2009 Volkswagen CC 2.0 TSI Cam Chain Tensioner Failure. Top-end DIY! Part 2- Back on the Road!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- So, per my previous vid, the tensioner took a shit and wiped out all 8 exhaust valves and 6 intake valves. After teardown, David Wolff, at Wolff Automotive Machine here in Austin spec'd my head, sourced some used factory VW valves and got the head ready for reinstall. I ordered a top-end/timing kit at www.shopdap.com for timing chains, guides, and all hardware, got my head back from the shop, and the fireworks started flyin!
Thanks for this! I am a Master tech last has been fixing cars in a professional setting for almost 30 years and also owned and operated my own shop for 11 years . I have mostly avoided German cars over the years but recently teamed up with a friend at his shop who specializes in German cars. I found this post very helpful in doing the same job on a 2010 cc. We both poked a little fun at your celebration but it was in good taste! Hope you are still enjoying your repair......Rosco!
HAHA, you bet!!! And thanks Rosco! Yeah, that car had been dead in my driveway for three months, while I read and studied and read some more. I still owed almost 8 grand on the damn thing and was seriously contemplating what it would be like making $400 payments on a car I couldn't drive. I was so glad it didn't shit the bed! This happened at 120k miles and it just turned 147k this past week. Had to replace a water pump in the interim, but aside from that, all is still good! (I just knocked on my wood desk) Thanks for the comment and thanks for watchin!
What a great job and video. My son has a 2005 Audi and the chain tensioner failed after 60000 miles. He bought the car new, and of course the dealer is doing what dealers do, stalling. He used to take it into the dealer for oil changes, but the last few he did himself. He was asked to show proof that he used the correct filter, etc. He bought the the parts on Amazon and they provided the receipts . So far things look OK for Audi paying for a new engine, but we shall see. We did some online research for the Tensioner fails and was shocked to see so many videos with the same problem. Audi had fixed most on the recall so here's hoping. I am 80 years old and many years ago, I worked at an Oldsmobile dealership. That's when someone had a great idea to build a diesel V8 engine on the car motor block. We had those blown up engines piled up in the back of the shop during the recall. Again what a great job on your repair. I know that feeling when all goes well and the dang things starts and runs. Who is that in your rooting section. The person sounds as excited as you. Take care...Ken, retired US Army 20 years and then quit the auto repair business and became a police officer, from Marina California.
Thank you, Mr. Bartlett! I hope your son's car is made right. Nothing like a weak component to destroy what would could potentially be a fairly decent engine. I remember those Olds diesel engines and that whole debacle. My grandfather owned a service station and my uncle was his mechanic. I think I recall my grandfather making some money buying those cars for pennies on the dollar and swapping out the diesels for gas. And the person recording is my wife. She was very excited for me, LOL. She's fior sure my biggest fan. Thank you for your service, sir. My family and I appreciate your and your family's service and sacrifice. I hope you and yours are safe from the wildfires out there. Take care! KT
It hurts doing 5 a week
Nice work! Thanks for the purchase. We really appreciate it very much.
Ayyy!! You bet! Thanks for the kind words. Your vids and tech articles helped me with the confidence to take this one on. It's been a little over a year and 35k miles later and it's still goin strong. I'll be uploading a video of the water pump changeout, which I bought from you guys and Paul himself helped me with selecting. Seems VW's revised that one a few times too. Thanks for stoppin by!
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I want to congratulate you for your work. I have a CC 2008 2.0TSI 200Hp and I had some problems too but now that I see your video I am afraid :)) Hope that all go well. Congrats.
Thank you very much! It was very difficult, but it all went well and it's still running strong 30,000 miles later. Good luck with yours, sorry to hear about the trouble. :-/
Congrats on getting it running, that was a big job you are now a certified VW mechanic great job KT!
Thanks Sam! LOL, man I feel like one after reading all the crap i had to in order to get it back together! With the right tools and the ability to teach yourself, anyone can accomplish anything. Just about! Thanks for watchin, hope all is going well!
The moment it starts so damn precious feeling :P
LOL Yep! I looked lie a goof, I couldn't control myself. haha
@@512kjt we've all been there ;) BTW, I lived in Austin back in the late 90s (N. Lamar area, and a short time down off East Riverside :O ). Born/Raised Texas and now live in the communist state of Virginia.
I have a 2010 Passat 2.0 TSI chipped & just spent $3,000 & change to replace upper & lower timing chains, guides, tensioner, new cover, decarbon intake valves, plugs, and replaced intake rail & air bag under warranty. I did this with 92,500 miles and running fine, and I made this preemptive & expensive maintenance decision in large part on your video, and others who have been left with a dead car due to failed timing chain tensioners. I went ahead with new chains & guides since these also have a history of failure, and wish I had replaced the oil pump too while it was accessible, but I haven't heard as many stories about oil pump failures as I have tensioners & chains. I did note allot of valve clicking at idle before, none after, and the engine pulls harder than ever. I'm glad I had VW do it, I just hope I get another 100K miles out of it to justify my decision.
Great video, I applaud your patience & perseverance!
Tim in Greensboro NC
I LOVE my CC! But she's a lustful temptress. As bad as she's been to me I can't let her go yet.
I believe your money was well spent, as long as the shop did what they said they would do and care about their customers and the cars they service. I think you will be fine without the oil pump. That was an issue with the FSI more so than the TSI. I did this work at 120k miles and I'm now at 170k and still going. No oil consumption, no timing issues, but I have replaced a rear main seal and water pump, along with a clutch and pressure plate while i had it in pieces. I wish I had known. I would have taken the preventive measures you did. Good luck! I believe you'll get a solid 250k out of your Passat! Thanks for watching and for the helpful comments!
Thank you so much for posting this. It is hard to find any DIY's on this job (probably because it is such an ass-pain) but I took on a friends Tiguan that the shop replaced the chains but didn't pull the head so now I am doing that to replace the valves. My wife also has an A3 that I need to do the tensioner and chains on too. What a pain this engine is to work on. I have been a fan of VW's for over 20 years and always enjoyed working on them but the TSI has put a pretty bad taste in my mouth. Thanks again, I am feeling a lot more confident after watching your videos.
Awesome Brendan! I read and studied my ass off on this process and that's how I was able to get it done. I used a subscription service for the manual called alldatadiy.com. I still have my subscription so let me know if I can look anything up for you. Dude, I love the styling of my CC. To me it's a beautiful fucking car. I just hate that the build quality is so low. I don't know where VW decided to take the turn to profits over quality, but it was surely before this car hit the streets. God luck on your endeavors. I will be checking on to see if I can help with anything. Cheers!
I cant tell you how much joy you brought me by completing that thing! Not an easy task!!
HA! It was definitely a challenge. I was sooooo relieved when it started up. Aside from not having the charge pipe clamp from the turbo to the intercooler installed properly and blowing the charge pipe off (which scared the hell out of me haha, those little turbos push a surprising amount of pressure) it all went back together and is still running 34k miles later :-) Thanks for celebrating with me!!! LOL!
going through the same thing right now with my 08 wolfsburg... man you are a god! great work, looking foward to more videos. Well played sir
Awww... dude that sucks.Thanks for the kind words, though and I appreciate you watchin! I'll be doing a thermostat replacement soon as I've been getting an engine coolant temp code. It isn't running too hot but the thermostat isn't allowing the engine to get up to temp fast enough so it's throwing a code. I'll get that recorded too. :-)
It's a joy to watch you narrating...Congrats !
Thank you! LOL, I talk too much sometimes and have to edit some stuff out. I try to keep my thoughts in order and stick to the point, but sometimes I go off on a rant. Like this comment, haha. I'll be doing a new video on this car soon. I am replacing the water pump and it's going to be a beast, so be on the lookout if you need more tips on the 2.0 TSI engine. Thanks for watchin!
Great ! Thank you. Btw, you don't talk "too much". The way you explain is the state of the art how to narrate.
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words!!!
Man seeing the amount of happiness on his face was fucking Golden. Cheers mate! 🤙🏻
Haha, thanks mate! I was soooo relieved when is settled down. Now I have to change out the rear main seal that's leaking. Not gonna be fun!
You are my hero man! I saw many videos but this one was explain very detailed I had the same problem with my car So I took the Same problem so i was like you. To take the mechanical challenge and I finally did it! I felt the same emotion since I started the engine. What a difference to be honest sounds like new. I couldn’t find the words better than thank you
That's awesome! Congratulations Rudy!!!
I enjoy watching smart people working on German vehicles. Great Job.
Thank you kindly, ma'am! ;-)
6:20 perfectly captures that feeling after a long ass repair and everything turns on and runs fine. 100% with you
Thanks Woody! Definitely a feeling of accomplishment for a shade tree mechanic like me!
thank you for your time , these are well presented and i appreciate the level of details
Thank you! I wish I could have done a better job with recording the video as the job progressed, but I had to focus my attention on the task at hand. I appreciate your kind words!
that's an amazing challenge buddy, very very very great job, i had a passat 2009 2.0TSi engine with a lot of issues, it jerk so much on idle when i start it early morning in cool weather, High RPM some times, Engine Fault notification Sometime, i hope i can repair it myself like you, you really gave me a positive energy to start doing it myself :)
Thank you very much for the kindness! Sorry for the late reply. The 2.0 TSI engines have a problem with carbon build up in the intake ports and on the intake valves. It can cause stalling, misfires, poor fuel economy, jerky hesitation and accelerations. In Part 1, I put the link in the description section for a video I watched on how to remove the intake and clean the carbon deposits. Also, there is a warranty issue on the intakes where they can warp and cause the issues you are describing. How many miles/km are on the car?
512kjt thanks alot dear for reply my Passat milage is 155000km....also I never changed my transmission oil and filter should I change them ??? and is it easy to do it ?
If the transmission fluid and filter have never been replaced, I would replace them. Depending on the transmission (I am assuming you have an automatic) change intervals are at a minimum every 70,000 km. My CC has a manual transmission, so I've never had to replace it. It seems fairly complicated with some specialized tools required for the automatic or DSG transmissions. I would attempt it if mine had an automatic, but that's me. If you don't have advanced mechanical skills, I would recommend taking it to a shop. It isn't your average transmission fluid and filter change. Good luck!
I dont think ive ever heard a more well deserved " fu*k yeah!" in my life. 👍👍👍 Awesome job, kudos!
Great job, well done and thanks for making such a helpful video. I laughed at the “2000 years later" bit. Ha. Really rang true with me and home garage work
Haha thanks!! Yeah, that's my life.
Good feeling to get something figured out after working on it a long time.
You got that right Sam!!! Almost three months from failure to restart. Nothing like a Chevy small block for sure. Thanks for watchin and commenting!
I do this every day for work. Every time I start the car after timing chain job, I cringe and hope it goes well
Yeah, that cringe. I can see why. She rattled pretty good on first start but settled on down after a few seconds. Good on you for being a tech this day and age. These things are getting more and more intricate and technical every year.
Great video! Just had tensioners replaced in my 2011 CC...wish I could have done them myself as you did, and save the $1700, but mine no longer sounds like a diesel on startup also. Your vid is a win for all of us!
Ayy Eric, thanks for the kind words! Sorry to hear about your CC, but glad you got it taken care of. I'm at 165,000 on it now, 45,000 miles later and aside from the water pump and now a rear main seal, it's still running fine. Zero oil consumption at 10,000 mile oil changes. Well, at least until it started leaking. Thanks for watchin!
i cant find my original comment anymore but thank you a ton for all your help, we are just starting to finish up now, got the exhaust manifold and chains finished up yesterday, honestly installing the cam chains was the easiest part of the whole thing lol! your videos + a bentley manual helped alot, still ran into a few different things that were quite difficult i thought i should add, you have to remove the bearing bracket before you take the chains off, the crankshaft wheel is a PITA we used heat plus a breaker(spent 3+ hours on just this part unfortunately), and by far the worst part is removing the exhaust manifold, but i still think its considerably easier then removing the turbo(spent a whole day on removing the intake mani(really easy) and exhaust manifold. With 2 guys, one with little mechanical experience(me) we are about 18 hours in with just the intake install and plugging everything back in.
@512kjt thank you so much for your videos and extra speedy responses to my questions! one more question to pick your brain, while i was following the guide it said to spin the crank to make sure nothing is hitting the pistons after everything is in place. i did this and it was all good, but i just assumed it would line back up on the colored chains, which it did not. after thinking about it, theoretically it wont line back up in hundreds or thousands of rotations, correct?
Hey Justin, sorry for the late response and you are very welcome!! I actually rolled it over again and again until the marks lined back up. I don't recall how many rotations but I know it was well into the dozens and probably took me about an hour to get it back around where all of the marks lined back up, but they did. That was when I went ahead with the final assembly and buttoned it all up. It can be done, but it took a lot of patience. I was confident that I had it all lined up. I just wanted to see for myself that they all lined up once more.
512kjt thanks we were confident it was right and moved forward, started right up:) still having a couple issues though unfortunately, oil leak at the turbo and misfire at high boost on cyl 1, hopefully it's a coil or plug
Great videos. Thanks for documenting your project. It will be a great help when I attempt the same on my Tiguan. I'm hoping I don't have to deal with valve replacement, since it failed on startup in my driveway (immediately after a 700 round trip).
Keep your fingers crossed! Many that fail on start up only jump time enough for the engine to not start. Those are the ones that just need a re-synching of the timing and a new tensioner (depending on engine mileage).
+Greg M | I can't reply to your comment for some reason... Thank you very much for the kind words! It was definitely a challenge. And thanks for the compliment on the bike. Leave it up to another biker to spot my R6S. I see your avatar is a bike and if you're interested, I also do motovlogs on my other TH-cam channel, TexR6s. Thanks for watchin!
Glad ya got it running... Just a quick thought: Wouldn't checking the tensioners when there's a rough running issue or at least every 100,000 miles be a good idea as a preventative measure to stop you from melding valves to pistons?... Looks like your car was right over the 100K mark when that tensioner took a sh^t
is that a year ago already ? I'll check your TexR6s channel out ;)
Excelente trabajo amigo!
Me encanto tu expresión de felicidad cuando encendió el motor!
Esa sensación es increíble.
Y gracias por compartir con nosotros tu conocimiento.
Muchas gracias!!! Tuve mucha felicidad cuando empezó! Gracias por su visita!
I just saw your entire video and thought about what I could say to you and your ordeal with this VW CC. First a word of caution, if I were you I would be careful with those VW forums. It has been my experience that in order to come away with any significant knowledge it will require from you the ability to disregard inaccuracies and take into account accurate information; that's a challenge on its own. There's a lot of inaccurate information regarding mechanically complex issues on VW forums. In my own case I've solved this issue by buying the correct repair manual for my current car. You can pick-up one for your car at any automotive parts store or just buy on line. These repair manuals always include the most important steps in getting your engine working like new as well as other aspects of car maintenance. The second part of my comment is more conversational than anything else. I too am my own mechanic and have relied on these tips I just shared with you to keep my VW Golf on the road ever since I got it. Unlike your CC my Golf is mechanically simple and doesn't have so many potential fatal problems that can occur do to a highly complex engine design. Your CC's engine contains many plastic components forming part of your timing and intake architecture and they will fail at some point in time. My suggestion for the future is to shop on line for upgrade parts that are made of metal and sold by performance web stores and will fit your engine type. I've found that whenever possible replacing plastic components with high quality metal ones will ensure that part failure will be a thing of the past. You did a great job with this one and I can see why you're happy with your self; I too get goofy when I prevail over difficult car jobs. Good luck!
Thank you for the comment and for sharing the advice. I too, found some of the forum details lacking which is why I ended up using the alldatadiy.com online repair and service manual. It isn't the best resource, but it was helpful. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
Awesome to watch! I'm stoked for you!
Haha!!! Thanks, I appreciate it!!! 12,000 mile later and she's still running strong!
Man this video just made my day unfortunately my vehicle is in the shop for that issue right now
Sorry to hear that. I hope they can take care of it for you and at a fair price!
Well done awesome work! My 2011 Audi A3 2.0TFSI always rattles on startup and I thought that was normal too but 2 weeks ago It died from suspected chain tensioner failure at 65K miles. I have contemplated doing a DIY fix but I don't think I have the knowledge or spare time. I'm in the UK and trying to get Audi to cover the cost but I'm out of warranty and things don't look too clever at the moment.
Thank you for watching!There is a class action lawsuit here in the U.S. where participants are getting their warranties extended and the repairs covered or the cost of repairs reimbursed. Is there something similar there in the UK where owner/victims can recoup these costs of inferior design and negligence in communications?
can you imagine if you had put it all back together without double checking your work ?? great call on double checking before you buttoned it up !!
Thanks! Truth!!! I've heard from a couple of folks on that topic and it has happened. This car would probably still be sitting in my driveway, if that had happened to me, because I don't think I was ready for Round 2. LOL
Well done mate. Daunting job.
Thank you for the kind words and thanks for watchin, mate!!!
Well done, a great job. This video is just what I need theese days as my engine have had a break down, its an 1,8 tsi CDAA in a Skoda. My local workshop, which I'm never ever gonna use again, is charging me half the cars value for fixing it up. Lucky for me guys like you is around and solves problems by making theese videos. Thank you so much.
Now, as for reinstalling the cylinder head, you need a certain amont of tools, right? Colud you make a list of excactly what you need? And what about torquing? That's something I havent found.
Again, thanx a lot.
Hi folks-I am looking at buying an '09 with the 2.5L engine.
It is my understanding that the timing belt tensioner can be an issue, but from what I have seen, this is more of a problem in the 2.0T engines.
My question is: From everyone's experience, is the 2.5 a substantially-different engine? Best information I could find is that the 2.5 is a 20 V, 5cyl DOHC engine. Does it have a belt or a chain, and is it an interference engine? Most importantly, if I buy this car, should I be planning to replace the belt/chain right away, for safety's (of the engine) sake?
Great videos. I have not been through the same problems you have yet, thank goodness. I have a 2010 VW CC with the 2.0t tsi. My question to you is can I change the old tensioner in my car with the new upgraded tensioner without removing the timing chains? I would like to do that before my goes bad and tears everything else up. I have been looking for videos for this but you are the only one I have found that tears into it. I have seen some for Audi 2.0t, but didn't know if it was the same motor or not. Thanks in advance
Hey Tim, sorry for the slow reply. Yes, you can replace the tensioner without removing the timing chains, but it does involves removing the crankshaft pulley and the timing chain cover, which requires a special tool for holding the pulley while removing the large crankshaft bolt, and a special spacer to hold all of the gears in place while you remove the rest of the components. You will also likely have to buys another timing chain cover since the sealant they use on them is so strong that you will likely bend or warp the cover trying to remove it. The Audi TSI engines are the same, with the exception of the plastic covers.
Yes you can..I have a 2010 vw passat with same engine and replaced the tensioner with the latest one (version K) without removing the timing chains. Took me 6 hours to complete the job. You should do it soon before the engine goes Kaput
how do you install the exhaust manifold?
Good job man!
Thanks for posting.
Thank you!!! and you are very welcome. Thanks for taking time to watch my vid!
hey, great video!
Do you have any photos or videos of the cam cover and valve cover going back on? I have an Audi A4 with a similar motor and I need to change the gaskets but don't know what needs to be removed ect.
Hey weeees5, thanks for the compliment! The camshaft cover doesn't actually have a gasket. In Part 1, I have the head set on the work bench and explain how VW uses only gasket maker on the camshaft cover. The plastic on on the front of the engine does have a gasket, though. Where is the oil leak coming from?
It's towards the front of the motor seeping from under the valve cover. O'Riley's had a gasket set for the valves and the cam, guess it's like my rear brakes they had on file.... wrong. lol
oh! and I have the Quattro model, so my engine isn't side saddle. it's close to the cam cover that's leaking.
What year is your Quattro? And , yeah, good thing you've got the Quattro, because these motors are a pain to work on when transverse.
Yyeaayuuuhhh. So knowledgeable man. Awesome work.
Man I know that feeling when all that work comes together, Fuck yesss! Loved that, nice video
Thanks!!!!
that's awesome! I think that one last deep breath is standard operating procedure before turning the key. great job.. over all.. how long did it take?
Thanks!! So true, I was anxious to get it started but scared as hell too! Actual hands on, it probably took me about 25 hours. If I have to do it again, that time will likely be cut in half because it always takes you twice as long to do something the first time. For me anyways! Thanks for watchin!
I know that feeling man. Nice work
Ha thanks! Yeah, I was definitely holding my breath on this one. Thanks for watchin
I have problem with vw passat 2009
Timing chain jumped
Intake valves bent,i replaced all intake valves,timing chain kit,cam bridge . but now misfire in 1 and 2 cylinders
No compression in both cylinders
Sounds like the timing is off on the valve train. You have to line up all of the timing components, crankshaft to crankshaft timing gear, crankshaft timing gear to the right mark on the timing chain and both cam gears to the proper timing marks on the timing chain. As you can see, I got my chain off by one tooth and had to redo it. It is easy to do if you are not very careful. Were the pistons in good shape when you tore down the engine? Besides a damaged piston or cylinder wall, the only thing that can cause low or no compression would be valves not seating or being held open during a compression stroke by being out of time.
Great video man!
Do you know what would cause a 2.0 tsi to have low compression? And if so should I drive or wait till I fix it?
Excellent job there Kenny ! Well done, all the kudos is well deserved. Nice bike too, btw :-)
oh one thing I forgot to ask .. and for those who watch this vid should take as a huge hint . have you owned your car since new ? you talked about rattle when you start it an you didnt know that was not normal. Did the noise start slowly or had it been there since you bought the car ??
I bought my car with 36,000 miles on it. Lease return and Certified Pre-Owned from a local VW dealer here in Austin in December 2012. At that time VW and their dealers already knew this was an issue and had produced revised parts for replacements and new production. The sound was there from the beginning, but very slight and short, like less than a second. As time and mileage went on, it got louder and lasted for longer periods, some times up to three seconds. That's what it was doing when it failed. I changed oil every 10k with LiquiMoly factory spec oil and Mann filters. Zero oil consumption in 10k miles at every oil change. Even now with 163k miles on it, no oil consumption at oil changes.
My father had the head redone, but his timing keeps jumping off we replaced the tensioner and we are going crazy wondering what's causing the timing to skip
New chain and guides too or just a new tensioner? Camshaft position sensor good? Crankshaft gear indexed properly on the crankshaft. VW left too many weak links on this engine when it comes to getting the timing components all sync'd up.
Way to go Kenny ! Success is always sweet ;)
Thank you, Cary! This one was especially. Thanks for stoppin by!
That is so awesome! Congrats bud.
Thank Erik! Hopefully now I can start working on the fun stuff again! Thanks for dropping by!
6:01, been there, done that, know the feeling 100%. Good work!
Thank you! Doing a rear main seal and clutch kit on it now. Ugh! Thanks for watching!
BTW, what the iPhone app you used to determine the engine Fault Code??????
Hello Hany! I used a program called OBD Fusion and an OBD wireless module that plugs into the OBDII port made by a company called VEEPEAK. I have another video here on my channel where I replaced the alternator on my 1997 Tahoe and I go over the VEEPEAK and the OBD Fusion software. Thanks for watching!
Great video, I am doing a 2009 Audi A4 Quattro right now. Thanks for the video.
Thanks! Good luck on the A4!
I got the Audi running. I know exactly how you must have felt. I had the timing chain tensioner fail right at start up. I shut it off right away and hoped for the best. I did the chain and did a compression test. I got between 125 up to 180 so I figured no bent valves. Thanks for the video. Randy
Awesome! Congrats on the repair and ducking the catastrophic failure! Take care! KT
All that plastic inside the engine... Ugh. Makes me want to stick to old cars where parts were made to last. I am in the process of doing a timing chain service on a 93 Nissan pickup. It had a plastic guide on one side of the chain, but Nissan learned from those failures and modified the guide. They are metal backed plastic now and last a long time.
Nice job, good luck with the future of this motor.
Thanks Kro- Man! Yeah, I'm 52 and I'm partial to the older stuff, but at some point i have to decide where I'm gonna hang out. Should I hang on to the old, should I grab on to the new.... The car's still hangin in there. I've got another 47,000 miles on her. we'll see where it all ends. Thanks for watchin!
512kjt - It seems that these timing chain tensioners are a known problem and that an owner of a VW 2.0 engine should put these parts on a schedule to be replaced every 80k miles or so. If you change the tensioner(s) as if it were a part of the regular maintenance maybe it would spare the valves?
I have at tiguan 2009 around to six months i rebuild the engine head, changed the camshafts and timing chain tensioner the tiguan work good for couple months but now The truck don't run ,some times start like diesel engine ver y noise ..but now i dont know what can i do...
Hey Ivan, I thought replied already... That's too bad about your Tiguan. Did it run good after the rebuild? No problems?
It's better to start it than to crank it , it'll build oil pressure much faster if you start it rather than cranking it ....the chain has a higher chance of jumping while just cranking
Thank you for that advice, makes sense. Hopefully others will see your comment and learn something. Thanks for sharing!
512kjt were did you get your cam holding tools?
Ordered them off of Amazon. Came with the two cam locks, two tensioner holding clips, the bcrankshaft pulley tool, the spacer for the timing gear and a bolt. The bolt that came with my kit didn't fit the crankshaft so I just re-used my crankshaft bolt to install the spacer and hold everything together. It also included four dowel pins, but I think those are for a different version of the engine, I think the FSI. I didn't use them.
Hey Sir, I am trying to replace the upper timing chain cover gasket on my 2011 VW Tiguan . Do you know how I can do that? I can easily get to the upper 3 screws, the bottom two are a pain but I read somewhere to take the mount off and replace it. Also how can I get the magnet off? All the help is greatly appreciated.
hi snktrd! The magnet comes off by removing the three bolts. It should slide out and come off after the bolt removal. Unfortunately, the motor mount has to come off in order to get to the two lower bolts. i wouldn't worry about replacing it. They are pretty beefy and you would have to be a pretty hard driver to tear them up. My CC has 155k on it now and the mounts are still in great shape. Good luck!
512kjt thank you
You're awesome DIY mechanic. I enjoyed watching your video very much. Thanks for sharing with the world of your knowledge on how to replace a VW timing chain. I had no idea of when VW starts replacing their cars with a timing chain until I just purchased a 2016 Golf. Now, after watching your video, it is kind of concern to me but I have a long way to go before I'll get this point. Lol. I am hoping VW has already address this timing chain issue? Does anyone have any knowledge for the 2016?
Wow, thank you very much for the compliment, I appreciate that! VW has redesigned this five times since the original and I have heard of any issues with the 2013 and later models. The motors are designed for 250,000 miles and the tensioners were not mentioned as maintenance items. Previously, VW used a timing BELT on these engines, which were maintenance items and had recommended replacement intervals. They redesigned the engines for chains to last the life of the engines but the tensioners are the weak link. When I removed all of the chains and guides for the repair at 120,000 miles, they all looked to be in really good shape.
Awesome work bud! I would have done the same celebration lol. I do have a quick question. If i remove the valve cover slash cam girdle on top of engine do to leaking will it mess with the timing? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Thanks Joe! No, it should not mess with the timing as long as you are careful when you remove the cover. The small upper timing chain guide attached to the cover holds the timing chain tight against the camshaft gears, and by removing the upper cover you do remove a small bit of tension from the chain, but it should not be enough to allow the cams to jump time. If I was doing this on mine, I would remove the upper timing cover and use a paint pen, or some other means to mark a spot on the cams and a corresponding links on the chains. That way if it does jump by a tooth, I would know where to sync it back to. Also, I would order a new upper chain guide. Cheap and easy to replace while the cover is off.
I've used the anaerobic sealant twice now and it continues to leak. The real question is, how has your sealant held up?
So far, so good! No issues with the sealants at all.
Im having the exact problem you are havin my car its not starting.the change its strectched out
That's too bad. It's definitely not an easy fix. Good luck!
hey great video, im Jose
i have a 2010 gti with 130,xxx miles it rattles at start up and i too thought it was normal
but a week a go, on my birthday!!, i got some codes, i erased them to see if they re-appeared on my commute to work
they did it was the p0016 code
my car still turns on and runs, but im not using it for right now
could the problem be just the tensioner or is my chain stretched out now?
switching out the tensioner seems really doable but doing the chains does seem like a task ill have to research a lot
but i did do a valve cleaning and switched out the intake manifold on my own and im studying to be a mechanical engineer so i will tackle it on so do u have any tips or links that you think would really help me?
The cradle that bolts onto the end of the camshafts, does it need any rtv one is rtv only used on the “valve cover”?
None on the cam bridge, only on the valve cover. Check out Part 1 here th-cam.com/video/wGqF5xHx3tE/w-d-xo.htmlm7s where I mention the location of the sealant. Do not apply sealant to the small slots in the cam bearing girdles that span across the width. Those are small hole designed to equalize pressure imbalances between the four sections and allow the PCV assembly to pull from all areas once the valve cover is bolted back down.
Congratulations for the successful attempt to fix your own car. Quite inspirational for many people judging from the comments here. I would like to hear your opinion as I’m thinking to buy a cc within the next days. I really like the line of the car and I can call myself a vw guy as I had a couple of them in the past. My last vw was a Golf Gti from 2006 and I only had a mechatron failure(it’s an expensive repair too). The engine of Gti was 2.0 Tfsi so basically the same engine like the Passat??
What do you say? Shall I proceed or not with the purchase?
Sorry! I had written a very long response, but it doesn't look like it posted. Did you end up getting the CC?
great job i was so happy when it started
Ha, thanks Hanson! So was I, brotha! So was I! Thanks for watchin!
I have a 2011 CC RLine. Ran fine in the morning. Got back in it 10 mins later. Check engine light came on and EPC light. Started running very rough and low power. Got it parked and turned off. Now it won't turn on. Shop thinks engine is gone because chain let go. Is this engine really scrap or how can I go about diagnosing it? Only 110,00 miles on it. Please let me know your thoughts as I have no cash for a new engine.
Sorry for the delayed reply, traveled for the weekend. At 110k, your engine, timing components notwithstanding, isn't even halfway used up. EPC stands for Electronic Pedal Control and there are three components for that system... the gas pedal itself, the throttle body actuator and the harness in between the two. If you can, get a code reader and check the diagnostic trouble codes
that are stored. DO NOT UNPLUG THE BATTERY or the codes will clear. That error code alone isn't indicative of a destroyed engine, but other error codes could be a better indicator of what may have happened when you tried to restart it. Timing issues will show up as error codes on issues like camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor or engine speed sensor. Ask the shop that condemned it if they have a report on the codes that were pulled. Regarding the timing chain, the chain wouldn't "let go" per se, but due to the shitty tensioners it could go slack enough to allow the chain to jump time. If the engine was running when you shut it off and it didn't die do to a catastrophic failure like mine, there should be minimal damage, if any, to the valves, pistons and head.
To diagnose the timing chain, timing phasing and bent valves- Does it make a terrible cracking or knocking sound if you try to start it? If not, when you crank the engine and it spins freely like there is no resistance, you have lost compression on all cylinders, timing has jumped. If you have lost compression on one or some of the cylinders, but not all, the engine will sound funny while cranking, timing has jumped. Rent or buy a compression tester and check compression in each cylinder to see if one or more cylinders are way out of line with the other cylinders. Check youtube for videos on how to use a compression tester if you haven't used one before. There are hundreds of them out there. The compression test will also diagnose possible bent valves. If the compression tests are okay, you'll need to verify that your timing between the crankshaft and the intake and exhaust cams is still in sync. The timing can be off by one or two teeth on either camshaft and still show good compression.
To diagnose the engine timing, you'll need to remove the upper timing cover to access the camshafts and timing gears and chain. You will need to rotate the engine and try to sync the timing marks on the camshafts with the colored links on the timing chain. To do this, you will need a socket (I don't remember the size of the crankshaft bolt) and a breakover bar or large 1/2" drive ratchet to rotate the engine until you get the two camshaft timing marks lined up with the colored links on the chain. This could take up to 40-50 revolutions to get all of the timing marks and colored links in place, so be patient. If and when you finally get the two camshaft timing marks lined up with the colored links on the chain, you will need to check to see if cylinder #1 is at Top Dead Center or TDC or Bottom Dead Center. There IS a timing mark on the crankshaft pulley, but there is nothing definitive to locate TDC or BDC. Best way to do this, with #1 spark plug removed, use a solid plastic or wooden dowel at least 12" long that is small enough to fit into the spark plug hole, but large enough so it doesn't fall over and slide down into the cylinder at an angle, and carefully slide it down into the cylinder. Rotate the engine back and forth approx 15°. The piston will should be on the compression stroke and at TDC or on the exhaust stroke at BDC, like being on a peak or in a valley, and as you rotate the engine back and forth, the dowel should move slightly up and down (less than a half inch) indicating it's at the end of the stroke. If it is in the middle of a stroke, the dowel will move an inch or two with that same 15°. If that is the case, the cylinder timing is out of sync and the timing has jumped.
Thanks for the info. My mechanic confirms that the engine is too expensive to rebuild. So, i will be grabbing a used complete engine with 37,000miles. Comes with 30 month / unlimited mile warranty. there goes 4K. LOL!
I've got my CBFA 2.0tsi engine entirely pulled for POS cam chain tensioner. I was hoping you could help me with the procedure you used for re-installing the cam shafts and valve cover to the cylinder head. I have the two specialty cam locking pins, but I'm not 100% sure the cams are positioned the correct way in my cylinder head.
Once you get the cams in the head and close to position with the timing marks on the camshaft gears, you can reinstall the valve cover and torque per the factory sequence and torque values. Very important to torque in sequence and to the correct values for the cam cover bolts. I assumes you have already done this but I'll say it here in case someone else need the information.
In order to install the camshaft locking pins, you have to remove the cam bearing bridge which is bolted to the front of the head where the camshaft gears are. To do this, you must remove the locking collar on the front of the intake cam that holds the variable timing actuator on. One of the tools in the kit I purchased fits onto a 3/8" drive and is a ring shape with two dowel pins. The locking ring has left-handed threads, so you have to go clockwise to loosen it and counter-clockwise to tighten it. Once you get the locking ring and the cam timing actuator off, you can remove the cam bridge. The locking pins bolt to the head below both of the camshafts and the points lock into the camshaft gears to hold them in place while you install the timing chain. Use the colored links on the timing chain to make sure the cams are timed properly with the chain. The engine must be Cylinder 1 Top Dead Center when you install the cams and line the timing marks up on the cam chain with the intake and exhaust cam gears and the crankshaft gear. Once the chain is installed and all timing marks are aligned release the clip on the cam chain tensioner. Remove the cam locking pins and immediately install the cam bridge to make sure everything stays in place. Check all three timing marks (six if you're doing the balancing chain also) before you reinstall any of the covers.
Thanks so much.
I was a bit worried after I had all 6 timing marks lined up and tensioned appropriately. The first time I did this, I wanted to make sure that everything stayed in time, so I rotated the crank in the direction of engine rotation for several revolutions to find that the two timing marks on the cams were always lined up with my valve cover markings, but were not lined up with the colored timing chain links. After doing a bit of research, I found that it takes 166 revolutions for the timing links on the chain to sync with the timing marks on the cam gears.
This job would be so much easier if the engine were transverse.
Thanks for posting your video. Hopefully I don't throw any torque wrenches through the wind screen.
.
msushorty9
Awesome!!! I did the same thing after rotating one revolution to check for clearances. I didn't count, but I know I rotated the engine one rotation at a time for over an hour. and yes it would be MUCH easier working off the front of the car and not from the side with hardly any clearance. Good luck!!!
I just LOST IT haha 2000 YEARS LATER lmfao 😂😂😂 I've been there a few times good videos though
Thanks LOL! I always crack up when people put those in their vids, figured I was use one too. :-) Thanks for watchin!
+512kjt haha not a problem thanks for the great writeup and motivation ... doing this in the next year or so finally hit 70k and don't want to go too far on the original tensioner plus I want to build the bottom end for some more power
Nice :-) They are cool little engines with a lot of potential. Just need to weed out the weak links!
im a tech at the dealer. this was pretty amusing. thanks.
You bet! Stick around for my water pump replacement vid, it'll prolly give you a chuckle too. Thanks for stoppin by!
My Audi A3 tfsi won't rev up to 4000rpm the timing is on points it shows epc and engine lights on and doesn't start at a first kick please kindly advise
I'm now having the same problem with EPC, which is Electronic Pedal Control. It's the fly-by-wire control for the throttle body. I replaced the gas pedal already, next is the throttle body itself, but I haven't done that yet.
Good for you - that isn't a simple thing you've done!
Tell me about your ODB and cell phone - I'd like to buy something like that - can you give the spec for it?
Thanks Dane! The app is called ODBFusion and it was $9.99 in the Apple app store. The plug-in adapter is made by Veepeak. I bought it on Amazon for $17.99 here: amzn.com/B00WPW6BAE I bought this one because I don't have any Android and this one had the best ratings I could find for an iOS device.
It's a fairly basic code reader but it works off of wireless. When you plug it in, it powers up the wireless signal and you just use your phone to connect. I've used it on my wife's 2008 Saturn Outlook, my 97 Tahoe (the main reason for buying since that truck had many issues when I bought it) a 2001 Chev Silverado and my 09 VW CC. It even has a dashboard you can monitor while driving to read just about every input value that' going to the ECM, except oil pressure, which I find weird. I'm working on a video now where I changed the alternator on my Tahoe and I go a little more in depth with the Veepeak and the app. I'll try to get it up tonight. Thanks for watchin!
A video on it would be a super idea - there is a whole world of OBD out there with just a bit of information on. I'm a newbie on it, but just ordered a WiFi link and will be downloading Fusion when I get the doggle. Thanks again for your videos - you do great work.
Did you just have the engine supported with a jack under the oil pan the entire time? Thanks
That was it. It doesn't weigh that much at the point where I had it supported. I just didn't want the weight of the engine and transmission resting only on the driver side engine mount.
any chance you can tell me where is the Crankshaft sensor located on this car and how to remove it? I appreciate it
If you are looking at the front of the engine with the crankshaft pulley facing you, there is a crankshaft position/engine speed sensor located on the lower right side of the engine at the bottom, just above the oil pan. Facing the side of the engine, It is just below and to the right of the water pump and about three inches to the left of the starter. There is a single bolt, T40, I believe, holding it in place.
Awesome vid! I didn't see if you had to lock the crankshaft when you set the timing or you just set it with the chain link? Did you assemble the head then set it on the block?
Thanks! Nope, didn't have to lock the crankshaft. I just set it at cylinder #1 top dead center and was careful not to rotate it while syncing the timing. I also used the spacer that came with the tool kit to keep the crankshaft pulley snugged up against the crankshaft to keep it from spinning on the crankshaft while the work went on. I actually assembled the head when it was on the block. You can do it either way. Mine had to be completely disassembled and rebuilt, so the cam cover was off already. I figured it would be easier to assemble while it was bolted to the block instead of sliding around on my workbench and I didn't have a lot of bench space to work with anyway LOL.
Ah ok thats good to know usually audi / vw want you to lock the crank and i couldn't find any access plug , I'm almost finish a 2011 A4 same motor but the intake valves only bent but the only problem I'm having is the 4 cam pin locks installation I didn't see them in your video and alldata is not clear it say install them rotate the crankshaft 4 times then remove them at TDC but they wont stay in when you turn the engine so I'm suspecting the sliders on the exhaust cam are in the wrong spots :-(
Very good video. Very instructive and inspiring. I have one question. How do you know it is time for the cam chain tensioner to be replaced. I mean, what are the synptoms. Does the engine rattle like a diesel or something ? My 2007 passat turbo rattles after I start it but only for about a minute or two. Do you think that's maybe cos it is cold or do I need to replace the tensioner ? Thank you very much in advance and keep up the good work.
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words! I think the 2007 had the previous version of this motor, the FSI. I'm not sure about that engine, but mine did rattle upon start-up. The symptoms would be a rattle, loss of power and sometimes the ECM will even throw a code and turn on the check engine light for misfires or incorrect camshaft positioning or timing. My car no longer rattles on start-up after replacing the chains and tensioner, even when it's cold and has been sitting for a few days. I would check forums and websites for information on the tensioner for your style of engine. If you had a 2010 2.0 TSI I would advise that you replace the tensioner, but I don't know if the FSI tensioner is as problematic as the TSI. Either way I would take it to a shop familiar with the VW engines and at least get a quick opinion. Good luck!
How many hours did it took you to do the repair. I have a 2009 VW passat that the timing chain broke. We dont see any compression so we think valves got damaged. I am debating if its worth repairing (rebuilt) or buy a used engine
It took me a little over 20 hours, from the time I removed the first bolt up to the time I closed the hood. I have about $1,500 in parts and machine work. Shops are charging around $4k for a full top end rebuild like this and I think used engines are going for about the same price. I think what you decide to do also depend on how many miles you car has on it now.
I am attempting this same job. At the moment I am stll trying to get the cyl. head off. For the exhaust did you remove the turbo or just remove the exhaust manifold nuts to unbolt it from the head?
Thomas, found this in a recent reply to another viewer:
You have to remove the heat shield covering the manifold and there are two bolts holding it in place. One on the drivers side is a flat widehead bolt that require a 5mm allen wrench. The other is on the passenger side and is an M10 triple square, if I recall correctly. Not exactly sure about the size but it is definitely a triple square. I had to use a light and the video camera on my phone to find them. Once you get the heat shield out of the way there are 9 or 10 exhaust studs with 13mm nuts on them. They are located across the top of the manifold (easiest to get to) and along the bottom. I had to experiment with different extension lengths, and deep and shallow sockets to get them all off. Once off, there are two bar brackets across the bolts on the bottom that slide off of the studs. They are wedge shaped and help distribute the torque evenly across the bottom studs when tightening the nuts back up.
Thanks for your reply I just got the cylinder head off and its definitely not going back on the same way it came off lol. Good news for me is my pistons look okay!
that's great news!
Great work buddy. I just have a question and I would really appreciate you taking the time for some insight. Were there any symptoms before the chain broke? Any kind of warning or sign that'd be indicative of an immenint chain snap?
Thank you Ali. No, there were no warning signs. Performance was great. I changed oil every 10,000 miles per VW recommendations using LiquiMoly oil and VW oil filters. Even at those long oil change intervals, there was no oil loss in between oil changes. The car always rattled a little when I would start it up, but nothing ever got louder or longer, as far as engine noises, as the mileage ticked off. The car ran flawlessly all the way up to the day it failed at 120k miles. I didn't even know the chain tensioner was an issue until I started researching my symptoms on the internet after the failure. I've been working on cars since I was a teenager (35 years ago LOL) and I'm very familiar with changes in performance, sounds, etc when it comes to vehicles and my CC never hinted about anything that was wrong.
Bullshit you’ll have a check engine light then it’ll start to run rough misfire and then stop when valves hit
We are currently in the final stages of reassembling the 2.0 tsi motor and was wondering if you know what the torque spec is for the left handed nut on the variable cam shaft, was hoping to wrap this damn Project this weekend, only to Not find the specs needed for the TSI engine. Can you help a desperate DIYer ! And Thanks for your video`s
That's great news! I found this on alldatadiy.com
¤35 Nm
¤Has left hand threads.
¤Remove using the assembly tool (T10352).
Good luck!
Is the crankshaft position sensor under the timing chain cover?
Sorry I missed your comment.
What was your overall cost for parts? Also, same thing happened to my 2011 CC. There is an active class action lawsuit open for this SAME problem.
My overall cost for parts, machine shop labor and specialty tools was ~$1,500.00. I saved money by having the head rebuilt and my machine shop guy found me a good set of used OEM valves for $75.00. Otherwise, I would have been looking at around $1,750.00. I had some information on the lawsuit, but I misplaced it. The attorney told me that since I already had 120k mile on it that I would be low on the totem pole for damages.
rmgphotos | Thank you! Sorry, I just saw this comment. TH-cam still hasn't figured out how to let the video creators know when everyone leaves a comment and I have a bunch of videos out, so I can't look at each one of them every day. What did you end up doing? I hope you were treated well, if you elected to have someone do it for you.
MinerGate | Sorry about the late replay. TH-cam does a terrible job at informing me when someone leaves a comment. Google "Volkswagen TSI Timing Tensioner Lawsuit" and see what pops up. I'm not a member of any class actions so I can't say of some are more viable than others.
GREAT VID!
What Head bolt removal tool did you use??? All the ones i see on amazon I see reviews saying they don't fit correctly.. Please! i know its a polydrive bit (squared off torx)
I may be making a vid of my own on this engine since there is nothing besides your vids on here about it.. I unfortunately found out mine was a balancing shaft failure and jumped timing! need the head tool so i can send it off to a machine shop and then get it all put together.. first engine i went this deep into and hope putting it all back goes well lol.. thanks!
Thanks Matt! I used this one and also found it at my local O'Reilly... www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MXFH0TY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I had to grind down the turndown (chrome adapter) to get it to fit into a couple of the head bolt holes and the one that's the deepest I just used a punch and knocked the bit out of the adapter and used a good quality 10mm deep socket on the bit to get the deep head bolt torqued down.
Damn, that sucks. Check out this video. th-cam.com/video/zTEMl9q9iD0/w-d-xo.html
Same thing happened to this guy's engine. Yeah, I wished I had taken more video of the work that I did, but I was
focused on the job since it was the first time I had done this kind of work.
Cool video really helpful. I have a 2009 Audi with the same motor getting ready to put together, hope it goes as well as your did so I don't have to throw my torque wrench through my window.haha. Did you do the final video on this?
I did a part 3 after driving for a few hundred miles. I've got 139,000 miles on it now, which is 37,000 later, and it's still running great. I did have to replace the water pump last week, though. I had an engine code pop up because the thermostat wouldn't get the engine to temp in a quick enough time and tried to replace just the stat and the housing. Turns out that VW has had 4 more revisions for this water pump and trying to find the correct stat and housing was getting to be a challenge. I just put the $50 towards the $275 I spent at shopdap.com for a new pump, belt and balancing shaft bolt. I should have replaced it when I did the top-end rebuild.
I seen you had the motor mount off. Did you have to put a jack or jack stand under there to support the motor
Sure did! I had a floor jack under it. also VERY careful not to pull the front of the engine towards the passenger side fender well as the mounts can slip out of the rubber cushions and allow the motor and transmission to drop. USE EXTREME CAUTION!
a great video, I think every diy guy can relate to your elation when it started and ran so smooth. I have a few questions.
1. what were your costs all in for this repair including machine shop work ?
2. were you able to get enough slack out of the guides to move one tooth you were off on the timing ?
3. You did in fact establish route cause was the tensioner failure ?
4. Any after the fact issues ? related or unrelated
5. Anything you would do different if you were to do it again ?
Great job by the way most would not attempt this and simply replace the engine !!!
Thanks Clive! Yeah LOL I was pretty excited. It had been down for a few months and I was ready for it to be back on the road.
*1. what were our costs all in for this repair including machine shop work ?*
Right around $1,500 total. Most expensive was the bent valve kit from shopdap.com at around $900, then machine shop on the head $250 (included 16 used OEM VW valves for $75). Then tools for about $200 and fluids, plugs, accessory belt to round it out.
*2. were you able to get enough slack out of the guides to move one tooth you were off on the timing ?*
Yes, but it was difficult. The valve spring pressures tend to force the camshafts in different directions with the engine at #1 TDC. Additionally, the cam locks allow a tiny bit of slop and the combined rotational travel distance between the two cams is about one tooth and that was enough to let it slip.
*3. You did in fact establish route cause was the tensioner failure ?*
Absolutely no doubt about it. I still have the tensioner.
Classic failure of the teeth on the pill-sized ratchet button. Catastrophic failure ensued.
*4. Any after the fact issues ? related or unrelated* Not sure what the question is. After the failure or after the repair?
*5. Anything you would do different if you were to do it again ?* Yep! I would have replaced the water pump. Much easier to do with the intake out of the way. Probably could have lasted a little longer but the thermostat failed and VW had changed designs and mfr's and I couldn't find the correct stat and neck. Just replaced the whole thing. Aside from that, nothing else comes to mind.
Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!
great info thanks, I was just wondering if anything came after your repair. When I did my repair on my chain the very next day the crank position sensor failed .. maybe didn't like sitting for a month :)
Ahh! My stupid headliner let loose! Could have been from sitting day after day in the sun from March up until June-ish. But seriously, the night I got the car running and took it for a test drive I saw something in my rearview mirror and it was the cloth from my headliner hanging down. LOL Besides that... nothing I can recall.
okay update ... fixed my broken timing chain ( FSI engine actually ) timed cams , luckily did not bend valves... sure enough died on the road half an hour later ... I was so dejected, had it towed home .. wasn't it just a 50 dollar crank position sensor !!! I mean seriously , what are the odds ..
my buddy just had his tensioner die, I was thinking of buying the engine for 200 bucks to fix and sell for
Hey whats up man? I need help, i bought one and it had the same problem and i fixed all of them but it takes a lot to start idk what it could be and in your video you dont show what you moved in order to start it right up, is there anyway you can send me the little clip? I would really appreciate it.
Hey Ernesto, I had the ignition coils unplugged so I could crank the engine and build up oil pressure, since it had been sitting for so long and had drained some of the oil when I removed the head. All I did was plug the coils in and crank it and it started right up. Are all of your wiring harness plugs plugged back in?
Jt: that is some awesome shit!!! You missed your calling you do great work. I m still working on the floor pans on my 66 Elky and Saturday I went to look at a 68 thats in far better shape than my 66 so I purchased it and now trying to decide if I keep them both or flip the 68 because I think it could be a money maker. anyway enjoyed the video keep up the good work. Lee R
Thank you, Lee! I had a chance when I was 16 to start working at a transmission shop or do a/c work and I chose a/c. It's been a great field to be in and I've been able to be successful, by my definition anyway. ;-) I didn't choose cars because I love working on them and I thought that if I did it as a job I would loose my passion for it as a hobby. Being older, I realize that prolly wouldn't have happened but maybe when retire in 10 or 15 years I"ll get to be a mechanic. :-D AWESOME NEWS ON YOUR PURCHASE! I hope you can share some videos of your cars someday, that would be awesome to see. Good luck on the floor pans!
Damn, impressive. Looks intimidating as hell though
Thanks! Yeah, it was for me, for sure. Never torn into a twin cam 4 valve with timing chains before. Next I get to replace the rear main seal. Working up the courage for that one now. LOL Thanks for watchin!
Did you use the special tool for the crank pulley ?
Yes, I had to. I have a pretty strong IR impact wrench (old school) and it wouldn't budge. Also, there was zero compression on the engine to assist with back up so the engine would freewheel in both directions. I HATE buying specialty tools, but in this case it was less trouble and only ~$129 for the kit.
Thanks so much for the great videos! I will definitely be coming back for some reviews, as it looks like I'm going to be going through something similar very soon on my '09 GTI after a failure to start today. Intimidating process, but its always more satisfying to see something through yourself than to just write a check. Do you have an idea of the total cost of the project?
Dane, I thought I had already replied to this message, sorry about that.
Bundled Kit was $900.00 from www.shopdap.com. It came with all the guides, chains, tensioners, new timing chain cover, gaskets and seals
Had to buy the valve seals separately, founf the for $60, I think, online
Machine shop for head work $325.00 ( included $75.00 for reconditioned used valves. Otherwise expect to pay around $400 for new valves)
Camshaft/Crankshaft tool kit $159.00
Tristar/12 Point tool set (4 bits) $30.00
Plus another $50 for new belt, gasket sealer, assembly grease, etc. so it all came out to around $1,500.00
Greatly appreciated the videos, Just want to verify one thing for now. It seems you used ALLDATA for your reference information correct? Torque specs and such.
Glad they helped. Correct! The layout and structure of the website is kind of a pain in the ass and there are a few things in there that are missing, but 99% of the torque specs, torque sequences, OEM part numbers, repair instructions, etc. came from ALLDATADIY.
512kjt
Awesome. Going to get access tonight. Started mine today. I purchased the car already busted and mostly disassembled. Dealing with bit of a puzzle. Thanks again.
No problem! I spent hours looking through the website and reading about the different components that make up the valve train and timing components. Good luck!
I have a question, will the belt rotate all the pulleys if the motor is seized??
Nope, not at all. If the engine is seized, the crankshaft pulley will not move. Period.
I have same issue with my 2012 CC 2.0T Got it diagnosed by VW dealership. Result was some crack at the exaust piston valve. They ask 5k for repairs. Now i am convinced to do a DIY. Your help will be apprecited if u can share your experience with me. Please help. I cant afford the 5k, a car i bought 6 monts ag0
Oh man I’m sorry to hear that. I’ll help where and however I can.
@@512kjt recommend me where to buy a cylinder head
DIY level: GOD
LOL, thanks!!!! :-D
First let me say awesome video man! I have a 2009 vw cc and the top guide snapped into pieces. Thankfully it wasn't while i was driving. I parked it, and then it just didn't start again. I found 4 of the 5 pieces. I took the cover off to find the pieces. Now i need to take that other cover off that's held on with those T40 screws. Is it just held on with those screws or do I need something else to take it off? Doesn't seem to just slide off.
Thanks!! If you're talking about the lower cover, after you've removed the crankshaft pulley, you have to get under the cover with a screwdriver or wedge and pry it off.The adhesive they used is so strong, the cover is usually bent during removal. If you're talking about the top cover, the actuator for the cam timing valve has to be removed first.
finally got everything off! all the chains are off time. nothing else is broken or destroyed. looks like i just have to get everything back to time. is there any special tool i need to get everything back to time or is it just take it all the way apart and put it back together
You'll need a timing tool set which I bought off of amazon.com but their prices have gone up. This one shopdap.com/store/20t-tsi-timing-chain-special-tool-install-kit.html is the same and about $30 cheaper than the cheapest on amazon. If you've already got the front off, you have the specialty socket bits required for the triple squares. Nothing else I can think of right now, but it is critical that you get the timing synced exactly and that the lower timing sprocket doesn't spin on the crankshaft while you're trying to sync everything up.
Im sure you've seen the news now about VW settling the lawsuit, offering reimbursement and increasing the warranty. Unfortunately I think everyone that DIY'd repair will be out of luck..
did you buy the cam locking tool to do this?
Yes. Found one on Amazon.
Question.
What did the machine shop did to the head?
Vat clean, verify warpage with a straight edge, disassemble, remove bent valves, lap in new valves (used VW valves), reassemble, re-confirm surface with straight edge.
hey neighbor. Thinking about buying one of these with a busted timing, What your first suggestion, What I should expect??
Howdy! Be prepared to spend the money on a solid junkyard engine in the event the one is the car is trashed. I was able to get the top end rebuilt done and the tensioner upgrade with chain and guide replacements only because the bottom end was still solid and I knew I had kept it maintained for all of the time I had it. Check the oil dipstick for water. Crank the engine by hand if possible. If not bump it slowly to make sure it will turn. If it's already jumped time, the damage was done on the first revolution after it happened, so cranking it over a rotation or two isn't going to hurt it anymore than it already is. Also, check the rest of the car and the mileage. The resale value on these cars is TERRIBLE and even if you do get it running, be prepared for a low residual value because of all of the lumps VW has taken lately.