That's fun with the afterburner I've been working fine. It hink you had bad calibration of Z switch, anyway you made good upgrades, Tap is better than the microswitch. Thanks for your video!
Nice Job, i got a voron 2.4 aswell, just also trying to go fast with it, most of those mods i already got - even tho they are not yet all configured, now about to install watercooling onto my 4 awd motors... xD (yeah some could say its partially overkill) you gained yourself another subscriber mate ;)
Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: th-cam.com/video/U1onfGroUJI/w-d-xo.html In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner
You could have a softening script. The old tazbots used the nozzle to touch off on the metal corners of the bed, they would heat up just enough to make the plastic malleable before homing and not interfere with probing
Expect to be making the switch to the CNC Tap at any moment's notice 🤔 I for one couldn't get satisfying long-term results with the 3D Printed one due to the hot Extruder Air promoting Material Creep near the Screws on the now much thinner 2-Piece Carrier.
I saw some discussion that TAP moves the nozzle far enough forward that you can't use a nozzle cleaner but apparently you don't have this problem. I installed the Chaotic Labs CNC TAP and using TAP, a clean nozzle is a must. Did you have to make special adjustments to use your nozzle cleaner with TAP
@@scheffield I found that the Chaotic Labs CNC TAP affects the y offset very minimally. I printed the parts, updated my config and it works very well. Thanks!
And now I've found that the wiper hits the toolhead during the bed mesh sequence. I only found out when I printed a gridfinity base that used most of the bed.
I need to stop watching videos how to upgrade/fix Vorons and finally fix my own Trident's tool head. This was entertaining, well done. Would you mind sharing the nozzle cleaner you designed? It looked quite slick.
Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: th-cam.com/video/U1onfGroUJI/w-d-xo.html In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner
Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: th-cam.com/video/U1onfGroUJI/w-d-xo.html In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner
What slicer do you use and would you be able to share you start print g code from the printer and the slicer? Ever since I went to tap with orca slicer I cannot get the nozzle to reheat on its own once it’s done probing
Your slicer should juat call the print start macro from your printer.cfg, that way you control everything from a single source. Heres mine, if it helps: # Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script [gcode_macro PRINT_START] gcode: {% set EXTRUDER_TEMP = first_layer_temperature|default(220)|float %} {% set BED_TEMP = first_layer_bed_temperature|default(65)|float %} EXCLUDE_OBJECT_DEFINE M140 S{BED_TEMP} ; start bed heating SET_PIN PIN=caselight VALUE=0.50 ; turns on overhead lights to 50% G32 ; home all axes G90 ; absolute positioning M83 ; extruder relative mode M190 S{BED_TEMP} ; wait for bed to reach temperature BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ; Runs a mesh bed calibration--referance Adaptive_Mesh.cfg G1 Z20 F3000 ; move nozzle away from bed Smart_Park ; part of the KAMP system. Parks head near edge of mesh for final heading. M104 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP} ; start extruder heating M109 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP} ; wait for extruder to reach temperature SET_LED LED="headlight" RED=0 GREEN=0 BLUE=0 WHITE=0.5137 SYNC=0 TRANSMIT=1 ; turn on headlight to 131
Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: th-cam.com/video/U1onfGroUJI/w-d-xo.html In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner
Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: th-cam.com/video/U1onfGroUJI/w-d-xo.html In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner
I was considering building a voron too. I have a cr10 max 2x cr10 pro V2 a flsun super racer 2 anycubic ender clones, and a couple of resin machines. This is exactly why a voron is better as you can adapt and upgrade. But I am highly tempted with the bamboo, but the size of the build plate is an issue for me. I like to set groups of 10 items and print those groups 1 at a time so the printer just churns stuff out with little to no interactions. The 350 mm buildplate would be better for me I think. Ohh but the simplicity of the bamboo. I'm tied on what to get.
I do love the idea of it all being open and customisable, is your voron reliable, does it print really well 95 % of the time, or are you constantly fiddling with the thing to get it running correctly. ? @@scheffield
@3:20 I have to disagree; your nozzle has to be clean, otherwise ooze is offsetting you measurement. For me a 3d-touch or clicky probe is a prefered method
@@Zigzag3269tf Ofcourse, but there will still be a slight amount of (molten) filament underneat the nozzle when probing. This can upset your measurements. Remember we're talking 0.05 mm that coulc make a huge difference.
I can not get behind Bamboo at all, they have benefited from years of opensource development, put forward a closed source, software locked printer, giving nothing back to the people who did all the work to figure out proper high speed printing. Coupled with their price, there really is no point. The Voron 2.4 R2 when properly built is a MUCH better printer than the Bamboo offerings. Add an ERCF, and get upto 16 filament, multi filament printing.
I'm really keen to build an ERCF but I'm a bit intimidated by it. Also, I would want to encase the filament for moisture management, not sure that's possible.
@@jamesm3268 because I have used Bamboo printers, it was aggravating. I tried to setup a time lapse system using a dslr so we could make 8k time lapses, something extremely simple with klipper, slightly harder with marlin, apparently completely impossible on Bamboo. That coupled with the recall of the A1 resulting in people not having a printer for up to a year, tells me that the "never doesn't work" printer is not worth it at all.
i want a voron so bad.. i think i might take the dive... bambus make me so mad lol the color switches SUCKS!!! 2 hour prints take 12 hrs its a no go.. not worth it... we need a better solution for multi color
Such a refreshing video, great work!
Love the video! I would love to make a voron so I'll note everything in this video. I can't wait to see more in the future!
You can easily make the voron print circles around the bambu. Print the monolith 4WD gantry with an archetype toolhead.
That extruder is beautiful also!!
Totally agree, love how it all came together and turned out.
That's fun with the afterburner I've been working fine. It hink you had bad calibration of Z switch, anyway you made good upgrades, Tap is better than the microswitch. Thanks for your video!
Nice Job, i got a voron 2.4 aswell, just also trying to go fast with it, most of those mods i already got - even tho they are not yet all configured, now about to install watercooling onto my 4 awd motors... xD
(yeah some could say its partially overkill)
you gained yourself another subscriber mate ;)
Nice work! Any chance you could post the nozzle cleaning stl somewhere? Pretty neat idea!
Yes, should be a quick one. I'll update the video description once I created a repo.
@@scheffield any update? Planning on doing some upgrade/maintenience on my 2.4 this week and would like to change from the brass brush to this
Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: th-cam.com/video/U1onfGroUJI/w-d-xo.html
In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner
How do you account for any plastic oozing from the nozzle that could affect probing results?
You could have a softening script. The old tazbots used the nozzle to touch off on the metal corners of the bed, they would heat up just enough to make the plastic malleable before homing and not interfere with probing
Expect to be making the switch to the CNC Tap at any moment's notice 🤔
I for one couldn't get satisfying long-term results with the 3D Printed one due to the hot Extruder Air promoting Material Creep near the Screws on the now much thinner 2-Piece Carrier.
How did you manage to get rid of layer lines? Was it belt related?
Could be but I ultimately think the new Galileo 2 extruder did the trick.
I saw some discussion that TAP moves the nozzle far enough forward that you can't use a nozzle cleaner but apparently you don't have this problem. I installed the Chaotic Labs CNC TAP and using TAP, a clean nozzle is a must. Did you have to make special adjustments to use your nozzle cleaner with TAP
@@jluvs2ride yes, I had to move the bed forward. But I found there is enough travel to cover the bed and hit the cleaner.
@@scheffield I was hoping to avoid shifting the bed.
@@scheffield I found that the Chaotic Labs CNC TAP affects the y offset very minimally. I printed the parts, updated my config and it works very well. Thanks!
And now I've found that the wiper hits the toolhead during the bed mesh sequence. I only found out when I printed a gridfinity base that used most of the bed.
I need to stop watching videos how to upgrade/fix Vorons and finally fix my own Trident's tool head. This was entertaining, well done. Would you mind sharing the nozzle cleaner you designed? It looked quite slick.
Doing this upgrade today.
Great video is the parts you created Wipe and build plate stopper available to download thanks for sharing
Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: th-cam.com/video/U1onfGroUJI/w-d-xo.html
In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner
where can i download your design for cleaning nozzle thank you
Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: th-cam.com/video/U1onfGroUJI/w-d-xo.html
In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner
What slicer do you use and would you be able to share you start print g code from the printer and the slicer? Ever since I went to tap with orca slicer I cannot get the nozzle to reheat on its own once it’s done probing
Your slicer should juat call the print start macro from your printer.cfg, that way you control everything from a single source.
Heres mine, if it helps:
# Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script
[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
gcode:
{% set EXTRUDER_TEMP = first_layer_temperature|default(220)|float %}
{% set BED_TEMP = first_layer_bed_temperature|default(65)|float %}
EXCLUDE_OBJECT_DEFINE
M140 S{BED_TEMP} ; start bed heating
SET_PIN PIN=caselight VALUE=0.50 ; turns on overhead lights to 50%
G32 ; home all axes
G90 ; absolute positioning
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M190 S{BED_TEMP} ; wait for bed to reach temperature
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ; Runs a mesh bed calibration--referance Adaptive_Mesh.cfg
G1 Z20 F3000 ; move nozzle away from bed
Smart_Park ; part of the KAMP system. Parks head near edge of mesh for final heading.
M104 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP} ; start extruder heating
M109 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP} ; wait for extruder to reach temperature
SET_LED LED="headlight" RED=0 GREEN=0 BLUE=0 WHITE=0.5137 SYNC=0 TRANSMIT=1 ; turn on headlight to 131
Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: th-cam.com/video/U1onfGroUJI/w-d-xo.html
In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner
Would also love a link to the nozzle cleaner.
Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: th-cam.com/video/U1onfGroUJI/w-d-xo.html
In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner
I was considering building a voron too. I have a cr10 max 2x cr10 pro V2 a flsun super racer 2 anycubic ender clones, and a couple of resin machines. This is exactly why a voron is better as you can adapt and upgrade. But I am highly tempted with the bamboo, but the size of the build plate is an issue for me. I like to set groups of 10 items and print those groups 1 at a time so the printer just churns stuff out with little to no interactions. The 350 mm buildplate would be better for me I think. Ohh but the simplicity of the bamboo. I'm tied on what to get.
There has been rumours about an X1 Max. That might be the right one for you when it becomes reality.
I do love the idea of it all being open and customisable, is your voron reliable, does it print really well 95 % of the time, or are you constantly fiddling with the thing to get it running correctly. ?
@@scheffield
I think the tap would work better with a flexure rather than a short rail. Flexures have zero friction, sticktion and backlash.
@3:20 I have to disagree; your nozzle has to be clean, otherwise ooze is offsetting you measurement. For me a 3d-touch or clicky probe is a prefered method
Just heat up the nozzle
@@Zigzag3269tf Ofcourse, but there will still be a slight amount of (molten) filament underneat the nozzle when probing. This can upset your measurements. Remember we're talking 0.05 mm that coulc make a huge difference.
I can not get behind Bamboo at all, they have benefited from years of opensource development, put forward a closed source, software locked printer, giving nothing back to the people who did all the work to figure out proper high speed printing. Coupled with their price, there really is no point. The Voron 2.4 R2 when properly built is a MUCH better printer than the Bamboo offerings. Add an ERCF, and get upto 16 filament, multi filament printing.
I'm really keen to build an ERCF but I'm a bit intimidated by it. Also, I would want to encase the filament for moisture management, not sure that's possible.
@@scheffield It is, with exception of the retraction slack spool. Should be fine for even the most hydroscopic filaments like CF Nylons
Yeah Bambu scares me bro 🤣
How do you know its better if you don't even own a bambu 😂. I have both and the bambu x1c just works. Stop being a white knight and enjoy the hobby.
@@jamesm3268 because I have used Bamboo printers, it was aggravating. I tried to setup a time lapse system using a dslr so we could make 8k time lapses, something extremely simple with klipper, slightly harder with marlin, apparently completely impossible on Bamboo. That coupled with the recall of the A1 resulting in people not having a printer for up to a year, tells me that the "never doesn't work" printer is not worth it at all.
hey, if you ever have a printer sitting around stacking dust i could of cause help you with that problem! :)
are you sure it is need some cleaning!! some!? 😁
voron users be like we will reduce x beam weight to put a fan to cool leds on printhead
i want a voron so bad.. i think i might take the dive... bambus make me so mad lol the color switches SUCKS!!! 2 hour prints take 12 hrs its a no go.. not worth it... we need a better solution for multi color