These are the Tools and Parts I Recommend: Ford Ball Joint (2004-2008)- amzn.to/1RW2Cq7 Ford Ball Joint (2009-2014)- amzn.to/2GPJdPb Ball Joint C-Frame Press Kit Ford Trucks- amzn.to/1Y7CKwi Ball Joint Separator Tool- www.freedomracing.com/ball-joint-press-stud-remover-c-4150b.html Blue Medium Strength Loctitie- amzn.to/1SKg7wd Wheel Bearing Grease- amzn.to/1pYuSC0 OTC Caliper Hangers- amzn.to/1W2fZv2 Mopar Rust Penetrant- amzn.to/1TskL4d 1/2" Milwaukee Impact- amzn.to/1TskM8p 3/8" Milwaukee Impact- amzn.to/1RFz018 As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Hey my 98 ford xlt has no front abs wires to the hubs anywhere, , so I need new hubs and they only have abs ones ,,, so can I buy them,and just cut the wires off ? And will work as normal?
Thank you for your DIY videos! I appreciate them so much, you have no idea. I've been working on my f150's a 2004 4.6 and just recently bought 2005 5.4 and wouldn't be able to work on them without your help! Watching your video on O2 sensor removed made that job a walk in the park!
Five hours later and I now have new upper control arms and lower ball joints all around on my 2004 Ford F150!! Watched your video a couple times and i have to say it all came apart and went back together just as you showed!! Excellent guidance and narrative, thank you, thank you, thank you!! Couldn't have done it without you!!
It's actually kind of Brady bunch Are you ready to learn the good stuff now like transmissions rear differentials shimming bearings, You wanna learn how to do timing and proper front cover removal, What are learn how to do proper timing and cam follower removal and replacement for your 5.4? Once you get that down then you can brag to everybody.
This was the best video ever. followed it to a T and everything came out great. I'm a 77 year old man who only wanted to help his son and I did. I put lower ball joints on his 2005 F-150 with the help of this Video. Thanks very much FordTechMakuloco very much and GOD bless you and yours.
Out of the mechanics I watch on you tube, you’re the cleanest and keep a clean work area as well as keeping the parts clean as well. You explain everything to the T. I am a FORD guy and really appreciate your videos and the parts that are used on these vehicles. Keep up the great work that you do!!!!🇺🇸
Thank you for doing these videos. Your a master of your craft. My 04 F150 has 160k now. I spent 5 days watching your videos and procuring air tools and parts. Im 60 and never owned air tools. Im not a mechanic but i can turn a wrench. Thanks to you, in 8hrs I installed new rear shocks, front coils and struts, lower ball joints, sway bar links, IWE's and new vacuum selenoid. Your little tips, tork specs and attentivness to details were put into action. I thank you and my truck thanks you. Cleaning my tools off and putting them away today. Wish i would have slapped in new break pads and had a thousand bucks for new meats.
Your the best ! I’m a jet mechanic (navy) years ago . My father had a construction company,cats, trucks trailers. now I rebuild outboard motors . Whenever I replace races or bushing ball joints I stick my new parts into the freezer And that make a huge difference going right from the freezer to the repair . For us backyard mechanic’s this trick is a big help .
Thank you for his thorough video. I just replaced all four of my ball joints on my 2009 F150. There were a few small differences but nothing major. Thank you for taking the time to do this. Definitely helped.
As an auto tech of many years, I really appreciated seeing your professional work! I'm doing this very job on my Dad's truck and checked out this video as I haven't done one before. All apart in less than 30 min, and about to put back together - but seeing it done by a pro helps for all the little tips that are unique to a vehicle, THANK YOU! Perhaps someone mentioned it already, and I could be wrong, but I believe the tie rod end torque spec is 111 lb ft. (In video you said it was same as upper control arm ball joint, 85 lb ft) Again, thank you!
Thank you so much! Got quoted 1500$ for parts and labour for my two front ball joints. Looking forward to saving some cash and seeing how everything works! 10/10
So for anyone starting out with this job make sure you watch a video on how to properly use the ball joint press and make sure you at least have a 1/2 electric impact with a 5 amp battery. I did my lower ball joint but in the same job did my upper control arm and inner/outer tie rods. Took me 6 hours with some figuring but I got it done. I want to do the other side completely but I ran out of time and will have to finish it this weekend. All I got to was the inner/outer tie rod on the driver side which is okay for now because they're still pretty good. I must say that starting out doing this job remember that it's not going to go as easy as it did for this fella in the video. Give yourself some serious time. Around 2 free days to work on it that you plan on doing nothing but giving it attention. Mainly so you can take your time and take breaks when you get exhausted so it doesn't feel like a marathon. Also Bring a good set of vice grips. mainly for ball joints. Everything came off easy for this guy but if I didn't have a vice grip I would've needed a grinder with a cutting wheel to get the outer tie rods and lower ball joint removed. Outside of that kudos to this man for making this tremendously helpful video. My truck is driving like a dream even without the full replacements installed.
I wonder if the Loctite 609 also helps prevent galvanic corrosion between the steel ball joint body and the receiving socket in the aluminum lower control arm. Sure, it also helps it stay in place but a secondary benefit is the prevention of galvanic welding of the two dissimilar metals, especially in areas where salt is used on the roads. I just did a front suspension rebuild on a 2005 F150 4x4 that I just bought with 175k miles that was worked hard by a utility company. Replaced the upper control arms, lower ball joint, tie rod ends, stabilizer bar struts, and new Bilstein 5100 shocks. I've never done any suspension work before aside from changing outboard shocks. ** Your videos gave me the confidence to take on this job. ** Thank you so much for all the great information for working on Ford trucks. You videos are the best on TH-cam for learning more about my truck. Keep up the good work... it's deeply appreciated.
@@flux7061 I replaced the rubber tubing on the IWE vacuum actuation system. Mine is an XL model and has manual actuation of 2WD/4WHi/4WLo transfer case. All models have this vacuum hose that connects the actuation solenoid to the IWE on the spindle hub. Going by memory on this. Could be mistaken.
@@flux7061 I haven't done it yet but I'm going to replace the front and rear diff gear oil and the oil in the transfer case. I can't remember if the TC uses ATF or ??? I also have a slight knock when I go over a speed bump. It comes from the rear. It may be the bushings in the anti-roll bar. That's all I can think of right now.
Hey Maku thanks for all of your videos! I watched many times and wrote step by step your intake mani gasket replacement and it went well for my first time trying anything this in-depth. I also did the valve gaskets while I had the chest open. You gave me the confidence to knock it out and I just pressed in new lower ball joints. Your expertise and clarity is a godsend to hacks like me. Tip for someone else: we struggled to get the first axle nut off because it spun freely. We had to brace with crow bar against studs. Second go we broke the nut free while the tire was still attached and then proceeded according to Maku's plans. Small detail but helped tremendously. First joint took 3-4 hours trying to figure out the process, second joint took about 45 min. Well worth the money saved diy! Thanks again for doing what you do!!! Matt
I just finished replacing the ball joints on my 05 Expedition with the help of this great video. Saved myself about 600 dollars. Only difference with the expedition is that the vacuum lines and ABS wires don't disconnect, but I managed to do the job while keeping the calipers on the rotors. One less thing to have to put back together at the end.
I will say this... all your videos do make repairs a snap! This one gave me the confidence to tackle this seemingly tough repair. Big truck front ends with all that beefy, hard to handle metal, always scared me. After watching this one, I tackled lower ball joints on my F150 and it went just like the video said. Being a retired FoMoCo tradesman I knew I had the skill but not the knowledge. Thanks for making it simple!
Thank you so much for showing us the correct way to do this job. What with your cleanliness and torqueing all the nuts to the proper torque. Not only that but you listed all the tools! Great job. Thanks again!
I followed along with this demo to replace lower ball joints on my driver and passenger side 2004 f150 4x4. Great video! I went ahead and purchased the beefy BJ separator, but you helped me save hundreds in labor and I know I can do this repair in the future. I had a devil of a time separating the knuckle from the lower because I didn't have a small separator like you did and my c-clamp wouldn't fit; PB blaster and a sledge eventually did the trick. All-n-all, well done.
Local shop said I would need new lower ball joints in a year or so. Price quote for that was well over $500! For about the same $$, I bought; -"Yellow and black" 20volt 1/2 inch impact driver with battery & charger, and socket set (metric & standard) -Ball joint driver kit -Lower ball joints -Upper control arms -A couple more large sockets Replaced the parts myself, and paid for a front alignment. Thank you for all your videos!
this is the reason I watch your videos...I just ordered my beefy one for my GMs thank you buddy...mine cost me $ 174.00 but is worth it ...is a time saver
Great video, ball joint went bad and started to creek and clunk. Your video helped my son and I to replace over this three day weekend. Took us a couple hours but all went perfectly. Thanks again!
"Pull it off like you're pulling the nose off of a clown"!!! Haha. Awesome instructions. Both verbally and visually. Thank you. I always reference your videos for my problems. Just did my ball joints today. Thank you.
This was a very informative video. I love it when people show every detail and they break it all down "Barney style" for us. Thanks a bunch for this video!
On cleanliness during a repair. My auto tech teacher in highschool stressed this so I came up with the phrase "grit makes shit" I got a couple days of detention for it but Danny G, agreed. Had me mill a sign out in aluminum in my machining class (without cnc) that said it. Miss that guy. Gave me the confidence to do my own repairs way back when. Fuck i'm acting like the old guys I grew up around and i'm not 40 quite yet. Give it a few days.
Thanks! Doing the lower ball joints this weekend. Shop wanted several hundred bucks but I figured it wasn't that hard. For the best and cheapest rust penetrating oil I save the ATF from a change and mix 50/50 ATF/Acetone in a spray bottle. Works like a boss and is way cheaper
Pro aerospace mechanic background (jet engine overhaul/Aircraft overhaul). While I would have likely completed this job with little info available , YOUR video came in handy in terms of letting me know ahead of time what was involved, cautions and helpful hints which took a lot of the time consuming guess work out of it. Spent 51.00 bucks on an OEM Motorcraft part, some chemicals and grease, and an afternoon of labor. Thanks
That is a kickass tool.. I had a knuckle crack on a 99 ranger and had to get the lower ball joint out and OMG.. I faught with that for days.. I was super broke and was doing it in the parking lot where the knuckle broke it was horrrible.. I would have loved that toole.. Damn.. Thanks for the vid.
This job is pretty much impossible without that ball joint tool. I bought one for a 1987 Dodge Diplomat and I have never regretted spending the money on it, and it was $300 back then, I see it's gotten a little cheaper since then. Good video.
I sure appreciate your instruction videos!! I am just your everyday weekend warrior/garage mechanic that likes to learn how to fix stuff myself and save money (that is how I can justify to my wife/CFO I need to purchase the right tools for the job 😁) I have a 2009 5.4 3V F150 that has 238,289 miles and because of your videos You have saved me a ton of money. To this day (outside of replacing the water pump) I have had zero issues with my engine. you put the fear of god into about cam phaser issues, I change my oil (valvoline 10/30 synthetic blind) between 2 and 3 thousand miles, the oil still almost looks like new between changes. No matter what type of trailer I pull (utility trailer with a bit of weight or 24 foot camp trailer) I get this slipping grinding type of sound from the front end. (The sound is like when you apply brakes of a icy road and the ABS kicks in type of sound) When I take a off ramp from a HWY and you make a turn down a slope and gently apply the brakes (no matter if its left or right turn) it's like the front end is drifting and grinding, even when I am on a flat road and make a quick turn without apply my brakes (pulling a trailer) I get the same sound. I have replaced my shocks with KYB gas shocks, brakes, everything is tight, but I think I need to take a better look at my sway bar ends and possibly ball joints? I live in Oregon so we do not use Salt on our roads, I keep everything clean underneath my truck, none of the rubber on the joints are cracked.
You sir, are an awesome explainer, and have a logic driven mind. As well, you are providing a great service to the shade-tree mechanic in us. The setup on the camera is also very good and much better than most. In pressing the ball joint in place, I probably would have thrown it in the freezer for an hour and heated up the lower control arm, even with just an electric heat gun, easing the installation. Keep up the good work and videos and good luck in your new shop.
Walter Kamora Yes sir. I love his videos. I’m old. I’ve never worked on my own cars. But Brian make it do able. Never as easy for a first timer but still doable just takes me a little longer
Thank you so much just did this yesterday with upper control arms and tie rods. 9 hours total. Pry bar was my friend. First time using a ball joint press. Sent in easy
Awesome !!! You have literally saved me thousands of dollars !!! I wish you had a way of sharing a percentage of my savings with you. Thanks so much sharing your experience and knowledge !!!
nice video. good camera work and perfect lighting. Great commentary without all of the "wrench head" talk that everyone seems to add. You should be a trainer at Lincoln tech.
Can not thank you enough man for all the videos you put out about this wonderful truck.. alot of dread around the 5.4 and all its glory. But with you helping us out, makes life so much easier sir!! thank you!
This video is thorough and professional. Your confidence and know-how really shows. Thank you for taking the time to make the video and posting the materials and the parts used.
I did passenger side first, and drivers side axle is much more difficult, it seems to have much less play in it. This video saved me close to 1200 bucks, thanks so much!
Makuloco - I can't THANK YOU enough for your videos. Your videos have helped me tremendously on several instances. Thanks to you sharing your expertise, I've completed one side of an upper control arm and lower ball joint on my 2003 Ford Expedition and now working on the other side. Taking a quick break and wanted to say that I couldn't have done it without the tips that you shared. Just wanted to say again...MANY THANKS!!!
That Mopar penetrating oil never did break that rotor free. Good thing it didn't fall off when you picked up the assembly. Thumbs up for a very thorough and well made video. Thanks.
I love that you're using a torque wrench On the ball joint and tie rod locking nuts. I see too many of these online mechanics just use an impact gun Which I have found causes a binding problem on the ball joints And can damage The control arm.. Thank you very much nice work
FordTechMakuloco Just wondering if you could watch my one and only video and give your thoughts on if it normal or wear of a the shaft in my EPAS steering rack. I’ve looked everywhere and can’t find any info on the internal mechanics of it! I would be very appreciative.
One of the best auto repair videos I’ve ever seen. Not a hack move in it. What about cleaning the back side of the rotor? Never did get that sucker off. That’s the way it goes.
Thank for this man. I was struggling with the lower ball koontz for awhile now. I didnt realize you have to loosin the ball joint by hitting it with a sludge
i have enjoyed watching the entire video and subscribed to the channel even though i do not have a Ford truck and this repair is beyond my skill level. Excellent video. Love the camera angle, lighting and clear narratives. Thank you
Another awesome video. Just finished my iwe replacement and found a tie rod end has to be replaced. Your saving me big bucks. Thanks, keep doing what your doing.
Had my wheel come off as I was turning around and I jumped out to see the truck sitting on its tire...ball joint snapped. Got my work cut out for me on Monday , but I'll be using your vid step by step..I'll watch it a couple of times to get comfortable then hit it. Thanks ..feel confident after watching this
Great Video Brian. This is another one of your Best videos. You made it look simple. Your 100% right - having the right tools for the job makes a world of difference. I think some auto parts stores actually let you borrow specialty tools like that ball joint kit among other kits. You have to put a certain amount down or have it pre-charged to your credit card but that's so you'll return it and if you don't well they finish running your card for a new one. Works best when you don't have need of one but for a couple times in a lifetime. Great Video Bruddah!
its better to just purchase the tool. i got mine from northern tool for $100 and even if i only used it a few times, the payoff is way better than the cost to rent one as needed. plus the added bonus of having a multifunctional tool kit on hand is priceless if u work on your own vehicles.
@@A-mechanics-review-4U if you're not wealthy it's best to not get the Milwaukee impact guns for sure! $545 for the home user who does occasional work on their car is just too much. I'm looking at cheaper options on Amazon and Harbor Freight.
I use to be an Ambulance mechanic's apprentice, you remind me of my teacher. Thank you for showing us the easy way. I appreciate the detail you put into your video's. one thing I will say check out the easy way to remove a ford brake rotor using two bolts and a few nuts on utube, bigtime time saver!!!
Protect those knees even if they feel good. I learned the hard way. Ruptured the bursa, no pain, just swelled like a grapefruit and took months to cure. Now have a floating piece in my knew. I know it's a pain in the butt to constantly be putting something down to kneel on but trust me. We need you around for our Fords. I'm about to do this job. Take care
Thank you for the training video - you are the best , very detailed with tips and pit falls. I am saving hundreds of dollars in labor cost. I have taken your recommendation and installed the Bilstein struts and shocks on my F150 5.4 3V Lariat. My outer tie rods were very loose, shocks had no rebound, and ball joint is next while every thing is off.
Great content, like the way you commentate steps clearly and simply. Looks like your truck's seen better days, I mean the panels have a lot of scuff marks and dents 😆 Thanks once again for your time in explaining this procedure. James. Australia 🇦🇺
Watched your video, bought the recommenced tools and changed out upper control arms and lower ball joints. My truck is a 2014 F-150 Supercrew 4x4 so it was a little different from yours but everything went well. Thanks for the great video it was a great help.
I think the green Loctite is to prevent the electrolysis (rusting together) of the two different metals; the steel of the ball joint and the aluminum of the control arm. It acts as a barrier to keep the two metals from chemically bonding and 'freezing together'.
Thanks for posting all these videos! I have a 2011 Ford E-150, 50th anniversary edition . I noticed a popping noise on my LH side at 56k miles. I replaced both lower ball joints which I purchased through Ford, as NAPA, AZ, Oreilly and Speedway A.P. said dealer item only. Figures! I suppose I'll be replacing them again at around 100k. On my 96 E- 150, the lower ball joints lasted to just over 60k miles. Didn't have a problem with my 79 E-150, with the older version of the I beam design.
I adore your job. This seems to be the most detailed front wheel assembly video. Best ever! Thank you for sharing your kindly explanation and great job.
awesome video, thankyou! Other similar ones dont explain the importance of engaging the IWE to ensure it meshes and to constantly check by spinning. Torque values also explained very well!!
good job,idbeen thinking about doing my f150 ball joints for awhile and after watching this vid i feel more confident .thanks and keep up the good work.
Appreciate the detailed step by step video! changed out my lower ball joints in my 2013 F150 Ford Raptor. While in there I replaced the IWE's and upper control arms as well. I used a similar ball joint press Kit I ordered from Summit Racing Equipment. Thanks again!
First off, thanks for the great vids. Amazingly helpful. One note that threw me though. Hammering on seated lower joint with the the jack holding the lower. Every hit made the jack move, and if the vehicle was less supported than he probably has his... well , the press is the way to go.
You made it look so easy. I literally broke extensions trying to replace the ball joint. The driver side went in crooked and there was tons of material that got pushed out. Then again it wasn’t an OEM part. Since then I’ve replaced the whole control arm which went so much faster
Well as a aircraft mechanic I would say that installation compound is required because of the aluminum knuckle coming in contact with the steel ball joint. Dissimilar metals cause corrosion in the aluminum. Boeing manuals call out treating the aluminum with alodine and corrosion preventative primers to separate the different metals from contacting each other . Aluminum corrosion can get pretty gruesome and requires a lot of rework.
I did my '04 lower without removing anything other than the tire !! And , I'm a tree guy , not a mechanic !! Dropped upper joint though . I cut the old lower joint though . Love your videos !
You are the man, I use to be scared to work on my 2004 f150 till i used your videos. Now on the lower ball joint when hammering it out.....no worries in "mushrooming" the top and making it hard to press out???? And where can I find the upper control arm replacement video??? THANKS BROTHER!!!
Nice video. I've been trying the sledge and air hammer to separate lower ball joint from knuckle unsuccessfully. I'm going to just remove the ball joint from the knuckle with the removal tool like you suggested next.
These are the Tools and Parts I Recommend:
Ford Ball Joint (2004-2008)-
amzn.to/1RW2Cq7
Ford Ball Joint (2009-2014)-
amzn.to/2GPJdPb
Ball Joint C-Frame Press Kit Ford Trucks-
amzn.to/1Y7CKwi
Ball Joint Separator Tool-
www.freedomracing.com/ball-joint-press-stud-remover-c-4150b.html
Blue Medium Strength Loctitie-
amzn.to/1SKg7wd
Wheel Bearing Grease-
amzn.to/1pYuSC0
OTC Caliper Hangers-
amzn.to/1W2fZv2
Mopar Rust Penetrant-
amzn.to/1TskL4d
1/2" Milwaukee Impact-
amzn.to/1TskM8p
3/8" Milwaukee Impact-
amzn.to/1RFz018
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Brother! You are awesome, and i must say you made it as easy as 123
Hey my 98 ford xlt has no front abs wires to the hubs anywhere, , so I need new hubs and they only have abs ones ,,, so can I buy them,and just cut the wires off ? And will work as normal?
Thank you for your DIY videos! I appreciate them so much, you have no idea. I've been working on my f150's a 2004 4.6 and just recently bought 2005 5.4 and wouldn't be able to work on them without your help! Watching your video on O2 sensor removed made that job a walk in the park!
3e
22
Five hours later and I now have new upper control arms and lower ball joints all around on my 2004 Ford F150!! Watched your video a couple times and i have to say it all came apart and went back together just as you showed!! Excellent guidance and narrative, thank you, thank you, thank you!! Couldn't have done it without you!!
I agree completely explained everything properly.....
I’m on Day 2 lol
It's actually kind of Brady bunch
Are you ready to learn the good stuff now like transmissions rear differentials shimming bearings,
You wanna learn how to do timing and proper front cover removal, What are learn how to do proper timing and cam follower removal and replacement for your 5.4?
Once you get that down then you can brag to everybody.
What brand of ball joint press did you use?
I'm not sure if you have an O'Reilly's but you can rent one from them for free
This was the best video ever. followed it to a T and everything came out great. I'm a 77 year old man who only wanted to help his son and I did. I put lower ball joints on his 2005 F-150 with the help of this Video. Thanks very much FordTechMakuloco very much and GOD bless you and yours.
Out of the mechanics I watch on you tube, you’re the cleanest and keep a clean work area as well as keeping the parts clean as well. You explain everything to the T. I am a FORD guy and really appreciate your videos and the parts that are used on these vehicles. Keep up the great work that you do!!!!🇺🇸
Thank you for doing these videos. Your a master of your craft. My 04 F150 has 160k now. I spent 5 days watching your videos and procuring air tools and parts. Im 60 and never owned air tools. Im not a mechanic but i can turn a wrench. Thanks to you, in 8hrs I installed new rear shocks, front coils and struts, lower ball joints, sway bar links, IWE's and new vacuum selenoid.
Your little tips, tork specs and attentivness to details were put into action. I thank you and my truck thanks you. Cleaning my tools off and putting them away today. Wish i would have slapped in new break pads and had a thousand bucks for new meats.
Your the best ! I’m a jet mechanic (navy) years ago . My father had a construction company,cats, trucks trailers. now I rebuild outboard motors . Whenever I replace races or bushing ball joints I stick my new parts into the freezer And that make a huge difference going right from the freezer to the repair . For us backyard mechanic’s this trick is a big help .
Thank you for his thorough video. I just replaced all four of my ball joints on my 2009 F150. There were a few small differences but nothing major. Thank you for taking the time to do this. Definitely helped.
Thank you for producing this video. It was most helpful, saved $560 in labour.
As an auto tech of many years, I really appreciated seeing your professional work!
I'm doing this very job on my Dad's truck and checked out this video as I haven't done one before.
All apart in less than 30 min, and about to put back together - but seeing it done by a pro helps for all the little tips that are unique to a vehicle, THANK YOU!
Perhaps someone mentioned it already, and I could be wrong, but I believe the tie rod end torque spec is 111 lb ft. (In video you said it was same as upper control arm ball joint, 85 lb ft)
Again, thank you!
Thank you so much! Got quoted 1500$ for parts and labour for my two front ball joints. Looking forward to saving some cash and seeing how everything works! 10/10
So for anyone starting out with this job make sure you watch a video on how to properly use the ball joint press and make sure you at least have a 1/2 electric impact with a 5 amp battery. I did my lower ball joint but in the same job did my upper control arm and inner/outer tie rods. Took me 6 hours with some figuring but I got it done. I want to do the other side completely but I ran out of time and will have to finish it this weekend. All I got to was the inner/outer tie rod on the driver side which is okay for now because they're still pretty good. I must say that starting out doing this job remember that it's not going to go as easy as it did for this fella in the video. Give yourself some serious time. Around 2 free days to work on it that you plan on doing nothing but giving it attention. Mainly so you can take your time and take breaks when you get exhausted so it doesn't feel like a marathon. Also Bring a good set of vice grips. mainly for ball joints. Everything came off easy for this guy but if I didn't have a vice grip I would've needed a grinder with a cutting wheel to get the outer tie rods and lower ball joint removed. Outside of that kudos to this man for making this tremendously helpful video. My truck is driving like a dream even without the full replacements installed.
I wonder if the Loctite 609 also helps prevent galvanic corrosion between the steel ball joint body and the receiving socket in the aluminum lower control arm. Sure, it also helps it stay in place but a secondary benefit is the prevention of galvanic welding of the two dissimilar metals, especially in areas where salt is used on the roads.
I just did a front suspension rebuild on a 2005 F150 4x4 that I just bought with 175k miles that was worked hard by a utility company. Replaced the upper control arms, lower ball joint, tie rod ends, stabilizer bar struts, and new Bilstein 5100 shocks. I've never done any suspension work before aside from changing outboard shocks. ** Your videos gave me the confidence to take on this job. ** Thank you so much for all the great information for working on Ford trucks. You videos are the best on TH-cam for learning more about my truck. Keep up the good work... it's deeply appreciated.
You would be right about the galvanic corrosion. Aviation structural tech.
I’m about halfway through that list on my 2014 with 170k miles anything else you had to replace
@@flux7061
I replaced the rubber tubing on the IWE vacuum actuation system. Mine is an XL model and has manual actuation of 2WD/4WHi/4WLo transfer case. All models have this vacuum hose that connects the actuation solenoid to the IWE on the spindle hub. Going by memory on this. Could be mistaken.
@@marscruz those I actually replaced when it had still been my dads truck thankfully
@@flux7061
I haven't done it yet but I'm going to replace the front and rear diff gear oil and the oil in the transfer case. I can't remember if the TC uses ATF or ??? I also have a slight knock when I go over a speed bump. It comes from the rear. It may be the bushings in the anti-roll bar. That's all I can think of right now.
Hey Maku thanks for all of your videos! I watched many times and wrote step by step your intake mani gasket replacement and it went well for my first time trying anything this in-depth. I also did the valve gaskets while I had the chest open. You gave me the confidence to knock it out and I just pressed in new lower ball joints. Your expertise and clarity is a godsend to hacks like me.
Tip for someone else: we struggled to get the first axle nut off because it spun freely. We had to brace with crow bar against studs. Second go we broke the nut free while the tire was still attached and then proceeded according to Maku's plans. Small detail but helped tremendously. First joint took 3-4 hours trying to figure out the process, second joint took about 45 min. Well worth the money saved diy! Thanks again for doing what you do!!!
Matt
I just finished replacing the ball joints on my 05 Expedition with the help of this great video. Saved myself about 600 dollars. Only difference with the expedition is that the vacuum lines and ABS wires don't disconnect, but I managed to do the job while keeping the calipers on the rotors. One less thing to have to put back together at the end.
I will say this... all your videos do make repairs a snap! This one gave me the confidence to tackle this seemingly tough repair. Big truck front ends with all that beefy, hard to handle metal, always scared me. After watching this one, I tackled lower ball joints on my F150 and it went just like the video said. Being a retired FoMoCo tradesman I knew I had the skill but not the knowledge. Thanks for making it simple!
Thank you so much for showing us the correct way to do this job. What with your cleanliness and torqueing all the nuts to the proper torque. Not only that but you listed all the tools! Great job. Thanks again!
Such a professional. Wish there was someone like you for every brand of vehicle. I guess some concepts are the same. Thank you
I followed along with this demo to replace lower ball joints on my driver and passenger side 2004 f150 4x4. Great video! I went ahead and purchased the beefy BJ separator, but you helped me save hundreds in labor and I know I can do this repair in the future. I had a devil of a time separating the knuckle from the lower because I didn't have a small separator like you did and my c-clamp wouldn't fit; PB blaster and a sledge eventually did the trick. All-n-all, well done.
Nice!
Man,you are better than any mechanic I've known,wished I could get my Ford to your shop,I'd sleep better knowing it's done correctly.awesome job bro
Wish i knew a mechanic like you, love how you are dedicated and takes no shortcuts. Keep the videos coming!
Local shop said I would need new lower ball joints in a year or so. Price quote for that was well over $500!
For about the same $$, I bought;
-"Yellow and black" 20volt 1/2 inch impact driver with battery & charger, and socket set (metric & standard)
-Ball joint driver kit
-Lower ball joints
-Upper control arms
-A couple more large sockets
Replaced the parts myself, and paid for a front alignment.
Thank you for all your videos!
The best video technical walk through, even if it does not apply to your car. Thanks a million!
this is the reason I watch your videos...I just ordered my beefy one for my GMs thank you buddy...mine cost me $ 174.00 but is worth it ...is a time saver
Great video, ball joint went bad and started to creek and clunk. Your video helped my son and I to replace over this three day weekend. Took us a couple hours but all went perfectly. Thanks again!
"Pull it off like you're pulling the nose off of a clown"!!! Haha. Awesome instructions. Both verbally and visually. Thank you. I always reference your videos for my problems. Just did my ball joints today. Thank you.
Decent video I was a tech for 35 years. I loved ford trucks because they eat ball joints.I made so much money doing them.
This was a very informative video. I love it when people show every detail and they break it all down "Barney style" for us. Thanks a bunch for this video!
Lol Let me break it down for you "Barney style" you knucklehead.
On cleanliness during a repair. My auto tech teacher in highschool stressed this so I came up with the phrase "grit makes shit" I got a couple days of detention for it but Danny G, agreed. Had me mill a sign out in aluminum in my machining class (without cnc) that said it. Miss that guy. Gave me the confidence to do my own repairs way back when. Fuck i'm acting like the old guys I grew up around and i'm not 40 quite yet. Give it a few days.
you're doin ok bud
Thanks! Doing the lower ball joints this weekend. Shop wanted several hundred bucks but I figured it wasn't that hard. For the best and cheapest rust penetrating oil I save the ATF from a change and mix 50/50 ATF/Acetone in a spray bottle. Works like a boss and is way cheaper
Pro aerospace mechanic background (jet engine overhaul/Aircraft overhaul). While I would have likely completed this job with little info available , YOUR video came in handy in terms of letting me know ahead of time what was involved, cautions and helpful hints which took a lot of the time consuming guess work out of it. Spent 51.00 bucks on an OEM Motorcraft part, some chemicals and grease, and an afternoon of labor. Thanks
Nice!
That is a kickass tool.. I had a knuckle crack on a 99 ranger and had to get the lower ball joint out and OMG.. I faught with that for days.. I was super broke and was doing it in the parking lot where the knuckle broke it was horrrible.. I would have loved that toole.. Damn.. Thanks for the vid.
This job is pretty much impossible without that ball joint tool. I bought one for a 1987 Dodge Diplomat and I have never regretted spending the money on it, and it was $300 back then, I see it's gotten a little cheaper since then. Good video.
I sure appreciate your instruction videos!! I am just your everyday weekend warrior/garage mechanic that likes to learn how to fix stuff myself and save money (that is how I can justify to my wife/CFO I need to purchase the right tools for the job 😁) I have a 2009 5.4 3V F150 that has 238,289 miles and because of your videos You have saved me a ton of money. To this day (outside of replacing the water pump) I have had zero issues with my engine. you put the fear of god into about cam phaser issues, I change my oil (valvoline 10/30 synthetic blind) between 2 and 3 thousand miles, the oil still almost looks like new between changes.
No matter what type of trailer I pull (utility trailer with a bit of weight or 24 foot camp trailer) I get this slipping grinding type of sound from the front end. (The sound is like when you apply brakes of a icy road and the ABS kicks in type of sound) When I take a off ramp from a HWY and you make a turn down a slope and gently apply the brakes (no matter if its left or right turn) it's like the front end is drifting and grinding, even when I am on a flat road and make a quick turn without apply my brakes (pulling a trailer) I get the same sound. I have replaced my shocks with KYB gas shocks, brakes, everything is tight, but I think I need to take a better look at my sway bar ends and possibly ball joints? I live in Oregon so we do not use Salt on our roads, I keep everything clean underneath my truck, none of the rubber on the joints are cracked.
You sir, are an awesome explainer, and have a logic driven mind. As well, you are providing a great service to the shade-tree mechanic in us. The setup on the camera is also very good and much better than most. In pressing the ball joint in place, I probably would have thrown it in the freezer for an hour and heated up the lower control arm, even with just an electric heat gun, easing the installation. Keep up the good work and videos and good luck in your new shop.
I referenced this video a few times today, I really appreciate you taking the time to explain and clearly show the process involved. thanks.
Hell yes I'm a Chrysler tech and that Mopar rust Penetrant is amazing!!
Thanks, I was wondering if I should get some of that because it looks like it works well, but I'm always ever the skeptic!
Big thanks, was not looking forward to this job. However with my laptop following along with your video, got the job done. Thanks again!
Walter Kamora
Yes sir. I love his videos. I’m old. I’ve never worked on my own cars. But Brian make it do able. Never as easy for a first timer but still doable just takes me a little longer
Excellent video. One of the best auto repair videos I have seen!
Thank you so much just did this yesterday with upper control arms and tie rods. 9 hours total. Pry bar was my friend. First time using a ball joint press. Sent in easy
Sent you $10 on paypal to show appreciation
Awesome !!! You have literally saved me thousands of dollars !!! I wish you had a way of sharing a percentage of my savings with you. Thanks so much sharing your experience and knowledge !!!
You can. PayPal. Or patreon.
nice video. good camera work and perfect lighting. Great commentary without all of the "wrench head" talk that everyone seems to add. You should be a trainer at Lincoln tech.
Can not thank you enough man for all the videos you put out about this wonderful truck.. alot of dread around the 5.4 and all its glory. But with you helping us out, makes life so much easier sir!! thank you!
This video is thorough and professional. Your confidence and know-how really shows. Thank you for taking the time to make the video and posting the materials and the parts used.
Just did both lower ball joints because of your video. You rock bro!! Thank you!!!!!!!!
Well done sir. Safe, clean, concise, and complete. Will help many a DIYer to save $$$. Thanks for posting.
I did passenger side first, and drivers side axle is much more difficult, it seems to have much less play in it. This video saved me close to 1200 bucks, thanks so much!
Makuloco - I can't THANK YOU enough for your videos. Your videos have helped me tremendously on several instances. Thanks to you sharing your expertise, I've completed one side of an upper control arm and lower ball joint on my 2003 Ford Expedition and now working on the other side. Taking a quick break and wanted to say that I couldn't have done it without the tips that you shared. Just wanted to say again...MANY THANKS!!!
+Gene McLeod Nice!
That Mopar penetrating oil never did break that rotor free. Good thing it didn't fall off when you picked up the assembly. Thumbs up for a very thorough and well made video. Thanks.
I love that you're using a torque wrench On the ball joint and tie rod locking nuts. I see too many of these online mechanics just use an impact gun Which I have found causes a binding problem on the ball joints And can damage The control arm.. Thank you very much nice work
Probably the most helpful video I've watched in a very long while.
Thank you
Thanks!!
FordTechMakuloco Just wondering if you could watch my one and only video and give your thoughts on if it normal or wear of a the shaft in my EPAS steering rack. I’ve looked everywhere and can’t find any info on the internal mechanics of it! I would be very appreciative.
Very helpful. This helped me do it myself and save 1300 bucks.Thanks
One of the best auto repair videos I’ve ever seen. Not a hack move in it. What about cleaning the back side of the rotor? Never did get that sucker off. That’s the way it goes.
One of your best videos. Could be used to learn about several parts of the suspension, braking, etc.
Wow, what a job. I'm exhausted just watching. Hats off to all you good mechanics.
An air hammer is my weapon of choice when dealing with stuck brake rotors. Great video!
One of the best technicians on TH-cam :-)
You are such a badass bro, love all your vids! 20 year mech myself!
Thank for this man. I was struggling with the lower ball koontz for awhile now. I didnt realize you have to loosin the ball joint by hitting it with a sludge
i have enjoyed watching the entire video and subscribed to the channel even though i do not have a Ford truck and this repair is beyond my skill level. Excellent video. Love the camera angle, lighting and clear narratives. Thank you
This is definitely the channel to subscribe to if have a Ford/Lincoln product.
Another awesome video. Just finished my iwe replacement and found a tie rod end has to be replaced. Your saving me big bucks. Thanks, keep doing what your doing.
Had my wheel come off as I was turning around and I jumped out to see the truck sitting on its tire...ball joint snapped. Got my work cut out for me on Monday , but I'll be using your vid step by step..I'll watch it a couple of times to get comfortable then hit it. Thanks ..feel confident after watching this
Holy crap! How'd your job go?
You are a godsend! I can't thank you enough for all the help. I couldn't have done it without you.
Great Video Brian. This is another one of your Best videos. You made it look simple. Your 100% right - having the right tools for the job makes a world of difference. I think some auto parts stores actually let you borrow specialty tools like that ball joint kit among other kits. You have to put a certain amount down or have it pre-charged to your credit card but that's so you'll return it and if you don't well they finish running your card for a new one. Works best when you don't have need of one but for a couple times in a lifetime. Great Video Bruddah!
its better to just purchase the tool. i got mine from northern tool for $100 and even if i only used it a few times, the payoff is way better than the cost to rent one as needed. plus the added bonus of having a multifunctional tool kit on hand is priceless if u work on your own vehicles.
KMo its free to rent
KMo It’s better to purchase a tool if you’re wealthy is what you meant to type
@@A-mechanics-review-4U if you're not wealthy it's best to not get the Milwaukee impact guns for sure! $545 for the home user who does occasional work on their car is just too much. I'm looking at cheaper options on Amazon and Harbor Freight.
Thank you! For talking about cleaning. Most Mechanics I see would just slap it back together.
I use to be an Ambulance mechanic's apprentice, you remind me of my teacher. Thank you for showing us the easy way. I appreciate the detail you put into your video's. one thing I will say check out the easy way to remove a ford brake rotor using two bolts and a few nuts on utube, bigtime time saver!!!
Link please?
Protect those knees even if they feel good. I learned the hard way. Ruptured the bursa, no pain, just swelled like a grapefruit and took months to cure. Now have a floating piece in my knew. I know it's a pain in the butt to constantly be putting something down to kneel on but trust me. We need you around for our Fords. I'm about to do this job. Take care
no bad things intended there! Both of you help a lot of people! Thanks for all the effort and time to help us out!
Thank you for the training video - you are the best , very detailed with tips and pit falls. I am saving hundreds of dollars in labor cost. I have taken your recommendation and installed the Bilstein struts and shocks on my F150 5.4 3V Lariat. My outer tie rods were very loose, shocks had no rebound, and ball joint is next while every thing is off.
Great content, like the way you commentate steps clearly and simply.
Looks like your truck's seen better days, I mean the panels have a lot of scuff marks and dents 😆
Thanks once again for your time in explaining this procedure.
James.
Australia 🇦🇺
Thanks for the great video! You are a great mechanic but also have a really nice way of communicating with the audience!
Keep making these videos man! Direct, to the point instructions! Couldn’t be any better.
Watched your video, bought the recommenced tools and changed out upper control arms and lower ball joints. My truck is a 2014 F-150 Supercrew 4x4 so it was a little different from yours but everything went well. Thanks for the great video it was a great help.
I think the green Loctite is to prevent the electrolysis (rusting together) of the two different metals; the steel of the ball joint and the aluminum of the control arm. It acts as a barrier to keep the two metals from chemically bonding and 'freezing together'.
Thanks for posting all these videos! I have a 2011 Ford E-150, 50th anniversary edition . I noticed a popping noise on my LH side at 56k miles. I replaced both lower ball joints which I purchased through Ford, as NAPA, AZ, Oreilly and Speedway A.P. said dealer item only. Figures!
I suppose I'll be replacing them again at around 100k. On my 96 E- 150, the lower ball joints lasted to just over 60k miles. Didn't have a problem with my 79 E-150, with the older version of the I beam
design.
I adore your job. This seems to be the most detailed front wheel assembly video. Best ever! Thank you for sharing your kindly explanation and great job.
awesome job man. thank you for taking your time and making a full detailed video for us
man love your videos ther are so clear and proffessional and best part i learn so much from you thancks
awesome video, thankyou! Other similar ones dont explain the importance of engaging the IWE to ensure it meshes and to constantly check by spinning. Torque values also explained very well!!
good job,idbeen thinking about doing my f150 ball joints for awhile and after watching this vid i feel more confident .thanks and keep up the good work.
Appreciate the detailed step by step video! changed out my lower ball joints in my 2013 F150 Ford Raptor. While in there I replaced the IWE's and upper control arms as well. I used a similar ball joint press Kit I ordered from Summit Racing Equipment.
Thanks again!
Absolutely great video with the specs , tools and how to use them. Thank you !!!!
First off, thanks for the great vids. Amazingly helpful. One note that threw me though. Hammering on seated lower joint with the the jack holding the lower. Every hit made the jack move, and if the vehicle was less supported than he probably has his... well , the press is the way to go.
i bought the hole lower control arm with ball joint allready installed wasnt that much more money and saved hell lot work
Today I replaced the lower ball joints on my 2005 Ford F150. Thank you for this video, I couldn't have done it without you.
You made it look so easy. I literally broke extensions trying to replace the ball joint. The driver side went in crooked and there was tons of material that got pushed out. Then again it wasn’t an OEM part. Since then I’ve replaced the whole control arm which went so much faster
Watching your video while working. Almost ready to press out the old one. Need to rent the tool. Thanks
Hey man nice Journey playing in the background!!! I love the 80’s.. great work !!!
Another great how to video . Especially the cleaning and lubrication of key parts .
This guy is good. Everyone problem I have had with my Ford F150, this guy has a video for it. I wish he had videos on a 1998 ford mustang GT.
Excellent video you always take the time to show step by step...appreciate your work and your time you put in your videos.
you are a solid pro.
your videos are a joy to watch.
thank you.
Your videos have gotten me thru some tight spots on my 07 f150 lariat thank u
Well as a aircraft mechanic I would say that installation compound is required because of the aluminum knuckle coming in contact with the steel ball joint. Dissimilar metals cause corrosion in the aluminum. Boeing manuals call out treating the aluminum with alodine and corrosion preventative primers to separate the different metals from contacting each other . Aluminum corrosion can get pretty gruesome and requires a lot of rework.
Best job instructional on youtube.
I did my '04 lower without removing anything other than the tire !! And , I'm a tree guy , not a mechanic !! Dropped upper joint though . I cut the old lower joint though . Love your videos !
You are the man, I use to be scared to work on my 2004 f150 till i used your videos. Now on the lower ball joint when hammering it out.....no worries in "mushrooming" the top and making it hard to press out???? And where can I find the upper control arm replacement video??? THANKS BROTHER!!!
I just did both of my lower ball joints. Awesomeness.
Nice video. I've been trying the sledge and air hammer to separate lower ball joint from knuckle unsuccessfully. I'm going to just remove the ball joint from the knuckle with the removal tool like you suggested next.
Thanks for the great video and clear explanation of work. Really helps keeping my '06 F150 on the road.