Great video! I love that you left the human error part and had to redrop the housing to do it right! This is the best video! Please keep up the good work!
I’m not bothering with watching any other videos on impeller replacement. My 07 25hp 4 stroke stopped pumping water today while doing a little mid winter idle in the driveway. You are so through that I could almost do this for the first time blindfolded. 😅
Best video ive found on this. Thank you. My kit came with gaskets and orings that must be for a different model so it was nice to see one like mine online.
Basically if I need to do something and I cant find a good video I just make one for other people to use. There is almost no coverage of the NEWER boat motors. Everything is for the old ones.
Thanks. Very good Video. I just removed my bottom end on a 60HP a few days ago. Got my new kit from Amazon ( quicksilver ) and was wondering about the re-install of the lower end after I replace the impeller and gaskets etc. Took mine out in neutral. Hope it goes back in as easy as your's did.
Very, very helpful amigo - thanks for doing this! Great trick on using the jack as well. I gotta say that the basics are all the same for a 2016 Mercury 60 4 stroke. I sure envy you being able to stab the assembly right up there on the first try. I had to struggle with mine...
you can use a little dab of marine grease to help hold the plate, gaskets and key in place and lined up for bolts. also inside housing to aid putting the new impeller in.
My first impeller lasted 15 years, and still looked okay - not great mind you, but okay. It had one very small chip on the tip of one blade. Since then however, I have replaced it about every 3 years.
Not a single marina I've ever worked at ever ran any boat dry... maybe you had a bad experience somewhere but that's certainly not something we do in the industry. Further more you have a bonding issue with your boat which is why all the paint is coming off your lower unit, might want to figure that one out before it gets worse.
Thanks for the video, will be doing my 2016 mercury 75hp four stroke impeller soon. I notice my lower unit paint is peeling in the exact same way as yours is lol.
I can not get the 14mm bolt loose from the bottom on my new engine. Is it reverse thread or something? Is it just extra tight? It will not loosen and I am afraid I will break it.
I wish I had seen you do the actual drop. I’m all set to do it. It would just be nice to know how to pull the nuts off the bolts. Are you physically propping it up? You can't pull a nut off with stressing anything remaining. PS your vid was well done and I learned a lot.
Great video! I'm about to try on a 50hp 4stroke. Should I be worried about getting the fin back in place right? Do I mark it? Right now it looks to be perfectly centered with the shaft of motor? Is the fin critical during this process? Thanks!
Thank you SO much!! You made this so clear and easy to follow along with!! The jack tip... That is worth a pot of gold LOL Slightly off topic - Any clue to find out what (or where the info is) my gear ratio is? I have a 2012 60 ELPT 4 Stroke... And I have the $$$ manual and it lists two different gear ratios. Thanks again!
Mine stops about 1/4 inch from being flush. Mercury 90 4 stroke 2016. Makes no sense. No matter how many times I spin prop and I make sure my shifter is in 1st as well as my shaft. About ready to just put one nut on and crank this shit down and hope it all works out.
I’m confused. I’ve watched several videos that say turn the drive shaft clockwise while installing impeller into housing which would have the fins bent the opposite direction of yours
Whatever direction is the correct direction. You can use your old one as a guide. If in doubt bump the starter on the motor and see what direction it turns and use that as a guide the outer fins should be dragging and not pushing
@@buildsomethingstupid1736 I figured that part out. Now please help me figure out why I have water in my engine oil now. I don’t know how I could have screwed up that bad but apparently I did. Lol
Great video I love the tips you give will come in handy …. One question should you keep in neutral when sliding off or put in gear ( I know you mentioned to keep in neutral). Because it seems like you had put in forward gear to line up when putting back on. Have you done any belt change outs yet they say at 300 hrs? Would love to see more videos on 300 hr maintenance 😁 before I screw this up next week!
Doesn't matter what gear you use as long as it matches the lower units gear. I did put it in forward, this allows you to spin the prop and make the shaft turn so it lines up the splines easier. As soon as you put it up and start a bolt or two go to the helm and go thru the gears and makes sure it moves and engages correctly
@buildsomethingstupid does your shifter shaft moves on its on in neutral? mine does and im having trouble with the gears after putting the lower unit back in
You can put the shifter in gear as long as you match that on the lower unit. Then obviously test the full range of motion in the shifter and make sure the gears operate as they should.
The only thing I would do differently is put the impeller on the shaft first then twist the drive shaft clockwise while pushing down and setting the housing. Additionally I would have put some waterproof Marine grease on all the spline shafts and the bolts.
He forgot to put on the shaft seal that goes on after the impeller housing is reinstalled. Check out the section starting at 5:10 mark. Then check the 14:20 mark when the lower unit is reinstalled ... oops! Hopefully this doesn't cause issue.
I notice you only replaced the o-ring on the white oil seal cone. Why wouldn't you replace the whole thing since there is an embedded double lip seal for the shaft in the cone as well and is usually replaced as a unit.
Never seen an impeller kit that had the cone. Not a bad idea to replace it tho.... if this were an older engine I would 100% have replaced it because they pretty much all leak after 10-15 years.
If you look at the video and see the old impeller... that's 5 years old and ran dry at idle for over an hour. So I would only do it every 5 years, not the every year that a marina will recommend.
You forgot something at the end the grommet that goes on the driveshaft the seals the top of the water pump housing she may overheat at idle just saying
You would want a silicone by the rubber seal over the impeller seal and then you coul put a dab of grease on the splines for the motor (after you assemble the impeller)
Hi, thanks for a great video and information. I'm planning on doing mine sometime next week and was wondering whether this video would be valid for Mercury 40 4 stroke 2015?
i took my boat out on the lake today when got home and tried to flush the engine, i didn't see the water peeing. i think it's clogged somewhere, what should i do? can you give suggestion?
If it was peeing at the lake theb its probably not a blackage but a weak impeller. You could remove the thermostat and see if you can pour water through the hoses and find the blockage.
Hey! Excellent video, Kenny. I just changed the impeller on my 2016 Mercury 90--based on your guidance--and I have a question. The impeller swap went easy-peasy for me, but when I put everything back together, the shift lever (by the dash) was jammed super tight. So dropped the bottom end and re-inserted it. Same problem--the shifter is stuck. I repeated this half a dozen times. Just so I'm clear, you had your throttle lever in NEUTRAL before starting. Then, before you put the lower end back in, you twisted the gear spline thingy until you found NEUTRAL? And you confirmed it was NEUTRAL by spinning the prop, right? Any ideas how I messed up? Thanks, Andreas, Lac du Bonnet, CANADA
Yeah that part can be a pain sorry I just saw this comment. You can manually move the splines in the lower unit until you find forward neutral and reverse by checking the rotation with your hand. Once you find it match it up with the gear position at the helm. Whether you have it in forward neutral or reverse is fine as long as it matches the helm position. It still may shift or move while you pick it up so sometimes you get one spline off and have to drop it again. I usually insert it just enough to get the splines in and test it before tightening everything.
The impeller turns clockwise when viewed assembled from the top of the motor. so you want it to look exactly as it does in the video. If you install it backwards it should flip itself right after being run but it also has a small chance of damaging the impeller.
@@buildsomethingstupid1736 on the right side of the lower unit the one you just removed I can see I small hole or something I noticed because mine has has one just like it but mine is from a motor built on 1969 Mercury 110 6hp Twin in fact I have 2 Mercury a 68 and 69 one has the hole, the other does not can understand why so while watching you video I noticed the hole around the front of you lower unit about 4- inches from the front cone. It could be nothing I will keep looking can’t figure out if it is factory or the previous owner just open the hole. Thanks for the reply.
Can a totally broken water impeller cause the engine to lock up??? Cause i couldnt pull it by the rope. So i took it off. Put a wrench to it. Used little pressure and it was free totally. No grinding whatsoever
Only if you run the engine long enough to overheat and blow it up. I mean I guess it's possible on a small pull start motor.. That sounds more like the engine sat for a few months and got a little rust on the rings
@@buildsomethingstupid1736 okay why im asking was my engine over heated cause i didnt realize it wasnt getting any water. And engine locked up. And yah i did what i said up there on my post…. Anyways i changed the water pump drove arnd for 2 hours full speed. Hasnt “seized” up yet… people were telling me “it’s finished.” “It would only run less then an hour” but idk i jus stayed close to shore driving arnd testing the motor out lol! Bout to go for a another test drive
man the only problem I had was trying to align the splines for the lower unit and now the shift shaft is locked and wont even rotate clockwise or counter clockwise... anyone have this happen to them? looks like the shop it is, Ive been trying for the last couple of hours and cant seem to get the shift shaft to even budge.. im defeated
Sounds like you engaged the lower unit in gear on accident. If so the shaft wont spin without spinning the prop. Rotate the little shifter shaft that changes gears and find neutral again.
@@buildsomethingstupid1736 right now, the prop just spins freely without the driveshaft even spinning... should I put a combo wrench and twist the shift shaft?
@@buildsomethingstupid1736 yeah it is very hard to twist the shift shaft… It is weird how it locked in and now we can't get it to come out… Twisting the driveshaft does nothing to the prop shaft… If I put a prop on it just freely spins
LOL, you must have skipped some of the video! I actually showed it to the camera and talked about it and redid it. I could have edited that out but I thought Id stay real.
Great video. Appreciate the honesty and not trying to smooth over the hard parts.
Great video! I love that you left the human error part and had to redrop the housing to do it right! This is the best video! Please keep up the good work!
Haha I'm just a regular guy! You should have seen my face when I realized
Best video I've seen. Leaves no stone unturned. Thanks
Thank you! Glad to know I'm not the only one who forgets stuff and has to take it all apart again.
I left it in the video because I try to be real!
The best vid on the internet for this lower unit style
Thanks
I’m not bothering with watching any other videos on impeller replacement. My 07 25hp 4 stroke stopped pumping water today while doing a little mid winter idle in the driveway. You are so through that I could almost do this for the first time blindfolded. 😅
Best video ive found on this. Thank you. My kit came with gaskets and orings that must be for a different model so it was nice to see one like mine online.
Thanks
Thanks to people like you, people like me have it so easy. God bless you for creating this video.
Basically if I need to do something and I cant find a good video I just make one for other people to use. There is almost no coverage of the NEWER boat motors. Everything is for the old ones.
Great video, had issues getting the foot back on. Once I got everything in forward it all slid together. Thank you!
Yeah that's the only tricky part!
Great video, very helpful, I did find that my leg didn’t come off as easy as the video, had to do a lot of persuading.
It's not the years,it's all about the hrs and the water you run it in,say muddy rivers vs clear lakes and such.Thanks for the vid.
I spend a lot of time in sandy rivers
Thanks. Very good Video. I just removed my bottom end on a 60HP a few days ago. Got my new kit from Amazon ( quicksilver ) and was wondering about the re-install of the lower end after I replace the impeller and gaskets etc. Took mine out in neutral. Hope it goes back in as easy as your's did.
Very soothing voice. I woke up with my phone on my chest. Thanks for such detailed video.
lol
Ok I figured it out. Don't ask me how but I did and it wasn't fun. It's a 2 man job. I did it myself. Your video did help a lot though. Thank you
Lol, sometimes one of the nubs on something isn't perfectly synced and you just have to try 5 or 6 times and then it goes in. Glad you got it done
Great video- I need to do this on my 2011 115HP (bought used). Thanks for posting this!
Very, very helpful amigo - thanks for doing this! Great trick on using the jack as well. I gotta say that the basics are all the same for a 2016 Mercury 60 4 stroke.
I sure envy you being able to stab the assembly right up there on the first try. I had to struggle with mine...
Thanks! Its always a pain to get it lined up, I had a heck of a time with a 70s Tohatsu motor a few years ago.
I just had my water impeller replaced at the shop $185.00.
Thanks, next time I'll buy the parts and do it myself.
you can use a little dab of marine grease to help hold the plate, gaskets and key in place and lined up for bolts. also inside housing to aid putting the new impeller in.
My first impeller lasted 15 years, and still looked okay - not great mind you, but okay. It had one very small chip on the tip of one blade. Since then however, I have replaced it about every 3 years.
Maybe oem is better rubber?
Non
Not a single marina I've ever worked at ever ran any boat dry... maybe you had a bad experience somewhere but that's certainly not something we do in the industry. Further more you have a bonding issue with your boat which is why all the paint is coming off your lower unit, might want to figure that one out before it gets worse.
great video, the water from my engine comes out in flots. I have also changed the impeller and the gaskets. Mercury orion 60 hp from 2016
Might be head gasket blown and thats where the air is coming from. There shouldn't be any air bubbles spitting out
Great job on this video ! Thank you.
Thank you Sir Kenny.. Very good video. I will do for my 115 hp Mercury Seapro.
Syafiq- Malaysia.
Glad it helped
"Silicone lube is good for everything from the bedroom to the garage. " LOL!
haha
Thanks for the video, will be doing my 2016 mercury 75hp four stroke impeller soon. I notice my lower unit paint is peeling in the exact same way as yours is lol.
I heard they all do. Pretty sad with modern technology they cant figure out paint!
Little grease behind keyway helps hold it in place
Good tip
There should be a nylon thrust washer above and below the impellor. Water pump housing 10mm bolts (four), lower unit 5/8" bolts (four).
I can not get the 14mm bolt loose from the bottom on my new engine. Is it reverse thread or something? Is it just extra tight? It will not loosen and I am afraid I will break it.
That was so helpful thanks a lot !
I wish I had seen you do the actual drop. I’m all set to do it. It would just be nice to know how to pull the nuts off the bolts. Are you physically propping it up? You can't pull a nut off with stressing anything remaining. PS your vid was well done and I learned a lot.
Do you have video to fix the shifter shaft if it wasn’t aligned when putting the lower unit back on?
i need that right now
Great video! I'm about to try on a 50hp 4stroke. Should I be worried about getting the fin back in place right? Do I mark it? Right now it looks to be perfectly centered with the shaft of motor? Is the fin critical during this process? Thanks!
Thanks man great video going to try mine on the 50. I see your paint going too
Yep, hopefully they will figure that paint out
God bless you for showing your mistake.
Getting ready to tackle this job.
Thank you SO much!! You made this so clear and easy to follow along with!! The jack tip... That is worth a pot of gold LOL Slightly off topic - Any clue to find out what (or where the info is) my gear ratio is? I have a 2012 60 ELPT 4 Stroke... And I have the $$$ manual and it lists two different gear ratios. Thanks again!
Do you know if it is a command thrust? The command thrust have the higher ratio. for example 1.83 for regular and 2.33 for command thrust.
Mine stops about 1/4 inch from being flush. Mercury 90 4 stroke 2016. Makes no sense. No matter how many times I spin prop and I make sure my shifter is in 1st as well as my shaft. About ready to just put one nut on and crank this shit down and hope it all works out.
Great video! Thank you!
I’m confused. I’ve watched several videos that say turn the drive shaft clockwise while installing impeller into housing which would have the fins bent the opposite direction of yours
Whatever direction is the correct direction. You can use your old one as a guide. If in doubt bump the starter on the motor and see what direction it turns and use that as a guide the outer fins should be dragging and not pushing
@@buildsomethingstupid1736 I figured that part out. Now please help me figure out why I have water in my engine oil now. I don’t know how I could have screwed up that bad but apparently I did. Lol
Great video I love the tips you give will come in handy …. One question should you keep in neutral when sliding off or put in gear ( I know you mentioned to keep in neutral). Because it seems like you had put in forward gear to line up when putting back on. Have you done any belt change outs yet they say at 300 hrs? Would love to see more videos on 300 hr maintenance 😁 before I screw this up next week!
Doesn't matter what gear you use as long as it matches the lower units gear. I did put it in forward, this allows you to spin the prop and make the shaft turn so it lines up the splines easier. As soon as you put it up and start a bolt or two go to the helm and go thru the gears and makes sure it moves and engages correctly
@buildsomethingstupid does your shifter shaft moves on its on in neutral? mine does and im having trouble with the gears after putting the lower unit back in
You can put the shifter in gear as long as you match that on the lower unit. Then obviously test the full range of motion in the shifter and make sure the gears operate as they should.
The only thing I would do differently is put the impeller on the shaft first then twist the drive shaft clockwise while pushing down and setting the housing. Additionally I would have put some waterproof Marine grease on all the spline shafts and the bolts.
Thanks
Good video and great tips
He forgot to put on the shaft seal that goes on after the impeller housing is reinstalled. Check out the section starting at 5:10 mark. Then check the 14:20 mark when the lower unit is reinstalled ... oops! Hopefully this doesn't cause issue.
You should probably go to 16:40 where I talked about that lol. Good catch tho
I just took my 2018 lower unit off and mine didn't have the shaft seal on! Did someone at the factory or dealer forget to put it back on?
I notice you only replaced the o-ring on the white oil seal cone. Why wouldn't you replace the whole thing since there is an embedded double lip seal for the shaft in the cone as well and is usually replaced as a unit.
Never seen an impeller kit that had the cone. Not a bad idea to replace it tho.... if this were an older engine I would 100% have replaced it because they pretty much all leak after 10-15 years.
Thanks for the video🤙
Very good video. Thanks for posting. I need to do mine.
If you look at the video and see the old impeller... that's 5 years old and ran dry at idle for over an hour. So I would only do it every 5 years, not the every year that a marina will recommend.
Would a water pump replacement on a 2020 Mercury 50 hp 4 stroke, be the same as this?
Very good video! Thanks!
Can you post part numbers
2015 model, first impeller change after 7 years. Old impeller looks fine, could have lasted even more years.
Yes people replace theirs too much. I would at most do it every 5 years but most dealers will recommend every year
@@buildsomethingstupid1736 Mercury says every 3 years.
You forgot something at the end the grommet that goes on the driveshaft the seals the top of the water pump housing she may overheat at idle just saying
If you watch carefully I noticed and took it back apart.
Awesome 👌
Thanks a lot👍
No grease on the shaft? Should I put some on it ? Since it’s out
You would want a silicone by the rubber seal over the impeller seal and then you coul put a dab of grease on the splines for the motor (after you assemble the impeller)
Hi, thanks for a great video and information. I'm planning on doing mine sometime next week and was wondering whether this video would be valid for Mercury 40 4 stroke 2015?
Not sure but in general most outboards are very similar
i took my boat out on the lake today when got home and tried to flush the engine, i didn't see the water peeing. i think it's clogged somewhere, what should i do? can you give suggestion?
If it was peeing at the lake theb its probably not a blackage but a weak impeller. You could remove the thermostat and see if you can pour water through the hoses and find the blockage.
You should replace the drive shaft seal, not just the O-ring. The drive shaft rotates, the O-ring doesn't.
Excellent!
Hey! Excellent video, Kenny. I just changed the impeller on my 2016 Mercury 90--based on your guidance--and I have a question.
The impeller swap went easy-peasy for me, but when I put everything back together, the shift lever (by the dash) was jammed super tight. So dropped the bottom end and re-inserted it. Same problem--the shifter is stuck. I repeated this half a dozen times.
Just so I'm clear, you had your throttle lever in NEUTRAL before starting. Then, before you put the lower end back in, you twisted the gear spline thingy until you found NEUTRAL? And you confirmed it was NEUTRAL by spinning the prop, right?
Any ideas how I messed up?
Thanks,
Andreas,
Lac du Bonnet, CANADA
Yeah that part can be a pain sorry I just saw this comment. You can manually move the splines in the lower unit until you find forward neutral and reverse by checking the rotation with your hand. Once you find it match it up with the gear position at the helm. Whether you have it in forward neutral or reverse is fine as long as it matches the helm position. It still may shift or move while you pick it up so sometimes you get one spline off and have to drop it again. I usually insert it just enough to get the splines in and test it before tightening everything.
Thanks great upload. Do you know if rubber prop spins clock wise or counter clock? @ 6:50
The impeller turns clockwise when viewed assembled from the top of the motor. so you want it to look exactly as it does in the video. If you install it backwards it should flip itself right after being run but it also has a small chance of damaging the impeller.
Thank you. Great stuff🤩
I especially liked when I forgot that piece.... SMDH lol
What are the torque specs for the four bolts on the water impellar housing and also the four bolts holding the lower unit?
No idea! I just judge it by experience and bolt size. Never had a problem.
60 in pounds
Hi is that hole in front of the lower unit normal is on the right side towards the front is not the water intake slits is by the front
I got to honest I can't understand what you're asking.
@@buildsomethingstupid1736 on the right side of the lower unit the one you just removed I can see I small hole or something I noticed because mine has has one just like it but mine is from a motor built on 1969 Mercury 110 6hp Twin in fact I have 2 Mercury a 68 and 69 one has the hole, the other does not can understand why so while watching you video I noticed the hole around the front of you lower unit about 4- inches from the front cone. It could be nothing I will keep looking can’t figure out if it is factory or the previous owner just open the hole. Thanks for the reply.
@@tacticalpickle7 not sure what it is
Can a totally broken water impeller cause the engine to lock up??? Cause i couldnt pull it by the rope. So i took it off. Put a wrench to it. Used little pressure and it was free totally. No grinding whatsoever
Only if you run the engine long enough to overheat and blow it up. I mean I guess it's possible on a small pull start motor.. That sounds more like the engine sat for a few months and got a little rust on the rings
@@buildsomethingstupid1736 okay why im asking was my engine over heated cause i didnt realize it wasnt getting any water. And engine locked up. And yah i did what i said up there on my post…. Anyways i changed the water pump drove arnd for 2 hours full speed. Hasnt “seized” up yet… people were telling me “it’s finished.” “It would only run less then an hour” but idk i jus stayed close to shore driving arnd testing the motor out lol! Bout to go for a another test drive
And this is a 2 stroke mercury 25hp im talking about….. im just commenting on peoples videos water pump related
man the only problem I had was trying to align the splines for the lower unit and now the shift shaft is locked and wont even rotate clockwise or counter clockwise... anyone have this happen to them? looks like the shop it is, Ive been trying for the last couple of hours and cant seem to get the shift shaft to even budge.. im defeated
Sounds like you engaged the lower unit in gear on accident. If so the shaft wont spin without spinning the prop. Rotate the little shifter shaft that changes gears and find neutral again.
If the shift shaft won't budge then wiggle it while you wiggle the prop. The prop is holding tension on the gears
@@buildsomethingstupid1736 right now, the prop just spins freely without the driveshaft even spinning... should I put a combo wrench and twist the shift shaft?
@@Quackk_Addict I wouldn't crank it hard it shouldn't be hard to switch gears.
@@buildsomethingstupid1736 yeah it is very hard to twist the shift shaft… It is weird how it locked in and now we can't get it to come out… Twisting the driveshaft does nothing to the prop shaft… If I put a prop on it just freely spins
You really drug this shit out
Thanks…
You left the shaft seal off redo it !
LOL, you must have skipped some of the video! I actually showed it to the camera and talked about it and redid it. I could have edited that out but I thought Id stay real.
Ryobi sounding like a rat in a tin box
Should spend more time on alignment of shifter
Yeah I should have, it's kind of a pain in the butt though either way though it definitely tries to move on you
Don't scratch the paint of your fin. Not good.
Hate to be that guy but You forgot to install the rubber on the shaft above the impeller housing 😬
Lol, I know I brought it up in the video and showed everyone and put it back on
You must not have watched the entire video.
You forgot top seal 🥴🥴🥴
Lol should have kept watching
Should of waited for end of video sorry 😎😎😎
@@stevenclark5206 I was like DANGIT! and showed it to the camera and redid it
You must not have watched the entire video