Thanks for the Vid In my experience with painting, there are three things that are important: 1) clean 2) clean 3) clean POR15 works great on stuff that’s hard to reach…… If you can clean it off really good with a pressure washer (highly recommended). If you running low on funds, you can use Dawn dishwashing liquid (little bit of elbow grease with a brush works great). The “ metal prep” actually has a little bit of phosphoric acid. So, don’t let it sit on your hands too long. the sulfuric acid eats away the oxidation and etches the ferrous metal (the grab). A Substitute might be diluted CLR…. it does the same thing. You can also go to a pool store and get a 1 gal bottle and dilute it…🤷♂️. Just some helpful ideas to save a few bucks. The best result is when you can roll it on with a fine Nap roller….. but we only use POR for the hard to reach heavy metal areas… I used a brush and got a good result. Worked really well and I was happy with it. 👍 it’s expensive, but if you want to do it right, use POR 🤷♂️. The best thing about POR 15 is that it works really well in damp areas. Steel sweats with change in temperature and humidity and it does a really good job - it’s tough stuff.. But remember, it needs 2 COATS.
I’m older and have tried lots of things to deal with frame rust: acid, paint, oil, wax… By far the best and easiest thing I’ve found is Boiled Linseed Oil. It’s essentially old fashioned enamel paint binder without pigment. Brush or wash off any heavy dirt, and spray with BLO. It takes days to dry and will creep into everything. When it does harden up, it’s still gummy, so it doesn’t chip or peel. It turns the rust dark, and it gets darker with subsequent coats. I spray coat everything underneath with straight BLO except the brake rotors, wiring and engine. In the rust belt, coating every other year keeps the bottom side of cars and trucks nice.
@@spookyspawnz6393 So would salt water or brine. Proper caution is required, but the bottom side of the modern automobile is generally sealed pretty well. Also there’s lots of types of acid. I was talking about the type of acid (tannic or others) that converts the rust to a black more durable form of iron oxide.
@@GusMahn ok well I have a older truck it’s a 1996 dodge ram I plan on cleaning the frame and painting it but I want to find someone to help clean it with that’s less likely to effect the wiring where it’s a bit older it’s not in the best shape there’s no naked wires but like I said they do have some age on them tho
I’ve used por15 without even using the cleaner and metal prep and have had great success with all the cars I’ve used it on. And it’s crazy cuz it really stops rust from continuing to form.
You should put a disclaimer in the video that this is not a way to keep actual rust from forming. It makes it look better for a southern truck but the paint will eventually chip and rust will form behind the paint and it will trap moisture making the issue worse. Not a concern in the south but for vehicles up north this is worse than doing nothing
You do know about por15 right? I hope you are not comparing this product to a regular paint. Because it's not. Your comment makes it seem that way. Por15 is magical. But you gotta use their cleaner and metal prep products for best results.
I own a masonry business and i own 19 trucks I live in Massachusetts I’ve been using that stuff for so long I never had a problem with por15 I think it’s the best never had problems me an my guys clean the frame really good with a pressure washer and do the same thing yearly.
Hey, I coded my frame on my F150. I got the eight dollar can spray paint from Home Depot. It’s rubber it’s advertised as rubberized coating. I should’ve watched your video first. I should’ve used the POS coding. I’m not sure I’m really happy with this spray can I used the rust is kind of surfacing through the paint. I’m not sure how I feel about it yet. Thanks for the video.😊
What code did you give your frame is that something new you need to do before you coat your frame. TH-camr Real World Garage doesn't recommend POR 15 it cracks and comes off after a period of time, so you might have made the right choice.😊
Home Depot rustolium rubberized spray paint $8 a can undercoating it worked good thank you for the reply it works pretty good although there are some rust spots that are bleeding through. I may need a second coat.
@@justindhitchcock1806that stuff is trash. You're going to be touching up for the life of the vehicle now. Too late now. Can't remove it. Por15 lasts 10 years or longer. It's durable
Looks great. Strange how that frame is so visible and low on the Denali. My old ram 2500 seems to be higher and the frame isn't viable like this. I used a lot of spray can rust converter and it did well but I think the brush on is recommended. I found the leaf springs were a PITA and rust came back. What worked well is spraying the leaf springs with some kind of penetrating oil and the rust dissolved, now it's rust free "oily" metal.
If we could, in theory use a wire wheel or hypothetically a sandblaster to remove all the rust first and sprayed it on that would give us the best look? Then follow up with paint over that or something for uv protection? Or would the por15 work best on rust and we’de just want to use regular paint on the frame if you could hypothetically remove all the rust first…?
Also consider Rustoleum undercoating. Purchased at HD. Sprays on, little overspray. Just pressure wash and go. So far my frame in Florida is rust free. Much easier to apply.
Are you getting ready to spend more money and cover the spots bleeding through? You just put a bandaid on it, not stopping the problem. Por15 cleaner, metal prep, and then brush on por15 for a complete durable lifetime finish. It's NOT the same as paint, which wipes away with brake fluid. 😂
Great job doesn't spray paint thinners remove it from your hands it works with most paints. Watch TH-camr Real World Garage and see what he thinks of POR 15
I was literally doing this this afternoon. Second coat of the inside of my car’s fresh air intakes and the metal under the dash pad of my project car. I wore nitrile gloves but they didn’t hold up and my hands are black 😂
Ppl from the south would vomit if they saw what I do to keep my 09 frontier from rotting away up here in Pennsylvania. A thick yearly coat of fluid film every fall grows into a black layer of greasy crude. I even overspray onto outer body panels so if you brush up against the wrong spot you stain your clothes. This does work but its still a losing battle each year new pinch welds pop open with rust and eventually you have to cut out and patch to fully get rid of the rust.
Dont use rubberized coating ever on a frame. It looks good after its applied but it does way more harm in the long run. POR15 is supposed to be top coated with a uv protectant paint. I wouldnt use it either honestly. Id paint it with actual frame paint and then coat it with pfc once a year.
All of us northerners are cringing watching this. Rubberized undercoating is never a good idea, he just trapped in the moisture and that rust is going to continue
That POR will not stop the rust. It will eventually just peel off like a piece of paper. You are much better off Fluid Filming the frame and underside.
![Repairing a Rusty Frame on a GMT800 Truck [Cheap Duramax Part 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YK8Mq6HWOwI/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the Vid
In my experience with painting, there are three things that are important:
1) clean
2) clean
3) clean
POR15 works great on stuff that’s hard to reach…… If you can clean it off really good with a pressure washer (highly recommended). If you running low on funds, you can use Dawn dishwashing liquid (little bit of elbow grease with a brush works great).
The “ metal prep” actually has a little bit of phosphoric acid. So, don’t let it sit on your hands too long. the sulfuric acid eats away the oxidation and etches the ferrous metal (the grab). A Substitute might be diluted CLR…. it does the same thing. You can also go to a pool store and get a 1 gal bottle and dilute it…🤷♂️. Just some helpful ideas to save a few bucks.
The best result is when you can roll it on with a fine Nap roller….. but we only use POR for the hard to reach heavy metal areas… I used a brush and got a good result. Worked really well and I was happy with it. 👍 it’s expensive, but if you want to do it right, use POR 🤷♂️.
The best thing about POR 15 is that it works really well in damp areas. Steel sweats with change in temperature and humidity and it does a really good job - it’s tough stuff.. But remember, it needs 2 COATS.
I’m older and have tried lots of things to deal with frame rust: acid, paint, oil, wax… By far the best and easiest thing I’ve found is Boiled Linseed Oil. It’s essentially old fashioned enamel paint binder without pigment. Brush or wash off any heavy dirt, and spray with BLO. It takes days to dry and will creep into everything. When it does harden up, it’s still gummy, so it doesn’t chip or peel. It turns the rust dark, and it gets darker with subsequent coats. I spray coat everything underneath with straight BLO except the brake rotors, wiring and engine. In the rust belt, coating every other year keeps the bottom side of cars and trucks nice.
You should make a video
Wouldn’t the acid ruin the Eletrical lines if it got on there?
@@spookyspawnz6393 So would salt water or brine. Proper caution is required, but the bottom side of the modern automobile is generally sealed pretty well. Also there’s lots of types of acid. I was talking about the type of acid (tannic or others) that converts the rust to a black more durable form of iron oxide.
@@GusMahn ok well I have a older truck it’s a 1996 dodge ram I plan on cleaning the frame and painting it but I want to find someone to help clean it with that’s less likely to effect the wiring where it’s a bit older it’s not in the best shape there’s no naked wires but like I said they do have some age on them tho
I’ve used por15 without even using the cleaner and metal prep and have had great success with all the cars I’ve used it on. And it’s crazy cuz it really stops rust from continuing to form.
You should put a disclaimer in the video that this is not a way to keep actual rust from forming. It makes it look better for a southern truck but the paint will eventually chip and rust will form behind the paint and it will trap moisture making the issue worse. Not a concern in the south but for vehicles up north this is worse than doing nothing
You do know about por15 right? I hope you are not comparing this product to a regular paint. Because it's not. Your comment makes it seem that way. Por15 is magical. But you gotta use their cleaner and metal prep products for best results.
@@johnny257yea por15 is the shit
Wrong
It will rust inside out unless is factory done like a new frame paint
I own a masonry business and i own 19 trucks I live in Massachusetts I’ve been using that stuff for so long I never had a problem with por15 I think it’s the best never had problems me an my guys clean the frame really good with a pressure washer and do the same thing yearly.
Hey, I coded my frame on my F150. I got the eight dollar can spray paint from Home Depot. It’s rubber it’s advertised as rubberized coating. I should’ve watched your video first. I should’ve used the POS coding. I’m not sure I’m really happy with this spray can I used the rust is kind of surfacing through the paint. I’m not sure how I feel about it yet. Thanks for the video.😊
What code did you give your frame is that something new you need to do before you coat your frame. TH-camr Real World Garage doesn't recommend POR 15 it cracks and comes off after a period of time, so you might have made the right choice.😊
Home Depot rustolium rubberized spray paint $8 a can undercoating it worked good thank you for the reply it works pretty good although there are some rust spots that are bleeding through. I may need a second coat.
@@justindhitchcock1806that stuff is trash. You're going to be touching up for the life of the vehicle now. Too late now. Can't remove it. Por15 lasts 10 years or longer. It's durable
@@johnny257 Cosmoline and fluid film show up best. Cosmo at exposed area and ff in cavities.
Please give us some updates on this.. I’ve been thinking of using this product
yes its the best out there. it goes right into the metal and hardends up.
Looks great. Strange how that frame is so visible and low on the Denali. My old ram 2500 seems to be higher and the frame isn't viable like this. I used a lot of spray can rust converter and it did well but I think the brush on is recommended. I found the leaf springs were a PITA and rust came back. What worked well is spraying the leaf springs with some kind of penetrating oil and the rust dissolved, now it's rust free "oily" metal.
If we could, in theory use a wire wheel or hypothetically a sandblaster to remove all the rust first and sprayed it on that would give us the best look? Then follow up with paint over that or something for uv protection?
Or would the por15 work best on rust and we’de just want to use regular paint on the frame if you could hypothetically remove all the rust first…?
How’s it look a year later?
Pb blaster surface shield 🛡 use it love it no rust problem ever !
That stuff is new. We will see how it will hold for years. I'm at cosmo and ff combo.
@@zell863it's been around for at least three years now. I first used it on my wife's Subrau two years ago. Just recoated this year, looking good.
what do you think the best tune is for an l5p?
I taped off my truck and bought a tyvak suit and face shield I sprayed mine on it covered the entire underside
Also consider Rustoleum undercoating. Purchased at HD. Sprays on, little overspray. Just pressure wash and go. So far my frame in Florida is rust free. Much easier to apply.
I tried that here in MN and it wears off after a year or two
Are you getting ready to spend more money and cover the spots bleeding through? You just put a bandaid on it, not stopping the problem. Por15 cleaner, metal prep, and then brush on por15 for a complete durable lifetime finish. It's NOT the same as paint, which wipes away with brake fluid. 😂
I was thinking to do it with chasis saver on mines maybe grind the crispy rust and that's it
How did you get the paint off your hands?
Solvent
Grafitti remover works well to remove pores from skin.
Can you add link for all products used in the video?? @JW Montoya
Great job doesn't spray paint thinners remove it from your hands it works with most paints. Watch TH-camr Real World Garage and see what he thinks of POR 15
I was literally doing this this afternoon. Second coat of the inside of my car’s fresh air intakes and the metal under the dash pad of my project car. I wore nitrile gloves but they didn’t hold up and my hands are black 😂
Get the thicker mil gloves at Harbor Freight. They hold up better.
How has this held up thinking of doing to mine
Good video bro 🇺🇲💪🏽
Invest in one of those cheapo pump sprayers. Save your hands from having to constantly spray a bottle, and cover more areas.
Farm implement paint and a Harbor Frait spray gun.
No, por15 and a brush.
Go spill some brake fluid on it and report back. It's going to melt your paint. Won't happen if you do it right with por15.
Ppl from the south would vomit if they saw what I do to keep my 09 frontier from rotting away up here in Pennsylvania. A thick yearly coat of fluid film every fall grows into a black layer of greasy crude. I even overspray onto outer body panels so if you brush up against the wrong spot you stain your clothes. This does work but its still a losing battle each year new pinch welds pop open with rust and eventually you have to cut out and patch to fully get rid of the rust.
Anyway you can spray this?
I've found Rust-Oleum paint in a can or implement paint works well
pretty cool, thanks for sharing
Dont use rubberized coating ever on a frame. It looks good after its applied but it does way more harm in the long run. POR15 is supposed to be top coated with a uv protectant paint. I wouldnt use it either honestly. Id paint it with actual frame paint and then coat it with pfc once a year.
Gracias primo
Yeah I tried that por15 it rusted back out, done all 3 steps, they did send me new paint done what they told me still rusted back some
Where do you live?
@@JWMontoya West Virginia, an the frame was never took out of the garage
Chassis saver 🙌🙌
@@KSDRIVEWAYGUYS yeah I’ve used that to
Did the little top coat can work for the whole truck?
Or you can use orange cleaner. It comes right off or alcohol works also
By all means, before applying Pro 15 - wear disposable coveralls, goggles, and gloves. POR 15 is a hassle to remove off your skin
How about a 1 year follow-up video???
Still holding up great
How many people are entering your giveaway...odds looking good
How to with SUV?
Next time you get paint on you use baby oil it will take it off
I dont know why POR15 isnt a factory option for all frames. I just did my honda element.
clean with mineral spirits. your hands
You forgot about the inside of the frame!
Wash your hands with gasoline about a cup of gas rub and scrub then wash your hands with soap
Update?
Still holding up
Does anyone use oxalic acid?
You're painting over rust. I DON'T get i🤔🤔🤔
Flex seal any good?
Where GLOVES !!!
This vid is BS. Por15 makes the car rust even more! It preserve moisture.
Are you crazy? You have applied the product over the rust ! It won’t work much time!
All of us northerners are cringing watching this. Rubberized undercoating is never a good idea, he just trapped in the moisture and that rust is going to continue
Bro! Help me delete my 2021 L5P, keep getting “exhaust filter needs to clean” messages. Definitely dont wanna trade for a ford😅! 🙏🏻
Why would you trade for another truck with a def filter then?
That POR will not stop the rust. It will eventually just peel off like a piece of paper. You are much better off Fluid Filming the frame and underside.
Paint on the rust, good job. Now you will have the next possible 3 to 4 video ideas of scraping them off and do the proper jobs lol.
It’s been over a year and still looks great 👍
It’s designed to be painted on rust
@@Gibbbrayden Well imo, the subframe of the car is not designed to be rust.
pure waist of money and effort