He could have cracked the hub, he damaged the wishbone bolts, he definitely damaged the bolt holes that ensure the balljoint is held in. He's certainly a cowboy.
🤣@@J-D Let me guess, you'd have bought the $600 tool from Ford, written off the profit from the whole job, put the tool in your toolbox and probably never used it again?
@@timjohnun4297 that's the problem with reading into what someone is saying. Just bad technique in his part, didn't chill the part, didn't hear the hub, no lube, not even wd30, hitting bolts into the holes, gunning bilts before ensuring they're threaded ( one of the suspension bolts clearly binds before he tightens it fully, ) skipped the heat shield and shim, gunned every bolt and didn't check a single one with a ratchet let alone a torque wrench. No lube on anything. Need I say more? His idea may have worked however it could have been done better.... and that vehicle is definitely not road safe.
What I find impressive is how Ray has a lot of problems and things that aren’t so straightforward but doesn’t seem to get to stressed and always keeps videoing. I know that I would have thrown the camera at times but I’ve never seen Ray get frustrated with getting the shot. Great job Ray.👏
@@Drekulviin I would make a great deal of sense. Not that I have seen it but it seems like he has a guardian angel. I have been in stressful situations regarding the machinery I was in charge of. I would be covered in grease and crap and a coffee was enough to make me go off the rails let alone having to worry about filming it lol
We have a saying, here in Britain; these ‘special’ tools are sold in stores with ‘big windows’ for a reason - so they can see us coming! Well done for finding a way around it. Excellent video.
Many years ago I did a break job on a sierra, which stated I need “specialist ford tool 09”. £30. 😮 It was a ‘C’ spanner, but what I actually used was a the shank of a screwdriver to wind in the piston.
Fine job Ray, I have one of these fine vehicles waiting on my rack for tomorrow morning. I am in Ohio and there are holes in the subframe and none of the bolts will budge...I'm planning on cutting anything in my way getting to the trans pan to replace the lead frame. I guess its going to be a well planned out controlled slaughtering
I'd LOVE to see a collab between you and Watch Wes Work on two different vehicles. One from his home turf and one from yours. I mean, from the other side of the screen, you both seem to be doing good work( I'd be happy to bring my car to either of you), but the commentary about the other guy's regular working conditions is destined to be LEGENDARY.
To help anyone reading, and for the next one you do, for the re-install all you need is the correct diameter closed cup out of your run of the mill ball joint press kit and the fit is loose enough I've been able to use the cup and my air hammer (snap-on current gen) with the standard hammer head bit and drive them in. Just make sure you either use studs or you can even red neck it and use screw drivers or longer bolts from around the shop to line up your holes. The way you do it here bends the flanges. My way uses the surface area around the joint evenly and is pretty fast! Keep turning out them hours brothers
When I worked for a company called break parts (a division of echlin vehicle parts) when we pressed anything we used WD40 it provides a little lube but dries out over a couple hours.. we did this on clean drilled holes when we pressed in studs.. with WD40 it took 2000 pounds pressure.. without it, it took almost 2x the pressure
As I said in my comment to part 1, if you use longer lengths of studding, a 3/4" drive socket (or cup as you used there) big enough to fit over the balljoint and a heavy gauge plate under it, you can draw the balljoint all the way in without risking bending the flange, or damaging the threads. I've replaced lots of them using this method, when I was maintaining a fleet of Transits in the UK.
A perfect example of how to do it the easy way. Unfortunately Ray either doesn't read all the comments or he doesn't like suggestions. I've made suggestions on a few videos but it made no odds. Unfortunately he's his own worst enemy sometimes.
Or just stack half a dozen washers on each stud between the nut and the flange, so he can use the nuts to drive the joint all the way home without running out of thread on the stud.
one stooge neither learns, understands physics, nor is he humble enough to learn from mechanics that do the thing daily, even diy knows to prelube , preheat, prefreeze,,,
If you lived in the rust belt you might put never seize on the ball joint before inserting it. And this would assist the next owner of the ball joint when he gets it from the scrap yard.
Ray as ever, your substitution superpower hit a home run changing a ridiculous expensive tool install into a semi-basic tool exercise. Your analytical skills are awesome. Respect from downunder.
"Adapt and overcome" would be a great mission statement for your shop Ray. Your ability to create the means and methodology to overcome obstacles daily exhibits a high level of practical reasoning and logic. Troy is fortunate to have you as a mentor.
What ever work, some tools have to be modified to get the job done. Ray's videos is like a video book that he can go back to as many job's don't go the same way and help let the customer see what he did to fix the problem and when he looks over the vehicle's to access what needs to be replaced, what is more important to fix now and needs attention a few months down the road as he looks out for customers pocket. That's why he has a great following, a family run business is great.
9:16 My favorite trim tool for so many different things and yes, it works wonderful as well as the bigger kind of pry bar trim tool has worked very well for other things as well that you don’t want to mess up
Hi Ray, I noticed on the video where you removed the ball joints on this van, there was a thin piece of stamped metal sandwiched between the ball joint flange and mount. I'm guessing these were heat shields to protect the ball joint from the heat coming off the brake disc. I see you didn't reinstall these with the new ball joints and I hope it doesn't lead to premature failure of the new ball joints.
Corner break the top edge of balljoint with segmented abrasive wheel and apply high temp copper antiseize. 50% less force needed. Contrary to popular belief, antiseize will allow pressfit to hold better by eliminating galling of dry assem😊bly.
Hi Ray, to get the angle of the control arms to level out before tightening the front rubber bush bolts the van wheels not only have to be resting on the floor, the van also has to be wheeled back and forth a little way (to get rid of outward tyre friction on the floor) this will allow the front wheel track to widen as the angle of the control arms flatten out with the weight of the van.
Those kind of bushings are a pain but...... Creat a slight chamfer on the first 1/4 inch of the ball joint body with a flapperwheel (on an angle grinder) . Polish off the chamfer with fine emery. Smear assembly grease around all the press fit areas. Still goes on tight but wont bend flanges or chance wiping out threads. . I would have used the original bolts that you first tried but a nut at the flange. That way you can hold back on the bolt while tightening up the nut . this assembnbly prevents the chances of tearing up the mounting threads. I never use a power tool when pressing in ball joints and bushings. A spanner gives a better feel for what is happening as the press fit task is done.
Did a Volvo that had the same design, except Volvo uses an adapter you simply hammer on. I used a large socket and hammer. Next time I will order the adapter, its cheap enough. Same deal with order of operations to make everything fit. I found the ball joint wasn't seated completely, tap and tighten until the bolts stay tight. First time I did one of that design but common sense tells you what to do. This Volvo used an aluminum LCA, the ball joint was part of the arm, but the new arm did not come with it, thanks Moog!! The BJ hole was closed end too.
Y calentar el orificio que hace que éste se expanda y abra, facilitando la introducción del cuerpo de la rótula. No olvidar un lubricante, para evitar fricción extra o recalentamientos si el diámetro es pequeño. Cualquier interpretación, será a vuestro propio riesgo. 😅
Dry Ice generally available in metro areas, possibly even still available at Baskin Robbins. I once made the mistake of going to my sisters for dinner, bringing a quart of ice cream, with a chunk of dry ice in the bag..... put the whole bag in her freezer... by dessert time we had a quart of concrete... two days in freezer before it would yield to a scoop. Memories.@@gimmeaford9454
Ray, I know mechanic work is not easy. You did a great job improvising with the tools you have, you make it look easy. I really like watching your videos on TH-cam, it's very educational. 👍
You're impact reminded me, i need to charge my batteries. I'm replacing the bolts on the suspension of my utility trailer with some wet bolts, and my impact won't break the old bolts loose without heating them with a torch first.
If you are ever doing the wheel bearing, strut and ball joint on a Transit, Ford sells a pre-assembled steering knuckle and strut assembly with it all on there already.
I used to use the same method when installing the top ball joints into Mitsubishi Rosa buses. I had a set of 3 bolts that I would use to align the holes, tighten them until they were snug, then swap them out for a thinner bolt that went through the threaded section of the control arm, and put a nut on top. Then I could tighten the crap out of them without risking damage to the threads in the control arm. I did damage the threads quite regularly, on the bolts, but saved a ton of time from not having to remove the control arm. And I could just bin the bolts when done
Next time you have a job like that put the ball joints in the freezer and apply a bit of heat to the knuckle casting - makes it easier to get the ball joints in to seat
Ray is the true Master Mechanic! Great work around getting those new ball joints in! Working on different types of cars, Ray knows how to adapt and tackle the tricky jobs.👍
Just simply using a matching thread pitch on your studs and nuts would have prevented so much friction and wasted effort driving the nuts up to press it in. I get that you didn't mind they got ruined in the process but it just makes the job harder unnecessarily and risks binding the studs in to the knuckle where they snap and need drilling out. You were fortunate here.
Wow the second ball joint you did went so much smoother. I really didn't see the flames bend. Although I am a little bit inebriated right now. I think you did a great job. I hated doing press in ball joints.
There was a spacer between the old ball joint and the knuckle. Now that the new ball joint has already been pressed in, my “expert hindsight”😊 wonders if it needed to be in there.
great method to press in the ball joints! it is bad how the front end is damaged and you have to adjust mounting parts. great video, can not wait for the next one!
Even if Ray has a freezer at the shop, most of the time he gets the new parts as he is working on the car. Doesn’t have time to wait a few hours for the part to get cold enough to shrink. Ok if you get the part today an won’t work on the car until tomorrow. You still have to remember to put the part in the freezer. LOL😮👍🇺🇸
So much of that front bumper support assembly seems like the engineers forgot that they needed those crash bar supports until they were almost finished and just threw it in there at the end.
They actually are. The transits here in europe do not have those. And since this is a european design, the USA version is probably redesigned for American regulations.
What if you have no time for the freezer? Lol. Just do it Rays way!!! Jus saying it worked and didn't waste anytime doing it. Actually quicker than that special tool. Setting up that tool would have probably taken longer. Great work Ray! Love the content! 👍🏾👍🏾
Heart was in my mouth, waiting for one of the sacrificial studs to shear off, leaving us in what’s becoming a familiar situation for Ray.
Makes me wonder how many cars he has worked on that are running around with stripped nuts and bolts coming lose.
dozen of them sitting outside for various damages, previously fired probably customers complained about these kind of creative hacking.@@ateam6486
He could have cracked the hub, he damaged the wishbone bolts, he definitely damaged the bolt holes that ensure the balljoint is held in. He's certainly a cowboy.
🤣@@J-D Let me guess, you'd have bought the $600 tool from Ford, written off the profit from the whole job, put the tool in your toolbox and probably never used it again?
@@timjohnun4297 that's the problem with reading into what someone is saying. Just bad technique in his part, didn't chill the part, didn't hear the hub, no lube, not even wd30, hitting bolts into the holes, gunning bilts before ensuring they're threaded ( one of the suspension bolts clearly binds before he tightens it fully, ) skipped the heat shield and shim, gunned every bolt and didn't check a single one with a ratchet let alone a torque wrench. No lube on anything. Need I say more? His idea may have worked however it could have been done better.... and that vehicle is definitely not road safe.
Put the ball joints in the freezer overnight and heat up the knuckle with a map torch and they will fall in the hole
Ford: "You need a special tool to install these ball joints."
Ray: "Hold my beer."
That job is a proper area for swerking. Swearing while Working. Proud of you Ray for not doing what I would have done!
What I find impressive is how Ray has a lot of problems and things that aren’t so straightforward but doesn’t seem to get to stressed and always keeps videoing. I know that I would have thrown the camera at times but I’ve never seen Ray get frustrated with getting the shot. Great job Ray.👏
I find that is one reason why I watch these videos.
Same here. Along with his technical skills, he demonstrates much restraint when facing challenging conditions.
Well done Ray!
You will note that you have never seen a BMW in his shop.....
He said it once, he edit his videos and cut those parts out.
@@Drekulviin I would make a great deal of sense. Not that I have seen it but it seems like he has a guardian angel. I have been in stressful situations regarding the machinery I was in charge of. I would be covered in grease and crap and a coffee was enough to make me go off the rails let alone having to worry about filming it lol
We have a saying, here in Britain; these ‘special’ tools are sold in stores with ‘big windows’ for a reason - so they can see us coming! Well done for finding a way around it. Excellent video.
Many years ago I did a break job on a sierra, which stated I need “specialist ford tool 09”. £30. 😮 It was a ‘C’ spanner, but what I actually used was a the shank of a screwdriver to wind in the piston.
Customer states you will need a 600 dollar tool for this job
Great work Ray, I was a field service mechanic for 46 years and thinking out of the box is normal when the job requires it. Again great job.
Fine job Ray, I have one of these fine vehicles waiting on my rack for tomorrow morning. I am in Ohio and there are holes in the subframe and none of the bolts will budge...I'm planning on cutting anything in my way getting to the trans pan to replace the lead frame. I guess its going to be a well planned out controlled slaughtering
As a few people have said freeze ball joints the night before and use a bottle jack in centre.
Lower the car and the weight does it for you.
Good morning sir! hope you're day is awesome and productive my TH-cam friend
I'd LOVE to see a collab between you and Watch Wes Work on two different vehicles. One from his home turf and one from yours.
I mean, from the other side of the screen, you both seem to be doing good work( I'd be happy to bring my car to either of you), but the commentary about the other guy's regular working conditions is destined to be LEGENDARY.
To help anyone reading, and for the next one you do, for the re-install all you need is the correct diameter closed cup out of your run of the mill ball joint press kit and the fit is loose enough I've been able to use the cup and my air hammer (snap-on current gen) with the standard hammer head bit and drive them in. Just make sure you either use studs or you can even red neck it and use screw drivers or longer bolts from around the shop to line up your holes. The way you do it here bends the flanges. My way uses the surface area around the joint evenly and is pretty fast! Keep turning out them hours brothers
When I worked for a company called break parts (a division of echlin vehicle parts) when we pressed anything we used WD40 it provides a little lube but dries out over a couple hours.. we did this on clean drilled holes when we pressed in studs.. with WD40 it took 2000 pounds pressure.. without it, it took almost 2x the pressure
I would have put some oil on the ball joint OD when pressing it in. Nice work again.
As I said in my comment to part 1, if you use longer lengths of studding, a 3/4" drive socket (or cup as you used there) big enough to fit over the balljoint and a heavy gauge plate under it, you can draw the balljoint all the way in without risking bending the flange, or damaging the threads. I've replaced lots of them using this method, when I was maintaining a fleet of Transits in the UK.
A perfect example of how to do it the easy way.
Unfortunately Ray either doesn't read all the comments or he doesn't like suggestions.
I've made suggestions on a few videos but it made no odds.
Unfortunately he's his own worst enemy sometimes.
@@TheOriginalDaveJ agreed he is his worst enemy sometimes
Or just stack half a dozen washers on each stud between the nut and the flange, so he can use the nuts to drive the joint all the way home without running out of thread on the stud.
one stooge neither learns, understands physics, nor is he humble enough to learn from mechanics that do the thing daily, even diy knows to prelube , preheat, prefreeze,,,
Ppl don't know how to set up a ball joint press anymore 😢
Ray you know how it is you get one of these vehicles and you get more of them for some reason Have a Great day Ray
thankyou Ray,,another educational but more importantly entertaining upload,
have a good weekend,,👌👍
Persistence pays payoffs.
The shop is looking spiffier and the team is getting things organized.
Glad it worked out Ray. It's asking a lot from the studs when using pinch nuts to press in ball joints. You are literally "Pressing Your Luck!" lol.
Woo Hoo Another successful repair by Ray!!
If you lived in the rust belt you might put never seize on the ball joint before inserting it. And this would assist the next owner of the ball joint when he gets it from the scrap yard.
I put that stuff on almost everything 😂😂😂😂
great work Ray. You have more patience and determination than I do :-)
Ray as ever, your substitution superpower hit a home run changing a ridiculous expensive tool install into a semi-basic tool exercise. Your analytical skills are awesome. Respect from downunder.
I like the can of Glade in the cup holder. Thats funny.
Excellent job Ray ,A mechanic is someone who can always figure things out even though he does not have those special tools great video.
After that destructive dissembly yesterday, I'm glade to see today with a little ingenuity you avoided buying special tools.Have a great day
"Adapt and overcome" would be a great mission statement for your shop Ray. Your ability to create the means and methodology to overcome obstacles daily exhibits a high level of practical reasoning and logic. Troy is fortunate to have you as a mentor.
What ever work, some tools have to be modified to get the job done.
Ray's videos is like a video book that he can go back to as many job's don't go the same way and help let the customer see what he did to fix the problem and when he looks over the vehicle's to access what needs to be replaced, what is more important to fix now and needs attention a few months down the road as he looks out for customers pocket.
That's why he has a great following, a family run business is great.
Hey, I love the sound of Oliver Anthony in the background starting at about 28:00 .
My favorite part of these videos is hearing the music in the background. We listen to the same shit keep kicking ass screw the haters
9:16 My favorite trim tool for so many different things and yes, it works wonderful as well as the bigger kind of pry bar trim tool has worked very well for other things as well that you don’t want to mess up
Ray you always find a way!! Great series!
Hi Ray, I noticed on the video where you removed the ball joints on this van, there was a thin piece of stamped metal sandwiched between the ball joint flange and mount. I'm guessing these were heat shields to protect the ball joint from the heat coming off the brake disc. I see you didn't reinstall these with the new ball joints and I hope it doesn't lead to premature failure of the new ball joints.
I agree with the freezer method oh by the way Ray I love the Oliver Anthony music in the background 👍🤠❤️
Corner break the top edge of balljoint with segmented abrasive wheel and apply high temp copper antiseize.
50% less force needed.
Contrary to popular belief, antiseize will allow pressfit to hold better by eliminating galling of dry assem😊bly.
Thank you again sensai for the lesson with the ball joints. Excellent content.
Barbados.......Alfred, I do mechanics and I love working on suspensions ,you did a great job .
Morning Ray!
Have you ever heard necessity is the mother of invention! You are true mechanic.
Hi Ray, to get the angle of the control arms to level out before tightening the front rubber bush bolts the van wheels not only have to be resting on the floor, the van also has to be wheeled back and forth a little way (to get rid of outward tyre friction on the floor) this will allow the front wheel track to widen as the angle of the control arms flatten out with the weight of the van.
Those kind of bushings are a pain but......
Creat a slight chamfer on the first 1/4 inch of the ball joint body with a flapperwheel (on an angle grinder) .
Polish off the chamfer with fine emery.
Smear assembly grease around all the press fit areas.
Still goes on tight but wont bend flanges or chance wiping out threads. .
I would have used the original bolts that you first tried but a nut at the flange. That way you can hold back on the bolt while tightening up the nut . this assembnbly prevents the chances of tearing up the mounting threads.
I never use a power tool when pressing in ball joints and bushings. A spanner gives a better feel for what is happening as the press fit task is done.
Another episode of a brilliant out-of-the 📦solution. Well done, Ray 👍
Yep he takes the parts out of the box and bam problem solved lol
@@lechatbotte. Well played, sir! Well played! 👍
Thanks Ray you are the man when it comes to custom tools "we don't need no stinking special tools".
The shop walls look very nice.
"I'm only made of, erm, Human" - made me lough out loud - thank you Ray, you brighten my day! 😂
Good job. Thumbs up for the Sturggle Jennings song: 'God we need you now'
Thanks!
Did a Volvo that had the same design, except Volvo uses an adapter you simply hammer on. I used a large socket and hammer. Next time I will order the adapter, its cheap enough. Same deal with order of operations to make everything fit. I found the ball joint wasn't seated completely, tap and tighten until the bolts stay tight. First time I did one of that design but common sense tells you what to do. This Volvo used an aluminum LCA, the ball joint was part of the arm, but the new arm did not come with it, thanks Moog!! The BJ hole was closed end too.
I always put press fit parts in a freezer before installation
I always use the freezer method for press-in parts. It makes pressing a lot easier.
Yep! We used to do a lot of "Heat this, Chill that and assemble before the temps equalize" back when I was building jet engines.
Y calentar el orificio que hace que éste se expanda y abra, facilitando la introducción del cuerpo de la rótula. No olvidar un lubricante, para evitar fricción extra o recalentamientos si el diámetro es pequeño.
Cualquier interpretación, será a vuestro propio riesgo. 😅
a hack too proud to learn your advice, and too dumb to understand physics.
Not always feasible in a shop
Dry Ice generally available in metro areas, possibly even still available at Baskin Robbins. I once made the mistake of going to my sisters for dinner, bringing a quart of ice cream, with a chunk of dry ice in the bag..... put the whole bag in her freezer... by dessert time we had a quart of concrete... two days in freezer before it would yield to a scoop. Memories.@@gimmeaford9454
Thinking out of the box ! Yes sir !!
And we have RAINMAN RAY and OLIVER ANTHONY for the win. Another great entertaining and educational video.
Put the ball joint in the freezer (it will shrink), heat the receiving part until red hot (it will expand), apply.
I appreciate whatever radio channel or playlist you guys are using over there.
Ray, I know mechanic work is not easy. You did a great job improvising with the tools you have, you make it look easy. I really like watching your videos on TH-cam, it's very educational. 👍
A true Systems Modification Engineer.
You use a fair amount of silicone on your spark plug boots, maybe a good idea to use a little grease, ant-seize, etc on your bolts and splines??
god damn ray where's the copper grease on the ball joint?? makes taking it back out way easier next time around
You're impact reminded me, i need to charge my batteries. I'm replacing the bolts on the suspension of my utility trailer with some wet bolts, and my impact won't break the old bolts loose without heating them with a torch first.
Looking good on the left. Looking good on the right. Looking good on the firing line.
If you are ever doing the wheel bearing, strut and ball joint on a Transit, Ford sells a pre-assembled steering knuckle and strut assembly with it all on there already.
I used to use the same method when installing the top ball joints into Mitsubishi Rosa buses. I had a set of 3 bolts that I would use to align the holes, tighten them until they were snug, then swap them out for a thinner bolt that went through the threaded section of the control arm, and put a nut on top. Then I could tighten the crap out of them without risking damage to the threads in the control arm. I did damage the threads quite regularly, on the bolts, but saved a ton of time from not having to remove the control arm. And I could just bin the bolts when done
Next time you have a job like that put the ball joints in the freezer and apply a bit of heat to the knuckle casting - makes it easier to get the ball joints in to seat
Lol Oliver Anthony in the back ground.
Ray is the true Master Mechanic! Great work around getting those new ball joints in! Working on different types of cars, Ray knows how to adapt and tackle the tricky jobs.👍
Just simply using a matching thread pitch on your studs and nuts would have prevented so much friction and wasted effort driving the nuts up to press it in. I get that you didn't mind they got ruined in the process but it just makes the job harder unnecessarily and risks binding the studs in to the knuckle where they snap and need drilling out. You were fortunate here.
I know….buuuut I didn’t have a nut that was exact…send it!! 🤣
@RainmanRaysRepairs Haha, send it n see sometimes pays off I guess. Still enjoyed the vid as usual, all the best.
Wow the second ball joint you did went so much smoother. I really didn't see the flames bend. Although I am a little bit inebriated right now. I think you did a great job. I hated doing press in ball joints.
18:56 Good Ray, bushings that pivot need to be tightened up when the suspension is loaded to prevent binding or pinching of the rubber.
You definitely earned your money on this one, Ray. Nice job!!
That was fun to watch ray ray I definitely enjoyed it 😊😊😊😊
I agree 👍 💯 about making my own special tools and saving money 💰. Another great idea, good work. Love your channel ❤️ 💕. Hello from Pa USA 🇺🇸. Thanks.
There was a spacer between the old ball joint and the knuckle. Now that the new ball joint has already been pressed in, my “expert hindsight”😊 wonders if it needed to be in there.
I noticed that too! 🤔🧐
its a spacer but also a has a shield to protect ball joint rubber
Why have loctite on the screws then?
Nice catch. I’ll have to go back and look at that.👏
I was looking for this comment. It seems like a clear oversight from Ray.
Well good morning Ray 🌄 part 2 on the work van
Don’t know but with the temperature in florida putting those joints in a freezer for a couple of hours may ease the process a lot,,, ?
great method to press in the ball joints! it is bad how the front end is damaged and you have to
adjust mounting parts. great video, can not wait for the next one!
Even if Ray has a freezer at the shop, most of the time he gets the new parts as he is working on the car. Doesn’t have time to wait a few hours for the part to get cold enough to shrink. Ok if you get the part today an won’t work on the car until tomorrow. You still have to remember to put the part in the freezer. LOL😮👍🇺🇸
the old ball joints looked to have shims on them when they were removed - why were no shims installed with the new ball joints.
Hey, cool man Ray your work is doing great..
Hahaha loved that line..”…if not I’d have to of disassembled myself into a corner…”
So much of that front bumper support assembly seems like the engineers forgot that they needed those crash bar supports until they were almost finished and just threw it in there at the end.
They actually are. The transits here in europe do not have those. And since this is a european design, the USA version is probably redesigned for American regulations.
Oddly satisfying to watch it all go together.
I always jack up control arm after I connect to the ball joint so it lines up the bushings makes it very easy
Nicely improvised.👍
Nice Oliver Anthony song in the background. Such a great song. I listened to it like 20 times, lol.
I would put a Torch on Ball Joint Shackle and make it Expand so Ball Joint would Slid in much easier...
excellent job ray,,,really well done!
Good rig on the ball joints. 👍 (couldn't find the finger emoji for Ford) 😉
I love the transit van. All of its model have been excellent work horses. The newer one drive like a fiesta or focus.
Weight on wheels before tightening - pleased ..very good :)
I did my own in my service Van. Put new ball joints in the Freezer for 2 hours and then heated the cast with a torch lightly. Much easier.
I've noticed a certain song in the background of your last few videos. Awesome.
Freeze the ball joint for an hour. The metal will shrink about.002 of an inch. This will make the ball joint easier to fit in to the knuckle. 😊
What if you have no time for the freezer? Lol. Just do it Rays way!!! Jus saying it worked and didn't waste anytime doing it. Actually quicker than that special tool. Setting up that tool would have probably taken longer. Great work Ray! Love the content! 👍🏾👍🏾
Great job dude. My suggestion would be to toss the new ball joint in a freezer for a few hours to shrink it down a bit.
I'm drooling over your power tools..
Another great job ray!!! Thanks!!!
Another great video Ray! Put them in the freezer overnight or set in some dry ice.
Beautiful work! ❤
I'm really digging your new background music.
Props to ya for over come and adapt, if interested in special tool look at otc
Great. Thank you.