Very informative, great attention to detail. You did this pretty quick, even with filming and commentary. How many hours in total and what sort of cost is involved if you were to do this for someone walking in off the street?
Currently doing a timing chain job on a 2010 Passat CC. I ran into a weird issue (for me at least). I have put the engine at TDC with cylinder 1 in the up position and the crank Luella at the 4oclock (shown by the triangle mark and slit on pulley). I have rotated the engine several times but have not been able to line the cams as they should be. The closes I have come to the right position is both cams at the 1oclock position. I have measured the 65mm and 125mm overall and definitely not even close to that specification by VW. The vehicle presented a p0016 and vehicle has the old style tensioner and is also very easy to push in (sign it has failed as I understand it). Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!!!
I like how you did not mess with the chains or bend up the cover I knew there had to be a way the last two videos I’ve seen they did not do it like this I was wondering why they didn’t keep tension on that guide and swap tensioner real quick.
Perfectly detailed video! Thanks for posting! I'm getting a dull clacking sound for like 3 seconds on cold/first starts.. might even call it a "clocking" sound! Any thoughts on what that might be? 2.0 TFSI in a 2009 A3 8P with 200,000 kms
Hi above the tensioner at 11.50 of video you mention the number of teeth, and you said 4, what did you exactly mean as I was counting the teeth that were exposed amd there were more than 4. I didn't understand
I've noticed a few channels like Deutsche Auto Parts, Edge Motors, and NaptownTuner show an additional step after pulling the pin on the new style tensioner. They say you should squeeze the spring and and slide it back (towards the back of the car) to lock the plunger in place and prevent it from pressing back into the housing. Other channels like Humble Mechanic and A1 Auto don't do this. Does the spring prevent the plunger from moving backwards into the housing from it's default position or does it need to be resting against the housing? Please let me know, asap. Thanks.
Is a T10368 washer unnecessary to put in under the crank bolt to secure the gear after removing the crank pulley? You mention the importance of screwing the crank bolt back on immediately at 9:11. It was my understanding a T10368 washer needed to be put it place too.
Yeah it's what the manual states yes, however it's not necessary. It a plastic spacer to prevent idiots damaging the crank sprocket. Unless you have zero mechanical sympathy, it'll be fine without. Never used it and never caused any damage.
Getting ready/ researching to do this job myself. I've watched a ton of these tensioner DIY videos and I always learn at least one little thing to make it easier, and this video is no acceptation. Thanks! What is your take on chain stretch parameters? Mine is at -1.83º (fully warmed up) so I think I'm good (?). I've heard ±4º and I have also heard ±5º. How hard was it to keep that lower cover from bending and replacing the crank seal?
Take the lower cover off with a paint scraper. If you bend it, you'll likely have a leak. No need to bend it at all. I have another video replacing chain and tensioner on a mk6 gti golf and maybe show where i use the scraper there. Your value is fine, but your call on whether u replace just the tensioner and not need to adjust timing, or install the updated chain too while you're in there. Don't use an eBay kit. Genuine or febi/iwis chain or chain kit only.
@@FourRingsAuto Awesome! Yeah, I think if the degree value was ±3º≤ I would rally to just clear the whole assembly--was just interested in your thoughts about it. Oh, jeez, no--I could never buy the ebay/ amazon kits. Yes, OE (at minimum) if not OEM for the car. The crank seal slides in pretty easily? You don't need a press to do it?
@@joshuam7552 there is a special tool for the front crank seal that is uses the crank bolt to pull the seal into the timing case and do it in situ. However, you can use a small mallet hammer and gently tap it in.
@@FourRingsAuto Perfect! I'll definitely give that a go--as I bought a Corteco crank seal a few months ago to get free shipping on an order. I'll buy a lower cover just in case I bog it up. Thank you again!
Hi, Do you know the parts number? I have a 2.0 TFSI 2011 Audi A5, I was checking online and there are so many, with cover or without…I need with cover top and bottom. I would be grateful if you could reply me! Great video!
Do you have any tips on how to retract the new style tensioner. Got everything set and had the exhaust cam jump 1 tooth when I pulled the tensioner pin :(
My thought: It might be a good idea to take the upper timing cover off and and bring the whole engine into visual time before doing anything. That way you can see the camshafts' timing marks. When your finished recheck the cam marks to make sure it didn't jump time on you/ move/ etc. You're already in there and it's only 5 bolts. Better to be safe!
Hello, I was wondering how much this would cost to do in the A6 with the 3.2 FSI engine. Seeing as the chain is in the back of the engine, I could it imagine it getting quite costly. Thanks!
If you've never done anything with timing or timing belts i wouldn't recommend attempting it unless you are willing to risk it going wrong! Not a "noob" job for sure.
The most important thing u forgot was to squeeze the clip on the tensioner and move it back. Otherwise the chain will still go slack and boom there goes it motor !!!
By the way great video...Is this engine is the same as my 2009 audi a4 quattro? you can do this work without replacing the timing chain and you only replace the tensioner?
No, you have the old timing chain tensioner. Any timing chain tensioner that begins 06H is apparently at risk, and it's recommended to install the one beginning with 06K.
If you're doing this job on the ground with the front of the car on ramps (and then a jack stand put in place for the timing side of the car to remove that side's ramp) could a jack be put under the engine to hold it instead of using an engine bridge to support the engine before removing the engine mount?
You change whatever you feel is necessary for you. The chain doesn't stretch, it wears. All the rollers and links wear a small amount and add up to a lengthened chain - stretched is just a phrase or coined term. But like i said, you replace what you feel is necessary, as I'm merely a specialist sharing repair information for free on TH-cam.
@@FourRingsAuto How would you measure if chain is worn? Do you take some distance of x number of links and measure it? And what kind of measurment is then acceptable?
@@BlackMambaKO 2 easy ways without disassembly, as per the video, check the measured value block for intake phase position, or remove the plastic bung in the lower timing cover and count the amount of teeth sticking out of the tensioner at tdc. I have details in the video and in another video of this engine on my channel. Then if u remove the upper timing cover, you can measure the chain in reference to the cylinder head when again at tdc. Tensioner extension is going to tell the most, and easiest is measured value.
Yes you can reuse the lower cover but only as long as you don't bend it when you remove it. Use a paint scraper to cut the sealant so you don't bend it taking it off.
B8.5 should have the ea888 gen3 in most markets so should have the later style. If you have 2 vvt cam solenoids on the front of the timing cover, and a plastic oil filter with paper insert rather than a steel canister oil filter, then it's a gen 3.
Later models have the updated tensioner. Around 2013 onward I believe, but I'm sure someone here will know the changeover, I can't off the top of my head. We remove the rubber plugs in it timing cover and inspect if necessary or unsure, especially if the mvb for the intake phase position is -4° or more.
@@laurenmckinney37 I couldn't tell you. I have no recollection of the model years of the cars in these videos. The cars remain the same for a wide model year range. 2008 is the start of the B8 range, so the oldest of the models and will have the problematic tensioner if it hasn't already been replaced. Easy to check as shown in the video.
They don't make the torque wrenches from my understanding. They own a company that does! I believe its precision instruments but used to be CDI. Either way, I like the ridiculous torque wrenches haha.
Very informative, great attention to detail. You did this pretty quick, even with filming and commentary. How many hours in total and what sort of cost is involved if you were to do this for someone walking in off the street?
Currently doing a timing chain job on a 2010 Passat CC. I ran into a weird issue (for me at least). I have put the engine at TDC with cylinder 1 in the up position and the crank Luella at the 4oclock (shown by the triangle mark and slit on pulley). I have rotated the engine several times but have not been able to line the cams as they should be. The closes I have come to the right position is both cams at the 1oclock position. I have measured the 65mm and 125mm overall and definitely not even close to that specification by VW. The vehicle presented a p0016 and vehicle has the old style tensioner and is also very easy to push in (sign it has failed as I understand it). Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!!!
I like how you did not mess with the chains or bend up the cover I knew there had to be a way the last two videos I’ve seen they did not do it like this I was wondering why they didn’t keep tension on that guide and swap tensioner real quick.
Perfectly detailed video! Thanks for posting! I'm getting a dull clacking sound for like 3 seconds on cold/first starts.. might even call it a "clocking" sound! Any thoughts on what that might be? 2.0 TFSI in a 2009 A3 8P with 200,000 kms
Hi above the tensioner at 11.50 of video you mention the number of teeth, and you said 4, what did you exactly mean as I was counting the teeth that were exposed amd there were more than 4. I didn't understand
What's the system for a bad tensioner chain in a Audi tt 8j
I've noticed a few channels like Deutsche Auto Parts, Edge Motors, and NaptownTuner show an additional step after pulling the pin on the new style tensioner. They say you should squeeze the spring and and slide it back (towards the back of the car) to lock the plunger in place and prevent it from pressing back into the housing. Other channels like Humble Mechanic and A1 Auto don't do this. Does the spring prevent the plunger from moving backwards into the housing from it's default position or does it need to be resting against the housing? Please let me know, asap. Thanks.
Needs to be resting against the housing
For my curiosity please tell me how many kilometres / miles this engine had done at the time of the timing chain tensioner replacement? Thank you.
Briliant vid mate, thanks ever so much for taking the time to do this.
Is a T10368 washer unnecessary to put in under the crank bolt to secure the gear after removing the crank pulley? You mention the importance of screwing the crank bolt back on immediately at 9:11. It was my understanding a T10368 washer needed to be put it place too.
Yeah it's what the manual states yes, however it's not necessary. It a plastic spacer to prevent idiots damaging the crank sprocket. Unless you have zero mechanical sympathy, it'll be fine without. Never used it and never caused any damage.
Getting ready/ researching to do this job myself. I've watched a ton of these tensioner DIY videos and I always learn at least one little thing to make it easier, and this video is no acceptation. Thanks! What is your take on chain stretch parameters? Mine is at -1.83º (fully warmed up) so I think I'm good (?). I've heard ±4º and I have also heard ±5º. How hard was it to keep that lower cover from bending and replacing the crank seal?
Take the lower cover off with a paint scraper. If you bend it, you'll likely have a leak. No need to bend it at all. I have another video replacing chain and tensioner on a mk6 gti golf and maybe show where i use the scraper there. Your value is fine, but your call on whether u replace just the tensioner and not need to adjust timing, or install the updated chain too while you're in there. Don't use an eBay kit. Genuine or febi/iwis chain or chain kit only.
@@FourRingsAuto Awesome! Yeah, I think if the degree value was ±3º≤ I would rally to just clear the whole assembly--was just interested in your thoughts about it. Oh, jeez, no--I could never buy the ebay/ amazon kits. Yes, OE (at minimum) if not OEM for the car.
The crank seal slides in pretty easily? You don't need a press to do it?
@@FourRingsAuto And thanks for the quick reply! I'll watch that MK6 video now.
@@joshuam7552 there is a special tool for the front crank seal that is uses the crank bolt to pull the seal into the timing case and do it in situ. However, you can use a small mallet hammer and gently tap it in.
@@FourRingsAuto Perfect! I'll definitely give that a go--as I bought a Corteco crank seal a few months ago to get free shipping on an order. I'll buy a lower cover just in case I bog it up. Thank you again!
How much can cost me do this work on my VW CC 2011?
Hi, Do you know the parts number? I have a 2.0 TFSI 2011 Audi A5, I was checking online and there are so many, with cover or without…I need with cover top and bottom. I would be grateful if you could reply me! Great video!
how much would i be looking at for this pal ??
Do you have any tips on how to retract the new style tensioner. Got everything set and had the exhaust cam jump 1 tooth when I pulled the tensioner pin :(
Squeeze the spring clip together and the tensioner should push all the ways back in then. Use the locking tool that came with it.
How did you know it jumped? Did you have the valve cover off too, and saw it move there?
@@FourRingsAuto I saw on my new version of tensioner the spring clip is missing...
Thank you very much sir for the video😭😭
Hi @Four rings Auto is this procedure mostly the same for my 2011 Audi a4 Quattro? Thanks.
Yes if 2.0tfsi or 1.8tfsi
so can the dipstick be removed without touching the engine mounts? I would really not touch the engine mount if I don't have to.
Not on transverse engines.
@@FourRingsAuto ok thank you.
it's the same 2.0 TSI in the current Beetles. so I guess that would be a transverse engine.
It appears the new tensioners are improved, but newer chains have lost quality.
Great POV repair. Is it absolutely necessary to remove the upper timing cover for just the lower chain tensioner?
No the upper cover was only removed here as it was leaking.
@@FourRingsAuto thanks for the reply, as a new 2.0t I appreciate the content.
My thought: It might be a good idea to take the upper timing cover off and and bring the whole engine into visual time before doing anything. That way you can see the camshafts' timing marks. When your finished recheck the cam marks to make sure it didn't jump time on you/ move/ etc. You're already in there and it's only 5 bolts. Better to be safe!
What's the reason to change the tensioner.do they just go or fail alot..
They fail and then the engine can skip timing and do a lot of damage
Hello,
I was wondering how much this would cost to do in the A6 with the 3.2 FSI engine. Seeing as the chain is in the back of the engine, I could it imagine it getting quite costly.
Thanks!
Probably 25 to 30 hours labour. Depends if you're doing chains as well or just tensioners.
How easy is this easy to do for i say a noob and and can u link us the the uprated tensioner and seals gaskets and tools
If you've never done anything with timing or timing belts i wouldn't recommend attempting it unless you are willing to risk it going wrong! Not a "noob" job for sure.
The most important thing u forgot was to squeeze the clip on the tensioner and move it back. Otherwise the chain will still go slack and boom there goes it motor !!!
By the way great video...Is this engine is the same as my 2009 audi a4 quattro? you can do this work without replacing the timing chain and you only replace the tensioner?
1.8 and 2.0tfsi yes. You can replace just the tensioner, but I'd highly recommend replacing the chain at the same time.
Hey i have a 1.8 TSI from late 2011 which uses the same timing chain tensioner, it has the 06H 106 467 AB is this generation good?
No, you have the old timing chain tensioner. Any timing chain tensioner that begins 06H is apparently at risk, and it's recommended to install the one beginning with 06K.
If you're doing this job on the ground with the front of the car on ramps (and then a jack stand put in place for the timing side of the car to remove that side's ramp) could a jack be put under the engine to hold it instead of using an engine bridge to support the engine before removing the engine mount?
Yes
Does chain really stretch? I think the only things to change is tensioners and guides?
You change whatever you feel is necessary for you. The chain doesn't stretch, it wears. All the rollers and links wear a small amount and add up to a lengthened chain - stretched is just a phrase or coined term. But like i said, you replace what you feel is necessary, as I'm merely a specialist sharing repair information for free on TH-cam.
@@FourRingsAuto How would you measure if chain is worn? Do you take some distance of x number of links and measure it? And what kind of measurment is then acceptable?
@@BlackMambaKO 2 easy ways without disassembly, as per the video, check the measured value block for intake phase position, or remove the plastic bung in the lower timing cover and count the amount of teeth sticking out of the tensioner at tdc. I have details in the video and in another video of this engine on my channel. Then if u remove the upper timing cover, you can measure the chain in reference to the cylinder head when again at tdc. Tensioner extension is going to tell the most, and easiest is measured value.
@@FourRingsAuto could you give me link for the video?
And what should value be for intake?
@@BlackMambaKO th-cam.com/video/lqxRfSukLBk/w-d-xo.html
Good job mate. Did you re-use the timing chain cover?
Yes you can reuse the lower cover but only as long as you don't bend it when you remove it. Use a paint scraper to cut the sealant so you don't bend it taking it off.
@@FourRingsAuto Thanks for the reply. Cheers.
@@FourRingsAuto. Did you have to reseal the cover or do you buy a gasket?
Do I need to drain oil to check tensioner?
No. Look through the inspection hole in the timing cover.
@@FourRingsAuto thank you!
did they update to the newer tensioner on the 2013 a4 b8.5?
B8.5 should have the ea888 gen3 in most markets so should have the later style. If you have 2 vvt cam solenoids on the front of the timing cover, and a plastic oil filter with paper insert rather than a steel canister oil filter, then it's a gen 3.
@@FourRingsAuto thankyou
What year is this car? Does a different year matter what the tensioner looks like?
Later models have the updated tensioner. Around 2013 onward I believe, but I'm sure someone here will know the changeover, I can't off the top of my head. We remove the rubber plugs in it timing cover and inspect if necessary or unsure, especially if the mvb for the intake phase position is -4° or more.
@@FourRingsAuto was this car an 2008?
@@laurenmckinney37 I couldn't tell you. I have no recollection of the model years of the cars in these videos. The cars remain the same for a wide model year range. 2008 is the start of the B8 range, so the oldest of the models and will have the problematic tensioner if it hasn't already been replaced. Easy to check as shown in the video.
Is this Gen 1 /2 /3 motor type?
Gen 1 and 2. Later versions had the updated tensioner.
Beacause i buy one wv 2016 1,8tsi 132kw, 180 hp (CJSA motor version) 25k km and i hope im not gona have this issues 😅🤔
What ridiculous torque wrenches 😂
What's ridiculous about them?
I think hes having a dig at snap on lol
They don't make the torque wrenches from my understanding. They own a company that does! I believe its precision instruments but used to be CDI. Either way, I like the ridiculous torque wrenches haha.
Dw i got the exact torque wrench haha. Its pretty dear here in australia. But definetly worth it haha
@@hybridsouls yep I'm in Australia too, even though the pom accent haha. Yep expensive but worth it!