Hi there! I don't think so - my motorbike helmet doesn't fit because a human head is already quite big, plus the thickness and design of the helmet itself needs room. Dividing the helmet into smaller pieces of course is possible, but not printing as a whole solid object. If I were specifically buying a printer to make helmets I would choose a genuinely large format printer like an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max or similar
HI! This is a very cool video! My question is, if there any way, that I can get the 3D models for the speeder pad, and also for the webcam holder at 17:31? I'm really looking forward to your answer! I can't wait to print them!
I'm assuming you upped the flow rate each time you went up in speed right? Most people do not account for this which is why you may come across some stretching or ripples.
Hi, I set the max volumetric flow in the filament settings when I did my calibrations, so whether I was printing my 125mm/s or 500mm/s samples, the slicer had max flow at 40mm³/s - is this what you're talking about? I'm not aware of a separate 'flow rate' setting to change as I alter my print parameters. I did also tune pressure advance and flow ratio, albeit only at one speed - perhaps this is another area to optimise?
6:28 I can see again some big warping on V400 object. Too big speed + not enough temperature. You should try rising the temperature (if you want to keep the speed)
Yes the base is a bit warped and it took me a while to realise I needed to increase the bed temp for this filament I feel like I'd fixed it after this object with my slicer settings and forgot all about it The truth is I didn't tune the heck out of the machine, I basically put the extruder and bed temp to the maximum recommended for the filament and left it that way. I did end up turning the bed temp up as mentioned before, but not a super comprehensive tuning Very good catch!
@@DrAlanQuan not only the bed temperature, but the printing temperature too. Something I noticed few weeks ago. If there is not enough melting temperature, there will be more warping.
@@DrAlanQuan Since you have replied, I'd like to share with you an extraordinary thing I have discovered. I struggle with V400 for more than a year already. Loss of details, whole lot of ringing everywhere, I was ready to give up and get me a proper corexy. But, I have just recently discovered a new firmware from FLSun. I use this printer a lot, with all it's flaws, but now I can tell you - THIS IS NOW A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT PRINTER with a new firmware. It would certainly drive your review to totally different experience. It makes me wanna cry when I think of all those unslept nights trying to unsuccessfully adjust it to decent quality. Cheers!
@@paddlehard5722 is it a simple process to upgrade the firmware? I've literally never updated a Klipper print before. Is it just downloaded via the touchscreen or do I need to load a USB drive manually? I'm glad to hear a firmware update helps so much!
@@DrAlanQuan Hold on, I'll write you some truthful details about upgrade and performance after some time of testing. There are news, but I have yet to see in which segment and how beneficial. For now I can only say, my personal nature payed me once again - childish enthusiastic glee until shovel hits me. Anyways, my first impression which I wrote you should not be totally ignored :)
@@DrAlanQuan To cut the long story short, the exaggerated default input shaper fooled me at first when I have started with new FW update. It brought much better details on expense of ringing. Extreme ringing. And we're back to the old story of Delta printers. They tremendously depend on input shaper when printing fast (faster than 30mm/s). Input shaper (as we know it) does a good job in compensating ringing, but it also destroys details where quick fine excursion is required. Playing with input shaper can yield in good compromise in the end, but it's a compromise.
Impressive and well presented video. You are a good presenter with supporting graphics etc and points out the goodies & the uglies 👍. Thanks for making this video reason I click is as u mentioned S1&T1 is slashing V400 price makes me to look into 😊. Keep up your good work & all the best to you.❤
Hi thank you so much for your encouragement! I'm still very much learning everything (3D printing, benchmarking, presentation and editing) but it's been fun! I'm looking forward to the new printers. These delays have been tough!
I remember when it was launched it was marketed as a 400mm/s printer which is what I assumed the name meant. Somewhere along the line they revised the advertised speed to 600mm/s But yeah, the delta print volume is a bit confusing but at least for me, I am never printing anything that pushes the height limit. I just want speed, reliability and quality for my moderate sized items
Try to print a cube the size of any bed slingers advertised volume on any bed slinger. 50% infill. The machine will EXPLODE before it gets anywhere near completion.. FLsun build volume is the most honest.
I don't think there's any FDM printer that prints at 250+mm/s without ringing, even my Bambu Lab printer shows ringing at high speeds The fact that this printer can produce a finished print at 500mm/s at all is already a miracle! But I will admit that even when turned down, the V400 quality is not as nice as the Bambu - but I think for a prototyping printer the V400 is amazing thanks to the RAPID speed and acceptable quality
@@DrAlanQuanI talk about "warping" not ringing buddy. Warping is just a lacking of knowledge for me to be honest, its a beginner issue. Thats why after 7 mins i just guive up and never come back to see your vidéos.
Ah righteo. Yeah I didn't realise the PLA needed an extra 10° of bed temperature until I'd already printed a lot of test pieces. But you know, live and learn. See ya!
Very good review
Do you think it's possible to print full sized helmets (like clone troopers ones) on the v400 ? Since it's a cylinder shape
Hi there! I don't think so - my motorbike helmet doesn't fit because a human head is already quite big, plus the thickness and design of the helmet itself needs room.
Dividing the helmet into smaller pieces of course is possible, but not printing as a whole solid object.
If I were specifically buying a printer to make helmets I would choose a genuinely large format printer like an Elegoo Neptune 4 Max or similar
I would highly suggest the kobra 2 max as the build plate is big enough for nearly everything you want and its cheaper and reliable
HI! This is a very cool video! My question is, if there any way, that I can get the 3D models for the speeder pad, and also for the webcam holder at 17:31? I'm really looking forward to your answer! I can't wait to print them!
Hi, I've just uploaded these files onto my website - go for it!
www.dralanquan.com.au/downloads
@@DrAlanQuan You really made my day! Thank you very much!!! :D
I'm assuming you upped the flow rate each time you went up in speed right? Most people do not account for this which is why you may come across some stretching or ripples.
Hi, I set the max volumetric flow in the filament settings when I did my calibrations, so whether I was printing my 125mm/s or 500mm/s samples, the slicer had max flow at 40mm³/s - is this what you're talking about?
I'm not aware of a separate 'flow rate' setting to change as I alter my print parameters. I did also tune pressure advance and flow ratio, albeit only at one speed - perhaps this is another area to optimise?
6:28 I can see again some big warping on V400 object. Too big speed + not enough temperature. You should try rising the temperature (if you want to keep the speed)
Yes the base is a bit warped and it took me a while to realise I needed to increase the bed temp for this filament
I feel like I'd fixed it after this object with my slicer settings and forgot all about it
The truth is I didn't tune the heck out of the machine, I basically put the extruder and bed temp to the maximum recommended for the filament and left it that way. I did end up turning the bed temp up as mentioned before, but not a super comprehensive tuning
Very good catch!
@@DrAlanQuan not only the bed temperature, but the printing temperature too. Something I noticed few weeks ago. If there is not enough melting temperature, there will be more warping.
Ok good to know, if I recall correctly this Ganesh statue was only printed at 125mm/s so wouldn't have thought it was a filament temperature issue
This ear can be tweaked with some cooling and speed, but I wonder what can recover a total loss of detail in screen bottom -the pink model 06:41
I'm not a tuning pro, I wish I could guide the printers into being perfect 😂
@@DrAlanQuan Since you have replied, I'd like to share with you an extraordinary thing I have discovered. I struggle with V400 for more than a year already. Loss of details, whole lot of ringing everywhere, I was ready to give up and get me a proper corexy. But, I have just recently discovered a new firmware from FLSun. I use this printer a lot, with all it's flaws, but now I can tell you - THIS IS NOW A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT PRINTER with a new firmware. It would certainly drive your review to totally different experience. It makes me wanna cry when I think of all those unslept nights trying to unsuccessfully adjust it to decent quality. Cheers!
@@paddlehard5722 is it a simple process to upgrade the firmware? I've literally never updated a Klipper print before. Is it just downloaded via the touchscreen or do I need to load a USB drive manually? I'm glad to hear a firmware update helps so much!
@@DrAlanQuan Hold on, I'll write you some truthful details about upgrade and performance after some time of testing. There are news, but I have yet to see in which segment and how beneficial. For now I can only say, my personal nature payed me once again - childish enthusiastic glee until shovel hits me. Anyways, my first impression which I wrote you should not be totally ignored :)
@@DrAlanQuan To cut the long story short, the exaggerated default input shaper fooled me at first when I have started with new FW update. It brought much better details on expense of ringing. Extreme ringing. And we're back to the old story of Delta printers. They tremendously depend on input shaper when printing fast (faster than 30mm/s). Input shaper (as we know it) does a good job in compensating ringing, but it also destroys details where quick fine excursion is required. Playing with input shaper can yield in good compromise in the end, but it's a compromise.
Impressive and well presented video. You are a good presenter with supporting graphics etc and points out the goodies & the uglies 👍. Thanks for making this video reason I click is as u mentioned S1&T1 is slashing V400 price makes me to look into 😊. Keep up your good work & all the best to you.❤
Hi thank you so much for your encouragement! I'm still very much learning everything (3D printing, benchmarking, presentation and editing) but it's been fun!
I'm looking forward to the new printers. These delays have been tough!
The FLSumV400 is actually a V375. 😢 im annoyed by the fact incan only print 377.345mm high! Call it a lie!
I remember when it was launched it was marketed as a 400mm/s printer which is what I assumed the name meant. Somewhere along the line they revised the advertised speed to 600mm/s
But yeah, the delta print volume is a bit confusing but at least for me, I am never printing anything that pushes the height limit. I just want speed, reliability and quality for my moderate sized items
Try to print a cube the size of any bed slingers advertised volume on any bed slinger. 50% infill. The machine will EXPLODE before it gets anywhere near completion.. FLsun build volume is the most honest.
Cool. good point
Thank you!
Warping everywhere : )
I don't think there's any FDM printer that prints at 250+mm/s without ringing, even my Bambu Lab printer shows ringing at high speeds
The fact that this printer can produce a finished print at 500mm/s at all is already a miracle!
But I will admit that even when turned down, the V400 quality is not as nice as the Bambu - but I think for a prototyping printer the V400 is amazing thanks to the RAPID speed and acceptable quality
@@DrAlanQuanI talk about "warping" not ringing buddy. Warping is just a lacking of knowledge for me to be honest, its a beginner issue. Thats why after 7 mins i just guive up and never come back to see your vidéos.
Ah righteo. Yeah I didn't realise the PLA needed an extra 10° of bed temperature until I'd already printed a lot of test pieces.
But you know, live and learn. See ya!