Used this formulation yesterday and it is bloody amazing! I used half a litre of acid with ethyl and it started really kicking in within about 30 minutes - my finished project is a square metre of angle and flat steel as well as a load of 1 inch square tube, about 50kg weight in total. The reaction surprised me, my workpiece got very warm to the touch. Definitely a job for outside and not the garage, this morning there was a patch of horrible black gunk stuck to the road/footpath outside the house. What WAS surprising was the effect the spray had on the mill scale - I'd previously only cleaned the parts that needed welding so there was a lot of scale. This morning it was at least 95% gone. Also the galvanised tube had been stripped clean. So this is definately a go-to method for welding prep, way cleaner and safer than using muriatic, and lots cheaper and less effort than grinding. The metal was left with a coating of black grit, a coarse sandpaper texture. This came off easily with light steel-brushing. I've applied a coat of epoxy primer to one side and it looks immaculate, no bumpy bits, dead flat. So I'd give this methods a huge thumbs up. I've just ordered a litre of phosphoric online, definitely worth keeping some handy.
I am pleased to hear that you have achieved positive outcomes from it. As a gentle reminder to our esteemed audience, your generous donations and memberships to our channel are held in high regard and deeply appreciated.
At a chemical level, phosphoric acid is attacking the iron oxide and converting it into ferric phosphate. The ethyl alcohol is not doing much of anything - but it serves as a wonderful way to dilute the acid. The resulting black stuff is Ferric Phosphate, and is fairly rust resistant and acid resistant, but not terribly water resistant. If you want to spend the time and make everything clean at this point, the Ferric Phosphate mineral salt accumulation should be a lot easier to remove than rust, and once you're down to clean metal you can apply any sort of surface treatment. For areas that are not exposed to water frequently, just leaving the ferric phosphate may produce the desired rust resistance. For areas that ARE exposed to water (which can dissolve and penetrate ferric phosphate) a polyurethane coating should serve admirably to prevent further damage. My personal thought is that the ferric phosphate - the black textured leftovers of phosphoric acid - is rather attractive and nicely chemically inert. I have done a couple of trailer frames with it and just hosed on rustoleum or POR-15 and had decent results. Nothing is perfect, nothing lasts forever. But! Killing rust and sealing the affected area can really slow down the ravages of time.
Thankyou mate. I love people like you. Big companies sell with little to no results sometimes cos at the end of the day they will tell you what they want you to hear. Cheers
You are on the right track. Im an industrial chemist and 40 years ago i worked in a company producing rust removers and other interesting stuff. We produced something equivalent to Jenolite at that time. The key ingredients are the phosphoric and the solvent. Alcohol works. Obviously kerosene and water insoluble solvents dont. It forms a passive film that can be over painted. As another commenter said if there is heavy rust scale it only converts the surface so thick or loose rust is still better removed mechanically. Back in the day I experimented with rinsing or not rinsing after a few days and as long as the film is dry it doesnt make a difference to paint adhesion. Phosphoric is slow to burn, so it wont damage your hands much, but its bad for your eyes especially with the alcohol in..... Safety first. The Philippines ER isnt where you want to be :) Or the vet......
Mate the formula works great! I mixed up a bottle and sprayed my rusty trailer and now it's ready for a paint job. I used Methylated spirits instead of ethanol and it seems to work just fine. I've been buying rust converters for $20 for 250ml in australia and your formula works better and way cheaper. Thanks for sharing the magic formula.
Took a class on automotive refinishing. They suggested a phosphoric acid treatment before painting. The iron/phosphorous black is microscopically shaped like a layer of hay and promotes paint adhesion.
Lol I use a acid primer for bare metal it's used industrially for aluminium surface adhesion also a protestant layer from oxygen getting to the metals surface which would create rust and delamination of the metal it works well verry expensive though
The process of dissolving rust and other metals is called chelation. Weak acids (weak in the sense that they’re not strong acids like hydrochloric acid that not all their ions disassociate in water) like phosporic acid, oxalic acid, citric acid and acetic acid AKA vinegar will all react with rust (FE2O3) and other metal oxides like water streaks (calcium deposit) to remove the metal from oxygen and keep the metal ion suspended in solution. However since these are still acids they will still attack the base metal. This also happens when you cook acidic food in metal cookware, part of the metal ends up in your food - this is the reason why cooking on a cast iron pan increases the iron in your food because using it literally chips away at your pan bit by bit. What you can do to minimize attacking the metal through acid action is adding a weak base to the solution like sodium carbonate (Na2CO3) to bring the pH closer to neutral so the solution only attacks the metal oxide. This is actually how Evaporust works.
Good day sir - i used this method on my hood hinges and springs- bought a gallon jug of 85 percent food grade and diluted to a 30 percent solution and a 45 minute soak and picked up a hinge and said repeatedly no f ing way! They look brand new! ( i did clean dirt/grease off first with oven cleaner) im sold! Thanks bud
I'm glad to have stumbled upon this video, no more wasting my money on overpriced metal prep. Thank you for the PSA. It's funny, I was literally thinking about how I should see if I can just buy phosphoric acid instead and this video popped up on my feed. Things just work out that way.
Just a note - glad you poured the acid into water, not the other way around. Always pour acid in water, do it opposite & it may react, foam up & spray out onto your eyes & face. Can't wait to use this formula. Looks better than the products sold for this purpose, and no more plugged nozzles on spray cans !
Thank you for this video. I knew there was a DIY solution to the rust problem. I have a used 2nd Gen Ram2500 that spent some of its life next to the Pacific Ocean and had undercarriage rust to prove it. I will be using the knowledge you passed on to stop the rust. A body guy told me once "rust never sleeps". Until you stop it with measure like your recipe. Glad to see you are in PI. My ex is Fipipina. We used to go ballroom dancing every weekend at Filipino gatherings. I miss my Filipino friends more than I miss her. They are Gods people. I even took some Tagalog lessons to "fit in" a little. You should have seen their faces one time during a dance lesson when I responded to a question in perfect Tagalog!! They said I make their nose bleed. 😂🤣 Maraming Salamat
I envy you! I live on the next big island to the left of Just a Hand and they have 4 dialects here and the level of spoken Filipino/Tagalog is surprisingly low, especially among the kids - thank lockdowns for that, they didn't help. So more often than not when I spout some pidgin Tagalog in a shop I get a blank look - bloody depressing! I lived in Spain for 3 years and got along fine in Spanish, so I can learn languages - just not here!
The 2nd Gen Rams were known as the biodegradable trucks 🙃. I use cans of rust proofing oil to prevent rust. I have a rust free 98, and I live in Canada. You also have to ream out the drain hole in behind the bottom of the front fender, or it'll collect mud. Pop open the plugs behind the rockers periodically and spray with water followed by oiling. Don't forget to put the plugs back in after. There's a bracket that collects mud and will rot out the cab corner. You have to remove the interior to get to it. Take it out and throw it away. You can oil the inside of the body while the interior is out. The rear wheel wells also like to collect mud. Take out the tail lights and spray inside the fenders with water, followed by oiling. I also drilled drain holes in behind the wheel wells so they dont collect mud. Gotta keep the old vehicles going for as long as possible. The new ones are out to lunch with their prices
It is very difficult to learn language here because it isn't latin based. I'm struggling very hard myself to learn the local dialect which covers a very small area
There is some stuff called OSPHO. Its been used in the marine trades for years. Just spray it on with a squirt bottle, bonds with rust to prevent any further rusting. It can be painted over and doesnt need to be washed off or neutralized. Spray on and let dry then paint. If you spray new steel in a ballast tank on a boat, it will last for 2 or 3 years in salt water before you need to spray some more on and the steel will look like new steel with no signs of corrosion. In a boat tank, we usually used floor mops, the string type to apply it. Used it on the frame of my 87 F150 before I painted it. Any major paint supplier should carry it, if not, find a marine paint supplier.
For someone like me, this is like magic! I’ve just bought a second hand car that has a few small rust spots that I can now treat and I’ll have a go at the underside too. Thanks so much for sharing this.👍
TH-cam is very strange sometimes... I would say that at least 80% of what I watch on YT (I have no cable TV) is restoring old cars and travel channels about the Philippines. Channels such as Fitzee's Fabrications, Uncle Tony's Garage, Dead Dodge Garage on the auto restoration side and Old Dog, Sunshine Shoulders, Q Adventures, The Regular Guy on the Philippines, and yet it appears to have taken a long time for YT's algorithm to put two & two together for me to serve up your channel! And to top it all off, I'm a Mopar guy. Anyways, glad your channel popped up in my feed and I will check it out. Cheers from a fellow Ontarion.
Same here.. appreciate your video and Texas is in The house.. Very grateful for the info! . I have the cheapo expanded metal table and chairs that have the rust thing going on, so will try your formula. Any thoughts of using muratic acid instead, since I have it on hand. And did I understand correctly that there is no need to rinse, must wire brush and seal, before painting?
You are correct, there is no need to rinse or neutralize the formula. Muriatic acid can do the job, but you have to be very careful. How long you leave it on for it and to neutralize it properly. If you don't do things just perfect, then you will regret using it. If any of the acid remains, then it could ruin your paint down the road
Dry Ice blasting is lightening fast and works and is safe on "everything" It dries almost instantly and works like "magic" ! It's a little pricey, but when you need it right now, it's worth it ! It also removes old cooked on grease and oil on engines , transmissions and rear ends ! The first time I used it, I could not believe my eyes !
There are various approaches to addressing rust issues. During my years in the media blasting industry, I discovered that crushed glass and plastic media are highly effective for vehicles that have undergone multiple body jobs and paint over the years. These media effectively remove all materials. However, it is important to note that this method may not be financially feasible or practical for many individuals and in many situations. I use the rust spray quite frequently as it's quick and easy.
@@Susan70003 There is no real "do it yourself" method unfortunately. The equipment needed to do any dry ice blasting work is incredibly expensive. Just the type of air compressor required will run you a minimum of $10k+
I use a product which has phosphorus in it and I rub down any areas after I’ve wire wheeled the heavy stuff off. It works great. Helps the paint bind to it as well.
Nice upload Sir, I plan on using your solution to treat the frame on my lincoln town car. Your knowledge and experience is very much appreciated. Keep informing the people...
Thank you for sharing this, I purchased a spray can to deal with some lightly pitted areas on a tractor bonnet I did last year (that I couldn't clean up right with my angle grinder and wire brush) and paid 35 euro for it, it did exactly the same job you just did here at a fraction of the cost. That acid is sold here as milk stone remover for use in dairy equipment, all the best to you sir from Co mayo ireland, 🇮🇪
@@justahandchannel the pleasures all mine, it's great to see people like yourself that have knowledge of this stuff and are willing to share it, big industry won't make this info available that's for sure! All the best ,👍
I believe that method is effective. However, it would be more efficient to use phosphoric acid directly instead of the entire Coca-Cola composition. As far as I can tell, phosphoric acid is the only active ingredient in this case. The effectiveness of carbonated water and sugar in this situation is uncertain.
Thank you, Brother, for sharing knowledge. I have a large trailer smoker I plan on having sandblast. I was worried about overnight rusting from dew forming on the tank. You saved me a headache.
Excellent! I used neat phosphoric acid (bought from a lab 5 litres) to treat inside the stripped shell of my horsebox couple years back, only had a brush so a bit messy and couldnt get to everything. It worked well as 2 years later after parked out in uk weather it has remained the same converted state with white deposits where the rain hasnt got to it and light surface rust on those that got rained on. Im now finally able to get on with sorting this truck out so will dilute and spray on for good measure as you've shown before my next preps (very glad I dont have to rinse it off and dry with a towel before painting like so many others say to 😂). Like many commenters Im not sure why the hand gel but the commercial products have their reasons (maybe it inhibits bacteria growth or something to lengthen their shelf life). Thankyou!
As a shipwright, Phosphoric acid is indispensible. Thanks for laying out the proportions for first-timers. I have not heard of the ethanol addition before.... I will try it out. I have found that a coat of undiluted Phos overnight will actually dissolve rust without the severe pitting caused by HCl. It will leave a sticky residue which I wash off with hot water and air-dry. I then recoat with 1:2 Phos solution and let that airdry. This leaves a whitish powdery coating (the iron phosphate) which is protective, so dont wipe it off. This can then be paint-primed, or be sealed with epoxy. I am keen to see what the ethanol adds.... speeds up the air-drying🤔? Thanks for this neat video. There are a million rust-cure you-tubes, but yours is straight to the point, and I know it works.
I have to say this mix works fairly well. I tested on a rusty crusty spare rim. Wire wheel the rim then put mix on with paint brush. Now I will prime it and it should be good to go. 02 tundra underneath up next. Xxx finger!!! Heavy pitted rust gives you a hammered type look,but it gets in the bumps. Thank you for the video. Got my stuff from duda in AL, but check local farm stores,as it is also a fertilizer! +
That's a great idea thank you I have a lot of rust underneath my SUV I would love to spray this stuff on there after The rust is gone I can prime it and undercoat
Almost any strong acid will work for rust removal. My favorite cheap one is toilet bowl cleaner. As long as it has hydrochloric acid in it it will work. I've saved many motorcycle gas tanks with it.
I can't endorse or deny that claim. But I would worry about contamination and having to neutralize different kinds of acid. Whereas this formula will not need any of that. I wouldn't want to have something in paint and then see it bubble the first time it rains.
Hydrochloric acid will made ferric chloride acid when it dissolves iron (which steel contains), ferric chloride acid will then dissolve steel given enough exposure. It will etch and protect and it may work fine but phosphoric acid will do a better job because it will convert the rust straight to iron phosphate ready to prime and paint and it’s not as bad (toxic gases) to with with
That is amazing, I have been looking for a solution the rust on the frame of a car I am working on. This one is by far the easiest, safest and most effective! 👍
You're Awesome, Thank You!! An alternative to all the expensive products online that are probably the same thing, but you made it cheaper. I have an old Bronco that needs this.
Klean-strip metal etch and prep (contains phosphoric acid) at lowes/home depot is the best Ive used for dipping rusted parts in but I imagine pure phosphoric acid works even quicker.
been using the green stuff for years (prep and etch phosphoric acid). I used a pump sprayer with it and use it as a primer before painting frames. in the US you can get it in a gallon at home depot
A component of Pepsi and Coca Cola (and probably all colas) is phosphoric acid which takes minerals out of your bones to neutralize it, and the reason to rarely or never drink the stuff and the reason they remove rust.
It is used for many different purposes. And the companies slap their name on it and charge ridiculous amounts to purchase it. You can buy a pass all of that and save a ton of money.
I have always wondered how the parkerized. Had a shotgun parkerized in the early 80’s .still have it and it looks like it did when it was done. It is my beater gun.
I have been using Kleen Strip Concrete prep, available at most home improvement stores in the states and far less expensive than the Ospho brand with the same chemicals. Phosphoric acid is the key though, thanks for the video.
Great! Now, here in Norway i pay ca 10 $ for 250 ml of water based rust converter which works great, and that amount covers a lot of metal. To keep the rust away from my 1977 Ford Escort long term more is needed - Fluid Film.
Fluid Film is great stuff. I use it to protect high carbon steel.knives and outdoor equipment in storage. Apply as THIN a coat as possible in those cases, a literal film is all you need
I just got my 98 Jeep XJ back and its from Syracuse NY so I definitely needed this. Gonna use flame proof exhaust paint & truck bed liner to survive these Detroit winters. Subscribed Thank you for your service🖖
I am in Buffalo, probably the worst for rust in the world. I squirt / spray oil into every door panel, rocker panel, sealed cavity, onto all metal lines, around the wheel housings and frame. Oil will "Creep" and prevent oxidation. On exposed areas, it will fade over time. There are oil based rust treatment shops in the area. Even lawnmower decks that are very rusted can be preserved for a long time if they are wire wheel cleaned and oiled, but a Cosmoline (Tectyl) wax based works great and lasts longer. Mike
Oh wao, my deepest apreciation to you. I was looking for this, and I stumbled with your video when I started looking on the internet. Thank you very much. Please continue with more videos. Your explanations are simple and to the point. Kudos
Jeez, that's the first XR150L exhaust that I've heard that sounds GOOD! Got my 2024 XR150L last week (selling the vStrom). The XR needs jets, foot-pegs, front sprocket, ... to get started. (minimal costs). Then handlebars, exhaust, and a taller seat! (that's impossible to find, so far).
Thank you for this video it really helped me out. I used the the bed liner stuff and paint brushed builds up on my under body of the car . If I sprayed it on it should eat throw all that stuff underneath the car. Maybe? I have a 2005 mercury montego with only a 116,000 mile and had this car for 5 years now. 5 years ago it had 75,000 miles then. The transmission use to Bang in over drive and kick down. Only under pressure. I changed the transmission fluid 2 qts at a time and started this at 78,000 miles it has a toyota transmission and had to use mobil 1 3309 mineral oils and since that time it's working pretty good and there is a way to reprogram the car with a wire . Take the negative wire off the battery and lift it off and put a towel over the negative post and then get a wire and connect from the positive cable to the negative wire without it touching the negative posts for a few minutes and then take it off and connect the negative back . Make sure everything in the car is off . Lights, air conditioning, and start car and let it idle for 10 minutes to relearn and then take it for a ride slow and then build up slowly relearn the way you drive and that's it. Not like old school, 70s and 80s car a screw driver and a pack of matches will get you started.
I got a couple of cheap hacks mix roofing tar and diesel and a tiny bit of paint thinner and you have a huge quantity of asphalt undercoating oven cleaner as decreaser not bad or gasoline and a brush for really greasy engines cheap aswell super cost effective methods I use a vat with water and pool acid o ph down it is acid essentially also any type of drano will remove heavy rust completely
Thank you for the video on the rust remover pretty cool and you seem knowledeable on these type of things and would make someone a good friend . Thank you Jerry
Recently watched a TH-cam vid of a guy that made a formula with citric acid and baking soda that outperformed evaporust. It remained reusable. while evaporust would get dirty and gunky and perform slower. The high point of the video was that is incredibly cheap to make vs phosphoric acid
Thank you for your tips on rust removal 🙏 I’ve just bought a used stick welder and your suggestion will come in handy for removing rust from incomplete projects that left outside in the garden as they are too big to go in the garage 🙏
@@justahandchannel as @djgomaz1 mentioned about the welding. Will this product leave any residue that could contiminate the flux of the welding rods without cleaning it off please? Great info mate and well presented
I recommend that you prepare the welding areas by grinding them to ensure a clean and proper contact surface. While the chemical itself does not directly impact the welding process, the presence of impurities or contaminants on the surface can hinder the effectiveness of the weld. Therefore, it is crucial to maintain a clean surface for optimal welding results.
Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), and methanol (methyl alcohol) will work just as good as ethanol. Pure ethanol (punctilious alcohol) is hard to come by in the US because you can drink it without going blind and the government wants to put a tax stamp on the container. 100% ethanol (heavily taxed by the US government) can be found in some liquor stores as grain alcohol and it will be labeled as 200 proof. Just go to Home Depot or Lowes and by a container of methanol (methyl alcohol). It will be with the acetone and the paint thinner and mineral spirits and lacquer thinner and such, and if you drink it, you will go blind. Hey, you can buy rubbing alcohol at the grocery store. All of the alcohols mix with water. Denatured alcohol is ethanol that has unsavory liquids added to it on purpose so that you won't want to drink it or if you do drink it, it might make you vomit. It is not expensive because the government doesn't tax it like a single malt scotch.
I have used this phosphoric acid treatment for 40 years. After treatment it usually stays black unless I leave it out side over night and the moisture gets to it. Then I usually have to do it again as overnight the rusting process can begin again.
I’m restoring a 76 Trans Am,and dealing with some light surface rust under hood on the engine block, suspension parts, etc. I used your formula, and it left white powder looking results on the bare metal. What is that and how do I avoid that from happening again? How do I get it off the parts that it is on now? Thanks so much for your channel! Yep, I subscribed!
The white residue is typically a result of the product remaining on the treated surface. It is commonly observed on top surfaces due to limited evaporation. To mitigate this issue, consider using a blow gun ten minutes after application to remove excess product. For residue removal, re-spray the affected areas and wipe them with a cloth. Thanks for the sub!
Thanks for the wonderful video. You could be my neighbour any day. It seems like you have an active mind with lots of stuff going on in it. I look forward to viewing mor of your videos.
Indeed, you are correct. My mind is constantly active, and I have numerous projects that I am eager to undertake. Please stay tuned for more videos. I appreciate your joining us.
im not against any method really, but practically speaking, 'going at' a vehicle undercarriage or frame just spraying it with something is going to cause more damage than it fixes .. individual removed parts, ok yeah, treat them then paint them ... but the easiest way to stave off corrosion under a vehicle is - save your old oil from an oil change, get you an old towel and soak it in it, jack your car up and start wiping .. its a dirty job😂 .. but highly effective .. i would spray off sand or caked up stuff first and let it dry .. youll be surprised how good it looks if your thorough, and the oil film will stay on for a long time, if it starts looking dry in a year or so hit it again ..
That works great for a daily driver but this method is more geared to people with classic cars when they intend to have a painted finish or like myself, they don't want oil over everything. It's personal preference.
Thanks for reminding me of this method. I agree with you. My deceased brother was a real mechanical genius and he taught me your method years ago. The oil also protects the undercarriage from further rust.
Used this formulation yesterday and it is bloody amazing! I used half a litre of acid with ethyl and it started really kicking in within about 30 minutes - my finished project is a square metre of angle and flat steel as well as a load of 1 inch square tube, about 50kg weight in total. The reaction surprised me, my workpiece got very warm to the touch. Definitely a job for outside and not the garage, this morning there was a patch of horrible black gunk stuck to the road/footpath outside the house.
What WAS surprising was the effect the spray had on the mill scale - I'd previously only cleaned the parts that needed welding so there was a lot of scale. This morning it was at least 95% gone. Also the galvanised tube had been stripped clean. So this is definately a go-to method for welding prep, way cleaner and safer than using muriatic, and lots cheaper and less effort than grinding.
The metal was left with a coating of black grit, a coarse sandpaper texture. This came off easily with light steel-brushing. I've applied a coat of epoxy primer to one side and it looks immaculate, no bumpy bits, dead flat. So I'd give this methods a huge thumbs up. I've just ordered a litre of phosphoric online, definitely worth keeping some handy.
I am pleased to hear that you have achieved positive outcomes from it. As a gentle reminder to our esteemed audience, your generous donations and memberships to our channel are held in high regard and deeply appreciated.
At a chemical level, phosphoric acid is attacking the iron oxide and converting it into ferric phosphate. The ethyl alcohol is not doing much of anything - but it serves as a wonderful way to dilute the acid.
The resulting black stuff is Ferric Phosphate, and is fairly rust resistant and acid resistant, but not terribly water resistant. If you want to spend the time and make everything clean at this point, the Ferric Phosphate mineral salt accumulation should be a lot easier to remove than rust, and once you're down to clean metal you can apply any sort of surface treatment.
For areas that are not exposed to water frequently, just leaving the ferric phosphate may produce the desired rust resistance. For areas that ARE exposed to water (which can dissolve and penetrate ferric phosphate) a polyurethane coating should serve admirably to prevent further damage.
My personal thought is that the ferric phosphate - the black textured leftovers of phosphoric acid - is rather attractive and nicely chemically inert. I have done a couple of trailer frames with it and just hosed on rustoleum or POR-15 and had decent results. Nothing is perfect, nothing lasts forever. But! Killing rust and sealing the affected area can really slow down the ravages of time.
It definitely has a purpose. Try with and without
@@justahandchannel absolutely! I have a '77 dodge plow truck that's got some serious rust remediation coming, I'll do some mixing and testing!
Glad to be of help
Cool thanks 😊
No problem
Thankyou mate. I love people like you. Big companies sell with little to no results sometimes cos at the end of the day they will tell you what they want you to hear. Cheers
No problem 👍
You are on the right track. Im an industrial chemist and 40 years ago i worked in a company producing rust removers and other interesting stuff. We produced something equivalent to Jenolite at that time. The key ingredients are the phosphoric and the solvent. Alcohol works. Obviously kerosene and water insoluble solvents dont. It forms a passive film that can be over painted. As another commenter said if there is heavy rust scale it only converts the surface so thick or loose rust is still better removed mechanically. Back in the day I experimented with rinsing or not rinsing after a few days and as long as the film is dry it doesnt make a difference to paint adhesion.
Phosphoric is slow to burn, so it wont damage your hands much, but its bad for your eyes especially with the alcohol in..... Safety first. The Philippines ER isnt where you want to be :) Or the vet......
Thanks for the comment.
What a great post. Thank you
Mate the formula works great! I mixed up a bottle and sprayed my rusty trailer and now it's ready for a paint job. I used Methylated spirits instead of ethanol and it seems to work just fine. I've been buying rust converters for $20 for 250ml in australia and your formula works better and way cheaper. Thanks for sharing the magic formula.
You're welcome. I'm glad to help!
Just what I need, I'm going to try it. My battle with rust is never ending.
Thanks for clear common sense instructions!
👍😄👍!!
You're welcome
Rust never sleeps
You can win against it if you do it right
Took a class on automotive refinishing. They suggested a phosphoric acid treatment before painting. The iron/phosphorous black is microscopically shaped like a layer of hay and promotes paint adhesion.
good to know thanks
Are you suppose to sand off the iron/ phosphorus black before applying paint?
It's not necessary. You can if you want to make it smoother.
@@tonylee938 no, it's microscopic "hay" and much smaller than your paint layer
Lol I use a acid primer for bare metal it's used industrially for aluminium surface adhesion also a protestant layer from oxygen getting to the metals surface which would create rust and delamination of the metal it works well verry expensive though
The process of dissolving rust and other metals is called chelation. Weak acids (weak in the sense that they’re not strong acids like hydrochloric acid that not all their ions disassociate in water) like phosporic acid, oxalic acid, citric acid and acetic acid AKA vinegar will all react with rust (FE2O3) and other metal oxides like water streaks (calcium deposit) to remove the metal from oxygen and keep the metal ion suspended in solution. However since these are still acids they will still attack the base metal. This also happens when you cook acidic food in metal cookware, part of the metal ends up in your food - this is the reason why cooking on a cast iron pan increases the iron in your food because using it literally chips away at your pan bit by bit. What you can do to minimize attacking the metal through acid action is adding a weak base to the solution like sodium carbonate (Na2CO3) to bring the pH closer to neutral so the solution only attacks the metal oxide. This is actually how Evaporust works.
Good day sir - i used this method on my hood hinges and springs- bought a gallon jug of 85 percent food grade and diluted to a 30 percent solution and a 45 minute soak and picked up a hinge and said repeatedly no f ing way! They look brand new! ( i did clean dirt/grease off first with oven cleaner) im sold! Thanks bud
That's great. I'm happy to help!
Thank you for the great tip Bud!
I did exactly as per your directions and it works great "at a fraction of the cost".
Cheers, Lee
You're welcome!
I'm glad to have stumbled upon this video, no more wasting my money on overpriced metal prep. Thank you for the PSA. It's funny, I was literally thinking about how I should see if I can just buy phosphoric acid instead and this video popped up on my feed. Things just work out that way.
Certainly. I am happy to assist. Thanks for your support
Can you use it all over the car or just under the hood ?
Just a note - glad you poured the acid into water, not the other way around. Always pour acid in water, do it opposite & it may react, foam up & spray out onto your eyes & face. Can't wait to use this formula. Looks better than the products sold for this purpose, and no more plugged nozzles on spray cans !
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video. I knew there was a DIY solution to the rust problem. I have a used 2nd Gen Ram2500 that spent some of its life next to the Pacific Ocean and had undercarriage rust to prove it. I will be using the knowledge you passed on to stop the rust. A body guy told me once "rust never sleeps". Until you stop it with measure like your recipe.
Glad to see you are in PI. My ex is Fipipina. We used to go ballroom dancing every weekend at Filipino gatherings. I miss my Filipino friends more than I miss her. They are Gods people. I even took some Tagalog lessons to "fit in" a little. You should have seen their faces one time during a dance lesson when I responded to a question in perfect Tagalog!! They said I make their nose bleed. 😂🤣
Maraming Salamat
I envy you! I live on the next big island to the left of Just a Hand and they have 4 dialects here and the level of spoken Filipino/Tagalog is surprisingly low, especially among the kids - thank lockdowns for that, they didn't help. So more often than not when I spout some pidgin Tagalog in a shop I get a blank look - bloody depressing! I lived in Spain for 3 years and got along fine in Spanish, so I can learn languages - just not here!
The 2nd Gen Rams were known as the biodegradable trucks 🙃. I use cans of rust proofing oil to prevent rust. I have a rust free 98, and I live in Canada. You also have to ream out the drain hole in behind the bottom of the front fender, or it'll collect mud. Pop open the plugs behind the rockers periodically and spray with water followed by oiling. Don't forget to put the plugs back in after. There's a bracket that collects mud and will rot out the cab corner. You have to remove the interior to get to it. Take it out and throw it away. You can oil the inside of the body while the interior is out. The rear wheel wells also like to collect mud. Take out the tail lights and spray inside the fenders with water, followed by oiling. I also drilled drain holes in behind the wheel wells so they dont collect mud. Gotta keep the old vehicles going for as long as possible. The new ones are out to lunch with their prices
It is very difficult to learn language here because it isn't latin based. I'm struggling very hard myself to learn the local dialect which covers a very small area
Wow! That's the best rust converter I've seen. Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it!
I spent years looking for the right solution. I'm glad to share it with you
Nice one will try this. Hi from the uk
Hey great video - such a simple way to treat rust and prepare a rusty surface for painting! I look forward to trying this out! Thank you for sharing!👍
Glad it was helpful!
There is some stuff called OSPHO. Its been used in the marine trades for years. Just spray it on with a squirt bottle, bonds with rust to prevent any further rusting. It can be painted over and doesnt need to be washed off or neutralized. Spray on and let dry then paint. If you spray new steel in a ballast tank on a boat, it will last for 2 or 3 years in salt water before you need to spray some more on and the steel will look like new steel with no signs of corrosion. In a boat tank, we usually used floor mops, the string type to apply it. Used it on the frame of my 87 F150 before I painted it. Any major paint supplier should carry it, if not, find a marine paint supplier.
........and now you know how to make it yourself.
For someone like me, this is like magic! I’ve just bought a second hand car that has a few small rust spots that I can now treat and I’ll have a go at the underside too. Thanks so much for sharing this.👍
You're very welcome!
TH-cam is very strange sometimes... I would say that at least 80% of what I watch on YT (I have no cable TV) is restoring old cars and travel channels about the Philippines. Channels such as Fitzee's Fabrications, Uncle Tony's Garage, Dead Dodge Garage on the auto restoration side and Old Dog, Sunshine Shoulders, Q Adventures, The Regular Guy on the Philippines, and yet it appears to have taken a long time for YT's algorithm to put two & two together for me to serve up your channel! And to top it all off, I'm a Mopar guy. Anyways, glad your channel popped up in my feed and I will check it out. Cheers from a fellow Ontarion.
I'm glad you finally found my channel. You're right about the algorithm. It's hard to get myself out there
Same here.. appreciate your video and Texas is in The house.. Very grateful for the info! . I have the cheapo expanded metal table and chairs that have the rust thing going on, so will try your formula. Any thoughts of using muratic acid instead, since I have it on hand. And did I understand correctly that there is no need to rinse, must wire brush and seal, before painting?
You are correct, there is no need to rinse or neutralize the formula. Muriatic acid can do the job, but you have to be very careful. How long you leave it on for it and to neutralize it properly. If you don't do things just perfect, then you will regret using it. If any of the acid remains, then it could ruin your paint down the road
Dry Ice blasting is lightening fast and works and is safe on "everything" It dries almost instantly and works like "magic" ! It's a little pricey, but when you need it right now, it's worth it ! It also removes old cooked on grease and oil on engines , transmissions and rear ends ! The first time I used it, I could not believe my eyes !
There are various approaches to addressing rust issues. During my years in the media blasting industry, I discovered that crushed glass and plastic media are highly effective for vehicles that have undergone multiple body jobs and paint over the years. These media effectively remove all materials. However, it is important to note that this method may not be financially feasible or practical for many individuals and in many situations. I use the rust spray quite frequently as it's quick and easy.
The only place in metro Detroit area doing dry ice cleaning wants $1000.00 to do the underside of a car.
Dry ice blast is amazing but people are charging $3k+ in many areas for the underside of a vehicle.
Is that a do it yourself method? Do you have a TH-cam video?
@@Susan70003 There is no real "do it yourself" method unfortunately. The equipment needed to do any dry ice blasting work is incredibly expensive. Just the type of air compressor required will run you a minimum of $10k+
I use a product which has phosphorus in it and I rub down any areas after I’ve wire wheeled the heavy stuff off. It works great. Helps the paint bind to it as well.
Yes, it etches the metal as well
Nice upload Sir, I plan on using your solution to treat the frame on my lincoln town car. Your knowledge and experience is very much appreciated.
Keep informing the people...
Thanks. I plan to make more content like this. Stay tuned.
Thank you very much for this no nonsense video on rust remediation.
You are very welcome!
Thank you for sharing this, I purchased a spray can to deal with some lightly pitted areas on a tractor bonnet I did last year (that I couldn't clean up right with my angle grinder and wire brush) and paid 35 euro for it, it did exactly the same job you just did here at a fraction of the cost. That acid is sold here as milk stone remover for use in dairy equipment, all the best to you sir from Co mayo ireland, 🇮🇪
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!!
@@justahandchannel the pleasures all mine, it's great to see people like yourself that have knowledge of this stuff and are willing to share it, big industry won't make this info available that's for sure! All the best ,👍
I believe that method is effective. However, it would be more efficient to use phosphoric acid directly instead of the entire Coca-Cola composition. As far as I can tell, phosphoric acid is the only active ingredient in this case. The effectiveness of carbonated water and sugar in this situation is uncertain.
Gold mine of information. Suprising results. Thanks alot.
You're welcome alot! 😁
Excellent video! I'm going to try this!
I've always sprayed old oil and diesel on old metal I wanted to stop rust. Works good.
Great video.
Thank you!
Thank you, Brother, for sharing knowledge. I have a large trailer smoker I plan on having sandblast. I was worried about overnight rusting from dew forming on the tank. You saved me a headache.
Glad to help!
Thanks
Thank you very much!
Good information. Thanks for sharing. Cheers from Canada!
You're welcome, ay!
Excellent!
I used neat phosphoric acid (bought from a lab 5 litres) to treat inside the stripped shell of my horsebox couple years back, only had a brush so a bit messy and couldnt get to everything. It worked well as 2 years later after parked out in uk weather it has remained the same converted state with white deposits where the rain hasnt got to it and light surface rust on those that got rained on.
Im now finally able to get on with sorting this truck out so will dilute and spray on for good measure as you've shown before my next preps (very glad I dont have to rinse it off and dry with a towel before painting like so many others say to 😂).
Like many commenters Im not sure why the hand gel but the commercial products have their reasons (maybe it inhibits bacteria growth or something to lengthen their shelf life).
Thankyou!
Glad you like it!
Great information! Thanks to the both of you for sharing!
You bet!
Great info. Love the Circuit Gilles-Villeneuve shirt!
Thanks!
This is really interesting. Glad you posted. I would much rather learn what is in the bottles rather than just buying a can of magic.
You're welcome
As a shipwright, Phosphoric acid is indispensible. Thanks for laying out the proportions for first-timers. I have not heard of the ethanol addition before.... I will try it out. I have found that a coat of undiluted Phos overnight will actually dissolve rust without the severe pitting caused by HCl. It will leave a sticky residue which I wash off with hot water and air-dry. I then recoat with 1:2 Phos solution and let that airdry. This leaves a whitish powdery coating (the iron phosphate) which is protective, so dont wipe it off. This can then be paint-primed, or be sealed with epoxy. I am keen to see what the ethanol adds.... speeds up the air-drying🤔? Thanks for this neat video. There are a million rust-cure you-tubes, but yours is straight to the point, and I know it works.
Shipfitter here, have you ever used prestone antifreeze to kill and prevent dry rot? A shipwright friend showed me that trick.
You're welcome!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for the super gift!!
just ran into your video randomly, wanting to do some underframe rust work on my 4x4 so perfect timing to try it out
Good timing then 😁
Great to know this, “Just a Hand!” Gonna put this knowledge to use tomorrow. Many thanks!
You're welcome. I'm glad to help
Great video buddy. Thanks for this info and video. Have a lot of equipment needing a clean up, going to give this a try. 😊
Thank you.
I have to say this mix works fairly well. I tested on a rusty crusty spare rim. Wire wheel the rim then put mix on with paint brush. Now I will prime it and it should be good to go. 02 tundra underneath up next. Xxx finger!!! Heavy pitted rust gives you a hammered type look,but it gets in the bumps. Thank you for the video. Got my stuff from duda in AL, but check local farm stores,as it is also a fertilizer! +
Glad it worked well for you!
Ahhhh, good ole' Shopee...had to learn about that one when I was in Indonesia. The notification sound is addictive. lol
Thank you for sharing this tip with us all. You are a star and please bring out new videos...
Thank you 😀
Thanks for watching. I will be starting to make more content soon. Building the house has been very time consuming.
That's a great idea thank you I have a lot of rust underneath my SUV I would love to spray this stuff on there after The rust is gone I can prime it and undercoat
Thanks!
Me and hubby have classic cars and we buy shed loads of rust treatments so this will save us money
Thanks matey
Mandy
Devon
Uk 🇬🇧
It is my pleasure to assist my fellow car enthusiasts. It is crucial that we make every effort to preserve as many of these automobiles as possible.
Almost any strong acid will work for rust removal. My favorite cheap one is toilet bowl cleaner. As long as it has hydrochloric acid in it it will work. I've saved many motorcycle gas tanks with it.
I can't endorse or deny that claim. But I would worry about contamination and having to neutralize different kinds of acid. Whereas this formula will not need any of that. I wouldn't want to have something in paint and then see it bubble the first time it rains.
Yes, but Phosphoric as was stated does not corrode rubber, plastic , or soft materials. Vinegar works well too, but eats at seals, rubber etc.
That's spot on
Hydrochloric acid will made ferric chloride acid when it dissolves iron (which steel contains), ferric chloride acid will then dissolve steel given enough exposure. It will etch and protect and it may work fine but phosphoric acid will do a better job because it will convert the rust straight to iron phosphate ready to prime and paint and it’s not as bad (toxic gases) to with with
@RobHaag71 good to know. You learn something new every day.
That is amazing, I have been looking for a solution the rust on the frame of a car I am working on.
This one is by far the easiest, safest and most effective! 👍
Glad to help!
❤😂 Your beautiful dog is like a bratty little kid,talking back when you told him to get away from the chemicals 🤣
Yes, she has quite the attitude 😆
Getting a chemistry lesson reading all the post , 😂, Love your presentation and the idea. Thanks!!!
Thanks!
great video, thank you for sharing. need to try this on a bunch of rusted parts.
Go for it!
Amazing work. O O telega! Beautiful dog too! Thank you kindly.
Salamat!
You're Awesome, Thank You!! An alternative to all the expensive products online that are probably the same thing, but you made it cheaper. I have an old Bronco that needs this.
Cheaper and not watered down! You are quite welcome.
You are correct sir rust is a. Form of energy that never sleeps it's to bad we can't harness that form of energy
I got an old bronco as well that needs some help.
Klean-strip metal etch and prep (contains phosphoric acid) at lowes/home depot is the best Ive used for dipping rusted parts in but I imagine pure phosphoric acid works even quicker.
AWESOME video. It's so organic and yet it's very useful.
Thank you. That's why I like it so much too.
Awesome info I wish I knew this a long time ago. Thank you for sharing!
Better late than never.
been using the green stuff for years (prep and etch phosphoric acid). I used a pump sprayer with it and use it as a primer before painting frames. in the US you can get it in a gallon at home depot
How have I lived this long and not known this? Lol Thank you for doing this video. Subscribed.
Thanks for joining. We've been waiting for you 😁
Very helpful video, thank you! Best wishes to you in the Phillipines.
Thank you very much and best wishes to you wherever you are.
A component of Pepsi and Coca Cola (and probably all colas) is phosphoric acid which takes minerals out of your bones to neutralize it, and the reason to rarely or never drink the stuff and the reason they remove rust.
A significant quantity of the food consumed contains phosphoric acid.
Wow, thank you for this content.. information like this is so empowering and most everyone can benefit from a solid way to fight rust! Thanks!
You're welcome. I will soon be adding more great ways to fight rust among other things.
Phosphoric acid is also the main ingredient for parkerizing solution in gunsmithing.
It is used for many different purposes. And the companies slap their name on it and charge ridiculous amounts to purchase it. You can buy a pass all of that and save a ton of money.
I have always wondered how the parkerized. Had a shotgun parkerized in the early 80’s .still have it and it looks like it did when it was done. It is my beater gun.
@@marshallcollins8634I’m
I have been using Kleen Strip Concrete prep, available at most home improvement stores in the states and far less expensive than the Ospho brand with the same chemicals.
Phosphoric acid is the key though, thanks for the video.
You're welcome!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge..this sharing of knowledge is what makes youtube a good thing
It is great when people share the proper information and not fake.
Very timely and informative. Have an upcoming poor mans resto coming up on a truck. Thanks a million!
No problem. Stay tuned because we will be making more content like this shortly
AWESOME!! Thank you for this!!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks
Thank you very much! Your help means alot!
No need to wire brush or clean is a bonus. Thanks for the video
No problem 👍
Excellent information, can't wait to try it! Thank you!
You're welcome!
Great! Now, here in Norway i pay ca 10 $ for 250 ml of water based rust converter which works great, and that amount covers a lot of metal. To keep the rust away from my 1977 Ford Escort long term more is needed - Fluid Film.
Fluid Film is great stuff. I use it to protect high carbon steel.knives and outdoor equipment in storage. Apply as THIN a coat as possible in those cases, a literal film is all you need
Can't thank you enough for this !! Great info, cheers brother !
Glad to help!
White vinegar works well on dissolving rust and it doesn't have to be the super concentrated versions like 30-50-or 70 % either !
I respectfully disagree with your opinion. In a previous experiment, I utilized vinegar as a testing agent.
I never get tired of seeing the transformation of rust to iron phosphate.
Yeah. It never gets old
Great vid. Thanks for sharing.
Subscribed.
Awesome, thank you!
I just got my 98 Jeep XJ back and its from Syracuse NY so I definitely needed this. Gonna use flame proof exhaust paint & truck bed liner to survive these Detroit winters. Subscribed
Thank you for your service🖖
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Awesome info!!! Thanks so much. After I treat the rust under my truck what should be used to protect it?
It depends what results you want. If it is just a daily driver then you can use a rust prevention treatment.
I am in Buffalo, probably the worst for rust in the world.
I squirt / spray oil into every door panel, rocker panel, sealed cavity, onto all metal lines, around the wheel housings and frame. Oil will "Creep" and prevent oxidation.
On exposed areas, it will fade over time.
There are oil based rust treatment shops in the area. Even lawnmower decks that are very rusted can be preserved for a long time if they are wire wheel cleaned and oiled, but a Cosmoline (Tectyl) wax based works great and lasts longer. Mike
Oh wao, my deepest apreciation to you. I was looking for this, and I stumbled with your video when I started looking on the internet. Thank you very much. Please continue with more videos. Your explanations are simple and to the point. Kudos
You're welcome
Well I loved this vid,and after reading alot of comments and answers,I cant wait to try I love it and it makes sense.Great work!!
Thank you very much!
Jeez, that's the first XR150L exhaust that I've heard that sounds GOOD! Got my 2024 XR150L last week (selling the vStrom). The XR needs jets, foot-pegs, front sprocket, ... to get started. (minimal costs). Then handlebars, exhaust, and a taller seat! (that's impossible to find, so far).
I think you confused my video with another. But thanks for watching!
Thanks For your tip , answered my needs ! As im cleaning an undercoating a 30 year old truck today...THANKS
Glad to help
Thank you for this video it really helped me out. I used the the bed liner stuff and paint brushed builds up on my under body of the car . If I sprayed it on it should eat throw all that stuff underneath the car. Maybe? I have a 2005 mercury montego with only a 116,000 mile and had this car for 5 years now. 5 years ago it had 75,000 miles then. The transmission use to Bang in over drive and kick down. Only under pressure. I changed the transmission fluid 2 qts at a time and started this at 78,000 miles it has a toyota transmission and had to use mobil 1 3309 mineral oils and since that time it's working pretty good and there is a way to reprogram the car with a wire . Take the negative wire off the battery and lift it off and put a towel over the negative post and then get a wire and connect from the positive cable to the negative wire without it touching the negative posts for a few minutes and then take it off and connect the negative back . Make sure everything in the car is off . Lights, air conditioning, and start car and let it idle for 10 minutes to relearn and then take it for a ride slow and then build up slowly relearn the way you drive and that's it. Not like old school, 70s and 80s car a screw driver and a pack of matches will get you started.
You're welcome
Thanks!Nice Shepard.
Thanks!
Thanks for the information amigo. I appreciate tips like this.
No hay problema 😁
Awesome. Thanks for the vid!
You bet!
Great video. Thank you!
Thank you!
Great info, many thanks!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video I got my asset from a cleaning supply company they sell it to clean coffee machines here in Australia cheers Graham
Good to know thanks
Thank you, I'll get these ingredients for my rusty box trailer.
Great!
Thanks for the tips on creating a rust killer. Great video. Cheaper than buying Corroseal. 👍🏻👍🏻
You’re welcome!
I got a couple of cheap hacks mix roofing tar and diesel and a tiny bit of paint thinner and you have a huge quantity of asphalt undercoating oven cleaner as decreaser not bad or gasoline and a brush for really greasy engines cheap aswell super cost effective methods I use a vat with water and pool acid o ph down it is acid essentially also any type of drano will remove heavy rust completely
To each their own. I like to make things clean and nice.
@@justahandchannel for when that’s not an option cars rust out completely in less than 5 years where I’m from
You must be from Ontario 😄
Thank you for the video on the rust remover pretty cool and you seem knowledeable on these type of things and would make someone a good friend .
Thank you Jerry
Thanks Jerry. I could use some friends here. 😁
Recently watched a TH-cam vid of a guy that made a formula with citric acid and baking soda that outperformed evaporust. It remained reusable. while evaporust would get dirty and gunky and perform slower.
The high point of the video was that is incredibly cheap to make vs phosphoric acid
I have already conducted experiments with that composition and still prefer my method due to its increased effectiveness.
Thank you for your tips on rust removal 🙏 I’ve just bought a used stick welder and your suggestion will come in handy for removing rust from incomplete projects that left outside in the garden as they are too big to go in the garage 🙏
Glad to help
@@justahandchannel as @djgomaz1 mentioned about the welding. Will this product leave any residue that could contiminate the flux of the welding rods without cleaning it off please? Great info mate and well presented
I recommend that you prepare the welding areas by grinding them to ensure a clean and proper contact surface. While the chemical itself does not directly impact the welding process, the presence of impurities or contaminants on the surface can hinder the effectiveness of the weld. Therefore, it is crucial to maintain a clean surface for optimal welding results.
Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), and methanol (methyl alcohol) will work just as good as ethanol. Pure ethanol (punctilious alcohol) is hard to come by in the US because you can drink it without going blind and the government wants to put a tax stamp on the container. 100% ethanol (heavily taxed by the US government) can be found in some liquor stores as grain alcohol and it will be labeled as 200 proof. Just go to Home Depot or Lowes and by a container of methanol (methyl alcohol). It will be with the acetone and the paint thinner and mineral spirits and lacquer thinner and such, and if you drink it, you will go blind. Hey, you can buy rubbing alcohol at the grocery store. All of the alcohols mix with water. Denatured alcohol is ethanol that has unsavory liquids added to it on purpose so that you won't want to drink it or if you do drink it, it might make you vomit. It is not expensive because the government doesn't tax it like a single malt scotch.
Sounds like you have alot of experience drinking non consumable products. I hope you can still see to read this message 😄
Just a hand, I like the pun. love your outlook on life as it is.
Thank you. Keep watching as our channel will get better!
Fantastic, keep 'em coming!
Thanks
I have used this phosphoric acid treatment for 40 years. After treatment it usually stays black unless I leave it out side over night and the moisture gets to it. Then I usually have to do it again as overnight the rusting process can begin again.
So do we put the protectant primer and sealer after an hour or so?
So do we put the primer and sealant spray on after an hour or so?
👍
What is the ethanol for in the mix?
Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
You're welcome. Stay tuned for more videos on metal, rust and classic cars coming soon!
Great tip thanks
You're welcome
I’m restoring a 76 Trans Am,and dealing with some light surface rust under hood on the engine block, suspension parts, etc. I used your formula, and it left white powder looking results on the bare metal. What is that and how do I avoid that from happening again? How do I get it off the parts that it is on now? Thanks so much for your channel! Yep, I subscribed!
The white residue is typically a result of the product remaining on the treated surface. It is commonly observed on top surfaces due to limited evaporation. To mitigate this issue, consider using a blow gun ten minutes after application to remove excess product. For residue removal, re-spray the affected areas and wipe them with a cloth. Thanks for the sub!
OK thanks for the fast reply! You ARE the man!
You're welcome!
Thank you for sharing this!!
You are so welcome!
Thanks for the wonderful video. You could be my neighbour any day. It seems like you have an active mind with lots of stuff going on in it. I look forward to viewing mor of your videos.
Indeed, you are correct. My mind is constantly active, and I have numerous projects that I am eager to undertake. Please stay tuned for more videos. I appreciate your joining us.
im not against any method really, but practically speaking, 'going at' a vehicle undercarriage or frame just spraying it with something is going to cause more damage than it fixes .. individual removed parts, ok yeah, treat them then paint them ... but the easiest way to stave off corrosion under a vehicle is - save your old oil from an oil change, get you an old towel and soak it in it, jack your car up and start wiping .. its a dirty job😂 .. but highly effective .. i would spray off sand or caked up stuff first and let it dry .. youll be surprised how good it looks if your thorough, and the oil film will stay on for a long time, if it starts looking dry in a year or so hit it again ..
That works great for a daily driver but this method is more geared to people with classic cars when they intend to have a painted finish or like myself, they don't want oil over everything.
It's personal preference.
Thanks for reminding me of this method. I agree with you. My deceased brother was a real mechanical genius and he taught me your method years ago. The oil also protects the undercarriage from further rust.