The online resources and community support provided by FLsun are very rich and have helped me solve many problems in printing and improve my printing skills!
Delta has always been something I've been looking forward to, and I've been impressed with the V400's delta construction for its rapid prototyping capabilities, but the recently prepared T1 Pro seems to have been optimized in terms of design. I'm looking forward to further breakthroughs in the mechanics that will bring a smoother printing experience and reduce minor issues such as noise and vibration.
Thanks for the review. I appreciate your honesty and integrity in reviewing this printer. I think some content creators seem to walk on egg shells and sugarcoat the issues to stay in good with the manufacturers.
I really like what they did with the LEDs: First layer visibility is great. But yeah, I think they need to have better profiles and probably better input shaping as well. EDIT to add: That thumbnail is awesome 😂
I just got my V400 6 days ago and compared to my Voron Trident, this thing is a treat. Flashed it with stock Klipper following Guiloz Github guide and having the best time with it. While my CoreXY is still doing mesh probe and bed leveling, the V400 is already on layer 4 of my print or something ridiculous. It's a great buy considering the quality prints with as good surface finish as you know how to dial in your filament and printer settings. Zero regrets guys, do it if the price is right for you.
Let's be real, when it comes to print quality, whether you're talking about Delta, coreXY, or i3 structures, they're all pretty much on par these days. But when you need to step up your game and go big with production, the Delta structure has a definite edge.
Personally, I love my FLSUN V400. It definitely isn't a plug-and-play printer, to be fair. But, with time, I'm now finishing "4 hour" print models in 30 minutes at better quality than slower printers. I run a few prints through it a day. I put a Bondtech CHT nozzle in it (0.4mm). It's greased with lithium grease. Otherwise, 100% original - belts, extruder, etc.
Hi Igor Interesting. My experiences of FLSun longer-term have been poor, with reliability being a real issue. While drltas ate fun to watch, for real applications I would buy Bambu every time. More reliable out-of-the-box print profiles, betyer quality prints and more dimensional accuracy are all benefits that far outweigh watching a delta in real life
That's what you get with a bad delta... which is all flsun seems capable of delivering. I have way higher surface quality & dimensional accuracy than Bambus, not to mention speed. The problem is flsun not delta.
Yep, just built a diy core xy printer (not voron) and got a 20.0 - 19,9 - 19,9 cube without any calibration. And my bambulab just prints fast and accurate every time. My SR is like a wild stallion sometimes it prints great but other times i don't use it for months since it just gives me trouble. I spent around 200$ on upgrades, speederpad, extruder, hotend and some printed parts. Next step is to replace the worthless bed with pei + new aluminum tool plate and silicone heater probably end up spending another 150$ on parts and maybe a day to do the upgrades. I have 3 deltas from FLsun and I'm thinking about if I'm going to spend more money on them or just sell them and replace them with 1 good printer. The kinematics is fun, but I don't know if it's enough.
I am interested in a video about the S1 because those features look interesting. Also, knowing that you have access to both Bambu A1 and P1P, I would be very curious to see the A1's active flow compensation in action. Maybe set up some quick flow tests between A1 and P1P and see if the A1 does better, or it's just a marketing gimmick? What do you think?
It is better and it demonstrates it at the start of a print, at least the A1 Mini does, if the “Flow Dynamics Calibration” box is checked when the print job is sent. Prior to calibration a short line is extruded at the front of the plate with the toolhead accelerating and decelerating. The line is alternately thicker and thinner, definitely not uniform. After calibration a second line is extruded next to the first, same acceleration and deceleration pattern, and the line is very nearly uniform. The X1C does something similar, extrudes 3 lines while accelerating and decelerating, scans them, then extrudes a clean line underneath while changing speeds. In my mind I call it the proof line because it demonstrates the result of calibration but it’s probably got some technical name.
Thank you for being honest. We work in a remote, developing world location doing humanitarian work. Getting printers here is expensive and takes a lot of effort. We had one person donate the funds for one that was pretty expensive. We watched reviews and talked tovdealers about how important it was to get something that worked well. In blunt terms no one was honest. After fighting with it almost two years I have met others who regret buying them as they never live up to their hype and promises. Please keep doing honest reviews, to some of us it can be very, very important!
Can you do sunlu matte PLA test? You did a lot of great tests, and i would like to see this filament tested with the same methodology. It doesnt even have to be best video ever i just wonder does stuff that makes it matte harm physical properties. If its almost the same i will buy it for the appearance (hides layer lines better)
You should print your dices four pieces at once, one after another, in four different "corners" of the print bed. V400 has very poor accuracy, around +/-0.5mm, depending on position on a print bed. That could be caused by two reasons: 1. Typical Delta mechanism problem 2. Poor calibration in limited Klipper by FLSun If first, there's nothing you can do. When print head goes aside, one arm is stretching almost horizontally, printer loses the accuracy and all resonance compensation (input shaping) which was made in the middle of print bed, goes down the drain. If second, I wonder if "vanilla" Klipper would introduce better software controls for this simple yet wild mechanism. I tried, got stuck in the middle of transition and went back. All in all, if someone told me about those problems, I would never buy this printer. However, for prints which don't require dimensional accuracy (bigger parts without connection points, sculptures, toys) this printer can be fun to run, with decent results, but somewhat dull details due to unavoidable input shaper. Without input shaper this printing head trembles when you just look at it.
Oh, that may be the reason. So far I noticed bigger inaccuracy on large parts. Also give some explanation, why it scratches the surface sometime (mentioned in conclusions part)
@@MyTechFun Large parts have more inaccuracy because they spread more in printable area and then aforementioned reason No1 gets emphasized. But if you print a big Halloween mask for example, you will not notice that because you don't measure accuracy there. Only imperfection you could see then are occasional "ghosting" artefacts because input shaping compensation frequency changes as soon as you leave the bed centre. About surface scratching, I have heard some units have motors poorly bolted to the frame. Those screws should be tightened. My V400 never scratched the surface, but I checked those bolts anyway. They were ok, I didn't have to tighten them. Also, check the belt tightness. Especially if you run faster than 150mm/s, which I don't recommend for the sake of precision, surface appearance and longevity of mechanical components of this printer. I manage to break belts and ruin rollers just because I wanted to see if tighter belts would yield better results (did not). You should have a belt gauge printed (I don't know why FLSun doesn't include that cheap piece of plastic) and tighten belts not too hard, not too loose, all three the same (tested by resonance sound when arms are in the same (home) position). I'm not sure which of those aforementioned two reasons is bothering V400 the most. To validate reason No2, maybe some users which managed to successfully implement full Klipper firmware could testify about actual improvement after extensive delta calibration. I can imagine a software that compensates imperfection of delta mechanics, but I doubt it exists. As for me, life is too short and there are too many good printers out there. Three arm movement system (Delta) is used a lot in industrial pick and place robots, where speed is important and accuracy for the specific application is just fine. th-cam.com/video/m0IcEjgUDVQ/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/RKJEwHfXs4Q/w-d-xo.html There's a reason why Delta positioning system is never used in any type of CNC machinery, where ultimate unconditional precision is mandatory.
@@MyTechFun To save you time and trouble, I propose you start testing your input shaping from values I have found as a sweet spot for my V400. Manual input on speeder pad: x: 29 ei y: 29 ei You can test those values with +/-3 to fine tune. This brings the least ghosting, but somewhat flattens fine details. And relates only to 10cm diameter at the print bed center. Speed 150mm/s. Accel 4000mm/s2.
I've got a v400, it was my first printer and now is my least favorite printer. My corexy printers are superior in my opinion. For some reason my delta just doesn't print as well as it once did.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
The online resources and community support provided by FLsun are very rich and have helped me solve many problems in printing and improve my printing skills!
The S1's printing speed is incredible; it exceeds all my speed expectations!
I am still enthusiastic about my V400. What I want to emphasize here is that they give good support. He answers reliably within 24 hours.
Delta has always been something I've been looking forward to, and I've been impressed with the V400's delta construction for its rapid prototyping capabilities, but the recently prepared T1 Pro seems to have been optimized in terms of design. I'm looking forward to further breakthroughs in the mechanics that will bring a smoother printing experience and reduce minor issues such as noise and vibration.
Thanks for the review. I appreciate your honesty and integrity in reviewing this printer. I think some content creators seem to walk on egg shells and sugarcoat the issues to stay in good with the manufacturers.
I really like deltas, my modded q5 still runs to this day.
I really like what they did with the LEDs: First layer visibility is great. But yeah, I think they need to have better profiles and probably better input shaping as well.
EDIT to add: That thumbnail is awesome 😂
I just got my V400 6 days ago and compared to my Voron Trident, this thing is a treat. Flashed it with stock Klipper following Guiloz Github guide and having the best time with it. While my CoreXY is still doing mesh probe and bed leveling, the V400 is already on layer 4 of my print or something ridiculous. It's a great buy considering the quality prints with as good surface finish as you know how to dial in your filament and printer settings. Zero regrets guys, do it if the price is right for you.
Thank you for sharing. My V400 works very well and the dimensional accuracy is very accurate, thanks to my repeated calibration.
Let's be real, when it comes to print quality, whether you're talking about Delta, coreXY, or i3 structures, they're all pretty much on par these days. But when you need to step up your game and go big with production, the Delta structure has a definite edge.
So far, my flsun V400 machine has been printing pretty well, and the problem of ghosting is not common.
The delta structure seems to be more interesting, which is probably one of the reasons why students like it.
Team delta!
Personally, I love my FLSUN V400. It definitely isn't a plug-and-play printer, to be fair. But, with time, I'm now finishing "4 hour" print models in 30 minutes at better quality than slower printers. I run a few prints through it a day. I put a Bondtech CHT nozzle in it (0.4mm). It's greased with lithium grease. Otherwise, 100% original - belts, extruder, etc.
FYI, they have the older SR on offer at 200$ which ain't bad if you have a craving for a delta and are willing to upgrade the firmware.
Where I can get that sliding scale for measurement? Thanks
Hi Igor
Interesting. My experiences of FLSun longer-term have been poor, with reliability being a real issue.
While drltas ate fun to watch, for real applications I would buy Bambu every time.
More reliable out-of-the-box print profiles, betyer quality prints and more dimensional accuracy are all benefits that far outweigh watching a delta in real life
That's what you get with a bad delta... which is all flsun seems capable of delivering. I have way higher surface quality & dimensional accuracy than Bambus, not to mention speed. The problem is flsun not delta.
Yep, just built a diy core xy printer (not voron) and got a 20.0 - 19,9 - 19,9 cube without any calibration. And my bambulab just prints fast and accurate every time. My SR is like a wild stallion sometimes it prints great but other times i don't use it for months since it just gives me trouble. I spent around 200$ on upgrades, speederpad, extruder, hotend and some printed parts. Next step is to replace the worthless bed with pei + new aluminum tool plate and silicone heater probably end up spending another 150$ on parts and maybe a day to do the upgrades.
I have 3 deltas from FLsun and I'm thinking about if I'm going to spend more money on them or just sell them and replace them with 1 good printer. The kinematics is fun, but I don't know if it's enough.
FLsun are know scam artists. They only let the reviewer say positive things in exchange for the printer.
Would be awesome to see if the V400 effector is compatible with the SR. It would make such a big difference
It is. Just recabling is needed
@@marcksky4446 The dimensions of the effector are different, so I reallly think during mesh or delta calibration the effector will go out of the bed
No
@@marcksky4446 do you have a video of it working ?
@@laydnbeatsomg for real? 😂 yes I can do it, I’ve done it on my SR. Again only recabling is needed and ofc delta calibrate etc
I am interested in a video about the S1 because those features look interesting.
Also, knowing that you have access to both Bambu A1 and P1P, I would be very curious to see the A1's active flow compensation in action. Maybe set up some quick flow tests between A1 and P1P and see if the A1 does better, or it's just a marketing gimmick? What do you think?
It is better and it demonstrates it at the start of a print, at least the A1 Mini does, if the “Flow Dynamics Calibration” box is checked when the print job is sent.
Prior to calibration a short line is extruded at the front of the plate with the toolhead accelerating and decelerating. The line is alternately thicker and thinner, definitely not uniform.
After calibration a second line is extruded next to the first, same acceleration and deceleration pattern, and the line is very nearly uniform.
The X1C does something similar, extrudes 3 lines while accelerating and decelerating, scans them, then extrudes a clean line underneath while changing speeds. In my mind I call it the proof line because it demonstrates the result of calibration but it’s probably got some technical name.
Thank you for being honest. We work in a remote, developing world location doing humanitarian work. Getting printers here is expensive and takes a lot of effort. We had one person donate the funds for one that was pretty expensive. We watched reviews and talked tovdealers about how important it was to get something that worked well. In blunt terms no one was honest. After fighting with it almost two years I have met others who regret buying them as they never live up to their hype and promises. Please keep doing honest reviews, to some of us it can be very, very important!
At work I have a V400 and a Creality K1 max. Nobody ever wants to use the V400, always prefer the K1.
and why?
Can you do sunlu matte PLA test? You did a lot of great tests, and i would like to see this filament tested with the same methodology.
It doesnt even have to be best video ever i just wonder does stuff that makes it matte harm physical properties. If its almost the same i will buy it for the appearance (hides layer lines better)
I was about to buy one on Amazon and they suddenly all disappeared....
You should print your dices four pieces at once, one after another, in four different "corners" of the print bed. V400 has very poor accuracy, around +/-0.5mm, depending on position on a print bed. That could be caused by two reasons:
1. Typical Delta mechanism problem
2. Poor calibration in limited Klipper by FLSun
If first, there's nothing you can do. When print head goes aside, one arm is stretching almost horizontally, printer loses the accuracy and all resonance compensation (input shaping) which was made in the middle of print bed, goes down the drain.
If second, I wonder if "vanilla" Klipper would introduce better software controls for this simple yet wild mechanism. I tried, got stuck in the middle of transition and went back.
All in all, if someone told me about those problems, I would never buy this printer. However, for prints which don't require dimensional accuracy (bigger parts without connection points, sculptures, toys) this printer can be fun to run, with decent results, but somewhat dull details due to unavoidable input shaper. Without input shaper this printing head trembles when you just look at it.
Oh, that may be the reason. So far I noticed bigger inaccuracy on large parts. Also give some explanation, why it scratches the surface sometime (mentioned in conclusions part)
@@MyTechFun Large parts have more inaccuracy because they spread more in printable area and then aforementioned reason No1 gets emphasized. But if you print a big Halloween mask for example, you will not notice that because you don't measure accuracy there. Only imperfection you could see then are occasional "ghosting" artefacts because input shaping compensation frequency changes as soon as you leave the bed centre.
About surface scratching, I have heard some units have motors poorly bolted to the frame. Those screws should be tightened. My V400 never scratched the surface, but I checked those bolts anyway. They were ok, I didn't have to tighten them. Also, check the belt tightness. Especially if you run faster than 150mm/s, which I don't recommend for the sake of precision, surface appearance and longevity of mechanical components of this printer. I manage to break belts and ruin rollers just because I wanted to see if tighter belts would yield better results (did not). You should have a belt gauge printed (I don't know why FLSun doesn't include that cheap piece of plastic) and tighten belts not too hard, not too loose, all three the same (tested by resonance sound when arms are in the same (home) position).
I'm not sure which of those aforementioned two reasons is bothering V400 the most. To validate reason No2, maybe some users which managed to successfully implement full Klipper firmware could testify about actual improvement after extensive delta calibration. I can imagine a software that compensates imperfection of delta mechanics, but I doubt it exists.
As for me, life is too short and there are too many good printers out there.
Three arm movement system (Delta) is used a lot in industrial pick and place robots, where speed is important and accuracy for the specific application is just fine.
th-cam.com/video/m0IcEjgUDVQ/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/RKJEwHfXs4Q/w-d-xo.html
There's a reason why Delta positioning system is never used in any type of CNC machinery, where ultimate unconditional precision is mandatory.
@@MyTechFun To save you time and trouble, I propose you start testing your input shaping from values I have found as a sweet spot for my V400.
Manual input on speeder pad:
x: 29 ei
y: 29 ei
You can test those values with +/-3 to fine tune. This brings the least ghosting, but somewhat flattens fine details. And relates only to 10cm diameter at the print bed center. Speed 150mm/s. Accel 4000mm/s2.
I've got a v400, it was my first printer and now is my least favorite printer. My corexy printers are superior in my opinion. For some reason my delta just doesn't print as well as it once did.