Brakes hung Backwards-Mechanic Trick! Honda Civic 1.3 IMA CVT
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
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Mmm. Coffee, Rays video, and quiet 4am house. Good morning!
That "rust" looked like copper anti-sneeze. Use it all the time up here in the rust belt!
Every time a brake clean can rings, an angel gets its wings!
Mechanic angel
Every time a brake clean sputters
Rainman says ANOTHER!
It's a wonderful life! 😁
Another! *Throws Can* 😝
😂
As a former tech I was surprised that there was no grease applied to the moving surfaces on the shoes and pads. Other than that everything was spot on. It is amazing how many techs don't know about burning in the new pads and shoes.
Another thing I noticed was that when he used the tool to retract the caliper piston, he forced the old brake fluid back into the system. I usually open the bleed screw to flush out all of that old, stagnet break fluid in the cylinder. Lots of time that stagnet break fluid within the cylinder is pretty cruddy.
@@FlyMIfYouGotM the less you touch the bleed bolts, the less chance of snapping one off and having to replace the caliper.
First of all, it's not grease, but an anti-seize compound. Secondly, it still hardens and causes seizing of the pads, once brake dust gets onto the compound and all that shit hardens into what might as well be cement, essentially. To prevent that, some brake systems come with thin metal gliding strips (like shown in this video). They are the "grease", hence no "greasing" required. Cheers from Germany.
P.S.: I'm with ctrlaltdebug on that one. In countries with plenty of corrosion, we prefer to not touch critical fragile components unnecessarily.
It'll just be caked in shit immediately and made useless anyway. I don't use any either.
@@ctrlaltdebug On the other hand if you loosen them every time you change pads, they will take longer before they seize. If they do snap off, you can in any case bleed the air out by loosening the flexible hose connection.
Hello Ray + gang from Australia🙃
It's nice to see what the dealer said what needed replacing is what really needed replacing😉
My mother in law takes her car to the Honda dealer and they have never recommended anything that didnt actually need to be addressed!
@@petersmart1999 Lucky you, the Honda dealer I've gone to would rip you off six ways to Sunday if you let them.
@@watershed44 Oh,I believe it! A friend took his Honda Pilot in because the A/C wasnt working! They quoted him $1600 for a new compressor! So I installed a new relay and she worked like a champ! $7
@@petersmart1999 Yes, if you find a "dealership" that ISN'T a "$tealership" you've found the needle in a haystack! They are that rare, at least in the USA.
I prefer loading the pads first, allows me to check the pads for proper movement in the slide. A lot of the Autozone pads need hand filing to get them to slide properly.
Lol I never knew until recently that you have to make sure the pads can move easily. My father was a mechanic his whole life and probably taught me as a teenager when I wasn't listening. But now I need to go check my brakes on my rusted out 1998 impreza.
Yeah you're right, I get that alot, I grind em a bit here and there on the wheel, lube em up and good to go after driving it, no wobbling, pulsating. Sometimes a pain in the ass but jobs have to leave perfect. Gotta have happy customers so they refer family and friends.
@@rick6z5👍And come back alive. 😂
Good morning Ray. Great job on the brakes. I like the Caliper of your work 😀😅😆.
After cleaning the rear brakes, wouldn't be advisable to re-lube the shoe to backing plate pads?
I use copper slip. Surprised he didn’t
Those rotor-screws come off nicely with a screwdriver when you tighten some nuts on the studs, thus taking away the pressure from the screws.
Thanks. I'll try that! ( I put anti and save the next guy some trouble.)
I just use a manual impact driver (the type you hit with a hammer) works great on door hinges and shackles too. but I'm not a pro.
I think I know how I'm going to invest in the stock market!
BRAKE CLEANER ❤😮
24:30 If you use a C-Clamp, USE THE OLD PAD between the C Clamp and the piston. The piston you save can mean a lot of money.
I have used the old pad and channel locks (my C-clamp had rusted solid from being stored in a damp place) and after the Popeye cramps passed, it was not a bad result.
This, or use a capital C clamp.
If I'm turning or replacing the rotors, I push the piston back with a screwdriver before I take the caliper off. If that isn't feasible I'll use large channel lock pliers and the old brake pad to push it back in.
The other way is just compress the caliper while it's still on the car. Just have one end pressing on the outer pad and the other end on the piston housing. That way you can never press in unevenly because the slider pins won't allow you.
Ray I always see you cleaning drumb brakes , with just one can of brake clean but never see you apply any grease after cleanng
Or grease brake pad slides
@@kaylenedowdle1310 Yep, if you're paying for a real "brake service" aren't you paying for him to make sure friction points are greased too?
Looks like Floridians skip that step.
If ray cut down on the brake cleaner the supplier would not be able to pay for his boat
The supplier would have to downsize to a boat that is 40 feet shorter.
Ray I think you might have talked about the slide pin grease you use but Im not wanna hunt though all your videos to see if I can see the name of it. what's it called and how makes it??? And don't you clean out the old grease from the female side? I tend to find there is a lot of gunk built up in there. I tend to use wd40 and rolled up paper towels to clean it out that dose a good job
I know it's permatex...
Using brake cleaner on the brake system? That might be a first!
24:18 that's one of the coolest tools I've seen. I use the old brake pad and a c clamp or adjustable pliers to press the piston back into the caliper. I always check the reservoir before doing this so I don't make a mess. People sometimes add brake fluid to the reservoir when the brake pads are worn, leaving you with a corrosive surprise near the end of the job. Lol
Yup. C-clamp and either the old pad or a 1/2 thick scrap of wood to spread the load evenly.
Oh yeah. I always take some fluid out of the master when I do that job.
You should push the fluid in the caliper out the bleeder so you don't end up with any crap in the abs pump or master cylinder but I guess lazy is as lazy does
That's nothin! You should see the tool he has for articulated calipers; now that things cools!
you shouldn't need that much force
REEE! You used an impact on a locking wheel nut! REEEEEE!
Flat rate! Locking wheel nuts absolutely suck.
NOT a keyboard warrior comment, but a rank amateur DYIer curiosity: I noticed you did not use the blue grease on the backs of the brake pads, or on the clips. I had once been "taught" to do that. I'm curious on your professional opinion on that practice. I was taught it was to combat the brake pads sticking to the caliper surface, and to promote free travel of the pads. Just curious. Love your videos!
Just my 2 cents but things that are pretty much necessary in the rust belt don't seem to be as much so in Florida. Let's see what others have to say.
Putting the grease under the clips is a thing we do up here in the rust belt to try and prevent rustjacking...prob not necessary where Ray is. As for greasing the top of the clips where the pad ears travel, there's a school of thought that says the grease will attract debris and gunk up the groove. As long as the pad ears can easily slide in the groove, no grease is necessary
Oh yeah, back of the pads. Cheap pads have steel backing plates so using some sort of lubricant between it and the caliper will help reduce noise. The good quality pads I've used had a coating on the backing plate that seems to negate the need for a lubricant. I apply one anyway...can't hurt
I've learned from experience not to push the piston on one caliper in while the other caliper is hanging loose because you run the risk of pushing that other piston out and making a huge mess not to mention you now have to bleed the system.
Never heard of that happening, since the total volume of fluid in the system is unchanged - the master fluid reservoir volume would take the extra fluid.
@@chuckschillingvideos If the pads are worn down almost metal to metal and the car owner tops up the brake fluid level, I'm pretty sure there's going to be too much fluid in the system when new pads are fitted.
The mechanic in this video didn't show us that he checked the reservoir level.
If the master cylinder cap was not removed the piston on the other caliper would be the weakest point and indeed pop out.
@@chuckschillingvideos Think about it. The force of the fluid coming from one caliper has to go somewhere. There is a great deal of resistance going back into the master cyl and almost none going into the othe caliper, Round and round the brake fluid goes and . .... POP GOES THE PISTON and (right after you mop the brake fluid off the floor. you go round and round to the pars store getting the parts (Like a new boot) to fix the damaged caliper,
What we have done with the BS floating caliper brakes is to take a C=clamp and retract the piston BEFORE taking to caliper off. And do them one at a time!,
@@chuckschillingvideos *Until it burped out.*
Mr. Ray - the main reason I watch your channel is because it seems like you like your work. Doing something you like or love is the best gift life can give you. As an old shadetree mechanic, I always learn something watching your videos. Keep it up! You're doing great.
Tip: Remove 1 slide pin at a time to clean and relube. Then re insert back in place. Reason, some calipers have different upper and lower style pins. It will save you time if you get the pins intermixed thus giving you a rough time trying to reinsert them.
well duh, if you cant keep track of em just dont work on cars...
He did that.
@@Sierrafan91 Well duh you wouldn't assume they were different and keep track of which is which.
I also clean out the insides. OCD? 🙂
@@JazzFunkNobby1964 Last time I checked the author of my FSM, there was no "Sierra"... 🤭
Amazing how Far you have come from over a year ago when you quit working at the shop
Pull the parking break in the rust belt ……its on for life!
That is not true if it's checked and adjusted during regular maintenance work.
I stopped using the parking brake after having to ride a coworker home and back the next day. We drove to work in the rain, temperature went below freezing during the day, by quitting time the parking brake was frozen.
My Dad taught me to never use the emergency brake when I lived in PA, rust, freeze up, now live in Florida and still don't.
Not being a stick in the mud but! I noticed that you didn’t lubricate the caliper pins ! Also IMO. It’s imperative that you derust and debur the flange and surface where the rotor or drums mount. Why ? With any debris it will make a high spot on that mounting causing the rotor to wobble, just like it was warped. Along with a very very light coating of anti seize to prevent rust jacking, especially in Rust belt areas of the country. Just my opinion 😱
Didn't watch the video, did you.
He did used purple grease on the sliding caliper pins.
But he didn't lube the hubs since Florida is not a rust belt state
Ray,let Troy know that New Balance makes some nice low sneaker style work shoes! I wear them everyday.They look good and meet all safety standards!
Why not spend a little bit more and use the zinc coated rotors? With Akebono brake pads!! Also not a big fan of the brake slid pin lube that you use!! I found it swells the rubber!!
Have to remember that it's not his personal car. When I was in field service and driving 50K miles per year I spent the money on premium parts. Now that I'm retired and driving less than 5K miles per year I just buy the first-tier parts. FYI, I put rotors like those on my 2016 Patriot five years ago and they still look minty.
@davewallace9048
It's been pretty standard for a couple of decades or more that 100% silicone paste is what you use on slider pins. Silicon won't swell rubber like that petroleum based permatex stuff Ray uses.
I would have checked the brake fluid res and removed cap before I pushed pistons back,you never know if somebody has topped it up when pads are low and it ends up pissin out or worse still flips the master seals 👍
That's happened to me!! Lol
You shouldn't leave a brake fluid reservoir cap off, brake fluid absorbs moisture. Whole new problem.
What in 5 minutes 😂@@jamesduncan578
Friday's should be get the brake disc lathe running and any other bit of kit working like a tyre machine, yes we spell tyre different.
It always triggers me that you never use moly grease on the hardware. It’s not just for rust belt vehicles. It’s in the service manual for many vehicles. I’ve travelled all over the country and world teaching mechanics. I’m required to teach “by the book”. You have a much larger audience, and many people are picking up your bad habits. Do it right. Don’t be lazy.
Bingo and he puts Scotty down, he never let the air out of the slide pins.. I would not pay him for a break job.. and no way would I let him change my oil!!..
@@tom535 I wouldn’t be that harsh, because the reality is, he’s giving you a better brake job or oil change than you’re gonna get 90% of the places. This is why I do it myself.
@jcnikoley I understand BUT I do my own as well,, come on could you Imagine how much his oil changes are with the CAN OF SNAKE 🐍 OIL$$ not going into my car that junk he puts in every oil change is for people who do not take care of there stuff,, and same with his Transmission changes,, I would never put that junk $$ in my car's Ray Should know better..
Isnt purple grease seizes up the rubber boot? I thought thats why people were getting ceramic silicone based grease instead of purple one for caliper pin.
so you dont do the light antisieze or greasetrick on the hub so it wont rust again? Pros cons?
Eric O swears by Fluid Film......
He's not in the rust belt. He does much less greasing compared to someone like Eric O because it's not necessary.
My rule as a mechanic: you cannot have both speed and quality at the same time, if you go too fast you lose quality and make mistakes that in the end cost time, make it the right pace as you go for the best result
Ray, what size Milwaukee impact are you using.
Hi Ray. Why do the automatic brake adjusters never seem to work, on your jobs? You always seem to have to nip them up manually.
Over here, that’s only ever necessary when somethings gone wrong, or when fitting new shoes. Otherwise they take care of themselves, with the ratchet advancing by one tooth, whenever there’s enough movement to allow it.
I can give you 2 reasons. #1 Is that Florida is very flat, almost no hills to speak of in the area that Ray is in and almost all cars are automatic trans. so almost nobody will use the parking break. Lack of use means the auto adjuster can not do it's job. Witch feeds into #2 Dirty threads on the auto adjuster prevent it from turning to make the click and adjust it self. So it is a 2 part problem that you will see all over Florida.
Most self adjusters work either by actuating the parking brake or when the normal brakes are pressed hard while in reverse.
With a hybrid, in Florida where folks typically have driveways, and no hills to require using a manual parking brake, they may not get enough inputs to adjust at the same rate of the wear. At least that’s my theory. In the north, salt roads in winter rust the adjusters solid.
Where is here ? I have never known an automatic adjuster work properly ! here in London older motors could always do with manual adjustment. I miss the days of the old square head key to do it with too !
Yes, people using Park, instead of the handbrake! Makes sense.
We use salt here too, but automatic trans is the exception, not the norm, so handbrakes are routinely used every time we park, before leaving the car. Regular use is probably what keeps them from seizing up.
Over all very accurate but a few pro points missed if I may… #1, the calipers can easily be compressed before removal with a pry bar or junk screw driver by prying against the rotor. It will also help find and potentially free tight pins. #2, clean the brackets under the pad shims. A build up will push the shims up causing tight pad fit. Pads need to slip right in and with spreaders on they should actually need held together when putting the calipers on. #3, all bare metal should get a thin coat of anti seize to prevent immediately rusting. The hub and shim pockets of the bracket only! Silicone or ceramic like you used everywhere else.
There’s a handful of other things to look out for that will tell you what to look for during the job like uneven wear and why it happened but that’s another video… like I said though it’s overall very good! The 2 most important things are pad movement and the lube used on pins…NO GREASE OR ANTI SEIZE!
I too reuse the screw, but I feel it is more important in VW land where there are no lug studs to hold the rotor from spinning causing the holes to get unaligned as you try to reinstall the wheel.
Hi Ray - Love your content!! I always check the level of the brake reservoir if the pads are this worn - if not, the brake fluid could end up coming out of the reservoir to bad places...
Don't forget to check the break Fluid when you push back those pistons. It happens to me once that i overfill the break fluid reservoir while i push back the pistons 😅😅
I always eased boot lips to check brake cylinder seals leak then eased shoes backwards and forwards to make sure cylinders pistons where not seizes in place. Loads of cylinders had started to leak fluid and you have caught it before it becomes an issue. Love the cleaning tool. I also used a wipe of copper slip light coating to stop drums seizing on. Pad slider runs on the casting I used to stroke with a file to remove all rust otherwise pads can stick in the sliders. Had it in the past and had it recently on a four pot caliper, pad looked like a cheese wedge. Vehicle had been laid up a lot with Covid. Again stoked with copper slip. Special silicon grease used on brake slider pins, otherwise it can affect the boot or the slider sleeves if used.
You are a proper mechanic.
Your screwdriver attachment for you air hammer is a slick tool. I use a hand impact tool myself. A couple whacks breaks the screws loose. Being a 1/2 square drive it can also work with sockets.
Hey, FYI, just in case, whatever you do, make sure you use JIS bits. I bought an impact tool from amazon that turns the screw 15 deg every time you whack it. Had a Philips bit shatter once and it took me hours to drill the thing out. Hope this helps
In aviation shops that tool is called an "old man".
I've had an impact screwdriver since 1974. Whack it with a hammer to turn the screw.
@@donsmith9478 Just not with a Phillips head. JIS is a must
4 cases of MALARIA reported in Sarasota County, Fl. Stay safe Ray!
Another quick question. What’s the purple grease you use on the slide pins?
We’ve tried everything, down the years, from regular hmp, through copper based and silicone grease and now we’re using an ultra high melting point grease that lists brakes as one of its’ uses, but it’s petroleum based, so I’m sure it’s not ideal for the rubber dust boots. Sticking caliper slide pins are a routine pita, so if there’s a better product, even if I have to get it from the US, I’d like to know about it.
Permatex Ceramic Extreme brake parts lubricant
Thanks @emmettturner9452. I’ll look it up and give it a try
I have always used anti seize with no problems
I use silicone grease as it's kind to rubber.
@@bikeman123 Yes, but all the synthetics are silicone based.
I have used channel locks to squeeze back caliper,but used old break pad so not to damage.
Hi Ray you always refer to bolt sizes as "mil" the correct way is "mm".
Mil refers to a thickness measurement term , .0001 = a tenthousanth of an inch. Thanks for the great work.
What is your opinion of duramax engines? In particular 6.5 duramax used in some rv's. Longevity, mpg etc. Thanks Ron
I kind of feel like those little rotor screws might be there to keep the rotors from falling off on the assembly line before the calipers are installed. The struts and knuckles and hubs and rotors are probably delivered to the Assembly Plant as completed subassemblies; at least that's the way I remember it from a tour of the Honda Assembly Plant in Alliston, Ontario. But unless you have a Honda Engineer tell you that is for sure the reason for those screws, yeah, they've gotta go back. Car companies don't spend money on extra parts and fasteners unless there is a reason. They are a pain in the butt, especially on the salted roads in my northern climate!
Another great repair, and another great video, Ray. Thanks. :)
They're not required. The rotors center on the studs just fine.
Those screws prevent wear on the hub assembly.
I should have known to invest in brake clean companies after watching you first video!! I'd be rich by now!! 😁😁
What I like to do to push the piston back is a C-Clamp. I used the old brake pad and clamp it down that way but I may look into that tool also.
WOW😮
My buddy at work and another, older coworker (machine shop) told me the same thing. Mine were really easy to push back in though. Could do it by hand
If you are a DIYer why buy tools that you only rarely?
@@LesReeves A DIYer will do his brakes for most of his life. Nothing rare about that.
I've recently got the spreader tool and plan on using it when I replace my pads this year. I've been doing my own brakes since 1968-1971 when I had a Mustang and a Ford van that had only drum brakes. Brake pads and rotors made it much easier doing brake jobs.
If you're going to use the C-CLAMP you can leave the old pad in place while you clamp the piston back in to avoid damage.
Based on the amount of brake cleaner that you use, have you ever considered getting a pressurized sprayer like the one made by Sure Shot? Harbor Freight released a clone recently. I think that you'd save a fortune, but of course we wouldn't get to see the empty cans fly and roll across the shop...
The Rainman without brakeclean!? Blasphemy!!!! boo this man 🤣
Have to throw empty can, can't do that with a plastic refill jug😅
They make us use them and it takes a few minutes to refill, time is money. At our shops rate of $140, 5 minutes equals $11.50. ;)
Someone make one hour of rainmanray throws brake clean can
The brake clean company should sponsor ray as the amount he shows that dam can flying across the garage 😂 means there aint enough product in the can 😂
Good afternoon from Japan
Ha man it was great to see you use an air hammer with what we call in aviation a screw buster adapter. Everything in planes is Phillips #2 and #3 so it’s an absolute must to have. I’ve seen people in the auto industry struggle with those Phillips in the rotors forever and hadn’t seen anyone use either a rivet gun like we use or air hammer to knock ‘em out. Best trick
They have manual impact screwdrivers. I have one and they work well on these set screws.
60 % of NAS235 and AN509 and AN525 series are slotted. ✈✈✈
When I do a bolt on brake job, I torque the bracket bolts to spec. Then I torque the caliper bolts to spec. With blue lock tight. Before I remove the calipers I retract the piston with a prybar between the pad and rotor. You are a good mechanic. I just prefer accuracy. That's why I use my torque wrenches.
Did the fronts on my car not too long ago, I used Akebono pads and their instructions said no burnishing procedure was required, but they did recommend to avoid very quick and heavy stops if you could for the first 500 miles.
Did it actually use the word 'burnish' ? Must be a US thing. Burnishing is polishing.
So all this to find out the "trick" is just to wash the rotor oil off. Geesh. Well, you got me. I fell for the clickbait.
Yup, C clamp and old brake pad (protects the piston face) nice one Ray
looking at the passenger side rotor i would have recommended replacing instead of a resurfacing. that dark ring on the rotor surface looks suspiciously like an area that was over heating. doing a resurfacing may have cleared it but i bet the customer would be back within 6 months with all kinds of hot spots causing some noise
Sorry if this is obvious, but the reason why the wheel hub has lubricant on its face is because someone had to get a torch and large hammer out to remove the rotor the last time. Just a shade tree mechanic in Ohio, but I have to do this with my vehicles. Just did my wife's Subaru for the first time, and it was a combination of MAP gas and a 4lb hammer to get the rotors off. They go back on with either fluid film or brake and caliper grease. They literally fall off without any help the next time.
I have used a very thin film of copper anti-seize under the rotor and under the wheel and rotor. Using painted rotors helps the wheel sticking problem but having to change a tire never happens when you have a BFH to knock the wheel loose.
Yup...once you've spent an hour pounding on an alloy wheel, trying to get it off the hub due to the galvanic corrosion, you learn to lubricate the hub faces...every...single...time...
Ditto what everyone said on the anti-seize on the wheel hub interface! If you put a light finger-smear along the hub, future-you just might thank you.
I say that coating was put there by Honda because most of that brake drum is cast aluminum. Did you notice all the shiny shiny inside it?
(A rust belt survivor, I, too, am a fan of anti-seize or Fluid Film for hubs, drums, rotors,wheels..)
Zip ties are a wonder of the modern world. They have a million &one use’s
I normally measure the disc thickness to determine whether to replace them. I also use copper grease on the disc retaining screws. I also file or grind off any unworn outside edge of drum braking surface so it is flush with the worn part. That lets you adjust it properly. I am editing my comment because I made it before watching to the end of the video. Final mistake was not checking the brake fluid level. If the reservoir has been topped up to compensate for pad wear / piston movement it is often too high when new parts have been fitted.
I would guess that Ray just didn't show that. He was in the engine bay on the last video and should have seen the reservoir then.
Most brake job customers would never top up. But yes, one should check.
@@aderi31415 Why would you not show it? The reservoir level is very important. He didn't show us using his torque wrench either...
Note to Self : Brake Clean is NOT Brain Clean ! Unless you plan to throw it away.
If I could be certified to be an Auto Technician just by watching your videos I wouldn't have gone to school for it. Honestly, you show and tell(teach) as if you're an Instructor. I love your videos!
He hasn't shown how to get a broken tap out of a bolt hole of an engine block with the hole at the front of the engine and the engine still in the car. I'm having to figure that one out for myself. No success yet.
@@jeromebarry1741 Creative welding?
@@Slicerwizard Maybe. I'm concerned that I'd melt the block before melting the tap.
@@jeromebarry1741he removed broken bolts and studs countless times from engine blocks. Just use welder
@@jeromebarry1741 center punch and hammer, needs to be on the small size though. taps break like glass. work a sharp center punch around in the hole and it will come out as bits and dust.
When I was in the Air Force, the greasy paws would constantly complain that there were no zip-lock parts bags... when some parts would arrive, they would rip or cut open the bag instead of opening the zip-lock at the top of the bag, I guess they just couldn't control their excitement at the opportunity to get dirty again...
That lubricant on the front wheel hubs is probably copper paste, that might be the reason the front rotors came out so easily. At least that's what I use when I do my own rotor replacement
Finally figured out why the "rainman" moniker.... it's always friggin' rainin' brake clean... when Ray's at work....
Better than "Snow Man" where he used to work in the rust belt
Nice detailed brakes replacement 👍🙂 that’s why I save money and increased my skill because of you guys🙂 thanks for the good video 👋👍🙂
That impact is a beefy boy compared to the old one!! FYI if you have any milwaukee M18 tools they sell an adapter to use rigid batteries on milwaukee and vice versa.
Ohh yeah and "reeeeeeee"
Nicely done, Ray. I love how you teach and make it look so effortless at the same time. Well done.
😅I use an old wire coat hanger to hang calipers 😅 it works lol
I was surprised that you waited until installation to push the caliper pistons back. It was one of the first things I did just in case a caliper was stuck or a brake hose was defective preventing the piston from retracting.
I agree to an extent, but we don't see that really at all down here in FL. Corrosion doesn't exist here like up north in the rust belt. I've not replaced a single caliper on a vehicle since I moved down here over a decade ago. Back up north it was nearly a weekly thing on a vehicle coming through for brake work that a caliper was seized.
I put a light coat of grease in the hardware where the ears on the pads slide.😉
Your information is invaluable to me.... I do my own brake repairs and I knew about brake break-in but didn't realize about burnishing the pads in like you explained it.... I always treat my brakes gingerly until about 50 miles or so as in a break-in procedure....
As Troy says..Need more breaks and less brakes...Ha ha ha😅
New rotors need pad material spread evenly around them. Multiple light stops from moderate speed (20 mph) without actually stopping, then up the speed (40 mph) and do more stops. About 20 total stops (without stopping) and you're good. Break in is done.
Have you never heard of having the bleed screw open when you push the caliper back so that you don't force dirty fluid back into the ABS controller?
He doesn't even look at the master cylinder's reservoir levels.
A lot of the older Nissan and 'Yota pickups from back in the 80's actually had 2 plugs per cylinder; it has to do with 'squish' and 'quench' areas inside the combustion chamber approaching the point of ignition in order to effect a more complete burn. It's somewhat rare, but is found on Japanese engines more'n anything.
Z engines...
Brakes?
That screw impact is one of the best tools I ever got off the rape truck.
@Evil-Jesus
Wow that expression has been used since I worked in shops back in the early 1980s! haa...
@@watershed44 lol
With 2 mechanics and 3 bays it’s time for another set of caliper hangers and save on zip ties !
I don't believe he doesn't have some old wires laying around to improvise a few caliper hangers.
@@module79l28 Which is silly to do in a professional shop.
@@Slicerwizard - When the professionals in the professional shop don't know where the caliper hangers are, which is not very professional in itself, any reusable piece of wire is better than a single use piece of plastic.
The rear brakes looks like self adjusting, thre is the small lever that should do this
The adjusters work when braking quite positively in reverse. Florida is flat as a pancake and most cars are automatic anyway, so if the owners don't know to stomp on the brakes or use the handbrake hard while reversing out of their driveway occasionally, they gum up and never adjust.
I thought you were gonna hang them backwards somehow. I was thinking "I have GOT to see that" 😁
I thought the same it was like a waste of time watching someone put brakes on the same as we all do. But I like this guys videos anyway so I don't mind.
@@osbro1523 There was a chance of something weird... I was hoping 🤣
Yeah, he clickbaited us.
@Slicerwizard A bit, yeah. It gets attention but I can't do it
Ray Some mechanics think If they find those screws in the rotor the brakes must be original but like you I would put them back on
Blows my mind that a 2008 civic has drum brakes,was not expecting that 😂
Rear drums contribute plenty of stopping power along with front discs. But they are more complex than discs so I don't know why manufacturers held onto them so long.
@@kenore4003 this was my thought too, surely disc brakes are more cost effective to make by now and they are much simpler to maintain and service 🤔
Drums are quite popular on the small cars - most of the stopping power is taken by the front discs, so the lower efficiency isn’t a problem. Also, the car needs a hand brake (legally in EU), it’s complicated to arrange a mechanical disc brake alongside a disk - many cars now have drum handbrake with a disc rotor as part of the drum. Adds unsprung mass to the wheel…
@@colinprice712 Not that complicated. CR-V's used to have them. Better is rear discs with electric parking brake motors - more reliable than corroding PB cables and silly drums.
@@Slicerwizard More expensive too. Manufacturers don't like unnecessary expense.
No rust under the hardware, fantastic climate you have!
Along with watching your repair and testing you do I must say you have a lovely part of the world doing your test drives. England has less pleasant views especially in London where i am. 👍🇬🇧
NO BACKWARDS HANGING TRICK HERE - just another cheezy UTube headline
You also have to watch when pushing the piston back in that the master cylinder doesn't overflow. Usually as the pads wear people see their master cylinder level drop and keep topping it up. Pushing the pistons right back can cause overflow in that scenario. Car paint doesn't like brake fluid!
*Neither does the floor or ahot exhaust manifold. Although with Ray's floor one might not notice. TCCN would not tolerate that floor and neither can I. Cheers!*
The rotor screws are used when on assembly line, the wheel will hold rotor on. How many decades they were not there?
Nice job Ray. A good mechanic you are.
I totally heard that in rays voice. 😂
Although Ray does top job repairing/maintaining this car like always. It seems the particular Honda dealership turned out to be 100% honest too?
This is my car. The dealership (Brandon Honda) seems like they got a lot of stuff right and didn't over embellish too much. I've only ever taken this car to them for $20 oil changes, so all the paperwork I provided to Ray is from their point inspection and mileage recommended maintenance during an oil change. They wanted me to okay a diagnostic on the oil leak, and I suspect they would have came to the same conclusion, but wanted an absurd amount of money just to diagnose the issue.
One thing that used to cheese me about working for Autozone was the fact that their new rotors typically had less than 0.020" of material above the marked wear limit, and some of them shaved that down to "damned little". They weren't alone in that. Once upon a time, you could expect to be able to put fourty thousandths of wear on a rotor before it went below the wear limit, but the manufacturers figured out that a new disc that went past "worn out" at the same time as the pads (if not before) was a great little profit center.
Ford has come new at factory minimum for years
That must be an autozone thing. We typically turned off up to that much to get rid of grooves and they would still be in tolerance. Of course we stocked Wagner parts...
@@912ruckus2 Weird. I've personally put 45k miles on my car and just had my brakes inspected and the only issue is a slide is sticking. I don't even need pads yet.
Interestingly enough, where I live its apparently now illegal to resurface brake rotors, no shops own a brake lathe anymore. The few places I called said they sold theirs or gave them away.
Places around me charge about half the price of new from web based auto part stores so I get them from there and don't have a car on jackstands waiting for the rotors to be done. Just don't wait until they are metal to metal.
The manufacturers put a lot less metal into the designs, to save weight and increase fuel economy and performance. This makes them a lot more prone to warp when things go wrong, and also have very little room to machine when they get older. Add the low price of new parts for many cars and the decision becomes easy, just replace.
I’m curious about the passenger side caliper potentially hanging, given the paper thin pads. I know the local shops will just slap the new pads in, to not open the system, then do calipers 6-12 months later. Good to see this side of the business to better inform the side of the business that I currently work in. Thanks
As an old retired mechanic I now only do family work so I always change the rotors you can not know if the old ones are warped but like you say a lot of DIYers just do a pad slap.(false economy.)I also give the caliper a good clean & replace if required.
@@LesReeves You would use a disk run out gauge to check if a disk (rotor) is warped. A professional should have one and not just replace disks needlessly.
@@JazzFunkNobby1964 As I have said in the past I'm retired & do not posess all of my tools anymore so changing rotors to me is a fail safe & they are cheap so to me that makes sense.Cheers.
I notice you took the rears off in a star pattern but then where it counts, you take the fronts off closest lug next. However it's not a big deal since they were cold: Just a habit to develop for when you're taking them off hot so you don't warp the rotor.
I agree 100% with the rotor replacement policy. Once labor is included, new rotors are just as cost effective, but the main thing is braking power. Making sure you get quality rotors that are just as heavy as factory rotors, you give your customer as much mass in new rotors as was designed in the new car. Remember: The heavier the rotor the more distance you can have maximum braking power before they get too hot and can't absorb any more heat. The rotors are the heat-sink! "Turning" rotors only makes them lighter (as does slotting and drilling), reducing their mass which reduces and/or shortens braking power.
Re: "Slotting" and "Drilling" rotors. The purpose of these two modifications is to increase braking power *_when the brakes are wet!_* The holes and slots release the steam coming out of the pads that is trying to separate the pads from the rotors and keep the pads pressed against the rotors as hard as possible. It is a racing modification that is meant for race cars and is NOT recommended for street cars. Slotting and drilling rotors *_decreases the mass of the rotors_* and *reduces* braking power when conditions are dry. Anybody driving a street car as though he's in a race, *when it is raining,* should have his head examined.
Great video. I would never use an impact or air tool on a locking wheelnut key though, they tend to be made of chocolate and break easily. Ratchet and torque wrench every time!
You are just a slight bit off good sir... COFFEE STAT! May I humbly suggest 2 cups of high test... I prefer a good dark roast. Thank you for another awesome video.🙏💜
The CRC salesman told me not to disclose that water cleans brake dust and brake fluid to Ray. Might shut down his bonus for the southeast region.
;)
Still need it to clean that oil coatings from new rotors
Very rarely do I ever get a rotor that has the rotor screws in it😅
I would take the cap off the master cylinder when decompressing the calipers,,just saying 😊
14th! GOOD MORNING RAY AND THE WIFE UNIT! ALONG WITH THE TWO NEW EMPLOYEES! Roger in Pierre South Dakota
There's a new concept brake cleaner used on brakes, got to try that.😝
Rainman, Yes, pumping the brakes is very good, I lost my F-150 driver's mirror on the stall door frame! 🤦♂️🫣🤬
Lol Castor Troy going all Captain Obvious on you 🤣🤣🤣 Glad that didn't drop on your foot, cause that would be bad👊
Was in the down hill side if my wife’s brake job, bought 3 cans of brake cleaner, when I took the caps off they did not make the alarm sound yours does whenever you whip one out, defective?🤣😂🤣🤡In this video yours seems to be broken to🤡😂🤣