Hi Van, always enjoyed your videos. I live in Japan and both me and a friend drive older Boxsters. We have been talking about upgrading his suspension for a couple of years so the Corona quarantine was the perfect excuse. With the exception of jacking the vehicle up, had all 4 corners swapped out including new springs in about 3 hours. The technique for the rear was a huge timesaver. Thank you, much appreciated.
Van, thanks for the as always good advice. Your videos have enabled me to do some things I probably wouldn't have tried, such as brakes, etc. Thanks again.
Here is a good one and that from a 987 Boxster owner. He was thinking about replacing one rear strut on a car that had 118,000 miles on it. When you have that many miles, you replace BOTH rear struts. Incredible!
Great video! Marks for suspension packages: Color on top of spring: indicates required coil plate thickness through color markings on upper section of coil spring: White line = 3.0 mm spring plate; Green line = 6,5 mm spring plate. Color on the bottom of the spring: indicates spring rates and lenghts by line markings on the lower section of the spring. blue/yellow (1997 - 2004) 5-speed manual blue/white (1997 - 2004) 5-speed automatic red/brown (1997 - 2002) 5-speed manual / Sport yellow/brown (2003 - 2004) 5-speed manual / Sport red/white (1997 - 2002) 5-speed automatic / Sport yellow/white (2003 - 2004) 5-speed automatic / Sport violet/yellow (2000 -2004) S / 6-speed manual violet/white (2000 - 2004) S / 5-speed automatic orange/brown (2000 - 2004) S / 6-speed manual / Sport orange/white (2000 - 2004) S / 5-speed automatic / Sport Color on strut body: Blue dot = standard suspension; Red dot = sport suspension.
Don't need to drop the film,I just did one today,I just LOOSE the lower arm rear bush nut ,then all the arm will drop down, make sure jack up the arm before lock the rear bush bolt and nut.
No, I'm afraid that's all the footage I took... But you should find it pretty straight forward. Undo the struts by unbolting the upper perches from the body. Then, undo the suspension I like I show so you can swing the struts away from the body without hitting the fenders. Slide the struts out of the carrier. Then, on the ground, I used an air impact wrench to undo the nut that holds the perch on (and keeps the spring under compression).
The new springs we used are the ROW setup (a little stiff and a little lower ride height than the US spec), and no spring compressor was needed. Of course, plan to do an alignment afterwards - your car is probably due!
Mine had a small washer that sat on the tapered shoulder of the strut rod that gave the large dished washer a better seating. This refers to the front strut.
Mine has this washer too. Sits snugly onto the little convex shoulder of the shock absorber shaft just before the threads start. Seems pretty important for transferring the shaft forces to the larger curved washer and top hat.
Van, another great video! I am wondering if you have suggestions for finding a good mechanic to look at the engine on a 968 that produces an exhaust smell but little if any smoke. I've been doing a lot of the interior refurbishing myself on the car, but this is beyond my knowledge. I don't know if it's exhaust valves or something in the upper engine or lower engine. The engine does have a few leaks: the rear main seal, oil pan and I think that's it. Thanks.
Van, I'm just about to do this on my 987 front axle. I appreciate you're showing a 986, but assuming the differences aren't vast, I've been told by a Porsche tech that I may not need spring compressors on the front, to release the the spring from the strut, which I find hard to believe - would that be right do you know?
+rusty2222 I don't know... but I wouldn't be surprised, especially if you have aftermarket lowering springs, that you'd be able to push them down by hand enough to release the perch. Good luck!
Just to update this, I found it was possible to jack the wheel carrier from below, compressing the spring, undo the top nut & release the jack, detensioning the springs progressively & then wiggle them off the strut. No compressor needed & twenty minutes a side to change the mounts. Pleased with that hack!
@@rusty2222 lucky you! I tried this aswell but topnut was incredibly tight. Got the strut out and the got the top nut loose in the vice with much difficulty. Found that the top nut had been squeezed or crushed oval (i.e. the centre of the nut was oval, not round). Looked like the original Porsche strut still. 1998 Boxster. Had to get a new nut. Anyone else find this? Both left and right front were the same. Haven't done the rears.
Because of the labor involved, it's probably about the same price to just replace the axles (e.g. more expensive part, less labor). If your boots are torn, then the joint will likely have accelerated wear because of debris getting in.
Van Svenson thanks so much ! I’ve also taken care of the IMS and the clutch and some other stuff that has worn out with time ..and I love my boxter S ...next project the struts and schocks
I assume you mean "engine smell in the cockpit"? It could easily be oil burning off the exhaust pipe under the car... What shape is your shifter boot in - the rubber part under the leather? For finding a good mechanic, I'd start with your local PCA chapter. Who advertises in the local PCA newsletter? Go to a PCA event or two (like a dinner, drive or car show - doesn't have to be the track) and ask people with similar cars who they use and who they're happy with.
This is the exact update that I've been putting off for a year. Is there any chance that you have more detailed video highlighting all the steps? Great summary btw.
Hi Van, always enjoyed your videos. I live in Japan and both me and a friend drive older Boxsters. We have been talking about upgrading his suspension for a couple of years so the Corona quarantine was the perfect excuse. With the exception of jacking the vehicle up, had all 4 corners swapped out including new springs in about 3 hours. The technique for the rear was a huge timesaver. Thank you, much appreciated.
Van, thanks for the as always good advice. Your videos have enabled me to do some things I probably wouldn't have tried, such as brakes, etc. Thanks again.
Here is a good one and that from a 987 Boxster owner. He was thinking about replacing one rear strut on a car that had 118,000 miles on it. When you have that many miles, you replace BOTH rear struts. Incredible!
I changed all 4, but made the video on just one.
@@vsvenson I realize that.
Great video, I changed my rear struts in about four hours thanks to your help.
Great video!
Marks for suspension packages:
Color on top of spring: indicates required coil plate thickness through color markings on upper section of coil spring: White line = 3.0 mm spring plate; Green line = 6,5 mm spring plate.
Color on the bottom of the spring: indicates spring rates and lenghts by line markings on the lower section of the spring.
blue/yellow (1997 - 2004) 5-speed manual
blue/white (1997 - 2004) 5-speed automatic
red/brown (1997 - 2002) 5-speed manual / Sport
yellow/brown (2003 - 2004) 5-speed manual / Sport
red/white (1997 - 2002) 5-speed automatic / Sport
yellow/white (2003 - 2004) 5-speed automatic / Sport
violet/yellow (2000 -2004) S / 6-speed manual
violet/white (2000 - 2004) S / 5-speed automatic
orange/brown (2000 - 2004) S / 6-speed manual / Sport
orange/white (2000 - 2004) S / 5-speed automatic / Sport
Color on strut body: Blue dot = standard suspension; Red dot = sport suspension.
White line = 3.0 mm spring plate (996 343 511 00) ; Green line = 6,5 mm spring plate (996 343 511 01).
Very comprehensive - thanks!
Don't need to drop the film,I just did one today,I just LOOSE the lower arm rear bush nut ,then all the arm will drop down, make sure jack up the arm before lock the rear bush bolt and nut.
great video as always Van! keep them up
No, I'm afraid that's all the footage I took... But you should find it pretty straight forward. Undo the struts by unbolting the upper perches from the body. Then, undo the suspension I like I show so you can swing the struts away from the body without hitting the fenders. Slide the struts out of the carrier. Then, on the ground, I used an air impact wrench to undo the nut that holds the perch on (and keeps the spring under compression).
Great explanation of the parts involved, thanks.
The new springs we used are the ROW setup (a little stiff and a little lower ride height than the US spec), and no spring compressor was needed. Of course, plan to do an alignment afterwards - your car is probably due!
Mine had a small washer that sat on the tapered shoulder of the strut rod that gave the large dished washer a better seating. This refers to the front strut.
Mine has this washer too. Sits snugly onto the little convex shoulder of the shock absorber shaft just before the threads start. Seems pretty important for transferring the shaft forces to the larger curved washer and top hat.
I'm about to change out the rear struts on my cayman. Do any fluids leak out when the driveshaft is unbolted?
No.
Van, another great video! I am wondering if you have suggestions for finding a good mechanic to look at the engine on a 968 that produces an exhaust smell but little if any smoke. I've been doing a lot of the interior refurbishing myself on the car, but this is beyond my knowledge. I don't know if it's exhaust valves or something in the upper engine or lower engine. The engine does have a few leaks: the rear main seal, oil pan and I think that's it. Thanks.
Super helpful thanks!
Van, I'm just about to do this on my 987 front axle. I appreciate you're showing a 986, but assuming the differences aren't vast, I've been told by a Porsche tech that I may not need spring compressors on the front, to release the the spring from the strut, which I find hard to believe - would that be right do you know?
+rusty2222 I don't know... but I wouldn't be surprised, especially if you have aftermarket lowering springs, that you'd be able to push them down by hand enough to release the perch. Good luck!
+Van Svenson Thanks Van, I appreciate the help.
Just to update this, I found it was possible to jack the wheel carrier from below, compressing the spring, undo the top nut & release the jack, detensioning the springs progressively & then wiggle them off the strut. No compressor needed & twenty minutes a side to change the mounts. Pleased with that hack!
lol, so with this trick you don't even need to unbolt all the subframe/arms to get the strut out?? That sounds like quite the trick!
@@rusty2222 lucky you! I tried this aswell but topnut was incredibly tight. Got the strut out and the got the top nut loose in the vice with much difficulty. Found that the top nut had been squeezed or crushed oval (i.e. the centre of the nut was oval, not round). Looked like the original Porsche strut still. 1998 Boxster. Had to get a new nut.
Anyone else find this?
Both left and right front were the same. Haven't done the rears.
Is it expensive to replace the cv boots on the back of the boxter?
Because of the labor involved, it's probably about the same price to just replace the axles (e.g. more expensive part, less labor). If your boots are torn, then the joint will likely have accelerated wear because of debris getting in.
Van Svenson thanks so much ! I’ve also taken care of the IMS and the clutch and some other stuff that has worn out with time ..and I love my boxter S ...next project the struts and schocks
Well done, thanks!
why is it that the calipers have to come off the rotor? can it not be mover with them on?
Moving the caliper out of the way makes sure the brake line doesn't get pulled tight without the strut supporting the spindle.
Okay thanks
I assume you mean "engine smell in the cockpit"? It could easily be oil burning off the exhaust pipe under the car... What shape is your shifter boot in - the rubber part under the leather? For finding a good mechanic, I'd start with your local PCA chapter. Who advertises in the local PCA newsletter? Go to a PCA event or two (like a dinner, drive or car show - doesn't have to be the track) and ask people with similar cars who they use and who they're happy with.
This is the exact update that I've been putting off for a year. Is there any chance that you have more detailed video highlighting all the steps? Great summary btw.
over kill on front . Just loosen the lower control arm and then you can remove the front strut.
Yep I've just been dreading doing the job myself trying to find every excuse in the world not to.