to a gelcoat... in which case you would want vinylester gelcoat since it is compatible with the epoxy?
I have always only worked with epoxy in my work so far, so 'compatibility' between resin systems is new to me in most cases. If someone could take a look and chime in with some knowledge, that would be awesome!!!
Thank you.
Hi Marc, thanks for your feedback. Regarding compatibility, it's a great question as it would make sense for a fully cured surface protected with release agent to release without issue. This isn't always the case however, and epoxy tends to stick to the majority of polyester gelcoats, regardless of release agent. It doesn't require a particularly strong adhesion to cause a part to stick to a mould and for some reason epoxy sticks to polyester moulds, there may be some combinations out there which work, but in general we suggest avoiding this combination. Vinylester tool surfaces offer a much more reliable release when working with epoxies and of course epoxy tools are also fine to use.
@@easycompositestv Thank you for the quick response!
So it is a different sort of incompatibility … interesting. My problem with ordering from easycomposites is I am in hawaii. The cost of shipping from that far is much more than the cost of the resin itself unfortunately. I am looking for an alternative place to order or purchase from… if you have a partnering company in hawaii or the mainland USA with the same or equilivent product (vinylester gel coat), I would very much appreciate the recommendation !!
Thanks again for the quick response. And again for the videos. Aloha!
@@216MCollins We don't have a dispatch centre in the US I'm afraid. Part of the issue is the fixed courier fee we are charged for shipping dangerous goods which makes smaller orders relatively more expensive. We are looking into options for reducing the cost to our US customers but at this moment in time the only option is through the main UK site.
That about sums it up! So long as you have the information in this video then every step is perfectly achievable and should work just like it does in the video, there are just a LOT of steps to make a top class carbon fibre bonnet/hood like this but it's an amazing project to undertake and the finished product would be better than almost any carbon fibre bonnet/hood on the market (bulk manufacturers cut LOTS of corners).
how much would it cost to produce a pair of moulds to create a pair of carbon fiber front wings for a car? something I'm interested in doing. or a cnc mould?
@@ilikefishing7858 The mould cost can vary greatly depending upon size, shape and materials/process used to make the moulds from.
@@easycompositestv best suggestion?
@@ilikefishing7858 Depends on size of the wings, moulding materials used eg a traditional composite mould may only be a few hundred pounds, CNC billet tooling could be thousands
In total we used about 20kgs of the Uni-Mould resin, 7kgs of chopped strand mat, 5kgs of the coupling coat and 5kgs of the tooling gelcoat however this is a small part (a FIAT 500) and a larger part would require more resins and glass. Remember that we made an inside mould and an outside mould.
You completely nail it!
I wish I had someone like your company in my area...
Anywhere that builds boats could help you
Anywhere that builds boats could help you
Good laminating procedure mostly. The fact you are using the coupling coat and the fine CSm will help ensure the coupling layer conforms tightly to the gel thus limiting chance of air voids. Also copious use of the roller helps get air out as you laminate.
man is this hard work . awesome instructional video!
I hope your still in business as follows. I have an old car and a garage that was supposed to be looking after my pride and joy. Were leaning on the wings and knees, have cause bruising to the wings as they looked in the engine bay. Plus elbows on the rood as they no doubt had their pictures taken. The garage that subcontracted the work wanted nothing to do with it. I was almost in tears and told by those in the know. There was nothing I could do. With the final words of you brought it to us like that. Strange thing the car had won a concours event only weeks earlier. Plus folks sitting in my car with coveralls on and marked the leather. My word against theirs I was heart broken. Therefore I want to make moulds to put over the car if anyone ever works on her again. This car is my pride and joy and I could not believe that a garage could treat a clients car like this. So your video will save the day?? Thank you so much for posting this I'm immensely grateful to you.
Glad it can help you. Just remember to use a soft material between the finished covers and body panels so when knocked or moved, it does not scratch the paint.
@@easycompositestv Silly question perhaps. Once you put on the cleaner and the black coating when I apply this to the wing. How do I remove the coating once it's cured and set. As you have read my comment I have not touched the car in quite a while as it tore my heart out. It's now time to face my demons and get her back on the road.. As I intend to take the engine out this year and see the damage done to the engine. As there is evidence they were flooring the car from a standing start and chipped the pain badly under the wheels
@@gordonkearney7356 You need to use a release agent as we do in this video to prevent it from bonding and the 'mould' should then lift straight off. To reduce the risk further, you could consider using an automotive vinyl wrap on the original parts to protect them further. However, if these are being made as protective covers, the other option would be to make offset moulds using sheet wax - we have a video which I will link below but making an offset mould would give you 1-2mm clearance that you could then fill with a soft foam or fleece material.
th-cam.com/video/zeE1FdcQ3c8/w-d-xo.html
please do some difficult parts like front bumper.. thanks
Should you not have put the fillet wax in before the release agent?
No, release agent first, otherwise the wax will contaminate the cloth that you’re using for the release agent. Resin won’t stick to the wax.
How much would all the parts used here (excluding the steel hood) cost?
i guess a lot.... I am going to make a glass fiber bonnet, but in a much more simple way.... i hope it is going to work....
Daniel Solce use ur own steel hood
+altheeb - 100% Agreed! Time, $$$, Labor = NOT WORTH IT !!! LOL
A roll of CF sheet can cost ovee 16k dollars
you can get 3k carbon twill weave for $16 a linear yard. you could make the hood with about 6 yards. not that bad...
INFUSION!...Don't worry, that's not the only thing I took from the video. I found it extremely informative and helpful!
Fascinating film, but I was totally confused when I saw him laying fibreglass sheets on the part until realised that they were only building the mold :-) Well, off to part 2 then...
i use a die grinder with cut off wheel to trim. and i use sanding bits or file bits to clean up the trim work.
There's a video on the easy composites channel showing the best way to cut composites
Now I know where to buy my materials for boat building. ...
perfect
Great video and amazing mold work, u guys are 2nd to none. You blow Seibon out of the water with your attention to detail
19:30 When you hear that sound in a staff meeting don't move.
Hilarious 😆
Came here for this
lmao
I think this video is awesome and has helped further my carbon fiber understanding.
You won't have to wait long, they're all uploading to TH-cam right now... Part 2 is already online!
@15:30 Thanks for the video. Very well done. Are the 4 layers all soaked through in one go or is it a process related 4 times. If it is one co, could it also be done in steps? Thanks again.
Unimould tooling resin needs to be done in one hit for all 4 layers so it creates enough heat to fully cure.
why polish the wax if the purpose is just a release barrier?
Why polish the wax on the part or polish the wax on the barriers? - We polish the wax on the part to improve the release (shiny surfaces release better than less shiny ones) and also because the quality of the finish of the wax will be the quality of the finish on the part. If the wax isn't shiny then the surface of our part won't be shiny.
Easy Composites Ltd
I'm a specialized technician in the transformation of composite materials and i' m looking for a job , please if you have any information to help me contact me ; oufkir.ahmed40@gmail.com
And if you don’t remove all the wax it can stick to it
James B no, it'll just leave streaks or haze in the mold. The resin can't stick to the wax.
This is the best instructional video on TH-cam, really really good!!!
Very interesting, though I'd personally use vacuum forging to get the shape and would only make one mould, while creating my own structural reinforcement for the other side instead of using the stock one.
DjKinetec great if you're using it once but this is deffo the way to go to ensure the structure of both your bonnets and the mould for further use.
Watching these videos makes me keep my workspace clean and wear nice clothes. It's simple to do this fibreglass work. All you need to do is be as nice and patience and well spoken like a 3M technician. Sign me up please. I'm from the GHETTOoooool!!!!!
Haha, well, yes, thanks, We do a lot of cleaning up in the background whenever the camera isn't rolling!
@@easycompositestv beleive that anyday. Keep up the good work
i like the English accent,might help with my IELTS exam :) but i agree great workmanship !thumbs up
Harry pother
carbon is future, strong and lightweight, thanks easycomposites team for sharing their knowledge!
You know what kind of material for making fiver plastic
You're very unlikely to get bubbles in your gelcoat; I can't think I've ever seen this. In this video we spray the gelcoat; if done right that can put it down very smoothly and bubble free. The time you wait before infusing the resin through would depend on the gelcoat you're using (remember, you can use NO gelcoat and it will work just fine). For the GC50 we used in this video the correct delay would be between 3 and 24hrs.
@danthman123 if you're only making one and you need to make the moulds and buy all of the equipment (I.e. starting from scratch) then it will work out more expensive, not cheaper. The materials alone used in making this bonnet are around £450 and remember that's for a 100% carbon bonnet so once you have the equipment and moulds it will work out cheaper.
Someone tag B is for build in this video
14:31 wouldn't the wax leave an unwanted large void between upper and lower mold after it's been removed?
No because the 'wax' is only there to extend the edges of the mould. Once the component is demoulded it will be trimmed back to the original component line.
Excellent video, kept being drawn away by your sign maker's misspelling of "Highly competAtive pricing." I guess he's trying to make you stand out from your "competation".
I alway added small clay wedges between the mold half edges to help separating
and some keys to get good Registration between the halfes
This is not a traditional 2 part mould in the sense that the parts are made together. You will see in the later video that each half is used separately so in this case, laying up in this way was purely for convenience and ease.
Do u guys ship to the US?
Last night I some used JB Weld to seal a crack on one of our taillights, so now I know all the ins and outs of epoxy and resin for car applications just like this guy! 😂
Who is here because it was recommended after watching b is for build 😜
Just watched that video and the very first comment recommended these guys. And now I'm here like you.
@@camarocharger8180 but B is for build is doing it wrong. I told him about this place.
Ayeee
Here 😂😂😂
Chris Finkbohner I realized I’m 17 hours late are recommending this link 😂
The mould is made from fibreglass using our Uni-Mould system.
Thanh Tran, it depends how much you want to pay for someone else to make you a bonnet. If the design is not already moulded then you will get a shock at the moulding cost if you ask a business to make it for you. The advantage of DIY making a carbon part is your overheads are much smaller and your time is free.
Very informative and well presented.
That pop when he released the mould was so satisfying
Isn't this more like fiber glass though?
Some of the basic techniques such as mouldmaking are very similar to what you would use in "traditional" fibreglassing. However, resin infusion is not such a traditional technique. It could be used quite successfully with woven fibreglass as well as carbon fibres.
Yes fiber glass moles to build a carbon part in to get the shape. Epoxy resins are so easy to use with glass and carbon.
Looks great. Just curious about fenders and there mounting brackets or flanges on inside. How would one go about that so they could have can havefenders that can mount to the body as intended from factory?
It depends on the mounting arrangement. You could well fabricate angle brackets or similar to bond or laminate onto the inside of the bumper in the right place. Or if the shape is quite complex, you could make an inner mould with mounting holes in the right place. You can even salvage mounting brackets off an original to use on the copy.
loved the video and thanks for posting. good coverage of detail shots too. also, because I sometimes channel an ancestral spelling nazi, I gotta cringe when i see professional marketing that overlooks misspelled words. (on your marketing board behind you, under "buying made easy" the word competitive is misspelled.) makes your marketing team look sophomoric. seems a small complaint in light of the artistry in the molding work, but... devil in the details, i guess. thanks again for posting.
Man i like how this guy work. Hes generous with everything.. its never too much
Who makes cf fenders for a b6 audi
where are u from ?
Obviously these guys!! Haha
A fucking badass. That's who.
"Who makes a Lamborghini out of a tractor? ... oh wait."
Me
@samedwards884 That's a Plastic Finned Laminating Roller. They've sort of replaced the old metal rollers used for laminating because the reason doesn't stick to them (they're PTFE) and the plastic roller won't scratch the mould if you touch it accidentally.
@ 19:30
***** lol
i forgot about this
lol
its deserve the five star with out any comment
really big thank
i really like it-- going to watch parts 2
Only job were the sound of something cracking is good.
What about producing crack
Gracias por la demostración de cómo hacer un molde, incluyendo la corrección de errores. Didáctico!
Looks like a new shape fiat 500 bonnet, probably wrong though
***** Yes you are correct!
+Easy Composites Ltd what are you poring in with the gelcot and the other 2
Absolutely nailed it, presentation and editing were flawless, as was the technique!
19:31 lovely
19:31
Awesome bro tell me one thing how to fix it with chesis and also how to make the points for screws tight
Hi Rajat, fixing to the chassis in this case would be using the original fixing method. Plates etc can be bonded to the hood using an MMA adhesive or similar. For other hard points/screw threads you can bond or laminate captive metal plates into the component.
@@easycompositestv thanks
Thank you for sharing this knowledge. I do alot of concreting and shuttering, this is mostly the same principles. I fully understand. Thank you very much👍👍👍👍👍👍
@xAssaultTeamx I'm afraid I'm not sure what 'pam' is. If its a composites release agent then there's a good chance it will be fine. Different release agents behave differently so it's worth testing first. We really like to use Easy-Lease Chemical Release Agent but you can use other systems.
This is genius work! I want to make a molding of a hood for my Supra that's sitting in the garage and try this out but if it doesn't work it's okay I already have an aftermarket hood on my Supra right now the one sitting my garage would totally be a test You do some great work man I'm ready to start part two of this video! Also it brings me to the conclusion I see why when people buy these parts why they're so expensive there is a lot and lot of labor that goes into this! Great work keep it up man!
Hi Vincent, thanks for the comment; we're glad this has inspired you. I hope we can work with you to supply the materials and look forward to seeing how you get on. All the best with it.
@@easycompositestv I want to make a mould of my front bumper on my Supra. It's the templates part I'm nervous about I know this is a stupid question is there a certain material you use for templates
Hello,
why do you aply coupling coat and not just resin, what are the advantages? If i Want to make the hood from fiberglass and not carbon fiber, should i do it without the coupling Coat?
This is the mould making video, not the actual hood making part - in the case of the mould material we used is a Vinylester Tooling Gelcoat and so to ensure a good bon between the gelcoat and reinforcement and to avoid air pockets, we use the coupling coat (which is also vinylester) with a light weight glass fibre followed by the heavier weight fibreglass which is applied with the Polyester Tooling Gelcoat. If you're making a hood using Polyester gelcoats and resins, you shouldn't need a coupling coat but we'd still recommend a lighter-weight glass for the first layer behind the gelcoat.
LOL, Pam is a product we have in the states. It's basically vegetable oil in a spray can :-D. It's kind of like a release agent. It keeps your chicken from sticking to your pan :-D. Works very well for that. I don't know if it would be the ideal solution for composites though.
Thanks so much for the videos, VERY informative.
fantastic thank you! please can you advise the weight difference? cheers and happy new year! :)
the best HowTo video Ive ever seen
Could you please add a "shopping list" of all used products to the info text of this video and to the other parts of this how-to?
That would be very nice, thank you very much!
Best regards from Germany!
HI, we have a shopping list of items used when you view these videos through our website.
Easy Composites Ltd cant find it :/
I'm still looking for something to put over the bonnet to protect the paint before fiber glassing. It's a good bonnet so I don't want to mark the paint.
A good quality vinyl wrap should work well however, we'd always recommend a quick sample trial of the vinyl first to ensure yourself that there are no issues between it and the gelcoat - as long as it works in the trial, you know you're good to use it to make your mould.
Nice , my old work...i work long time ago with production yachts , spoilers for cars , sand box for winter time..🇵🇱🏴👍
Very instructional and a good presenter, thanks.
@Fieldpaint haha! It is the same white polo, for the messy stuff (like the trimming at the end) I do the first bit then step out and let someone else finish it!. The rest is all pretty clean.
I think this was the first EC video I ever watched, and now it's 10 years old!
There were actually a few videos prior to this one as well; only one on the EC page but a few more over on our CarbonMods days. We've come a long way in the 13 or so years we've been producing these tutorials and there have been some wildly changing hair styles!!
This gives me the idea to make so many different parts. Great job on Video #1. Now onto Video #2
Hi, great video. One question I had is about the yellow wax you use. If you fillet the top, then fillet the bottom, won't you have a gap in the final product where the fillet was?
No this it is the point of filliting to fill the gaps that can cause the composites to lock to the moulds how ever fillited area in the final product will be a area trimed off
Which is why we use a specialist catalyst dispenser bottle which has accurate measurements on the pouring spout.