Not a rerun…kind of. It’s Sunday I didn’t make a video yesterday. I posted this one, which was previously unlisted. There was a live chat earlier to go with it. It’s called a premier video. Sorry for the confusion.
Must admit,, Quality rather than quantity.. so for me (in UK) I less interested in all your vids where it all about what a PITA it is to get access to bits on a 2009 Chevy.. I mostly interested in process videos on how to diagnose faults (which can be make/model specific... but general principals work best for me).
Just a little hint: Leave grease fitting out til last. Put finger tip full of grease inside each cap and wipe around the bearings. It'll keep bearings in place no matter what method you use to install joint. Excess grease will squirt out fitting hole. Put fitting in and it's done. Thanks for the videos.
This is exactly what I was here to say. I always added some grease and it did a very good job of making the bearing stay put. Makes it a lot easier than dealing with them falling out repeatedly.
No Ray... Just beat on the yoke to relax the bearings to centre them - Don't hit on the bearings caps & trunnions. No need for pullers either, just knock out the the bearing caps using the yoke against the vice. Really easy this way & just install one cap at a time. Hope this helps mate.
I prefer the spend 2 hours trying to get the needle bearings lined up, get a needle bearing stuck under the trunnion.. swear lots... spend 1 hour trying to get it apart again because now it's stuck... give up and take it to a driveline shop and just get them to do it for $100 method.
Sorry Ray to criticize, it's not hard to tell you're not old school but this was a half-assed U-joint installation. This job is not very complex and can easily be performed without the use of a bench vise or pullers. In the future, remove the four clips first, the vise only needs to be used as a rest for the sides of the yolk to lay on. The U-joint caps should always be removed and installed in the same way they are put in, never forced them through the center, never beat on the clips or cups to center the U-joint, give the yolk a couple of whacks to remove the caps and again after cap installation for centering when the clips are installed. To avoid losing needle bearings, a dab of sticky grease on the finger and insert it in the cap will hold the bearings prior to installation, hold the u-joint while tapping the cups on. After installation of the yolk, give each ear of the yolk and outward tap on 2 sides of each opposing yolk to center the joint and then grease Although it is not the case in this scenario take note, some of the older NOS U-joints can only be installed one way as the grease zirk is off centered on one side, if the U-joint is installed incorrectly, you won't be able to use a grease gun
This comment should get a heart from Ray. Very well explained. But Ray needs (and takes) no advice....just watched a short time ago doing Eric a similar job on a GM vehicle....that was a way more sophisticated example of how to do this kind of job
@@Akadectra Thanks, but I'm not into hearts.. Ray always asks viewers to leave a comment so sometimes I do, its my contribution to boost the algorithms on his channel. I didn't realize you worked for Ray as his PR guy to field suggestions from his fans and that he no longer wanted any advice.., wow that's cold!!!...., He should have said something... My advice isn't only for him, If I put it out there...,then it's free to anyone who wants to take it.. but my opinions are my own. My advice to you, you should pay attention to the channel or you'll get fired. If it wasn't for Ray reading the comments a very short while ago.., he would have trashed a transmission that he assembled wrong but luckily he caught his own mistake after reading and taking advice from a very knowledgeable viewer. By the way, Ray owned this mistake and he promptly thanked the viewer himself because he knew you were too busy speaking for Eric.
I always put a "smhear" of wheel bearing grease on the tranny shaft as it enters the clutch disk. Look at the old one for the rust. The rust makes for a hard clutch the following year.
Sounds like everyone has their own way of doing U-Joints. I too have my own way or ways actually depending on what tools i have available at the time. So I won't fault you or tell you there's a better way to do it. You simply did it the way you felt was best using the tools you had available at the time. Bottom line is you got the job done. Will be interesting to see how the rest goes so hope you film and post the rest of the reassembly.
If you do them all day, every day. You can actually make piece of hardwood with a hole the size of a end cap to hold the cap in place. A little bit like a wooden pickle fork. Then use the rest of the hardwood to hold the other end off the floor end until partially (1or 2 lb)hammer slides in. Then do the other side also halfway in and check for binding. Then smack it gently till it is flush and check again. Then use a socket to push it in. When it is deep enough put the clip in. Tap on it till it seats. Check it again and do the other side. But you do have to keep a eye out for the motor pool SGT ordering a bunch more. Cuz you just became the Private Snuffy U-joint machine. Yes that happens when the division moves from one continent to another. Then the motor vehicles stay there in case you have to come back. You move with what you can carry.
I used to worry about the cups not being quite central and the joint being stiff, when I was starting out. Got a few lectures about taking too long with them. Then my boss at the time showed me how he always did it. His joints were almost locked up, when he finished assembling them, but after a few seconds working them, they self centred and with a smug wink, he put it back under the car, in not much longer than I was taking to dismantle them. Lesson learned.
Ray, don’t let the comments get to you. What you did worked and everyone has there way of doing this. I read a lot of the comments and most are different on how they would have done it. So they can’t even agree on a way. You did great! Keep up the awesome job
@@RainmanRaysRepairs Hahaha. Everyone is an expert on TH-cam! I personally have learned from your channel so much and became much more comfortable working on my car. You saved me thousands already.
@@RainmanRaysRepairs Just came to mind, you could always over pack the cups with grease pull the zert that way the needle berrings cant move then press the cap on, the shit load lump of grease will plow out the zerts hole and the other sides. Each cups done this way the needel berrings will stay put where they belong when all the caps are on and the snap rings in place you put the zert fitting back in. Thats what you did without packing the caps full first. From somthing ive read you shouldn't mix grease types and you do not know what the last kind was. One grease type can cause the other to harden or go bad make it break down faster. I dont know if this is right. Its just something I've read, but when I hand pack berrings I like to push out all the old grease for fresh grease or the type im using.
Hey Ray, get a cheap Arbor Press from Harbor Freight. When you do the pressing in a vertical plane, you seldom have issues with the needle bearings dropping out.. You can also use the Arbor press and a socket smaller than the bearing cap to bear on the circlip to senter the u joint in the yoke after you assemble it.
He already has one. He's used it in previous videos. Maybe he was just trying to show alternate methods. But I agree, using the arbor press would have been quicker and easier.
I've almost always used a ball peen hammer to strike the yoke casting between the shaft and the uni. Usually a short authoritative whack is all it takes but you have to strike all four to release the tension. I'm sure this is fairly old school. Gramps used to do that when we replaced the universal joints on PTO shafts on the Silo loaders, mower, silage chopper, forage wagons, feeder wagon, lagoon pump, and liquid manure spreaders. A short 1-2 sec burst from a small air hammer with a small diameter flat bit in the same place you'd strike them will free them up too. There are a bunch of different ways to do it and it's interesting to see how other people handle it.
When using a bench vise for pressing, always use the center of the jaws directly over the centerline boss of the vise. My advise is from 50 years of experience as a tool maker in a machine shop, only trying to be helpful
I use to use WD40 then tap it with a hammer. The install is to put extra grease in the caps then the needles don't move. I use a socket and tap with a hammer. U joints are more finesse than brute force. I was always fearful to loose a needle. Just FYI I do enjoy watching someone else doing the work.
I have a really good shop in my town that does this work and are quick so I take this kind of press work to them. I know that this is becoming a rarity anymore so I do feel fortunate in this availability.
It's nice to see the process of changing the u-joints it has been many years since doing this it has brought back memories. Those needles falling down happened to me many times.
34:12 years ago as a teenager I changed my u joints laying under the car with just a hammer screwdriver and plyers I gain deep respect for them dam needel berrings really fast, they kept falling out. It was the biggest pain in the ass. It was up on a jack no jacket stands Just the wheels placed under the frame incase the car fell down, it was on an older car using a bumper jack. Now I look back im lucky to be alive. Ive pulled transmission like that too. No transmission jack, just drop it on a rim and slide it out.
Watching you do this U-Joint job is really bringing back memories. Yes I had to redo U-Joint installations because of the dreaded Needle Bearing slips.
I appreciate your honesty and if make a mistake you own it and then you show how to overcome the mistake thank you 🙏 when I was younger I put my own u joints I use a hammer and a socket to hammer out the joint but 45 yrs ago 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
That old truck is in good shape. People are putting a few bucks in these old trucks to keep them going. They are not going to pay 60k - 80k for a new one. Who needs to let go of the wheel so they can clap to we are the champions? Good Heavens
I gotta say, that was painful to watch. No pullers necessary and no smacking the cap and locks to adjust tension…you know better. In any event, you got it done and some ppl learned the pros and cons of u-joint replacement 👍
Ray, thanks to you i now know about u joints in great detail! one can’t afford to get it wrong or will backfire & fail. not an easy job even with optimal tools what with “fall-apart” needle bearing plus all the final micro adjustments. glad it’s you, not me.
I knew a guy who replaced the rear uni on his car and then complained of a rhythmic knock. He asked me to take a look at it after 2 weeks and said he'd bring it around on the weekend. He lived about 3 hours drive away (which isn't a lot when you live in Queensland). So he drove it to my house with his family on board! I thought he was briging it on a trailer. Once we got it off the ground I had a look and found he'd put the new uni in 90 degrees out (it was a design where they were slightly longer than they are wide, but noticable). When we got the caps out they disintegrated in my hand into chunks from heat stress. The needle bearings had all vaporised and the stubs of the uni were worn down to cone-shaped ends! He had said that he wasn't keen on going over 80kph (50mph) on the highway and I'm not surprised! Apart from the fact he didn't kill his family on the road, what scared me the most was that this guy was a senior field tech for a major road-side service company. As far as I know, he's still out there 'fixing' breakdowns.
I watched an old neighbour do the uni's on his tractor. He always sticks his crosses in the lathe and puts a small slightly round taper on the ends. It stops the needles from collapsing and holds a ridge of grease. Swears by the method.
Ray, slide the propellor shaft back so the eyes of the yoke sit on the vice jaws, then take and hold the short section and then just hit the upright yoke with a 2ib hammer. Repeat on the opposite side, yokes out in no time. I did this hundreds of times on ujs without failures.
Hey Ray, I've seen you overhaul an engine quicker than it took to get that u joint in. Don't fret as it's taken me 2 to 3 times longer on some of my u joint jobs over the years. Good thing I was doing it for myself or I would have gone Broke if I was doing it for a living. Keep up the good work and love your and the Misses Videos.
Ray, I so appreciate this video. I haven't done one for years but I never had the chance to do one in a shop so it was good to know that they can be a pain even in a shop. So many times I messed up those needle bearings.
That would be a really good time to do the pan gasket as you cannot get it out with the trans in place, unless you unbolt the motor mounts and intake and jack engine up I hope you do a part 2 on this
Ray, the next time that you’re having such a difficult time getting the u- joint cup retainer clips out, try some diagonal cutters. They bite into the clips “just enough” to be able to get the clips to spin in the shaft recess and then they come right out. Experience is your best teacher. 😊
Yep, rear main, whether it needs it or not, prevents comebacks. I have a long 33" extension, 1/2 drive to locking 3/8 drive, makes trans bolts much easier to get to. Also checkout Tiger Tools U joint puller, it will cut your ujoint time in half, I have been using it for over 10 years and it is great. Looks like the customer rides the clutch, so you may want to talk to them about their driving habits. Anyway Good work today, Blue Mule
I feel your pain, from 39 years ago. I am a licensed plumber and an industrial mechanic. My first truck I bought was a 62 Ford Unibody (sitting in a barn for 18 years}. Trying to "bring it back to life" and repair the drive train of that thing, taught me to buy more tools, learn patience and I hated replacing U-joints.
I remember doing U joints in my car over 50 years ago but I was in a parking lot of my apartment building with just hand tools and I didn't struggle half what you did ray. I didn't even have advice to use
I ALWAYS put a glob of grease in the cup to help prevent the roller pins from falling into the cup. I also put penetrating oil on the old cups to help them slide out to prevent excessive pressure on the shaft/yoke ears.
In the street,I removed all the clips,take a socket slightly smaller than bearing cap,tap U-joint all the way over,cap on other side would fall out,then knock the other way other would fall out.same on yoke.use same socket & big C clamp to press in.
I have always used a couple of sockets to do U joints...along with a vice of course. It is scary doing that fourth cap on the front as if it gets buggered up or otherwise isn't right back apart it comes. I also leave the zerk fitting out until after its assembled so it will allow air to push out as caps go on. Rusty truck U joints are a royal PITA...at least you didn't have to use heat to get them to move and the clips came out in one piece. It's such fun digging clip remnants out of the slot to pull it apart. A great video as always Ray:-)
Yoicks, what a crunchy Ford. The driver's door may need hinge pins. Replacing this U-Joint brought back memories. Whether going into a Ford, GM, Chrysler, etc., needle bearings do not care. They'll slip out of place. I admire your patience. Good job. 😉👍🏼
GOOD MORNING RAY AND THE WIFE UNIT! Along with the two new employees in which the garage wouldn’t run so smoothly! What a rusty truck! I’m surprised it has come apart as easily as it has! Roger in Pierre South Dakota
My dad always bought two U joints when he did them…. Better to take one back then forced to make a drive back to parts store. And he always used way more grease in the caps to hold the needles. But of course always a tedious job that was one tiny bearing away from disaster everytime lol glad I haven’t had to do one in a very long time!
Pro tip. Instead of the old cap, use a socket with a smaller outside diameter of the cap when pressing in or out. Ditto on removal except on the opposite side use a socket with the INSIDE diameter slightly Larger than the OD of the bearing cap. No Tugging on the U joint ears, Just pure pressure from the vise.
I watch you on a daily basis, thanks Ray and i'm learning something each day. Good job and keep doing it this way. Troy is lucky to work with you and i will become a master Tech.
The old school way of doing u joint replacements is so much easier than the way you are doing it. I get there is about a million different ways to do it. Main thing is it gets done. I’m bring so many memories of doing this and I catch my self yelling at you telling you 😂 you are doing it the hard way. Lol
It's been a handful of decades since I did something like that, however I used to use regular grease to hold the needle bearing in place as it is stickier than the lube that is shipped with. Also a small socket will drive the caps on and off with a few gentle taps of a hammer. The vice works but is really cumbersome. Always enjoy your vids. Keep'em coming!
That otc puller kit is doing amazing on Removing these U joint caps 😮 🤔 never used a ball joint puller on a u joint that's impressive they held up to that Stress 11:03 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
This was a pain as I couldnt access the link in the comments on my normal watching preference on my Fire TV. Thank you for posting it though, just had to do a work around :)
Ooh, Spicer u-joints...pretty sure those are the ones Eric O. mentioned are far and away the best you can get but they're not readily available in his area
27:00 I have used a 1/2 nut on both sides to press the caps in. Done right, about half the time for me, you could see the groove for the clip put that one in and then press the other side until you are set. Hammer impacts on bearings causes brinelling, bearing fails sooner than design.
Ray, you have a hydrolic press. Best thing to press wheel bearing out. I had to use the vice myself. I only usually remove one cap and just press that one on with the keeper already installed on the side with the cap. Then center the bearing between the 2 while pressing the orher side into the yoke. Its much eaaier to keep thise damn needle bearings from falling out.
I am now officially glad I never attempted replacing U Joints. I didn't know anyone who'd done it, and Motors Manual didn't really cover what to do without a press.
Not a rerun…kind of. It’s Sunday I didn’t make a video yesterday. I posted this one, which was previously unlisted. There was a live chat earlier to go with it. It’s called a premier video. Sorry for the confusion.
And here I thought I was living in the future having already seeing a newly posted video. That's for making me think I've been to the future Ray.....😂
Thanks for unconfusing me. I though it was deja vu.
Must admit,, Quality rather than quantity.. so for me (in UK) I less interested in all your vids where it all about what a PITA it is to get access to bits on a 2009 Chevy.. I mostly interested in process videos on how to diagnose faults (which can be make/model specific... but general principals work best for me).
Hey dud! I totally understand the constant video upload demands! I wish I was more consistent! Oh, videos about the car in my profile picture. 😉
I was wondering if I was losing my mind. :) I'll watch it again.
Just a little hint: Leave grease fitting out til last. Put finger tip full of grease inside each cap and wipe around the bearings. It'll keep bearings in place no matter what method you use to install joint. Excess grease will squirt out fitting hole. Put fitting in and it's done. Thanks for the videos.
That was the way I use to do more grease in each cap no ham done plus the bearing do stay in place
It also keeps the grease fitting from accidentally getting broken off during assembly.
Thank you sir maybe Ray will pick this up I was screaming it from the beginning of the video.
This is exactly what I was here to say. I always added some grease and it did a very good job of making the bearing stay put. Makes it a lot easier than dealing with them falling out repeatedly.
O😊😊98oi7😅❤❤❤😂
😊❤ a 34:46
Spicer u-joints installed with a bench vise! Well aren't you fancy... in my day we installed them with a club hammer and swear words.
No Ray... Just beat on the yoke to relax the bearings to centre them - Don't hit on the bearings caps & trunnions. No need for pullers either, just knock out the the bearing caps using the yoke against the vice. Really easy this way & just install one cap at a time. Hope this helps mate.
This was painful to watch...
Every time I yelled "NO! Don't do it that way", Ray didn't listen.
I was there with you@@stans5270
Thats how I was told to do it to.
I prefer the spend 2 hours trying to get the needle bearings lined up, get a needle bearing stuck under the trunnion.. swear lots... spend 1 hour trying to get it apart again because now it's stuck... give up and take it to a driveline shop and just get them to do it for $100 method.
Took the words right outta my mouth! I was like, no! Don't beat on those caps!
Sorry Ray to criticize, it's not hard to tell you're not old school but this was a half-assed U-joint installation. This job is not very complex and can easily be performed without the use of a bench vise or pullers. In the future, remove the four clips first, the vise only needs to be used as a rest for the sides of the yolk to lay on. The U-joint caps should always be removed and installed in the same way they are put in, never forced them through the center, never beat on the clips or cups to center the U-joint, give the yolk a couple of whacks to remove the caps and again after cap installation for centering when the clips are installed. To avoid losing needle bearings, a dab of sticky grease on the finger and insert it in the cap will hold the bearings prior to installation, hold the u-joint while tapping the cups on. After installation of the yolk, give each ear of the yolk and outward tap on 2 sides of each opposing yolk to center the joint and then grease
Although it is not the case in this scenario take note, some of the older NOS U-joints can only be installed one way as the grease zirk is off centered on one side, if the U-joint is installed incorrectly, you won't be able to use a grease gun
Agree
agree, it was painful to watch.
This comment should get a heart from Ray. Very well explained. But Ray needs (and takes) no advice....just watched a short time ago doing Eric a similar job on a GM vehicle....that was a way more sophisticated example of how to do this kind of job
@@Akadectra Thanks, but I'm not into hearts.. Ray always asks viewers to leave a comment so sometimes I do, its my contribution to boost the algorithms on his channel.
I didn't realize you worked for Ray as his PR guy to field suggestions from his fans and that he no longer wanted any advice.., wow that's cold!!!...., He should have said something... My advice isn't only for him, If I put it out there...,then it's free to anyone who wants to take it.. but my opinions are my own.
My advice to you, you should pay attention to the channel or you'll get fired.
If it wasn't for Ray reading the comments a very short while ago.., he would have trashed a transmission that he assembled wrong but luckily he caught his own mistake after reading and taking advice from a very knowledgeable viewer.
By the way,
Ray owned this mistake and he promptly thanked the viewer himself because he knew you were too busy speaking for Eric.
He still got the job done though so was this comment really necessary? lol
Seriously who doesn't want to find out what the clutch pack looks like!!! LOL 😆 🤣
Haa, yeah, that's gonna be something !!
I always put a "smhear" of wheel bearing grease on the tranny shaft as it enters the clutch disk. Look at the old one for the rust. The rust makes for a hard clutch the following year.
Sounds like everyone has their own way of doing U-Joints. I too have my own way or ways actually depending on what tools i have available at the time. So I won't fault you or tell you there's a better way to do it. You simply did it the way you felt was best using the tools you had available at the time. Bottom line is you got the job done. Will be interesting to see how the rest goes so hope you film and post the rest of the reassembly.
That’s why they call them you joints lol
@@squiggyg.8415😊
If you do them all day, every day. You can actually make piece of hardwood with a hole the size of a end cap to hold the cap in place.
A little bit like a wooden pickle fork.
Then use the rest of the hardwood to hold the other end off the floor end until partially (1or 2 lb)hammer slides in. Then do the other side also halfway in and check for binding. Then smack it gently till it is flush and check again. Then use a socket to push it in. When it is deep enough put the clip in. Tap on it till it seats. Check it again and do the other side. But you do have to keep a eye out for the motor pool SGT ordering a bunch more.
Cuz you just became the Private Snuffy U-joint machine. Yes that happens when the division moves from one continent to another.
Then the motor vehicles stay there in case you have to come back. You move with what you can carry.
I used to worry about the cups not being quite central and the joint being stiff, when I was starting out. Got a few lectures about taking too long with them.
Then my boss at the time showed me how he always did it. His joints were almost locked up, when he finished assembling them, but after a few seconds working them, they self centred and with a smug wink, he put it back under the car, in not much longer than I was taking to dismantle them.
Lesson learned.
Hi Ray, i have always used just the vice with a larger socket & a nut to both remove & refit the u/j's
Yepper...that's exactly the way I was taught to do it. Doesn't mean Ray was "wrong"...just a different method.
A socket that is an 1/8 or 1/16 narrower does wonders
We used hardened metal balls from other car parts. I was changing them at my first job 6 years before that truck was made.
Ray, don’t let the comments get to you. What you did worked and everyone has there way of doing this. I read a lot of the comments and most are different on how they would have done it. So they can’t even agree on a way. You did great! Keep up the awesome job
Oh this is worse than welding on camera 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Too bad I didn’t have my c clamp press it goes so much smoother with the tool🤷♂️
@@RainmanRaysRepairs Hahaha. Everyone is an expert on TH-cam! I personally have learned from your channel so much and became much more comfortable working on my car. You saved me thousands already.
Do you know I am an expert on TH-cam. I make expert decisions not to do this type of work and i leave it to the experts
@@RainmanRaysRepairs
Just came to mind, you could always over pack the cups with grease pull the zert that way the needle berrings cant move then press the cap on, the shit load lump of grease will plow out the zerts hole and the other sides. Each cups done this way the needel berrings will stay put where they belong when all the caps are on and the snap rings in place you put the zert fitting back in.
Thats what you did without packing the caps full first.
From somthing ive read you shouldn't mix grease types and you do not know what the last kind was.
One grease type can cause the other to harden or go bad make it break down faster.
I dont know if this is right. Its just something I've read, but when I hand pack berrings I like to push out all the old grease for fresh grease or the type im using.
Hey Ray, get a cheap Arbor Press from Harbor Freight. When you do the pressing in a vertical plane, you seldom have issues with the needle bearings dropping out.. You can also use the Arbor press and a socket smaller than the bearing cap to bear on the circlip to senter the u joint in the yoke after you assemble it.
He already has one. He's used it in previous videos. Maybe he was just trying to show alternate methods. But I agree, using the arbor press would have been quicker and easier.
@@larrysherman5254 Hi, Tiger Tool U joint tool, the flat rate Techs friend.
Blue "Flat Rate" Mule
@@bluemule3891where did you get yours? I’ve never heard of that. I’ve sold auto and truck parts for 30yrs.
I've almost always used a ball peen hammer to strike the yoke casting between the shaft and the uni.
Usually a short authoritative whack is all it takes but you have to strike all four to release the tension.
I'm sure this is fairly old school. Gramps used to do that when we replaced the universal joints on PTO shafts on the Silo loaders, mower, silage chopper, forage wagons, feeder wagon, lagoon pump, and liquid manure spreaders.
A short 1-2 sec burst from a small air hammer with a small diameter flat bit in the same place you'd strike them will free them up too.
There are a bunch of different ways to do it and it's interesting to see how other people handle it.
When using a bench vise for pressing, always use the center of the jaws directly over the centerline boss of the vise. My advise is from 50 years of experience as a tool maker in a machine shop, only trying to be helpful
I think he was limited by the shaft hitting the lip of the other end of the bench.
It most certainly is a rerun-- but i like watching Ray work so much, I'll watch it twice.
I have done that so many times in the past, it’s the one thing on cars/trucks that never change
I use to use WD40 then tap it with a hammer. The install is to put extra grease in the caps then the needles don't move. I use a socket and tap with a hammer. U joints are more finesse than brute force. I was always fearful to loose a needle. Just FYI I do enjoy watching someone else doing the work.
I have a really good shop in my town that does this work and are quick so I take this kind of press work to them. I know that this is becoming a rarity anymore so I do feel fortunate in this availability.
It's nice to see the process of changing the u-joints it has been many years since doing this it has brought back memories. Those needles falling down happened to me many times.
Me too. Too hasty. Eejit.
Only did it once though.
Ray , I wonder how many of us older folks are saying we removed the u-joint cups with a large punch and a ball peen hammer .
Took mine to a shop who had a lot of trouble getting them out even with a large arbor press. Good thing I didn't even give it a try ! 1967 Haa.
Yes, and we use to overhaul a Engine with a Sears Socket Set and a Set of Box End Wrenches but this was back in the Roaring 60's...
@@randybeard6040 There's a lot of truth there . And every bolt was 1/2" or 9/16" .
34:12 years ago as a teenager I changed my u joints laying under the car with just a hammer screwdriver and plyers I gain deep respect for them dam needel berrings really fast, they kept falling out. It was the biggest pain in the ass.
It was up on a jack no jacket stands
Just the wheels placed under the frame incase the car fell down, it was on an older car using a bumper jack. Now I look back im lucky to be alive. Ive pulled transmission like that too. No transmission jack, just drop it on a rim and slide it out.
Have a good rest of your day @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Watching you do this U-Joint job is really bringing back memories. Yes I had to redo U-Joint installations because of the dreaded Needle Bearing slips.
You do a multi-part video right! We don't have to wait a week. You film and edit both at once and upload both at the same time! Good job!
I appreciate your honesty and if make a mistake you own it and then you show how to overcome the mistake thank you 🙏 when I was younger I put my own u joints I use a hammer and a socket to hammer out the joint but 45 yrs ago 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
That's a very different way for doing uni joints to what I was taught at trade school. We would just rest yoke on vice and belt it
People don’t like it when I say they can’t borrow my tools. This video demonstrates why I don’t let people borrow my tools!
the nice thing about the comments on a video like this is you learn how different people do it. unless they are insulting, it's a plus.
That old truck is in good shape. People are putting a few bucks in these old trucks to keep them going. They are not going to pay 60k - 80k for a new one. Who needs to let go of the wheel so they can clap to we are the champions? Good Heavens
I gotta say, that was painful to watch. No pullers necessary and no smacking the cap and locks to adjust tension…you know better. In any event, you got it done and some ppl learned the pros and cons of u-joint replacement 👍
It was very strange seeing how he apparently follows SMA that he hasn't seen how Eric does many of these with no trouble.
Ray, thanks to you i now know about u joints in great detail! one can’t afford to get it wrong or will backfire & fail. not an easy job even with optimal tools what with “fall-apart” needle bearing plus all the final micro adjustments. glad it’s you, not me.
I knew a guy who replaced the rear uni on his car and then complained of a rhythmic knock. He asked me to take a look at it after 2 weeks and said he'd bring it around on the weekend. He lived about 3 hours drive away (which isn't a lot when you live in Queensland). So he drove it to my house with his family on board! I thought he was briging it on a trailer. Once we got it off the ground I had a look and found he'd put the new uni in 90 degrees out (it was a design where they were slightly longer than they are wide, but noticable). When we got the caps out they disintegrated in my hand into chunks from heat stress. The needle bearings had all vaporised and the stubs of the uni were worn down to cone-shaped ends! He had said that he wasn't keen on going over 80kph (50mph) on the highway and I'm not surprised!
Apart from the fact he didn't kill his family on the road, what scared me the most was that this guy was a senior field tech for a major road-side service company. As far as I know, he's still out there 'fixing' breakdowns.
I had a 96 f 150 straight 6 and 5 speed. Short box. Great little truck. Total base model. Easy on the wallet.
Rerun or not, it is still worth watching you do your thing Ray.
I watched an old neighbour do the uni's on his tractor. He always sticks his crosses in the lathe and puts a small slightly round taper on the ends. It stops the needles from collapsing and holds a ridge of grease. Swears by the method.
Use a smaller socket to press u-joint cap in Ray. Old caps get stuck.
I also take parts from kits I ordered and then return the kit claiming that a part was missing from it. Works every time.
Ray, slide the propellor shaft back so the eyes of the yoke sit on the vice jaws, then take and hold the short section and then just hit the upright yoke with a 2ib hammer. Repeat on the opposite side, yokes out in no time. I did this hundreds of times on ujs without failures.
Hey Ray, I've seen you overhaul an engine quicker than it took to get that u joint in. Don't fret as it's taken me 2 to 3 times longer on some of my u joint jobs over the years. Good thing I was doing it for myself or I would have gone Broke if I was doing it for a living. Keep up the good work and love your and the Misses Videos.
Definitely a 90 minute guy. Good format Ray for pleasing everyone. Way to go.
Ray, I so appreciate this video. I haven't done one for years but I never had the chance to do one in a shop so it was good to know that they can be a pain even in a shop. So many times I messed up those needle bearings.
That would be a really good time to do the pan gasket as you cannot get it out with the trans in place, unless you unbolt the motor mounts and intake and jack engine up
I hope you do a part 2 on this
As an apprentice I was taught to use a vice and various sized sockets to change universal joints, always worked for me.
Ray, the next time that you’re having such a difficult time getting the u- joint cup retainer clips out, try some diagonal cutters. They bite into the clips “just enough” to be able to get the clips to spin in the shaft recess and then they come right out. Experience is your best teacher. 😊
Pro Tip for installing U-Joint Caps ..... fill each Cap half full of grease to hold the Needle Bearings in their Cap.
Oh man noooo don't beat on the Caps With a hammer Just hit the Yoke In a couple spots to relax The u joint 25:15 😳 😮 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I love it when you do these 2 part videos like this.
Yep, rear main, whether it needs it or not, prevents comebacks. I have a long 33" extension, 1/2 drive to locking 3/8 drive, makes trans bolts much easier to get to. Also checkout Tiger Tools U joint puller, it will cut your ujoint time in half, I have been using it for over 10 years and it is great. Looks like the customer rides the clutch, so you may want to talk to them about their driving habits. Anyway Good work today,
Blue Mule
Great mechanical application using that vice to seat those bearings Ray....GREAT job!
Thanks for the continuance.
Yes, the longer videos are great.
More STEAM!
Thank Ray
I feel your pain, from 39 years ago. I am a licensed plumber and an industrial mechanic. My first truck I bought was a 62 Ford Unibody (sitting in a barn for 18 years}. Trying to "bring it back to life" and repair the drive train of that thing, taught me to buy more tools, learn patience and I hated replacing U-joints.
I remember doing U joints in my car over 50 years ago but I was in a parking lot of my apartment building with just hand tools and I didn't struggle half what you did ray. I didn't even have advice to use
High vacuum grease is a huge help in keeping those needles in place. It will get displaced when you pressure grease it.
Sweet Part 2 OH yeah 0:11 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Finally seen Rainman struggle....He is human!!
wow~ great precision work! U r the best! No mistakes....
Liked part two you do what you have to so the TH-cam gods don't get mad at you
I ALWAYS put a glob of grease in the cup to help prevent the roller pins from falling into the cup. I also put penetrating oil on the old cups to help them slide out to prevent excessive pressure on the shaft/yoke ears.
I've done the very same thing before Ray. It's all good.
In the street,I removed all the clips,take a socket slightly smaller than bearing cap,tap U-joint all the way over,cap on other side would fall out,then knock the other way other would fall out.same on yoke.use same socket & big C clamp to press in.
Ray so good with these videos he gets more done with one hand than some people with two. Anyway he works hard. Nice video. Have a Great day Ray
Like your videos that finish the task in hand
Best motor ever made period ,mine still runs good with hardly any oil pressure. 2 lbs hot idle maybe, 15lbs at 3k RPM. been that way for years lol
I enjoy watching technicians struggling with universal joints.
I have always used a couple of sockets to do U joints...along with a vice of course. It is scary doing that fourth cap on the front as if it gets buggered up or otherwise isn't right back apart it comes. I also leave the zerk fitting out until after its assembled so it will allow air to push out as caps go on. Rusty truck U joints are a royal PITA...at least you didn't have to use heat to get them to move and the clips came out in one piece. It's such fun digging clip remnants out of the slot to pull it apart.
A great video as always Ray:-)
Yoicks, what a crunchy Ford. The driver's door may need hinge pins. Replacing this U-Joint brought back memories. Whether going into a Ford, GM, Chrysler, etc., needle bearings do not care. They'll slip out of place. I admire your patience. Good job. 😉👍🏼
I wish I had a mechanic like you in my area !
GOOD MORNING RAY AND THE WIFE UNIT! Along with the two new employees in which the garage wouldn’t run so smoothly! What a rusty truck! I’m surprised it has come apart as easily as it has! Roger in Pierre South Dakota
Rusty??? Eric O would have already used the smoke wrench 2 or 3 times and cursed Ray just as many times. 😊
Use shaffer 238 grease n to remove ujoints i always use a big c clamp n impact sockets ...easy..
Try using a lubricant when installing ujoint caps works great used this method for years never dropped a drive line
My dad always bought two U joints when he did them…. Better to take one back then forced to make a drive back to parts store. And he always used way more grease in the caps to hold the needles. But of course always a tedious job that was one tiny bearing away from disaster everytime lol glad I haven’t had to do one in a very long time!
Pro tip. Instead of the old cap, use a socket with a smaller outside diameter of the cap when pressing in or out. Ditto on removal except on the opposite side use a socket with the INSIDE diameter slightly Larger than the OD of the bearing cap. No Tugging on the U joint ears, Just pure pressure from the vise.
U got love Rays work ethic get it done 👍
thankyou Ray,,you got there in the end,,it certainly made excellent content,,👍👍
I watch you on a daily basis, thanks Ray and i'm learning something each day. Good job and keep doing it this way. Troy is lucky to work with you and i will become a master Tech.
The old school way of doing u joint replacements is so much easier than the way you are doing it. I get there is about a million different ways to do it. Main thing is it gets done. I’m bring so many memories of doing this and I catch my self yelling at you telling you 😂 you are doing it the hard way. Lol
I used a large c-clamp instead of a vise once. Worked fine.
It's been a handful of decades since I did something like that, however I used to use regular grease to hold the needle bearing in place as it is stickier than the lube that is shipped with. Also a small socket will drive the caps on and off with a few gentle taps of a hammer. The vice works but is really cumbersome. Always enjoy your vids. Keep'em coming!
I did the same thing with a U-joint! Now I don't feel so bad! 😊
That otc puller kit is doing amazing on Removing these U joint caps 😮 🤔 never used a ball joint puller on a u joint that's impressive they held up to that Stress 11:03 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Thanks for the video split.
NEVER lend out tools!
Pack the needles with grease. Use a smaller than the cap socket. Works every time.
Way to persevere through the difficulties. Adapt and overcome.
and i am watching this one as well thank you Ray
Good lesson on the u joint.
Back in the day, we never used a puller on u joints. We spaced them in the vice and beat them out with a hammer
Oh wow Ray, I love the extended footage awesome👍👍👍
Ray that clutch pack is awesome. That is totally wore out. Can not believe that made it to your shop.
This was a pain as I couldnt access the link in the comments on my normal watching preference on my Fire TV. Thank you for posting it though, just had to do a work around :)
Hey Ray and the rest of the Rainman crew, Ray use a socket to press your u joint caps in as you can use one that bind up on the holes for the caps
Oil pan gasket is a hell of a lot easier to do with trans out. When they were on the road more the pans in the north rusted through alot.
Oh I remember those days! 73 dodge charger 400 CID. I used to mess up u joints at least 1 time a year.
Ooh, Spicer u-joints...pretty sure those are the ones Eric O. mentioned are far and away the best you can get but they're not readily available in his area
They are the best!
Eric O be like…..👀
Hey Ray, that was a particularly dirty and challenging job. I reLly enjoyed watching you do it without the correct tools butyou made it work. Cheers!
27:00 I have used a 1/2 nut on both sides to press the caps in. Done right, about half the time for me, you could see the groove for the clip put that one in and then press the other side until you are set. Hammer impacts on bearings causes brinelling, bearing fails sooner than design.
Ray, you have a hydrolic press. Best thing to press wheel bearing out. I had to use the vice myself. I only usually remove one cap and just press that one on with the keeper already installed on the side with the cap. Then center the bearing between the 2 while pressing the orher side into the yoke. Its much eaaier to keep thise damn needle bearings from falling out.
The oil pan gasket can be done with the trans in, but it's sooooo much easier with it out. I'd try really hard to sell it now.
@39junker had the hot tip. Grease those caps to prevent dropped needle bearings an pre-lube the yoke at the same time.
I am now officially glad I never attempted replacing U Joints. I didn't know anyone who'd done it, and Motors Manual didn't really cover what to do without a press.
No matter what you do I always see people complaining. Keep doing what you do Ray 🙂🙂
Great job Ray.