I also timeserted my block, but I did all threads with 24,5mm long inserts. I’m running with stock compression (10,5) and 1bar boost, with stock victor reinz headgasket and stock headbolts, zero problema since 2017 👌🏻 but mine is m52b25 so it makes about 400hp at crank with 15psi boost
In my area some local engine tuning workshop have tested that new stock heatbolts is Holding about 25-28psi boost, but in my opinion 15psi is safe enough for daily car. I planned that I change athena cooperring if stock gasket burns...well maybe someday. 😃
I watched your vids before i started my m52 turbo build, and today i did the SAME THING🤣 literally same bolt too, i now know the real feeling of defeat😐 just came back to see what threads you used to fix it 😃
@@maxleonard97 i just google time sert and saw that ''wurth'' (in sweden) sold the same kit he used in this video, did not have to ask for a part number
dude can you beleive i was timing my M50, and i couldnt spin it would always get stuck, i was like what the fuck is going on?? then i look at the back like u did :'D :'D. nice one man haha
yeah i gapped the first ring to 0.020" and the second ring to 0.024". ive had no oil filling my breather tank in 3 months. I think what killed my hone on my last engine was i installed the rings wet with ATF. this engine installed the rings dry and worked like a charm
@@ImJoel on camera everything looks different ... 9:35 it looks like something has already left a tiny mark in that hone of cylinder nr 1 ... idk man was just wondering ... btw you should always put everything in an enginge together WET not dry :D was wondering why you could even think that lube does hurt anything ... there has to be another issue when you think the lube is the problem ... maybe next time dont use trani-fluid cause its made to have different features if you think of drumbrake style oiled clutches in an automatic transmission ;) might be that transmissionfluid is not good in providing anticutpropertys in a way it even helps cutting steel against steels . dont get me wrong i LOVE your content !!!! keep up your nice vids !!
Lmao no hate but always lube the pistons and ring’s especially if they are new rings You’ll work harden the rings from the first startup and they won’t seal very good they may not work harden but they won’t seat as well
@@ImJoel that works in a perfect world But you're one overboost or 1 tank of mislabeled 93 pump gas from blowing a ringland unles you're running e85 pimp juice
Year later still watching. Don't give up on making videos. You are very relatable and hard working. I admire you.
You deserve way more views, really good content
thank you bro i deadass really appreciate it
I learned so much from this, amazing video, will definitely be useful for when I build my first engine 💪
This guy is the goat 💪🏻🐏
@@ImJoel which toll do you use to remove valvesprings?
@@FirstLast-tx3yj I used a habor freight valve spring tool. people dont like it because its sketchy but it was good for me
I also timeserted my block, but I did all threads with 24,5mm long inserts. I’m running with stock compression (10,5) and 1bar boost, with stock victor reinz headgasket and stock headbolts, zero problema since 2017 👌🏻 but mine is m52b25 so it makes about 400hp at crank with 15psi boost
damn good shit! you're brave doing that with stock head bolts and head gasket
In my area some local engine tuning workshop have tested that new stock heatbolts is Holding about 25-28psi boost, but in my opinion 15psi is safe enough for daily car. I planned that I change athena cooperring if stock gasket burns...well maybe someday. 😃
In these engines it’s all about a good tune, if the tune is not so good an you do some hard pulls or trackdays...It’s byebye ringlands.
@@bilteman_hukkaportti so what does a good tune mean? safe timing or just the engine leaning out?
@@bilteman_hukkaportti that is really interesting though everyone always jumps over to ARP for head studs since its what everyone does
Enjoyed this video a lot 🙌🏼
thank you for watching! first drive is getting uploaded this weekend
I watched your vids before i started my m52 turbo build, and today i did the SAME THING🤣 literally same bolt too, i now know the real feeling of defeat😐 just came back to see what threads you used to fix it 😃
Did you find the timesert part number? I can only find aluminum block PN
@@maxleonard97 i just google time sert and saw that ''wurth'' (in sweden) sold the same kit he used in this video, did not have to ask for a part number
Bro its so confusing 😂 all these damn parts laying infront of me 🤣
18:20 dang yo I felt yo pain bro 😔
Learning curve
thanks for the video so much to learn
Hi, How many miles that engine has before rebuild?
This vid is a lesson.
Very nice 👌👌👌 awesome video man
thank you my guy!
dude can you beleive i was timing my M50, and i couldnt spin it would always get stuck, i was like what the fuck is going on?? then i look at the back like u did :'D :'D. nice one man haha
Awesome video!
So you used the old rod bolts?
And what piston rings you used , m54 or m52?
He used em to plasti gauge
Hey what’s the difference why your building a cast block instead of a aluminum block
Show me the spray can you used to spray the block !
Does it have a color code ?
You had lots of life left in the stock pistons? I need to rering and I'm hoping I can reuse the stock pistons....
What torque wrench is this??
10:28 I died 😂
Yo you did dam good bro
Fucking loved this
Isn’t that a M50 block cast iron ? Thought M52 was aluminium block ? Sick if it is. ✌🏼
M52 are not aluminum block
@@emilioestevez3469 th-cam.com/video/J_VPIYUKBZY/w-d-xo.html
Did you even measure the ring gaps ? That might have killed the hone on your last block ... most pistonrings come a little to tight .
yeah i gapped the first ring to 0.020" and the second ring to 0.024". ive had no oil filling my breather tank in 3 months. I think what killed my hone on my last engine was i installed the rings wet with ATF. this engine installed the rings dry and worked like a charm
@@ImJoel on camera everything looks different ... 9:35 it looks like something has already left a tiny mark in that hone of cylinder nr 1 ... idk man was just wondering ... btw you should always put everything in an enginge together WET not dry :D was wondering why you could even think that lube does hurt anything ... there has to be another issue when you think the lube is the problem ... maybe next time dont use trani-fluid cause its made to have different features if you think of drumbrake style oiled clutches in an automatic transmission ;) might be that transmissionfluid is not good in providing anticutpropertys in a way it even helps cutting steel against steels .
dont get me wrong i LOVE your content !!!! keep up your nice vids !!
this was fire as fuck where do you live i’m coming
Bro said ima do a dry instal and then it sounds like he’s dragging sandpaper through the cylinders w those dry ass pistons
Lmao no hate but always lube the pistons and ring’s especially if they are new rings
You’ll work harden the rings from the first startup and they won’t seal very good they may not work harden but they won’t seat as well
@@colewalker3256 been over a year driven hard and only filled 1 catch can on the dyno. no blowby issues. dry is the way to go
Y r you measuring in inches.
you used stock rods and pistons.
bye bye ring lands.
im not going for anything more than 500wheel. people have had m52's last really long at 550 wheel
@@ImJoel that works in a perfect world
But you're one overboost or 1 tank of mislabeled 93 pump gas from blowing a ringland unles you're running e85 pimp juice
@@frontspring1 fair about the 93 pump gas. if that happens it was just meant to blow. but i have the boost cut low at 16psi in the standalone
@@ImJoel I need a standalone for my m52
I'm tired of paying 500 a tune
are you a train mechanic bro or do you door dash?