Great video! getting ready for my voron 2.4 build.. definitely going to go with this probe! would love to see a video explaining all the different iterations of the tool head. There seem to be quite a few and It would be helpful to see all the available options ;)
I haven't had any luck with that click switch behind the bed. It was always off by a bit and even scraped my bed. If this transforms my Voron from "I need to babysit the first layer EVERY TIME" to fire and forget I don't care about any extra weight.
I often get a tiny blob of filament sticking to the tip of the nozzle after it cooled down (which oozed out while still hot). I suspect this could affect the readings. Do you have any soution for that on hand, or is this no problem? Maybe one could implement a cooldown routine which whipes the nozzle on a brush till its cold enough, so it would stay clean. I'm really loving the design and am considering it for a build. It completely eliminates the need of calibrating the probe.
Yes works good on my x1 carbon, but it does nozzle cleaning 2 times. And when I use custom starting g code, it is often that first layer is screwed because of the blob. But if I want to wait for the whole starting process than it works good. On my cr6 se I really hated it. The worst ever. Always had to make sure nozzle is clean before printing. Did bl touch install and really happy with it now. But hey if you keep an eye on the nozzle and make sure it is clean than it should work really well, I guess.
Plus it looks like it requires a 500-800 grams of pressure on the bed. With 150 and more degrees C it has chances to damage your bed material like PC build plate. Did a lot of damage to mine whambam pc plate. Had to move my plate a little so nozzle doesn't go in the same spot on the plate that already had a hole in a PC material.
for the 4k camera, I see that you connected the ribbon cable - but what about the other connector on the other side of the board? did you just leave it dissconeected?
I am curious where those doors came from, I did not know there was ACM doors for the Trident. Or at least they look like the 2.4 ACM doors from Printed Solid.
Very great job I hope to make a video of how to install BTT UPS 24V V1.0 RESUME PRINTING for power losses recovery on the klipper There is no explanation or video of how to install it on TH-cam
Is this done hot or code? You mentioned a 150c max temp so I'm assuming cold. There is always a small bit of plastic remaining on the tip of the nozzle (very tiny, but still there) How is that compensated for? That tiny bit of plastic changes after ever print and would therefor change the offset each homing sequence. Maybe preheat the nozzle for the homing sequence, the filament would squish out of the way.
Had a similar system by @properprinting on one of my machines, works perfectly, but, and this is a big but, it needs the nozzle to be hot, otherwise the cold molten filament will mess the first layer most of the time during use, especially if using a Volcano. I removed it, have an inductive probe now.
You might be able to get by this issue by having a separate z endtop and solely relying on the TAP of the hot end for bed leveling alone, not z offset.
How is the tap kit supposed to be wired and configured for the octopus v1.1 with no can. Mine stays triggered in both the up and down position. I'm using the same wiring from the hall sensor. My voron kit and tap is from formbot.
i prefer the probe to be normally closed, so if the probe system fails, it wont even move anymore (self check) And as i wrecked 4 inductive probes in just 1 year (maybe because bad quality.. who knows) - this is a good solution for me.
just a general question, a voron formbot 2.4 R2, what's the general power consumption while printing and what's the noise level in DB with doors open vs doors closed? i tried to ask in the voron discord but no luck so far
hey man pls help with the system.cfg mine is not working well all z motor can buzz accordingly but when i click on home it goes craxy causeing the abs to break . Please help
I have an issue with the tap carriage, cleaned and greased the mgn9 from fysstec like the others on my 2.4 wich helped a lot but here the carriage stay stiff and don't go down once I rise it. Do I need to fill the rail? Since the plastic rail that hold the carriage fly on it.
I have certain doubts about how to work with Tap. I understand that once the z-offset is calibrated, the value can be maintained for a long time as long as there are no drastic changes in the system. Besides, how should Z-TILT and BED_MESH be used? Is it recommended to calibrate both at the beginning of each print as I did so far with the inductive probe?
Hello, does anyone have the Voron tap calibration set? I have a problem when starting the print, everything seems to be going well until it finishes calibrating and it tells me that the nozzle temperature is very low... I don't know how to change that... when it finishes calibrating, it raises the temperature so that I can print...thank you.
Right now I'm running Klicky PCB and auto-z. With this setup, I can change nozzles and build surfaces and never have to change my z offset. I guess there's no need for auto-z with Tap(?), but can I change my built surface (to a thicker one, for example) or nozzle and not have to change the z-offset in printer.cfg?
For the most part this is YES. I have tested this with MRW kinematic set. I crudely measured the pressure/weight before deflection on MIC6 plat at a little over 900 grams at the outer most corners of a 355mm build plate. If you use the magnets in the BOM your toolhead should have more than 600 grams of force but less than 700 grams of force. You will have to test your mic6 build plate for deflection with the kinematic system installed, ymmv.
@@CanuckCreator Ah, makes sense, thanks. Hmm, then maybe the Switchwire version of TAP could have an optical sensor in the bed! Of course, that probably wouldn't work because the bed would pivot about its central mounting point slightly when tapped, and the beam deflection probably doesn't help either.
It adds about 40g depending on the setup, IIRC SB+cw2+tap is lighter than a non TAP SB with say a full sized LGX extruder I dont really chase grams with my machines so never really worried about weight, but YMMV
Hi , I am adding the tap kit, on the new motor, did you just use the old connection and match the color to on cables ? Also, I bought the light kit, do you have a video on that hookup?
@@qwertyboguss yes I did watch the video, but it would have been great to discuss the complete change over to tap. Did you hear him discuss the complete change over? Fuck No!
I don't get the hype: First In the real world your hotend is heated up and with my 0.6mm volcano nozzle there always ooze dripping out when idling.. So when probing with the nozzle there is always some molten plastic between the bed and the nozzle.. Second it adds some weight (more than a BLtouch or clicky) to the gantry. Third, Tthe distance between the linear X rail and nozzle increases by inserting a tap in between, so you sould probable decrease your max acceleration.. But most of all the clean nozzle dependency makes the tap not usable for me.. Anyone elses thoughts?
I dont run any sort of nozzle cleaning routine, no brush or anything i do a -5mm retract at the end of a print any ooze is smushed out of the way with a 150c nozzle during the tap routine anyways ive never had an issue and the printers i have with tap have to most consistent first layers of any of the vorons ive built with the various bed probing setups
i know right, weight is the one and only thing that impacts every decision ever, if only we had some sort of shaping method with input to negate those downsides.
@@VladislavKurashov On the machines i have it installed in it has not impacted quality nor the normal speeds i run at in any negative way, its been a net positive in both
I know voron is an open source project but i hate that the community does all the hard work and companies take all the profit away from their work by selling it without any fee. Why can’t voron have a license and other companies have to pay a fine if they want to use their intellectual property. Or at least any release like tap that companies sell, a percentage of that sale goes to voron themselves so the community grows bigger and have a wider community of also paid folks.
@@CanuckCreator i understand its an open source but like i said, i hate that the team isn’t getting compensated and the ones that are is LDO etc its a what if scenario lol next best thing we can do is support the developers that are donating their time. Hey btw i saw that there wasn’t a paper calibration in your vid, is it required? I have a fairly new 2.4 and took down the dual mgn9h for the single mgn12 rail just so i could install tap, is the paper calibration required afterwards? My klipper config is fairly stock with just a nevermore fan. Thanks for your vids! They helped a lot during my build
@@CanuckCreator I’m waiting on fabreeko’s textured pei to come in so i can move forward with calibrating tap and i’ll finally do my very first print on my 2.4. I know this is like meh to you since you have plenty of speedy vorons but it took me over a year to build one with every other paycheck buying another part in the bom and so forth so i’m like a kid in the candy store waiting to print lol thanks nero, like i said your videos helped alot with my build so im grateful to you guys. my last question is how do i get such a majestic beard?
I couldn't recognize you for a good second without the apron but then the beard gave it away, and I was like oh okay it's him...
Great video! getting ready for my voron 2.4 build.. definitely going to go with this probe! would love to see a video explaining all the different iterations of the tool head. There seem to be quite a few and It would be helpful to see all the available options ;)
goodness I would love a more in depth dive into z-offset with tap, my system gets calibrated and then still prints 1.5mm above the bed
The intro was great!
LOL the intro was HILARIOUS 😂
think its the way to go thanks for the good tips i wanna build one soon and it helps allot
Eh cool but adding more complexity and room for error I think. Bltouch style probes will always be my favorite I think.
and a lot of weight!
I haven't had any luck with that click switch behind the bed. It was always off by a bit and even scraped my bed. If this transforms my Voron from "I need to babysit the first layer EVERY TIME" to fire and forget I don't care about any extra weight.
That intro killed me, well done sir, LMAO!
6:13 LTT Screwdriver?
Good video... btw what electric srewdriver is that?
Great video Nero
Nice! We need a version for the Voron0.
I often get a tiny blob of filament sticking to the tip of the nozzle after it cooled down (which oozed out while still hot). I suspect this could affect the readings. Do you have any soution for that on hand, or is this no problem?
Maybe one could implement a cooldown routine which whipes the nozzle on a brush till its cold enough, so it would stay clean.
I'm really loving the design and am considering it for a build. It completely eliminates the need of calibrating the probe.
Nozzle brushes are an option. Also heat the nozzle to 150 before probing makes most filament smush out of the way
Yes works good on my x1 carbon, but it does nozzle cleaning 2 times. And when I use custom starting g code, it is often that first layer is screwed because of the blob. But if I want to wait for the whole starting process than it works good.
On my cr6 se I really hated it. The worst ever. Always had to make sure nozzle is clean before printing. Did bl touch install and really happy with it now.
But hey if you keep an eye on the nozzle and make sure it is clean than it should work really well, I guess.
Plus it looks like it requires a 500-800 grams of pressure on the bed. With 150 and more degrees C it has chances to damage your bed material like PC build plate. Did a lot of damage to mine whambam pc plate. Had to move my plate a little so nozzle doesn't go in the same spot on the plate that already had a hole in a PC material.
Liked 3 seconds in, perfect! 😂😂😂
Where did you built the Clockwork? Cannot find any video on your channel about it
for the 4k camera, I see that you connected the ribbon cable - but what about the other connector on the other side of the board? did you just leave it dissconeected?
I am curious where those doors came from, I did not know there was ACM doors for the Trident. Or at least they look like the 2.4 ACM doors from Printed Solid.
Very great job
I hope to make a video of how to install BTT UPS 24V V1.0 RESUME PRINTING for power losses recovery on the klipper
There is no explanation or video of how to install it on TH-cam
Is this done hot or code? You mentioned a 150c max temp so I'm assuming cold. There is always a small bit of plastic remaining on the tip of the nozzle (very tiny, but still there) How is that compensated for? That tiny bit of plastic changes after ever print and would therefor change the offset each homing sequence. Maybe preheat the nozzle for the homing sequence, the filament would squish out of the way.
Hey just wondering which printer you are using the most between your trident and your 2.4 R2 as I'm thinking of building one or the other.
Love the shirt! Where do I get one?
Thanks for the video!
Which kind of voron is it?
Can you add like to the video if you make one
Had a similar system by @properprinting on one of my machines, works perfectly, but, and this is a big but, it needs the nozzle to be hot, otherwise the cold molten filament will mess the first layer most of the time during use, especially if using a Volcano. I removed it, have an inductive probe now.
You might be able to get by this issue by having a separate z endtop and solely relying on the TAP of the hot end for bed leveling alone, not z offset.
Like the Duet smart effector. Use that on my Delta, pretty awesome. Interested in the Piezo Orion. Cool to see Voron also doing their own design.
Is your tap probe wired into the probe port on your MCU?
Thanks for the video, works like a champ
Cant your share SB toolhead for drop effect hotend?
Do you still need the z endstop with the tap?
Do you have a gcode Profile for Prusa Slicer ? Just the start code .. and yes I posted this question on Discord , no reply
we have the same soldering iron but mine is red so its faster
How is the tap kit supposed to be wired and configured for the octopus v1.1 with no can. Mine stays triggered in both the up and down position. I'm using the same wiring from the hall sensor. My voron kit and tap is from formbot.
Where do I get that tshirt?
i prefer the probe to be normally closed, so if the probe system fails, it wont even move anymore (self check)
And as i wrecked 4 inductive probes in just 1 year (maybe because bad quality.. who knows) - this is a good solution for me.
Thank you! This video saved me a lot of time!
thanks.
do you think tap will be also moded for printers with linear rails on top of the extrusion (gantry)?
just a general question, a voron formbot 2.4 R2, what's the general power consumption while printing and what's the noise level in DB with doors open vs doors closed?
i tried to ask in the voron discord but no luck so far
hey man pls help with the system.cfg mine is not working well all z motor can buzz accordingly but when i click on home it goes craxy causeing the abs to break . Please help
Would be easier a probing system like the ender 6? It makes this system less complicated.
What is the cheapest project that works well for a 3d printer for me to do from scratch?
whst is the hotend in the video?
Pros and cons vs strain gauge options?
What's the orange you've used? It looks awesome!
Prusament ASA
Tap looks cool
I have an issue with the tap carriage, cleaned and greased the mgn9 from fysstec like the others on my 2.4 wich helped a lot but here the carriage stay stiff and don't go down once I rise it. Do I need to fill the rail? Since the plastic rail that hold the carriage fly on it.
@Nero 3D you meant to say "a good MGN 12 rail" at 0:45, right?
I'm referring to the mgn9 rail installed in TAP here
the tap itself is a small MGN9 rail AFAIK, the MGN12 is for the entire X axis
I have certain doubts about how to work with Tap. I understand that once the z-offset is calibrated, the value can be maintained for a long time as long as there are no drastic changes in the system. Besides, how should Z-TILT and BED_MESH be used? Is it recommended to calibrate both at the beginning of each print as I did so far with the inductive probe?
what kind of solder iron do you have if you don't mind saying, the heat set insert tips? Where from?
for soldering i use a ts100
For heatsets i use a cheap amazon iron with an LDO heatset tip
@@CanuckCreator Awesome, thank you!
is drop effect good nozzle?
Hello, does anyone have the Voron tap calibration set? I have a problem when starting the print, everything seems to be going well until it finishes calibrating and it tells me that the nozzle temperature is very low... I don't know how to change that... when it finishes calibrating, it raises the temperature so that I can print...thank you.
Great job, the video was informative and clean. I don't own any Voron printers however I'd feel comfortable in using this guide if I ever do.
Right now I'm running Klicky PCB and auto-z. With this setup, I can change nozzles and build surfaces and never have to change my z offset. I guess there's no need for auto-z with Tap(?), but can I change my built surface (to a thicker one, for example) or nozzle and not have to change the z-offset in printer.cfg?
correct, only issue you MAY run into is if you use a really thick bed and print something that goes up to max z height you run the risk of a crash
Which is better. Sensorless or tap? I rarely see anyone talk about sensorless.
sensorless only works on XY, it is nowhere near accurate enough for Z offset, so thats why you dont see it talked about
@@CanuckCreator Thanks, good to know.
What hotend is that? Never seen that one before.
Drop effect XG
Great video!
This has put me back in the right direction. Just tapping it in, Just tapping it in ;-)
Was wondering if you could answer why the Switchback is made from 30mm extrusions instead of 20mm extrusions like the rest of the voron universe.
Switch wire doesn't have a cube frame so the 3030 makes it a bit more rigid and stiff than 2020 and makes some the design aspects simplier
does this work with a kinematic bed?
For the most part this is YES. I have tested this with MRW kinematic set. I crudely measured the pressure/weight before deflection on MIC6 plat at a little over 900 grams at the outer most corners of a 355mm build plate. If you use the magnets in the BOM your toolhead should have more than 600 grams of force but less than 700 grams of force. You will have to test your mic6 build plate for deflection with the kinematic system installed, ymmv.
@@tillburn thank you for your answer, i will give it a try :)
You don’t need Tap to switch between build plates as you wich, I have BLtouch on my bed slingers and I do that as well
Never said that it was a TAP exclusive feature, but just something you can now do vs the stock setup on a voron.
Why doesn't it work with the Switchwire? Is there some fundamental issue or has it just not been ported to it yet?
The stock bed setup is not rigid enough. It will deflect down before tap is activated
@@CanuckCreator Ah, makes sense, thanks. Hmm, then maybe the Switchwire version of TAP could have an optical sensor in the bed! Of course, that probably wouldn't work because the bed would pivot about its central mounting point slightly when tapped, and the beam deflection probably doesn't help either.
With Voron Tap is not necesary have the Z endstop button?
Cotrect
I still don't see the advantage of tap over klicky with auto-z
Seems cool if you don't care about adding bunch of weight.
It adds about 40g depending on the setup, IIRC SB+cw2+tap is lighter than a non TAP SB with say a full sized LGX extruder
I dont really chase grams with my machines so never really worried about weight, but YMMV
Hi , I am adding the tap kit, on the new motor, did you just use the old connection and match the color to on cables ? Also, I bought the light kit, do you have a video on that hookup?
Why does it need to move that much?
So good! No more paper testing✌👌
ohhhh boy... stop selling! I need this for my voron
Great video, but it would have been great to mention changing the MGN12 rail and what all needs changed to run Tap.
Did you even watch the video?
2:00
@@qwertyboguss yes I did watch the video, but it would have been great to discuss the complete change over to tap.
Did you hear him discuss the complete change over? Fuck No!
I don't get the hype:
First In the real world your hotend is heated up and with my 0.6mm volcano nozzle there always ooze dripping out when idling.. So when probing with the nozzle there is always some molten plastic between the bed and the nozzle..
Second it adds some weight (more than a BLtouch or clicky) to the gantry.
Third, Tthe distance between the linear X rail and nozzle increases by inserting a tap in between, so you sould probable decrease your max acceleration..
But most of all the clean nozzle dependency makes the tap not usable for me.. Anyone elses thoughts?
I dont run any sort of nozzle cleaning routine, no brush or anything
i do a -5mm retract at the end of a print
any ooze is smushed out of the way with a 150c nozzle during the tap routine anyways
ive never had an issue and the printers i have with tap have to most consistent first layers of any of the vorons ive built with the various bed probing setups
@@CanuckCreatorInterresting that smushed ooze doesn't affect the reading in a negative way..
Wish it was really that easy!
Ill stick to clicky. Im not to confident about a "loose" toolhead
DANCING BABY
Elite pants on fire signaling.
Yes.... Im not even close to that accuracy.
Nice to know even the pro TH-camrs do not rtfm 🤷♂️😂 Great video! It really shows all the mistakes us lazy boys will do :)
1:38 ...or you're reading the thickness of the filament stuck to your nozzle :D
"How to add more weight to the printhead"
i know right, weight is the one and only thing that impacts every decision ever, if only we had some sort of shaping method with input to negate those downsides.
@@CanuckCreator voron isn't fast printer, and adding unnecessary weight and complexity sounds like bad idea.
@@VladislavKurashov On the machines i have it installed in it has not impacted quality nor the normal speeds i run at in any negative way, its been a net positive in both
PCB Board
LCD Display
IT Technologies :)
"There is no perfect solution-"
Beacon3D has entered the chat
Beacon only works on conductive beds that are metal so your limited to those . And again. It's not reading the physical print surface
dont like it! But creative none the less. ill stick with klicky/unklicky
Question, do you need to do a paper calibration?
Yess. If you bed is slanted your object will be a paralellogram instead of a cube. Get it as close as you can.
I know voron is an open source project but i hate that the community does all the hard work and companies take all the profit away from their work by selling it without any fee. Why can’t voron have a license and other companies have to pay a fine if they want to use their intellectual property. Or at least any release like tap that companies sell, a percentage of that sale goes to voron themselves so the community grows bigger and have a wider community of also paid folks.
Its an open source, community driven project, not a company, theres no desire to make Voron "for profit" by the team
@@CanuckCreator i understand its an open source but like i said, i hate that the team isn’t getting compensated and the ones that are is LDO etc its a what if scenario lol next best thing we can do is support the developers that are donating their time. Hey btw i saw that there wasn’t a paper calibration in your vid, is it required? I have a fairly new 2.4 and took down the dual mgn9h for the single mgn12 rail just so i could install tap, is the paper calibration required afterwards? My klipper config is fairly stock with just a nevermore fan. Thanks for your vids! They helped a lot during my build
@@RPista you still need to set your z offset, using paper or whatever your preferred method is.
@@CanuckCreator I’m waiting on fabreeko’s textured pei to come in so i can move forward with calibrating tap and i’ll finally do my very first print on my 2.4. I know this is like meh to you since you have plenty of speedy vorons but it took me over a year to build one with every other paycheck buying another part in the bom and so forth so i’m like a kid in the candy store waiting to print lol thanks nero, like i said your videos helped alot with my build so im grateful to you guys. my last question is how do i get such a majestic beard?