Hi BTB. I replaced the K&N air filter with OEM and cleaned the MAF Sensor. It has solved the miss at 5200rpm and improved the top end revs 80 percent. I will change the plugs and replace the crankshaft pulley with the underdrive one I have purchased. Thanks for your advice. Cheers Des
+Desmond Sequerah Awesome! Glad you got your problem fixed. Must've been the computer getting confused about the air mass to fuel ratio. When mine broke it really stutters all over the place.
Hi BTB. I replaced the MAF sensor with a new one and it solved my problem. Car pulls great from around 2k rpm to redline with the plenum splitter I made and put in. The K&N filter had fouled the MAF sensor causing all the drama. I am happy with the plenum splitter which cost me a second hand plenum and 200mm of 90mm pvc storm water piping. I still have my original plenum to put back if it did not work. Looks like it will now stay in. The mid range torque was lacking in the standard 2.5.
Desmond Sequerah I had the same problem with the K&N filter killing my MAF. I said exactly that in this other video where I replaced the MAF: th-cam.com/video/gx3ia_ntIEg/w-d-xo.html Not too sure what you are talking about regarding the plenum. Are you saying you made your own higher diameter 'intake tube' that goes from the intake filter (200mm) and then somehow reduces down to 90mm at the throttle body?
BeatTheBush Hi BTB. The plenum splitter is in the T-piece after the throttle body. I fabricated a pvc piece to split the air going to the left and right banks so it flows faster to the banks.
Desmond Sequerah Is it somehow bigger in diameter? I would think the way to get it to flow easier is by widening the bottleneck area which looks to be the whole tube in front of the throttle body.
Hello Engineer, that is not a timing belt Lol I still like your video because I support all DIYers out there and I absolutely like your ethic and enthusiasm in your vids.
Oh no, you're only supposed to use the torque wrench to tighten things down to whatever the torque rating is If you use that torque wrench to undo really tight things like that drive pulley bolt or the lug bolts for your wheels, you can apparently throw the calibration for the mechanism in the wrench off and suddenly it won't click at 85 ft-lbs for something like when you're putting on your wheels but something much higher like 125 ft-lbs You can actually get a 24 inch breaker bar to undo tight bolts for like $20: www.amazon.ca/dp/B00VPPK0E0 And to make things even easier when undoing really stuck bolts you can put a steel pipe on the end of it and make an even longer breaker bar, something I wish I knew last year That wobble though, I feel like I should replace my belt and see if any pulleys are wobbling
Yeah I was worried about that as well but luckily, the drive pulley bolt wasn't stuck (didn't require excessive force) and I was well under the 250ft-lb limit at around 100-150 ft-lb when loosening it.
Opps, I meant the K&N filter as a precaution and not that it would be causing your power stall at 5k rpm. Generally I feel a slight loss of power (but not struggle to red line) towards the end of my oil change cycle at that rpm. It comes back after I change the oil and/or sparkplugs.
Well, the engines are very similar but I cannot say for sure since I've never worked on a 911 3.6l before. The method is pretty generic though, loosen bolt, put on new one, re-tighten. =D
Get a 24" "Breaker Bar" 1/2" drive, for loosening tight bolts, NEVER a torque wrench, they aren't made for that. Breaker bars are cheap too. ($20 or so). Nicely detailed video, I look forward to more.
Cheers for your reply. I also do not race mine but am trying to extract as much hp out of the 2.5. I really wanted the S but this was in such a good condition and yellow, the colour I was looking for so I bought it. So far I have installed headers, K&N air filter, my own version of the plenum splitter, soon to fit the underdrive pulley and also fitted 19" wheels recently. I did install a cat back stainless muffler but removed it as it droned at cruising speed. I replaced the OEM muffler and drilled 2x 10mm holes through the tail piece into the first chamber which in my opinion gave it a nicer exhaust note for free. Keep up the good work. Currently I am experiencing a flat spot at 5200rpm and it struggles to rev to red line from there. I don't think it is due to the plenum splitter as it was starting to happen before. I am going to replace plugs and igniters and also fuel filter to see if it improves. Any ideas?
Desmond Sequerah Ummm, clutch slipping? I have no idea. You mentioned K&N filter which I also had at one point. Be very careful with recharge as excessive oil in it will kill your air mass sensor. Now I use the stock paper filter. I did a video about this a while back here: th-cam.com/video/gx3ia_ntIEg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video man. I have noticed some vibration on my new to me 986. Gonna check the pulley out. Is it safe to turn on the engine with the cover behind the seats off? And was your roof top half way open for this job? THanks!
Strangely, some of my vibration went away but some of it remains. I think it might be from the muffler resonating. I was a bit cautious to have the cover off with the engine off because there are spinning parts in side. If anything fails, it'll fly out and hit who ever looking at it so it's pretty dangerous. I.e. belt snap and flap you on the head. Roof top was half way open to open the cover so it was left half open.
luc-alain de haes I was afraid of that. Maybe it's the IMS but I don't see metal shavings at the bottom of the oil reservoir. I just try not to drive it exactly at 3k rpm. lol.
You don't use a torque wrench to loosen a bolt, you use a long breaker bar with a cheater bar . A torque wrench is for tightening only and use a new bolt because threads stretch. I'm a retired nuclear maintain machinist hoped that helps.
You got that right. At least it didn't take too much to loosen. So, I'm using the bolt that came with the pulley which was used and likely stretched. I guess it could loosen and pop out if I didn't use a new one.
Avoid using an adjustable wrench on car fastener, else there is a high chance rounding them off! After that you will need to spend a lot more to get them off.
Hi BTB. I replaced the K&N air filter with OEM and cleaned the MAF Sensor. It has solved the miss at 5200rpm and improved the top end revs 80 percent. I will change the plugs and replace the crankshaft pulley with the underdrive one I have purchased. Thanks for your advice.
Cheers
Des
+Desmond Sequerah Awesome! Glad you got your problem fixed. Must've been the computer getting confused about the air mass to fuel ratio. When mine broke it really stutters all over the place.
Hi BTB. I replaced the MAF sensor with a new one and it solved my problem. Car pulls great from around 2k rpm to redline with the plenum splitter I made and put in. The K&N filter had fouled the MAF sensor causing all the drama. I am happy with the plenum splitter which cost me a second hand plenum and 200mm of 90mm pvc storm water piping. I still have my original plenum to put back if it did not work. Looks like it will now stay in. The mid range torque was lacking in the standard 2.5.
Desmond Sequerah I had the same problem with the K&N filter killing my MAF. I said exactly that in this other video where I replaced the MAF: th-cam.com/video/gx3ia_ntIEg/w-d-xo.html Not too sure what you are talking about regarding the plenum. Are you saying you made your own higher diameter 'intake tube' that goes from the intake filter (200mm) and then somehow reduces down to 90mm at the throttle body?
BeatTheBush
Hi BTB.
The plenum splitter is in the T-piece after the throttle body. I fabricated a pvc piece to split the air going to the left and right banks so it flows faster to the banks.
Desmond Sequerah Is it somehow bigger in diameter? I would think the way to get it to flow easier is by widening the bottleneck area which looks to be the whole tube in front of the throttle body.
Hello Engineer, that is not a timing belt Lol
I still like your video because I support all DIYers out there and I absolutely like your ethic and enthusiasm in your vids.
Oh yes... mistake. It's like a drive belt then.
did you say stretch bolt and you used the old one?????? should have replaced it
Is your car manual? What did you do to keep the flywheel lock the pulley locks in place while tightening?
If you have a manual transmission you can put the car in 5th gear with the ebrake on as well.
Oh no, you're only supposed to use the torque wrench to tighten things down to whatever the torque rating is
If you use that torque wrench to undo really tight things like that drive pulley bolt or the lug bolts for your wheels, you can apparently throw the calibration for the mechanism in the wrench off and suddenly it won't click at 85 ft-lbs for something like when you're putting on your wheels but something much higher like 125 ft-lbs
You can actually get a 24 inch breaker bar to undo tight bolts for like $20: www.amazon.ca/dp/B00VPPK0E0
And to make things even easier when undoing really stuck bolts you can put a steel pipe on the end of it and make an even longer breaker bar, something I wish I knew last year
That wobble though, I feel like I should replace my belt and see if any pulleys are wobbling
Yeah I was worried about that as well but luckily, the drive pulley bolt wasn't stuck (didn't require excessive force) and I was well under the 250ft-lb limit at around 100-150 ft-lb when loosening it.
A breaker bar is only like what... 15 bucks or so? Should be bought together with a torquie...
Baerchenization Should have but didn't. No turning back now even if my torque wrench got wrecked in the process.
Thanks. I will replace it with the stock one to see if that is the problem. I have a new one but never installed it. Cheers
Opps, I meant the K&N filter as a precaution and not that it would be causing your power stall at 5k rpm. Generally I feel a slight loss of power (but not struggle to red line) towards the end of my oil change cycle at that rpm. It comes back after I change the oil and/or sparkplugs.
Cheers. I understand. It could be a combination of things.
Can you do this same procedure on the 996 911 carrera 3.6l? it looks like same configuration. uses same pully as well
Well, the engines are very similar but I cannot say for sure since I've never worked on a 911 3.6l before. The method is pretty generic though, loosen bolt, put on new one, re-tighten. =D
Btw, I want to confirm that you can. Worked for me
Cool! One day... I'll also get a 911 .. wait maybe a GT4 =D =D
nice. Saved me a ton of money. Shop quoted me 5 hours labor. Took me about 15 min
Get a 24" "Breaker Bar" 1/2" drive, for loosening tight bolts, NEVER a torque wrench, they aren't made for that. Breaker bars are cheap too. ($20 or so). Nicely detailed video, I look forward to more.
Thanks for your video. Great job.👍 I have just bought an underdrive pulley to replace mine.
Awesome. I was considering that as well but then decided to just go with the stock since I don't really race my car.
Cheers for your reply. I also do not race mine but am trying to extract as much hp out of the 2.5. I really wanted the S but this was in such a good condition and yellow, the colour I was looking for so I bought it. So far I have installed headers, K&N air filter, my own version of the plenum splitter, soon to fit the underdrive pulley and also fitted 19" wheels recently. I did install a cat back stainless muffler but removed it as it droned at cruising speed. I replaced the OEM muffler and drilled 2x 10mm holes through the tail piece into the first chamber which in my opinion gave it a nicer exhaust note for free.
Keep up the good work.
Currently I am experiencing a flat spot at 5200rpm and it struggles to rev to red line from there. I don't think it is due to the plenum splitter as it was starting to happen before. I am going to replace plugs and igniters and also fuel filter to see if it improves. Any ideas?
Desmond Sequerah Ummm, clutch slipping? I have no idea. You mentioned K&N filter which I also had at one point. Be very careful with recharge as excessive oil in it will kill your air mass sensor. Now I use the stock paper filter. I did a video about this a while back here: th-cam.com/video/gx3ia_ntIEg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video man. I have noticed some vibration on my new to me 986. Gonna check the pulley out. Is it safe to turn on the engine with the cover behind the seats off? And was your roof top half way open for this job? THanks!
Strangely, some of my vibration went away but some of it remains. I think it might be from the muffler resonating. I was a bit cautious to have the cover off with the engine off because there are spinning parts in side. If anything fails, it'll fly out and hit who ever looking at it so it's pretty dangerous. I.e. belt snap and flap you on the head. Roof top was half way open to open the cover so it was left half open.
luc-alain de haes I was afraid of that. Maybe it's the IMS but I don't see metal shavings at the bottom of the oil reservoir. I just try not to drive it exactly at 3k rpm. lol.
You don't use a torque wrench to loosen a bolt, you use a long breaker bar with a cheater bar . A torque wrench is for tightening only and use a new bolt because threads stretch. I'm a retired nuclear maintain machinist hoped that helps.
You got that right. At least it didn't take too much to loosen. So, I'm using the bolt that came with the pulley which was used and likely stretched. I guess it could loosen and pop out if I didn't use a new one.
you probably bent when running it and the belt came off, quick revs will not do that damage
Avoid using an adjustable wrench on car fastener, else there is a high chance rounding them off! After that you will need to spend a lot more to get them off.
I agree. Luckily, non of that happened.
Thanks for your advice.😊👍
+Desmond Sequerah So easy to do as long as you have the right tools.
Should of used a drop of Blue Lock tite on that pully bolt.
I really should have.