Hi Ray, On some jobs when using the old race to press in the new one it can jam and cause trouble getting it back out. We cut the old race with the angle grinder right through so effectively making it a little less rigid in diameter and so it will tap out easy where normally it might jam tight again. This doesn't hurt using it to press the new one in as the stiffness of the old race maintains it's shape but it sure comes out easier. I am in the UK and am a retired mechanic.
I have ground down the 'old' item on the grinder so that it slips easily. Then used to press the new outer race. I KEEP that old race for future use as I have done for my Trailer Wheel Bearings.
The other trick is to put the new race in the freezer and get it as cold as possible. At the same time, warm the other part, With any luck the new race will just fall right in.
Misc suggestion. I changed my hydraulic press to add wheels like you did, but i also added in a wooden platform across the bottom. Now i have a place to store all the accessories you need for the press, plus i can store heavy things i do not use often. Super convenient when you are space limited and your press tools and widgets are right at hand when you need them.
As the official bearing aficionado of this channel. He is replacing what is called a Hub 1 bearing. The darker side is a magnetic seal that the wheel speed sensor reads. The other side is a regular seal. Just in case you didn't know.
Run a bead of weld around the inside of the old bearing. As it cools, it will shrink and literally fall out. The now shrunk bearing can be used to press in the new one.
This is the go-to reply. This is the only method that will reliably 100% of the time drop that race out of that hub. I learned this as an apprentice in the shipyard back in the early 80s.
Wish I knew this trick couple years back I had a ford focus these bearings are a nightmare same deal I did it the same Ray did. He didn't get to take off the inner race though I cut them at an angle with a cutoff wheel then bust it on the cut because you can't cut it all the way you will cut into the hub. I will never buy another car with these type bearings they are always going bad. aftermarket bearing are a joke on you they are ball bearings instead of needle bearing like oem.
Fyi... If you have a truck ball joint removal kit... Use the rings from that kit as your base shim to press into or press the new parts in... OR... Go to your local hardware store and get a set of different size black pipe couplings up to 6" dia meters... ALSO... Wack the piece with a hammer when you have all the pressure from the press on the part... The vibration will make sure the part is seated and that is not "window locked" or "stuck" on some rust or metal blurbs...
Hey Ray! You should weld a flat tip screw driver in an 11 o'clock position to the pressure relief bolt in the closed position on your press. It would give you a grab handle to open and closed the valve and put the wrench away.
Thank you to whom ever gifted me the sub to the channel, I have been watching Ray for a couple years now and enjoy the work, as a tech of over 30 years myself I see alot of what I would do in them and I also laugh at the mistakes and yes i yell at me screen when he misses something, lol
I recommend cutting a slit with a cutting blade for a grinder on your bottle jack handle so you can used it every time you need it to open & closed or released & tight bottle jack screw also a little oil or lubricants when installing bearings;boll joint.etc.etc.
Continue I also I made a bottle jack handle with a half inch galvanized pipe or black pipe with a 1/2 inch tee and you can add 6 or 8 in. For leverage can make it longer if nedded
Thanks for the surprise video. You usually post in your morning which is my evening, I was pleasantly surprised to see a new video this morning. Hoping there will also be a new one at the usual time this evening.
(New Channel Member) Thank You to Whomever Gifted Channel Memberships ! Ray is one Heck of a Mechanic & Answered quite a few questions I've had on Newer Vehicles thru His Videos !! I can get Anything with a Carb & Points to Run But the newer stuff with computers i'm lost.. So Thank You Ray & The Member that Gifted Memberships, Live Free Or Die, From PEW HAMPSHIRE !!!
I don't know why, but everytime I have a project coming up, you release videos that help me immensely with my research. I've been dreading a front end suspension rebuild on my Honda Accord, but right after I ordered my parts, you dropped all this front end rebuild material with the mustangs and this one! Not exactly the car I'm working on, but concepts are the same, and you've helped me not feel so out of my league. Through my daily dose of Ray, I havent even had to do much actual searching for helpful info. Thank you for having the BEST timing for my education needs!
@@xbahamutzero thanks for the tip. Luckily, it's a 1995, but the only things that I'm not replacing are the spindles and shocks. The SO managed to snap or bend almost everything else by spinning out and slamming into a snow bank right after our first snow last winter.
I went to a scrap yard and picked up various diameters of black pipe for these jobs, much easier and equalizes the pressures,, ten to fifteen inches long, had to machine a couple to size, stack them inside of each other, for storage.
Easy peasy press work is always nice Ray I had to press in bushing on lower control arms for a 2005 chevy 2500Hd With the 6.6L duramax last week froze the bushings and some Red bearing grease they went in but with a fight. So easy press work is always great @Rainman Ray's Repairs
The engineering tolerances needed to make parts that mate like that is mind blowing, but there you are in a garage with a leaky press do de do no problem.
That's a great point to emphasize how important that axle nut is, even in newer style bearings that come together with the hub. People get a false sense of security when they bolt an inclusive unit on, not understanding how easily the bearing itself can break apart. The snap ring holds the outer race in place, and corrosion holds the hub inside the inner race. The weakness is in the sheet metal cage that holds the inner bits together with the outer. The only thing keeping that inner race, hub, and wheel in place after the sheet metal fails is the axle nut.
if you dont have a press but you have welder you can clean the grease of the bearing race run two beads of weld around the raised part in the center of race, one on either side and they just about fall out
Last wheel bearing change I did I got bearing/spindle pre assembled with new parts price point was just a little higher but labor cost and reliability made it a WIN!
If I were still working I'd be putting wheels on the shop press first thing. I was always bothered by that small pressure release on the bottle jack. I took it out and welded a larger tee handle on it. No need to search for pliers anymore.
My little Peugeot has the same bearing and magnetic ring set up, though thankfully you can just about get a spacer to hook up on the outer race if it does fall apart. The only issue is the part is an odd shape and doesn’t lie flat, thanks Peugeot PSA for that design.
I’m repacking hub and bearings while I’m replacing tie rods and ball joints on my ‘95 302 f150. I stupidly punctured not one but TWO! Moog upper ball joint dust boots. Currently waiting on new dust boots. 🙃
I have that same press on the end of your handle it has a notch to operate the valve to open and close it if not a quick grinder across the end will make the perfect notch. Appreciate all your videos always great info
If you had a large cone from the ball joint set, you could lube the inside and use it as a compressor on the bijezuz ring. Or, you could have used a heavy duty screw type hose clamp (or even a piston ring compressor) to squeeze it down to go in the hole.
get a good 20 ton air over hydraulic jack for your press and it will be faster. i replaced my press jack and i just use air to bring it into place and then pump the jack to do the work.
On your press, you notice a cross-bar angle iron between the base legs. Sooner or later, it will happen that you stick an axle into this press, and find that the end of the axle contacts this cross bar... so consider, some day, when you have "nothing else to do", relocate the cross bar about 3" off center, and add another, matching angle, on other side, about same offset from center, and this will provide you the little additional height you need.. plus, having your press on wheels, this new gap, between the spreaders, will allow use of the added wheel height. Does your press cylinder handle not have a pair of slots to operate the bottle valve? If not (handle was replaced with iron pipe, for instance), just grind a pair of slots into handle end to match the valve ears. Keep the old bearing race, of course, in your new press tool box, and, as mentioned below, slice a narrow slot into the race to allow diameter to reduce slightly in bearing bores that don't have relief diameters. Something I have noticed in new bearings is that the mfgr provides very little grease, so I usually use a seal pick to pop off the bearing seal plastic ring, pack the thing completely with real, new, fresh grease, then replace the seal... it just snaps in or out... no biggie, but will definitely extend the service life of the bearing. Oh yeah, cleaning the dirty bearing bore in knuckle with Scotchbrite, then applying a mere wipe of grease, will aid bearing pressing. And when removing and installing, once pressure begins to increase, a minimal jar on the press ram (or table, or part, or arbor) will often immediately get the pressure point moving. Use a hard mallet, not steel, to bump the thing.
Always try to use the least amount of spacers when pressing a bearing in or out. Get them set wrong and they will slip out, sometimes at great velocity across the shop!
Howdy Ray! Get a 4x4" sheet of "Magnetic Field Viewing Film" to see where the magnetic fields are. They're very handy if you're working w/bearings, electric coils, Hall effect triggers, etc...
Hydraulic presses are great. A lot of damage to bearings can be done by pressing the outer race in using a hammer on the inner race. But you know that.
The cheap Chinese 20 ton jack on my press leaked like a sieve too. I bought an old 20 ton American made jack at the swap meet for $20. Did a ton of pressing and never had a leak again.
Decent hydraulic jacks are remarkably cheap even new. I'm always amazed that they don't cost more as they are precision ground and have to be made of a decent quality steel.
It’s risky but.. if you dab a tiny blast with a stick weld at high amps opposite each other, it will shrink.. I used to remove bronze bushings in the shipyard using this method..
Hello Ray, it looks like there is a hurricane headed your way mid to late this week. It looks like it may slightly to your north and come in closer to Tampa and going thru Jacksonville, with you just getting a bit less wind and rain. the beaches may get a bit rough, but the surfers will like it. I couldn't send this in chat, maybe it was to many letters.
No car on a lift, just the parts to be replaced the bearings. I remember you chopper a nice size of that bar down to press out a bearing many video's ago.
To people doing press in bearings. Pressing the new bearing in with the old bearing is always pretty risky. If you manage to wedge it there half ways, it's gonna be a real nightmare to remove. Ray was pretty lucky here. On some older cars the machining is tight all the way, but many new cars tend to make the bearing fit loosely at the beginning as seen on this video.
Hey Ray - doesn’t the Jack handle for your hydraulic press have a provision (squeezed down on end) to open and close the valve so you don’t have to keep grabbing the pliers?
What I meant is from mechanical prerspective that the seal supose to be on the bottom ,and ABS sensor should be on the bottom as well. In Hunday its aperently on top therefore you put it in there to be close to sensor , which is OK for ABS signals but mechanicaly wrong unlrss there is a separate seal behind.
Eh, sometimes you have to at least try to move your learning journey forward. The key is in the humility to know when you've exceeded your skills and/or tools and can ask for help.
@0:27... yeah, just did my wife's Nissan Kicks, uses a pressed in bearing system just like that. Took twice as long as a normal unit bearing with the hub. When you pull/press them apart the inner race stays on the hub (which they sell separately from the bearing for $100 each!) you need to break the bearing and cut off (scribe half way through and crack it off with a cold chisel) the inner race. Then you press everything back together. The first set failed after only 50k miles, and they failed at exactly the same time. Yeah, suckes - probably will need to do it again every 50K! Also, generally there is NOT a magnet inside t he bearing (would be a really bad thing to have inside a bearing... the sensor simply sees the inductive signal change every time a bearing passes by the sensor which does have a magnet inside it (bearing-pass frequency is picked up, which does NOT match the RPM speed, but it is proportional obviously). This is why it is important to put the plastic-shielded side of the bearing toward the sensor when you press it in.
Hey Ray! Those Milwaukee Rocket Lights are susceptible to Low Voltage damage. Make syre you always use a Fully Charged Battery as letting it Run down while turned on will burn a trace on the printed circuit board.
Like a good neighbor Rayman is there!!
extra $ for him, needs car for work Monday.
Hi Ray, On some jobs when using the old race to press in the new one it can jam and cause trouble getting it back out. We cut the old race with the angle grinder right through so effectively making it a little less rigid in diameter and so it will tap out easy where normally it might jam tight again. This doesn't hurt using it to press the new one in as the stiffness of the old race maintains it's shape but it sure comes out easier. I am in the UK and am a retired mechanic.
I have ground down the 'old' item on the grinder so that it slips easily. Then used to press the new outer race. I KEEP that old race for future use as I have done for my Trailer Wheel Bearings.
I was going to say that. Same here in the US.
The other trick is to put the new race in the freezer and get it as cold as possible. At the same time, warm the other part, With any luck the new race will just fall right in.
Ditto.
Misc suggestion.
I changed my hydraulic press to add wheels like you did, but i also added in a wooden platform across the bottom. Now i have a place to store all the accessories you need for the press, plus i can store heavy things i do not use often. Super convenient when you are space limited and your press tools and widgets are right at hand when you need them.
As the official bearing aficionado of this channel. He is replacing what is called a Hub 1 bearing. The darker side is a magnetic seal that the wheel speed sensor reads. The other side is a regular seal. Just in case you didn't know.
Run a bead of weld around the inside of the old bearing. As it cools, it will shrink and literally fall out.
The now shrunk bearing can be used to press in the new one.
This is the go-to reply. This is the only method that will reliably 100% of the time drop that race out of that hub. I learned this as an apprentice in the shipyard back in the early 80s.
Wish I knew this trick couple years back I had a ford focus these bearings are a nightmare same deal I did it the same Ray did. He didn't get to take off the inner race though I cut them at an angle with a cutoff wheel then bust it on the cut because you can't cut it all the way you will cut into the hub. I will never buy another car with these type bearings they are always going bad. aftermarket bearing are a joke on you they are ball bearings instead of needle bearing like oem.
Hope Ray sees this cause it will save him a load of work on any internal bearing.
Have always removed bearings this way, as well as exhaust valve seats on large diesel cylinder heads, works every time.
Fyi... If you have a truck ball joint removal kit... Use the rings from that kit as your base shim to press into or press the new parts in... OR... Go to your local hardware store and get a set of different size black pipe couplings up to 6" dia meters... ALSO... Wack the piece with a hammer when you have all the pressure from the press on the part... The vibration will make sure the part is seated and that is not "window locked" or "stuck" on some rust or metal blurbs...
Hey Ray! You should weld a flat tip screw driver in an 11 o'clock position to the pressure relief bolt in the closed position on your press. It would give you a grab handle to open and closed the valve and put the wrench away.
I waited until now to have my second cup of coffee.
Just goes better with Ray’s video.
Thank you to whom ever gifted me the sub to the channel, I have been watching Ray for a couple years now and enjoy the work, as a tech of over 30 years myself I see alot of what I would do in them and I also laugh at the mistakes and yes i yell at me screen when he misses something, lol
RAY IS THE MAN WITH THE PLAN. BE SAFE AND GREAT JOB.
The non plan, plan
I recommend cutting a slit with a cutting blade for a grinder on your bottle jack handle so you can used it every time you need it to open & closed or released & tight bottle jack screw also a little oil or lubricants when installing bearings;boll joint.etc.etc.
I have gotten my daily R.R.R. fix. I may proceed with my day.
Continue I also I made a bottle jack handle with a half inch galvanized pipe or black pipe with a 1/2 inch tee and you can add 6 or 8 in. For leverage can make it longer if nedded
Thanks for the surprise video. You usually post in your morning which is my evening, I was pleasantly surprised to see a new video this morning. Hoping there will also be a new one at the usual time this evening.
(New Channel Member) Thank You to Whomever Gifted Channel Memberships !
Ray is one Heck of a Mechanic & Answered quite a few questions I've had on Newer Vehicles thru His Videos !!
I can get Anything with a Carb & Points to Run But the newer stuff with computers i'm lost..
So Thank You Ray & The Member that Gifted Memberships,
Live Free Or Die, From PEW HAMPSHIRE !!!
I like to weld a bead around the inside of the race. When the weld cools it shrinks the race a tiny bit and make removal significantly easier.
I don't know why, but everytime I have a project coming up, you release videos that help me immensely with my research. I've been dreading a front end suspension rebuild on my Honda Accord, but right after I ordered my parts, you dropped all this front end rebuild material with the mustangs and this one! Not exactly the car I'm working on, but concepts are the same, and you've helped me not feel so out of my league. Through my daily dose of Ray, I havent even had to do much actual searching for helpful info. Thank you for having the BEST timing for my education needs!
@@xbahamutzero thanks for the tip. Luckily, it's a 1995, but the only things that I'm not replacing are the spindles and shocks. The SO managed to snap or bend almost everything else by spinning out and slamming into a snow bank right after our first snow last winter.
I have that exact press. Works great and takes up little room. Always pressing stuff out on my Cherokee XJ…thank for the video Ray!☀️
Ray needs to get a two-sided honing stone to remove those high spots. They are about 1x 2×6 inch long, one coarse side and one fine side.
I went to a scrap yard and picked up various diameters of black pipe for these jobs, much easier and equalizes the pressures,, ten to fifteen inches long, had to machine a couple to size, stack them inside of each other, for storage.
Wish my Supervisor would see the value in a small shop press like that.... Nicely done Ray👊
You can also put the parts in the freezer or dry ice to make everything go together easier.
Easy peasy press work is always nice Ray I had to press in bushing on lower control arms for a 2005 chevy 2500Hd With the 6.6L duramax last week froze the bushings and some Red bearing grease they went in but with a fight. So easy press work is always great @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Happy Sunday Ray. Another great video.
The engineering tolerances needed to make parts that mate like that is mind blowing, but there you are in a garage with a leaky press do de do no problem.
Pays dividends to help your neighbor and we enjoyed the video also. Thanks . Your shop is looking great!
That's a great point to emphasize how important that axle nut is, even in newer style bearings that come together with the hub. People get a false sense of security when they bolt an inclusive unit on, not understanding how easily the bearing itself can break apart. The snap ring holds the outer race in place, and corrosion holds the hub inside the inner race. The weakness is in the sheet metal cage that holds the inner bits together with the outer. The only thing keeping that inner race, hub, and wheel in place after the sheet metal fails is the axle nut.
NO CHARGE ALSO.
if you dont have a press but you have welder you can clean the grease of the bearing race run two beads of weld around the raised part in the center of race, one on either side and they just about fall out
If you don't have a press but you have a welder, you can make a press
@@waldolemmerbottle jack and some box-sections with a couple strong springs, jobs a good'en
Just what I was thinking I have seen to meny bearing carriers broken with the press
There are some jobs the right tool and know how make easy. WELL DONE
And like a good neighbor, Rainman is there!
Thanks Ray, you solved quickly such a pressing matter.
Last wheel bearing change I did I got bearing/spindle pre assembled with new parts price point was just a little higher but labor cost and reliability made it a WIN!
I feel for ya brother. I've been to Tampa myself, pretty much the same. Hang tough!
Well now I was imPRESSED with this video.
The most effective way of removing the inner race is to apply a solid arc weld around the inner circumference.
Nice simple job Ray. Probably done at 50 of these. Sometime they don't want to come apart!
I'm glad you got the press back
Nothing like door to door service. And knowing Ray, he just did a favor for a next door neighbor and didn’t ask for payment.
If I were still working I'd be putting wheels on the shop press first thing. I was always bothered by that small pressure release on the bottle jack. I took it out and welded a larger tee handle on it. No need to search for pliers anymore.
P.S. I'm not saying you don't know what you're doing I think you're an very outstanding mechanic. Keep up the great videos.
A nice, short video. Hope the storm doesn't hit your area. At lease you a prepared with the upgrades to the Dirtymax.
Yes,Sunday bonus video 🎉
nice that they engraved it for the sensor side, even nicer you put it in right the 1st time ;)
Awesome to see the business has a 5 star rating ⭐️ keep up the excellent work ray your killin it 💪🏻
My little Peugeot has the same bearing and magnetic ring set up, though thankfully you can just about get a spacer to hook up on the outer race if it does fall apart. The only issue is the part is an odd shape and doesn’t lie flat, thanks Peugeot PSA for that design.
I’m repacking hub and bearings while I’m replacing tie rods and ball joints on my ‘95 302 f150. I stupidly punctured not one but TWO! Moog upper ball joint dust boots. Currently waiting on new dust boots. 🙃
You could have also taken the welder and laid a bead on the old race and it should shrink enough that it could just be tapped out.
Exactly what I was going to say. Life hacks. :)
I’ve done a few never thought of this like a solid line?
I hope you will be safe with the hurricane going over Florida
I have that same press on the end of your handle it has a notch to operate the valve to open and close it if not a quick grinder across the end will make the perfect notch.
Appreciate all your videos always great info
I don’t have the notched handle, I need to cut the one that I have to fit the valve
Usually the jack handle has a groove in one end to tighten/loosen the release valve. If not, you should be able to easily add a groove.
If you had a large cone from the ball joint set, you could lube the inside and use it as a compressor on the bijezuz ring. Or, you could have used a heavy duty screw type hose clamp (or even a piston ring compressor) to squeeze it down to go in the hole.
get a good 20 ton air over hydraulic jack for your press and it will be faster. i replaced my press jack and i just use air to bring it into place and then pump the jack to do the work.
On your press, you notice a cross-bar angle iron between the base legs. Sooner or later, it will happen that you stick an axle into this press, and find that the end of the axle contacts this cross bar... so consider, some day, when you have "nothing else to do", relocate the cross bar about 3" off center, and add another, matching angle, on other side, about same offset from center, and this will provide you the little additional height you need.. plus, having your press on wheels, this new gap, between the spreaders, will allow use of the added wheel height. Does your press cylinder handle not have a pair of slots to operate the bottle valve? If not (handle was replaced with iron pipe, for instance), just grind a pair of slots into handle end to match the valve ears.
Keep the old bearing race, of course, in your new press tool box, and, as mentioned below, slice a narrow slot into the race to allow diameter to reduce slightly in bearing bores that don't have relief diameters.
Something I have noticed in new bearings is that the mfgr provides very little grease, so I usually use a seal pick to pop off the bearing seal plastic ring, pack the thing completely with real, new, fresh grease, then replace the seal... it just snaps in or out... no biggie, but will definitely extend the service life of the bearing.
Oh yeah, cleaning the dirty bearing bore in knuckle with Scotchbrite, then applying a mere wipe of grease, will aid bearing pressing. And when removing and installing, once pressure begins to increase, a minimal jar on the press ram (or table, or part, or arbor) will often immediately get the pressure point moving. Use a hard mallet, not steel, to bump the thing.
I do believe I might be right that this is Ray's first delivery after the repair.
If you grind a little off the outer race of the old bearing, they won't get stuck when pressing in new bearings.
I was not disappointed.!! The flying circlip made my day.!!!
Always try to use the least amount of spacers when pressing a bearing in or out. Get them set wrong and they will slip out, sometimes at great velocity across the shop!
I have same bearing press harborfreight saved my ass a million times I've done alot of ford bearings with that
I'm just curious, how is he going to get the lug nut studs in. It looks like the spindle covered the holes on the back side.
Howdy Ray! Get a 4x4" sheet of "Magnetic Field Viewing Film" to see where the magnetic fields are.
They're very handy if you're working w/bearings, electric coils, Hall effect triggers, etc...
Another outstanding video Ray your the best at what you do but the most important thing is to have your self a great day Ray
I love the sound that press makes when released 😂😂
Ok, your in my head again. I just ordered new front hubs for my Trans Am this morning.
Hydraulic presses are great. A lot of damage to bearings can be done by pressing the outer race in using a hammer on the inner race. But you know that.
At least this customer admitted they were the ones to ding stuff up, instead of the mysterious "Another Shop".
Putting things right for a neighbour and that’s why we love you Rainman!👍🙂
Of course I enjoyed the content and I will look forward to seeing you on Monday morning
LOL at "Hazard Fraught". I have shopped there many times, but I still refer to them as "Hazard Fraught Tools".
you are a good neighbor Ray, good job...
The cheap Chinese 20 ton jack on my press leaked like a sieve too. I bought an old 20 ton American made jack at the swap meet for $20. Did a ton of pressing and never had a leak again.
Decent hydraulic jacks are remarkably cheap even new. I'm always amazed that they don't cost more as they are precision ground and have to be made of a decent quality steel.
It’s risky but.. if you dab a tiny blast with a stick weld at high amps opposite each other, it will shrink..
I used to remove bronze bushings in the shipyard using this method..
Hello Ray, it looks like there is a hurricane headed your way mid to late this week. It looks like it may slightly to your north and come in closer to Tampa and going thru Jacksonville, with you just getting a bit less wind and rain. the beaches may get a bit rough, but the surfers will like it. I couldn't send this in chat, maybe it was to many letters.
Just checked NHC.NOAA and it looks like it will curve away north and then north east.
@@pprey6599 It very well could, however it is a hurricane, and it could hit 100 miles west or 1 mile away, it is still to early to be very definitive.
I've used a welder to get the race out when I didn't have a press.
Another pressing engagement successfully carried out by Ray.😁
👍🇺🇸😎
No car on a lift, just the parts to be replaced the bearings.
I remember you chopper a nice size of that bar down to press out a bearing many video's ago.
Thanks for the last explanation. I was wondering how that was going to stay together.
210th! GOOD SUNDAY EVENING RAY AND THE WIFE UNIT! And happy Sunday to the two new employees! Roger in Pierre South Dakota
To people doing press in bearings. Pressing the new bearing in with the old bearing is always pretty risky. If you manage to wedge it there half ways, it's gonna be a real nightmare to remove. Ray was pretty lucky here. On some older cars the machining is tight all the way, but many new cars tend to make the bearing fit loosely at the beginning as seen on this video.
You should heat the bearing with a heat lamp the bearing will drop on to the hub, Heat casting part in toaster oven bearing and hub will drop in.
Ray awesome job have a great day
I'm glad you are doing it again. I missed it the first time.
If your ever unsure which side is magnet ring use a metal paper clip to touch the side
Hey Ray - doesn’t the Jack handle for your hydraulic press have a provision (squeezed down on end) to open and close the valve so you don’t have to keep grabbing the pliers?
What I meant is from mechanical prerspective that the seal supose to be on the bottom ,and ABS sensor should be on the bottom as well. In Hunday its aperently on top therefore you put it in there to be close to sensor , which is OK for ABS signals but mechanicaly wrong unlrss there is a separate seal behind.
The air chisel should always be your first choice when working with mirrored finished surfaces.
I JUST RUN A WELD BEAD AROUND RACE...WORKS GREAT...SHRINKS THE RACE..COMES OUT EASY
Excellent addition to the press. Ray cut a notch in the jack handle so it fits the open/close value.
Great stuff Ray, they should have called you first and not hammer timed it!
Eh, sometimes you have to at least try to move your learning journey forward.
The key is in the humility to know when you've exceeded your skills and/or tools and can ask for help.
that’s an excuse to get more tools i think
Ray. Good luck on that hurricane coming your Way!!! Hope you're prepared.
he seems to be very prepared and contently evolving his preparedness
@0:27... yeah, just did my wife's Nissan Kicks, uses a pressed in bearing system just like that. Took twice as long as a normal unit bearing with the hub. When you pull/press them apart the inner race stays on the hub (which they sell separately from the bearing for $100 each!) you need to break the bearing and cut off (scribe half way through and crack it off with a cold chisel) the inner race. Then you press everything back together. The first set failed after only 50k miles, and they failed at exactly the same time. Yeah, suckes - probably will need to do it again every 50K! Also, generally there is NOT a magnet inside t he bearing (would be a really bad thing to have inside a bearing... the sensor simply sees the inductive signal change every time a bearing passes by the sensor which does have a magnet inside it (bearing-pass frequency is picked up, which does NOT match the RPM speed, but it is proportional obviously). This is why it is important to put the plastic-shielded side of the bearing toward the sensor when you press it in.
Hey Ray! Those Milwaukee Rocket Lights are susceptible to Low Voltage damage. Make syre you always use a Fully Charged Battery as letting it Run down while turned on will burn a trace on the printed circuit board.
I have two. I’ve let them go out on battery power a few times. Thanks for the warning!
🇦🇺private job as well
Nice to have the right tools
Great timing on getting the 2nd alternator on the dirty max. I hope the hurricane in the gulf misses you.
Eric-O just released a short how to remove the race stuck on the hub by heating it with a torch. It will expand and just drop off.
You have an amazing collection of tools.
"Where does he get such wonderful toys?" -- Jack Nicholson, "Batman," 1989😁
i enjoy the content. I put a set of handles on a couple of old strut rods for my press, easy to grab & move for height
Air hammers are the fastest way to remove the bearing race and not damage the hub, usually in a matter of seconds.
Ya know, if you've lost the original jack handle with the relief valve slot, you could just slot the handle you do have.
My buddy's shop he has a short T-tube made for it- turn to the left or right.
Cut that slot on BOTH ends! When I have 50/50 chance, 90% of the time I'm wrong!! 😱
Any length video from you is a good video, Ray. Be well and feel better soon.
looks like vw part had to do similar part and was a pain to setup in press.