All Steps of the Auto Body Repair Process - Start to Finish
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ธ.ค. 2022
- Shows every step from start to finish of the auto body repair process that every dent, scratch or chip must go through. Tools, materials and Lakeside Merch below -
🔥 Blow Gun - Campbell Hausfeld Steel Air Blow Gun Mfr # MP514300AV
🔥 Rubber Gloves - Harbor Freight - www.harborfreight.com/5-mil-n...
🔥 Wax and Grease Remover - Auto Body Master 5900
🔥 Grinder - 5" high speed sander - example: ASTRO PNEUMATIC 222S 5" HIGH SPEED SANDER
🔥 Sanding/Grinding Disc - 7" X 7/8" ALUMINUM OXIDE RESIN FIBER DISC 36 grit - benchmarkabrasives.com/collec...
🔥 Silver Die Grinder - Mac Tools
🔥 Cut Off Wheel for die grinder - Harbor Freight - 3 in. x 1/16 in. x 3/8 in. Metal Cut-off Wheels
🔥 Blue Die Grinder - Astro Pneumatic 1205 Mini Air Die Grinder - 1/4
🔥 Bit for die grinder - round burr bit
🔥 Filler - Auto Body Master light weight body filler
🔥 Mixing Board - brothersdesignsmi.com/shop-al...
🔥 Metal Spreaders - Coster Steel Auto Body Spreaders, 3 Steel Spreaders - 4"
🔥 Cheese Grater Blade for shaving down filler fast - Stanley 21-299 Half Round Surform Blade
🔥 Sanding Block - Rubber 5"
🔥 Sand Paper - Indasa 40 grit long board paper (roll of non stick)
🔥 1st DA - National Detroit w/ 120 grit Mirka sticky back 5" round DA sand paper
🔥 2nd DA - www.amazon.com/Random-Orbital... w/ Mirka hook and loop 220 or 240 grit.
🔥 Primer Gun - Binks 2001 w/ 1.8 mm tip at 22-25 psi
🔥 Primer - Auto Body Master lacquer primer surfacer
🔥 Spray Bomb Primer - Rustoleum Grey Primer from Ace Hardware
🔥 Paint - Paintforcars - paintforcars.com/product/midn...
🔥 Lakeside Merch - brothersdesignsmi.com/shop-al...
🔥 Lakeside Discord (pics of your projects) - / discord
🔥 Lakeside Autobody - / lakesideautobody - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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You sure taught us a lot in only 10 minutes, Jerry! I will keep this video in my saved autobody files for future reference.
Thanks Uncle Mark - every job goes through this same procedure so it's good to remember. Like there are right steps to doing an oil change - miss one or two - you got problems. Happy Holidays my good friend 🎄❄🎄😊
@@LakesideAutobody You are so right about following the steps. You take care as well, Jerry.
Same
@@poydapoyderson646 Jerry is very good at teaching and explaining these processes without dragging it out. I have learned so much by watching these videos.
Thank you for sharing your experience, I’ve leaned so much and I’ve been taking notes. No one explains like you do
Excellent explanation and work👍
Thanks Israel - I appreciate the kind words and support 😊
Thank you Jerry for a great year! Looking forward to your stuff next year. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and all of your family 👪
You're welcome GM and thanks for the support this last year - always a pleasure to hear from you my friend. Merry Christmas to you and yours too 🎄❄🎄😊
Excellent video tutorial! Well Explained, well demonstrated, concise/to the point and no bull.. Exactly what you want to see in any good DIY guide video!
Cheers from London 👍🏴🇬🇧
Great to hear ABC. How's living in London - things are getting weird here in USA. Not sure what force is behind it all 🥴
Great video very informative. A lot of useful info. In a short time . Thanks Jerry
You're welcome Bob - I appreciate the support my friend - Merry Christmas to you and your family :)
Very well done Jerry! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family.
Merry Christmas to you and Layne - Hopefully she is doing much better. Wish you all the best my friend. 🎄🎄🎄😀
Great video. Nicely explainned
You make it look so easy. I have a big project coming up in the future and will be using your advice. Thanks
Thanks Rusty and you're welcome - good luck on your project - have fun and ask questions if you need - Happy Holidays 🎄❄🎄❄🎄😊
Thank you. That's what I was looking for. Very good tools and simple steps
You're welcome Pedro :)
Isn't 240 a bit coarse for your finishing sanding pass before applying paint? I would think you'd want to go up to at least 400 before laying down some paint? Can you enlighten?
240 is fine for what he used to paint, which was probably a single stage paint which is thicker than a base coat type paint
Excellent demo. Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas to you to Bruce 🎄❄🎄🏈😊
Excellent video tutorial!
👍💯✌
Hey Jerry
Nice concise rundown Amigo.
FELIZ NAVIDAD
Thanks JC - I appreciate the support my friend. Merry Christmas to you too 🎄❄🎄🏈😊
You make body work look so easy and easy to follow instructions…Thank You
You're welcome and thanks for the support. Have a great week Golfcon :)
Thanks for this complete step by step guide
You're welcome Ike - Happy Holidays 🎄❄🎄😊
Great demo. Quick but alot of info. 👍👍👍
Happy Holidays PSG - thanks for always watching :)
Thanks for the lesson and for the good tips and info!👍 Thanks for the video
No problem 👍 Happy Holidays ❄🎄❄
The wizard and all his tips and tricks. Thank You.
You're welcome Ole G - Happy Holidays 🎄❄🎄
I been Applying Jerry’s auto body into my auto body well basically getting rid of my auto body I have gotten super fast . Great teacher I called him the only man on TH-cam that actually teaches Autobody thanks Jerry you have a merry Christmas and happy holidays and a happy new year
I appreciate that HAF - a nice Christmas present.🎄🎄 Happy to hear the videos help you to pick up some speed. Merry Christmas to you to my friend and your family 🎄❄🎄😊
@@LakesideAutobody thanks you been a great help for me . Best wishes for you in the new year . And again Jerry you are the only person on TH-cam that is actually teaching like a teacher .you actually even sound like one . Your explanations are crystal clear. 😎👍
@@hobbyautobodyfun9315 Thanks again my friend - that makes my day 👍
Always enjoy your methodology
Thanks Doug - appreciate the comment. Happy Holidays my friend 🎄❄🎄😊
and this is why I am subb'd straight to the point no BS. Thank you!
You're welcome :)
Excelente job Jerry you really make a great teacher I have learn so much watching 👀 you my friend thank you for sharing your knowledge
Thanks 👍 FGG. I appreciate that. Happy Holidays to you and your family 🎄❄🎄😊
@@LakesideAutobody same too you and lots of blessings
This awesome. I just got vehicle and was sideswiped. I love the detail ty
Glad it helped :)
Very good. Straight to the point
Thanks Cecil - much appreciated :)
jerry great job as usual . jerry merry christmas to you and your family and god bless.
Merry Christmas to you David and your family 🎄❄🎄
Excellent, much needed for me.
Cool - glad it helped you :)
thank you for this video. just what i wanted to see.
You're welcome Alex - Happy Holidays🎄
Another Great video keep up the good work
Thanks Brad. I've got some work to do ahead of me so there'll be a bunch of them :)
I like links added on the screen for your previous in depth videos of each step of repair
I'm glad you let me know that - thanks. 🎄❄🎄
A lot of work you guys have to go thru but it sure does look good when done.
Just got back with some 40for my block 👍🏻👊🏻
Beautiful illustration on doing professional body work Jerry 👌
Thanks Vicshone - nice to hear from you - have a good Christmas 🎄❄🎄😊
@@LakesideAutobody Merry Christmas to you too Jerry have a good one 👍
Great tutorial, now I need to learn to paint, mix, spray everything.
Thanks Tim - I've got some vids on that too ❄🎄❄
Perfect
Fantastic video
Thanks John :)
Nice work bud !!!
Thanks Curtis - Merry Christmas to you and your family 🎄❄🎄😊
Great step by step video Jerry!
Thanks UPK - Happy Holidays to you and your family 🎄❄🎄 🏈Go Lions!
@@LakesideAutobody Happy Holidays to you and your family as well!
That’s great .
Pulled the Binks off the shelf for this one!👍
Yep - feel bad about just letting them sit. Gotta keep them in the mix :)
This is a save thank you
Glad to hear it Dana - have a good weekend :)
Great videos
Thanks Jim - Happy Holidays 🎄❄🏈❄🎄😊
Oh man I've learned so much and it shows in the work!
Thank you a million times !
I've got that fiberglass kit car I'm doing that's really warped up.
Anyway, I did a "semi sorta final prime" on the left side I was getting the body lines corrected.
It's where the rear cab window wraps around to the door ,and the joint where the fender tops meet.
It came out so good ,I've got to go back to the other side because I did that before watching your vids and I can see it's not as good.
I'm doing a few sections like this while it is half built ,as the areas are gonna be difficult when it's assembled.
The right side is assembled, and I gotta go back now but I should be able to persevere and win.
I'm just trying to get it straight enough, prime it and assemble the car so I can drive it this summer.
Looking at all the bodywork it'll need ,if might be 2 seasons before I get into that.
It's taken me 3yrs to build this thing, and for now I'm ok it's not getting painted.
That's great to hear MrHillfolk. It's great to know the videos are helpful. Sounds like you have a good project on your hands. It's always a good time working on something you like to work on :)
@@LakesideAutobody
It's definitely made this job alot more fun,I was dreading fixing it because I've seen more than my fare share of bodywork that makes you seasick from all the waves when you look down the side.😆
I'm starting to get a little bit of a feel for it.
When the time comes ,I can probably have it 75% ready for paint so my buddy who's doing it doesn't grumble and throw too many things at me 😆
@@MrTheHillfolk Once you can get filler and primer straight that's it really - the rest is sort of straight forward. I'm glad to hear you're having fun because that really is the point of it all - talk to you soon 🛠😊
@@LakesideAutobody
Boy,it felt so good to block the primer down slightly ,and lay another coat and while it was wet it looked pretty good!
You've made this more fun,now I understand it, and not as much of a dilemma as I was treating it.
Hah, I want a show car paint job eventually(like everyone),but I can't afford that without me putting in a lot of labor to save some money.
Edit: this vid is what I'm building ,if you've got 5mins to watch a time lapse build of one.
th-cam.com/video/cF8S5aK0qOA/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for this video..👍
You're welcome 👍😊✌
Thank you
You're welcome 💯👍😊
Good stuff Bud!!☻
Thanks RK - Happy Holidays to you and your family 🎄❄🎄👍
U know your trade ,best of luck!
Thanks Frank - best of luck to you too my friend :)
Thank you....😊
👍🎄😊
Thank you! I’m an apprentice here in Australia
You're welcome. Feel free to ask ?s - I get to them every day 🎄
Haven’t seen a siphon feed spray gun in a looong time.
Hi Jerry, Thank you for the succinct review on the auto body repair process! More body work for me coming up in the new year. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Side Note. I tried my hand at doing a little Cerakote on a set of headers. Very high temp coating and 500 degree cure. Very cool stuff but boy does it stink! Respirator all the way!😷
Interesting - I'll bet they look cool though now. Merry Christmas and HN to you too my friend 🎄❄🎄😊
@@LakesideAutobody Jerry, sent you a message through Discord.
@@Danno74Z OK - I'll check it out :)
@@Danno74Z Hey Dan - was it about those pipes? Looks good my friend - keep me posted on how it sounds when it's all hooked up - looks like fun :)
I'm an auto tech and do some body work. Nice video by Jerry
Thanks a lot AEW1 - I appreciate the support. Have a good weekend and Christmas 🎄❄🎄😊
You da Man !!!
Thanks Joel - Happy Easter my friend :)
Great short video jerry with easy steps especially for beginners. Ps what is spray bomb primer?
That's some ACE Hardware black spray paint. Basically the cheapest stuff you can find :)
Thanks
You're welcome - Happy 🐇
Could you do the same type of video for what steps to take after a rust repair section has been welded in and ground down. I hear conflicting advice on how to Seal the weld etc. And what to paint over it with. Thankyou
Check this video out - th-cam.com/video/34Jh4RDMAjw/w-d-xo.html You don't have to seal the welds, just clean them up really well - folks go way to overboard and overthinking this stuff. Here's a follow up video on the repair done on this channel and with this method - th-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/w-d-xo.html This truck is driven year round in salt/snow and I'll do more follow up videos on it - one after 5 years and it'll look the same :)
There's no school like old school. Hang that up outside, it'll last a hundred years😉
You're right - it will last for 100 years. I might just do that. 🎄❄🎄😊
that was the proper technique 25 years ago. we use a much lighter method now. the sheet metal is super thin
There probably are some faster sort or cheating type methods but this is the way to go for longevity :)
The old cars are the only ones WORTH repairing 😊
Great vid, can you show a repair on a high area that was dented from behind?
Hi Krisf29 - so it was pushed out? Like something was in the trunk and hit the top of the quarter panel from inside?
@@LakesideAutobody yes. On one and a bullet from inside the car that hit the lower door but did not exit just created like a golf ball size high spot.
@@krisf29 Wow! In that case, you can use a hammer and dolly and work that thing back down. You'll probably end up with some oil canning but you can either wack it down and fill it or do this - th-cam.com/video/K5MVVnsERqc/w-d-xo.html Let me know if you have more ?s
How do you know when to switch to a higher sand paper each time? Do you sand until the surface feels even with every grit?
You always want to prime over 80 or smoother (filler work) so... you'll want to leave your filler a little "full" to give you a bit of filler to sand with that 80. IOW just before you get the filler "perfect" with 40 grit, switch to 80 so that you don't take too much off. As for DA paper it's common to use 120 for feather edging then move to finer grit for the surrounding areas just so you don't get primer on shiny paint as it will flake right off. You can even use a scuff pad to achieve the same goal.
When it comes to masking do you recommend any particular brand of tape? In addition, what material do you prefer: plastic or paper? Please cite manufacturer. Thank you in advance.
Frank
I absolutely recommend 3M Automotive Refinish Masking Tape. This is an area you can't skimp on. Any good quality automotive grade (green) masking paper will work fine for you - I use Autobody Master but just because it's available locally. There are a lot of companies that sell it online too like autobodytoolmart.com and tptools.com and others. The paper brand really doesn't matter as long as it is made for autobody repair. Hope that helps :)
Do you need to use metal etching primer when you have bare metal ? Or is regular primer that you used good enough?
Primer alone is fine.
👍
6:53 What is the spray boom paint for? Why do you prime it again after the spray boom pant? Also, do you need to use a sealer or is primer surfacer good enough on bare metal?
The spray bomb sits in the low spots when you block sand - see this video at 2 minutes and 12 seconds in - th-cam.com/video/itEzOW8Knzs/w-d-xo.html You don't need to use sealer primer surfacer is enough. Sealer helps hide some minor imperfections, gets the panel or car all one color, and seals any weird paint, primer, body work materials away from the fresh paint that may cause a reaction.
I don't mean to tell an artist how to paint but a verbal explanation of mixing up the bondo would go a long way to help newbies avoid pinholes :)
I think that's a great suggestion Mike - thanks. Happy Holidays to you and your family🎄❄😊
@@LakesideAutobody You as well my friend.
If your taking an Old 1950 truck down to metal and your plans are just to use Epoxy primer on it what other steps are necessary. They say epoxy gets gummed up with to much finish sanding
You can't sand epoxy primer so the next step would be to prime with regular urethane primer surfacer or just use DTM (direct to metal) urethane primer surfacer if you are working on it inside. There's really no need for epoxy primer if kept inside while working on it. If you leave it outside for months after priming then yes, hit it with some epoxy.
@@LakesideAutobody TY. Great Videos!!
Wish I could mail my steel hood and fiberglass scoop to you to show us how to bond the two and blend together
Where do you live?
@@LakesideAutobody Minnesota
👍 yeah - a bit too far but would like to do a video on that. When are you planning on doing it. I might grab a scrap hood and throw a scoop on it. "Chevette Hood Gets Massive Scoop" 😊@@KevinRoadrageGarage
@@LakesideAutobody I'm actually thinking about doing it the month of May. What I have is a 1979 Chevy Caprice two-door that I'm putting a cowl induction scoop on. I have to redo somebody else's work they basically used seam sealer and sheet metal screws. I was thinking of using a 3M bonding and then blending it into the hood somehow.
You can use 3M panel adhesive or even JB Weld and rivets/screws. Then rough up the edge of the scoop and adjacent metal. You can use fiberglass reinforced filler or fiberglass cloth + filler to blend into the hood. Let me know it that makes sense and if you have ?s along the way :)@@KevinRoadrageGarage
you made a molehill into a mountain. now we got to blend into the door. I could have fixed it in a 3-in diameter😊
👍
May I ask why you didn't use an epoxy primer or possibly a etching primer? I'm VERY new at this and from everything I'm reading, I should be using epoxy primer to lock everything down before continuing. Is that wrong?
It's not really wrong... It's just what TV, magazines, Eastwood, and blogs say but it doesn't happen in most production body shops. Again, It's not wrong, just not necessary. Here's a bit of background knowledge. For most of the 20th century lacquer primer was it - that's all there was. It worked fine - great actually - don't listen to the negative stuff about it. Then came epoxy primer and urethane primer - both great too. There's also polyester primer surfacer (sort of a spray on bondo) which came out around the 80s. Here's the basic rule and I will be doing a video on this soon. You can use any of them and they all work great but each has a specific use. Epoxy is a non sanding water proof (so they say) primer that's great if you just want to prime and paint although you can prime and paint with all primers. Lacquer primer (1K) and urethane primer (2K) are your every day primer surfacers that build thickness so you can block sand or sand out imperfections. Either one can be stand alone primers for you (all you need). Finally polyester primer is for "cheating" - it's super thick or IOW you can spray it thick like a thin layer of Bondo to bury poor body work, deep scratches, chips etc and they wont show up in the final paint work. That's just a quick run down. Ask more questions if needed - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you for taking the time for your excellent explanation. So in my case, where it will be a while before I can get to all bodywork and paint, it's probably best to get the stripped body panels in an epoxy primer as that seems the most "durable" to give me time? Would that be a fair assumption?
@@fretsman68 Yes... but I still would keep it covered if you leave it outside. Inside you'll be perfectly OK. Good thinking F68 :)
@@LakesideAutobody Yes, it's tucked safely in a small one car garage. Makes working on it tricky, but it can be done. Thanks again for your very helpful videos, Jerry. I wish you and yours a VERY Happy Holiday season!
I noticed you didn't apply any epoxy sealer or etching, is that because of using 60 grit on the surface to allow the primer to grab onto? This is where I get confused because every other video says different. No one really explains it's. Thanks in advance
No problem. You can trust me - I will never lead you in the wrong direction. You never need epoxy primer and you never need etching primer - that's all new age, internet, TV, magazine sales propaganda. You simple DA sand your surface, prime with a DTM primer (Direct to Metal) like lacquer primer surfacer, urethane primer surfacer, polyester primer surfacer or even spray bomb primer, finish sand then paint. Simple as that. Feel free to ask more ?s - here's a great video on primers to help you understand them more. th-cam.com/video/I5RaAgbNOe0/w-d-xo.html Do not take what you hear in magazines, TV, blogs and the internet very seriously - like you said, you'll be completely confused. Find one source you trust and stick with that source :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you for clarifying that. My uncle had his own body shop when I was younger but his passed on. I never once see epoxy or itching around the shop. He did it mostly how you show and that's why I figured I would ask you. That was a fast response unlike other channels. Once again that's for answering my question along with the others I've asked in the past.
@@JohnClarke808 You're welcome - Always feel free to ask any questions you have no matter how easy they seem - it's the easy ones that sometimes can be the hardest to answer :)
Don't we need to sand the spray primer before the paint?
No, you can just prime and then paint. IOW you can paint over un-sanded primer. Sanding the primer does help in getting a nicer finish though :)
mahalo!
What's the cheapest compressor I can get away with for spaying surfacer/ paint?
It really depends on the size of the project. If you are doing a whole car then you'll need a compressor rated at around 5.4 scfm at 90 psi & 6.4 scfm at 40 - somewhere right in there. If one panel - you can use a pancake compressor :)
@Lakeside Autobody Awesome. Thanks for the reply! Love your vids, by the way. Straight and to the point. Great for the DIY'er.
@@jadoriffic Thanks my friend - glad you like the content - appreciate the support 👍✌😊
What degreaser do I buy?
I thought we supposed to use primer on metal before the filler I’m so confused
@@roxyqueen5076 You can use any brand of wax and grease remover. As for filler: Filler has been put over clean sanded/grinded metal for over 50 years - it was made to be put over metal - so you're safe doing so. However, magazines, tv and internet is flooded with stories of having to put it over epoxy primer for many silly reasons. That being said, I did a video proving both methods work fine so it's your choice but I would not waste money and just put it over bare metal - the way it was intended to be used. Here's the video - th-cam.com/video/wVhQLqPAGVU/w-d-xo.html
Ok let me understand this, 1st you wipe down with wax/grease remover , while wearing gloves! Then you sand , bondo sand using multiple grits, then prime substrate without cleaning area ?
Then go-coat ,again with out cleaning work area , and rubbing with bare hands(oily hands) then sand, blow off area (not wash/wipe with oils/grease remover or tack rag the go to primer and paint?????
What happen to preparation is the up most important task of a great paint job? Seems we back to ole school shade tree work???
Am I missing something here???????
You're missing something but it's really small. The gloves are only because I don't want to absorb wax and grease remover (chemicals) through my skin - safety. You really only need to wipe it down with wax and grease remover once - at the beginning to remove road grime, grease, dirt, wax, etc. Don't ever let these guys tell you that you can't touch the panel with your hands. Yes your hands have to be clean and you can't eat fried chicken while working but after your hands are clean - yo'u're good to go. Your hands will be dry from doing body work - mine are dry as a bone all the time - you'll never get fish eyes from you hands unless your doing something unbodyworkish - new word I guess. You can absolutely keep cleaning it if you feel you need to but I only showed the necessary steps to get a quality job - didn't want to be confusing or redundant - hope that makes sense :)
No clear coat
That is single stage enamel paint. In the old days there was no BC/CC just single stage - sort of like a spray bomb paint but with an activator or hardener :)
He still skipped steps
There's probably a few optional ones - which are you referring to? Metal etching primer? Tack cloth? Feel free to explain my friend 🎄❄🎄😊
you left out a ton of detail.
Probably but just wanted to get the main idea across. You know... like grind, fill, DA sand, prime, block, prime again, finish sand, paint. Once you have that you're on your way :)
looks like I shot it with my BB gun
Might have to use it as a target - hang it on a tree or something :)
Thank you
You're welcome :)