Hi Hugo, You hardly ever make references to Spain or Portugal, except for footwear. Those of us who follow you from this corner of Europe would appreciate it if you could guide us on our sartorial ladder with local options. We learn with every video and appreciate your divulgative efforts. Thank you very much.
Hugo, I saw the video you did to introduce Enzo Customer on your channel. Since then, have purchased a jacket, trouser and 2 shirts! I live in NYC so it is such a pleasure to have an affordable local studio for fittings and alterations. Thanks again for everything! Please send my best to your lovely wife Sonia! 🎩🌹🎩
Hi Hugo, I live in Barcelona and we have a lot of great MTM and Bespoke tailors and shoe makers here, Aramis, Bel i Cía, Santa Eulalia, Gimeno Chollet, Muki Bespoke, Cuervo Cobblerblack, Norman Vilalta... to name a few. Of course, if you consider the whole country we have a lot of great options. I'm sure all Catalan and Spanish viewers will enjoy and appreciate you making content on these artists and hearing your opinion on their work.
Hey Arnau, we know many of your list and especially Norman (Vilalta), Muki and of course Santa Eulalia whose owner (Luis Sans) is a good friend of us. Cheers, Hugo
Because of your review I had went to the Enzo Custom showroom in New York. It's comforting to know you still stand by them. Thanks for the info Hugo! I can't wait till my suit arrives 😁
Thank you Hugo😊 I got measured yesterday in Philadelphia at Enzo Custom and I did receive $100 off when I mentioned you and the fact that I only became aware of them because of your recommendation! Thank you so much for introducing me to this wonderful world!!!! Michael
I'm so happy to read this. Enzo is a good option, especially for beginners or those of you on a budget. We have a $100 discount agreement with them for our followers with the code hugoj. Cheers, Hugo
Thank you for the wonderful overview Hugo. I would like to mention Max Vela in Munich, Germany. Besides beautiful suits, they also focus on hunting apparel.
Thank you. Another fun and informative video. From experience, two additions: The Canadian companies Coppley and Samuelsohn are both an excellent value in MTM. Plenty of men's shops in the USA partner with both, for proper measurements, then fitting and adjustments. As a 40 regular with a great tailor, ....I've also had some good fortune thrifting off-the-rack blazers and suits. From Brioni to Zegna :)
I now have two Samuelson MTM suits - the one I had made for my wedding and, more recently, a fine dark navy suit that replaced several ill-fitting OTR suits. I will second your recommendation.
Another excellent video. I can heartily recommend Redmayne from the UK. Tom Mahon is the cutter, previously at Anderson and Shepard. Redmayne offers limited ready to wear, outstanding MTM, and true bespoke. Redmayne can be found in London, Cumbria (where their shop is) and they regularly travel to the US and Europe.
Bravo, Mr. Hugo, thanks for providing such fantastic information on the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure the knowledge in really invaluable, I have purchase a few suits online from well known companies, however I have never ventured into the made-to-measure or custom arena thanks again for sharing!
Have two MTM Brooks Brothers and I have been quite happy with them. Took a few trips to dial in the pants on my first suit, but the second suit was spot on from the outset. Both mine a three pieces and have gotten many compliments when worn. It’s amazing what just a bit of customization will do for fit. Can’t wait to purchase more.
I have seen exceptions to multiple fittings in bespoke but otherwise an individual paper pattern and handcrafted suit is still made. I feel like I should start with MTM as I don't have the budget for full bespoke with multiple fittings. For many years I've had interest in Tom James who make MTM in the lower tiers and also offer Oxxford and Ventura Bespoke in the highest tiers. Someday I would love to have at least one Savile Row bespoke suit as well. There is no Enzo Custom in my state so that isn't an option for me.
Thank you so much Hugo. This came at the perfect time for me, because I want to buy me my first jacket and was not aware of MTM. I'm lucky that Enzo has a location here in L.A.
Shoutout to BLVDier in Chicago for my fellow midwesterners. I particularly like that they have sample jackets and trousers available to try on and see how well the standard pattern block fits. AND they serve both men and women! I’ve also seen a fair bit of Cad & the Dandy’s work and it always looks good. The guys working in the London shop have great taste.
Enzo Custom in USA. Again. I love their website to customize a potential suit and get a general idea of how it will look and cost. I HOPE to get my first from them this year!
Hi Hugo, you mention some of the companies highlighted here are crafting in Romania, but as a Romanian myself I think an episode about tailoring options in Romania or in Eastern Europe in general would be greatly appreciated. Same for shoes options in Eastern Europe. Thank you very much!
Great Video as always! It's also quite timely for me, given the apparent sharp decline in quality (and increase in price) that both my tailor and I have noticed with some of the larger RTW/MTM outfits that I used to like.
Bespoke is available in London away from Saville Row not only in local areas but the City of London, Soho and elsewhere. The prices on the Row do not only reflect the craft of the tailors but significantly the ludicrous rents charged in London and the cachet of the Saville Row name.
Sorry to hear you got caught in the rain. Your suit should be fine, hang it on a good hangar and allow it to dry in an area with good ventilation, it’ll be fine.
This is good advice. What about the places that do semi-bespoke, where the pattern is drafted from scratch like a bespoke suit, but it's made offsite or overseas and is mostly made by machine?
Enzo has a location in Charlotte NC? My patience has paid off and you named somewhere within a few hours of me! A thousand thanks, Hugo. Now time to save up money and prepare research. (I am looking for a sport coat as a new father who wants to look presentable while chasing after children during the long humid summers here.)
Amazing as always! Thanks Hugo for the tips. I’m thinking about visiting a Enzo custom physical location. Definitely do want to get an opinion from a proper stylist.
I’ve had now 3 suits made by Sartoria Vanni from Florence with great results. They have made slight tweaks and improvements with each subsequent commission based on my feedback. They also offer some limited trunk shows overseas.
i live in Australia in a area that isn't a main city nor known for it classic mens wear options/shops. so with not very many options, there isn't any bespoke places at all in my area. so i chose Lanieri for their online option for the most part i am satisfied with my 3 piece suit. especially considering it was home measured. i would suggest finding a local tailor who is willing to measure you before hand. my suit isn't perfect i would say 95%/98% great in its fitting but i will definitely need alterations on the jacket,waistcoat and trousers. i think the suspender button installation needs to be improved and bigger buttons. i will need better buttons installed as currently they are pull the waist band forward and outwards at the front i will need to update my measurement profile it seems.they have pdf printable documents so the alterations tailor can write the adjustments made so that is great and then it can all be updated for future order.i also had a shirt made by the that fits really well. it will need a little altering at the cuffs but over better then anything cheap and ready polyester shirt you will buy.the suit fabric is beautiful a twill navy pinstripe and the shirt is cotton both feel so much nice and breath better then cheap polyester.
I live in Houston and always wore bespoke suites. However, due to the Covid lockdown my tailor retired. While there are numerous MTM, I have been able to find a Bespoke tailor in Houston. While I’m a little nervous I’m considering MTM and I’d like to see a video on what to look for in choosing one.
Many Savile Row tailors travel to Huston regularly. You’ll be hard pressed to do better than something off the row from a house with a style agreeable to your own.
WW Chan will be in Houston next month. Eric Jensen (he has done a lot of videos with Kirby Allison) is regularly in Houston. Also, Sartoria Pastena (I've used them) regularly travel to Houston.
This time, I like to add on the rise of made-to-measure at the cost of prêt a porter. I've shed the 'need' to wear a suit and therefore, when I *want* to wear one, I'd like it to be as well-fitting as possible and add to the occasion. Nowadays, I simply prefer made-to-measure or better over a suit that just doesn't fit quite properly. (It's also easier on your local tailor, as you can ask for a little extra fabric 'for the future'. Not all of us are able to return to the original tailor all the time.) It *seems to me* people are not only looking to be unique (whatever that might be), but are also willing to spend a little more on their suits in order to feel just a bit more special. Starting a rung (or two) higher is easier when you're in a position to care for a suit or able to get away with fewer, but more costly suits I'm by no means looking down on prêt à porter, twenty years (and, sadly, as much kilograms) ago, it was beyond my means to both get enough different suits for the office *and* have them all be made-to-measure or better. So most of my wardrobe was basically some local equivalent of 'Lafayette' and I went up from there, found a tailor to help me care for my suits and invested in nicer ones. People have to start somewhere and I think we should encourage every start. Just remember: the most 'expensive' suit you'll buy is the $100 dollar one you're wearing only once because it does nothing for you. The $5000 one you're wearing a thousand times and makes you feel bullet proof is 'cheap by comparison'. Full disclosure. My 'office uniform' has been boiling down over the years to 'good shoes (never compromise on shoes or socks, buy the best you can), proper jeans or chinos, a bespoke shirt (go bespoke whenever there's money left after buying the shoes) and a bare minimum of accessories (Huzzah for Dutch informality)'. This is just something I find comfortable to wear and by no means sartorial advice, you should browse around Hugo's video library for that. My only advice would be to wear what makes you feel either strong or comfortable, depending on the situation.
I went to Enzo in NYC and had a terrible experience. My first style advisor got so many measurements wrong and was nit very understanding of what I was looking for. I purchased 1 suit, 2 jackets, and 3 shirts. I ended up having to ask for a new style advisor because the fitting went so badly.
I just had a bad MTM experience with an Italian tailor. The crazy thing is the first suit that was done by this tailor turned out very well. The second suit and a jacket didn't turn out well. I suspect what happened is the tailor subbed my orders out to another party. This is why I would advise anyone to not do any sort of MTM or "remote bespoke" if the tailor isn't willing to provide fitting garments.
It depends my friend. Some MTM companies use "fitting garments" (ie ready made jackets of different sizes) with good success. But ultimately, an intermediate fitting will always be safer. Cheers, Hugo
Hong Kong and now Thailand are also great places to get places...but you have to know what you are getting and wait. In Thailand expect to wait and not pay $100 and pick it up the next day.
I am from and in America. I have heard you comment, politely on American style several times. Unfortunately I must agree with the addition that frequently the American lack of depth in style is all to often paired with a considerable indifference, and it seems to be getting worse. Is there a corresponding tendancy in Europe? If not why?
I visited Europe 40 years ago, (Holland, England, Germany, Italy, etc...). It seemed to me then that many natives dressed up even going to the corner market, I was hoping that you were immune to the down dressing casual trends. I am sorry to hear that it is otherwise. Thank you for the prompt reply. Your time and consideration is much appreciated.
Well, to be honest, the situation is degrading pretty much everywhere. But the "Come as you are" motto is, however, much more powerful in the USA where comfort is paramount (to the expense of style and beauty). Cheers, Hugo
@@Ac0mpUsmEntIsY oh no, us Germans are terrible dressers. Probably the worst if not one of the worst in Europe. A lot of Italians still put in effort but even then most don't care. But it is noticeably more dressy in the South. Most British people also dress lazily but the ones that do know classic menswear style still pull it off effortlessly.
I follow you from 2 diferent countries, Argentina (Where I was born) and México (Where I live now) and in both countries I don't know If I can get a "Custom suit" nowadays...
I am dressing Satorial everyday also as I drive an 40 ton truck and been getting nothing but compliments even where other truck drivers take pictures as I am the best dressed truck driver Example today I wear dark grey chinos and light blue button dwn dress shirt with red silk tie paired with charcoal waistcoat burgundy Lethao leather dress Oxford Light blue pattern linnen sports coat topped of with my black Bowler Hat and my waldor &Co leather band wrist watch and silver diamond ring with a sapphire center gem stone fragrance by Thomas clipper
Let's say that we, European, have a little bit more flair than most Americans in the way we pull off our suits. But the quality is there, believe me. Cheers, Hugo
Speaking from experience, the owners in prague looks very nice but the results I have seen from them were suboptimal to say the least. And for their asking price in a country that should be somewhat cheaper (imho) I am not really convinced yet. Would love to be proven wrong though!
Maybe on a sidenote: I think the many scabal outlets all over Europe are worth taking a look at. Nice tailoring made in Portugal, great construction and of course excellent fabrics. Fabrics are what I often find critique worthy on entry level mtm like Atelier munro, Suitsupply or Lanieri. The Italian fabrics are nice, yes. But you miss out on so much when you completely ignore English fabrics.
Good evening. The Owners are a great company and passionate professionals. If you feel unhappy or unsatisfied, I'm sure they'll do whatever needed to satisfy you. Personally we had a beautiful experience with this team and we know a lot of people who feel the same. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS afaik they were very nice about it. I'm still a bit sceptical whenever I see bad results coming out of a more than entry level mtm operation. Because imo anything apart from minor errors in fit are unacceptable. Your Czech suit is quite good but I will admit it is worrying if influencers so to speak have different results than "normal" people if you get what I'm saying. Will of course give them the benefit of the doubt. Cheers!
I'd respectfully disagree. If you try to size down you run the risk of going too small on a key measurement that can't be fixed. What I'd suggest instead of going smaller is that: if you can find a material and style that you like RTW, then make sure that you get the shoulder and collar as close to perfect as possible, also make sure that the sleeves aren't too short (and preferably err on the side of longer). From there a good alterations tailor should be able to customize and nail the fit to about an MTM standard for only a handful of dollars.
Who are great tailors for suits in Naples Italy ? Also are there Italian Tailors in Naples Italy who are not the Big Names but create the same Quality at lower prices ? I like the Naples Style . Thanks
Good evening, Neapolitans bespoke tailors charge, in general, around $3500 for a bespoke suit (a little more when they travel, a little less if you come to Napoli). And besides the big names you can find excellent artisans like Pino Peluso, Domenico Pirozzi, Ciardi and many others. Also don't forget Sartoria Crimi in Palermo Sicily. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for replying , it is very kind of you, i have written those down and will research them. We will be traveling to Naples very soon for @ three months, my seventh trip , I was last in Italy before the Lockdowns for three months staying in the Lazio region and was looking at opening up a high end Cigar lounge, in the most incredible location however the cost of freight as I am sure you know went through the roof and that venture was put on hold , However we are heading back soon to try and get it going again [ large decisions with what is going on especially if you are aware of the economic situation, if one reads such people as martinarmstrong etc] . I spent only a week in Napoli when i was just beginning to get interested in bespoke suits, looking at small merchants , whom were alot cheaper 2000 - 600 Euros , three piece . Alot more to say , especially in regards to building traditional culture with events etc with the beautiful building i look to transform into a high end cigar lounge so we all can reach more people . The deliberate demoralization of society , is coming to a head and so many are looking for inspiration and you and others are imo at the forefront . It is extremely important , far more than i can say here . Thank you. btw I just ordered your Book
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for replying , it is very kind of you, i have written those down and will research them. We will be traveling to Naples very soon for @ three months, my seventh trip , I was last in Italy before the Lockdowns for three months staying in the Lazio region and was looking at opening up a high end Cigar lounge, in the most incredible location however the cost of freight as I am sure you know went through the roof and that venture was put on hold , However we are heading back soon to try and get it going again [ large decisions with what is going on especially if you are aware of the economic situation, if one reads such people as martinarmstrong etc] . I spent only a week in Napoli when i was just beginning to get interested in bespoke suits, looking at small merchants , whom were alot cheaper 2000 - 600 Euros , three piece . Alot more to say , especially in regards to building traditional culture with events etc with the beautiful building i look to transform into a high end cigar lounge so we all can reach more people . The deliberate demoralization of society , is coming to a head and so many are looking for inspiration and you and others are imo at the forefront . It is extremely important , far more than i can say here . Thank you
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for replying , it is very kind of you, i have written those down and will research them. We will be traveling to Naples very soon for @ three months, my seventh trip , I was last in Italy before the Lockdowns for three months staying in the Lazio region and was looking at opening up a high end Cigar lounge, in the most incredible location however the cost of freight as I am sure you know went through the roof and that venture was put on hold , However we are heading back soon to try and get it going again [ large decisions with what is going on especially if you are aware of the economic situation, if one reads such people as martinarmstrong etc] . I spent only a week in Napoli when i was just beginning to get interested in bespoke suits, looking at small merchants , whom were alot cheaper 2000 - 600 Euros , three piece . Alot more to say , especially in regards to building traditional culture with events etc with the beautiful building i look to transform into a high end cigar lounge so we all can reach more people . The deliberate demoralization of society , is coming to a head and so many are looking for inspiration and you and others are imo at the forefront . It is extremely important , far more than i can say here . Thank you. I have ordered you book .
Hi Hugo, You hardly ever make references to Spain or Portugal, except for footwear.
Those of us who follow you from this corner of Europe would appreciate it if you could guide us on our sartorial ladder with local options.
We learn with every video and appreciate your divulgative efforts.
Thank you very much.
Hugo, I saw the video you did to introduce Enzo Customer on your channel. Since then, have purchased a jacket, trouser and 2 shirts! I live in NYC so it is such a pleasure to have an affordable local studio for fittings and alterations. Thanks again for everything! Please send my best to your lovely wife Sonia! 🎩🌹🎩
Hi Hugo, I live in Barcelona and we have a lot of great MTM and Bespoke tailors and shoe makers here, Aramis, Bel i Cía, Santa Eulalia, Gimeno Chollet, Muki Bespoke, Cuervo Cobblerblack, Norman Vilalta... to name a few. Of course, if you consider the whole country we have a lot of great options. I'm sure all Catalan and Spanish viewers will enjoy and appreciate you making content on these artists and hearing your opinion on their work.
Hey Arnau, we know many of your list and especially Norman (Vilalta), Muki and of course Santa Eulalia whose owner (Luis Sans) is a good friend of us. Cheers, Hugo
Because of your review I had went to the Enzo Custom showroom in New York. It's comforting to know you still stand by them. Thanks for the info Hugo! I can't wait till my suit arrives 😁
Let us know how it went! All my best, Hugo
Thank you Hugo😊 I got measured yesterday in Philadelphia at Enzo Custom and I did receive $100 off when I mentioned you and the fact that I only became aware of them because of your recommendation!
Thank you so much for introducing me to this wonderful world!!!!
Michael
I'm so happy to read this. Enzo is a good option, especially for beginners or those of you on a budget. We have a $100 discount agreement with them for our followers with the code hugoj. Cheers, Hugo
Thank you for the wonderful overview Hugo. I would like to mention Max Vela in Munich, Germany. Besides beautiful suits, they also focus on hunting apparel.
Thanks Simon! Hugo
Thank you.
Another fun and informative video.
From experience, two additions:
The Canadian companies Coppley and Samuelsohn are both an excellent value in MTM.
Plenty of men's shops in the USA partner with both, for proper measurements, then fitting and adjustments.
As a 40 regular with a great tailor,
....I've also had some good fortune thrifting off-the-rack blazers and suits.
From Brioni to Zegna :)
Many thanks Marc for your suggestions! Cheers, Hugo
I now have two Samuelson MTM suits - the one I had made for my wedding and, more recently, a fine dark navy suit that replaced several ill-fitting OTR suits. I will second your recommendation.
I like, I listen, I (without fail) learn!
Thank you so much! Cheers, Hugo
amavi, audivi, didici
Another excellent video. I can heartily recommend Redmayne from the UK. Tom Mahon is the cutter, previously at Anderson and Shepard. Redmayne offers limited ready to wear, outstanding MTM, and true bespoke. Redmayne can be found in London, Cumbria (where their shop is) and they regularly travel to the US and Europe.
Thanks Jeff for this recommendation! Cheers, Hugo
Bravo, Mr. Hugo, thanks for providing such fantastic information on the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure the knowledge in really invaluable, I have purchase a few suits online from well known companies, however I have never ventured into the made-to-measure or custom arena thanks again for sharing!
Have two MTM Brooks Brothers and I have been quite happy with them. Took a few trips to dial in the pants on my first suit, but the second suit was spot on from the outset. Both mine a three pieces and have gotten many compliments when worn. It’s amazing what just a bit of customization will do for fit. Can’t wait to purchase more.
Hugo Jacomet is a real man who knows what he talks about. Big respect to him 🙏
I am excited to share this video with those beginning their sartorial journey
I have seen exceptions to multiple fittings in bespoke but otherwise an individual paper pattern and handcrafted suit is still made. I feel like I should start with MTM as I don't have the budget for full bespoke with multiple fittings. For many years I've had interest in Tom James who make MTM in the lower tiers and also offer Oxxford and Ventura Bespoke in the highest tiers. Someday I would love to have at least one Savile Row bespoke suit as well. There is no Enzo Custom in my state so that isn't an option for me.
Thank you so much Hugo. This came at the perfect time for me, because I want to buy me my first jacket and was not aware of MTM. I'm lucky that Enzo has a location here in L.A.
Yes they do! Don't forget to use the Hugoj code to enjoy the discount for Sartorial Talks viewers. Cheers, Hugo
As usual, indispensable advice. Thank you Hugo!
You're very welcome my friend! Hugo
Shoutout to BLVDier in Chicago for my fellow midwesterners. I particularly like that they have sample jackets and trousers available to try on and see how well the standard pattern block fits. AND they serve both men and women!
I’ve also seen a fair bit of Cad & the Dandy’s work and it always looks good. The guys working in the London shop have great taste.
I don't know what you are referring to, but yes YT does hides or even cancel some comments although it's quite rare on this channel. best, Hugo
Enzo Custom in USA. Again. I love their website to customize a potential suit and get a general idea of how it will look and cost. I HOPE to get my first from them this year!
We hope for you too my friend! Cheers, Hugo
Hi Hugo, you mention some of the companies highlighted here are crafting in Romania, but as a Romanian myself I think an episode about tailoring options in Romania or in Eastern Europe in general would be greatly appreciated. Same for shoes options in Eastern Europe.
Thank you very much!
Great Video as always!
It's also quite timely for me, given the apparent sharp decline in quality (and increase in price) that both my tailor and I have noticed with some of the larger RTW/MTM outfits that I used to like.
Thanks Brian! All my best, Hugo
Bespoke is available in London away from Saville Row not only in local areas but the City of London, Soho and elsewhere. The prices on the Row do not only reflect the craft of the tailors but significantly the ludicrous rents charged in London and the cachet of the Saville Row name.
Thanks. Where can someone get a made to measure/ custom suit in London ?
@@JoeBooks Depends very much on what you want to spend. Bespoke is better value in my opinion but will take longer to deliver.
Great presentation as always.
Needed this video today! Had a rubbish week and one of my bespoke suits got ruined in the rain 🤣😭. Thank you for such interesting posts
Sorry to hear you got caught in the rain. Your suit should be fine, hang it on a good hangar and allow it to dry in an area with good ventilation, it’ll be fine.
If it's a half or full canvasses suit, it should recover quite fast! Cheers, Hugo
In Nigeria, Atafo is really doing a great job with MTM. They are spot on with the measurements and the fit is perfectly eye catching.
Can you please do an extensive video on Suitsupply's custom program for business suits and shirts please? Thanks!
In Shibuya Japan, at the Isetan store, there's an eight story men's store. They have made to measure suits. Beautiful store
It would be nice if you recommend at least one of every country from South East Asia also.
This is good advice. What about the places that do semi-bespoke, where the pattern is drafted from scratch like a bespoke suit, but it's made offsite or overseas and is mostly made by machine?
Great video Hugo! Any comments on Divij in California?
Good morning Carlos. I don't know them. Cheers, Hugo
Very helpful video, Hugo!! Thank you so much.
You're very welcome David! Cheers, Hugo
Enzo has a location in Charlotte NC? My patience has paid off and you named somewhere within a few hours of me! A thousand thanks, Hugo. Now time to save up money and prepare research. (I am looking for a sport coat as a new father who wants to look presentable while chasing after children during the long humid summers here.)
I want a burnt orange pocket square 😊
Hahaha, yes it's the best and most versatile colour for PS! Cheers, Hugo
I purchased a made to measure Peter Millar suit at Nordstrom. I was pleased.
Do Blandin and Delloye do OTR as well? It would be great to have more options within Canada! I’ll have to visit them next time I’m in Quebec.
I believe they do only MTM but at a quite affordable price. Cheers, Hugo
Amazing as always! Thanks Hugo for the tips. I’m thinking about visiting a Enzo custom physical location. Definitely do want to get an opinion from a proper stylist.
I’ve had now 3 suits made by Sartoria Vanni from Florence with great results. They have made slight tweaks and improvements with each subsequent commission based on my feedback. They also offer some limited trunk shows overseas.
i live in Australia in a area that isn't a main city nor known for it classic mens wear options/shops. so with not very many options, there isn't any bespoke places at all in my area. so i chose Lanieri for their online option for the most part i am satisfied with my 3 piece suit. especially considering it was home measured. i would suggest finding a local tailor who is willing to measure you before hand. my suit isn't perfect i would say 95%/98% great in its fitting but i will definitely need alterations on the jacket,waistcoat and trousers. i think the suspender button installation needs to be improved and bigger buttons. i will need better buttons installed as currently they are pull the waist band forward and outwards at the front i will need to update my measurement profile it seems.they have pdf printable documents so the alterations tailor can write the adjustments made so that is great and then it can all be updated for future order.i also had a shirt made by the that fits really well. it will need a little altering at the cuffs but over better then anything cheap and ready polyester shirt you will buy.the suit fabric is beautiful a twill navy pinstripe and the shirt is cotton both feel so much nice and breath better then cheap polyester.
Classy and informative video Hugo!
I live in Houston and always wore bespoke suites. However, due to the Covid lockdown my tailor retired. While there are numerous MTM, I have been able to find a Bespoke tailor in Houston. While I’m a little nervous I’m considering MTM and I’d like to see a video on what to look for in choosing one.
Many Savile Row tailors travel to Huston regularly. You’ll be hard pressed to do better than something off the row from a house with a style agreeable to your own.
WW Chan will be in Houston next month. Eric Jensen (he has done a lot of videos with Kirby Allison) is regularly in Houston. Also, Sartoria Pastena (I've used them) regularly travel to Houston.
Your suite is stunning Hugo, is this linen?
This time, I like to add on the rise of made-to-measure at the cost of prêt a porter.
I've shed the 'need' to wear a suit and therefore, when I *want* to wear one, I'd like it to be as well-fitting as possible and add to the occasion. Nowadays, I simply prefer made-to-measure or better over a suit that just doesn't fit quite properly.
(It's also easier on your local tailor, as you can ask for a little extra fabric 'for the future'. Not all of us are able to return to the original tailor all the time.)
It *seems to me* people are not only looking to be unique (whatever that might be), but are also willing to spend a little more on their suits in order to feel just a bit more special. Starting a rung (or two) higher is easier when you're in a position to care for a suit or able to get away with fewer, but more costly suits
I'm by no means looking down on prêt à porter, twenty years (and, sadly, as much kilograms) ago, it was beyond my means to both get enough different suits for the office *and* have them all be made-to-measure or better. So most of my wardrobe was basically some local equivalent of 'Lafayette' and I went up from there, found a tailor to help me care for my suits and invested in nicer ones.
People have to start somewhere and I think we should encourage every start. Just remember: the most 'expensive' suit you'll buy is the $100 dollar one you're wearing only once because it does nothing for you. The $5000 one you're wearing a thousand times and makes you feel bullet proof is 'cheap by comparison'.
Full disclosure. My 'office uniform' has been boiling down over the years to 'good shoes (never compromise on shoes or socks, buy the best you can), proper jeans or chinos, a bespoke shirt (go bespoke whenever there's money left after buying the shoes) and a bare minimum of accessories (Huzzah for Dutch informality)'. This is just something I find comfortable to wear and by no means sartorial advice, you should browse around Hugo's video library for that. My only advice would be to wear what makes you feel either strong or comfortable, depending on the situation.
Many thanks Piet for your honest and wise words! All my best, Hugo
I went to Enzo in NYC and had a terrible experience. My first style advisor got so many measurements wrong and was nit very understanding of what I was looking for. I purchased 1 suit, 2 jackets, and 3 shirts. I ended up having to ask for a new style advisor because the fitting went so badly.
It can happen but it's, in my experience, rare. And as far as I understand, you've been well treated after? Cheers, Hugo
Hugo you should have mentioned Anglo Italian in London - most excellent MTM tailors
Hugo saying like comment subscribe.....hahahaha, always learning new things my friend. Gotta feed that algorithm machine to get the good word out!
Thanks, Hugo, for your insight and advice 🤔👍 .
Appreciate 🙏 you and Sonya !
Thank you so much! All our best, Hugo & Sonya
Im glad to see you again !!!
Thank you!! Hugo
Good timing, I need a new suit :)
Excellent timing indeed! All my best, Hugo
Great episode sir.
I just had a bad MTM experience with an Italian tailor. The crazy thing is the first suit that was done by this tailor turned out very well. The second suit and a jacket didn't turn out well. I suspect what happened is the tailor subbed my orders out to another party. This is why I would advise anyone to not do any sort of MTM or "remote bespoke" if the tailor isn't willing to provide fitting garments.
It depends my friend. Some MTM companies use "fitting garments" (ie ready made jackets of different sizes) with good success. But ultimately, an intermediate fitting will always be safer. Cheers, Hugo
Ever had any experience with Dutch tailors and made to measure?
awesome video, thank you
Richard James is pretty solid for me.
Agree! All my best, Hugo
I would love to have one made! But it's no where to wear it.
My Dad wore suits everywhere...I will too.
You can decide where to wear it my friend! Cheers, Hugo
I wear sports coats to the grocery store. People enjoy it and stop and talk to me
Hong Kong and now Thailand are also great places to get places...but you have to know what you are getting and wait. In Thailand expect to wait and not pay $100 and pick it up the next day.
Waiting is simply part of the MTM process of course. Cheers, Hugo
I am from and in America. I have heard you comment, politely on American style several times. Unfortunately I must agree with the addition that frequently the American lack of depth in style is all to often paired with a considerable indifference, and it seems to be getting worse.
Is there a corresponding tendancy in Europe? If not why?
Most people dress poorly nowadays. America is just the frontrunner.
I visited Europe 40 years ago, (Holland, England, Germany, Italy, etc...). It seemed to me then that many natives dressed up even going to the corner market, I was hoping that you were immune to the down dressing casual trends. I am sorry to hear that it is otherwise.
Thank you for the prompt reply.
Your time and consideration is much appreciated.
Well, to be honest, the situation is degrading pretty much everywhere. But the "Come as you are" motto is, however, much more powerful in the USA where comfort is paramount (to the expense of style and beauty). Cheers, Hugo
@@Ac0mpUsmEntIsY oh no, us Germans are terrible dressers. Probably the worst if not one of the worst in Europe. A lot of Italians still put in effort but even then most don't care. But it is noticeably more dressy in the South. Most British people also dress lazily but the ones that do know classic menswear style still pull it off effortlessly.
I follow you from 2 diferent countries, Argentina (Where I was born) and México (Where I live now) and in both countries I don't know If I can get a "Custom suit" nowadays...
There's a Silver Deer store in Mexico City that I think can benefit you.
I am dressing Satorial everyday also as I drive an 40 ton truck and been getting nothing but compliments even where other truck drivers take pictures as I am the best dressed truck driver
Example today I wear dark grey chinos and light blue button dwn dress shirt with red silk tie paired with charcoal waistcoat burgundy Lethao leather dress Oxford Light blue pattern linnen sports coat topped of with my black Bowler Hat and my waldor &Co leather band wrist watch and silver diamond ring with a sapphire center gem stone fragrance by Thomas clipper
Made to measure, from Spier and McKay, is good enough for me!
Hi ! M from BANGLADESH !lluv & try to follow ur listening
Thanks my friend! Hugo
Thank You!!
What Hugo got from Enzo doesn't look like what's on their Instagram page. They need to upgrade their marketing.
Let's say that we, European, have a little bit more flair than most Americans in the way we pull off our suits. But the quality is there, believe me. Cheers, Hugo
Strange how TH-cam hides / deescalates certain comments. Seems arbitrary.
Good morning Jeff. It happens, rarely, but it does happen (and we don't know why). Cheers, Hugo
Et Guyot?!
Speaking from experience, the owners in prague looks very nice but the results I have seen from them were suboptimal to say the least. And for their asking price in a country that should be somewhat cheaper (imho) I am not really convinced yet. Would love to be proven wrong though!
Maybe on a sidenote: I think the many scabal outlets all over Europe are worth taking a look at. Nice tailoring made in Portugal, great construction and of course excellent fabrics. Fabrics are what I often find critique worthy on entry level mtm like Atelier munro, Suitsupply or Lanieri. The Italian fabrics are nice, yes. But you miss out on so much when you completely ignore English fabrics.
Good evening. The Owners are a great company and passionate professionals. If you feel unhappy or unsatisfied, I'm sure they'll do whatever needed to satisfy you. Personally we had a beautiful experience with this team and we know a lot of people who feel the same. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS afaik they were very nice about it. I'm still a bit sceptical whenever I see bad results coming out of a more than entry level mtm operation. Because imo anything apart from minor errors in fit are unacceptable. Your Czech suit is quite good but I will admit it is worrying if influencers so to speak have different results than "normal" people if you get what I'm saying. Will of course give them the benefit of the doubt. Cheers!
Beutiful were traditional healer
First! 🙌🏾
Pathetic
Yes sir! Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKSFor a moment I thought the gentleman at 12:14 was a man by the name of Andrew Tate! 😆
FACT: people wearing MTM buy slim fit shirts :) Tip for the money conscious who wants the same result as MTM: buy RTW but one or two sizes smaller :)
I'd respectfully disagree. If you try to size down you run the risk of going too small on a key measurement that can't be fixed.
What I'd suggest instead of going smaller is that:
if you can find a material and style that you like RTW, then make sure that you get the shoulder and collar as close to perfect as possible, also make sure that the sleeves aren't too short (and preferably err on the side of longer). From there a good alterations tailor should be able to customize and nail the fit to about an MTM standard for only a handful of dollars.
@aar498 what you are saying makes zero sense. Also buying extra tight suits/shirts looks bad.
@@teekue You didn't get the joke.
@@aar498 I didnt get anything.
Who are great tailors for suits in Naples Italy ? Also are there Italian Tailors in Naples Italy who are not the Big Names but create the same Quality at lower prices ?
I like the Naples Style . Thanks
Good evening, Neapolitans bespoke tailors charge, in general, around $3500 for a bespoke suit (a little more when they travel, a little less if you come to Napoli). And besides the big names you can find excellent artisans like Pino Peluso, Domenico Pirozzi, Ciardi and many others. Also don't forget Sartoria Crimi in Palermo Sicily. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for replying , it is very kind of you, i have written those down and will research them. We will be traveling to Naples very soon for @ three months, my seventh trip , I was last in Italy before the Lockdowns for three months staying in the Lazio region and was looking at opening up a high end Cigar lounge, in the most incredible location however the cost of freight as I am sure you know went through the roof and that venture was put on hold , However we are heading back soon to try and get it going again [ large decisions with what is going on especially if you are aware of the economic situation, if one reads such people as martinarmstrong etc] . I spent only a week in Napoli when i was just beginning to get interested in bespoke suits, looking at small merchants , whom were alot cheaper 2000 - 600 Euros , three piece . Alot more to say , especially in regards to building traditional culture with events etc with the beautiful building i look to transform into a high end cigar lounge so we all can reach more people . The deliberate demoralization of society , is coming to a head and so many are looking for inspiration and you and others are imo at the forefront . It is extremely important , far more than i can say here . Thank you. btw I just ordered your Book
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for replying , it is very kind of you, i have written those down and will research them. We will be traveling to Naples very soon for @ three months, my seventh trip , I was last in Italy before the Lockdowns for three months staying in the Lazio region and was looking at opening up a high end Cigar lounge, in the most incredible location however the cost of freight as I am sure you know went through the roof and that venture was put on hold , However we are heading back soon to try and get it going again [ large decisions with what is going on especially if you are aware of the economic situation, if one reads such people as martinarmstrong etc] . I spent only a week in Napoli when i was just beginning to get interested in bespoke suits, looking at small merchants , whom were alot cheaper 2000 - 600 Euros , three piece . Alot more to say , especially in regards to building traditional culture with events etc with the beautiful building i look to transform into a high end cigar lounge so we all can reach more people . The deliberate demoralization of society , is coming to a head and so many are looking for inspiration and you and others are imo at the forefront . It is extremely important , far more than i can say here . Thank you
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for replying , it is very kind of you, i have written those down and will research them. We will be traveling to Naples very soon for @ three months, my seventh trip , I was last in Italy before the Lockdowns for three months staying in the Lazio region and was looking at opening up a high end Cigar lounge, in the most incredible location however the cost of freight as I am sure you know went through the roof and that venture was put on hold , However we are heading back soon to try and get it going again [ large decisions with what is going on especially if you are aware of the economic situation, if one reads such people as martinarmstrong etc] . I spent only a week in Napoli when i was just beginning to get interested in bespoke suits, looking at small merchants , whom were alot cheaper 2000 - 600 Euros , three piece . Alot more to say , especially in regards to building traditional culture with events etc with the beautiful building i look to transform into a high end cigar lounge so we all can reach more people . The deliberate demoralization of society , is coming to a head and so many are looking for inspiration and you and others are imo at the forefront . It is extremely important , far more than i can say here . Thank you. I have ordered you book .