I love my V0.1's. They are definitely challenging and like you it was my first Voron build so the manuals took some time for me to decrypt. They aren't the most practical but for cranking out parts they are little workhorses. Lots of great info and congrats on the completed build :)
@@LostInTech3D oh yeah. You already faced the final boss haha 😂. The rest will be like a walk in the park. Seriously I did the Switchwire and not having to worry about preloading was such a breath of fresh air.
well done, I appreciate your efforts and your honesty about building traps you encountered. It takes a strong character to share mistakes in such a public place.
Digging the EVA-01 Color scheme! I've been thinking of building an 0.2 just so I can get small detailed parts superfast. The sourcing by itself is already rather intimidating tbh...
I've heard this is the hardest Voron to build, so congrats for getting this far! For an easier/more practical build the Trident (300 cubed from LDO) should be much easier.
It is! As how hard/tedious the voron printers are to assemble the order is 0.1 > 2.4 > Trident > Legacy > switchwire. The reasons the 0.1 is the most difficult one to assemble is mostly related to the fact that all the parts are smaller, from extrusions to screws , nuts and parts
CongratulationsI Looks like a little beast of a printer. I just finished a RatRig V-Minion build. I went small because I rarely print anything larger than 15 cm in any dimension
Hey nice!!! I like it.. You make the printer like the most of the common people could do,not like all these influence 3d printer guys,some of them scares me sometime! You also are the first one that make a voron that talks or you could say sings!! At the end you could hear him ....
I'll be honest; at 10:19 I misread the sticker as "incontinence" and had a chuckle. I guess I now know what I've got to do with the Dymo label maker and my printer (which never quite seems to have enough retraction) .
I see why people are liking them: it's cuteness overload, especially when it's chirping happily in the end. A dedicated printer for printablok castles ^_^ Cuteness factor is actually way above the commercial printers, maybe except for SV06.
@13:55 the banging you say you heard may be caused by the drivers changing from stealthchop to spreadcycle when going above the 250mm/s threshold, maybe for travel moves. I'm just speculating here btw. The klipper documentation states that changing from stealthchop to spreacycle can cause such things and recommends to only run the printer in one mode or the other so either 0 or 9999999. Again I'm just speculating. Great build and waiting for more videos on it after you tunned the printer more and started putting that beast though it's paces!
Thanks for this mate; great intro for anyone pre-build on 0.1 or a 2.4 for that matter! A few notes I may add for first time v2.4 & v0.1 builders: I'm tackling my V2.4 right now and the 0.1 will be next. Glad I stumbled across this this video....and glad I decided to go for the v2.4 first, as the build process for the v2.4 seems to be a LOT less tedious (With roll-in T-nuts with the ball spring detents for m3's and m5's). As you noted in the video even on the v2.4 manual it took me about 4 or 5 pages get into the flow of the vernacular. The vocabulary and the "unique intuitiveness" of the figures will lead you to mistakes but as you progress you will learn....it's idiosyncrasies become very apparent very quickly and you will start to enjoy the process the further you progress through the manual. I also agree with you on not being afraid to run a drill bit through your parts for screw holes. I ran into a few M3 holes on my prints that the screw/bolt wouldn't drop straight through to the heat set inserts (slightly too tight) and thus the screw had to be screwed into and through the ABS before being able to thread into the heat set inserts on the other side. To overcome this (instead of drilling the hole out) I simply put my aluminum 1/4" bit driver right into the chuck of my m12 milwaukee drill on the lowest clutch setting with the right hex bit in it to drive them through; you could probably just chuck a 1/4" or 3/8" hex bit too. Then I hand tightened them down with a hex key for final torquing. This really sped up the agonizing process of running all TWENTY FOUR of the M3x40mm bolts all the way down through the ABS shell on all four of the z-drive assembly's. If I had to crank all 24x of those 40mm M3's into the ABS by hand my fingers would have fallen off. Don't be afraid to improvise and use the tools you have on hand, you don't need to solely use hex keys cranking everything by hand to build the thing; though I would recommend driving the hex bolts in with power tools and snugging the bolts by hand to avoid over torquing things. IMO the No-drop nuts mod seems to be the way to go on the V0. Happy Voron building!
Calling this speed puppy an obsolete piece of hardware is downright insane. Beautiful build, btw. I would love to tackle something like that. I just got into 3d printing mostly for parts for my existing hobby of rc aerial models and most things I print are less than 120mm^3.
i took it as him joking about about the timing of how just a week ago the v0.2 was announced lol look on aliexpress for voron kits! fystec posts on their as well as a few other reputable brands that have well into the hundreds of reviews by now with like minimum 4.8 star ratings
Reading technical drawings is a whole skill in itself. Some are made better and some are made worse. You just have to be able to read them carefully and infer some things correctly just due to experience.
Congrats! I think everything you laid out is fairly on point. Building printers can get repetitive. So can LEGO and IKEA. Hopefully this video dispels some myths about having everything perfect or it just won’t work. Z rail adjustment is a perfect example, you’re gonna have to adjust them later anyway. If you pay attention to the machine on first run, you can usually tell what needs to be adjusted. And since you just finished building the thing, you know exactly what to adjust and how.
Did you enjoy the process overall or just feel happy to finally be done with the build, haha? :) I always thought about building one but like you said some parts can be way too tedious. Maybe I will build The ROOK 3D printer instead, love the concept of it.
I'm interested in where the rook might be going, it's quite early with that one. Hard to say if I'm happy or relieved lol - but the printer does look nice!
@@LostInTech3D I'm biased AF but: Do it; specifically, have a chat with Rolohaun and the next steps for Rook, I hear he has quite a bit planned already and is working on it.
The banging noises come from the transition between stealthchop and spread cycle. For me personally spreadcycle is less noisy as you spend significant amount of time above 200-250 mm/s and at that speed stealthchop will sound hella loud and ugly, lile skipped steps or collisions. The funny thing is the faster you go in spreadcycle, the lower the noise, 40mm/s is louder than 80mm/s, thats why my first layers are all set to 80 instead of 40. Also with stealthchop you get skipped steps earlier due to speed. Sounds kinda dumb but i had to set z to spread cycle because i was getting skips due to the 2mm pitch leadscrew on my twotrees sapphire in the print start routine. That was at 20mm/s. Its seems you cant go over 10 Revolutions per second in stealthchop
Hey, you're printing the left-facing bird from my Escher's birds and fishes in this video! That was a nice surprise. You might find that this reproduces better details than the V400. That printer seems to smooth out details, according to reports. Overly aggressive input shaping, maybe. Also, with a bit of work should should be able to hit much higher speeds than the V400. I believe the fastest speed benchy is on a modified V0 still.
Extrusion companies like Maytec make snap in spring loaded nuts that you can put into an assembled extrusion (aka preloading not necessary). They are like a T nut and the spring locks them in place keeping them from shifting all over. I highly recommend them. Probably cheaper than spending time printing nut holders.
you aint kidding. i used to work at a gas purification company and and assembled massive tank purification systems all with the frames and supports made of aluminum extrusion and spring loaded lock nuts. the spring nuts were absolutely amazing and made it possible to literally have a place to mount a bracket with a bolt going into the spring nut at any location you wanted. the possibilities were endless and i fell in love with aluminum extrusion and springs nuts lol with those two things (and a table saw) you could build virtually any structure you want. this was all many years ago before even 3d printing got big but working with aluminum extrusion and spring nuts with our printers brings me nostalgia and warms my soul lol
Finally got mine working a few days ago. Going through the tuning now, and have decided I still regret starting the project. :p The 0.1/2 is the hardest of the voron lines to assemble according to others who have done all the different versions.
Note: In one point of my build, when I thought I had it all together and ready to go.. I had horrible binding issues and other issues.. lost my temper and threw the printer across the room. Left it in said heap for 3 months before I pulled it out and got it finally working properly.
I've built a couple printers and CNC machines, and I have that same thought every time: "Is this going to work when I finish putting it together?" And yes, it does. Especially if you're building from a kit and know you have all the right parts. (The CNC that I tried to source myself was the exception, but it *did* eventually move properly... I've just never got up the energy to test it fully. lol)
StealthChop effectively uses smaller microsteps, the torque in each microstep is lower but in the end it's the same torque in the steps. For example, a 1/64 step will have half as much torque as a 1/32 step... But 2 /64 steps will have the same torque as a single /32 step, as they're the same thing! The result is that doing two (or in the case of StealthChop, multiple) smaller steps increases the torque more gradually instead of suddenly "slamming on the accelerator", so it's quieter.
Great video and good info! As for the lb/lbs, it's referring to foot-pounds most likely. I want to say it would equate to m-kg or Newtons, but not 100% sure.
I've got the Super Racer from Flsun, it's been a wonderful printer.. I've upgraded everything :-) I'm printing PC / CF at 100mm/s at 20k acceleration. Voron's are cool, but I can watch my Delta put down plastic for hours..... good review
I finish a V0.1 on the day V0.2 came out too, I didn't find the process tedious at all. In fact, it was the most fun project I have in a while. There are no nut drop mod for open beam extrusion, but you have to look around for it and it only 1 nut each. Edit: also worth noting that I was a freak who did all the mods I can do on my very first Voron, thus half the instruction manual is irrelevant to me, so your mileage may vary.
Nice job. I've been debating on building a voron for fun. I think if I was going to put in the effort though I'd build the biggest build volume I could. Why not? if you're going to spend all that time might as well get something that beats most bed slingers.
Btw a thought struck me concerning the heat build up, Formfutura makes PLA that is heat resistant up to 95C after heat treating it (baking it in an oven basically). I haven't tried it yet due to real life getting in the way, but i have a spool at home ^^. Just a thought for future builds that require something that can tolerate higher temps. Also im not affiliated in any way, just figured id share (there are probably other companies doing this, but this one was the only one i know of).
I've heat treated regular PLA (actually the mount for my DD extruder is heat treated PLA) and it's pretty resistant to boiling water in my testing. Much more so than just regular PLA. IIRC it was either Creality or eSun PLA+ filament.
@@jubb1984 Well whatever the actual mix "PLA+" is yeah. Shrinkage was very consistent with the right process (Slowly, over about an hour, both cooling and heating), IIRC it was something like minus 1-2% in the X/Y and plus 2% in Z (Yes, it grows in the Z direction). I was able to simply use scaling in Cura to get it right, with a bit of testing. Warping was kept minimal by very slowly raising temps and letting it soak along the way. Heat treated PLA is actually really nice, if you can get it consistent. Much less brittle than regular PLA.
Only issue I would see when wanting to build one...its a small printer. Cool for a Core X/Y system you can get crazy nuts print speeds, might be interesting to build one as a portable printer.
I built a V0 when it came out and it was huge PITA to build it. Worse is that back then it was hard to build one that didn't suffer from a number of print quality issues. The current spec of the V0 address that, but I'm sure it's still annoying to build. The Voron 2.4 was easier to build than V0.
@@thegarageluthier Now I have an image of a giant holding small tweezers 😂- If you ever build a 2.4 or even a Trident(even easier) you might change your mind, the consensus in the community is that they are both easier to build.
When I see your "scene transition crow", I think of Russell Brand and half expect/anticipate **fart** audio. If you watch Russell Brand videos, you'll understand ... Thanks for the Voron video ... great tips. I had been on the fence as to whether to build one or build the upside down 3D printer ( aka "printer in a filament box" ) Positron V3 by Kralyn3D. I have fallen off the fence and not building a Voron, probably not even the Positron V3.
trends come and go, I think less people will be interested in building a corexy as you can now just buy one, but it's still a cool thing to do, just for the sake of it, if you're that way inclined.
@@LostInTech3D Technically yes 😀 But would need to know it's you on Reddit and not somebody else just linking your video 🙂 BTW I loved the "Last In Tech" pun 😀
Those motors in the fysetc kit do very badly with stealthchop, mine did the same thing when I used the default config from them. Honestly they should set the config in their github to have it off by default.
@@LostInTech3D I also found their suggestion for the current for the extruder motor was too low and I had to push it significantly higher to get good results. Either way it was a solid kit (not as nice as ldo but decent and a lot cheaper). Congrats on the build and welcome to the club!
Nice printer for an incompetent. I experienced the motor knocking thing when building a mk3s clone using a mellow fly board, those 2209 drivers are strange.
I think you are the opposite of me. I enjoyed the mechanical build, found it all very easy to follow. But was annoyed by the electronics and software bit.
Not sounding bad here, But the Voron seems pointless to me when the bed size is tiny compared to even the smallest modern 3D printers! Even the over priced Prusa Mini has a bigger sized bed than this one. The trend is bigger beds I seen with more printers coming out with beds bigger than before thanks to better bed heating tech. Some have two bed heating elements so the middle is heated if small stuff done or the outer edge and middle if big stuff is printed? So even if some Voron's can print faster than some normal printers, I don't see the need to spend tons on a tiny bed faster printer. Just my take on the trend. I prefer to spend the big amount of money needed to buy the special parts and/or kit for a voron on instead a bigger bed 3D printer. Most Delta's can go fast if you are in need of such speeds. Even some Bed slinger's can really go faster if the hot end is a Volcano type hot end or high temp all metal hot end.
It's just a project really - it makes no sense to buy it unless you want a project kit to build a printer. Which apparently a lot of people do! Wait til you see the size of the bed on the neptune 3 max 😅
There are bigger vorons... Also this is a Open source printer that you should build, it is a Project and Hobby, but you also get a really good machine in the end. Also dont forget: the vorons are Out Here quite some time. And the other Producers of printers do learn ans get better over Time. If you only Print little Things or have little space--> you buy a little printer.
It's the combination of speed & reliability that makes them attractive. But I do agree that 120mm is smaller than I'd want. You still have to put in all the same effort as building a larger one. I guess it may come down to price. Or maybe physical space. Just think, if you're operating a print farm: Imagine you have several of these for every full size printer in your arsenal. You could route most prints to these, and use the larger printers for the fewer, larger, objects. In my mind, it makes a whole lot more sense than making a print farm with a shit ton of Enders (or similar), because for the same print volume you'll have fewer printers to maintain and, overall, fewer headaches.
After first watch I thought I knew the answer, but then realised I don't. After second watch I realised I didn't know the question 😅 I don't think I should be building one and you better not think I should build one either (I don't have opinion if you should, you know if you should, but it looks like a lot of work for, IDK, small fruit, or Wartburg you have put 2000 hours of work and it's still just Wartburg 😸). I'm printing parts for belted Z (Aliexpress stuff just arrived), but that's different, right 🤔 There are good economic printers with fairly little assembly required and all parts included in single box.
Should be using triangle shapes, not hexagons if you're building beams. Hexagons are strictly a minimum-material solution but only when used in honeycomb stress-skin structures where you care more about weight than strength. For OPEN beams and braces which are NOT enclosed between two skins and which are NOT going to orbit, you want diagonal bracing elements (se also conventional trusses) OR just use a bloody I-beam like a normal person and call it a day. OR, since you've got a 3D printer, you could, you know, STOP using open-cell structures for structural elements: make it a box beam full of gyroids or cubic etc infill and it will be strong and use less filament than your fancy looking, but lower-performing, hexagon shapes. I promise.
@@LostInTech3D far less screws. I had my 200mm^3 built in a day. And the instructions are very well produced. Once I store fighting even the klipper setup was simple
If you were incompetent the printer wouldn’t be functional. lol people just like to throw out insults for no reason. This was interesting. Also, I don’t know why LB is short for pounds but you know… American measurements lol.
13:00 - Huh, is that not just a "oh those wacky Americans" joke? Lb, as anyone should be able to tell from the letters, is short for pounds in the Imperial measurement system.
I do like that Lost in Tech talks about the realities of Linux and Linux installations. Of course your gonna have Linux weebs telling you its easy and straight forward to deal with Linux but they also have years and research dumped into just learning their OS.
It doesn't matter how incompetent you are if you are happy with the result.
I love my V0.1's. They are definitely challenging and like you it was my first Voron build so the manuals took some time for me to decrypt. They aren't the most practical but for cranking out parts they are little workhorses. Lots of great info and congrats on the completed build :)
Thanks! 🙂Yeah I think future voron stuff would be a lot easier now
@@LostInTech3D oh yeah. You already faced the final boss haha 😂. The rest will be like a walk in the park. Seriously I did the Switchwire and not having to worry about preloading was such a breath of fresh air.
v0 for your first voron; you guys are crazy 😜
@@KevinBrowderv0 was mine too. And it came out quite well!
@@jeffreyepiscopo wow, I loved building my 2.4 but the v0 seems like a whole other level of attention to detail
Glad to see this done! Was great to chat in the Discord about it too; hope that helped
Yes hugely useful, thanks for that!
well done, I appreciate your efforts and your honesty about building traps you encountered. It takes a strong character to share mistakes in such a public place.
Love the color scheme you chose. Yes Modbot does a great job explaining that.
Digging the EVA-01 Color scheme! I've been thinking of building an 0.2 just so I can get small detailed parts superfast. The sourcing by itself is already rather intimidating tbh...
get in the voron, shinji
the first print i will run when i build mine will be shinji crying on the chair.
Order yourself a kit instead. Still print the printed parts yourself but get the rest of the parts already sourced. So worth it.
Going through and enjoying your backlog of vids. Good stuff.
I've heard this is the hardest Voron to build, so congrats for getting this far! For an easier/more practical build the Trident (300 cubed from LDO) should be much easier.
Lol, Wish I knew that before I ~~suffered~~ built a V0 myself
It is! As how hard/tedious the voron printers are to assemble the order is 0.1 > 2.4 > Trident > Legacy > switchwire. The reasons the 0.1 is the most difficult one to assemble is mostly related to the fact that all the parts are smaller, from extrusions to screws , nuts and parts
@@mitsubishimakes 😂🎉.😂m😢🎉🎉😂😢😅😢😢😂😂
@@joshfaulty h
At the cost of that kit, I think I'd rightfully expect it to be fully assembled. At least the one I found, £1500? Yeah I'll pass
CongratulationsI Looks like a little beast of a printer. I just finished a RatRig V-Minion build. I went small because I rarely print anything larger than 15 cm in any dimension
Hey nice!!! I like it.. You make the printer like the most of the common people could do,not like all these influence 3d printer guys,some of them scares me sometime! You also are the first one that make a voron that talks or you could say sings!! At the end you could hear him ....
I'll be honest; at 10:19 I misread the sticker as "incontinence" and had a chuckle. I guess I now know what I've got to do with the Dymo label maker and my printer (which never quite seems to have enough retraction) .
I see why people are liking them: it's cuteness overload, especially when it's chirping happily in the end. A dedicated printer for printablok castles ^_^
Cuteness factor is actually way above the commercial printers, maybe except for SV06.
The no drop nuts really does make it a lot less fiddly - highly recommend using those :)
@13:55 the banging you say you heard may be caused by the drivers changing from stealthchop to spreadcycle when going above the 250mm/s threshold, maybe for travel moves. I'm just speculating here btw. The klipper documentation states that changing from stealthchop to spreacycle can cause such things and recommends to only run the printer in one mode or the other so either 0 or 9999999. Again I'm just speculating. Great build and waiting for more videos on it after you tunned the printer more and started putting that beast though it's paces!
Thanks for this mate; great intro for anyone pre-build on 0.1 or a 2.4 for that matter!
A few notes I may add for first time v2.4 & v0.1 builders:
I'm tackling my V2.4 right now and the 0.1 will be next. Glad I stumbled across this this video....and glad I decided to go for the v2.4 first, as the build process for the v2.4 seems to be a LOT less tedious (With roll-in T-nuts with the ball spring detents for m3's and m5's). As you noted in the video even on the v2.4 manual it took me about 4 or 5 pages get into the flow of the vernacular.
The vocabulary and the "unique intuitiveness" of the figures will lead you to mistakes but as you progress you will learn....it's idiosyncrasies become very apparent very quickly and you will start to enjoy the process the further you progress through the manual.
I also agree with you on not being afraid to run a drill bit through your parts for screw holes. I ran into a few M3 holes on my prints that the screw/bolt wouldn't drop straight through to the heat set inserts (slightly too tight) and thus the screw had to be screwed into and through the ABS before being able to thread into the heat set inserts on the other side. To overcome this (instead of drilling the hole out) I simply put my aluminum 1/4" bit driver right into the chuck of my m12 milwaukee drill on the lowest clutch setting with the right hex bit in it to drive them through; you could probably just chuck a 1/4" or 3/8" hex bit too. Then I hand tightened them down with a hex key for final torquing. This really sped up the agonizing process of running all TWENTY FOUR of the M3x40mm bolts all the way down through the ABS shell on all four of the z-drive assembly's. If I had to crank all 24x of those 40mm M3's into the ABS by hand my fingers would have fallen off.
Don't be afraid to improvise and use the tools you have on hand, you don't need to solely use hex keys cranking everything by hand to build the thing; though I would recommend driving the hex bolts in with power tools and snugging the bolts by hand to avoid over torquing things.
IMO the No-drop nuts mod seems to be the way to go on the V0.
Happy Voron building!
LDO kit for the Trident now has these "T Bar" things you slide into the 2020 for the linear rails which id say is pretty neat.
Nice job🎉 not an easy task to build one!
Thanks!👍
Loved the opening shots
I have one too and I love it, whatever fits on the build plate I do with it.
Yay! Another member of the "just tap the damn thing instead of rebuilding" club!
Calling this speed puppy an obsolete piece of hardware is downright insane. Beautiful build, btw. I would love to tackle something like that. I just got into 3d printing mostly for parts for my existing hobby of rc aerial models and most things I print are less than 120mm^3.
Oh yes definitely, I think its more my video being obsolete with the algorithm, the printer is definitely fine 🙂
i took it as him joking about about the timing of how just a week ago the v0.2 was announced lol look on aliexpress for voron kits! fystec posts on their as well as a few other reputable brands that have well into the hundreds of reviews by now with like minimum 4.8 star ratings
Reading technical drawings is a whole skill in itself. Some are made better and some are made worse. You just have to be able to read them carefully and infer some things correctly just due to experience.
Thank you for the banana for scale. Some of us Americans have a hard time with the metric system
Congrats! I think everything you laid out is fairly on point. Building printers can get repetitive. So can LEGO and IKEA. Hopefully this video dispels some myths about having everything perfect or it just won’t work. Z rail adjustment is a perfect example, you’re gonna have to adjust them later anyway. If you pay attention to the machine on first run, you can usually tell what needs to be adjusted. And since you just finished building the thing, you know exactly what to adjust and how.
Appreciate the comments, also thank you for all the work you've done! 👍💪
@@LostInTech3D Normally it is easy, align one rail then adjust the other to it.
Excellent videos as always!
Thank you! 🙂
Did you enjoy the process overall or just feel happy to finally be done with the build, haha? :) I always thought about building one but like you said some parts can be way too tedious. Maybe I will build The ROOK 3D printer instead, love the concept of it.
I'm interested in where the rook might be going, it's quite early with that one. Hard to say if I'm happy or relieved lol - but the printer does look nice!
Rook is super cool to build
@@LostInTech3D I'm biased AF but: Do it; specifically, have a chat with Rolohaun and the next steps for Rook, I hear he has quite a bit planned already and is working on it.
The banging noises come from the transition between stealthchop and spread cycle.
For me personally spreadcycle is less noisy as you spend significant amount of time above 200-250 mm/s and at that speed stealthchop will sound hella loud and ugly, lile skipped steps or collisions. The funny thing is the faster you go in spreadcycle, the lower the noise, 40mm/s is louder than 80mm/s, thats why my first layers are all set to 80 instead of 40.
Also with stealthchop you get skipped steps earlier due to speed. Sounds kinda dumb but i had to set z to spread cycle because i was getting skips due to the 2mm pitch leadscrew on my twotrees sapphire in the print start routine. That was at 20mm/s. Its seems you cant go over 10 Revolutions per second in stealthchop
Thats exactly what I was seeing, makes sense.
Hey, you're printing the left-facing bird from my Escher's birds and fishes in this video! That was a nice surprise.
You might find that this reproduces better details than the V400. That printer seems to smooth out details, according to reports. Overly aggressive input shaping, maybe.
Also, with a bit of work should should be able to hit much higher speeds than the V400. I believe the fastest speed benchy is on a modified V0 still.
Haha, I didn't think that was obvious from that angle but I guess you know it well 😂
It may be last gen, but it makes pretty damn nice next gen cute squeaky noises! =D
Well done really, i cant see myself putting one together tho haha.
Extrusion companies like Maytec make snap in spring loaded nuts that you can put into an assembled extrusion (aka preloading not necessary). They are like a T nut and the spring locks them in place keeping them from shifting all over. I highly recommend them. Probably cheaper than spending time printing nut holders.
really! I'll look for those!
you aint kidding. i used to work at a gas purification company and and assembled massive tank purification systems all with the frames and supports made of aluminum extrusion and spring loaded lock nuts. the spring nuts were absolutely amazing and made it possible to literally have a place to mount a bracket with a bolt going into the spring nut at any location you wanted. the possibilities were endless and i fell in love with aluminum extrusion and springs nuts lol with those two things (and a table saw) you could build virtually any structure you want. this was all many years ago before even 3d printing got big but working with aluminum extrusion and spring nuts with our printers brings me nostalgia and warms my soul lol
Very good honest overview mate 👍😊🇦🇺
Thanks 👍
Love the evangelion 01 color scheme :)
lb stands for "libra", some weird old Roman unit of weight.
Finally got mine working a few days ago. Going through the tuning now, and have decided I still regret starting the project. :p The 0.1/2 is the hardest of the voron lines to assemble according to others who have done all the different versions.
Note: In one point of my build, when I thought I had it all together and ready to go.. I had horrible binding issues and other issues.. lost my temper and threw the printer across the room. Left it in said heap for 3 months before I pulled it out and got it finally working properly.
hahaha
I've built a couple printers and CNC machines, and I have that same thought every time: "Is this going to work when I finish putting it together?" And yes, it does. Especially if you're building from a kit and know you have all the right parts. (The CNC that I tried to source myself was the exception, but it *did* eventually move properly... I've just never got up the energy to test it fully. lol)
The big bang sound was stealthchop switching to spreadcycle at a certain speed. Hybrid motor control is not well supported in Klipper
StealthChop effectively uses smaller microsteps, the torque in each microstep is lower but in the end it's the same torque in the steps. For example, a 1/64 step will have half as much torque as a 1/32 step... But 2 /64 steps will have the same torque as a single /32 step, as they're the same thing! The result is that doing two (or in the case of StealthChop, multiple) smaller steps increases the torque more gradually instead of suddenly "slamming on the accelerator", so it's quieter.
Great video and good info! As for the lb/lbs, it's referring to foot-pounds most likely. I want to say it would equate to m-kg or Newtons, but not 100% sure.
"MORON BUILDS A VORON" = instant like button
I've got the Super Racer from Flsun, it's been a wonderful printer.. I've upgraded everything :-) I'm printing PC / CF at 100mm/s at 20k acceleration. Voron's are cool, but I can watch my Delta put down plastic for hours..... good review
It speaks R2-D2 😃
I finish a V0.1 on the day V0.2 came out too, I didn't find the process tedious at all. In fact, it was the most fun project I have in a while. There are no nut drop mod for open beam extrusion, but you have to look around for it and it only 1 nut each.
Edit: also worth noting that I was a freak who did all the mods I can do on my very first Voron, thus half the instruction manual is irrelevant to me, so your mileage may vary.
Fucking legend😳
Is there a reason the Voron does not suggest T-slot spring nuts? They do not slide around. Very user friendly.
yeah I dunno, you could just use them, I guess.
I love that color scheme you got there. Are you by any chance a fan of Evangelion? 'Cause purple and green makes me think of EVA-01
I'm not....yet :)
Nice job. I've been debating on building a voron for fun. I think if I was going to put in the effort though I'd build the biggest build volume I could. Why not? if you're going to spend all that time might as well get something that beats most bed slingers.
Btw a thought struck me concerning the heat build up, Formfutura makes PLA that is heat resistant up to 95C after heat treating it (baking it in an oven basically). I haven't tried it yet due to real life getting in the way, but i have a spool at home ^^.
Just a thought for future builds that require something that can tolerate higher temps.
Also im not affiliated in any way, just figured id share (there are probably other companies doing this, but this one was the only one i know of).
I'll look into that!
I've heat treated regular PLA (actually the mount for my DD extruder is heat treated PLA) and it's pretty resistant to boiling water in my testing. Much more so than just regular PLA.
IIRC it was either Creality or eSun PLA+ filament.
@@LostInTech3D its called Volcano, that series of theirs, forgot to type it ^^
@@dalem04 Oh so you did it with just a "regular" PLA? That is very interesting!
Did it shrink a lot?
@@jubb1984 Well whatever the actual mix "PLA+" is yeah.
Shrinkage was very consistent with the right process (Slowly, over about an hour, both cooling and heating), IIRC it was something like minus 1-2% in the X/Y and plus 2% in Z (Yes, it grows in the Z direction). I was able to simply use scaling in Cura to get it right, with a bit of testing. Warping was kept minimal by very slowly raising temps and letting it soak along the way.
Heat treated PLA is actually really nice, if you can get it consistent. Much less brittle than regular PLA.
Okay after this Video i have made up my mind, ill build a voron 0
Only issue I would see when wanting to build one...its a small printer. Cool for a Core X/Y system you can get crazy nuts print speeds, might be interesting to build one as a portable printer.
So much crow.
For the algorithm 💪
I like you. I think you are very competent. =)
thank you :D
If ABS cracks or splits, just weld it with acetone! Don't touch glue...
Get in the 3D printer shinji.
I built a V0 when it came out and it was huge PITA to build it. Worse is that back then it was hard to build one that didn't suffer from a number of print quality issues. The current spec of the V0 address that, but I'm sure it's still annoying to build. The Voron 2.4 was easier to build than V0.
Haha yes I get the impression the 2.4 is less fiddly
I suppose it depends on your ability and patience, Personally found the V0 a fun build and prints really well.
@@thegarageluthier Also depends on the size of your hands, everything in the V0 is so tiny. If your hands are also tiny it's easier.
@@gihadmurad I'm a big lad it's why they invented needle nose pliers and tweezers 😉
@@thegarageluthier Now I have an image of a giant holding small tweezers 😂- If you ever build a 2.4 or even a Trident(even easier) you might change your mind, the consensus in the community is that they are both easier to build.
Nice Eva Unit-01
If you don't think people would sit here and watch hours of you getting frustrated with building a printer, you are mistaken 🤣
Haha, maybe when I get enough space to live stream!
When I see your "scene transition crow", I think of Russell Brand and half expect/anticipate **fart** audio. If you watch Russell Brand videos, you'll understand ...
Thanks for the Voron video ... great tips. I had been on the fence as to whether to build one or build the upside down 3D printer ( aka "printer in a filament box" ) Positron V3 by Kralyn3D. I have fallen off the fence and not building a Voron, probably not even the Positron V3.
trends come and go, I think less people will be interested in building a corexy as you can now just buy one, but it's still a cool thing to do, just for the sake of it, if you're that way inclined.
Ironically this is probably the hardest VORON to build 🙂 But congratulation on finishing it. Have you submit your serial number request already? 🙂
Not yet! I realise I can just link the whole video 🤣
@@LostInTech3D Technically yes 😀 But would need to know it's you on Reddit and not somebody else just linking your video 🙂 BTW I loved the "Last In Tech" pun 😀
Those motors in the fysetc kit do very badly with stealthchop, mine did the same thing when I used the default config from them. Honestly they should set the config in their github to have it off by default.
yes! I dont know why they have those settings!
@@LostInTech3D I also found their suggestion for the current for the extruder motor was too low and I had to push it significantly higher to get good results. Either way it was a solid kit (not as nice as ldo but decent and a lot cheaper). Congrats on the build and welcome to the club!
4:50 it says it though, it says that hole is M3.
lb is a pound because that's how Imperial measurement rolls
If a part split and you followed the manual and used ABS, do not use superglue, use acetone!
You use superglue. No need to over complicate things.
Abs can actually be used without any problem up to 100 c
How much do you think it cost to build? £
Nice printer for an incompetent. I experienced the motor knocking thing when building a mk3s clone using a mellow fly board, those 2209 drivers are strange.
I think you are the opposite of me. I enjoyed the mechanical build, found it all very easy to follow. But was annoyed by the electronics and software bit.
Regarding belt tension, have you seen the video from Prorifi3D about it?
Sounds like R2-D2 arguing with himself. :) (End part of the video)
Who cares if it’s not perfect, at least you had a go, and it works I know I could not do in fat fingers and no patience.
Thanks doc
3:10 _"Irregardless??"_ Maybe we should lobby to have this word put in the dictionary. Irregardless, this is a beautiful printer.
It already is a legit word, which is why I use it to annoy people 😂
@@LostInTech3D You're right, I just looked it up in the _legit_ dictionary. It was captioned underneath your picture.
use creailty sonic pad works for most 3d printers now
I have the flsun one in for review
if that's your 2nd fastest printer - what's the fastest?
FLSUN v400. It mainly has the advantage of a better hotend.
@@LostInTech3D could/would this one be faster with a better hot end? (I'm very new to 3D printing)
Better late than never. 🎉
Haha, yeah 😅
thought about building one but im far too lazy
Hahaha, all I got from the start of the video is "Help, instructions unclear, nuts stuck in printer frame." 🤣
lb is the good old British Pound and ounces weights. lb is the pounds, oz are the ounces.
Not sounding bad here, But the Voron seems pointless to me when the bed size is tiny compared to even the smallest modern 3D printers!
Even the over priced Prusa Mini has a bigger sized bed than this one.
The trend is bigger beds I seen with more printers coming out with beds bigger than before thanks to better bed heating tech.
Some have two bed heating elements so the middle is heated if small stuff done or the outer edge and middle if big stuff is printed?
So even if some Voron's can print faster than some normal printers, I don't see the need to spend tons on a tiny bed faster printer.
Just my take on the trend. I prefer to spend the big amount of money needed to buy the special parts and/or kit for a voron on instead a bigger bed 3D printer.
Most Delta's can go fast if you are in need of such speeds. Even some Bed slinger's can really go faster if the hot end is a Volcano type hot end or high temp all metal hot end.
It's just a project really - it makes no sense to buy it unless you want a project kit to build a printer. Which apparently a lot of people do!
Wait til you see the size of the bed on the neptune 3 max 😅
good thing the v0.1 is only $339.... thats really not "big money" at all when it comes to printers. i dont get your argument against it
There are bigger vorons...
Also this is a Open source printer that you should build, it is a Project and Hobby, but you also get a really good machine in the end. Also dont forget: the vorons are Out Here quite some time. And the other Producers of printers do learn ans get better over Time.
If you only Print little Things or have little space--> you buy a little printer.
It's the combination of speed & reliability that makes them attractive. But I do agree that 120mm is smaller than I'd want. You still have to put in all the same effort as building a larger one. I guess it may come down to price. Or maybe physical space. Just think, if you're operating a print farm: Imagine you have several of these for every full size printer in your arsenal. You could route most prints to these, and use the larger printers for the fewer, larger, objects.
In my mind, it makes a whole lot more sense than making a print farm with a shit ton of Enders (or similar), because for the same print volume you'll have fewer printers to maintain and, overall, fewer headaches.
engagement. have some
You didn't answer the title of the video....
I did!
After first watch I thought I knew the answer, but then realised I don't. After second watch I realised I didn't know the question 😅
I don't think I should be building one and you better not think I should build one either (I don't have opinion if you should, you know if you should, but it looks like a lot of work for, IDK, small fruit, or Wartburg you have put 2000 hours of work and it's still just Wartburg 😸).
I'm printing parts for belted Z (Aliexpress stuff just arrived), but that's different, right 🤔
There are good economic printers with fairly little assembly required and all parts included in single box.
@@LostInTech3D well I just didn't hear it then. Thanks for the content, loved it.
Ok now do a rook
Rook looks easy!
if you haven't named it yet i hope you name it barney (this is actually my favorite color combo and I might build one in the same scheme lol)
hahaha okay it's a deal
you erned my like
Your speed test could be a spiral poop; as an award for the feeble-minded who suggest you are incompetent. Silky PLA would come out nicely.
Hehe
A la hetsu's gift from breath of the wild?
Should be using triangle shapes, not hexagons if you're building beams. Hexagons are strictly a minimum-material solution but only when used in honeycomb stress-skin structures where you care more about weight than strength. For OPEN beams and braces which are NOT enclosed between two skins and which are NOT going to orbit, you want diagonal bracing elements (se also conventional trusses) OR just use a bloody I-beam like a normal person and call it a day. OR, since you've got a 3D printer, you could, you know, STOP using open-cell structures for structural elements: make it a box beam full of gyroids or cubic etc infill and it will be strong and use less filament than your fancy looking, but lower-performing, hexagon shapes. I promise.
Is that a message for the Voron team? 😛
I think all the hexagon pieces are just aesthetic and not load bearing.
@@Dystrackshun yea they definetly arent load bearing idk what that guy is on about lol chill out man itll all be ok
Time for a ratrig 3.1
Actually, I'm tempted. Is it harder or easier than this?
@@LostInTech3D far less screws. I had my 200mm^3 built in a day. And the instructions are very well produced. Once I store fighting even the klipper setup was simple
I want one too, It's so expensive tho!
sounds good tbh!
the print quality is not the best for sure
If you were incompetent the printer wouldn’t be functional. lol people just like to throw out insults for no reason. This was interesting. Also, I don’t know why LB is short for pounds but you know… American measurements lol.
13:00 - Huh, is that not just a "oh those wacky Americans" joke? Lb, as anyone should be able to tell from the letters, is short for pounds in the Imperial measurement system.
haha, it wasn't aimed directly at the americans, after all, we invented it
@@LostInTech3D Hah! That's true. People often forget that tidbit. We also got the term 'Soccer' from England and refused to give it up, if I recall.
An lb is a pound
Just like assembling the original Ender 3.
Haha slightly more involved but yeah
LB is pounds
pounds.....Lb is pounds.....
3:06 thank me later
🔩🥜
pounds
lol, who wears gloves to build a printer?
All the cool people do. It's more professional 😉
The waffle house has found its new host.
I do like that Lost in Tech talks about the realities of Linux and Linux installations. Of course your gonna have Linux weebs telling you its easy and straight forward to deal with Linux but they also have years and research dumped into just learning their OS.
y'all struggle with the nuts.. USE T NUTS they are cheap af
Hahaha - now go try to build a voron 0 with t nuts and report back
@@LostInTech3D actually i built 2 of them one for me an one for a robotics team and it's been over a year and no problems :)