Looking forward to the buyers guide! There is one thing I learned a long time ago, DO NOT FUDGE ON LINE! The line and hooks are the difference in a great day and a crappy day!
Been using Power Pro & Power Pro Super Slick for years and it works great for me and my fishing and body of water. Every setup has braid and some have fluro leaders. Simple and works for me
Thanks Tim,The blood knot tool cost 8 bucks on line and when i am in the wind,sun is in my eyes that little brass square with a plastic pin does a perfect knot in 10 seconds every time.Looking forward to the buyers guides,hope this helps someone out.
I've used nothing but monofilament line for the past almost 50 years. This is what my father used when he taught my brother and I how to fish back when we were kids and I've used it ever since with great results.
I use it for jungle urban fishing because it's stretchability helps getting unsnagged and has good strength for the fish found there; no double digits there.
I settled on Sunline about 4 years ago... I basically only use 4 of them Shooter, Sniper, Xplasma, and the AMZ X8. I just started messing around with the Almight line and been really impressed only down side is it's such a thin diameter braid you really have to pay attention to any nicks. Great video as always keepem coming guys!!!
I’ve been using the FG for years now, I’ve gotten to where I can tie it very quickly and easily even in the wind and chop, and now that I’ve been doing it for so long I can tell when it’s not a good knot just by looking at it. But I learned that by a LOT of trial and error and even more heartbreak lol. Great video Tim, excellent tips and info!
I used invizx for about 5 years and then I started having issues like something had changed in formula. I switched to FC sniper and yo-zuri T7 ,both are great with T7 being the strongest. Double Sand jam works great with all fluorocarbon lines.Now if fish are active line size doesn't matter but on those bluebird days lighter line prevails. Double Alberto is the most consistent connection knot for me,I know you guys like the blood knot. Appreciate you guys!
Wow, this is the first of your videos, that left me not knowing whether to crap or go blind ! I think those who have a good grip on fishing and line choices, probably got a lot out of this...that was not the case for me. I do however have to thank you for so much that I have learned watching your videos.
As an intermediate angler, I really appreciate this video. There's so many options and line selection can get overwhelming, this will definitely help. I've learned quite a lot from you and Matt, thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge. By the way, where can I get one of those hats???
Started using the defiant shock leader fluro. Best stuff I used so far. Spooked up 3 reels with their braid. Smaller diameter than most so looking to see how it performs
Not an expert, however, it’s worth mentioning to those using the modified blood knot it works tons better with line close to a similar diameter. Great work however, and amazing info as always, keep it up!
I like what you said about braid. You keep it forever. That’s why I’ve invested in the CAST braid, literally the smoothest on the market and I’ve kept it on some reels for multiple years. Premium price, but it’s worth the extra coin for sure
Double blood knot is what I use on my bigger line also! I also use uni to uni on small line! For about 7 years and yes I started using the double blood knot after watching a video y’all made all them years ago lol
Inshore fishing opened my eyes on mono. ANY time I’m around thick heavy cover mono is my new go to. I’d rather stretch around the structure than have no stretch around it. I couldn’t believe it until I switched from fluoro to mono leader and started landing fish from under concrete piers.
The buyers guides are awesome and fun. I’m a big fan of Berkeley big game mono. Also kk tripolymer has been good to me as well lately. Love braid to a leader when river fishing. My only inquiry would be about green fishing like, like the darker green in particular, does the color make a difference versus clear line in clear freshwater fishing?
I fish primarily BFS, and I gotta say life is so much easier when you look at diameter over poundage. JDM lines are rated with the P.E system, and I alway go for P.E 0.6. You won't cast at further with such light line by going lower. It's true that Japanese brands are more precise with line break rates, so if you're going for the IGFA record JDM is where it's at. I've always found western brands to over rate their lines. I'm a huge fan of the Sufix 131, but it's very obvious that their 4lb line is more closer to 9lb breaking strength.
Thank's for the Video Tim. I fish a lot of spinning gear and was wondering what's an easy casting and slick line I can use. The regular power Pro 4 strand is awfully noisy and I got to believe it's cutting down on my casting. Would appreciate any suggestions to get the most out of my casting distance and performance with my spinning gear.
Tim, The more I fish I changed most of my reels all braid with 75 yards of JDM fluorocarbon on top, And I just changing the fluorocarbon when needed, it is easy specially with varivas double spools. Except two rods frog and punching which all braid with short leaders.
For my BFS Braid to Leader I have had good luck with the FG knot, however I have been using the "no name knot" to great effect. I received the instructions on how to tie it from the packaging of JDM Fluorocarbon shock leader I purchased, it can be found online as well and I recommend anyone interested to check it out. Also thanks for posting this video and sharing your knowledge with fellow anglers!
I just don’t have the energy to deal with line complexity and permutations. Kudos to all you guys who can manage that. How do you find the time? Is it really worth it? I just throw braid and catch bass. Maybe I miss some here and there if it is visible. But i still catch em. Unless it is salt water. Then I do tie leaders to lures and hook to a swivel snap on braid.
Hey Matt and Tim! Love yalls videos, and really value your gear reviews/knowledge. I have a video idea, if you’ll consider it. In your buyers guides you talk about good rod lines. You rave about exprides, Megabass, g. Loomis, etc. I think it would be cool to do rod lineup walkthroughs where you talk about each rod in the lineup and what it is good for! I’d certainly love to watch that for expride, and Diablo XX, etc. Thanks for all the info and awesome videos!
Thanks Tim. I tried braid a couple years ago and while casting my deeper sonar the line snaps mid distance and had to borrow a boat to get it. Couple of years later decided to give braid a try again. On the first day out the line snapped throwing a 3/4 oz deracoup and lost that lure, then on the day lost another lure. It seems that somehow the line is cutting it self. I use DC reels set on zero side to side play. I did notice that the fluorocarbon seems to cast farther than the braid. I fish gravel pits most of the time and casting distance really important as no boats are allowed. Would love to see you guys have a show on gravel pits someday!
Hey Tim..great video! Just wondering - have you ever tried the Red Philips knot? I've been using it lately and really like it. Easy enough to tie and really strong. Best part is that it's really tiny. Gets through my rod's micro guides as if there was no knot at all.
Double uni knot for connecting braid to leader. Palomar knot for leader to lure. I tie it on everything from 65lb braid to 10lb braid. I tried the blood knot but it slips on me too much. Also tried the clinch knot but cast too many lures into the drink. Landed a 8.5lb bass this year in western mass on 40lb powerpro to 15lb seaguar red label. Pulled me into a tree on my kayak. Somehow I landed her!
Great vid. here's my question. how many lbs. of pressure can a fish generate. if im using 10lbs. line within a fight with a 4-5 lbs fish that can generate 10-15lbs of pressure, doesn't that exceed my line capacity?
Tim, knowing you prefer braid to leader for most applications, what is the reason y’all tend to use straight fluoro for jerkbaits? Always been curious.
I live in Michigan, where a lot of our lakes are very clear. I am older, and I like to use hi-vis yellow PowerPro Super 8 Slick braid on everything. I was wondering about what leader lengths you would suggest for me in the list you have shown in your transcript? Thanks in advance!!
I use braid to flouro for everything. Usually just red label seagar for the leader. Makes me wonder though, if I’m running 20lb braid, can I just downsize the leader for the “lighter line” effect? Usually I use 20 or 30lb suffix 832 to 15lb seagar red label. I’ve tried the seagar gold label a couple times lately and I like it too.
Something to note: mono will break down in the sun. You zuri hybrid will last about 1 year in Arizona sun, mono will last about 2 months before it starts breaking down. Yo zuri t7 has been tested by multiple 3rd parties to have the best break strength and abrasion resistance
I think a distinction with braid sensitivity needs to be made. If there’s any slack in braid you will not feel a thing Because it’s not stiff. Flouro you can feel some with some slack in it but braid has to be atleast semi taught for the great sensitivity since it’s only tensile sensitivity you’re feeling and not any compression sensitivity.
Braid for visibility to a fluoro leader for sensitivity, it’s usually a given if fishing straight braid to always keep a taut line (jig, t rig) the weight of the lure usually does that for you.
Tim, Tennessee bass must have micrometer eyes.... .08mm, the biggest difference in all the lines you compared, is 3 thousandths (.003") of an inch. I appreciate the information about which lines work best in different applications, but if I'm not fishing for IGFA class records, I want the best breaking strength in the class. When I can find it, I fish Maxima Chameleon. Great breaking strength, and pretty invisible in Clear Lake, unless it's a bright overhead sun Spring day.
You forgot Fly line (floating) and Leadcore 😂😂😂 JK. Great video. Love the blood knot. I usually use short leaders more and more. Monofilament and flourocarbon both break down over time so not shelf friendly. Also break down faster in heat and sun exposure. Flourocarbon can shatter in extremely cold weather especially if it has been fully stretched out.
It's been a curiosity for a long time but what is the different between a Fluorocarbon line and a Fluorocarbon leader? Both of them, mentioned 100% Fluorocarbon - from the price point, the Fluorocarbon line is much cheaper than the Fluorocarbon leader. Please be excused, my English is not good. Thank you very much.
Flourocarbon Leader is generally stiffer than your high end flouro like Tatsu. Usually more abrasion resistant is flouro leader. The only flouro line I would use for leader is Gama because it’s strong. Anything else I’m using flourocarbon leader line like Seaguar or shock leader.
Braid Seaguar Lure 8 PE,Sunline Siglon X8 PE, Super 8 PE, Daiwa Saltiga 12 Braid ( 0,4,-06 for spinnig gear and PE 6 for Big Swimmbaits) and fluoro Seaguar R18 Bass Fluoro( 160m and 240m spools) same price like Sunline Sniper our Shooter, but smoother more like the Tatsu.
Hey guys I had a quick question about leaders. I was in bass pro the other day looking at flourocarbon for leaders. They had stuff in smaller rolls marketed as leader line. Is there really a difference between something marketed as that or is it the same as a big regular spool?
I typically fish ponds and only take one combo with me. Two if I'm getting serious. I need line that is good for many setups, even if it isn't perfectly optimal. I also hate the way FC casts, so it's braid to flouro leader for me.
i have tried them all and personally best bang for the buck has been yo-zuri. i'll get the premium yo-zuri for anything under 10lb test. 10 bux a spool. their super braid is great too :)
Just a personal preference, but I like to add a drop of superglue on my connection knots. I run long leaders so the knot passes through the guides on every cast. The glue helps give a little protective coating to the knot
@youtubzkoz I re-tie all leaders before a trip. Kind of my "fishing trip eve" routine. Which is another reason I use braid to leader. Braid lasts longer and I can just swap my leader if I decide to do a different technique
Ive gottem away from flouro leaders. The stuff gets "sprung" so easily and a good bite will have you retying as much as you fish which can also be problematic as a kink in your line will weaken it significantly too. Went to a more forgiving hybrid and have been much happier.
I seriously hate the way American line is rated. The way they rate line in Japan (by diameter) would make it so much easier to compare different lines.
I normally set my drag about 30% of the rated strength of the line so the drag slips before i hit the breaking point of the line since most of the main pressure is in the hook set accelerating a static object to fast as possible to drive the hook home its a explosive action versus a controled tension when fighting the fish
And one thing is the actual line diameter vs the manufacturer claimed diameter. At least in braided lines the difference between those two can be signicant. If you don't pay attention you can choose a 150% stronger line in a certain line diameter but end up using a line that is 200% of the claimed diameter.
I totally lost my fish of a lifetime due to a line mistake... after catching about 15 fish on my vision 110 jr (one of those jerkbait days matt talks about) i set the hook on a giant (for my area in the midwest) probably 6-7lber got her closer to shore where i can just see her and the line went snap... i run braid to leader on jerkbaits... it wasnt my blood knot that broke either i use blood and the sd jam knots... but anyway i didnt retie... and i shouldve i kept finding these schools and all excited i couldnt not keep throwing back in
Let me interrupt you, for your BEGINNING ANGELRS: go with a 12lb monofilament for general fishing techniques i.e., Texas-rigging, cast-n-retrieve lures. If you have a second combo for finesse techniques, save your money and spool up a spinning reel with 8lb copolymer. Benefits of mono and fluoro. But if you have a baitcasting combo, use a light weight fluorocarbon for stealthiness techniques. Don't throw any jigs too heavy on it because with light fluorocarbon, it is just going to break off when you get snagged. Fishing from shore has higher percentage of getting snagged or least harder to get UN-snagged than if you were on the water. Now, braid, good for throwing frogs and, pitching and flipping into heavy cover. Many anglers prefer it for many reasons but it limits your combo to more technique specific because most anglers use a stiff rod for those 2 previously listed techniques. To start out, monofilament costs less to learn on. Copolymer has great casting distance from shore and a little stronger than mono. Fluorocarbon has strong pros but lighter weighted lines don't like spinning reels; mates better with baitcaster but beginners will have to learn to have patience learning how to balance the spool tension, drag, and lure weight. Because of all the varying techniques and conditions, is why you see anglers with so many fishing rods. I have 5 combos and right now and use heavier line because it is fall fishing baby! Later in the winter and the early spring I will spool the spinning rod with copolymer.
Big game mono for the winter win. Everyone talks about stretch when they're making super light weight 7 and a half foot rods and high speed reels. But we need flouro? Shoddy knot strength compared to mono. Not knocking tim but this shit is so expensive. Braid to mono until the freeze temps. Then mono. Fish arent that wild when its 7 degrees blowing across watauga and my damiki rig sinks just fine on mono. Blade baits too. Same with jigs.
Definitely did not touch enough on copolymer. Inexpensive and bridges the gap between mono and flouro. For cranking where you are changing line out a lot because of abrasion, copolymer is a fantastic option. Also when using braid to copolymer leader it is much more forgiving on hookset break offs than braid to flouro. Izorline is a really good quality option and might be about the best bang for the buck. Every line type has its place, i just dont think this video explains where copolymer fits in.
The braillist they are talking about is the Expride line. It's the same action and power throughout the lines just changes to higher quality components going up from levante.
Tim, you are so spot on about the line diameter vs lbs test the line is. What does the IGFA go by, pound test the line says or by diameter of the line?
As a lure junkie, I've tried just about every line made...in fact, even got into a serious line addiction once 😂 each line has advantages & disadvantages.....basically no line is better than another in my opinion...it's an angler's preference & the angler's technique/lures ultimately will decide how successful they are, not the line....Fluoro's more invisible & sensitive.. advantages.. now, it's disadvantages..overpriced, randomly breaks if not changed VERY often, and weaker knot strength...Mono's advantages...cheaper, great knot strength, and great holding power fighting fish...disadvantages...some say stretch, memory, and the biggest disadvantage...Pros not using it, which brainwashes many anglers...braid...advantages...strong, no stretch for certain lures, sensitive...disadvantages...visible, in many cases no stretch, and frays/lodges in woody cover....at the end of the day, Mono is my choice...catch plenty of bass, NEVER broke off on a bass (unlike braid), and never broke on a hookset randomly (unlike fluoro)....mono will be on 99% of my 30 reels from now on
@castandchill I've had no issue feeling bites on bottom type lures like jigs/worms....having a lightweight rod is the key to most soft plastics/bottom bouncing type baits..Larry Nixon, the greatest worm fisherman of all time used 14-17 lb. Mono...Denny Brauer, best jig fishermen used mono before braid/fluoro...today's mono is far better than back then, as well...The price isn't ridiculous, which allows me to change it 3,4 times/season with fresh line...today's pro's likely change out their line every week, some probably twice/week....When it's free, u can do that...obviously sponsors will push the more expensive line & that's the job of the pros to push that to the consumers...Fluoro gets weakened after every fish catch, snag, weight of heavier lures, unlike mono which has a controlled stretch...I don't watch bass tournaments today, with FFS being the "technique" 99% of the time, but pro's were breaking off far more than they should using fluoro
I FINALLY FOUND SOME MAXIMA ULTRA GREEN!!!!! Ahhhhhh!!!!!!! 😂😂😂😂❤❤❤❤ Edit: Aw dangit….I got 8lb instead of 12-15lb…..ahh well, just gotta be more careful with the big girls!
My bet is, the US system is based on...lawsuits. If they made a line and said "8lb breaking strength" and it breaks at 8.3lbs brand new, 6 months to a year later it might degrade to 7.5lbs. Some lawsuit happy American would sue for false advertisement, so they make the line stronger. Just my guess.
Then why not base the line on the actual size (diameter) and then label an estimated strength ratio. Also the difference in tensile and abrasion strength is insane when it comes to braid with power pro being one of the biggest differences (10lb braid having a 30lb tensile strength and a 8lb abrasion ratio lol with a 200% diameter difference from the package
Don't listen to them. Most of the heads here are gear snobs. Copolymer casts farther than mono and costs less than fluorocarbon. I use it in the summer when finesse fishing with my spinning reel combo from shore. For most fishermen, budget-friendly line is good enough. Don't go crazy and believe that you have to spend $32+ for a spool of line.
Gamma Fluorocarbon for me. Ask any real flipper,Hackney,Tharpe,,,its Gamma for flipping fluoro. 16# Gamma is basically 22# line. For true flippers its simply the best.
@ Without going into some long comment ima just say a true flipper is someone who always puts the flipping bite first. No trebles until day 3 of practice so to say. A true flipper can go a week straight,8-9 hours a day flipping with no bites and be fine with it. Anybody can flip but how many can do it all day with no bites and not move on to something else? Is their heaviest weight 3/8’s or 2oz? The mental side of flipping is just as important as the gear itself,more important on some lakes. Now me for example I got about 15-16 combos in front of me right now and every single rod except for 1 is for flipping,jigs and frogs. And even the jig rods get used for flipping 3/8-1/2oz jigs.That 1 extra rod is for weightless zoom magnum trick worms period. Ive got a rod for heavy mono and fluoro,I got braid only rods,ive got rods for 12-17# fluoro only. Even my frog rods are flipping sticks,hell,they got ac3/4 tungsten,3/4 flipping jig,1/2oz flipping jig and a paddle tail swimbait on them now. A flipper is gonna flip regardless and they will have their own system from the rod to the reel to the line to the weight. I flip a 7’H all the way to a 7’11”H. A flipper is a flipper,a cranker is a cranker ect ect ect. Well,id say thats long enough. Hope you understood my point of view. I live next to a lake I call treble hook city and uh,,,,I flip it. I havnt used treble hooks in years. If I just want to get bit that bad ill pull the flashy swimmers out. I need 3 new 7’11”H’s. My big Croixs handles are just to short. Enjoy.
I bet no line class records are on big game 🎉 that's the difference for some. Plus flourocarbon is stronger and casts better. Similar diameter the flouro is always higher lb test. 6-8lb mono is 12-14lb flouro. That's the difference. Plus sink vs float and what not.
JDM lines are not reliable either. Varivas esters break 20-25% lower than label. Varivas fluorocarbons break 15-20% above label. YGK is exactly the same way - ester breaks 25% below label, fluorocarbon higher than label. YGK is now owned by Daiwa so next year should be available in US stores and i guess will no longer be JDM
Diawa is JDM lol Like he said in the video jdm is usually smaller diameter and more accurate than US lines. For igfa line class records. They test them out on machines. And usually breakage on the water has nothing to do with the line and all about the various variables. Knot, cover, abrasion, checking line, reties, etc.
i don't know why you replied to my comment, you obviously don't know what JDM is. Daiwa has JDM models and has US models. It also has european models, and it has models specific for china. Also, the numbers i provide come from my own tester.
@ifishcatfish the company is Japanese. Thus, JDM (JapaneseDomesticMarket). Although they have area models doesn't change the fact it's originally jdm , usually made in Korea or China. Most of the lines are tested on high end testers out of range of normal people so ... doubt you are using the same. But whatever 🙄
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Looking forward to the buyers guide! There is one thing I learned a long time ago, DO NOT FUDGE ON LINE! The line and hooks are the difference in a great day and a crappy day!
Been using Power Pro & Power Pro Super Slick for years and it works great for me and my fishing and body of water. Every setup has braid and some have fluro leaders. Simple and works for me
The only complaint I have with power pro is fade. Their hi vis line fades in a couple days of use
@@rodneyrandolph2128who cares makes it more clear lol
Thanks Tim,The blood knot tool cost 8 bucks on line and when i am in the wind,sun is in my eyes that little brass square with a plastic pin does a perfect knot in 10 seconds every time.Looking forward to the buyers guides,hope this helps someone out.
Gonna check that out
What’s it called
@@Jayslayz_ Dennison blood knot tool
I've used nothing but monofilament line for the past almost 50 years. This is what my father used when he taught my brother and I how to fish back when we were kids and I've used it ever since with great results.
I use it for jungle urban fishing because it's stretchability helps getting unsnagged and has good strength for the fish found there; no double digits there.
tried all the fancy stuff and always comeback to pline cxx
I settled on Sunline about 4 years ago... I basically only use 4 of them Shooter, Sniper, Xplasma, and the AMZ X8. I just started messing around with the Almight line and been really impressed only down side is it's such a thin diameter braid you really have to pay attention to any nicks. Great video as always keepem coming guys!!!
Alberto all the way. Never had it fail on me once and I can do it with cold fingers easily.
I’ve been using the FG for years now, I’ve gotten to where I can tie it very quickly and easily even in the wind and chop, and now that I’ve been doing it for so long I can tell when it’s not a good knot just by looking at it. But I learned that by a LOT of trial and error and even more heartbreak lol. Great video Tim, excellent tips and info!
I can't wait for the buyers guides.
Neither can they😂
Have you used the new daiwa samauri braid? Thats the only braid I like as it’s smooth, quite & casts a mile. Also keeps color well.
Love the buyers guide vids, helps get me through the winter time here in northern illinois
I used invizx for about 5 years and then I started having issues like something had changed in formula. I switched to FC sniper and yo-zuri T7 ,both are great with T7 being the strongest. Double Sand jam works great with all fluorocarbon lines.Now if fish are active line size doesn't matter but on those bluebird days lighter line prevails. Double Alberto is the most consistent connection knot for me,I know you guys like the blood knot. Appreciate you guys!
Bass fishing almost three years now and ive watched your knot-rope video so many times until i got it down. Great tutorial 👍
Always the best Tim, thanks.
Wow, this is the first of your videos, that left me not knowing whether to crap or go blind ! I think those who have a good grip on fishing and line choices, probably got a lot out of this...that was not the case for me. I do however have to thank you for so much that I have learned watching your videos.
As an intermediate angler, I really appreciate this video. There's so many options and line selection can get overwhelming, this will definitely help. I've learned quite a lot from you and Matt, thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge. By the way, where can I get one of those hats???
Started using the defiant shock leader fluro. Best stuff I used so far. Spooked up 3 reels with their braid. Smaller diameter than most so looking to see how it performs
Not an expert, however, it’s worth mentioning to those using the modified blood knot it works tons better with line close to a similar diameter. Great work however, and amazing info as always, keep it up!
Thanks!
I like what you said about braid. You keep it forever. That’s why I’ve invested in the CAST braid, literally the smoothest on the market and I’ve kept it on some reels for multiple years. Premium price, but it’s worth the extra coin for sure
The Daiichi FG knot tool is a game changer. Especially tying small floro to small braid.
Double blood knot is what I use on my bigger line also! I also use uni to uni on small line! For about 7 years and yes I started using the double blood knot after watching a video y’all made all them years ago lol
Inshore fishing opened my eyes on mono. ANY time I’m around thick heavy cover mono is my new go to. I’d rather stretch around the structure than have no stretch around it. I couldn’t believe it until I switched from fluoro to mono leader and started landing fish from under concrete piers.
The buyers guides are awesome and fun. I’m a big fan of Berkeley big game mono. Also kk tripolymer has been good to me as well lately. Love braid to a leader when river fishing. My only inquiry would be about green fishing like, like the darker green in particular, does the color make a difference versus clear line in clear freshwater fishing?
Excellent video presentation on a commodity that can be overlooked.
Thank you for sharing excellent material from your fishing experiences.
Great video thank you so much for coming back to these basics!
I fish primarily BFS, and I gotta say life is so much easier when you look at diameter over poundage. JDM lines are rated with the P.E system, and I alway go for P.E 0.6. You won't cast at further with such light line by going lower. It's true that Japanese brands are more precise with line break rates, so if you're going for the IGFA record JDM is where it's at. I've always found western brands to over rate their lines. I'm a huge fan of the Sufix 131, but it's very obvious that their 4lb line is more closer to 9lb breaking strength.
Thank's for the Video Tim. I fish a lot of spinning gear and was wondering what's an easy casting and slick line I can use. The regular power Pro 4 strand is awfully noisy and I got to believe it's cutting down on my casting. Would appreciate any suggestions to get the most out of my casting distance and performance with my spinning gear.
Very detailed explanation. Thanks.
Tim, The more I fish I changed most of my reels all braid with 75 yards of JDM fluorocarbon on top, And I just changing the fluorocarbon when needed, it is easy specially with varivas double spools. Except two rods frog and punching which all braid with short leaders.
The suffix 131 is a game changer! I also like that new daiwa samurai braid
Great video Tim,
Thank u 👍👍👍
For my BFS Braid to Leader I have had good luck with the FG knot, however I have been using the "no name knot" to great effect. I received the instructions on how to tie it from the packaging of JDM Fluorocarbon shock leader I purchased, it can be found online as well and I recommend anyone interested to check it out. Also thanks for posting this video and sharing your knowledge with fellow anglers!
I just don’t have the energy to deal with line complexity and permutations. Kudos to all you guys who can manage that. How do you find the time? Is it really worth it? I just throw braid and catch bass. Maybe I miss some here and there if it is visible. But i still catch em.
Unless it is salt water. Then I do tie leaders to lures and hook to a swivel snap on braid.
Hey Matt and Tim! Love yalls videos, and really value your gear reviews/knowledge. I have a video idea, if you’ll consider it. In your buyers guides you talk about good rod lines. You rave about exprides, Megabass, g. Loomis, etc. I think it would be cool to do rod lineup walkthroughs where you talk about each rod in the lineup and what it is good for! I’d certainly love to watch that for expride, and Diablo XX, etc. Thanks for all the info and awesome videos!
Great vedio like the breakdown of all the line and how it's used great stuff 👍 👌 👏
Thanks Tim. I tried braid a couple years ago and while casting my deeper sonar the line snaps mid distance and had to borrow a boat to get it. Couple of years later decided to give braid a try again. On the first day out the line snapped throwing a 3/4 oz deracoup and lost that lure, then on the day lost another lure. It seems that somehow the line is cutting it self. I use DC reels set on zero side to side play. I did notice that the fluorocarbon seems to cast farther than the braid. I fish gravel pits most of the time and casting distance really important as no boats are allowed. Would love to see you guys have a show on gravel pits someday!
Rocks and braid don't mix. Braid is for vegetation. Braid doesn't play well with wood either.
Great stuff! Do you use backing (mono) on your spinning reels for braid to Flouro?
What’s up I loved your videos. Thanks for getting me into fishing and watching your video right now.
Very important episode I need to learn that blood knot happy Friday tim !
I tried suffix advance flouro this year. Nothing but good things to say. Definitely will be buying more.
Hey Tim..great video! Just wondering - have you ever tried the Red Philips knot? I've been using it lately and really like it. Easy enough to tie and really strong. Best part is that it's really tiny. Gets through my rod's micro guides as if there was no knot at all.
Power pro been my go to for 15 years now, does fade after a while but that stuff last forever
Double uni knot for connecting braid to leader. Palomar knot for leader to lure. I tie it on everything from 65lb braid to 10lb braid. I tried the blood knot but it slips on me too much. Also tried the clinch knot but cast too many lures into the drink. Landed a 8.5lb bass this year in western mass on 40lb powerpro to 15lb seaguar red label. Pulled me into a tree on my kayak. Somehow I landed her!
Looks like Tim might’ve knocked on his top 5 for November and the line video in one sitting haha
Great vid. here's my question. how many lbs. of pressure can a fish generate. if im using 10lbs. line within a fight with a 4-5 lbs fish that can generate 10-15lbs of pressure, doesn't that exceed my line capacity?
What are your favorite hollow body swimbaits that you n Matt would recommend
Thanks for great info
Been waiting on another one of these
Tim, knowing you prefer braid to leader for most applications, what is the reason y’all tend to use straight fluoro for jerkbaits? Always been curious.
Line twist on spinning reels was always terrible. Know braid to leader on spinning reels has made a days fishing a lot more enjoyable 😎
I live in Michigan, where a lot of our lakes are very clear. I am older, and I like to use hi-vis yellow PowerPro Super 8 Slick braid on everything. I was wondering about what leader lengths you would suggest for me in the list you have shown in your transcript? Thanks in advance!!
8-12 feet of leader at a minimum in those clear fisheries.
I use braid to flouro for everything. Usually just red label seagar for the leader. Makes me wonder though, if I’m running 20lb braid, can I just downsize the leader for the “lighter line” effect? Usually I use 20 or 30lb suffix 832 to 15lb seagar red label. I’ve tried the seagar gold label a couple times lately and I like it too.
What scale do you guys recommend for weighing catches? looking for the most accurate/ reliable scale…thanks
Something to note: mono will break down in the sun. You zuri hybrid will last about 1 year in Arizona sun, mono will last about 2 months before it starts breaking down.
Yo zuri t7 has been tested by multiple 3rd parties to have the best break strength and abrasion resistance
In AZ as well. That sun is something. Yo zuri is a copoly??
You would want to look at diameter and wether it is good line for WR line class records.
@@youtubzkoz T7 is 100% Flouro.
You might be thinking of Yozuri Hybrid which is copolymer. Both are great.
What’s your recommended line set up for the karashi ?
I think a distinction with braid sensitivity needs to be made. If there’s any slack in braid you will not feel a thing Because it’s not stiff. Flouro you can feel some with some slack in it but braid has to be atleast semi taught for the great sensitivity since it’s only tensile sensitivity you’re feeling and not any compression sensitivity.
Braid for visibility to a fluoro leader for sensitivity, it’s usually a given if fishing straight braid to always keep a taut line (jig, t rig) the weight of the lure usually does that for you.
Keeping the line semi-slack and line watching are two things you need to learn when fishing braid.
@@christopherascherl2411 thank you for literally repeating what I said.
@@rodneyrandolph2128 Sorry for being more succint and complete.
Three weeks of buyers guides😮 I see a divorce on my horizon
😂😂😂
I know a good hit man in case she takes more then here share 😜
That was 4 years ago for me so I’m good! Lmao
Hey and don’t forget this dawg, you deserve it king, ball out on that shiny shib that catches your eye
Ha 😂😂
Great information. Bassmd
Tim, Tennessee bass must have micrometer eyes....
.08mm, the biggest difference in all the lines you compared, is 3 thousandths (.003") of an inch.
I appreciate the information about which lines work best in different applications, but if I'm not fishing for IGFA class records, I want the best breaking strength in the class.
When I can find it, I fish Maxima Chameleon. Great breaking strength, and pretty invisible in Clear Lake, unless it's a bright overhead sun Spring day.
What knot it recommended for heavier 20# flouro with 65-80# braid?
Thanks.
You forgot Fly line (floating) and Leadcore 😂😂😂 JK. Great video.
Love the blood knot. I usually use short leaders more and more.
Monofilament and flourocarbon both break down over time so not shelf friendly. Also break down faster in heat and sun exposure.
Flourocarbon can shatter in extremely cold weather especially if it has been fully stretched out.
It's been a curiosity for a long time but what is the different between a Fluorocarbon line and a Fluorocarbon leader? Both of them, mentioned 100% Fluorocarbon - from the price point, the Fluorocarbon line is much cheaper than the Fluorocarbon leader. Please be excused, my English is not good. Thank you very much.
Flourocarbon Leader is generally stiffer than your high end flouro like Tatsu. Usually more abrasion resistant is flouro leader. The only flouro line I would use for leader is Gama because it’s strong. Anything else I’m using flourocarbon leader line like Seaguar or shock leader.
Braid Seaguar Lure 8 PE,Sunline Siglon X8 PE, Super 8 PE, Daiwa Saltiga 12 Braid ( 0,4,-06 for spinnig gear and PE 6 for Big Swimmbaits) and fluoro Seaguar R18 Bass Fluoro( 160m and 240m spools) same price like Sunline Sniper our Shooter, but smoother more like the Tatsu.
Hey guys I had a quick question about leaders. I was in bass pro the other day looking at flourocarbon for leaders. They had stuff in smaller rolls marketed as leader line. Is there really a difference between something marketed as that or is it the same as a big regular spool?
What about Fireline? Opinion and use?
I typically fish ponds and only take one combo with me. Two if I'm getting serious. I need line that is good for many setups, even if it isn't perfectly optimal. I also hate the way FC casts, so it's braid to flouro leader for me.
FG knot is hard to beat if you have the patience for it…otherwise the Alberto or uni is my go to when out in the field
i have tried them all and personally best bang for the buck has been yo-zuri. i'll get the premium yo-zuri for anything under 10lb test. 10 bux a spool. their super braid is great too :)
Just a personal preference, but I like to add a drop of superglue on my connection knots. I run long leaders so the knot passes through the guides on every cast. The glue helps give a little protective coating to the knot
Careful, over time it can break down easily using glues.
@youtubzkoz I re-tie all leaders before a trip. Kind of my "fishing trip eve" routine. Which is another reason I use braid to leader. Braid lasts longer and I can just swap my leader if I decide to do a different technique
On a scale of 1 - 10, how important is it to have line diameters the same size for connection knots?
Ive gottem away from flouro leaders. The stuff gets "sprung" so easily and a good bite will have you retying as much as you fish which can also be problematic as a kink in your line will weaken it significantly too. Went to a more forgiving hybrid and have been much happier.
I seriously hate the way American line is rated. The way they rate line in Japan (by diameter) would make it so much easier to compare different lines.
I normally set my drag about 30% of the rated strength of the line so the drag slips before i hit the breaking point of the line since most of the main pressure is in the hook set accelerating a static object to fast as possible to drive the hook home its a explosive action versus a controled tension when fighting the fish
Wish more companies did short leader spools
Was hoping you would cover when you throw straight mono or flouro rather than braid to leader. Good info though.
And one thing is the actual line diameter vs the manufacturer claimed diameter. At least in braided lines the difference between those two can be signicant. If you don't pay attention you can choose a 150% stronger line in a certain line diameter but end up using a line that is 200% of the claimed diameter.
I totally lost my fish of a lifetime due to a line mistake... after catching about 15 fish on my vision 110 jr (one of those jerkbait days matt talks about) i set the hook on a giant (for my area in the midwest) probably 6-7lber got her closer to shore where i can just see her and the line went snap... i run braid to leader on jerkbaits... it wasnt my blood knot that broke either i use blood and the sd jam knots... but anyway i didnt retie... and i shouldve i kept finding these schools and all excited i couldnt not keep throwing back in
Braid to topshot gang, where ya at?
Let me interrupt you, for your BEGINNING ANGELRS: go with a 12lb monofilament for general fishing techniques i.e., Texas-rigging, cast-n-retrieve lures. If you have a second combo for finesse techniques, save your money and spool up a spinning reel with 8lb copolymer. Benefits of mono and fluoro.
But if you have a baitcasting combo, use a light weight fluorocarbon for stealthiness techniques. Don't throw any jigs too heavy on it because with light fluorocarbon, it is just going to break off when you get snagged. Fishing from shore has higher percentage of getting snagged or least harder to get UN-snagged than if you were on the water. Now, braid, good for throwing frogs and, pitching and flipping into heavy cover. Many anglers prefer it for many reasons but it limits your combo to more technique specific because most anglers use a stiff rod for those 2 previously listed techniques.
To start out, monofilament costs less to learn on. Copolymer has great casting distance from shore and a little stronger than mono. Fluorocarbon has strong pros but lighter weighted lines don't like spinning reels; mates better with baitcaster but beginners will have to learn to have patience learning how to balance the spool tension, drag, and lure weight. Because of all the varying techniques and conditions, is why you see anglers with so many fishing rods.
I have 5 combos and right now and use heavier line because it is fall fishing baby! Later in the winter and the early spring I will spool the spinning rod with copolymer.
Big game mono for the winter win. Everyone talks about stretch when they're making super light weight 7 and a half foot rods and high speed reels. But we need flouro? Shoddy knot strength compared to mono. Not knocking tim but this shit is so expensive. Braid to mono until the freeze temps. Then mono. Fish arent that wild when its 7 degrees blowing across watauga and my damiki rig sinks just fine on mono. Blade baits too. Same with jigs.
Definitely did not touch enough on copolymer. Inexpensive and bridges the gap between mono and flouro. For cranking where you are changing line out a lot because of abrasion, copolymer is a fantastic option. Also when using braid to copolymer leader it is much more forgiving on hookset break offs than braid to flouro. Izorline is a really good quality option and might be about the best bang for the buck. Every line type has its place, i just dont think this video explains where copolymer fits in.
Seaguar Smackdown is like using dock line for braid. Way too thick I’ll use 131
Good Info ~ I tie the Mite knot, Might hold, Might not. If you can't tie a knot, tie a lot . . . . . Going to be a long winter up here . . . .
How do people not pay attention to the line diameter when buying line. The diameter is crucial to your breaking strength
When you do the Rods and recommend the Bralist for jigs, you never give us the model or heavy? M Heavy?.....
The braillist they are talking about is the Expride line. It's the same action and power throughout the lines just changes to higher quality components going up from levante.
Tim, you are so spot on about the line diameter vs lbs test the line is. What does the IGFA go by, pound test the line says or by diameter of the line?
Neither. They do 3 actual break tests of your line sample, and you must be within spec for the line size you're trying to qualify for.
So you said that mono is more abrasion resistent than fluoro. Other youtubers have said the opposite. Can you shed some light on that, please?
How do you feel about adding a small amount of gorilla/crazy glue to you’re connection knot to make it stronger?
FG knot is very easy and quick to do, the more you do it. Do it 20-30’times and you’ll be able to do it with your eyes closed
As a lure junkie, I've tried just about every line made...in fact, even got into a serious line addiction once 😂 each line has advantages & disadvantages.....basically no line is better than another in my opinion...it's an angler's preference & the angler's technique/lures ultimately will decide how successful they are, not the line....Fluoro's more invisible & sensitive.. advantages.. now, it's disadvantages..overpriced, randomly breaks if not changed VERY often, and weaker knot strength...Mono's advantages...cheaper, great knot strength, and great holding power fighting fish...disadvantages...some say stretch, memory, and the biggest disadvantage...Pros not using it, which brainwashes many anglers...braid...advantages...strong, no stretch for certain lures, sensitive...disadvantages...visible, in many cases no stretch, and frays/lodges in woody cover....at the end of the day, Mono is my choice...catch plenty of bass, NEVER broke off on a bass (unlike braid), and never broke on a hookset randomly (unlike fluoro)....mono will be on 99% of my 30 reels from now on
even for bottom baits jigs trigs you feel like it's sensitive enough feeling bites?
@castandchill I've had no issue feeling bites on bottom type lures like jigs/worms....having a lightweight rod is the key to most soft plastics/bottom bouncing type baits..Larry Nixon, the greatest worm fisherman of all time used 14-17 lb. Mono...Denny Brauer, best jig fishermen used mono before braid/fluoro...today's mono is far better than back then, as well...The price isn't ridiculous, which allows me to change it 3,4 times/season with fresh line...today's pro's likely change out their line every week, some probably twice/week....When it's free, u can do that...obviously sponsors will push the more expensive line & that's the job of the pros to push that to the consumers...Fluoro gets weakened after every fish catch, snag, weight of heavier lures, unlike mono which has a controlled stretch...I don't watch bass tournaments today, with FFS being the "technique" 99% of the time, but pro's were breaking off far more than they should using fluoro
@@andybales7318 ok cool. pretty good info here. what brand of mono have you found to be the best ?
@@andybales7318whats your mono of choice ?
👍👍
Why high vis yellow on braid? Dont fish see that in clear water?
It's not for the fish. It's for the angler. Definitely a leader on yellow braid. It's to visually see bites with line jumps.
@youtubzkoz i understand that...just figured yellow in ultra clear water even with a leader would be considerably visible. Long leader for sure
I FINALLY FOUND SOME MAXIMA ULTRA GREEN!!!!!
Ahhhhhh!!!!!!! 😂😂😂😂❤❤❤❤
Edit: Aw dangit….I got 8lb instead of 12-15lb…..ahh well, just gotta be more careful with the big girls!
My bet is, the US system is based on...lawsuits. If they made a line and said "8lb breaking strength" and it breaks at 8.3lbs brand new, 6 months to a year later it might degrade to 7.5lbs. Some lawsuit happy American would sue for false advertisement, so they make the line stronger. Just my guess.
Then why not base the line on the actual size (diameter) and then label an estimated strength ratio.
Also the difference in tensile and abrasion strength is insane when it comes to braid with power pro being one of the biggest differences (10lb braid having a 30lb tensile strength and a 8lb abrasion ratio lol with a 200% diameter difference from the package
You never went over co-polymers🤷🏻♂️
Because no one seriously uses it
@@ElevatedAngler828 LOL LOL true
Don't listen to them. Most of the heads here are gear snobs. Copolymer casts farther than mono and costs less than fluorocarbon. I use it in the summer when finesse fishing with my spinning reel combo from shore. For most fishermen, budget-friendly line is good enough. Don't go crazy and believe that you have to spend $32+ for a spool of line.
amen
@@funkymojo11132$ ?? buy in bulk 184$ a spool... 😂😂😂 jk it's not for everyone. 50lb Cat on ,12lb flourocarbon is my jam.
Sprung. Ban the plastic slinky.
Gamma Fluorocarbon for me. Ask any real flipper,Hackney,Tharpe,,,its Gamma for flipping fluoro. 16# Gamma is basically 22# line. For true flippers its simply the best.
What defines a "true flipper?" Just curious 🤷♂️
@ Without going into some long comment ima just say a true flipper is someone who always puts the flipping bite first. No trebles until day 3 of practice so to say. A true flipper can go a week straight,8-9 hours a day flipping with no bites and be fine with it. Anybody can flip but how many can do it all day with no bites and not move on to something else? Is their heaviest weight 3/8’s or 2oz? The mental side of flipping is just as important as the gear itself,more important on some lakes. Now me for example I got about 15-16 combos in front of me right now and every single rod except for 1 is for flipping,jigs and frogs. And even the jig rods get used for flipping 3/8-1/2oz jigs.That 1 extra rod is for weightless zoom magnum trick worms period. Ive got a rod for heavy mono and fluoro,I got braid only rods,ive got rods for 12-17# fluoro only. Even my frog rods are flipping sticks,hell,they got ac3/4 tungsten,3/4 flipping jig,1/2oz flipping jig and a paddle tail swimbait on them now. A flipper is gonna flip regardless and they will have their own system from the rod to the reel to the line to the weight. I flip a 7’H all the way to a 7’11”H. A flipper is a flipper,a cranker is a cranker ect ect ect. Well,id say thats long enough. Hope you understood my point of view. I live next to a lake I call treble hook city and uh,,,,I flip it. I havnt used treble hooks in years. If I just want to get bit that bad ill pull the flashy swimmers out. I need 3 new 7’11”H’s. My big Croixs handles are just to short. Enjoy.
Berkley big game for the win...these 35$ spools of line are idiotic
I bet no line class records are on big game 🎉 that's the difference for some. Plus flourocarbon is stronger and casts better. Similar diameter the flouro is always higher lb test. 6-8lb mono is 12-14lb flouro. That's the difference. Plus sink vs float and what not.
JDM lines are not reliable either. Varivas esters break 20-25% lower than label. Varivas fluorocarbons break 15-20% above label. YGK is exactly the same way - ester breaks 25% below label, fluorocarbon higher than label. YGK is now owned by Daiwa so next year should be available in US stores and i guess will no longer be JDM
Diawa is JDM lol
Like he said in the video jdm is usually smaller diameter and more accurate than US lines. For igfa line class records. They test them out on machines. And usually breakage on the water has nothing to do with the line and all about the various variables. Knot, cover, abrasion, checking line, reties, etc.
i don't know why you replied to my comment, you obviously don't know what JDM is. Daiwa has JDM models and has US models. It also has european models, and it has models specific for china. Also, the numbers i provide come from my own tester.
@ifishcatfish the company is Japanese. Thus, JDM (JapaneseDomesticMarket). Although they have area models doesn't change the fact it's originally jdm , usually made in Korea or China. Most of the lines are tested on high end testers out of range of normal people so ... doubt you are using the same. But whatever 🙄