Your First Custom Suit(s): How to Choose and What to Expect?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- In this new episode of Sartorial Talks, recorded at The Owners in Prague (Czech Republic), Hugo and his guests, Michal and Matēj, explain how to choose your first Made-to-Measure suit(s) and provide advice and guidance on how to make this first experience a success.
Which type of suit should you start with? With which kind of fabric? What to choose if you're on a budget? Two piece, Three piece? How to mix and match your jackets , waistcoats (vests)and trousers?
They also dedicate a segment to Women's custom suiting, one of the specialities of this MTM company in Prague.
The Owners Instagram page: / theowners.cz
The Owners Website: linktr.ee/theo...
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Hugo is one of the only guys in the world who looks amazing in a yellow suit!
Haha you're very kind Justus, but it's not that difficult to pull off when it's nicely done (like this one by The Owners in Prague). Best wishes, Hugo
And Jep Gambardela (Toni Servillo)
@@alinobikis194 La Grande Bellezza
Actually, Sonny Crocket and I had him beat in the late 80's, sorry Hugo, nice try! LOL.
@@supersonique001 LOL
I'm still in my early 20s and started my sartorial journey with SuitSupply and Lanieri. After this video, I will definitely add The Owners to my list since I live near the Czech border in Germany.
Great video as always, Hugo! Thanks for being such a great inspiration.
Congratulations my friend. And you should definitely pay a visit to the Owners. Great team with excellent taste. Cheers, Hugo
You can check Cavalier. That is a good MTM shop in Prague as well. I have got the best service there. Prices are very competitive and the result was stunning. They tailor suits in Italy and they will guide you throughout the whole process. I had one meeting and one adjusting session everything else I could do online because I lived in Denmark that time.
Of course they have fabrics like Scabal, Dormeuil, Loro Piana and so on.
I'm glad that Romania was mentioned! Even though we are far from a perfect country, there are quality tid-bits that we can pride ourselves on! Cheers!
Of course. One of the most famous factories for MTM is from Romania. All my best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Do you know where it is located? I wonder if they would be open enough to do a guided tour. Thanks for the reply and I hope you have a wonderful weekend!
@@cosmingosav It's FORMENS, Cal. Nationala, 30C, 710010, Botoșani 710001, Roumanie
Thank you very much, Hugo, Sonya and everyone involved in this amazing movement.
Something interesting happened to me when I went to get my first MTM suit, which was for my wedding (I am 28 y.o): I showed the tailor a photo of you wearing a blue suit, with wide lapels and the tailor totally recognized you and told me he also loves your channel. That was something pretty unexpected, because here in Bolivia is not common to properly dress up.
Blessings for all you.
Oh thank you so much Kevin for this beautiful (and flattering) story. Blessings to you and your beloved ones. Hugo
I am having my first M2M suit measured in 2 weeks. I will find this episode very useful. Thank you all.
You're very welcome sir. Cheers and enjoy! Hugo
I notice your comment was 2 weeks ago - have you got it???
I love how you support and feature the up and coming sartorial community members giving everyone equal opportunity to thrive and be prosperous in their craft. Bravo!
We consider it our duty of course. All my best, Hugo
Hugo is such an inspiration I am beginning a journey to start my own M2M service, visiting clients here in Scotland to offer them fine Italian tailored suits.
Thank you Hugo for your inspiration.
Congratulations Ian! Yours Aye! Hugo
I have just picked up my first order made at The Owners yesterday. The quality is exceptional and the service provided by Michal and Matěj is excellent. Overall great experience, definetely will visit them soon to futher expand my wardrobe. Highly recommended.
Thank you Andrej for sharing your feedback. Very much appreciated! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS My pleasure, Hugo. Thank You for Your work. Cheers to Paris!
Hugo as much as I love your attire what I want to emulate is your mannerism.
Thanks my friend, that's very kind! Hugo
Après avoir vu et revu les épisodes des discussions sartoriales, j'apprends l'anglais avec Sartorial Talks. Merci Monsieur Jacomet.
I love the way they interact with hugo becouse hugo is deep sartorial lover so he express himself in very unique way some of people just come here for promotional basis not really interact much
The people at The Owners are great people. Very passionate and sincere. All my best, Hugo
So hard to wear yellow, especially a shade of yellow so light and bright but your killing it Hugo. Good to see you using and promoting good made to measure which is going to be the go to for so many of us.
Thanks Gavin for your kind words. MTM is indeed a great way to support our little sartorial movement and to give access to more people to the magic world of sartorialism. Best, Hugo
The lapels on your coat are perfection.So many seem too high,with the lapel points peaking at or over the shoulder,making one appear as a frantic bird
Having followed Hugo for a long time , Yesterday i finally found time to take the tgv to Paris , where I entered suit supply … I thought i had died and went to heaven
Spent a few hours looking , touching fabrics , talking with the staff and just not allowing myself to get ahead of things .
Picked up one nice grey Havana suit and ordered a beautiful dark charcoal with subtle stripe demi mesure suit . I wear a suit everyday for work and these purchases are purely for personal or social reasons .
Thank You Hugo for all your advise and information .
The only comments i would make are : take time to adjust to the choices and keep to a simple style with subtle tweaks .
: I found the store’s artificial lighting made it difficult to see the fabrics real details and tones . I took everything outside onto the terrasse to look in natural light .
Train Dijon - Paris A / R and a good hole in my credit card but worth every penny
I miss so much videos from last year. What an amazing episode. Thank you.
I absolutely love my bespoke charcoal grey suit but now I'm having a navy one made just as Hugo advised. Hopefully not long after, I will make a three piece as well.
Love the pale-yellow DB suit Hugo! Reminds me of my own one which I wore quite a bit in the 90s and still wear in summer or in the Caribbean, it's a 'killer' statement! Brio!
Thank you sir! Cheers, Hugo
Great video Hugo,amazing advice for the younger men.My first MTM suit was dark blue,mini herringbone.I still have it after more than 10 years😁
You made the right decision then. All the best, Hugo
What a lovely suit hugo.
Thanks for the video. Much joy and abundance to you guys
Thanks you very much! Warm regards, Hugo & Sonya
Hugo, your choice of necktie is excellent for your yellow suit.
Thank you Jeffrey! Cheers, Hugo
So now we hear ‘Yellow’ by Coldplay in our heads the whole day, and it will make us happy.
Hear hear!
That's a good way to look at it dear Arent Jan. Cheers, Hugo
Fantastic! May Michal and Matēj succeed and flourish in their endeavours to clothe men and women elegantly x
Tony
p.s Hugo: I love your yellow suit :-)
Thanks Tony for your kind words of encouragement. They deserve it! Cheers, Hugo
PS: They made this yellow suit for me.
The shoulders are spot on. That suit looks amazing on you Maestro
Congrats Hugo on the yellow suit. You can see that the colour selected and the texture really does add a pop to the suit.
Does this mean that we might see Sonya's latest addition soon as well in an up coming episode?
Yes Alexander. We did record an episode with Sonya in Prague. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS brilliant. I will attempt to pursuede the wife to watch it with me. Even if she doesn't get interested in classic style at least she will understand the reasoning.
Great episode. I'm definitely ordering a suit from those guys when I return to Europe.
You'll not be disappointed. All my best, Hugo
Bossing the Yellow suit Hugo .As per usual another great talk .Coming into winter you will be putting on the overcoats .
I have a Milan leather one that I have had for 25 years .Very heavy but love wearing it in the cold of Glasgow.
Look forward to the next with you and your beautiful wife .God Bless both .
David...
SLANJ..
Thanks David! God bless you my friend. Yours Aye, Hugo
I just ordered my first Made to Measure suit. Can't wait!!!!!!
I have to say Hugo is rocking that Yellow Suit with confidence, elegance of style and it just looks damn fantastic. I notice how the Tie matches as well 🤔 just studying the look. Always a thanks in these interviews to just show us something in your style or how it’s worn, we do observe and take mental notes. As well appreciate the guests of their craft and their recommendations as well how you can change look with matching vest. I like your recommendation of how to turn a suit jacket into a blazer/sports jacket over time. These are nuggets of style knowledge that are good to hear and know. Thanks for the constant learning of these interviews.
Very interesting the position of the guest about the reasons why choose Portugal!
Love the inclusivity of both mens and womenswear! I will definitely be making a visit.
I also love the yellow color you chose. We have similar coloring and I have always avoided yellows but this is changing my mind…
You should definitely pay them a visit Kat. Veronica is a very talented woman. Best regards, Hugo & Sonya
Thank you Hugo.
You're very welcome Jay! All my best, Hugo
Your yellow suit....wonderful 4 the spring/ summer 2023..love it!!!!!CHEERS!!!!!!
Once you go bespoke, MTM or MTO there's no going back to ready to wear and each tailoring experience is different. For me, my favorite and best fitting suits are MTM from Orazio Luciano...their's fit me better than a bespoke from Cifonelli. Thanks, Hugo, for another informative video. Cheers!
The work of Orazio (and his son Pino) is great of course! Cheers my friend, Hugo
Gorgeous approach to women’s suits.
The yellow suit is great! I wouldn't mind one myself maybe a wool linen or pure linen in yellow
Yellow is great for the summer Jason! Cheers, Hugo
Beautiful conversation to hear .
Prague is a gorgeous city and Czech Rep a jewel of Europe. Meilleurs voeux de Roumanie.
Merci beaucoup mon ami ! Cheers, Hugo
Excellente vidéo Hugo, hâte de faire votre connaissance la semaine prochaine !
Avec joie cher Tony ! Hugo& Sonya
I'm glad you asked for a comment on your suit. I didn't know if it was my imagination or not. But when I was looking at your shoulders I thought to myself I wonder if that is a suit off of the rack? Anyways the color is very nice and the fit also is very nice on you. This is not a insult, this is a compliment. It left me wondering if it was made to order or handmade. And I noticed that the gentleman on the right of the screen has a tailored coat on. 🙂 Keep up the good work. May God bless you and your family.
That yellow suit is magnificent!
Many thanks Henry! Cheers, Hugo
Τhe suit in that creme yellow is sick!
Suit matches very well with your watch 👌
Thanks Koji! Cheers, Hugo
Thanks for the videos and satorial education.
You are very welcome Sandile! Cheers, Hugo
Bonsoir, je viens de suivre votre intervention sur Cnews. Impeccable.
The yellow suit is indeed elegant, im surprised that is not worn in mediterran place Syracuse italy or even Côte d'Azur France but for Prague but nevertheless still looks good. Keep up the good work Hugo all your videos have been inspirational and educational.
Dear Mars, I wear it in Prague because I took delivery of it during our visit for the show (as it's been made by the Owners). Warm regards, Hugo
Just dropped in to view and say I love this channel.
You look extra elegant in those beautiful colours Hugo. M.
Thank you my friend! Hugo
Hi Hugo,
I am still in torn between Lanieri (half canvas unfortunately they don’t offer full canvas option yet) and RTW pini parma. I heard a lot of good stuff regarding pini in which I am also considering their MTM service, I’m going to be in Paris next month.
Cheers
Well both of them are good. Pini MTM will be more expensive. But his RTW is excellent of course. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo I love your unique yellow suit! it reminds me of yellow Laffy taffy. Love It
Laffy taffy are candies right?
@@SARTORIALTALKS The best.
@@HMuny55 Lol
This is an excellent choice.
A propos, I would like to add Jack Nicholson's entrancing appearance in a yellow jacket & black shirt from a scene of the film "Prizzi's Honour" by J. Huston (1985), in a romantic sequence with K. Turner, which made sensation.
I don't know this film but I will surely check it. All my best, Hugo
In the US, MTM is becoming more and more important because RTW lines are shrinking the range of available sizes. As a heavier guy, I can no longer go into Brooks Brothers, JPRESS or Ralph Lauren and find a suit or sports jacket and trousers in my size. And with prices of quality RTW near that of MTM, why wouldn’t you do MTM?
Too bad that the Czech Republic isn’t more accessible for me, but fortunately you steered me to Enzo Custom in your earlier videos. I have a great fitting linen summer suit from them, as well as charcoal gray flannel trousers, and a second pair of trousers is on the way.
Great news Joe, Enzo Custom is a great company. Best regards, Hugo
When I eventually get a MTM suit I'll probably ask for two pairs of trousers made to make them last longer!
That's very wise indeed Aaron. I personally always do this. Cheers, Hugo
Thanks for this. I prefer to patronize a shop where the production occurs in the same place as the measuring, i.e, under the same roof (or at least in the same town), not exported to another country. We have to change our system to not be transporting every little thing 3,000 km back and forth, burning benzine, kerosene, etc. I understand that if one is on a budget, that this can be difficult to afford.
Dear Jef, what you are talking about is Bespoke, which is more and more rare these days and absolutely not comparable in terms of craft and budget (probably 5X if not 7X). The idea here is to open the door to the sartorial world to the young generation who will become, down the road, clients for traditional bespoke ateliers. It's a long term view. All my best, Hugo
Great episode. Very nice gentleman and reasonable prices. I will have to go see them when I visit Prague. BTW you should do an episode on your yellow suit. Who did you work with, how you chose the color, fabric and details? Also, how do you wear it and people’s reactions. You look very happy they say yellow is a welcoming color. Your suit reminds me of a drawing from apparel arts of a “ light tan” gabardine suit ( although it has the appearance of butter yellow). I could see you in the French Riviera wearing this suit without a tie.
The suit is magnificent!!
Thank you! Cheers, Hugo
Hi guys, can you please show us Sonias suit? 🙏 Can you also tell us how many fittings it takes before you can pick up your suit? Need to plan my trip to Prag ✈. 😁 Thank's in advance.
Dear Sabrina, follow Sonya on her Instagram (@sonyaglyn) and you should see the blazer soon. As for the process, you basically only need one visit (for measurements and fabric choice) and they'll send it to you (they are very precise at the measurements). Two visits is of course better (in case some minor alterations are needed) but not mandatory. Give them a call, and they will advise you. Cheers, Hugo
what a great and informative video!
Thank you very much! Best regards, Hugo
As the jacket lasts longer than trousers it may be a good idea to buy 1 jacket and 2 trousers.
Great video - we should empower much more the middle and eastern European countries and their great entrepreneurs!
We agree Christian, and that's precisely why we already featured tailors and clothiers from Slovakia, Czech Republic, Germany and soon other countries. Best wishes, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS I remember! Have a nice weekend - Sonya and you!
Regards from Brazil 🇧🇷
I hope you have Vienna for future visits on your list
Dear Markus, we've been to Vienna twice already. And I believe we met pretty much all the tailors there. Cheers, Hugo
Dear Mr Jacomet, you look great with that suit. I understand that not everyone can look good with something, but you absolutely look very sharp, congratulations, and I have always admired the way you dress.
Thank you David for your kind words. Actually I believe many people could pull off this kind of colours, but sometimes they just don't dare. Have a nice weekend! Hugo
There is a very lovely bespoke firm in Bratislava that I wish you could have the chance to try and advocate for.
Can you please leave some info? I’d really be interested. Thanks!
Dear Friedrich, you probably speak about Maximilian Mucska. We know this bespoke family very well and we already featured them in this episode: th-cam.com/video/SrRjRW_AB10/w-d-xo.html
Best! Hugo & Sonya
I think a darker grey (not charcoal) is a better choice than navy. Grey is more versatile of a colour when it comes to colour coordinating.
Navy is more youthful, certainly. But at the same time, navy is a bit too dark and in my opinion, doesn't look great with black or other very dark colours.
Since grey is less youthful than navy, a slightly lighter shade will work just fine as an evening-wear!
Also, navy will tend to fade faster compared to a grey that's a bit lighter in shade
Thanks Hugo .
I’m turning 40 next year and I’m going to treat myself to a bespoke suit .This info has been helpful.
Any recommendations in savile row ?
Good evening! Take a look at this episode: th-cam.com/video/4AFKxdm8aj0/w-d-xo.html
Hope it helps, Cheers, Hugo
Hmmm that yellow suit on Hugo ✅ I have seen this only with Congolese sapeur/Dandies of Central Africa
Maybe one day we should organise a meeting with the Sapeurs then! Cheers, Hugo
Great Content as always! Since I've been following your Channel for quite some time I am consequently working to get my Wife interested in the real Sartorial World beside the usual Ready-to-Wear Stuff. From my perspective it seems much more difficult to get access to quality Womens MTM compared to Mens. I would love to see you do a more detailed contribution especially to womens MTM and your personal advice where to start with.
Thank you and kind regards from Germany
Dear Hugo and Sonya, I am a big fan of yours! I have a question not immediately related to the topic of today's video, but I hope you will be so kind as to answer. I remember you once mentioned a leather cream you would particularly recommend, but I cannot recall the name. Could you please help me?
Good morning. I am in my 20s and am a full time university student based in London, England. I was struggling to find a good brand of suits to invest into. I have a good collection of shirts from Charles Trywhitt but now am looking for the rest of the outfit, thank you.
Have the two by any chance told you about a Czech musician and entertainer Dan Nekonecny? He was famous for wearing yellow all the time.
Dear Vegard, they didn't but I will certainly take a look. All my best, Hugo
Amazing suit, though this colour is truly for advanced and self confidant . Great episodes and great value suits
Thank you Gad! Yours, Hugo
Thank you so much for your very informative and educational videos. I’m seeking guidance on shoes, even though this video is not related to shoes. I have a high arch and it took a bit of time to find the right shoes, well at least comfortable. The shoes are Alden Modified Last (you’ve mentioned Alden brand I’m your videos). The last is narrow in the heel with a high instep which provides greater control and support through the rear & mid-foot. The front of the last allows the big toe to lie straight with a broad flare around the pinkie toe providing greater width and space for the toes. I get the shoes from the only place I can buy them from, the molded shoes shop in New York City, where I live.
I would be most genuinely grateful if you could share names of some other Brands that make a similar type shoe. That would allow me to have some more options. In the past I’ve worn shoes like Ferragamo but always experienced either front of foot and/or back pain. So now I only wear Alden Modified Last, which I can find only in one store and with limited styles/models.
Kindly-
Dear Sonya&Hugo, is There any "manifesto" that express the essence of this "movement" of yours?
You'll find many texts on our blog parisian gentleman. Actually the most recent ones in French are all about this Sartorial Uprising. Cheers, Hugo
Doesn't the vest size gets considered in the cut size of the suit so suit fit without the vest would be bit loose ?
Good question Mahmoud, when they measure you they will of course consider this. Normally when you wear a vest, you can leave your jacket unbuttoned. And buttoned without a vest. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo, thank you for your informative videos! My husband is interested in getting bespoke suits made and he loves vintage and historical cuts, even ones that go as far back as the 1820’s. He might also be interested in unconventional design lines that go beyond single and double breasted. The sky is the limit. We often design clothing on paper together with the idea of presenting it to a tailor one day. I have never seen bespoke suits made with these wild aesthetics. Is it inappropriate to ask for such eccentric suits from a master tailor? Or would these requests be in line with sartorial services? Thank you.
Your suit is very beautiful Hugo. Colors influence our feelings, how do you feel in a yellow suit?
I feel very joyful Davide! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS You are all glowing Hugo, you are prettier than Sonya today :)
@@kledingstylist I'm afraid this is impossible 😅
@@SARTORIALTALKS Nothing is impossible you wear a yellow suit :) Sonya is a very beautiful woman of course , and her
clothing style is very beautiful also.
What a great notification to receive :).
Nice video, have a nice day.
Thanks Gauthier for your loyalty and enthusiasm! Cheers, Hugo
Hugo and Sonya:
Thank you for all you, I have a question? Do you lose weight and get in shape before you embark in a journey of spending over $2k on a custom suit?
Dear friend, it's a great question. Most of the men who decide to start what we call their "sartorial journey" have a tendency of getting in good shape first. Of course it's not mandatory, but we believe it's better to start by taking care of your body (and health). You'll never regret it and, on top of that, you'll do your best to stay in shape because you'll discover how personal elegance will change your life. All our best; Hugo & Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for the advice. I'd love know if you're coming to NY any time soon.
@@MrVictarrr Actually we should record an episode of Sartorial Talks in NYC in November. Stay tuned on our Instagram page because we will announce when this will take place. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS please set up a meet and greet
@@emoney2480 That's a good idea. We'll see what we can do. Cheers, Hugo
HELLO HUGO ; i would like to know , with a limited budget of 300€ which watch can you recommend me. Thanks
Dear Hyppolyte, take a look at this episode: th-cam.com/video/iE9OxVWJotY/w-d-xo.html
Best regards, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS thanks a lot
hi Hugo,
I'm in for my first suit. I saw the suit you wear in your intro at 0:07 time mark. What fabric is this suit made of? Also is such a colour advisable as a first suit?
love the videos!
I may be wrong about this, but I have a feeling that in a few years we will be looking back and basically laughing at these exaggerated lapels just like we look back and see some ridiculous trends from the 80s, 90s, etc. They're out of proportion. Think Pythagorean ratios, those are timeless.
Hello Hugo, I am interested in getting your Shoes book. I wrote an email and replied with the info you requested. Haven’t received a reply since. How can I buy the book in the English version? Thank you?.
I got my first decent suit at suit supply, fantastic fabric. I was upset when I realized after I purchased it I forgot to prioritize getting trousers with side adjustments. Now Im stuck with belt loops and I dislike belts and the matching game with shoes.
Have the loops removed and add brace buttons. Braces are the way to go.
@@LightemupWMH Thats what I was thinking. Thats pretty much the only option right? no extra fabric to make side tabs.
Actually if they can find the exact same fabric, it's no big deal to add side adjusters. Cheers, Hugo
How young may be too young to buy and wear made to measure suits? I am a university student who loves dressing up but feel slightly out of place
You guys need to start your own brand asap.
Dear Ahmad, that's not what we want to do. We love our job as commentators and content producers. Cheers, Hugo
🎩🥃
Hmmmm that yellow suit is pretty great. I'm worried , however, that if I tried to pull that off I'd end up looking like a banana or something.
I don't think you'll look like a banana Brian. This collar is much easier to pull off than you might think. Have a nice week-end! Hugo
Hugo, I absolutely love your content & subjects covered.
But you really need to rein it in & stop talking so much / over your guests. We want to hear what they have to say. We already know that English is not your first language (cushion/pillow conversation was just embarassing), you're french, you had a new suit, etc. I, me, my, back in my days etc. is way too much.
Stop it. Let them speak please.
Well, I accept criticism of course, and I can probably speak less. But you must also understand that the rhythm in such a live discussion is super important (and that's my job to keep it fluid and high). As for the me, myself, I, I think you don't know me. It's a very quick judgement. Anyway, no hard feelings and I wish you the best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS thanks for taking the time to clarify.
You're probably right. Either way, I look forward to the next one.
Cheers Hugo👍
If you go to Vietnam or Thailand, be prepared for them to overpromise and underdeliver. Dont pay up front, and you need to be explicit they wont lift a finger more than they have to. they are the used car salesmen of suits.
Thanks Roger. We've never been there but we'll remember the advice (even if I believe there are good professionals and people everywhere). All my best, Hugo
Thanks for the videos and satorial education.
Pleasure
How to find these guys?