I’ve never been a fan of wearing suits, but this channel has made me rethink that. Thank you for this body of work you have created. Very helpful, I am following your advice now for my early 30’s.
Hi Hugo, love your videos and the information you provide. I’m 60yo, I will be attending my nephew’s wedding in august. I just ordered my first made to measure suit, made to measure shirts , and shoes from Beckett & Simonen. Never too late to change. Im short and have a couple of extra pounds. I’m so excited about having nice clothes that truly fit me.
I’m looking to get fitted for my very first MTM suit next Monday. This video came at the perfect time! I always appreciate your advice and insight, Hugo. Regards.
Hugo is of course correct, but as I tell my customers (I am a style consultant), the person needs to listen to what you are after. Many MTM consultants will push a customer with a 45minute consult. When you making the appointment ask how long a consult takes. During the consult, the person should be trying to find out your style and colouring; it's OK if they want you to branch into a different colour or style. Not all consultants know the difference between a cocktail suit and a dinner suit (which is OK), but if you are comfortable with the person and they are listening to what you are wanting, that is key. It's also OK to visit several boutiques to find one that's comfortable for you. Happy hunting.
This is one of the best videos regarding MTM/bespoke tailoring. It helped me with my tailor. Yes, he sais 'bespoke' tailoring (he had a bespoke tailoring atelier, but stopped due to demand and cost). This is where the 'marketing' stopped. He has two places overseas where he sends it to. One in UK other in Eastern europe. He doesn't mention the names, but other than that he's very transparent. He takes even more than 2 hours for you, and does multiple fittings. He's also more expensive than other made-to-measure places, but he's good. He also designed his own shirt collard and does this in collaboration with a well known shirt maker. It's also one of the go-to place for our most well known national etiquette man. So all in all, he's not a bespoke tailor anymore, but had his expertise, and now does the business alone. Long story short.. this video helped me to determine if this place was for me. And luckily, it was. So thank you again mr Jacomet. Your videos has been more than once very helpful. Oh, PS. The tailor also has your books on the shelves, and also was wearing the same socks I had, as seen on your channel (Mes Chachettes Rouge). So it was a great match 🙂
Learn so much in this video, the last part about this world needing beauty and elegance really got me ,haven’t thought about dressing well in that way before…
Hi Hugo, I just got my first bespoke suit in Romania, 3 fittings, full canvas for 900 eur. Now the result is ok, if I were to grade it would be 8.5/10 (compared to what I see on your channel). Price very much depends on the location.
I appreciate this video so much. I recently had an underwhelming MTM experience that felt very "rushed" here in the US, and have been looking for some new options.
Dear Khalid, I know some MTM shops are more concerned with making fast money than to do a proper job. Run way from these people and select a proper MTM company like Enzo or CKC. All my best wishes! Hugo
I am so glad that you recommended Enzo in DC. I’m very familiar with the area that they are located in, and it’s easy for me to get to via the subway. I will definitely consider them for my next suit.
Greetings from South Korea! Thank you for all of the essential information you enlighten us with! Will be looking forward to all of the upcoming videos 👍
@@interpres5895 Dear friend, we were supposed to come to your country in March 2020, but unfortunately this trip was cancelled because of the pandemic. But we'll come to meet the sartorial scene there sooner than later (hopefully). Cheers, Hugo
I'm a big fan of Mr. Cavaliere in Toronto for M2M work. My fitting with him was several hours long, and his knowledge of fitting is great! He also has wonderful fabrics available. Thanks for this video! Your points just reinforced my pleasure with Jon and his work.
Bonsoir @@SARTORIALTALKS , visiter un atelier ici au Canada ferait une bonne video informative! Grand merci, je n'ai que 23 ans, grâce à vous, et Mr Allison, je me trouve émerveillée avec l'art de la couture et le monde d’élégance discrète!
I made some funny sartorial moves in my younger days: buying Marcoliani socks on a student budget, wearing the same pair of Alden Indy boots daily for three years... and somehow thinking it was appropriate to spend $600 on a "custom" (actually questionable MTM) suit, VBC Super 110's. Lessons were learned. My one good decision? Going with Crockett & Jones for my first pair of dress shoes... It's great that there are high quality videos like this to help out people new to the game! Bravo :)
Congratulations on gaining more press coverage of this sartorial mouvement, specialy in France. I'm impatiently waiting for "débat de midi" with France inter ! My best. Ahmed
As always, a fantastic video! I haven't had a chance to visit Enzo Custom here in NYC yet. When I get closer to buying, I'll pay them a visit. Hopefully in the next few months. CKC is one I hadn't heard of before but my gosh.... Absolutely STUNNING work! I can see why you like CKC so much... His aesthetic is similar to yours. At first, I was a little taken aback with his pricing. But I remembered when I spec'd out a suit at Enzo Custom with the fabric and options I wanted. It's about the same. It's funny Hugo.. I find out more about clothing options from you than anyone else here in New York City! Thank you for the information!
Fantastic Quality and information as always, I'm very grateful for your efforts and videos about pertinent topics, Hugo and Sonya. Another detail that I've noticed in good quality MTM or custom tailor salons is the Armsyce's height and shape. The smaller (more flat, horizontal) and higher armholes really tend to signify a better quality MTM salon, and subsequently a better tailor. Saved me many times. Can't wait till the next video 👍🏾💪🏾
Hello Hugo, great video as always. If I may add a few things that I've learned over the years: 1) there's few things in the sartorial world that show as much variety in terms of quality as MTM tailoring. Learn as much as you can about customers' experiences with any MTM house you're even remotely considering. Some take less than 10 measurements, others more than 20 - that alone tells you a lot! 2) Many MTM brands are very restricted AND very boring in terms of their "house style". Some come up with suits that look like glorified high street products. Wanting to purchase a suit that looks somewhat close to bespoke in terms of style and flair limits your choice. As for me, my MTM of choice is Maximilian Mogg - many measurements taken, advanced block patterns with loads of possible adjustments, one mandatory fitting plus multiple fittings if needed, very expressive and elegant house style. Mogg is not cheap, but the product still punches way above its price point. Cheers!
Hugo, I thought your jacket looked nice until I saw the photos of you standing wearing the full suit. It's looks fantastic. I'm probably returning to Europe in a year or so and I love Prague so I'll definitely choose The Owners as a tailors. And my wife would love to get some tailored clothing too. Thanks for the tip.
I live in Prague so I’m really happy you got to visit it. I remember the owner from The Owners working for/with different companies in the past and my experience was not that great compared to what I was used to in the west, but I’m going to trust your judgement and give them a chance. By the way, another great place in Prague is an atelier called The High Cuff. It focuses on casual wear (mostly denim) but it’s fully bespoke, made in Prague by the owner and his staff and the prices are unbelievable (I paid €160 for a pair of bespoke selvedge denim jeans). And as for food, if you’re here again, I’ll be happy to recommend something to you because the city centre is full of overpriced tourist traps.
Thank you sir for your comment. From what I understand, the people from the Owners decided to open their own shop because they were precisely not happy with the methods and the quality delivered by their former employer. I can testify the quality at their own shop is now very good and the value excellent. Let me know when you have a new experience with them. Cheers, Hugo
Excellent tips. Really help cut through the web clutter of MTM specialists. Thanks you so much. For future, would love to see one on Vietnam, India and China (well maybe not one but three separate videos). Thanks for your passion and kindness.
Excellent video appreciate the definition and clarification between bespoke and MTM/MTO clothing and the suggestions you offer to assist when deciding on purchasing a made-to-measure suit thanks for sharing
I recently scheduled an appointment with Enzo Custom in DC. It was a very nice experience. Not rushed at all. I picked out an olive colored linen fabric. I still have about two weeks before it will be ready for a fitting. Another made to measure service that deserves mention is Redmayne in the UK. They are upfront on their website about the difference between their bespoke products and made to measure. If you can’t make it to the UK to visit their shop for a fitting, they offer a “suit copying service.” You send them a suit which they use to get your measurements, and they craft a suit in their house style. Both their MTM and suit copying service appear to be pretty reasonable. A 2 piece suit will run about $1360.
Bonsoir Hugo, I am pretty new to your channel because my taste in clothing is starting to change in the last couple of months. I faced your channel to start to learn about classic clothing (and tastefull outfits). All your videos are interesting and full of informations, so I really appriciate them! I would like to ask you if you can reccomend some brand that produces good quality classical clothing off the shelf or ready to wear jackets and suits. Big hug from Italy and ansious to see your new videos
Hi Hugo, couple of questions. Based on your classifications how would you classify these two types of shops: 1) you have a pattern made of you, it's your pattern, but the manufacturing is done overseas. Example Sartorial Gallo (sic) in New York, where he sends the pattern to the Italian workshops but the measurements are done in NYC. 2) the shop makes a digital pattern and sends it to an Asian workshop to perform the work.
Good evening, it's MTM as long as it doesn't offer multiple fittings (basted first, then 2 or 3 intermediate fittings). If Eric Jensen (that we know well) is measuring you, drawing your pattern but, much more important, allows multiple fittings (at least 3 if not 4), than it's "almost-bespoke". On the other hand, if he receives the suit all made, and simply perform alterations, then it's MTM, not bespoke. For your second question, it's pure industrial MTM. All my best, Hugo
This is perfect, just what i needed, i always wanted to go to Paris to Howard’s to buy some shirts and now he does Suits, amazing. Will make an appointment. Thank you Hugo.
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hi Mr Jacomet. I'm a french student in nursing in Indre et Loire, and I'm getting more and more interested in Scavini's suit looking to purchase my first one. Do you have any idea about how much delay I should be expecting if I visit them ? Cause I would imagine they probably have a lot of clients for a suit of this quality for this price bracket.
@@J.c410 Cher JC, téléphonez de ma part à Julien Scavini et demandez lui. Je pense que le délai est de 4 à 6 semaines, mais demandez lui confirmation. Amicalement, Hugo
I got my first bespoke (not MTM) suit when I was 21, that thing was beautiful. I don't know what happened to it though, must have lost it during one of my moves. Now at 38, I think it's time I get me another one.
Hugo, I would be interested to hear your thoughts on Suitsupply MTM. I have several MTM Thomas Mason shirts from them which are life changing. I am very close to going with a VBC made to measure suit!
Suitsupply is great deal for the price but the main "complain" people have is that it is a pretty damn tight fit. For some it is actually a blessing, but it isnt for you if you have a muscular body or if you're overweight
Great video, I appreciate your take on the MTM industry. It's interesting about your friend, because I've found that great shirt makers make great tailors if properly trained.
Bravo Hugo and Sonya… Do you have a recommendation for a great tailor based in Singapore? It would be great to see a video that covers suits for Day and Evening wear in hot humid weathers (35 degrees Celsius with 100% humidity) like here in Singapore where the weather is the same all year round. It would be great to hear your expert advice on how to manage sweat and stay dry wearing suits. Have you come across new clothing technology or techniques to keep dry in hot humid weather conditions?
Dear Bob, Kevin Seah in Singapore is the place to go (you can mention our name as he's a good friend of us). Also you have CNES for shoes (incredible value). Concerning the problem of hot humid weather condition, the answer lies in the choice of fabric (like the "Blue Feel" bunch by Drago, 190g, fantastic fabric for hot weather) and in the construction of the jackets (half lined or unstructured). Hope it helps, Cheers, Hugo
Hi Hugo, I live in Chicago and was curious if you are familiar with Balani or Richard Bennett. Balani is a MTM shop but I believe Richard Bennett is bespoke. If you walk by their shop, you can sometimes see people at work in the windows.
Dear Ahren, I don't know these two companies (we've never been to Chicago where, by the way, Enzo Custom has a showroom). On their website, Bennett claim to be "authentic bespoke" tailors (they create the pattern and cut it at home) but it's not entirely made by hand at the place. The suits seem to be sent to a factory in the USA, and finished at their place (button holes, adjustments). So it's "almost bespoke" in my opinion. All my best, Hugo
Lovely to hear India India again and again.. I love formal wear & live in the Gulf. Could you please give me a few options in the South of India (awaiting to do my first ever suit) for my wedding this year. Thanks again! Lovely channel.
I don't think I've seen your bookcase before, I notice it in the background. Do you read much Hugo? I got into reading over the pandemic and it's very fun!
I won a MTM suit a few months ago, that was worth 1000 Swiss Francs ! Pretty happy about it, but I wish I was more informed when making my choice back then.
Hello there, lovely people of Parisian Gentleman. Sorry to miss you in Prague, but happy to hear of my city in your show and that you appreciate craftmanshift of new generation of tailors in Czech republic (who must follow up strong legacy of generation of excelent tailors especially from years 1918 - 1938, years before nazi and communists took over but it is different story). Keep up your great work!
"It's absolutely delicious" - only a Frenchman would think of clothing in those terms. FYI, 2 meters tall is about 6ft 7 inches. Another great video. Those glasses work perfectly with that suit.
could you please make a video for young people such as me that want to get into sartorial world, wether its information or advice or how to or where to start. thanks Sonya and Hugo huge love ❤
There’s already a video called “Moving Up The Sartorial Ladder” which addresses this subject. Start by getting a pair of nice leather shoes, swap your jeans for tailored trousers and your T-shirt for a well fitted shirt and go from there.
I wonder how someone who has never bought a bespoke suit actually make enlightened decisions as to single-breasted vs double-breasted, size of lapel, kinds of pockets, lining and the one hundred other decisions that one makes when buying bespoke. MTM is really the only way to not spend a lot of money and not make crazy mistakes while you are learning about elegance. Excellent video, Hugo!
My wife and i lived in prague for a semester in 2004 (we were not married then). I would love to go back and when we do i will see about stopping by the owners
Would be great if you could explore Oliver Wicks. I have several suits and blazers from them and the quality is exceptional. Made in Europe as well, with fabrics from the top Italian and English mills.
Good afternoon, as far as I know, unlike the sound of the name, Oliver Wicks is a Bulgarian company. I have no experience with Bulgarian factories but it may be decent. The only thing I don't really like at OW is the overall style (narrow lapels), but it's just a matter of taste. If you're happy with their products, you should then stick with them because at the end it's YOUR experience that's counts my friend. All my best wishes, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for replying, Hugo! yes indeed, they are Bulgarian and make their suits in Bulgaria and Portugal. There’s actually a lot of options one can choose from. I always choose extra wide peak lapels for my suits. I have always found their customer support to be wonderful, one of the best I have experienced in the world of online custom clothing. :)
Great video as always classics never die no matter what and bespoke craftsmanship by hand, yet like you said the words are beeing used as marketing trending.
I strongly recommend Salon Hartl in Prague, an institution since 1981. Mr. Hartl is an exquisite gentlemen and the suits I purchased are absolutely fantastic.
Dear Marko, in Italy you have so many that it's difficult for me to advise only one. Actually the young Enzo Carfora (close to Naples) is offering real bespoke for around €2000/€2500. But if you look for something in Austria or Hungary, honestly go to the Owners in Prague. Great salon. Cheers, Hugo
Hi Hugo, I really appreciate your encyclopedic knowledge. Contrary to popular belief Romania has some good bespoke tailoring workshops. It used to have great factories for suits and small tailoring workshops all around in every city, sadly they have been gradually closed!
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hi Hugo, thank you for the reply. I think some worth mentioning are Sarto (the most widely known maybe but I do not think it is the best), Filip Cezar (I really like their cut) and Anton Atelier which I think is the best. I cannot comment on how good they are compared to one another as I haven't worn anything bespoke ever in my life, I only own two blazers made by Chester Barrie, that's how far my sartorial experience goes. Romania also makes the suits for Hackett, especially their Mayfair line but they are not handmade, also there is a good brand for shirts called Braiconf, I would rate them an 6-8/10, yet these are not handmade either and they only do RTW and MTM. One craft that is representative for Romania is the making of traditional hand made rugs, but that is no longer in the sartorial field.
Thanks Hugo and Sonya for another interesting video. You are right MTM is exploding. Do you have any advise for someone why can't actually visit a atiler? Is it worth it still? Or would you suggest an actually visit?
Dear Alexander, with the new technologies (zoom conference, virtual fitting etc.) it os now possible to go MTM without actually visiting in person. But honestly, nothing will replace (if only in termes of human experience) an in-person visit. All my best, Hugo
Greetings from Vietnam. I understand that you're making content primarily for people from Europe and America. But the price brackets depend on where you live. Here we can get true bespoke services and quality for around $2000 or even less. Though I do agree that you need to know where to look because everyone is claiming to be bespoke nowadays while some offer off the rack quality or MTM services only. But once I've developed the "eye" for it it's quite easy to tell when I see quality. Maybe not up to your level of refinement but certainly exceptional from the bunch.
Dear friend, I couldn't agree more. We published an article on this subject on PG a while ago. Here: www.parisiangentleman.com/blog/how-to-find-decent-and-affordable-tailoring-in-south-east-asia All my best regards, as ever, Hugo
Thanks for that helpful video. I live in Vienna and might go to Prag soon. How much is a suit from ‚The Owners‘? I think you forgot to mention that. Thx
Dear friend, a suit at The Owners starts around €800 for a suit. Extremely good value for sure. Call them (dropping my name) in order to confirm the price. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo, I recently had a suit made at suitsupply from paris location. I have to say this is probably the best overall value today. The cost is 75%-80% cheaper than bespoke, and you deal with 80% less bullshit and best of all you have the suit in 2 weeks - instead of 6 months or a year. I have suits from the well known houses in London and Naples, and I can say suitsupply is about 80% of the quality/fit. Yes there is a compromise. But compare paying $1,000 vs $5,000 and wasting 10 hours on fittings/travel. Of course, there is a smaller selection of fabrics, and narrower range of design. The key is to make sure you are dealing with a knowledgeable salesperson there who takes goo measurements. Bespoke is too much hassle. Especially when you take into consideration need to travel for fitting, "language "misunderstandings" etc. Even the highly regarded Savile Row tailors can screw up a suit. I have had this happen TWICE with both AS and HP. The jackets did not fit and had to be scrapped after 4-5 fittings (?!!). A massive waste of time. I think this is because there is a transition to younger tailors happening now, and maybe they don't have enough experience, or they are overloaded with jobs? who knows. At this point, I'd rather have less hassles. I think suitsupply is a winner.
Thank you for this video! Do you happen to know of any good M2M salons for women's suits in the UK/France? I live in the UK and am keen to invest in my first M2M trouser suit, but I'm struggling to find quality places that also cater to female clients. Many thanks in advance for your advice! Carina
Dear Carina, if you can go to Edimburgh then pay a visit to our friends at Walker Slater (you can drop our names of course). Excellent place for ladies, good value and a stellar service : www.walkerslater.com . They mainly do ready-to-wear but I'm sure they also do MTM on request (or RTW with expert alterations). Hope it helps, Sonya says hello. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you so much for your recommendation - it's very much appreciated! I will be sure to visit Walker Slater. I send a big hello back to Sonya - I really admire her style. Many thanks, Carina
Hugo, I would be interested to hear your views about online made to measure, like for example iTailor. I ordered a suit there a couple years ago, my first "proper suit". Charcoal grey with pinstripes. The price is unbeatable (250 euros on that one). On the quality I cannot really comment as I am no expert at all and well I have only worn it once or twice. The reason for that is the fit. It is too small for me, which is a result of doing my own measurements I suppose. It turned out way too small. I got to sell it or give it away sooner or later really, as maybe someone else might be able to fit it. The customer experience made me doubt their legitimacy, but in the end I did get my suit as ordered, in a nice suit bag. Would someone as experienced as you be able to "craft" a good-fitting suit from an online establishment like this?
Dear sir, "online MTM" is always like a lottery (it can turn out well or very badly). iTailor has not the reputation to craft (in China) very good suits, but you get for what you pay. Where do you live my friend? Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS thank you for your incredibly fast reply. I agree with the "you get what you pay" sentiment, after seeing your and Kirby Allison's videos on actual proper garments after buying the suit. So, whilst the suit was not a success, it did get me into the topic and by extent made me become a subscriber of your wonderful channel. I happen to live in the Netherlands. So, yes, I do have access to many better ways of getting a good suit. My current one is a made to fit one (i think that is the right term?) by Only for Men, a fairly standard navy blue suit. To make it more "me" I opted for a gilet to make it a 3 piece. I love it, I love wearing it, but I can't really find many opportunities for wearing a suit. At my job, I do get comments for being overdressed if I wear it. From my perspective, I am just bringing back some style back to the office. I have only this suit, but I intend on buying a next one each year, so this summer I will start looking around. There is too much choice however! First, I need to set my budget, which will probably bring me to made to measure suits. For now I cannot justify a custom made suit as the cost per wear will stay extremely high. Merci beaucoup! I am looking forwards to your videos.
@@engineeronabicycle178 With great pleasure my friend. We know Amsterdam very well as we lived there (on the magnificent Prinseneiland) a few years ago. All the best, Hugo
I would love to know what you think about the American Company Articles of Style. They are an online MTM company, that does one fitting suit. I like what I hear from the company. The marketing is slick, but I am wondering if you have looked into this company?
Dear Arnold, honestly I remember this name as a blog. I didn't even know that they turned into a business. But if I remember well, the author was quite passionate. I'll take a look. Cheers, Hugo
I’ve ordered from them recently. High quality fabrics and when I’ve taken them to a local tailor that’s a family friend . I’ve commissioned custom items from him for my wife he’s been impressed by the outcome of the suits they’ve made for me.
CK is a legend. People in Styleforum would scoff at him but they're just jealous for not looking anywhere as good as the guy. It also proves that you look good in anything if you work out.
Dear Cedric, Dormeuil is a great fabric company. I have no experience with them in the boutique. But these people surely know what they do. Cheers, Hugo
I live in NYC and have looked at both Enzo and CKC for having a suit made. Could you offer any help in deciding where to go? It would be appreciated. Thank you, Bob
I quite literally just sent my trial jacket pictures to Collaro for my first custom suit and then this video pops up. Perfect timing! I completely agree about the tie, Hugo. Our leaders stripping it away is symbolic of stripping away tradition, the old way, and into a new world where our rulers pretend to be as everyone else; but if the top of the hierarchy is so casual, then what will that mean for everyone else? Sad. But at least the world of suits is going back to tradition!
Would love to hear how your experiance with Collaro goes. I just heard about them recently and have wondered what others experiance with them has been like. Best of luck.
@sartorial talks I suspect that in my country tailor produce and cut themselves but only know a couple of patterns. We do one fitting after measurement and price of 500-1000euros . Is this considered bespoke because I don't think it's not under Ur definition of m2m too. Thank you for your content and I enjoy your talent to pass your passion to us!
@@eldritchweather Well if you do have a tailor cutting and sewing your suit at his place entirely by hand, with multiple fittings and a good fit (which is of course the most important), than you're the luckiest man in the Western world...
@@SARTORIALTALKS I certainly feel like that! Thank you for your answer! I do find it difficult to assess the craftsmanship but I certainly enjoy myself! Lots of love from Greece to you and Sonya!
Hi Hugo I know this video is a little old but I always view them because they are so insightful as are the current ones, Ok so a couple of years ago I was in Paris for a few days and I toured around the city but cannot recall the exact areas but if we could say the centre area I recall near a Museum but did notice some tailor shops in that area and my question is this if I was to get sized and fitted for suit,what is time frame on average that a suit is completed ?
I will go for my first MTM suit in the spring of 2023 and I am thinking of going for Lanieri since they have a shop quite close by. Would you recommend this brand?
@@SARTORIALTALKS I have an appointment with them in September, so more to come later. However, I sent you a message on Patreon with more details. Thanks as always Vaz
@@vazmart1560 Thank you my friend. I will look at your message on Patreon asap. All my very best, and many many thanks for your great support. Truly yours, Hugo
Dear Hugo. I actually enjoyed the priviledge of having 3 bespoke suits made for me in my native nation of Mexico ( I visited the tailor for 2 fittings before the suits were made in house). But now I live in Osaka and must confess I am lost …. Do you know any good tailors in Osaka Japan? … maybe Tokyo?
@@SARTORIALTALKS Dear Hugo! Thank you for your kindness in taking the time to share this information with me. Will certainly visit Isetan in Tokyo. Very warm regards from Osaka.
@@abel4776 Sorry, but the tailor I used to visit signed his suits “Arturo” he was quite old then. He had some apprentices, but I couldnt find his business now. His establishment was in Isabel la Catolica ( Centro Historico Ciudad de Mexico) . But there are still some tailors in that area. Some of them are really good and use a good variety of fabrics. The thing is to go there and search. Best Regrds.
Hi Hugo! Is there any tailor you can recommend for bespoke in Switzerland? At the moment I'm simply considering taking the train to Firenze, as it is only 4 hours.
Dear David, I don't know any real bespoke tailors in Switzerland. There are a few MTM salons (made in HK for some of them who overuse the term "bespoke" by the way). I know some famous french tailors (like Cifonelli) often travel to Geneva to fit some clients, but I don't know any local tailoring house. if any of our Swiss readers have suggestions, they are very welcome. All my best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Merci Hugo! I have also had no luck finding any, there is one young chap named Victor Lendoff who has an interesting house style, however his pricing is not reflective of his quality output based on the samples I have seen. Cifonneli is interesting to me, there are many travelling tailors however at this point I need several suits ready within 5 months or so due to a career change and the timeline on most of these is 12-18 months. Thank you for the information!
@@DavakiDnD Can you travel to Italy? I may be able to arrange something faster for you. You can send me an email at hugo@parisiangentleman.fr . I'll be happy to help. cheers, Hugo
Great video as always Hugo :) I wanted to ask though, about the difference between bespoke and made to measure. Do both bespoke and M to M suits have a floating canvas? Or do most M to M tailors fuse the canvas to the fabric? I live in Dubai, and the majority of bespoke and M to M tailors here, even the high end ones, fuse the canvases to the fabric. Thank you for taking the time
The art of canvas structure in suits has been died in most of countries infact has totally replaced by glued construction..india is land of tailoring houses and infact here the canvas suits are also very rare to find its almost next to impossible here
Dear Adham, half canvas is the norm in MTM (or should be the norm for sure). Full canvas is available in most MTM shops (with adding a little bit of money). Glued suits are unknown in good MTM places. As for bespoke, if it's not full canvas, it's not bespoke. All my best, Hugo
Dear Sumit, it's not the case in Europe and in the USA. Glued suits are very rare (thank God) in any MTM shop (and of course totally absent in real bespoke tailoring). Cheers, Hugo
Sir you are the best and my mentor always try to dress like you and i start to wear double breasted suits after watching your videos and my look has been improved alot after following your guidelines
I’m teaching myself to make my own suits & blazers from scratch (as a hobby), from drafting the pattern, choosing the fabrics & guts, to figuring out how to finish with a Milanese button hole. But I have absolutely no tailoring experience, does this still count as bespoke or just “homemade”? 😅
I am in the market for my first bespoke suit. None of the five places I visited that advertises bespoke suits did their own tailoring or anything but the very first measurements. No fitting.
Do you know if there are any "amateur" bespoke tailors? That is.. beginner tailors who are not part of a firm, perhaps do not own a studio, but still provide bespoke suits. They may not be very well made suits... but they are still handmade suits, and designed to the clients specification? I think a movement like that would revolutionise the bepoke industry.. it could build a pyramid up for new tailors so that they don't have to go straight to Savile Row if they want a job. Furthermore I think something like that should be embraced. To walk around in a suit that perhaps doesn't look so good, but is made with love and supports a craftsman who over the years will imrpove, that is what suiting is about! It is about the love of the craft and creativity.
I’ve never been a fan of wearing suits, but this channel has made me rethink that. Thank you for this body of work you have created. Very helpful, I am following your advice now for my early 30’s.
You're welcome and great news Kenneth ! Enjoy the journey. Hugo
Wear the suits! You wont regret it! Youll fall inlove.
I’ve loved dressing ever since I was a little boy and I’m 76, which is why I love your videos.
Thank you so much Walter for your kind words. Truly yours, Hugo
Hi Hugo, love your videos and the information you provide. I’m 60yo, I will be attending my nephew’s wedding in august. I just ordered my first made to measure suit, made to measure shirts , and shoes from Beckett & Simonen. Never too late to change. Im short and have a couple of extra pounds. I’m so excited about having nice clothes that truly fit me.
Imparting your wealth of knowledge is inspirational for both young and old. It's always a great pleasure to listen to you.
Thank you so much my friend for your kind words. Cheers, Hugo
I’m looking to get fitted for my very first MTM suit next Monday. This video came at the perfect time! I always appreciate your advice and insight, Hugo. Regards.
Dear Isai, I'm so glad to read this video will be helpful for you. All my best wishes, Hugo
I didn't know u where into this channel too.
@@heckoff450 Haha😂. It happens sometimes that people who know each other meet also here. That's very agreeable for us. Best regards, Hugo
Hugo is of course correct, but as I tell my customers (I am a style consultant), the person needs to listen to what you are after.
Many MTM consultants will push a customer with a 45minute consult. When you making the appointment ask how long a consult takes.
During the consult, the person should be trying to find out your style and colouring; it's OK if they want you to branch into a different colour or style.
Not all consultants know the difference between a cocktail suit and a dinner suit (which is OK), but if you are comfortable with the person and they are listening to what you are wanting, that is key.
It's also OK to visit several boutiques to find one that's comfortable for you.
Happy hunting.
@@TheEldarGuy Thank you so much David for your precious and very thoughtful comment. All my best, Hugo
I love his Ideology.
A very well spoken gentleman.
Thank you for sharing all that you know!
Even with my strong French accent? Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS just adds more charm!
This is one of the best videos regarding MTM/bespoke tailoring. It helped me with my tailor. Yes, he sais 'bespoke' tailoring (he had a bespoke tailoring atelier, but stopped due to demand and cost). This is where the 'marketing' stopped. He has two places overseas where he sends it to. One in UK other in Eastern europe. He doesn't mention the names, but other than that he's very transparent. He takes even more than 2 hours for you, and does multiple fittings. He's also more expensive than other made-to-measure places, but he's good. He also designed his own shirt collard and does this in collaboration with a well known shirt maker. It's also one of the go-to place for our most well known national etiquette man. So all in all, he's not a bespoke tailor anymore, but had his expertise, and now does the business alone. Long story short.. this video helped me to determine if this place was for me. And luckily, it was. So thank you again mr Jacomet. Your videos has been more than once very helpful. Oh, PS. The tailor also has your books on the shelves, and also was wearing the same socks I had, as seen on your channel (Mes Chachettes Rouge). So it was a great match 🙂
Thank you so much for this video. This update was so helpful for me, and now I have the figure very clear. Blessings for you and Sonya!
Thank you Kevin for your message. We are so happy to read this episode has been useful to you. God bless you my friend, Hugo
Thanks!
Thank you so very much! Hugo
Learn so much in this video, the last part about this world needing beauty and elegance really got me ,haven’t thought about dressing well in that way before…
Thank You so much Giovanni for your kind words. I'm so glad if my last segment has been thought provoking for you. All my best wishes, Hugo
As always, an excellent stream. I really enjoy listening to someone with so much passion about this subject.
Pleasure, David. Thanks a lot for watching. Hugo
Hi Hugo, I just got my first bespoke suit in Romania, 3 fittings, full canvas for 900 eur. Now the result is ok, if I were to grade it would be 8.5/10 (compared to what I see on your channel). Price very much depends on the location.
Thanks Dan. What's the name of the tailoring house/MTM company you ordered from? All my best, Hugo
Roamnia has some good meswear brands and tailors. Care to share the name of the tailor?
I would also be very happy if you share some of the tailors you know in Roumania.
@@Hrbarakov Just type in Costume la Comanda (bespoke suits in Romanian) and see what comes up. I often do that, with many languages :)
Hi Dan! It would be great if you can share the name of the tailor! We are many romanians who are following Hugo! 🙂
I appreciate this video so much. I recently had an underwhelming MTM experience that felt very "rushed" here in the US, and have been looking for some new options.
Dear Khalid, I know some MTM shops are more concerned with making fast money than to do a proper job. Run way from these people and select a proper MTM company like Enzo or CKC. All my best wishes! Hugo
I am so glad that you recommended Enzo in DC. I’m very familiar with the area that they are located in, and it’s easy for me to get to via the subway. I will definitely consider them for my next suit.
That's an excellent idea Joe. Don't hesitate to drop my name, they will be happy to know you came from me. Cheers, Hugo
Greetings from South Korea! Thank you for all of the essential information you enlighten us with! Will be looking forward to all of the upcoming videos 👍
Many thanks June. Greetings from France! Hugo
WOW KOREAN🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
한국인 구독자 형님 뵈니까 너무 반갑습니다!!
My Professor Mr.Jacomet!! I think you should visit Korea soon~😁
@@interpres5895 Dear friend, we were supposed to come to your country in March 2020, but unfortunately this trip was cancelled because of the pandemic. But we'll come to meet the sartorial scene there sooner than later (hopefully). Cheers, Hugo
@@interpres5895 저도 너무 반갑네요^^
40 minutes well spoken without cutting with scissors, a true tailor of words 🙂
You're very kind with me Davide. May I add, without notes and without a teleprompter 😅! All my best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS You're like Samson, your powers are in your silver ring 🙂
@@fashionwiseguy 💪🏻
I'm a big fan of Mr. Cavaliere in Toronto for M2M work. My fitting with him was several hours long, and his knowledge of fitting is great! He also has wonderful fabrics available. Thanks for this video! Your points just reinforced my pleasure with Jon and his work.
Dear Simon, congratulations. Finding a good MTM place is important. All my best wishes, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Definitely! Thanks for all your content, and for your books! I have learned a lot from you!
@@SimonChambers I'm so glad to read this. Many thanks Simon! Hugo
Bonsoir @@SARTORIALTALKS , visiter un atelier ici au Canada ferait une bonne video informative! Grand merci, je n'ai que 23 ans, grâce à vous, et Mr Allison, je me trouve émerveillée avec l'art de la couture et le monde d’élégance discrète!
Hello Hugo!
I’m in love with your suit.
The Color is absolutely perfect!
Kind regards
Nikola
Thank you sir. You can probably find the same at Enzo Custom. Cheers, Hugo
I made some funny sartorial moves in my younger days: buying Marcoliani socks on a student budget, wearing the same pair of Alden Indy boots daily for three years... and somehow thinking it was appropriate to spend $600 on a "custom" (actually questionable MTM) suit, VBC Super 110's. Lessons were learned. My one good decision? Going with Crockett & Jones for my first pair of dress shoes...
It's great that there are high quality videos like this to help out people new to the game! Bravo :)
Thanks my friend. C&J is for sure a safe buy for shoes. All my best, Hugo
Great timing ! Have been thinking of 2 MTM or bespoke (1 formal, 1 winter) this month.
That's a great idea my friend. Where do you live? Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Singapore !
Congratulations on gaining more press coverage of this sartorial mouvement, specialy in France. I'm impatiently waiting for "débat de midi" with France inter ! My best. Ahmed
Merci bcp, Ahmed ! Hugo
As always, a fantastic video! I haven't had a chance to visit Enzo Custom here in NYC yet. When I get closer to buying, I'll pay them a visit. Hopefully in the next few months.
CKC is one I hadn't heard of before but my gosh.... Absolutely STUNNING work! I can see why you like CKC so much... His aesthetic is similar to yours. At first, I was a little taken aback with his pricing. But I remembered when I spec'd out a suit at Enzo Custom with the fabric and options I wanted. It's about the same.
It's funny Hugo.. I find out more about clothing options from you than anyone else here in New York City! Thank you for the information!
I will never tire of thanking you for your immeasurable inspiration, Monsieur.
With great pleasure sir. All my best, Hugo
I am soon buying a new business made to measure suit. I was searching online for advice and opinions and found this. What a great video!
I'm so glad to read this! We hope it will help you choosing the right company for your MTM suit. All my best wishes, Hugo
Fantastic Quality and information as always, I'm very grateful for your efforts and videos about pertinent topics, Hugo and Sonya. Another detail that I've noticed in good quality MTM or custom tailor salons is the Armsyce's height and shape.
The smaller (more flat, horizontal) and higher armholes really tend to signify a better quality MTM salon, and subsequently a better tailor.
Saved me many times.
Can't wait till the next video 👍🏾💪🏾
You're perfectly right my friend. The armsyce's height is also one of my obsession! It can change the all fit of a jacket. Have a blessed Sunday, Hugo
A must see for everyone. Thank you Mr Jacomet. As an MTM style consultant in Australia, I agree with your assessment.
Thanks David, it's important for us that you agree with our assessment. All the best to you, Hugo
Hello Hugo,
great video as always. If I may add a few things that I've learned over the years: 1) there's few things in the sartorial world that show as much variety in terms of quality as MTM tailoring. Learn as much as you can about customers' experiences with any MTM house you're even remotely considering. Some take less than 10 measurements, others more than 20 - that alone tells you a lot!
2) Many MTM brands are very restricted AND very boring in terms of their "house style". Some come up with suits that look like glorified high street products. Wanting to purchase a suit that looks somewhat close to bespoke in terms of style and flair limits your choice.
As for me, my MTM of choice is Maximilian Mogg - many measurements taken, advanced block patterns with loads of possible adjustments, one mandatory fitting plus multiple fittings if needed, very expressive and elegant house style. Mogg is not cheap, but the product still punches way above its price point.
Cheers!
Dear friend, MM is indeed a good option (although not at all in the same price bracket). All my best, Hugo
Hugo, I thought your jacket looked nice until I saw the photos of you standing wearing the full suit. It's looks fantastic. I'm probably returning to Europe in a year or so and I love Prague so I'll definitely choose The Owners as a tailors. And my wife would love to get some tailored clothing too. Thanks for the tip.
With great pleasure. This place in Prague is a great place (and the city is absolutely breath-takin). All my best, Hugo
I live in Prague so I’m really happy you got to visit it. I remember the owner from The Owners working for/with different companies in the past and my experience was not that great compared to what I was used to in the west, but I’m going to trust your judgement and give them a chance. By the way, another great place in Prague is an atelier called The High Cuff. It focuses on casual wear (mostly denim) but it’s fully bespoke, made in Prague by the owner and his staff and the prices are unbelievable (I paid €160 for a pair of bespoke selvedge denim jeans).
And as for food, if you’re here again, I’ll be happy to recommend something to you because the city centre is full of overpriced tourist traps.
Thank you sir for your comment. From what I understand, the people from the Owners decided to open their own shop because they were precisely not happy with the methods and the quality delivered by their former employer. I can testify the quality at their own shop is now very good and the value excellent. Let me know when you have a new experience with them. Cheers, Hugo
Excellent tips. Really help cut through the web clutter of MTM specialists. Thanks you so much.
For future, would love to see one on Vietnam, India and China (well maybe not one but three separate videos).
Thanks for your passion and kindness.
Thank you my friend, All the best, Hugo
Excellent video appreciate the definition and clarification between bespoke and MTM/MTO clothing and the suggestions you offer to assist when deciding on purchasing a made-to-measure suit thanks for sharing
With great pleasure sir! Have a wonderful Sunday. Hugo
I recently scheduled an appointment with Enzo Custom in DC. It was a very nice experience. Not rushed at all. I picked out an olive colored linen fabric. I still have about two weeks before it will be ready for a fitting.
Another made to measure service that deserves mention is Redmayne in the UK. They are upfront on their website about the difference between their bespoke products and made to measure. If you can’t make it to the UK to visit their shop for a fitting, they offer a “suit copying service.” You send them a suit which they use to get your measurements, and they craft a suit in their house style. Both their MTM and suit copying service appear to be pretty reasonable. A 2 piece suit will run about $1360.
Great news about Enzo! If you're able to leave a comment later, let us know about your experience with Redmayne. Cheers and bonne continuation, Hugo
Absolument, this world needs beauty, humility, politeness and respect to one another more then ever. Send you my love i return. ❤
Thank you so much. Warm regards, Hugo
Bonsoir Hugo, I am pretty new to your channel because my taste in clothing is starting to change in the last couple of months.
I faced your channel to start to learn about classic clothing (and tastefull outfits).
All your videos are interesting and full of informations, so I really appriciate them!
I would like to ask you if you can reccomend some brand that produces good quality classical clothing off the shelf or ready to wear jackets and suits.
Big hug from Italy and ansious to see your new videos
Ciao Luca, Boggi is a good brand for off the peg garments in Italy. Cheers, Hugo
Hi Hugo, couple of questions. Based on your classifications how would you classify these two types of shops:
1) you have a pattern made of you, it's your pattern, but the manufacturing is done overseas. Example Sartorial Gallo (sic) in New York, where he sends the pattern to the Italian workshops but the measurements are done in NYC.
2) the shop makes a digital pattern and sends it to an Asian workshop to perform the work.
Good evening, it's MTM as long as it doesn't offer multiple fittings (basted first, then 2 or 3 intermediate fittings). If Eric Jensen (that we know well) is measuring you, drawing your pattern but, much more important, allows multiple fittings (at least 3 if not 4), than it's "almost-bespoke". On the other hand, if he receives the suit all made, and simply perform alterations, then it's MTM, not bespoke. For your second question, it's pure industrial MTM. All my best, Hugo
This is perfect, just what i needed, i always wanted to go to Paris to Howard’s to buy some shirts and now he does Suits, amazing.
Will make an appointment.
Thank you Hugo.
One question, do they speak a little english at Howard’s?
Yes they do. Ask for Frederic Costa (from me). He's the boss and he'll personally take care of you. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS thank you very much , this is great, i will get two suits and some shirts.
Will also buy my first carminas
Love your channel.
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hi Mr Jacomet. I'm a french student in nursing in Indre et Loire, and I'm getting more and more interested in Scavini's suit looking to purchase my first one. Do you have any idea about how much delay I should be expecting if I visit them ? Cause I would imagine they probably have a lot of clients for a suit of this quality for this price bracket.
@@J.c410 Cher JC, téléphonez de ma part à Julien Scavini et demandez lui. Je pense que le délai est de 4 à 6 semaines, mais demandez lui confirmation. Amicalement, Hugo
I got my first bespoke (not MTM) suit when I was 21, that thing was beautiful. I don't know what happened to it though, must have lost it during one of my moves. Now at 38, I think it's time I get me another one.
I agree Atham, it's about time!! All my best wishes, Hugo
Thank you 😎, You are pre-rescuing me from many mistakes.
Hugo, I would be interested to hear your thoughts on Suitsupply MTM. I have several MTM Thomas Mason shirts from them which are life changing. I am very close to going with a VBC made to measure suit!
Suitsupply is great deal for the price but the main "complain" people have is that it is a pretty damn tight fit. For some it is actually a blessing, but it isnt for you if you have a muscular body or if you're overweight
SuitSupply MTM (made in China) is decent, but depending on where you live you may find better service. Cheers, Hugo
Great video, I appreciate your take on the MTM industry. It's interesting about your friend, because I've found that great shirt makers make great tailors if properly trained.
I agree. It's probably because their have a lot of experience with body shapes. Cheers, Hugo
Bravo Hugo and Sonya… Do you have a recommendation for a great tailor based in Singapore? It would be great to see a video that covers suits for Day and Evening wear in hot humid weathers (35 degrees Celsius with 100% humidity) like here in Singapore where the weather is the same all year round. It would be great to hear your expert advice on how to manage sweat and stay dry wearing suits. Have you come across new clothing technology or techniques to keep dry in hot humid weather conditions?
Dear Bob, Kevin Seah in Singapore is the place to go (you can mention our name as he's a good friend of us). Also you have CNES for shoes (incredible value). Concerning the problem of hot humid weather condition, the answer lies in the choice of fabric (like the "Blue Feel" bunch by Drago, 190g, fantastic fabric for hot weather) and in the construction of the jackets (half lined or unstructured). Hope it helps, Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS thanks very much for the recommendation and advice Hugo. Have a great weekend and my best regards to Sonya.
@@brazillionnaire With great pleasure. Have a wonderful week-end too. Hugo
Hi Hugo, I live in Chicago and was curious if you are familiar with Balani or Richard Bennett. Balani is a MTM shop but I believe Richard Bennett is bespoke. If you walk by their shop, you can sometimes see people at work in the windows.
Dear Ahren, I don't know these two companies (we've never been to Chicago where, by the way, Enzo Custom has a showroom). On their website, Bennett claim to be "authentic bespoke" tailors (they create the pattern and cut it at home) but it's not entirely made by hand at the place. The suits seem to be sent to a factory in the USA, and finished at their place (button holes, adjustments). So it's "almost bespoke" in my opinion. All my best, Hugo
This is a fantastic video! Very helpful and thoughtful advice, as always.
Thank you so much for your kind words Davis. All the best to you, as ever. Hugo
Great video, and thanks! Browsing CKC just now, I think they owe you one! I'm pretty sure that you just made them a sale!
Congratulations Brian. Don't hesitate to drop our name, it won't hurt you 😉. Cheers, Hugo
Lovely to hear India India again and again.. I love formal wear & live in the Gulf. Could you please give me a few options in the South of India (awaiting to do my first ever suit) for my wedding this year. Thanks again! Lovely channel.
I don't think I've seen your bookcase before, I notice it in the background. Do you read much Hugo? I got into reading over the pandemic and it's very fun!
I can say I'm a pretty strong reader my friend. Cheers, Hugo
I won a MTM suit a few months ago, that was worth 1000 Swiss Francs ! Pretty happy about it, but I wish I was more informed when making my choice back then.
It's never too late my friend. Next time, you'll be more equipped! All the best, Hugo
Hello there, lovely people of Parisian Gentleman. Sorry to miss you in Prague, but happy to hear of my city in your show and that you appreciate craftmanshift of new generation of tailors in Czech republic (who must follow up strong legacy of generation of excelent tailors especially from years 1918 - 1938, years before nazi and communists took over but it is different story). Keep up your great work!
Sorry to miss you as well, David. Maybe next time. Cheers and thanks ! Hugo
Rasberry is on Hugo's color wheel. This suit flatters you Hugo. Stick to your Winter colors.
"It's absolutely delicious" - only a Frenchman would think of clothing in those terms. FYI, 2 meters tall is about 6ft 7 inches. Another great video. Those glasses work perfectly with that suit.
Thanks Gavin to be my metric/imperial translator! Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Your welcome Hugo. Keep the great content coming.
@hugo Jacomet, You should check Blugiallose suits, a very young and promising brand.
Grateful for the recommendation. Cheers ! Hugo
could you please make a video for young people such as me that want to get into sartorial world, wether its information or advice or how to or where to start. thanks Sonya and Hugo huge love ❤
There’s already a video called “Moving Up The Sartorial Ladder” which addresses this subject. Start by getting a pair of nice leather shoes, swap your jeans for tailored trousers and your T-shirt for a well fitted shirt and go from there.
@@vegard3940 thanks 🤝
Good morning, here you go : th-cam.com/video/GSzhYl34MDg/w-d-xo.html
All the best, Hugo
I wonder how someone who has never bought a bespoke suit actually make enlightened decisions as to single-breasted vs double-breasted, size of lapel, kinds of pockets, lining and the one hundred other decisions that one makes when buying bespoke. MTM is really the only way to not spend a lot of money and not make crazy mistakes while you are learning about elegance. Excellent video, Hugo!
Solid advice. Greetings from Bourgogne. Hugo
My wife and i lived in prague for a semester in 2004 (we were not married then). I would love to go back and when we do i will see about stopping by the owners
Thanks Hugo for these videos. You are my fashion guide.
With great pleasure Abhilash! Cheers, Hugo
Bravo Hugo I respect how you think I have to wear a tie with my customized suit
You're welcome Tay 😉. Cheers, Hugo
Would be great if you could explore Oliver Wicks. I have several suits and blazers from them and the quality is exceptional. Made in Europe as well, with fabrics from the top Italian and English mills.
Good afternoon, as far as I know, unlike the sound of the name, Oliver Wicks is a Bulgarian company. I have no experience with Bulgarian factories but it may be decent. The only thing I don't really like at OW is the overall style (narrow lapels), but it's just a matter of taste. If you're happy with their products, you should then stick with them because at the end it's YOUR experience that's counts my friend. All my best wishes, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for replying, Hugo! yes indeed, they are Bulgarian and make their suits in Bulgaria and Portugal. There’s actually a lot of options one can choose from. I always choose extra wide peak lapels for my suits.
I have always found their customer support to be wonderful, one of the best I have experienced in the world of online custom clothing. :)
I love that suit color Hugo!
Me too! It's called "dusty pink". Cheers, Hugo
Hello Mr. Jacomet, I know you are probably well aware, but that tie is very nice. It brings the suit together well.
Much appreciated, an episode on ties should follow. Cheers, Hugo
Great video as always classics never die no matter what and bespoke craftsmanship by hand, yet like you said the words are beeing used as marketing trending.
Hopefully more and more will be educated to know what these terms actually mean. Yours, Hugo
I strongly recommend Salon Hartl in Prague, an institution since 1981. Mr. Hartl is an exquisite gentlemen and the suits I purchased are absolutely fantastic.
Thanks for the Hartl recommendation. Cheers, Hugo
Dear Hugo! Thank you for the video. Great one, as always. Any recommended MTM salons in Italy/Austria/Hungary that you might know? Thank you. Cheers!
Dear Marko, in Italy you have so many that it's difficult for me to advise only one. Actually the young Enzo Carfora (close to Naples) is offering real bespoke for around €2000/€2500. But if you look for something in Austria or Hungary, honestly go to the Owners in Prague. Great salon. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you Mr. Hugo, I appreciate your advice!
Hi Hugo,
Is there any chance you could recommend some good mtm providers based in the UK? Thank you, Sam.
Hey sir, I believe "Cad and the Dandy" is a good place for MTM. You can drop our names of course. Cheers, Hugo
Thanks I’ll be sure to check them out.
@@oiisam Pleasure
Love your advice.
With great pleasure my friend! Cheers, Hugo
That's a cool suit you have on. Great color.
Thanks my friend. It's by Enzo Custom in the USA. Cheers, Hugo
Hi Hugo, I really appreciate your encyclopedic knowledge. Contrary to popular belief Romania has some good bespoke tailoring workshops. It used to have great factories for suits and small tailoring workshops all around in every city, sadly they have been gradually closed!
I believe you are correct. Any bespoke recommendations from Romania ? Cheers ! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hi Hugo, thank you for the reply. I think some worth mentioning are Sarto (the most widely known maybe but I do not think it is the best), Filip Cezar (I really like their cut) and Anton Atelier which I think is the best. I cannot comment on how good they are compared to one another as I haven't worn anything bespoke ever in my life, I only own two blazers made by Chester Barrie, that's how far my sartorial experience goes. Romania also makes the suits for Hackett, especially their Mayfair line but they are not handmade, also there is a good brand for shirts called Braiconf, I would rate them an 6-8/10, yet these are not handmade either and they only do RTW and MTM. One craft that is representative for Romania is the making of traditional hand made rugs, but that is no longer in the sartorial field.
Thanks Hugo and Sonya for another interesting video. You are right MTM is exploding. Do you have any advise for someone why can't actually visit a atiler? Is it worth it still? Or would you suggest an actually visit?
Dear Alexander, with the new technologies (zoom conference, virtual fitting etc.) it os now possible to go MTM without actually visiting in person. But honestly, nothing will replace (if only in termes of human experience) an in-person visit. All my best, Hugo
Greetings from Vietnam. I understand that you're making content primarily for people from Europe and America. But the price brackets depend on where you live. Here we can get true bespoke services and quality for around $2000 or even less. Though I do agree that you need to know where to look because everyone is claiming to be bespoke nowadays while some offer off the rack quality or MTM services only. But once I've developed the "eye" for it it's quite easy to tell when I see quality. Maybe not up to your level of refinement but certainly exceptional from the bunch.
Dear friend, I couldn't agree more. We published an article on this subject on PG a while ago. Here: www.parisiangentleman.com/blog/how-to-find-decent-and-affordable-tailoring-in-south-east-asia
All my best regards, as ever, Hugo
Finally an updated video!
Yes my friend, we are back. More than ever. Cheers, Hugo
Thanks for that helpful video. I live in Vienna and might go to Prag soon. How much is a suit from ‚The Owners‘? I think you forgot to mention that. Thx
Dear friend, a suit at The Owners starts around €800 for a suit. Extremely good value for sure. Call them (dropping my name) in order to confirm the price. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo, I recently had a suit made at suitsupply from paris location. I have to say this is probably the best overall value today. The cost is 75%-80% cheaper than bespoke, and you deal with 80% less bullshit and best of all you have the suit in 2 weeks - instead of 6 months or a year. I have suits from the well known houses in London and Naples, and I can say suitsupply is about 80% of the quality/fit. Yes there is a compromise. But compare paying $1,000 vs $5,000 and wasting 10 hours on fittings/travel. Of course, there is a smaller selection of fabrics, and narrower range of design. The key is to make sure you are dealing with a knowledgeable salesperson there who takes goo measurements. Bespoke is too much hassle. Especially when you take into consideration need to travel for fitting, "language "misunderstandings" etc. Even the highly regarded Savile Row tailors can screw up a suit. I have had this happen TWICE with both AS and HP. The jackets did not fit and had to be scrapped after 4-5 fittings (?!!). A massive waste of time. I think this is because there is a transition to younger tailors happening now, and maybe they don't have enough experience, or they are overloaded with jobs? who knows. At this point, I'd rather have less hassles. I think suitsupply is a winner.
Thank you for this video! Do you happen to know of any good M2M salons for women's suits in the UK/France? I live in the UK and am keen to invest in my first M2M trouser suit, but I'm struggling to find quality places that also cater to female clients. Many thanks in advance for your advice! Carina
Dear Carina, if you can go to Edimburgh then pay a visit to our friends at Walker Slater (you can drop our names of course). Excellent place for ladies, good value and a stellar service : www.walkerslater.com . They mainly do ready-to-wear but I'm sure they also do MTM on request (or RTW with expert alterations). Hope it helps, Sonya says hello. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you so much for your recommendation - it's very much appreciated! I will be sure to visit Walker Slater. I send a big hello back to Sonya - I really admire her style. Many thanks, Carina
Hugo, I would be interested to hear your views about online made to measure, like for example iTailor.
I ordered a suit there a couple years ago, my first "proper suit". Charcoal grey with pinstripes. The price is unbeatable (250 euros on that one). On the quality I cannot really comment as I am no expert at all and well I have only worn it once or twice. The reason for that is the fit. It is too small for me, which is a result of doing my own measurements I suppose. It turned out way too small. I got to sell it or give it away sooner or later really, as maybe someone else might be able to fit it.
The customer experience made me doubt their legitimacy, but in the end I did get my suit as ordered, in a nice suit bag.
Would someone as experienced as you be able to "craft" a good-fitting suit from an online establishment like this?
Dear sir, "online MTM" is always like a lottery (it can turn out well or very badly). iTailor has not the reputation to craft (in China) very good suits, but you get for what you pay. Where do you live my friend? Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS thank you for your incredibly fast reply. I agree with the "you get what you pay" sentiment, after seeing your and Kirby Allison's videos on actual proper garments after buying the suit.
So, whilst the suit was not a success, it did get me into the topic and by extent made me become a subscriber of your wonderful channel.
I happen to live in the Netherlands. So, yes, I do have access to many better ways of getting a good suit.
My current one is a made to fit one (i think that is the right term?) by Only for Men, a fairly standard navy blue suit. To make it more "me" I opted for a gilet to make it a 3 piece. I love it, I love wearing it, but I can't really find many opportunities for wearing a suit.
At my job, I do get comments for being overdressed if I wear it. From my perspective, I am just bringing back some style back to the office.
I have only this suit, but I intend on buying a next one each year, so this summer I will start looking around. There is too much choice however! First, I need to set my budget, which will probably bring me to made to measure suits. For now I cannot justify a custom made suit as the cost per wear will stay extremely high.
Merci beaucoup! I am looking forwards to your videos.
@@engineeronabicycle178 With great pleasure my friend. We know Amsterdam very well as we lived there (on the magnificent Prinseneiland) a few years ago. All the best, Hugo
Can you please show us how you tie your necktie?
I would love to know what you think about the American Company Articles of Style. They are an online MTM company, that does one fitting suit. I like what I hear from the company. The marketing is slick, but I am wondering if you have looked into this company?
Dear Arnold, honestly I remember this name as a blog. I didn't even know that they turned into a business. But if I remember well, the author was quite passionate. I'll take a look. Cheers, Hugo
I’ve ordered from them recently. High quality fabrics and when I’ve taken them to a local tailor that’s a family friend . I’ve commissioned custom items from him for my wife he’s been impressed by the outcome of the suits they’ve made for me.
CK is a legend. People in Styleforum would scoff at him but they're just jealous for not looking anywhere as good as the guy. It also proves that you look good in anything if you work out.
Hi Hugo and Sonya, what is your experience with Dormeuil Boutique Paris?
Dear Cedric, Dormeuil is a great fabric company. I have no experience with them in the boutique. But these people surely know what they do. Cheers, Hugo
I live in NYC and have looked at both Enzo and CKC for having a suit made. Could you offer any help in deciding where to go? It would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Bob
I quite literally just sent my trial jacket pictures to Collaro for my first custom suit and then this video pops up. Perfect timing!
I completely agree about the tie, Hugo. Our leaders stripping it away is symbolic of stripping away tradition, the old way, and into a new world where our rulers pretend to be as everyone else; but if the top of the hierarchy is so casual, then what will that mean for everyone else? Sad.
But at least the world of suits is going back to tradition!
Thank you Demetrios for your message. All my best, Hugo
Would love to hear how your experiance with Collaro goes. I just heard about them recently and have wondered what others experiance with them has been like. Best of luck.
What is your opinion of Orazio Luciano MTM (e.g. through the Armoury NYC) for $3500? It's all handwork, but is that an acceptable price for MTM?
Belle combinaison des couleurs du costume et de la cravate Monsieur Jacomet, la chemise blanche donne un look impeccable. Bénédictions.
Merci beaucoup Stefhano! Amicalement, Hugo
@sartorial talks I suspect that in my country tailor produce and cut themselves but only know a couple of patterns. We do one fitting after measurement and price of 500-1000euros . Is this considered bespoke because I don't think it's not under Ur definition of m2m too.
Thank you for your content and I enjoy your talent to pass your passion to us!
Dear Alex, which country are you talking about? Because full bespoke for the price range you mention seems almost impossible. All the best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS I'm from Greece ( I didn't include fabric costs)
@@eldritchweather Well if you do have a tailor cutting and sewing your suit at his place entirely by hand, with multiple fittings and a good fit (which is of course the most important), than you're the luckiest man in the Western world...
@@SARTORIALTALKS I certainly feel like that! Thank you for your answer! I do find it difficult to assess the craftsmanship but I certainly enjoy myself! Lots of love from Greece to you and Sonya!
@@eldritchweather Dear friend, if you enjoy yourself, than all is good! Much love from France, Hugo
Hi Hugo I know this video is a little old but I always view them because they are so insightful as are the current ones, Ok so a couple of years ago I was in Paris for a few days and I toured around the city but cannot recall the exact areas but if we could say the centre area I recall near a Museum but did notice some tailor shops in that area and my question is this if I was to get sized and fitted for suit,what is time frame on average that a suit is completed ?
Excellent video.
If you you don't mind sir could you speak how many tailors work in your company
Merci! That was super useful!
I will go for my first MTM suit in the spring of 2023 and I am thinking of going for Lanieri since they have a shop quite close by. Would you recommend this brand?
Sure it's a great company with excellent value. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you very much
@@hmswarspite1064 Very welcome sir.
Hi Hugo,
Thank you so much for the great content. You are such an inspiration.
Do you have any experience with Alan David Custom in NYC?
Thanks
Good evening sir, no we never heard about this company. Any thoughts to share about them? Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS
I have an appointment with them in September, so will share my thoughts once I have a first hand experience with them.
Cheers
Vaz
@@SARTORIALTALKS
I have an appointment with them in September, so more to come later.
However, I sent you a message on Patreon with more details.
Thanks as always
Vaz
@@vazmart1560 Thank you my friend. I will look at your message on Patreon asap. All my very best, and many many thanks for your great support. Truly yours, Hugo
Hugo do you have any recommendations in Canada, Vancouver in particular?
Great point, we will try to include Canada in future videos/writings. Cheers! Hugo
Dear Hugo. I actually enjoyed the priviledge of having 3 bespoke suits made for me in my native nation of Mexico ( I visited the tailor for 2 fittings before the suits were made in house). But now I live in Osaka and must confess I am lost …. Do you know any good tailors in Osaka Japan? … maybe Tokyo?
Dear friend, just go to Isetan in Tokyo and you'll find dozens of possibilities. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Dear Hugo! Thank you for your kindness in taking the time to share this information with me. Will certainly visit Isetan in Tokyo. Very warm regards from Osaka.
@@abel4776 Sorry, but the tailor I used to visit signed his suits “Arturo” he was quite old then. He had some apprentices, but I couldnt find his business now. His establishment was in Isabel la Catolica ( Centro Historico Ciudad de Mexico) . But there are still some tailors in that area. Some of them are really good and use a good variety of fabrics. The thing is to go there and search. Best Regrds.
Hi, how about MTM in Singapore?
Yes of course. Contact our friends at Yeossal here: www.yeossal.com
Cheers, Hugo
Hi Hugo!
Is there any tailor you can recommend for bespoke in Switzerland? At the moment I'm simply considering taking the train to Firenze, as it is only 4 hours.
Dear David, I don't know any real bespoke tailors in Switzerland. There are a few MTM salons (made in HK for some of them who overuse the term "bespoke" by the way). I know some famous french tailors (like Cifonelli) often travel to Geneva to fit some clients, but I don't know any local tailoring house. if any of our Swiss readers have suggestions, they are very welcome. All my best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Merci Hugo! I have also had no luck finding any, there is one young chap named Victor Lendoff who has an interesting house style, however his pricing is not reflective of his quality output based on the samples I have seen. Cifonneli is interesting to me, there are many travelling tailors however at this point I need several suits ready within 5 months or so due to a career change and the timeline on most of these is 12-18 months.
Thank you for the information!
@@DavakiDnD Can you travel to Italy? I may be able to arrange something faster for you. You can send me an email at hugo@parisiangentleman.fr . I'll be happy to help. cheers, Hugo
Would love some time stamps
Dear Rong, there are time stamps my friend. Just look again. Cheers, Hugo
Great video as always Hugo :) I wanted to ask though, about the difference between bespoke and made to measure.
Do both bespoke and M to M suits have a floating canvas? Or do most M to M tailors fuse the canvas to the fabric?
I live in Dubai, and the majority of bespoke and M to M tailors here, even the high end ones, fuse the canvases to the fabric.
Thank you for taking the time
The art of canvas structure in suits has been died in most of countries infact has totally replaced by glued construction..india is land of tailoring houses and infact here the canvas suits are also very rare to find its almost next to impossible here
Dear Adham, half canvas is the norm in MTM (or should be the norm for sure). Full canvas is available in most MTM shops (with adding a little bit of money). Glued suits are unknown in good MTM places. As for bespoke, if it's not full canvas, it's not bespoke. All my best, Hugo
Dear Sumit, it's not the case in Europe and in the USA. Glued suits are very rare (thank God) in any MTM shop (and of course totally absent in real bespoke tailoring). Cheers, Hugo
Sir you are the best and my mentor always try to dress like you and i start to wear double breasted suits after watching your videos and my look has been improved alot after following your guidelines
@@sumittiwari1387 Congratulations dear Sumit and many thanks for your kind words. Yours, Hugo
I’m teaching myself to make my own suits & blazers from scratch (as a hobby), from drafting the pattern, choosing the fabrics & guts, to figuring out how to finish with a Milanese button hole.
But I have absolutely no tailoring experience, does this still count as bespoke or just “homemade”? 😅
Likely handmade, but of course as you progress this appellation could be upgraded. Congratulations and bon continuation ! Hugo
I am in the market for my first bespoke suit. None of the five places I visited that advertises bespoke suits did their own tailoring or anything but the very first measurements. No fitting.
Do you know if there are any "amateur" bespoke tailors? That is.. beginner tailors who are not part of a firm, perhaps do not own a studio, but still provide bespoke suits. They may not be very well made suits... but they are still handmade suits, and designed to the clients specification? I think a movement like that would revolutionise the bepoke industry.. it could build a pyramid up for new tailors so that they don't have to go straight to Savile Row if they want a job.
Furthermore I think something like that should be embraced. To walk around in a suit that perhaps doesn't look so good, but is made with love and supports a craftsman who over the years will imrpove, that is what suiting is about! It is about the love of the craft and creativity.
I hear you my friend, but I hope more and more young people will enter this craft with passion and dedication. All my best, Hugo
Other than Reiss, does anyone know of other off-the-rack suit brands with working buttons?
Dear Matt, working buttons on RTW are easy to open with a good alteration tailor. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Good to know. Thank you, Hugo.
@@OngoGablogian185 You're welcome my friend.
Thank you.
You are very welcome Joyce. Best, Hugo
I wish I could meet this guy. He and is wife is such a cool couple.
Where do you live Jacob? Because we travel a lot for "meet and greet" events around the world. All our best, Hugo & Sonya