Hi Doug, when we make a body panel mould we start by laying up our coupling coat first. The coupling coat is a single layer of 100 gram CSM which can be laid into tight corners as you had at the top of your panel. This is then allowed to cure and we then apply the structural layers onto the coupling coat which can support the weight of the additional fabric. Ian in G.B ( Total Carbon Ltd )
see i like when sombody comments and then the person takes advise and doesnt be like i know what im doing. see we need alot more of ppl like this. we all learn. im taking advise from both of yous.💪🏼👌
Good job! I like making the mold and fenders! I say do each in 1 step, keep the foam in place and fiber both sides! I say reduce the steps and use a respirator. You really want to minimize exposure to fumes, stuff is really dangerous! Good luck! :)
What I really appreciate is how you are able to stay at it. I get lost on the way to the shop about 80% of the time. As always you do amazing work. Thank you for sharing!
GREAT! I've been wanting to try something like that but never had the knowledge to know how. I've been watching Youtubs by a boat builder down in New Orleans. You have added a second chapter to my knowledge. Thank you for taking the time.
My mate makes stuff for movies like darth vaders suit in the second trilogy. He sprays the PVA through a HVLP gun on very low flow rate, wide fan and decent psi. He dusts on heaps (10) of light fast coats and dries them in between quickly with a hairdryer..slowly gets to a really smooth, strong blue tint.. you can add water to it if its too thick, just make sure its light mist as it will run too. If you are patient its awesome. I have always had streaks when i paint or wipe PVA on as it separates on the wax!
When you were talking about the glass not wanting to fold into that tight radius, you can make a putty mix out of resin and silica powder put a little bit into that radius and then glass over the top of it
Thank you for making your videos interesting. Hubby loves TH-cam and so far this winter, I'm learning how to TIG weld, use a tubing bender, and how to make fiberglass body molds. I didn't even know I wanted to.
For tight corners like the roof drip edge, fill the tight corner with a fillet of flox or micro and put your fiberglass mat over that. Micro or flox is just pure resin mixed with either glass spheres or cotton flox respectively. Mix to a peanut butter consistency and finger tool into the corner like you did with the caulking. You can apply your wet mat on top of that while the fillet is still wet. Works great. Generally cloth or mat will not work in really tight radii or 90 degree corners unless you absolutely flood it with resin. In that case the corner will basically be resin rather than structure and will give inconsistent results. The resultant micro/flox corner is a little less robust than fiberglass cloth/mat, but it will duplicate the shape perfectly in the mold and not require much if any rework. I love this project and you are clearly a master fabricator. I am okay at composites, but I am in awe of your metal fab skills. Learning a lot from your channel. Thanks for putting in the effort to share on TH-cam.
A thick paste of resin and fumed silica or Qcell is the choice of filler here in theantipodes but at a pinch I have even used sawdust and it did the job between the gelcoat and tie layer.
@@DougBugBuilder Most welcome! From my experience thickened resin mixtures from weakest to strongest are; micro, Qcell (pretty similar to micro), Cabosil, then Flox. From a smoothness or finish perspective, micro mix is the smoothest, flox is the roughest. For the splash mold application the Cabosil is a good choice. Look at West Systems 406 filler product. It is usually in stock at West Marine if you have one of those near you, or Amazon will bring it to your door. When laying up the final parts in the splash mold the micro might produce a little nicer finish (smoother) but the West System 406 mixture should also be good.
Allways spray PVA it's the finish transfer so what ever is on the plate layer is in your gel coat. You can also use some separated woven roven to make your fill in peices for your crimped areas
To make the mold stronger when you get done putting the fiberglass on the panel you can use the cardboard roll that comes with gift wrapping paper ( the cardboard that it’s wrapped on) put it on the fiberglass and put resin and some fiberglass CSM over it and it will make the mold stay stiff and straight. It keeps the mold in good shape for reuse and it’s easy to do . It keeps it very strong.
Mauler was my first Baja build. After Wratchet is up and running I want to put some attention to Mauler and make him a great trail Baja. He won't be as radical as Wratchet. But great for local trails and running around town.
I use the same, and actually I usually use twice that amount. 16 oz with 6cc catalyst is what I usually do. That ratio works well in regular temperatures as long as you are not in direct sunlight.
Hello, I use PVA, I used to use wax, but I've found PVA to work much better. A good coat of PVA and you can be guaranteed the parts will separate. Here is a link to what I used. amzn.to/3PAq45n
What is the caulking you used around the window and under the drip mold, please. Great idea whatever. I have use plasticine and while it does a great job is a PITA to apply and remove after.
New subscriber 😀 Thank You Doug, looks perfect ! Could you please make a fiberglass hood video. I cant figure out how to line up the bolt holes and latch
In the UK a company built some Fiber glass beetles... I had one for a time and sold the rolling shell for like $2k I was told the moulds are still about!
I have two old ATVS that have plastic fenders. They were in mint condition when I bought them about 18 years ago, but a teenage friend of a friend crashed one of them, which cracked the plastic fenders and I would like to find a fiberglass shop or experienced fabricator that can make molds from my undamaged fenders and then make two sets of fiberglass replacement fenders for both ATVS, which will be stronger and better looking than the original plastic parts. Any idea where I can find someone who would do such work? They can keep the molds and sell replacement fenders to other owners of the same model ATVS as mine, after they make my two sets.
I know this is an older video of yours but i'm working my way through the series because i just bought my dream car and it has a body kit from the early 90s that is in not the best shape and was going to try and make it. Do you have a full parts list for what you're using? I hear you say gel coat and PV(B?)A but see a lot of options. You might not see this comment but great videos and thank you for all the instruction just in the videos!
Sounds like a fun project! If you look in the description I have links to most of what I was using in this video. If there is something you don't see let me know and I'll get you a link.
Hey man Kevin here from Australia. Great video I've always found fiberglass interesting so thankyou for sharing your experiences on this. Q. Once your all geared up and ready to apply the resin to your mating how long do you have to work with it. ✌ Peace.
Hello Kevin, On a regular summer day you'll have about 20 minutes to work. That's why I don't mix more than 16 oz. The colder it is outside the longer it takes. As usual good to hear from you, and thanks for the comment! ✌
Instead of the caulking you used to give a fillet in the sharp corners you can use modeling clay. Also you can also make sharp corners by laying in a strand of roving, or texturized roving into the sharp corners to get a more accurate mold. You may need several strands to get a fillet that the matting will conform to depending on the weight of roving your using. It would be better to have a glossy surface on your master, then you can skip the pva and get a better finish on your mold. Another thing for a better mold finish is to have your matting have torn edges, they can at times pattern your surface. Rule of thumb is the better you make your master, the better your mold, the better your parts. All of this said, for your purposes, your doing a great job, those molds won't be expected to produce a few thousand parts after all.
I tried clay once but I was obviously using the wrong kind. Because it was difficult to work with, like horrible. The roving I have never tried, I'll get some and give it a go. Thanks for the suggestion and comment. 👍
Everything will transfer to the new piece, try spraying the PVA out of a gun next time, it will leave a bit of a pattern but nothing like the marks left when you wipe it on with a rag. It will be even out of a spray gun and you won't have to sand out any inconsistencies like you do when you wipe it on with a rag
@@DougBugBuilder im beginners in fiberglassing, just learning bullet fiberglass speaker horn, and i have old car also need for my DIY fiberglassing hehe, thanks for sharing yout idea.
to solve a lot of little problems for you....... try sealing off your bondo with even a cheap coat of spray paint over the area that will prevent a lot of little things that you have to clean up later, Keep on working it ! Looks good
for mold making and those sharp edges it is always easier to put something in than try to bend the glass so putting a natural fiber string ot short choped glass fibers mixed with resin between gelcoat and the glass could work, or you just didn't put enough wax/pva in this area , or made gelcat too thick with no glass supporteither way i hope the finished product will look great as the rest of it, because with fiberglass failure is only a longer next step , not a total waste of time, unless you forget to add catalyst ... but even them you can salvage it with uv lamp and some hydrogen peroxide in a spray bottle
I like what you said here "with fiberglass failure is only a longer next step , not a total waste of time". I might put that on the wall as inspiration. Thanks for the tips, and the comment. 👍
@@DougBugBuilder i been building a standing pool out of it and some osb and i learn the hard way that most of failured of the material like fiberglass can be patched because it is a compositemade out of glue and filler. if you don't mix epoxy with polyester it usually work as intended for tips and trix you can always visit andy boat work youtube channel "boatworks today"
i'm looking to get into fiberglassing. just curious of what the gel coat does for the mold. is it another releasing agent? or is it just to get the white color.
The gelcoat offers a barrier between the exterior and the fiberglass fibers. Without the gelcoat you would likely see some of the fibers. And if you sanded it the fibers would immediately be exposed. Plus gelcoat is easier to sand/buff, and it looks nice and can be colored.
@@DougBugBuilder And will all of that gel coat come off of the original piece when making my mold? like i said i really want to replicate this body kit, but i would like to keep to original kit in great condition.
Yes, it was polyester resin. That's what I used on the strand mats. First I put down a coat of polyester gel coat. Then polyester resin and mat over that.
Loving the build; this is inspiring my own baja ('62). Quick question; how are you managing the ECU? Wasn't sure if you were planning on doing any wiring videos
I know I can run this J series with AEM. But I really would like to do it with a Holley setup. So I'm mulling that around in my head. Whatever I do I'll have detailed videos on the setup, including the wiring harness.
@RPMX Info Dot Com BINKY! A link ECU would be legit, however I was looking at the fuel tech ft600. The reduced hassle and cost of additional components make the price justifiable, even if it's still a bit steep. m.th-cam.com/video/cj-IUr-Boxs/w-d-xo.html
A pro tip when fiberglassing...and need more stiffness... You can get some silcon and create webbed grit on you dry fiberglass let it dry next day fiberglas over only the ribed silicone areas You could use strofoam also sand the shap or embosed feature or pattern etc...besure to sure only expoy resin as polyester resin will eat the foam part You could use hot glue, or hot glue with 1/4 dowels or foam bacer rod..of the size you need etc... This tips makes light weigh reforced ribs easy. And you can fiberglass over some of them asap.
Technically no, the PVA washes off with water. So if carefully done this would not hurt a vehicles finish. But if you get any resin on the vehicle surface that does not have PVA on it you'll have a problem.
on the edges you just have to give it a radius so it doesnt do that...ive never done it myself but ive been watching a lot of videos..... just do what you said with bondo and make the edges smoother instead of a hard 90
Thanks, I've experimented with no PVA before with good results. But I gotta say on this I was really afraid the Bondo was going to stick to the gel coat. But I'd like to ween off of it and skip that step all together.
If that was silicone you put inside that joint that’s why you were having issues with the glass sticking. Stay away from silicone and use some wax or modelling clay.
You shouldn’t have to sand your mold, unless you have flaws. My opinion you should’ve applied polyester primer on your master to make perfect, only work hard one time instead working hard twice. Because you should know after making the mold all the hard work isn’t done🤦🏽♂️
@@DougBugBuilder I've been doing fiberglass for 30 years that's all I've ever done professionally. I'm a pattern and mold maker and a production plant manager. You have any questions don't hesitate to ask me I'd love to help out.
Did ypu really just say you shouldve done that side in bondo so you wouldmt have to redo it then turn around and bondo over paint and wax the filler lol
Yes you did. Although this body is in terrible shape and will eventually need to be stripped, fixed and painted, it still feels like a waste of time to just throw drywall mud on there for fiberglass shaping.
High speed is to fast during the application of mat. Cant quite see what your doing. Add 30 sec to the video and slow it a little so we can follow you better. 😀
Hi Doug, when we make a body panel mould we start by laying up our coupling coat first. The coupling coat is a single layer of 100 gram CSM which can be laid into tight corners as you had at the top of your panel. This is then allowed to cure and we then apply the structural layers onto the coupling coat which can support the weight of the additional fabric. Ian in G.B ( Total Carbon Ltd )
So my first layer should be super thin and allowed to cure. Then back it with heavier coats.
Brilliant advice! Thanks, I'll do that moving forward.
see i like when sombody comments and then the person takes advise and doesnt be like i know what im doing. see we need alot more of ppl like this. we all learn. im taking advise from both of yous.💪🏼👌
Good job! I like making the mold and fenders! I say do each in 1 step, keep the foam in place and fiber both sides! I say reduce the steps and use a respirator. You really want to minimize exposure to fumes, stuff is really dangerous! Good luck! :)
Wicked awesome Doug. I can't tell you how much I appreciate you doing this and then sharing with everyone. !!!! Thanks.
Glad you like it, thanks for the comment. 👍
What I really appreciate is how you are able to stay at it. I get lost on the way to the shop about 80% of the time. As always you do amazing work. Thank you for sharing!
It can also be a curse sometimes when I hyper focus on it. But I've kept my sanity this far.
Appreciate the comment. 👍
GREAT! I've been wanting to try something like that but never had the knowledge to know how. I've been watching Youtubs by a boat builder down in New Orleans. You have added a second chapter to my knowledge. Thank you for taking the time.
My mate makes stuff for movies like darth vaders suit in the second trilogy. He sprays the PVA through a HVLP gun on very low flow rate, wide fan and decent psi. He dusts on heaps (10) of light fast coats and dries them in between quickly with a hairdryer..slowly gets to a really smooth, strong blue tint.. you can add water to it if its too thick, just make sure its light mist as it will run too. If you are patient its awesome. I have always had streaks when i paint or wipe PVA on as it separates on the wax!
Good info buddy, thanks. 👍
When you were talking about the glass not wanting to fold into that tight radius, you can make a putty mix out of resin and silica powder put a little bit into that radius and then glass over the top of it
Thank you for making your videos interesting. Hubby loves TH-cam and so far this winter, I'm learning how to TIG weld, use a tubing bender, and how to make fiberglass body molds. I didn't even know I wanted to.
Once the weather warms you're really going to be busy. 😉
Thanks for the comment.
For tight corners like the roof drip edge, fill the tight corner with a fillet of flox or micro and put your fiberglass mat over that. Micro or flox is just pure resin mixed with either glass spheres or cotton flox respectively. Mix to a peanut butter consistency and finger tool into the corner like you did with the caulking. You can apply your wet mat on top of that while the fillet is still wet. Works great. Generally cloth or mat will not work in really tight radii or 90 degree corners unless you absolutely flood it with resin. In that case the corner will basically be resin rather than structure and will give inconsistent results. The resultant micro/flox corner is a little less robust than fiberglass cloth/mat, but it will duplicate the shape perfectly in the mold and not require much if any rework. I love this project and you are clearly a master fabricator. I am okay at composites, but I am in awe of your metal fab skills. Learning a lot from your channel. Thanks for putting in the effort to share on TH-cam.
A thick paste of resin and fumed silica or Qcell is the choice of filler here in theantipodes but at a pinch I have even used sawdust and it did the job between the gelcoat and tie layer.
That is extremely helpful! Thanks. I'll experiment with those techniques as I go forward.
And appreciate the kind words. 👍
Sawdust? 😜
I've seen the Qcell at the supply house. Thanks for the tips.
@@DougBugBuilder Most welcome! From my experience thickened resin mixtures from weakest to strongest are; micro, Qcell (pretty similar to micro), Cabosil, then Flox. From a smoothness or finish perspective, micro mix is the smoothest, flox is the roughest. For the splash mold application the Cabosil is a good choice. Look at West Systems 406 filler product. It is usually in stock at West Marine if you have one of those near you, or Amazon will bring it to your door. When laying up the final parts in the splash mold the micro might produce a little nicer finish (smoother) but the West System 406 mixture should also be good.
Good job. The panels will look great.
Thanks!
Allways spray PVA it's the finish transfer so what ever is on the plate layer is in your gel coat. You can also use some separated woven roven to make your fill in peices for your crimped areas
You did this so different from others and made it feel like I was there. Enjoyed and subscribed
Glad you enjoyed it!
Welcome to the team.
10:45 that catalyst setup is fucking awesome dude!
Yeah, that thing saves a lot of time.
To make the mold stronger when you get done putting the fiberglass on the panel you can use the cardboard roll that comes with gift wrapping paper ( the cardboard that it’s wrapped on) put it on the fiberglass and put resin and some fiberglass CSM over it and it will make the mold stay stiff and straight. It keeps the mold in good shape for reuse and it’s easy to do . It keeps it very strong.
That's a great tip. I'll play with that moving forward.
Thanks for sharing. 👍
I enjoy your videos a lot. Very nice work!
Thanks buddy!
CSM is easier to form if you rip it, vs. cutting it. What are you plans for the car you're taking the mold from?
Mauler was my first Baja build. After Wratchet is up and running I want to put some attention to Mauler and make him a great trail Baja. He won't be as radical as Wratchet. But great for local trails and running around town.
Great looking mold! If it comes out as nice as the other side, it will look fantastic.
Hopefully it will. I really had to work the other panel because the mold I made was not as nice as this one.
Doug! Thank you, great video. I'm looking to make a front bumper for my truck and this gives me everything I need to know!
Thanks, good luck with the bumper.
I enjoy your videos ,we are very talented . Thanks for sharing
Thanks!
you are doing fine. it's that fiberglass doesn't like sharp corners to wrap around.
Looks great Doug. Nice work on the mold 👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Nice work! I see your formula for the gel coat is 8 ounce gel coat 3cc catalyst. For your next step
What is your formula for the fiber glass resin?
I use the same, and actually I usually use twice that amount. 16 oz with 6cc catalyst is what I usually do. That ratio works well in regular temperatures as long as you are not in direct sunlight.
Thank you so much for the quick response. Down here the temps are around 100. So I may have to do this kind of work inside me house.
Hello mate what you have used before adding gelcoat to remove the fibreglass
Hello, I use PVA, I used to use wax, but I've found PVA to work much better. A good coat of PVA and you can be guaranteed the parts will separate.
Here is a link to what I used. amzn.to/3PAq45n
Good work. Awesome t-shirt.
Thanks!
I actually got that shirt by sending in box tops, then they sent me the shirt. 😁
What is the caulking you used around the window and under the drip mold, please. Great idea whatever. I have use plasticine and while it does a great job is a PITA to apply and remove after.
It's just white silicone caulking from the hardware store. The gelcoat and resin won't stick to the silicone. So it works great on fiberglass.
New subscriber 😀 Thank You Doug, looks perfect ! Could you please make a fiberglass hood video. I cant figure out how to line up the bolt holes and latch
Welcome to the team!
I'll be making the one piece front end for this Baja soon. Hopefully that will help.
Do you let the gel coat dry? Or apply the fiber glass with wet gel coat?
It's best to let it dry almost all the way. The gelcoat should be just a little bit tacky when you lay the fiberglass over it.
In the UK a company built some Fiber glass beetles... I had one for a time and sold the rolling shell for like $2k I was told the moulds are still about!
I figure there has to be other molds out there. Lots of garage builders out there that we don't really know about.
@@DougBugBuilder It was a company called wizard of rods Only thing was they were heavy and bugs were cheap to get hold of at the time
I have two old ATVS that have plastic fenders. They were in mint condition when I bought them about 18 years ago, but a teenage friend of a friend crashed one of them, which cracked the plastic fenders and I would like to find a fiberglass shop or experienced fabricator that can make molds from my undamaged fenders and then make two sets of fiberglass replacement fenders for both ATVS, which will be stronger and better looking than the original plastic parts. Any idea where I can find someone who would do such work? They can keep the molds and sell replacement fenders to other owners of the same model ATVS as mine, after they make my two sets.
I recommend you try asking boat repair shops. They are usually skilled in fiberglass work, and might work with you on something like that.
I know this is an older video of yours but i'm working my way through the series because i just bought my dream car and it has a body kit from the early 90s that is in not the best shape and was going to try and make it. Do you have a full parts list for what you're using? I hear you say gel coat and PV(B?)A but see a lot of options. You might not see this comment but great videos and thank you for all the instruction just in the videos!
Sounds like a fun project! If you look in the description I have links to most of what I was using in this video. If there is something you don't see let me know and I'll get you a link.
Hey man Kevin here from Australia.
Great video I've always found fiberglass interesting so thankyou for sharing your experiences on this.
Q. Once your all geared up and ready to apply the resin to your mating how long do you have to work with it.
✌ Peace.
Hello Kevin,
On a regular summer day you'll have about 20 minutes to work. That's why I don't mix more than 16 oz.
The colder it is outside the longer it takes.
As usual good to hear from you, and thanks for the comment! ✌
Would this same method work for chrome bumpers on another classic car?
Assuming you're talking about making a mold from a chrome bumper, yes I think this procedure would work for that.
Instead of the caulking you used to give a fillet in the sharp corners you can use modeling clay. Also you can also make sharp corners by laying in a strand of roving, or texturized roving into the sharp corners to get a more accurate mold. You may need several strands to get a fillet that the matting will conform to depending on the weight of roving your using.
It would be better to have a glossy surface on your master, then you can skip the pva and get a better finish on your mold. Another thing for a better mold finish is to have your matting have torn edges, they can at times pattern your surface.
Rule of thumb is the better you make your master, the better your mold, the better your parts.
All of this said, for your purposes, your doing a great job, those molds won't be expected to produce a few thousand parts after all.
I tried clay once but I was obviously using the wrong kind. Because it was difficult to work with, like horrible.
The roving I have never tried, I'll get some and give it a go.
Thanks for the suggestion and comment. 👍
@@DougBugBuilder sulfer free modeling clay too, apparently not all are. We stocked the stuff by the pound.
Awesome. I really want to try this someday.
Once you do You'll realize you can fiberglass almost any body panel that was originally made on a press. 👍
Thanx for the video brother do you do orders or take orders interested in getting some molds made
Sorry, barely have time to build my own stuff.
Everything will transfer to the new piece, try spraying the PVA out of a gun next time, it will leave a bit of a pattern but nothing like the marks left when you wipe it on with a rag. It will be even out of a spray gun and you won't have to sand out any inconsistencies like you do when you wipe it on with a rag
I've used it out of a gun before, not sure why I stopped doing it that way. The results were smoother. I'll go back to it.
Very nice tecknik Sir of fiberglassing thank you, new subscriber here have a nice day.
Welcome to the team, thanks for the comment. 👍
@@DougBugBuilder im beginners in fiberglassing, just learning bullet fiberglass speaker horn, and i have old car also need for my DIY fiberglassing hehe, thanks for sharing yout idea.
to solve a lot of little problems for you....... try sealing off your bondo with even a cheap coat of spray paint over the area that will prevent a lot of little things that you have to clean up later, Keep on working it ! Looks good
Good idea, thanks for the tip.
How would I make the baja wide fenders like how would I get the bulge out profile
Fantastic job!
Thanks!
Sir whats the green thing you use after the gel coat
I'm not sure I follow your question, can you give me the time stamp in the video with what you are talking about?
Good information......Great .......from pakistan
Thanks buddy!
for mold making and those sharp edges it is always easier to put something in than try to bend the glass so putting a natural fiber string ot short choped glass fibers mixed with resin between gelcoat and the glass could work, or you just didn't put enough wax/pva in this area , or made gelcat too thick with no glass supporteither way i hope the finished product will look great as the rest of it, because with fiberglass failure is only a longer next step , not a total waste of time, unless you forget to add catalyst ... but even them you can salvage it with uv lamp and some hydrogen peroxide in a spray bottle
I like what you said here "with fiberglass failure is only a longer next step , not a total waste of time". I might put that on the wall as inspiration.
Thanks for the tips, and the comment. 👍
@@DougBugBuilder i been building a standing pool out of it and some osb and i learn the hard way that most of failured of the material like fiberglass can be patched because it is a compositemade out of glue and filler. if you don't mix epoxy with polyester it usually work as intended
for tips and trix you can always visit andy boat work youtube channel "boatworks today"
i'm looking to get into fiberglassing. just curious of what the gel coat does for the mold. is it another releasing agent? or is it just to get the white color.
i'm looking to make a replica of a body kit so i can make it custom to my likings, but i don't want to ruin the original body kit
The gelcoat offers a barrier between the exterior and the fiberglass fibers. Without the gelcoat you would likely see some of the fibers. And if you sanded it the fibers would immediately be exposed. Plus gelcoat is easier to sand/buff, and it looks nice and can be colored.
Perfect application of fiberglass right there.
@@DougBugBuilder And will all of that gel coat come off of the original piece when making my mold? like i said i really want to replicate this body kit, but i would like to keep to original kit in great condition.
@@elijahpollard6828 As long as it's smooth, and you use releasing wax and PVA it will all come off perfectly.
Very nice job 👏👏👏👍👍🙌
Thank you! Cheers!
What was the epoxy for?was that the thing you were putting on the strand mats?
Yes, it was polyester resin. That's what I used on the strand mats.
First I put down a coat of polyester gel coat. Then polyester resin and mat over that.
@@DougBugBuilder that is awesome i will give it a try
Can you give a link of the materials you use?
There should be links in the description, although this video is pretty old. Let me know if any of them don't work.
Amazing bro
Thanks!
Tienes que ponerle bondo en los bordes y después el jerco
Gracias por el consejo, lo intentaré la próxima vez.
Loving the build; this is inspiring my own baja ('62). Quick question; how are you managing the ECU? Wasn't sure if you were planning on doing any wiring videos
I know I can run this J series with AEM. But I really would like to do it with a Holley setup. So I'm mulling that around in my head. Whatever I do I'll have detailed videos on the setup, including the wiring harness.
@RPMX Info Dot Com BINKY! A link ECU would be legit, however I was looking at the fuel tech ft600. The reduced hassle and cost of additional components make the price justifiable, even if it's still a bit steep.
m.th-cam.com/video/cj-IUr-Boxs/w-d-xo.html
A pro tip when fiberglassing...and need more stiffness...
You can get some silcon and create webbed grit on you dry fiberglass let it dry next day fiberglas over only the ribed silicone areas
You could use strofoam also sand the shap or embosed feature or pattern etc...besure to sure only expoy resin as polyester resin will eat the foam part
You could use hot glue, or hot glue with 1/4 dowels or foam bacer rod..of the size you need etc...
This tips makes light weigh reforced ribs easy. And you can fiberglass over some of them asap.
I like that silicone grid idea!
Appreciate the tips.
@@DougBugBuilder I've seen a few people use nylon rope to brace it by laying it in and glassing over it. It's cheap and effective.
Hey Brother nice job.
If you ever need a fallback career you could use your drywall float at Maaco auto body! Lol.
Yeah, lol, hopefully not.
Thanks for my teacher
You are welcome
Amazing video ty for making this
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the comment.
Will this method ruining the paint job on the car itself?
Technically no, the PVA washes off with water. So if carefully done this would not hurt a vehicles finish.
But if you get any resin on the vehicle surface that does not have PVA on it you'll have a problem.
Glassing over bondo has always failed for me. Even if you paint primer over it, wax it, and pva it, the resin finds a way. I use an epoxy primer.
I'm making a Buggy with a Beetle body made of fiberglass, but here in Brazil it is much more difficult and expensive
That's awesome you're making it out of fiberglass. Sorry about the cost, that's a bummer.
@@DougBugBuilder It's really amazing
on the edges you just have to give it a radius so it doesnt do that...ive never done it myself but ive been watching a lot of videos..... just do what you said with bondo and make the edges smoother instead of a hard 90
Thanks, and I agree. 👍
If you want it to hold its own shape you should cut some wood profiles and glass those in before you pull it off of the car.
I've seen that technique but never done it. I'm definitely going to give that a try. Thanks.
Don’t use the pva, use only wax and you will get a nice and smoth mould/part.
Thanks, I've experimented with no PVA before with good results. But I gotta say on this I was really afraid the Bondo was going to stick to the gel coat. But I'd like to ween off of it and skip that step all together.
@@DougBugBuilder or use a sponge paint pad gives a smooth finish to the pva
good job!
Thanks!
If that was silicone you put inside that joint that’s why you were having issues with the glass sticking. Stay away from silicone and use some wax or modelling clay.
It was silicone, thanks for the tip. 👍
You shouldn’t have to sand your mold, unless you have flaws. My opinion you should’ve applied polyester primer on your master to make perfect, only work hard one time instead working hard twice. Because you should know after making the mold all the hard work isn’t done🤦🏽♂️
Pretty decent turnout though, assuming you're not a glass guy.
Thanks!
@@DougBugBuilder I've been doing fiberglass for 30 years that's all I've ever done professionally. I'm a pattern and mold maker and a production plant manager. You have any questions don't hesitate to ask me I'd love to help out.
@@toddlehman928 I'll keep that in mind, thanks!
Did ypu really just say you shouldve done that side in bondo so you wouldmt have to redo it then turn around and bondo over paint and wax the filler lol
Yes you did.
Although this body is in terrible shape and will eventually need to be stripped, fixed and painted, it still feels like a waste of time to just throw drywall mud on there for fiberglass shaping.
High speed is to fast during the application of mat. Cant quite see what your doing. Add 30 sec to the video and slow it a little so we can follow you better. 😀
I'll slow them down a little going forward.
Show !!!!!!
Man good work but please wear gloves all the time you touch epoxies your body absorbs those harsh chemicals a tiny bit and you don't want that
700 HP Buckshot Racing Baja Bug Part 1 check this out..
Yeah I watched that, great build. The most amazing part is that he widened it 12 inches! Thanks for the suggestion. 👍
You should seriously avoid putting little tiny pieces on like that. For multiple reasons that's a big no no.
I am job
poi i vetri originali non ci stanno più 😂
Esatto, con questi pannelli in fibra di vetro non è più possibile utilizzare il vetro di fabbrica.
@@DougBugBuilderottimo lavoro bravissimo 👍si potrebbe provare resinare dal interno..