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I've used both, to me there is no difference in function. If I had to choose one or the other, I would just choose what is cheaper!

Hi Matthias, I rewatched the video and I think I understand what you're saying. Let me preface this by saying the motion felt very natural when I was driving. In some corners the motion system is leaning inwards and on others it's leaning outwards - the key difference I believe is the camber of the corner, and Bathurst has a lot of variation in camber around the circuit. On heavily banked corners the motion system leans inwards, and on flat corners it leans outwards and I think this is an accurate reflection of what you would feel in real life. With heavily banked corners the reaction force from the road is relatively normal to the road surface which is not felt as lateral g force from the driver perspective. On flatter corners, the reaction force from the road is comparatively more parallel with the road surface, which is felt as lateral Gs and hence the motion system rolls outwards. I hope my interpretation is correct and communicated clearly - maybe the Sigma Integrale guys can chip in. I will say though - that is a really sharp observation and I'm impressed that you picked up on it!

49 to 57 has got to be the worst value for dollar purchase somebody can make. Yes the newer screen is very nice but for racing, the 49 gives 99.99% of the same experience in my opinion. I literally didn't know the 57 was a 57 the first few times I walked past it. I thought it was a 49.

I think triple 32 really is the sweet spot for everything. Viewing area, space requirement, PC requirement, cost. Triple anything (27" and above) will be fine though

Good stuff. Also, what are D1, D2 and D3 times?

​@@DrAlanQuanSra guudelines or laptimes for like division racers. So if you go to the sra site. They have a list of every track and times from d6 down to alien times which are even faster then d1​. Good little list to go by to see how fast you are in comparison. I go by it to see how competative I am or how much better I'm doing. It's the sim racing alliance.

Hi, I haven't posted the phone holder because it's not a universal phone mount, it's very specific to a Samsung A11. Also it requires 20x3mm magnets and these have been really hard to restock. Does anybody else have a phone holder design available? I did get the idea from somebody's photos on Facebook after all

I think I paid 830 delivered for my rig, which was pretty competitive at the time. Newer and cheaper options have come out since though

Thanks, I thought so! ❤️

Yep, the moment I sat down in the DK6 with its 6" travel I could tell immediately the hardware was different. Totally worth the price difference

I'm so glad you thought so! Thanks for watching❤️

Hi, I think this is an issue with EA WRC. The game is just terrible with detecting wheels - pedals and handbrakes it seems ok, but with wheels I had to shut down the game, sometimes restart the PC and start the game again and then the wheel would be detected. One it's detected and calibrated, it works every time though. It's just detecting it and calibrating it the first time. I did nothing special, I just tried it again and again! But it does work eventually. Good luck!

Thanks for your kind words! I'm so pleased with how everything turned out, and so grateful to see projects like yours that inspired me to continue developing as I have done. And the IDEX printer is flawed but also awesome. I much prefer it to the single nozzle cut and purge style multi material philosophy that is so fashionable now. IDEX is versatile and relatively inexpensive, I would love to see a modern take on a budget IDEX but my 2 year old IDEX printer will do for now!

Hi Lucas, I have customers using all sorts of different printers to make my grips with good success! I've used a nearly 3 year old printer (ancient by today's standards) as well as a $1000 printer released just 1 month ago and they both make parts that are perfectly usable. If your aim initially is just to make these grips, then keeping cost low is best. On a budget, the Elegoo Neptune 4 is fantastic because it's cheap, but also very full featured and a good build size in case you decide you want to print larger things like handles for your fridge or washing machine. Once your budget increases from there, pretty much any brand will do a great job. I have very good experience with Elegoo, FLSUN and Makerpi printers.

The phone is connected via WiFi, Simhub makes it really easy. And the formula rim is connected to the DD1 via QR2

Thanks! It's quite big (360 to 370mm, I haven't figured out how to properly measure it) but it looks and feels pretty good to race with. Very happy with how it turned out!

I haven't tried a Bodnar wheel but I'll ask around and let you know if anything turns up

@@DrAlanQuan Please do, thanks buddy!

That's www.simhubdash.com running Lovely Dashboard XL

Thank you for your input that led to the grips becoming what they are today! Get ready for a few rapid fire updates as I'll likely be improving the TPU process, and possibly applying the same technique to the other sizes too

Hi Gregory, I think it really depends what you want to do. Fanatec does have strengths, like the podium hub makes it super easy to wire up buttons and switches which is how my Supra wheel has working paddle shifters. So suprisingly, Fanatec can be a strong choice for DIYers who don't have any actual talent like me. The rest of the Fanatec wheels don't interest me though. The formula V2 is ok but it's old and outclassed by competitors now so I don't think it's an attractive new purchase - but the mods I designed hopefully can improve the experience for some for not much money. It's wild how expensive some of the rims out there are now these days. If I weren't DIYing I would get a Simagic Alpha Mini and a GT Neo, hands down. But I kinda like my Supra wheel so staying with Fanatec suits me for the time being. With that in mind, what are your thoughts?

Time will tell!

Thank you!

Hi, I never did get my GT Neo. There was so much demand from RaceKraft so initially I told them to sell their stock to other customers instead of to me. Then I needed wrist surgery and I'm still recovering from that so there's no urgency for me to get a new rim. I would 100% get the GT Neo even if the grip surface breaks down. You're wearing gloves anyway so it's a cosmetic issue only. The GT Neo is a lot more comfortable than the FX. The FX has this weird square edge that pushes into my thumb and is quite uncomfortable, plus the buttons are all really far away from the hand. The GT Neo is a much better design imo. And it's half the price.

@@DrAlanQuan Thanks for the reply, I'll probably go with the Neo and just deal with the grips when they go. Good luck with recovery, wrist issues are no joke for us sim racers

Hi, thanks for commenting! With every approach there are pros and cons, and adding more steps (printing separately, separating supports, and gluing) can make it more difficult. That's why I focused on the IDEX approach - one click, done. That being said your suggested approach of printing separately and assembling afterwards is definitely possible and I can redesign and publish an update for it (the current design has retention balls that were discussing designed for interlocking via IDEX printing, so not suitable for separate printing and assembly) If you purchase the complete collection and send me a message via cults, I'll start working on it and have something workable in a week or so.

@@DrAlanQuan oh dope. I was on the fence but I think that sells me :) happy to be a guinea pig. Finding the right adhesive is going to be the trick. 🤔

I've uploaded an update to the complete collection already 👍 you can print the TPU and the solid grips separately and assemble them afterwards. It won't be as easy and hands-off as using an IDEX printer but it will work!

@@DrAlanQuan awesome thanks!!! I'm printing once of the trophies now to see how I like the feel. Assuming I like it I'll be buying the pack later today

Thanks for your support as always. Aside from support, I also need IDEAS! Haha so please send any requests my way. PS: print the fronts first, I can foresee a slight revision to the rears by this weekend (and you know that actually means within 24 hours hahaha)

ive got a few new ones i can run by you over the next few days. happy to send my mclaren wheel if you want to develop anything for that as well HAHA never ending thanks for letting me know. ill print the fronts out with the ams tomorrow and let you know how i go. have a good one mate.

I thought about doing it myself but it doesn't suit my schedule. Selling the files at a fair price, even if it limits my total market reach, suits me better for the time being. My friends at www.simuverse.au in QLD are licensed to sell my files and they are testing the dual material designs now. They might even have McLaren GT3 products, but I haven't checked.

The noise is, to be quite blunt, obnoxious. The print speed is phenomenal and the noise would be a non issue in a workshop environment but it's too much for inside a home, imo.

I'm really glad you found it useful. Being able to see and experience the different configurations has been so helpful for me, but not everybody has the same opportunities which is why I made the video and I'm glad the portrayal of the experience manages to get across! Have fun with the new build :)

My 3x 1440s ~AUD$1600 Samsung 57 ~AUD$3200 So.... Yeah

@@DrAlanQuanAh well, in the US the Samsung 57 is usually $1700 USD. While a decent 32" monitor is around $500 to $800 USD X 3. So....yeah....

I got budget Gigabyte G32QC monitors and they're fine. They were around $280USD ea which is well, well under your estimate If you want to pay more go for it, but the budget option is there and works really well

@@DrAlanQuan You're right, the budget options are there. I guess I've just been spoiled by racing on my 55" LG C2 4K oled. All jokes aside, I liked your video. Only thing that threw me off was the "half the price" part.

Hi, the GT Neo can not communicate to Fanatec wheelbases because Fanatec does not use a standard USB protocol. It needs USB or maglink direct to the PC. If you find a different solution please let me know!

@@DrAlanQuan Well, I changed the QR2 to USB. My base, Asetek Forte, and the Simagic GT Neo should also be changed to USB without cables.

Ah ok, sounds like you already have the knowledge and skills to complete the conversion. The USB/maglink header on the GT Neo motherboard is a JST connector of some sort, but I'm not sure of the spec or the pinout.

Impressive collection! How do you manage the noise? Are they in your home or in a garage/workshop. Now that I've returned the T1 my projects are agonisingly slow to complete on my other printers haha

You're very welcome, thank you for sharing your experience!

Nice! I came up with this mounting solution because car seats are tricky and non-standardised, but it is equally applicable to a bucket seat. Go get creative! ❤️

Thanks for the kind words!

I saw the fudged flowrate stuff with the S1 and flsunslicer. I sliced my own calibration gcode on Orcaslicer, verifying on the preview the print speeds and flow rates (which if I recall correctly is how the fudged calibration was exposed with the S1). If you watch the screengrab video where I show the Moonraker error the live flow rate readout shows 86+ mm³/s (I forget how much exactly) before Klipper reboots. The only thing I didn't do was physically measure the speed of the filament coming off the spool as it printed. I don't think there's much more I can do to test the flow rate in a controlled and consistent way. Seriously, get your hands on a T1 and some OzFDM HS ABS and run the test yourself, and let's compare data. If I've made a mistake somewhere I'd like to know. I came into this test reasonably well prepared having heard about the dodgy S1 flow rate test and did what I could within my skill set to test properly. But I will say one thing - a printer that actually meets its claimed specs? Unheard of right? Hence I was pleasantly surprised. And then really disappointed by the build volume issue. So you win some, you lose some. Thanks for commenting!

@DrAlanQuan It's good to hear of independent testing, though, (and you probably checked to be fair), If I recall correctly, sometimes the readout in various klipper front-ends can be requested speed as opposed to actually hit speeds. I believe this is part of why CNC kitchen for instance, developed their scale measurement system for measuring volumetric flow where the weight of filament can only tell the truth. Nevertheless, I can appreciate the effort.

Yeah I'm definitely relying a lot on what I see on the screen (commanded speed and flow rate on the preview, and live readout on Klipper) versus old school analogue measurement. I don't have the genius of CNC Kitchen to devise fully independent means of analysis. Anyway, just like in medical research we do the best we can, others will critique, and we all learn. Hopefully my data turns out to be reliable.

The instantaneous flow rate of T1 is 90, which is obvious. If it is a continuous and constant flow rate, it is about 55, but it is still about 2 times that of other brands of printers.

You look professional, but it's really just hearsay.

It's definitely not for everybody. The noise would be ok for me in a workshop, not really suitable for inside a home. That said, I don't think anything at the same price point can offer similar performance. A ratrig or voron would cost at least double, and also take much longer to assemble. If I needed rapid prints on a semi regular basis I'd be happy with a T1.

Thanks for watching! Orcaslicer is my software of choice

Iit's also my choice 🤗 . Have you presets specialy ? ​@@DrAlanQuan

Just my speed benchy profile which is basically 1000mm/s everything with no cooling haha

FLSUN certainly know how to make a hotend. I was really impressed with the V400 when I reviewed it earlier this year, and the T1 is a big step up again. I think I'd rather have the V400 at home - the user interface is perfect and it's already fast enough. But if I had to design and print stuff professionally and if noise wasn't a concern the T1 definitely wins. Do you find the build volume of the T1 enough?

The weight isn't so bad, but again I have gotten used to deltas - the T1 can be moved by one person without too much trouble. Way bigger and heavier than a little bedslinger though. In terms of price, so many people seem to be casually buying Bambu X1Cs which cost twice what the T1 does so I think the T1 presents much pretty good value.

Thank you! Do you think the T1 will suit you?

That's awesome! Great size, just takes up more space than I can have in my home!

@@DrAlanQuan yes yes :( but ım hapy show my page youtube vıdeo pks:)

I don't know anybody with that combination so there's no plans to cover this configuration. Good luck with your build!

Hi. Each of the monitors was mounted the way they were for a reason. The 49 was so close to the steering wheel my fingers sometimes touched it. The 57 was mounted a bit further back to clear the motion system. That's a real world consideration that needs to be considered, but yes not a perfect apples to apples comparison.

Hahaha you still get 10 points for Gryffindor

I don't know what that means, but hello 👋

Still a compromise. Triple 32s are like 80" 650R - big and tight No single screen will come close any time soon.

Hi you are correct and this has been pointed out a few times in the comments now. I didn't control for things like monitor distance to driver and also side monitor mounting angle. If I get a chance to redo this test, I will do so with excruciating attention to detail :) For this quick comparison I just took 3 separate rigs that were configured for different purposes, put them side by side and made the comparison. The triple 35s were straight off the RaceKraft Sim centre showroom floor, so built to accommodate easy access for people of all sizes which is why it's mounted far away and with a wide angle. The triple 32s are my own and they're set up close and tight since I can work with that. If you take each example and plus/minus some field of view for each that will give you a reasonable idea of what each of capable of - and the wide gap in function between a single screen and a triple screen remains obvious.

@@DrAlanQuan thanks for the explaination, that makes sense

Totally worth it. I ran triples on an old, underpowered PC as a test. 25-30fps. Not ideal but better than 60fps on a single, in my opinion anyway. Have fun!

Hi, it sounds like you know easy more on this topic than me! Sounds doable, I'm just a simple guy with simple taste. 3 screens, no extra software. Since the screen is in use at RaceKraft I doubt I'll be able to install the software to test. What do you use?