Upgrading the Voron
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.พ. 2024
- I finally get some time to upgrade my Voron. This includes switching the old Afterburner for a fancy StealthBurner, fixing some issues with the filament path and creating a nozzel cleaning mechanism that works for me.
Parts used
Tap kit: store.dremc.com.au/products/v...
Galileo 2 kit: store.dremc.com.au/products/l...
PCBs: store.dremc.com.au/products/l...
Camera: store.dremc.com.au/products/c...
Thermistor: store.dremc.com.au/products/1...
PTFE tube: store.dremc.com.au/products/p...
Platforms
GitHub: github.com/scheffield
Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/scheffiel...
Instagram: / scheffield
Website: digitalme.co - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Such a refreshing video, great work!
Love the video! I would love to make a voron so I'll note everything in this video. I can't wait to see more in the future!
That's fun with the afterburner I've been working fine. It hink you had bad calibration of Z switch, anyway you made good upgrades, Tap is better than the microswitch. Thanks for your video!
That extruder is beautiful also!!
Totally agree, love how it all came together and turned out.
You can easily make the voron print circles around the bambu. Print the monolith 4WD gantry with an archetype toolhead.
Expect to be making the switch to the CNC Tap at any moment's notice 🤔
I for one couldn't get satisfying long-term results with the 3D Printed one due to the hot Extruder Air promoting Material Creep near the Screws on the now much thinner 2-Piece Carrier.
Nice Job, i got a voron 2.4 aswell, just also trying to go fast with it, most of those mods i already got - even tho they are not yet all configured, now about to install watercooling onto my 4 awd motors... xD
(yeah some could say its partially overkill)
you gained yourself another subscriber mate ;)
I think the tap would work better with a flexure rather than a short rail. Flexures have zero friction, sticktion and backlash.
Nice work! Any chance you could post the nozzle cleaning stl somewhere? Pretty neat idea!
Yes, should be a quick one. I'll update the video description once I created a repo.
@@scheffield any update? Planning on doing some upgrade/maintenience on my 2.4 this week and would like to change from the brass brush to this
Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: th-cam.com/video/U1onfGroUJI/w-d-xo.html
In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner
I was considering building a voron too. I have a cr10 max 2x cr10 pro V2 a flsun super racer 2 anycubic ender clones, and a couple of resin machines. This is exactly why a voron is better as you can adapt and upgrade. But I am highly tempted with the bamboo, but the size of the build plate is an issue for me. I like to set groups of 10 items and print those groups 1 at a time so the printer just churns stuff out with little to no interactions. The 350 mm buildplate would be better for me I think. Ohh but the simplicity of the bamboo. I'm tied on what to get.
There has been rumours about an X1 Max. That might be the right one for you when it becomes reality.
I do love the idea of it all being open and customisable, is your voron reliable, does it print really well 95 % of the time, or are you constantly fiddling with the thing to get it running correctly. ?
@@scheffield
What slicer do you use and would you be able to share you start print g code from the printer and the slicer? Ever since I went to tap with orca slicer I cannot get the nozzle to reheat on its own once it’s done probing
Your slicer should juat call the print start macro from your printer.cfg, that way you control everything from a single source.
Heres mine, if it helps:
# Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script
[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
gcode:
{% set EXTRUDER_TEMP = first_layer_temperature|default(220)|float %}
{% set BED_TEMP = first_layer_bed_temperature|default(65)|float %}
EXCLUDE_OBJECT_DEFINE
M140 S{BED_TEMP} ; start bed heating
SET_PIN PIN=caselight VALUE=0.50 ; turns on overhead lights to 50%
G32 ; home all axes
G90 ; absolute positioning
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M190 S{BED_TEMP} ; wait for bed to reach temperature
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ; Runs a mesh bed calibration--referance Adaptive_Mesh.cfg
G1 Z20 F3000 ; move nozzle away from bed
Smart_Park ; part of the KAMP system. Parks head near edge of mesh for final heading.
M104 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP} ; start extruder heating
M109 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP} ; wait for extruder to reach temperature
SET_LED LED="headlight" RED=0 GREEN=0 BLUE=0 WHITE=0.5137 SYNC=0 TRANSMIT=1 ; turn on headlight to 131
Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: th-cam.com/video/U1onfGroUJI/w-d-xo.html
In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner
Great video is the parts you created Wipe and build plate stopper available to download thanks for sharing
Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: th-cam.com/video/U1onfGroUJI/w-d-xo.html
In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner
How do you account for any plastic oozing from the nozzle that could affect probing results?
You could have a softening script. The old tazbots used the nozzle to touch off on the metal corners of the bed, they would heat up just enough to make the plastic malleable before homing and not interfere with probing
How did you manage to get rid of layer lines? Was it belt related?
Could be but I ultimately think the new Galileo 2 extruder did the trick.
Would also love a link to the nozzle cleaner.
Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: th-cam.com/video/U1onfGroUJI/w-d-xo.html
In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner
where can i download your design for cleaning nozzle thank you
Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: th-cam.com/video/U1onfGroUJI/w-d-xo.html
In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner
are you sure it is need some cleaning!! some!? 😁
I can not get behind Bamboo at all, they have benefited from years of opensource development, put forward a closed source, software locked printer, giving nothing back to the people who did all the work to figure out proper high speed printing. Coupled with their price, there really is no point. The Voron 2.4 R2 when properly built is a MUCH better printer than the Bamboo offerings. Add an ERCF, and get upto 16 filament, multi filament printing.
I'm really keen to build an ERCF but I'm a bit intimidated by it. Also, I would want to encase the filament for moisture management, not sure that's possible.
@@scheffield It is, with exception of the retraction slack spool. Should be fine for even the most hydroscopic filaments like CF Nylons
Yeah Bambu scares me bro 🤣
How do you know its better if you don't even own a bambu 😂. I have both and the bambu x1c just works. Stop being a white knight and enjoy the hobby.
@@jamesm3268 because I have used Bamboo printers, it was aggravating. I tried to setup a time lapse system using a dslr so we could make 8k time lapses, something extremely simple with klipper, slightly harder with marlin, apparently completely impossible on Bamboo. That coupled with the recall of the A1 resulting in people not having a printer for up to a year, tells me that the "never doesn't work" printer is not worth it at all.
voron users be like we will reduce x beam weight to put a fan to cool leds on printhead
i want a voron so bad.. i think i might take the dive... bambus make me so mad lol the color switches SUCKS!!! 2 hour prints take 12 hrs its a no go.. not worth it... we need a better solution for multi color