Hi John, I am a devout DIYer over the past many (too many to mention) years. Being a new 08 Cayman owner, I have really enjoyed your videos. I have viewed 4 of your videos and have taken the mystery out of desyphering maintenance procedures for me. Thanks for your videos! Well done and easy to follow. I have also subscribed
Always a good idea to put a wheel under the car as a safety net if the worst did happen the wheel would stop you from being crushed badly. Always have a phone in your pocket as well. I tend to use jack stands and also keep a jack supporting the car for extra safety.
John, DIY replacing the soft top and IMS are some of the biggest and most PITA jobs that can be considered "typical" for 986s. By your garage I can see that you're no amateur, but still, dude. Those are huge tasks to get done yourself (and still have the car run afterwards ;) ). Major props!
@JK Thanks - The top I actually found pretty straight forward and not nearly as difficult as others made it out to be. I just followed Wayne Dempsey's article to the letter (Pelican Parts owner). The IMS was a bit of a different story (heavy work & much more difficult without a hoist and transmission jack), but still manageable for a tool pulling enthusiast - just took my time 🙂
Hi John, I've been a DIYer for for 50 years. Just acquired a 2001 986 that I am preparing for resale. Painted the hood and bumper because of stone chips (black car). Now am ready to do fluid changes, plugs and brake flush. I found this video, as I wasn't sure how to properly jack the car. Your description was most helpful and very thorough and straight to the point; including the several safety tips that were superimposed on the video. Your wife is lucky to have you as a mechanic. Wish I could say the same... Great video!
John the reason they say start at the front is that when starting at the rear the front tires must be securely blocked. Starting at the front the parking brake locks the rear tires. Great vidio, thak-you.
Good point. Unfortunately, my floor jack is not quite low profile enough to fit under the front first. I have to lift the back up first for the jack to then fit under the front .
I love my 986. I have replaced everything on mine in my garage thanks to people and videos like yours. !! I also did the IMS, flywheel, clutch, slave cylinder and rear main seal.
Thank you for this video, this is actually super helpful. I've never worked on my own car before and want to get started with basics such as changing fluids on the boxster I just picked up.
Fantastic and specific detail on how to safely raise the 986. Many thanks for posting and I will take heed of your comments and points about the various safety points. Similar to yourselves I wish to try and do as much maintenance on my newly acquired 986 as possible. This is a great start. Subscription made.
There’s a simple bracket you can buy and bolt permanently for lifting the car in the rear center on the 987. Might be something for the 986? Welding up a round adapter with a puck (Go Canucks!) to fit onto a normal Jack stand is a great idea. I use round rubber pads with a steel center pin that locks into the hole in the car’s lift mounts for improved locating speed and safety. I’ll bet you could drill out the puck and use a steel bolt for the same effect. It’s part of an amazing set of forged aluminum stands I use on the front lift points that allow you to lift the proper spot with a Jack and slide in the stand to the same spot. They’re $$$$ so I only bought two. I’m copying you for the rear!
Great info...My wife has an 03 and I've always been afraid to work on it...But they get crazy money for oil changes at the dealer. I do all the maintenance on my pickup and Lincoln...Now I'll give the boxster a try. Thanks
I like your videos. Clear explanations and step by step instructions are easy to follow. Made my convertible top manual- I like it better this way, less to have to worry about.
Excellent and safe methods, thank you. Have you come across or viideo on how to fix stiff triptronics shifter on 2006 Cayman S. This only occurs when outside temperature is 80 plus degrees.
Thank you! Excellent video. I recently just got an 04 Boxster and the labor for oil change/transmission flush are very high... LOL so I'm gonna tackle them myself! They don't seem too terribly difficult :)
Great video, thanks. I just bought a 2005 and am looking to do some of the routine stuff myself. I know you said you lifted the front and back because you were doing the brake flush at the same time. If you were just doing an oil change would you only lift the back? I'm wondering about the effect on draining.
@Lynn Eakin - It was actually a pretty straight forward job - just took my time and followed Wayne Dempsey's instructions to the letter. Stood on the shoulders of the master. The hardest part of the entire job I had was paying $600CND for the IMS tool 😄 I know I could sell it, but figure I better hang onto it if I ever have to do another one.
Hi John, Thanks for the video! I just bought a Porsche 987, and have two jack stands and two wheel ramps. I am a little lost on how you designed the hockey-pucks on the jack stands. I wanted to ask if you could clarify how you created this set-up, and what types of hockey puck or rubber fitted piece are recommended. -Matt
Hi Matt. I welded some square tube on the sides of the jack axle stands to support the full face of the regular 6oz hockey pucks and screwed the pucks to the square tube. There are however better options these days with all the various "jack pads" that are available to fit directly onto different types of floor jacks and jack axle stands - for example: amzn.to/49rOC7D
@@Rchelicopterfun I have a number of Princess Auto products and this coming from someone that has a slew of Snap-On tools and torque wrenches. I like their Pro Point upper end products like the 14" cold cut metal saw, etc. For other items, I go to Harbor Freight.
Thank you for the video. I just purchased a 2004 boxster s that I will be tracking so I will try to do some of the maintenance myself. Which jack stands are those?
Have you considered why brake fluid has a change interval of 2 years but same fluid in clutch system has no such interval. If in one system DOT4 can last the life of the car, why should it only be good for 2 years in the other? Both are supposedly equally well sealed against moisture intrusion, and the brake system runs hot enough to boil off water near the slave cylinders yet has the shorter interval. If anyone knows the answer, please share it
@Alexander Schonfeld - The primary reason you just answered yourself with the "boil off water" statement. Yep, that's exactly what happens to hygroscopic DOT3/4 that has been diluted with H2O over time when it gets hot down at the calipers under hard breaking - it boils. Where do you think the bubbles created when it boils go? Yep, they are now trapped in the brake hydraulic system and since air is compressible, now you have a spongy brake pedal, and poor braking performance. By the way, no hydraulic brake or clutch system is perfectly "sealed" from the air, it's always absorbing some moisture. Corrosion prevention and flushing brake system component wear contaminates out of the system are the other conventional reasons to flush brake fluid regularly. Changing viscosity of the fluid as it ages is another one with today's sensitive ABS, traction, and stability control systems. Now to the clutch. Not sure what clutch fluid change intervals your vehicles have had; none of mine have ever stated "life time". All mine state in the service manuals 2 to 5 years for DOT 3/4 clutch fluid flush intervals when they don't share the same fluid reservoir as the brakes. The 986 does share the same reservoir, so the clutch fluid gets changed at every brake fluid flush regardless. I do however flush the remainder of the clutch circuit out down at the clutch slave cylinder every 2nd brake fluid change. If you go longer however in a separate clutch fluid system, never change it and your clutch hydraulics eventually fail, who cares. The worst that happens is you can't disengage the clutch, it sticks or the fluid leaks out due to cylinder corrosion & seal degradation. In contrast, if your brake hydraulics' fail, people can die. That is why the importance is emphasized on brake fluid change intervals. You know, common sense safety reasoning. Of course, there is silicone DOT 5 which you can leave in for longer intervals as it's not hygroscopic, but that's another rabbit hole to venture down.
Hi John, thought I recognised the voice ( re your RC helicopter tutorials ) correct? Anyway, just wondering what height in inches is good for say doing an oil change please Thanks
Yes correct. Totally depends on how much working space you need/require under the car. Use a height that works for you. I generally have my jack stand heights around 18 inches, you may or may not find that gives you sufficient room.
I had about 5 feet from behind the car to the wall of the garage, but it can also be slid out from the side. The manual transaxle is not that big or heavy.
Where did you buy your jack? I have a low profile jack but it’s not long enough to reach the Jack point in front and allow a jack stand to be placed alongside.
Great video! Thanks for sharing. Good tip on the hockey puck. But...where am I going to find that living in Florida? lol I wonder if the author is Canadian ;)
Hydraulic Floor Jack or Jack Stands? Hydraulic jack is just a hockey puck placed on the jacking foot - nothing special. The jack stands (which I assume you are referencing), as I state in video, have the hockey pucks "glued & screwed" onto them after welding some square tube to either side of the axle cradle to fully support the puck. I have seen jack stands that come with nice big rubber feet already installed, but they are $$$ pricey. Another option that might work are rubber feet that are made specifically for axle type stands. Here is one example if you wanted to see: amzn.to/2BrTgVV
Nice video John. I also service my own Porsche. My 2005 Boxster S still has the original IMS bearing and so far no signs of wear via oil filter inspections and listening for noise. I am interested to hear you replaced your own IMS bearing. Can you elaborate further about what this entails and whose replacement bearing you installed. This is something I feel I ought to do for peace of mind.
DIY IMS replacement is possible if you are comfortable working on vehicles (I admittedly used to pull wrenches for a living). It requires transmission removal which is the most difficult single part of the job, but even that is not too bad. These cars are very easy to work on for the most part. You have to lock the one camshaft on the 1st gen 986 before pulling the IMS bearing cap so it doesn't go out of position while there is nothing holding the IMS shaft once you remove the bearing cap. Seem to me the later models need the secondary shaft held as well or it too could slip? I used the LN Engineering dual row ceramic hybrid replacement bearing with the updated bearing cap. You need the special LN IMS bearing removal tool set as well which is fairly costly, but you can rent them or find used ones. I purchased everything from Pelican Parts including Wayne's 101 Boxster Projects book which shows the entire procedure but they also have it on their website. I replaced my clutch and rear main seal at the same time since it was all apart and a good time to do it. To be perfectly honestly, I think much of this IMS stuff is fear mongering. At least with 1st gen 986's since they used the dual row bearing, had less HP, and low failure rates. The bearing I took out was still perfectly fine, but like you, I was worrying about it and had to change the clutch anyways so figured it was a good time to do it. Certainly the 2nd gen Boxy, had a higher failure rate (I think around 8%), because it used a single row bearing and was up on HP. So yes, if only for peace of mind, it's likely worth while. If you plan on keeping the car, there is also an oil pressure fed IMS bearing retrofit. It's pricey, but for long term ownership, might be worthwhile? One thing the infamous IMS fear mongering has done is make all the IMS Porsche's undervalued and accessible to many people so grab these cars while we can as they will go up in price eventually. In fact, it's starting to happen when I look at current price trends. It's funny how people forget about Porsche engine issues. I had a 1973 911T for many years and when one of the mechanical chain tensioners failed in it (an almost 100% guaranteed problem to eventually occur on those cars), the left bank of pistons and valves tried to become one. As a result, I decided to sell it in 2002, several years before the air cooled pre-impact bumper 911 prices started climbing through the roof. If I would have kept that car which was 100% original and in great shape other than the blown 2.4L mechanically fuel injected engine; it would be worth close to $100K now. Raise of hands - how many of us sold those early pre-impact bumper air cooled 911's for what early 986's are currently selling for and now feel horrible? I keep telling my wife not to sell her Boxster for the same reason. No, a Boxster will never demand the price of 70's 911's due to there being so many of them, but they will go up in value, of that I have no doubt.
2005 and above also got an improved ims bearing so failure rate is much lower than the previous generation. I have a 2007 boxter s with 60k miles and don't worry about it, people are inducing more problems changing it than they otherwise would have.
I used to think that, but hockey pucks ended up being just fine for me. I have an auto lift and use them to level just about every car or truck I lift. They are rubber and grip really well. I can tell because the pucks have indentations where the metal bites into them. In fact, they wear out and get all marks and lines in them.
They work a treat. Solid rubber be it a hockey puck or commercial arm lift pad is the same stuff. We often used pucks at the shop when our Bendpak arm pads wore our while waiting for new ones.
Hi John, I am a devout DIYer over the past many (too many to mention) years. Being a new 08 Cayman owner, I have really enjoyed your videos. I have viewed 4 of your videos and have taken the mystery out of desyphering maintenance procedures for me. Thanks for your videos! Well done and easy to follow. I have also subscribed
Always a good idea to put a wheel under the car as a safety net if the worst did happen the wheel would stop you from being crushed badly. Always have a phone in your pocket as well. I tend to use jack stands and also keep a jack supporting the car for extra safety.
John, DIY replacing the soft top and IMS are some of the biggest and most PITA jobs that can be considered "typical" for 986s. By your garage I can see that you're no amateur, but still, dude. Those are huge tasks to get done yourself (and still have the car run afterwards ;) ). Major props!
@JK Thanks - The top I actually found pretty straight forward and not nearly as difficult as others made it out to be. I just followed Wayne Dempsey's article to the letter (Pelican Parts owner). The IMS was a bit of a different story (heavy work & much more difficult without a hoist and transmission jack), but still manageable for a tool pulling enthusiast - just took my time 🙂
Hi John, I've been a DIYer for for 50 years. Just acquired a 2001 986 that I am preparing for resale. Painted the hood and bumper because of stone chips (black car). Now am ready to do fluid changes, plugs and brake flush. I found this video, as I wasn't sure how to properly jack the car. Your description was most helpful and very thorough and straight to the point; including the several safety tips that were superimposed on the video. Your wife is lucky to have you as a mechanic. Wish I could say the same... Great video!
🙂👍
John the reason they say start at the front is that when starting at the rear the front tires must be securely blocked. Starting at the front the parking brake locks the rear tires. Great vidio, thak-you.
Good point. Unfortunately, my floor jack is not quite low profile enough to fit under the front first. I have to lift the back up first for the jack to then fit under the front .
I love my 986. I have replaced everything on mine in my garage thanks to people and videos like yours. !! I also did the IMS, flywheel, clutch, slave cylinder and rear main seal.
Thank you for this video, this is actually super helpful. I've never worked on my own car before and want to get started with basics such as changing fluids on the boxster I just picked up.
I put a few cinder blocks under mine as well as a fail safe in case a jack stand fails for some reason.
Fantastic and specific detail on how to safely raise the 986. Many thanks for posting and I will take heed of your comments and points about the various safety points. Similar to yourselves I wish to try and do as much maintenance on my newly acquired 986 as possible. This is a great start. Subscription made.
Thanks for watching, thanks for the sub and most importantly, enjoy your 986 - such fun cars to drive and wrench on! 🙂
There’s a simple bracket you can buy and bolt permanently for lifting the car in the rear center on the 987. Might be something for the 986?
Welding up a round adapter with a puck (Go Canucks!) to fit onto a normal Jack stand is a great idea. I use round rubber pads with a steel center pin that locks into the hole in the car’s lift mounts for improved locating speed and safety. I’ll bet you could drill out the puck and use a steel bolt for the same effect.
It’s part of an amazing set of forged aluminum stands I use on the front lift points that allow you to lift the proper spot with a Jack and slide in the stand to the same spot. They’re $$$$ so I only bought two. I’m copying you for the rear!
Great info...My wife has an 03 and I've always been afraid to work on it...But they get crazy money for oil changes at the dealer. I do all the maintenance on my pickup and Lincoln...Now I'll give the boxster a try. Thanks
I like your videos. Clear explanations and step by step instructions are easy to follow. Made my convertible top manual- I like it better this way, less to have to worry about.
Excellent video - thank you for taking the time to film this 👍
thanks, did this with the 981 rear end.
Nice 👍
Many thanks what a great video, visually and documented superbly, do you have one on removing the front bumper?
Not in detail, but I do mention process in the rad cleaning video I did: th-cam.com/video/jyYgpYwJtq8/w-d-xo.html
Excellent video! Excellence was expected... and was received, hence 'Like' and 'Subscribe' were clicked!
Hockey pucks eh, so Canadian haha! Great idea though. Thanks for this video. It is helpful.
You bet 🙂
Excellent and safe methods, thank you. Have you come across or viideo on how to fix stiff triptronics shifter on 2006 Cayman S. This only occurs when outside temperature is 80 plus degrees.
Sorry, no idea - ours is a manual.
Thank you! Excellent video. I recently just got an 04 Boxster and the labor for oil change/transmission flush are very high... LOL so I'm gonna tackle them myself! They don't seem too terribly difficult :)
Great video !
Thanks for the visit
Thank you for the video very informative. I just bought my Boxster and find your video very helpful.
Nice mod for jacks
Great video, thanks. I just bought a 2005 and am looking to do some of the routine stuff myself. I know you said you lifted the front and back because you were doing the brake flush at the same time. If you were just doing an oil change would you only lift the back? I'm wondering about the effect on draining.
You can just lift the back end, but not quite as much oil will drain out. Best to have the car level to get as much oil out as possible.
Alcolade’s to you !!!!! Replacing the IMS bearing it’s not a job for weekend DIY‘s!! Wow 😮
@Lynn Eakin - It was actually a pretty straight forward job - just took my time and followed Wayne Dempsey's instructions to the letter. Stood on the shoulders of the master. The hardest part of the entire job I had was paying $600CND for the IMS tool 😄 I know I could sell it, but figure I better hang onto it if I ever have to do another one.
Love the hockey puck idea!
Thank you for the video
Hi John,
Thanks for the video! I just bought a Porsche 987, and have two jack stands and two wheel ramps. I am a little lost on how you designed the hockey-pucks on the jack stands. I wanted to ask if you could clarify how you created this set-up, and what types of hockey puck or rubber fitted piece are recommended.
-Matt
Hi Matt. I welded some square tube on the sides of the jack axle stands to support the full face of the regular 6oz hockey pucks and screwed the pucks to the square tube. There are however better options these days with all the various "jack pads" that are available to fit directly onto different types of floor jacks and jack axle stands - for example: amzn.to/49rOC7D
A Power Fist jack from Princess Auto. I caught that.
Good old power fister 😄
@@Rchelicopterfun I have a number of Princess Auto products and this coming from someone that has a slew of Snap-On tools and torque wrenches. I like their Pro Point upper end products like the 14" cold cut metal saw, etc. For other items, I go to Harbor Freight.
Thank you for the video. I just purchased a 2004 boxster s that I will be tracking so I will try to do some of the maintenance myself. Which jack stands are those?
Links are in the description to similar ones along with pad adapters so you don't have to weld them like I had to on mine.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks for the informative video. Will I be safe without the flat hockey puck adapters? Thank you!
If the front wheels are blocked, can you just put the rear on jack stands for access to change the oil?
Yes, my only concern is not all the oil will drain out during a change if the car is not level.
I think I’ll lower back back down to level and let it drain for a half hour. The container is slim enough.
Have you considered why brake fluid has a change interval of 2 years but same fluid in clutch system has no such interval. If in one system DOT4 can last the life of the car, why should it only be good for 2 years in the other? Both are supposedly equally well sealed against moisture intrusion, and the brake system runs hot enough to boil off water near the slave cylinders yet has the shorter interval. If anyone knows the answer, please share it
@Alexander Schonfeld - The primary reason you just answered yourself with the "boil off water" statement. Yep, that's exactly what happens to hygroscopic DOT3/4 that has been diluted with H2O over time when it gets hot down at the calipers under hard breaking - it boils. Where do you think the bubbles created when it boils go? Yep, they are now trapped in the brake hydraulic system and since air is compressible, now you have a spongy brake pedal, and poor braking performance.
By the way, no hydraulic brake or clutch system is perfectly "sealed" from the air, it's always absorbing some moisture.
Corrosion prevention and flushing brake system component wear contaminates out of the system are the other conventional reasons to flush brake fluid regularly. Changing viscosity of the fluid as it ages is another one with today's sensitive ABS, traction, and stability control systems.
Now to the clutch. Not sure what clutch fluid change intervals your vehicles have had; none of mine have ever stated "life time". All mine state in the service manuals 2 to 5 years for DOT 3/4 clutch fluid flush intervals when they don't share the same fluid reservoir as the brakes. The 986 does share the same reservoir, so the clutch fluid gets changed at every brake fluid flush regardless. I do however flush the remainder of the clutch circuit out down at the clutch slave cylinder every 2nd brake fluid change.
If you go longer however in a separate clutch fluid system, never change it and your clutch hydraulics eventually fail, who cares. The worst that happens is you can't disengage the clutch, it sticks or the fluid leaks out due to cylinder corrosion & seal degradation. In contrast, if your brake hydraulics' fail, people can die. That is why the importance is emphasized on brake fluid change intervals. You know, common sense safety reasoning. Of course, there is silicone DOT 5 which you can leave in for longer intervals as it's not hygroscopic, but that's another rabbit hole to venture down.
Hi John, thought I recognised the voice ( re your RC helicopter tutorials ) correct?
Anyway, just wondering what height in inches is good for say doing an oil change please
Thanks
Yes correct. Totally depends on how much working space you need/require under the car. Use a height that works for you. I generally have my jack stand heights around 18 inches, you may or may not find that gives you sufficient room.
NIce clear presentation. Thanks.
Great job, thanks. If you wanted to Jack it higher would you do it in one go or in stages?
I go in stages.
Thank you great info!!
This is easier than the VW GTI I had.
Thank you John!
How much room behind the car did you need when you pulled the transmission out?
I had about 5 feet from behind the car to the wall of the garage, but it can also be slid out from the side. The manual transaxle is not that big or heavy.
Where did you buy your jack? I have a low profile jack but it’s not long enough to reach the Jack point in front and allow a jack stand to be placed alongside.
Princess Auto (Canadian store). It's exactly the same as the Amazon low profile jack I link to in the description: amzn.to/2GWjW2Q
Thanks!
thanks well done
Most welcome
do I need 4 stands? 2 is not enough?
Job dependent.
@@Rchelicopterfun thanks for reply~! when you need lift up higher, is it ok to use 5tons jack stands??
Great video! Thanks for sharing. Good tip on the hockey puck. But...where am I going to find that living in Florida? lol
I wonder if the author is Canadian ;)
Yep 🇨🇦
Hi John, how did you get that rubber on the top of that jack?
Hydraulic Floor Jack or Jack Stands? Hydraulic jack is just a hockey puck placed on the jacking foot - nothing special.
The jack stands (which I assume you are referencing), as I state in video, have the hockey pucks "glued & screwed" onto them after welding some square tube to either side of the axle cradle to fully support the puck. I have seen jack stands that come with nice big rubber feet already installed, but they are $$$ pricey.
Another option that might work are rubber feet that are made specifically for axle type stands. Here is one example if you wanted to see: amzn.to/2BrTgVV
The yellow things are not "jacks". They are "jack stands". Minor point.
Extremely minor point considering I do call them jack stands at the beginning of the video @ 2:23 and several times throughout 🖕
Subscribed. You're more like Sugar John.
Nice video John. I also service my own Porsche. My 2005 Boxster S still has the original IMS bearing and so far no signs of wear via oil filter inspections and listening for noise. I am interested to hear you replaced your own IMS bearing. Can you elaborate further about what this entails and whose replacement bearing you installed. This is something I feel I ought to do for peace of mind.
DIY IMS replacement is possible if you are comfortable working on vehicles (I admittedly used to pull wrenches for a living). It requires transmission removal which is the most difficult single part of the job, but even that is not too bad. These cars are very easy to work on for the most part. You have to lock the one camshaft on the 1st gen 986 before pulling the IMS bearing cap so it doesn't go out of position while there is nothing holding the IMS shaft once you remove the bearing cap. Seem to me the later models need the secondary shaft held as well or it too could slip? I used the LN Engineering dual row ceramic hybrid replacement bearing with the updated bearing cap. You need the special LN IMS bearing removal tool set as well which is fairly costly, but you can rent them or find used ones. I purchased everything from Pelican Parts including Wayne's 101 Boxster Projects book which shows the entire procedure but they also have it on their website. I replaced my clutch and rear main seal at the same time since it was all apart and a good time to do it.
To be perfectly honestly, I think much of this IMS stuff is fear mongering. At least with 1st gen 986's since they used the dual row bearing, had less HP, and low failure rates. The bearing I took out was still perfectly fine, but like you, I was worrying about it and had to change the clutch anyways so figured it was a good time to do it. Certainly the 2nd gen Boxy, had a higher failure rate (I think around 8%), because it used a single row bearing and was up on HP. So yes, if only for peace of mind, it's likely worth while. If you plan on keeping the car, there is also an oil pressure fed IMS bearing retrofit. It's pricey, but for long term ownership, might be worthwhile?
One thing the infamous IMS fear mongering has done is make all the IMS Porsche's undervalued and accessible to many people so grab these cars while we can as they will go up in price eventually. In fact, it's starting to happen when I look at current price trends. It's funny how people forget about Porsche engine issues. I had a 1973 911T for many years and when one of the mechanical chain tensioners failed in it (an almost 100% guaranteed problem to eventually occur on those cars), the left bank of pistons and valves tried to become one. As a result, I decided to sell it in 2002, several years before the air cooled pre-impact bumper 911 prices started climbing through the roof. If I would have kept that car which was 100% original and in great shape other than the blown 2.4L mechanically fuel injected engine; it would be worth close to $100K now. Raise of hands - how many of us sold those early pre-impact bumper air cooled 911's for what early 986's are currently selling for and now feel horrible? I keep telling my wife not to sell her Boxster for the same reason. No, a Boxster will never demand the price of 70's 911's due to there being so many of them, but they will go up in value, of that I have no doubt.
2005 and above also got an improved ims bearing so failure rate is much lower than the previous generation. I have a 2007 boxter s with 60k miles and don't worry about it, people are inducing more problems changing it than they otherwise would have.
The ims is a sealed bearing, you won't see anything in the oil filter if it goes bad and you likely won't hear anything.
❤
🙂👍
VerminderT
This is easy for you. I need the car 12 inches higher to get my beer belly under there.....
Lol @ having the jack stands at different heights.
I think the hockey pucks are a bad idea , there's no grip , no hooks ,no spikes, nothing to stop it from sliding off.
Nothing but 2800 lbs partner.
I used to think that, but hockey pucks ended up being just fine for me. I have an auto lift and use them to level just about every car or truck I lift. They are rubber and grip really well. I can tell because the pucks have indentations where the metal bites into them. In fact, they wear out and get all marks and lines in them.
Surprise and a little nervous that a hockey puck can withstand 3,000 lbs
They work a treat. Solid rubber be it a hockey puck or commercial arm lift pad is the same stuff. We often used pucks at the shop when our Bendpak arm pads wore our while waiting for new ones.