Thanks for making this video. I have basic automotive knowledge and was able to complete this job instead of junking the car like the wife insisted on 😂. Just started it today and it sounds great. Couldn’t have done it without this detailed video. Much appreciated!
Brilliant vid dude, thanks for doing this in depth tutorial. I've just replaced the chain and tensioner and in doing so realised the gauze from the cam bridge was missing. I took the cam covers off to search for it. As I removed the cover the cams lifted and I shit a brick as Ive never done this kind of repair. i'm confident I can put it all back together now thanks to you. It seriously is so helpful as I am in a remote place 35 miles from the nearest garage you got me out the shit dude. Cheers and blessings from a not so stressed Englishman living in Lithuania.
@@motorcarnut I'm new to the vw family had nothing but problems since purchasing 2013 cc 2.0 in your professional opinion should I consider balance shaft delete kit ?
Thank you so much! I just completed this exact repair on a 2010 Tiguan. Couldn't have done it without this video and your guidance. Cost me about $1100 after buying tools, timing chain replacement kit, water pump, injectors, and machine shop head rebuild ($300). Couple things that were difficult: -Getting the exhaust manifold off and on, needed to use ratchet strap and pull the engine backward and jack it up fairly high to get the exhaust manifold on and off - it kept binding on the studs until i got a good angle. -Still need to bend the turbo bracket back cause the bolt holes don't line up. Tbc -The turbo elbow won't come out completely and the small thin gasket is hard to get back in, put a tiny bit of rtv on it so it would stick into the indention -Wasn't able to get the engine mount off without jacking the engine up pretty high to clear the passenger side frame rail. Needed a very low profile m12 to torque them properly as there wasn't enough room for a torque wrench and regular m12 -one intake and one vacuum pump bolt stripped threads in the head, fortunately i was about to get m6 10mm longer than the required and that sorted me out. Used a couple washers for the vacuum pump bolt m6x90 -wasn't able to get the intake manifold off without removing the throttle body and needed to use wobble extensions from the bottom to put it back on after reinstalling. -since i replaced the injectors, i needed to put them into the head first because of the notc injector notch, lubed the back oring and then put the intake manifold back on
Thank you and glad you completed the job yourself! Yes I understand the things you found difficult comes with experience but this extra information will help others if they find it difficult as well. Appreciate you taking the time to post this.
@@motorcarnut after replacing injectors, do I need to get those coded in vcds or other scan tool? I see mixed responses out there. I have all the repair manuals from erwin but I'm having issues finding any information.l
For aligning the head, since the VW head bolts are tty, and have to be replaced, cut the heads off and cut a slot in them. Then put them in the corners a few threads deep and use as alignment. Once you put 4 in the middle, use a thin regular screwdriver to back the corners out and put the new bolts in. Then there are no alignment issues and no sliding the head around on the new head gasket. .
Hi again, I was just wondering if you have any tips for getting the exhaust manifold to drop back into the channel when reinstalling it back onto the cylinder head? I have tried tapping it with a mallet as you suggested at 1:14:25 and it just won’t go into the track. I think it is hitting the top studs which is stopping it from sliding further in, do I need to tilt it back more something? Any tips would be greatly appreciated😅
@@motorcarnut doesn’t look like you did it in this video looks like old guides and chain with just a new tensioner. Why is the tensioner so far out of its a new chain.?
@georgehawksley2287 sometimes I make the videos on old engines just to show how it’s done, not necessarily I’m working on a customer’s car. That’s why.
I replaced the timing chain tensioner on my 2010 Audi a3 one week after I bought it with 100k miles on it. The car now has 140k and runs very smoothly. I also change the oil at least twice a year. Thank you for the video.!
Just curious.. It looks like you released and removed the front engine motor mount. It also looks like you did not support the engine. Am I seeing this right that the engine holds sufficiently that way? Just curious as I am in the middle of one of these and I am always juggling to support the engine.
Great video I’m so close to done but I can’t for the life of me get the harmonic balancer bolt to come back off so I can put the actual harmonic balancer back on - the little white plastic ring that kept the timing all in place is stuck on too tightly I think, so instead of turning the bolt I’m just turning the crank and the whole timing chain all around. Any advice anyone???? Ty!
@@motorcarnut thank you for the reply! I got it all back together and added oil and turned it on just to the fan a few times and everything like you said. At first it was fine although it had a little trouble starting (the battery has been out and it’s been sitting for 3 weeks while I work on this in my spare time) but then I seemed good. I added more coolant (I’d done a flush because my head gasket was blown) and turned on the car with heat to get to operating temp so it would suck the coolant in. But then I got a strong gas smell so I turned it off and sure enough there’s a big gas leak but I can’t figure out exactly where it’s coming from. Maybe the fuel injectors or right underneath the intake manifold? It’s definitely not the HPFP or the line in or out of it. Any ideas what I can check or how to figure out what exactly is leaking?
Any trick to getting the exhaust manifold off? Got the bolts off and it slides up but won't clear the lip. Drop the engine down a bit on the jack? Raise it? UPDATE: had pull the engine toward the front of the car and it came right out (have the motor mount off already)
@@Q0ldMan If its not moving at all, I would suspect you didn't get all the exhaust manifold bolts out. For me, it would slide upward about 3/4" but I had a hard time getting it over the lip that holds the manifold
@@Q0ldMan oh, there's a bracket that goes down from the manifold that you need to unbolt. Two bolts I think and as far as the video says, you need to bend it in order to allow the manifold to tilt enough to come off
@@Q0ldMan I think I bent it out about 1.5-2 inches, I can't recall how I went about doing it either. Getting it off and on was kinda a pain, so be patient (or disconnect the exhaust I guess). When I lifted it, it would bind on the exhaust bolts. I used a combination of jacking the engine up and down and a rachet strap to pull the engine forward or backwards. Tbh I can't remember which ended up working cause I tried it so many times. Maybe @motorcarnut can shed some light
Man what a great video! I have a Skoda Octavia 1.8 TSI (engine code CDAA) and I have a cylinder 1 misfire. Very rough idle, but when the RPMs get above 2500, the engine drives just fine and the flashing check engine light disappears. I have done a compression test which showed that cylinder 1 had low compression. Unfortunatly I never did a leakdown test and instead just started dismantlig alot of stuff. Now I am at the point where the valve/cam cover is off, and I see no unusual stuff at cylinder one. Do you have any tips?
@ I dont remember exact digits, but Cyl 1 was 1/10 (10%) of what the others cylinder were. I will definetly do that, but I was wondering since you probably have encountered similar problems to mine. And lets say it is a burnt valve, is there any way to remove the cylinder head without messing with the timing chain by the crank? Is it possible to only remove it from the camshafts? Thank you for the quick reply, really appreciate it!
Hi 20 mins in and your already talking about removing the timing cover. Is it possible to remove the head without doing this? Ie de tension the tensioner and slip off the chain from up top and leave in situ? Thanks.
Unfortunately not, Has to be done the proper way or you will never get the car to run right. Plus its a great idea to replace the timing chain tensioner while you're there because if it's an old one it will fail and destroy your engine, I have many videos you should check out on that as well.
You can get one here: www.amazon.com/BELEY-T10355-Crankshaft-Holding-Vibration/dp/B07WVXGFVS/ref=asc_df_B07WVXGFVS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4368076540821294606&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004531&hvtargid=pla-2281435176898&psc=1&mcid=d5148a16ab10363c9186bf72b7a319f9&hvocijid=4368076540821294606-B07WVXGFVS-&hvexpln=73
Great Video! Got a 2009 VW CC (fifth Vin Digit is a "L") with a TSI CCTA engine with high miles and had major failure of the timing chain & tensioner. Looking to purchase a used ccta engine to swap into it. I see a lot of Tiguans for sale up to 2018. I'm looking for a newer/newest possible used engine that is compatible....What is the latest year CCTA engine swap that I can I purchase without total chaos and ease?
Thanks again for the info and such quick response! I was on that site when I commented (I have been using it for years). I found it hard to believe that it goes to 2018 CCTA 2.0.. Can you please help with recommending trusted parts suppliers so I might possibly help credit you for your time and expertise? Obviously a new timing belt kit should be installed; are there any other items that i should replace prior to install to reduce possible future problems? Replace things like the rear main seal, water pump, sensors etc. to have extra peace of mind? Anything that should be avoided? Second opinions are always better than second guessing!!! Much appreciated
I also just checked that site as well. Does go up to 2018, but not sure if intake manifolds would be different or not. They would be able to tell you when you buy it. You can just swap yours over if different. I would replace timing chain tensioner, water pump rear and front main seals. I can't recommend anyone because I don't trust none of them. I would make sure I get a warranty and if you are installing it yourself make sure their warranty includes private owners installing the engine too. Also I would find one with the highest year and lowest mileage. I don' t know your budget but that's what I would do. I mean I would rebuild the engine that's in the car now with all new parts but that's just me.
I don’t have the special tool to remove the harmonic balancer. Would it be fine if I used an impact wrench to break it loose. Remove slowly and use a bushing a some sort to put back in with the bolt to keep everything in place?
I’m at the timing part. I did every step but the can end up about half a tooth off every time. I’ve removed and installed 4 times and same result every time
this is an amazing video, my cc also had the dreaded timing failure. its funny becuase someone warned me about it and told me to replace the tensioner, and i procrastinated too long lol and sure enough, it went bad. thanks for the detailed video, it helps a lot!
Thank you! Sorry you have to go through this. You most definitely bent all the intake valves, the exhaust valves are probably fine as well as the cylinder head and the pistons.
@@motorcarnut I started taking it apart and when I took the timing cover off, the top chain guide was missing and I found pieces of it, so my tensioner might be good (still replacing anyways) but now I'm gonna replace all the guides as well
Incredible video! First time watching it and I find it incredibly informative. I’m currently dealing with a blown head gasket in my 2013 Tiguan and this is the most helpful video I’ve found so far. Question: do I need to take off the timing assembly if I just want to replace the head gasket? Car has 120,xxx miles and it just needs to survive this winter.
Thank you really appreciated the comment! Yes you do have to take the primary timing chain assembly off to do the head gasket be not the balance shaft chain. It's all explained in the video, And search my channel for "VW hidden part " video it you have that bracket on yours or manifold won't come off.
Thanks for the video, attempting this repair after learning I have 8 bent intake valves. What sealants do you recommend for the valve cover, lower timing cover, and vacuum pump seals? OEM or have you found out aftermarket work better and last longer?
Thanks for this video! Recently got a 2010 VW passat wagon, about 156k miles on it, drove for 5-6 days and the timing system caputted on me. It had misfires so tried changing the spark plugs and coils, aided for a bit, then coming home one day the car wouldn't accelerate and started shaking. Luckily I was only going 35-40 mph when it happened so things aren't likely torn up entirely in the engine. Trying to fix this sucker up but can't find a good manual at a reasonable price, so this video helped a lot!
Hi there, thank you so much for this video, the manual I bought wasn’t helping. I was wondering what I should do if the 6mm hex plug on the exhaust manifold heat shield 36:44 starts to strip? Should I use a bigger size torx and try to hammer it in?
I'm back 9 months later argh!!! It seems the dreaded piston rings have caught up with me. I am quietly confident I could replace them after watching your videos and others. In your opinion would you remove the front of the car to completely remove the engine and do a complete tear down inc balance shaft removal/check , or would you leave the engine in and drop the rods pistons out the bottom and just replace them and restore the head? Cheers.
Hey sorry to hear you're having problems again. I'm actually making a video as we speak on removing the engine from the top. Will be done soon. You can't access the pistons from bottom unfortunately, I explain it here: th-cam.com/video/RLtI10NOr9g/w-d-xo.html
@@motorcarnut Hey brilliant thanks ever so much. I just checked the link/vid very helpful again. To be honest I think ill pull the engine. The last time I replaced the cam chain with your step by step vid and discovered the screen missing from the cam bridge. I kinda knew I was on borrowed time so now I want to go the whole way and even pull the balance shafts to check the screens on those. Thanks again dude I ll wait for your vid. I just hope the weather's not too brutal, last year it was mostly 7 below in the garage ffs.
@@motorcarnut Feedback is the least I can do I wish all viewers would do it and hit the thumbs up as it boosts ya channel. I had a heater on last year for 5 hours and managed a 6 below lol, gonna build a rocket stove in there before I start this year. Thanks again dude.
Thanks for the video! Which screws besides the head bolts did you renew? VW noticed a lot of screws as single use in their work instruction, for example all screws of the metal timing chain cover, all torx30 of the camshaft frame and so on...
Question and sorry if it’s a bad one. If I have a leak on my vacuum pump then I cannot just take it off like you did in the video and replace the gasket for it and torque it with gasket seal? Do I have to get a new engine or do I have to replace the whole thing? I found this video so I could work on my MK 2 TT because I noticed an oil leak and I wanted to see if a head gasket would fix the problem plus just doing maintenance as there’s nothing wrong with the car but just that leak. Thank you for the video as well!
You can just remove the vacuum pump and clean the old gasket and surfaces and reinstall but don’t put too much gasket maker or you can clog the oil ports.
@@motorcarnut thank you, will be doing this and I’ll give an update and hopefully I don’t have to do any timing chains but I will have to do my belt soon as im nearing 100k miles
Great video with great detail! Now i have a mk6 gti with a bad piston ring which is allowing boost to get past the piston and into the oil pan causing it to leak. Will i need to remove my entire engine to take out the piston or can I just pull the head and oil pan?
@@motorcarnut i have officially completely a cylinder head install with the help of your video. I have rotated the engine several times and have confirmed time. Now, I have to install intake manifold and injectors.
@@motorcarnut I am almost done. Im at the point where I have to push the turbo manifold back into its spot. I’m not able to get it into its “cubby” area or little cut away area… I’m able to push it towards the head but it doesn’t fall into place like you mention. Any suggestions?
Good question, you only take out the top exhaust manifold nuts as the bottom is just slipped into a wedge groove so when you tighten the top nuts it puts pressure on the bottom and creates the seal. Also you have to take off the brace in the back of the turbo to slide the manifold up, then out.
So I'm doing this on my wife's car and the secondary tensioner was the one that failed and jumped. Can I just retime it and replace the chain/tensioner and be good?
The secondary tensioner is for the balance shaft so yes you should be good. I never had one of those fail. Make sure primary didn’t jump because it will bent the valves.
@Motorcarnut it did that's why I'm doing it broke all intake rockers and bent all intake valves. Exhaust is untouched. But main tensioner had so much tension I couldn't move it like you did but I could do that on the secondary. Thanks for the reply
@mtsanchez27 well the FSI is a belt driven engine the TSI is chain driven. So right there they are very different and sensors are not the same, water pump is different, block etc.
I have my car running but for some reason it keeps overheating? No heat inside either. I thought new water pump/thermostat so I replaced with the original but no help, still can't seem to get flow. Belt is good and turning? Tried everything to vent and fans run but just idling it goes over 205 and no heat and when I took it for a drive it still got hot withing one mile? Amy help is appreciated. Thanks Tim
Did you replace the overflow cap? How’s the radiator? If both are good you can have a blown head gasket. The no heat is a sign of air in the system caused by either an air pocket or pistons pumping up the system.
@@motorcarnut I did not replace it, I bought the car 3 years ago with the head off and just got to rebuilding. I know I have no flow through the radiator lines are cold, no flow back to reservoir, no heat, I had put on a new waterpump but went back to the old one but no different. I am going to drain and inspect the lines to the radiator and flow some water through the radiator? Been sitting open possible he stuffed a rag or something in there? Should know more later. Thanks
Hey im stuck at the exhaust manifold i bent the lower bracket off the motor and removed the top 4 bolts on the manifold but i cant get the manifold to move out of the slot any advice car is a Volkswagen CC
Yes, lift manifold up off the slots evenly on both sides then get I crowbar and put it in between the manifold in the middle and pop it out. It’s tight but comes out.
Thanks for the detailed instructions and video. Do I have to take off the cam cover to remove the head ? eg can i access all the head bolts through the cam cover ?
Really hoping you can lead me in the right direction here. I've been working on my car for a while now same tsi engine as in the video. Recently I got a P0304 Code with a bunch of white smoke coming out of the engine bay as well as exhaust with a rough idle. Took the coil pack and spark plug out of cylinder 4 and saw that there was coolant below sadly. Could this be from a bad gasket on the intake manifold or do you think the head gasket is blown or a crack in the block? The only code popping up is from cylinder 4 so that's why I'm questioning it. Really hope you can get back to me with some sort of information, thank you!
12:53 - "I took the inspection plug out. I have a video on this also." What video? You've got a lot of videos! Also I greatly appreciate it; thank you!
@@motorcarnut Well I've got a 2011 GTI and the timing chain got off and the valves got busted, so I'm trying to pull the heads off to take it to a machine shop. Then I guess I have to put it back together... Anyway, I wanted to pull out the inspection plug and maybe see what I can learn, because I have to get familiar with all this stuff to keep this car running forever. Your videos are amazing and I appreciate it so much, thanks again!
great job and details. but the timing chain needed to be changed preferably along with the guides its stretched, the tensioner should only show 2-3 tooth out. that's definitely stretched.
Thank you! This engine was a demonstration, but you are correct, always good to replace the timing chain and guides too while your'e there, do the job once, do it right!
Hi, great video I’ve used this as my main resource to fix my scirocco. I’m currently rushing to get it all done before uni!! This vid has saved me from a fiat panda haha thanks
Thank you! Well I have all the tools and lift and do hundreds of these. To take it off should be a couple hours for you same when installing it. If you have bent valves that’s extra time as well.
Hey im having the same issue i did coil pack, spark plugs, intake manifold and still nothing. I did a compression test and all cylinders are at 125 except for the third cylinder i have no compression.... do you have a shop im in queens
@@motorcarnut when you mentioned taking off the turbo bracket at the bottom (held my the two M10s) you day to pry it away from the block with a pry bar. Do you have to actually see the becket bend away from the block? Or just pry it so loosen it up a bit?
@ivanvega2821 Good question. The reason why is when you remove the exhaust manifold you have tilt it back and up to get it off the lip on the cylinder head.
Thank you! Let me know if you have a problem and don't forget to watch my video on the hidden bracket on intake manifold I forgot to mention in this video.
@@motorcarnut Will do. Thank you! I'll also capture and post a video on this. You are amazing. BTW, just watched the video on the hidden bracket! Thank you very much.
@@motorcarnut Quick question. I'm almost done with the disassembly. Have the Crank pulley removed and secured the timing crankshaft sprocket with plastic spacer and crank bolt. The crank pulley only moved 1/2 turn in either direction. Is it due to the pistons hitting the intake valves? Also, when the tensioner failed, and I tried to start a few times, heard the knocks (pistons hitting valves) and then only heard the starter motor running, but no crank. What's the likelihood of a broken tooth(s) on the flywheel or failed starter solenoid (from your experience). I'm going to remove the starter and find out.
@SivaFolsom yes you’re hitting the valves. I don’t think it’s the flywheel, hopefully just hit the valves and didn’t seize the crankshaft which would be rare.
Hey friend! It’s me AGAIN! So I’m having a strange issue with my 2009 Tiguan after the head install. So everything seems to work perfectly fine but for some off reason. It keeps destroying the oil pressure valve (the cylinder thing inside the intake valve that’s controlled by the magnet). I have installed 2 used OEM from the junk yard and it keeps ruining them. This 3rd time I ordered one by autozone and it was brand new from Dorman manufacture. It looked like pretty good quality but it also got destroyed. It seems like the oil pressure valve keeps building to much pressure or something and getting destroyed. Any suggestions are always appreciated!
Ok, did you replace the cam bridge? It has an oil control ball with that filter screen that keeps ripping? This will cause that problem, however the used ones will fail as well and the doorman one are not good quality. A new OEM one is the way to go. It’s probably misfiring and long crank time when it fails right?
@@motorcarnut I didn’t replace the cam bridge, I did find the ripped screen on the cylinder head thankfully. I ended up taking off the round cap off the cam bridge as you mentioned on your video. I just installed another Dorman VVT valve. Hopefully this one will last longer than a day… it just seems like a strange issue. If it destroys it again. Going to take off the upper time cover and replace the cam bridge abs VVT oil valve as well. To add to the issues. The Tiguan is also leaking rain water from the roof I guess. Went to the car wash and my driver side floor was soaked 😆 never a dull moment with this thing.
@@motorcarnut correct, it misfired and sounds like a tractor. Still drives but it sounds awful. Going to take off cam bridge and inspect it. Anything specific to look for when I have the cam bridge off? Also, I know that VW started to make the cam bridges a little different. Will the newer revised part fit on the gen 1 EA888 motor??
@@motorcarnut well, the cam bridge ball and spring are all broken. I found the spring but the ball is no where to be found. I’m afraid I’m going to have to pull the lower time cover and maybe the oil pan to search… and destroy. 😂
Hi, I've subscribed, amazing video... I'm in the UK, my head gasket has gone in my Audi a3 1.8t tfsi 2008 Cabriolet and watching your video I want to fix it myself... The tools I need, would it be ideal to get, Timing Chain kit or individual Timing Chain parts... I will be getting a full gasket set though... Plus all the tools I need but not if they come with the Timing Chain Kit... Also can I use this video to do my car, engine looks the same almost, or could you do a video on a Audi a3 1.8t tfsi 2008... Your help would be much appreciated... Keep up the amazing video's...
Thank you very much for the comment. You can use this video for the 1.8 as well.It's a little different as far as accessories and the engine is vertical in the car. Now are you replacing valves too from a failed timing chain tensioner? Because you will need the valves as well. The timing chain kit will include both chains all guides and both tensioners, however you don't have to touch the secondary chain or tensioner if they are ok because they rarely ever fail unless you want to. Timing chain kit if you are doing both chains get the full kit if not get just the main guide rails and tensioner on ebay or amazon same the the full gasket set. Tool kit: www.amazon.com/DPTOOL-Engine-Timing-T10352-T40196/dp/B07SPW3G28/ref=asc_df_B07SPW3G28/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343362361884&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15193194066396466452&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004584&hvtargid=pla-784006645356&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=70591845793&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343362361884&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15193194066396466452&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004584&hvtargid=pla-784006645356
@@motorcarnut o wow, no thank you for the quick response... I'll be rebuilding, so everything's literally going to be new... If I have ant more questions is ok to message you...? Once again thank you so much... ❤️
@@motorcarnut thx bro .may be i will do that in few days.i had a timing failure while crancking my engine this morning (the engine didn't even start) and the piston hit the valve .do you think that can bent a valve ?
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I am on with a Skoda Octavia, in the UK, which has the same engine. I don't think you have the Skoda models over the pond. Have you ever had issues not changing the injector seals?.
Thank you!, Every now and then I see a Skoda. And you don't have to replace them if their not damaged. Just clean them and put some oil on the seals and you'll be fine.
@@motorcarnut Thank you for your speedy reply. I will give the injector seals a go. I have changed them in the past and they did not feel any different to the used ones. Keep up the good work. And thanks again form the UK
are you for real, that little mark on the metal plate, wow.... when it should be a visible indented stamp for easy timing alignment. Thank you for the video!
How did you connect the injectors to their respective connectors with intake fitted? Is is not best to fit injectors into head first and line up fuel rail when replacing intake? Do you need new seals on injectors as recommended by others? Great video, especially the turbo removal from head, saves a lot of grief.
Greetings good Sir. I’m coming back to report that the chain job you helped me with went perfect! Now I’m having a different issue 😅 I just turned on the car this morning and I decided to unhook the intake manifold hose that goes to the PCV valve (car has been running rough at idle and stalling out with P0300 and P1250) . At the manifold hole, I put my thumb and told my buddy to turn in the car. The vehicle started and idled 200% better. I than decided to remove the PCV system so I could suck and blow inside of it to see if the PCV valve was faulty. I was able to suck and was not able to blow in, which my understanding this means it's a good PCV system. Why was the car running fine when u plugged the intake manifold hole with my thumb
Glad to hear that and thanks for the update!. I think the PCV valve is bad. There is a round disk on top of the PCV valve and to the right there is a small hole, with the engine running out your finger on hole and see if you feel vacuum? If you do it’s bad.
@@motorcarnut I don’t feel vacuum. I unplugged the hose going to the PCV valve at the engine side (not the intake manifold side) and the car just stalled and felt no vacuum. The car runs perfectly fine when I plug the I take manifold hole and it has some serious vacuum. It gave me a hickie on my thumb 😂 Another thing that I found that’s strange. When the car is in the ON position, u her a weird clicking noise coming from the top of the HPFP. I unplug the connector that’s on top of it and the clicking goes away. I’m not sure if that’s normal or not.
@ivanvega2821 I’m talking about leaving all hoses connected to PCV while engine is running and feel for vacuum from that small hole on the side of the round disk. The other noises you’re hearing is normal
@@motorcarnut I just tried. No vacuum at that little hole in the circular area. The vehicle runs ok at fold start but when it settles down, it just stalls and misfires like crazy 😩 I ordered a PCV valve from Amazon earlier today for $68 just to see if that’s the issue. I know it won’t be quality part but at least I’ll be able to diagnose if that’s my issue. Shotgunning parts 😂
the gasket maker was put on poorly, it's best to leave a thin line following the channels and let the mating of the two surfaces spread, it's the sealant is made to be safe on the oil system if it pours over.
Great. I don’t do these videos for speed, but for people to understand as simple as I can make them, so they get the confidence to tackle it themselves and save a lot of money doing right themselves.
@@motorcarnut gotcha yea, I have a similar system to doing them but have to do them with speed so I take things out in chunks, like the air filter for example I just undo the connector, move the clamp and remove the t30 then pull them entire thing out in one
Mejor imposible hermano, voy a meterle mano, tengo que hacerle eso mismo a mi carro, me lo han trasteado en un taller supuestamente profesional y lo que hicieron fue devolvermelo mas malo que como estaba. Con este video lo voy a hacer yo mismo. Saludos!!!
You wouldnt want to stop by and pull my engine out for me would ya. I was told it has no compression by my mechanic who also went on to say he hates working on vw. Its been sitting in my lot for 2 years. Id love to get it running again. At this point id rather yank it out and put another in
I have a timing chain kit and special tool kit for it. What other parts would I need. Also, how long would you say something like this takes for an average DIYer. I have done misc repairs before, injectors, head gaskets, exhaust manifolds, etc… but nothing this in depth.
all that work to fix up the cylinder head but you're reusing the old chain and guides? it's the old style of chain which is susceptible to stretch (which is probably why the original tensioner failed as it had to overextend far). The new revised style of chain has the links arranged differently and is meant to last longer.
Gracias Mr MOTORCARN. Voy a ajustar un motor igual con tu video ya me di una buena idea de como lo voy hacer saludos de cdmx ciudad de mexico ha le va su buen like gracias
I love the video and it is very informative. But please for god sakes change those gloves hahaha. they are not helping by 30 minutes into the video hahaha
lol , Thank you very much appreciated! So funny, I didn’t realise this until you pointed it out. Was concentrated on what I was doing, they weren’t even gloves anymore
No they weren’t lol but I have worn gloves till they fell off so I know how it is haha thanks for the video! I will definitely be watching more of your content in the future!
At first I thought this video had millions of views because it's awesome, thank you very much.
Thank you, I appreciate it!
@@motorcarnut ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤😂🎉❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Wow, much love as well!!!
Thanks for making this video. I have basic automotive knowledge and was able to complete this job instead of junking the car like the wife insisted on 😂. Just started it today and it sounds great. Couldn’t have done it without this detailed video. Much appreciated!
Wow, that’s awesome, thank you for such a nice comment, you made my day!
Shane, how long did it take you?
@@torreycoates7584the shop ltlho pn
Brilliant vid dude, thanks for doing this in depth tutorial. I've just replaced the chain and tensioner and in doing so realised the gauze from the cam bridge was missing. I took the cam covers off to search for it. As I removed the cover the cams lifted and I shit a brick as Ive never done this kind of repair. i'm confident I can put it all back together now thanks to you. It seriously is so helpful as I am in a remote place 35 miles from the nearest garage you got me out the shit dude. Cheers and blessings from a not so stressed Englishman living in Lithuania.
Hey, no problem and good luck!!!
Here's a person that cares and is genuine u r much appreciated thank you
Thank you! I appreciate the comment.
@@motorcarnut I'm new to the vw family had nothing but problems since purchasing 2013 cc 2.0 in your professional opinion should I consider balance shaft delete kit ?
Why would you want to do that? The balance shafts keep the engine from shaking. Would not do anything for reliability?
@@motorcarnut thank you
You’re welcome!
Thank you so much! I just completed this exact repair on a 2010 Tiguan. Couldn't have done it without this video and your guidance. Cost me about $1100 after buying tools, timing chain replacement kit, water pump, injectors, and machine shop head rebuild ($300).
Couple things that were difficult:
-Getting the exhaust manifold off and on, needed to use ratchet strap and pull the engine backward and jack it up fairly high to get the exhaust manifold on and off - it kept binding on the studs until i got a good angle.
-Still need to bend the turbo bracket back cause the bolt holes don't line up. Tbc
-The turbo elbow won't come out completely and the small thin gasket is hard to get back in, put a tiny bit of rtv on it so it would stick into the indention
-Wasn't able to get the engine mount off without jacking the engine up pretty high to clear the passenger side frame rail. Needed a very low profile m12 to torque them properly as there wasn't enough room for a torque wrench and regular m12
-one intake and one vacuum pump bolt stripped threads in the head, fortunately i was about to get m6 10mm longer than the required and that sorted me out. Used a couple washers for the vacuum pump bolt m6x90
-wasn't able to get the intake manifold off without removing the throttle body and needed to use wobble extensions from the bottom to put it back on after reinstalling.
-since i replaced the injectors, i needed to put them into the head first because of the notc injector notch, lubed the back oring and then put the intake manifold back on
Thank you and glad you completed the job yourself! Yes I understand the things you found difficult comes with experience but this extra information will help others if they find it difficult as well. Appreciate you taking the time to post this.
@@motorcarnut after replacing injectors, do I need to get those coded in vcds or other scan tool? I see mixed responses out there. I have all the repair manuals from erwin but I'm having issues finding any information.l
@emondsan No they don’t, BMWs and Mercedes Benz do amongst others.
I checked a lot of VW fix up videos, you are one of the best. Great work. I am such a critic, I don’t leave great comments like this at all.
Wow, thanks! It means a lot! Comments like yours motivates me to keep going!
For aligning the head, since the VW head bolts are tty, and have to be replaced, cut the heads off and cut a slot in them. Then put them in the corners a few threads deep and use as alignment. Once you put 4 in the middle, use a thin regular screwdriver to back the corners out and put the new bolts in. Then there are no alignment issues and no sliding the head around on the new head gasket. .
You can do that but there is really no need to. The head isn't that heavy and there are 2 dowels to line up the head.
Hi again, I was just wondering if you have any tips for getting the exhaust manifold to drop back into the channel when reinstalling it back onto the cylinder head? I have tried tapping it with a mallet as you suggested at 1:14:25 and it just won’t go into the track.
I think it is hitting the top studs which is stopping it from sliding further in, do I need to tilt it back more something? Any tips would be greatly appreciated😅
Sure, try this:
th-cam.com/video/_jMOdgJxsIY/w-d-xo.html
Probably should have done chain and guides. Chain looks stretched.
Yes, I always do.
@@motorcarnut doesn’t look like you did it in this video looks like old guides and chain with just a new tensioner. Why is the tensioner so far out of its a new chain.?
@georgehawksley2287 sometimes I make the videos on old engines just to show how it’s done, not necessarily I’m working on a customer’s car. That’s why.
I replaced the timing chain tensioner on my 2010 Audi a3 one week after I bought it with 100k miles on it. The car now has 140k and runs very smoothly. I also change the oil at least twice a year. Thank you for the video.!
Nice work! Thank you for the feedback much appreciated!
@@motorcarnut You're welcome!
@@motorcarnut Do you have any videos on misfires?
Yes I have many, just look up my video content and type “misfire “
@@motorcarnut Thanks
Just curious.. It looks like you released and removed the front engine motor mount. It also looks like you did not support the engine. Am I seeing this right that the engine holds sufficiently that way? Just curious as I am in the middle of one of these and I am always juggling to support the engine.
I do have a support bar underneath the engine but you can just lower it slowly and you’ll be fine if you can’t support it.
@@motorcarnut Thanks for taking the time to respond!
No problem
Great video I’m so close to done but I can’t for the life of me get the harmonic balancer bolt to come back off so I can put the actual harmonic balancer back on - the little white plastic ring that kept the timing all in place is stuck on too tightly I think, so instead of turning the bolt I’m just turning the crank and the whole timing chain all around. Any advice anyone???? Ty!
(At 1:27:01 in the video he already has the bolt off and that’s what I’m trying to do)
Try an impact
@@motorcarnut thank you for the reply! I got it all back together and added oil and turned it on just to the fan a few times and everything like you said. At first it was fine although it had a little trouble starting (the battery has been out and it’s been sitting for 3 weeks while I work on this in my spare time) but then I seemed good. I added more coolant (I’d done a flush because my head gasket was blown) and turned on the car with heat to get to operating temp so it would suck the coolant in. But then I got a strong gas smell so I turned it off and sure enough there’s a big gas leak but I can’t figure out exactly where it’s coming from. Maybe the fuel injectors or right underneath the intake manifold? It’s definitely not the HPFP or the line in or out of it. Any ideas what I can check or how to figure out what exactly is leaking?
Yes probably the o rings for the fuel injectors, maybe not installed correctly or they got damaged, pretty rare but does happen.
@ ok will take that back off and look it over thank you!
Is the process similar for a TDI engine?
Not really, if may help you in some ways but that engine is a diesel and the parts are different.
Any trick to getting the exhaust manifold off? Got the bolts off and it slides up but won't clear the lip. Drop the engine down a bit on the jack? Raise it?
UPDATE: had pull the engine toward the front of the car and it came right out (have the motor mount off already)
Did you remove anything else? ours isn't budging.
@@Q0ldMan If its not moving at all, I would suspect you didn't get all the exhaust manifold bolts out. For me, it would slide upward about 3/4" but I had a hard time getting it over the lip that holds the manifold
@@Q0ldMan oh, there's a bracket that goes down from the manifold that you need to unbolt. Two bolts I think and as far as the video says, you need to bend it in order to allow the manifold to tilt enough to come off
@@emondsan we got the bolts off but that thing will not bend much for us. maybe that's our problem?
@@Q0ldMan I think I bent it out about 1.5-2 inches, I can't recall how I went about doing it either. Getting it off and on was kinda a pain, so be patient (or disconnect the exhaust I guess). When I lifted it, it would bind on the exhaust bolts. I used a combination of jacking the engine up and down and a rachet strap to pull the engine forward or backwards. Tbh I can't remember which ended up working cause I tried it so many times. Maybe @motorcarnut can shed some light
Man what a great video! I have a Skoda Octavia 1.8 TSI (engine code CDAA) and I have a cylinder 1 misfire. Very rough idle, but when the RPMs get above 2500, the engine drives just fine and the flashing check engine light disappears. I have done a compression test which showed that cylinder 1 had low compression. Unfortunatly I never did a leakdown test and instead just started dismantlig alot of stuff. Now I am at the point where the valve/cam cover is off, and I see no unusual stuff at cylinder one. Do you have any tips?
How low was the compression? If you can put number 1 cylinder at TDC and still do a leak down test, it will tell you where you are leaking from.
@ I dont remember exact digits, but Cyl 1 was 1/10 (10%) of what the others cylinder were. I will definetly do that, but I was wondering since you probably have encountered similar problems to mine.
And lets say it is a burnt valve, is there any way to remove the cylinder head without messing with the timing chain by the crank? Is it possible to only remove it from the camshafts?
Thank you for the quick reply, really appreciate it!
Unfortunately you can't but once the head is off setting up the timing chain again isn't hard at at just have to remove the metal timing cover.
Hi 20 mins in and your already talking about removing the timing cover. Is it possible to remove the head without doing this? Ie de tension the tensioner and slip off the chain from up top and leave in situ? Thanks.
Unfortunately not, Has to be done the proper way or you will never get the car to run right. Plus its a great idea to replace the timing chain tensioner while you're there because if it's an old one it will fail and destroy your engine, I have many videos you should check out on that as well.
Wat about the valve cover
What is the name of that tool you used to take the harmonic balancer bolt off I can’t find it anywhere
You can get one here:
www.amazon.com/BELEY-T10355-Crankshaft-Holding-Vibration/dp/B07WVXGFVS/ref=asc_df_B07WVXGFVS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4368076540821294606&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004531&hvtargid=pla-2281435176898&psc=1&mcid=d5148a16ab10363c9186bf72b7a319f9&hvocijid=4368076540821294606-B07WVXGFVS-&hvexpln=73
Just doing a valve cover do I need to take off the and the harmony v balancer and use that special tool for that value
No
What is the part number for the headgasket set you used with all the gaskets in it?
You can just search head gasket set on amazon with your year and model if you’re not going with oem
You are my hero could not get the turbo out thanks for the great video
Glad I could help! And really appreciate the feedback!
What sizes do you need for the triple square bits
Just get a set, you’ll need about four different sizes
Actually it is a lot work. Incredible! thanks for sharing. I was just looking for gasket replacement for Audi A3 2002 8L1 BFQ.
Thank you very much! I don’t have any on the engine yet.
Great Video! Got a 2009 VW CC (fifth Vin Digit is a "L") with a TSI CCTA engine with high miles and had major failure of the timing chain & tensioner. Looking to purchase a used ccta engine to swap into it. I see a lot of Tiguans for sale up to 2018. I'm looking for a newer/newest possible used engine that is compatible....What is the latest year CCTA engine swap that I can I purchase without total chaos and ease?
Best thing to do is go on a site like carparts, it's a salvage site and put in your vehicle info and select highest years and you'll see the highest.
Thanks again for the info and such quick response! I was on that site when I commented (I have been using it for years). I found it hard to believe that it goes to 2018 CCTA 2.0.. Can you please help with recommending trusted parts suppliers so I might possibly help credit you for your time and expertise? Obviously a new timing belt kit should be installed; are there any other items that i should replace prior to install to reduce possible future problems? Replace things like the rear main seal, water pump, sensors etc. to have extra peace of mind? Anything that should be avoided? Second opinions are always better than second guessing!!! Much appreciated
I also just checked that site as well. Does go up to 2018, but not sure if intake manifolds would be different or not. They would be able to tell you when you buy it.
You can just swap yours over if different. I would replace timing chain tensioner, water pump rear and front main seals. I can't recommend anyone because I don't trust none of them.
I would make sure I get a warranty and if you are installing it yourself make sure their warranty includes private owners installing the engine too.
Also I would find one with the highest year and lowest mileage. I don' t know your budget but that's what I would do. I mean I would rebuild the engine that's in the car now with all new parts but that's just me.
I don’t have the special tool to remove the harmonic balancer. Would it be fine if I used an impact wrench to break it loose. Remove slowly and use a bushing a some sort to put back in with the bolt to keep everything in place?
I wouldn’t because the ratcheting effect can cause chain damage and the spacer to hold everything in time is soft so it wouldn’t damage the teeth.
I can’t get exhaust off. I followed every step. Feeling like. I missed something. Even loosened the bracket it sits on
@luiscamacho06 bent the bottom bracket out a little and pry up and out on exhaust manifold it’s a tight fit but will come right out
I’m at the timing part. I did every step but the can end up about half a tooth off every time. I’ve removed and installed 4 times and same result every time
@luiscamacho06 what do you mean? Line up the colored links to the marks it’s not the complicated?
Amazing video thank you for your work. How do we bend that lower exhaust manifold bracket back to get the bolts on?
Thank you!
Just use a crowbar to bend it enough to thread the bolts
this is an amazing video, my cc also had the dreaded timing failure. its funny becuase someone warned me about it and told me to replace the tensioner, and i procrastinated too long lol and sure enough, it went bad. thanks for the detailed video, it helps a lot!
Thank you! Sorry you have to go through this. You most definitely bent all the intake valves, the exhaust valves are probably fine as well as the cylinder head and the pistons.
@@motorcarnut I started taking it apart and when I took the timing cover off, the top chain guide was missing and I found pieces of it, so my tensioner might be good (still replacing anyways) but now I'm gonna replace all the guides as well
Well that’s not good, that can happen is by a jumped timing chain. Do you have the old tensioner in there?
Incredible video! First time watching it and I find it incredibly informative. I’m currently dealing with a blown head gasket in my 2013 Tiguan and this is the most helpful video I’ve found so far.
Question: do I need to take off the timing assembly if I just want to replace the head gasket? Car has 120,xxx miles and it just needs to survive this winter.
Thank you really appreciated the comment!
Yes you do have to take the primary timing chain assembly off to do the head gasket be not the balance shaft chain. It's all explained in the video, And search my channel for "VW hidden part " video it you have that bracket on yours or manifold won't come off.
Thanks for the video, attempting this repair after learning I have 8 bent intake valves.
What sealants do you recommend for the valve cover, lower timing cover, and vacuum pump seals? OEM or have you found out aftermarket work better and last longer?
I believe i answered your question before?
Thanks for this video! Recently got a 2010 VW passat wagon, about 156k miles on it, drove for 5-6 days and the timing system caputted on me. It had misfires so tried changing the spark plugs and coils, aided for a bit, then coming home one day the car wouldn't accelerate and started shaking. Luckily I was only going 35-40 mph when it happened so things aren't likely torn up entirely in the engine. Trying to fix this sucker up but can't find a good manual at a reasonable price, so this video helped a lot!
No problem, thanks for the comment. I have more videos on these engines on all their problem areas.
Hi there, thank you so much for this video, the manual I bought wasn’t helping.
I was wondering what I should do if the 6mm hex plug on the exhaust manifold heat shield 36:44 starts to strip? Should I use a bigger size torx and try to hammer it in?
I know that bolt is such a pain if you strip it and that bolt really serves no purpose. Yes try to hammer it in if you can with such little room.
I'm back 9 months later argh!!! It seems the dreaded piston rings have caught up with me. I am quietly confident I could replace them after watching your videos and others. In your opinion would you remove the front of the car to completely remove the engine and do a complete tear down inc balance shaft removal/check , or would you leave the engine in and drop the rods pistons out the bottom and just replace them and restore the head? Cheers.
Hey sorry to hear you're having problems again. I'm actually making a video as we speak on removing the engine from the top. Will be done soon. You can't access the pistons from bottom unfortunately, I explain it here:
th-cam.com/video/RLtI10NOr9g/w-d-xo.html
@@motorcarnut Hey brilliant thanks ever so much. I just checked the link/vid very helpful again. To be honest I think ill pull the engine. The last time I replaced the cam chain with your step by step vid and discovered the screen missing from the cam bridge. I kinda knew I was on borrowed time so now I want to go the whole way and even pull the balance shafts to check the screens on those. Thanks again dude I ll wait for your vid. I just hope the weather's not too brutal, last year it was mostly 7 below in the garage ffs.
Sure, no problem and again appreciated the feedback! 7 below? man you need a heater in that garage
@@motorcarnut Feedback is the least I can do I wish all viewers would do it and hit the thumbs up as it boosts ya channel. I had a heater on last year for 5 hours and managed a 6 below lol, gonna build a rocket stove in there before I start this year. Thanks again dude.
Thank you! Sure no problem and good luck and stay warm!
Thanks for the video! Which screws besides the head bolts did you renew? VW noticed a lot of screws as single use in their work instruction, for example all screws of the metal timing chain cover, all torx30 of the camshaft frame and so on...
Just the head bolts all the others are perfectly fine.
That is an amazing video after seeing you now i feel more confident to do mine
Thank you very much! Go for it and save a lot of money. I got your back if you get stuck!
Question and sorry if it’s a bad one. If I have a leak on my vacuum pump then I cannot just take it off like you did in the video and replace the gasket for it and torque it with gasket seal? Do I have to get a new engine or do I have to replace the whole thing? I found this video so I could work on my MK 2 TT because I noticed an oil leak and I wanted to see if a head gasket would fix the problem plus just doing maintenance as there’s nothing wrong with the car but just that leak. Thank you for the video as well!
You can just remove the vacuum pump and clean the old gasket and surfaces and reinstall but don’t put too much gasket maker or you can clog the oil ports.
@@motorcarnut thank you, will be doing this and I’ll give an update and hopefully I don’t have to do any timing chains but I will have to do my belt soon as im nearing 100k miles
Great video with great detail! Now i have a mk6 gti with a bad piston ring which is allowing boost to get past the piston and into the oil pan causing it to leak. Will i need to remove my entire engine to take out the piston or can I just pull the head and oil pan?
I don’t believe you can get to all the connecting rods just by removing the pan.
Excellent explaination. Do you have a video on replacing a vlave cover gasket on a 2018 VW Passat r-line 2.0?
Thank you! I do not at this time sorry
What’s the importance to have the pistons a little bit lower than TDC when installing cams in?
So you don’t bent a valve when the timing is not set up yet. If the pistons are not at TDC this won’t happen.
@@motorcarnut i have officially completely a cylinder head install with the help of your video. I have rotated the engine several times and have confirmed time. Now, I have to install intake manifold and injectors.
Awesome! Keep me posted when it's running.
@@motorcarnut I am almost done. Im at the point where I have to push the turbo manifold back into its spot. I’m not able to get it into its “cubby” area or little cut away area… I’m able to push it towards the head but it doesn’t fall into place like you mention. Any suggestions?
@ivanvega2821 It will, just push it towards the head and give it a little tap with a mallet, it will drop in
how does the bottom exhaust manifold nut/stud, next to and blocked by the turbo, come out?
Good question, you only take out the top exhaust manifold nuts as the bottom is just slipped into a wedge groove so when you tighten the top nuts it puts pressure on the bottom and creates the seal. Also you have to take off the brace in the back of the turbo to slide the manifold up, then out.
@@motorcarnut I figured it I have 2014 Tiguan. The bottom has clamps.
It’s hard to help people sometimes who don’t give year make and model, I’m not a mind reader.
@@motorcarnut no doubt, great video otherwise
Thank you!
So I'm doing this on my wife's car and the secondary tensioner was the one that failed and jumped. Can I just retime it and replace the chain/tensioner and be good?
The secondary tensioner is for the balance shaft so yes you should be good. I never had one of those fail. Make sure primary didn’t jump because it will bent the valves.
@Motorcarnut it did that's why I'm doing it broke all intake rockers and bent all intake valves. Exhaust is untouched. But main tensioner had so much tension I couldn't move it like you did but I could do that on the secondary. Thanks for the reply
Gotcha, sorry to hear you got to do more work.
How different is this compared to the FSI from a 2008 GTI 2.0 they both look similar
They are pretty different
@@motorcarnut nothing alike on this video then?
@mtsanchez27 well the FSI is a belt driven engine the TSI is chain driven. So right there they are very different and sensors are not the same, water pump is different, block etc.
@@motorcarnut ok, thank you very much
@mtsanchez27 no problem!
I have my car running but for some reason it keeps overheating? No heat inside either. I thought new water pump/thermostat so I replaced with the original but no help, still can't seem to get flow. Belt is good and turning? Tried everything to vent and fans run but just idling it goes over 205 and no heat and when I took it for a drive it still got hot withing one mile? Amy help is appreciated. Thanks Tim
Did you replace the overflow cap? How’s the radiator? If both are good you can have a blown head gasket. The no heat is a sign of air in the system caused by either an air pocket or pistons pumping up the system.
@@motorcarnut I just rebuilt the motor, new head and gasket etc. I am hoping it's something simpler than that. Any tests you can suggest? Thanks
I also did a pressure test at 15 and it has held overnight, I would think a head gasket leak would show there?
Did you replace the overflow cap? And was the car overheating before you did the work?
@@motorcarnut I did not replace it, I bought the car 3 years ago with the head off and just got to rebuilding. I know I have no flow through the radiator lines are cold, no flow back to reservoir, no heat, I had put on a new waterpump but went back to the old one but no different. I am going to drain and inspect the lines to the radiator and flow some water through the radiator? Been sitting open possible he stuffed a rag or something in there? Should know more later. Thanks
All my days as a vw master tech I've never heard of a triple torx lol
I know, triple torx or triple square
Is the FSI pretty much the same procedure ... Except I know it has a timing belt, not chains ?
They are similar, yes
Do you oil the head bolts before installing and torquing the head bolts?
Yes, just a light coat
Hey im stuck at the exhaust manifold i bent the lower bracket off the motor and removed the top 4 bolts on the manifold but i cant get the manifold to move out of the slot any advice car is a Volkswagen CC
Yes, lift manifold up off the slots evenly on both sides then get I crowbar and put it in between the manifold in the middle and pop it out. It’s tight but comes out.
Thanks for the detailed instructions and video. Do I have to take off the cam cover to remove the head ? eg can i access all the head bolts through the cam cover ?
Thank you! Yes cam cover has to be removed.
.
Do I need to put the car on a lift? I know it will make the remove/install easy but I don’t have access to one.
Absolutely not, just make sure when you jack up the car put jack stands underneath securely before going under the car.
Really hoping you can lead me in the right direction here. I've been working on my car for a while now same tsi engine as in the video. Recently I got a P0304 Code with a bunch of white smoke coming out of the engine bay as well as exhaust with a rough idle. Took the coil pack and spark plug out of cylinder 4 and saw that there was coolant below sadly. Could this be from a bad gasket on the intake manifold or do you think the head gasket is blown or a crack in the block? The only code popping up is from cylinder 4 so that's why I'm questioning it. Really hope you can get back to me with some sort of information, thank you!
You have a blown head gasket, there should never be coolant in the cylinders. That’s why it’s misfiring.
@@motorcarnut Right, maybe I was mistaken by coolant i'm no expert lol. Could it possibly be fuel by a bad fuel injector?
@FourCeez yes
How did you take off the exhaust manifold I can’t find it anywhere
I explained it in the video. Just the top bolts come out, the bottom sits in a V channel and just lifts up and out.
No easy i took out the top bolts and removed the two tts 10mm at the bottom but can’t take it out 😢
@@ahmedsaid1823 did you get this somehow? we're stuck here too
I can't get the damn intake off. I think something's still holding it in... where should I be looking?
Yes there is an aluminum support bar that goes from the throttle body to the block, older ones have it newer ones don’t.
@@motorcarnut That was it; that triple square came in handy. Thank you!
No problem! Sorry about that I will have to update the video description.
12:53 - "I took the inspection plug out. I have a video on this also." What video? You've got a lot of videos!
Also I greatly appreciate it; thank you!
What are trying to do?
@@motorcarnut Well I've got a 2011 GTI and the timing chain got off and the valves got busted, so I'm trying to pull the heads off to take it to a machine shop. Then I guess I have to put it back together...
Anyway, I wanted to pull out the inspection plug and maybe see what I can learn, because I have to get familiar with all this stuff to keep this car running forever.
Your videos are amazing and I appreciate it so much, thanks again!
Sure no problem! Just search my timing chain tensioner VW videos
Hi ...what tool you used for the exhausht menifold?
There are no special tool to remove exhaust manifold, Just the 13mm nuts and lift up and off.
great job and details. but the timing chain needed to be changed preferably along with the guides its stretched, the tensioner should only show 2-3 tooth out. that's definitely stretched.
Thank you!
This engine was a demonstration, but you are correct, always good to replace the timing chain and guides too while your'e there, do the job once, do it right!
19:35 is that the Diverter valve location? Can you tell me what bit I have to use to take it off?
Yes, I believe it’s a torx t20
@@motorcarnut much appreciated bro thank you!!!
Hi, great video I’ve used this as my main resource to fix my scirocco. I’m currently rushing to get it all done before uni!! This vid has saved me from a fiat panda haha thanks
That’s great, thanks for taking the time to comment I appreciate it.
Great video. I´m about to do this on my engine now for the same reason,, no compression . How many hours did it take you to do this job?
Thank you!
Well I have all the tools and lift and do hundreds of these. To take it off should be a couple hours for you same when installing it. If you have bent valves that’s extra time as well.
@@motorcarnut i was looking for your video when you clean up cylinderhead when you change valves. but i can´t find it?
Hey im having the same issue i did coil pack, spark plugs, intake manifold and still nothing. I did a compression test and all cylinders are at 125 except for the third cylinder i have no compression.... do you have a shop im in queens
Sorry its a 2015 vw gti cxca engine
Yes, but we are not in Queens.
What part of new york maybe i can take it to your shop
What year do you have I have the exact same problem
@@krystlehoward4090 2015 gti S
Hey friend! Another quick question. Where did you get that new cylinder head you installed on this vehicle?
You can get them at a salvage yard or on eBay etc.
@@motorcarnut have you had any experience with the Power Torque remanufactured complete heads from Ol Reilly?
@ivanvega2821 No I haven’t, sorry.
@@motorcarnut when you mentioned taking off the turbo bracket at the bottom (held my the two M10s) you day to pry it away from the block with a pry bar. Do you have to actually see the becket bend away from the block? Or just pry it so loosen it up a bit?
@ivanvega2821 Good question. The reason why is when you remove the exhaust manifold you have tilt it back and up to get it off the lip on the cylinder head.
is it absolutely necessary to replace the head bolts or any other bolts with new ones?
On this VW engine the head bolts torque to yield so they must be replaced, other bolts on this engine you can reuse.
Amazing video. Very detailed. Going to attempt it on my son's 2010 Volkswagen Passt B6 2.0T TSI engine. Will keep you posted.
Thank you! Let me know if you have a problem and don't forget to watch my video on the hidden bracket on intake manifold I forgot to mention in this video.
@@motorcarnut Will do. Thank you! I'll also capture and post a video on this. You are amazing. BTW, just watched the video on the hidden bracket! Thank you very much.
@SivaFolsom thank you! Appreciated
@@motorcarnut Quick question. I'm almost done with the disassembly. Have the Crank pulley removed and secured the timing crankshaft sprocket with plastic spacer and crank bolt. The crank pulley only moved 1/2 turn in either direction. Is it due to the pistons hitting the intake valves? Also, when the tensioner failed, and I tried to start a few times, heard the knocks (pistons hitting valves) and then only heard the starter motor running, but no crank. What's the likelihood of a broken tooth(s) on the flywheel or failed starter solenoid (from your experience). I'm going to remove the starter and find out.
@SivaFolsom yes you’re hitting the valves. I don’t think it’s the flywheel, hopefully just hit the valves and didn’t seize the crankshaft which would be rare.
Absolutely great reference! Did you do a video on the head rebuild? Link Please?
Thank you! I didn’t but I will be doing another head soon and will make another video at that time.
wow no kidding my balance shaft links were all lined up when i pulled it apart. i have seen that on subaru timing belt once. kewl
You got lucky
Hey friend! It’s me AGAIN! So I’m having a strange issue with my 2009 Tiguan after the head install. So everything seems to work perfectly fine but for some off reason. It keeps destroying the oil pressure valve (the cylinder thing inside the intake valve that’s controlled by the magnet). I have installed 2 used OEM from the junk yard and it keeps ruining them. This 3rd time I ordered one by autozone and it was brand new from Dorman manufacture. It looked like pretty good quality but it also got destroyed. It seems like the oil pressure valve keeps building to much pressure or something and getting destroyed. Any suggestions are always appreciated!
Ok, did you replace the cam bridge? It has an oil control ball with that filter screen that keeps ripping? This will cause that problem, however the used ones will fail as well and the doorman one are not good quality. A new OEM one is the way to go. It’s probably misfiring and long crank time when it fails right?
@@motorcarnut I didn’t replace the cam bridge, I did find the ripped screen on the cylinder head thankfully. I ended up taking off the round cap off the cam bridge as you mentioned on your video. I just installed another Dorman VVT valve. Hopefully this one will last longer than a day… it just seems like a strange issue. If it destroys it again. Going to take off the upper time cover and replace the cam bridge abs VVT oil valve as well. To add to the issues. The Tiguan is also leaking rain water from the roof I guess. Went to the car wash and my driver side floor was soaked 😆 never a dull moment with this thing.
@@motorcarnut correct, it misfired and sounds like a tractor. Still drives but it sounds awful. Going to take off cam bridge and inspect it. Anything specific to look for when I have the cam bridge off? Also, I know that VW started to make the cam bridges a little different. Will the newer revised part fit on the gen 1 EA888 motor??
@ivanvega2821 not sure, what I do is check the vw parts site and see if your engine is listed under that part and if it is your good to go.
@@motorcarnut well, the cam bridge ball and spring are all broken. I found the spring but the ball is no where to be found. I’m afraid I’m going to have to pull the lower time cover and maybe the oil pan to search… and destroy. 😂
life-saver of a video!! by any chance did you torque exhuast manifold before or after torquing the cylinder head on? thank you for this video :)
Thanks for the comment, appreciated! Yes, After the head was torqued.
are the head bolts reusable?
VW head bolts are not tty meaning you can reuse them but for the cost I just replace them.
Hi, I've subscribed, amazing video... I'm in the UK, my head gasket has gone in my Audi a3 1.8t tfsi 2008 Cabriolet and watching your video I want to fix it myself... The tools I need, would it be ideal to get, Timing Chain kit or individual Timing Chain parts... I will be getting a full gasket set though... Plus all the tools I need but not if they come with the Timing Chain Kit... Also can I use this video to do my car, engine looks the same almost, or could you do a video on a Audi a3 1.8t tfsi 2008... Your help would be much appreciated... Keep up the amazing video's...
Thank you very much for the comment. You can use this video for the 1.8 as well.It's a little different as far as accessories and the engine is vertical in the car. Now are you replacing valves too from a failed timing chain tensioner? Because you will need the valves as well. The timing chain kit will include both chains all guides and both tensioners, however you don't have to touch the secondary chain or tensioner if they are ok because they rarely ever fail unless you want to. Timing chain kit if you are doing both chains get the full kit if not get just the main guide rails and tensioner on ebay or amazon same the the full gasket set.
Tool kit:
www.amazon.com/DPTOOL-Engine-Timing-T10352-T40196/dp/B07SPW3G28/ref=asc_df_B07SPW3G28/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343362361884&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15193194066396466452&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004584&hvtargid=pla-784006645356&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=70591845793&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343362361884&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15193194066396466452&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004584&hvtargid=pla-784006645356
@@motorcarnut o wow, no thank you for the quick response... I'll be rebuilding, so everything's literally going to be new... If I have ant more questions is ok to message you...? Once again thank you so much... ❤️
Yes, no problem
great job man ,did you changed the valves seals for the exhaust valves or not? how did test that all the valves are well sealed after the valves job ?
Thanks bro, yes, every time I do head work I replace the valve stem seals, and I lap the valves with lapping compound to re seat them.
@@motorcarnut you do that just for the valve that needs replacing ?.the other ones you don't touch them ?
It depends, if you’re doing this big job I’d replace all of them but if you’re on a budget you can get away with replacing just the bad ones.
@@motorcarnut thx bro .may be i will do that in few days.i had a timing failure while crancking my engine this morning (the engine didn't even start) and the piston hit the valve .do you think that can bent a valve ?
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I am on with a Skoda Octavia, in the UK, which has the same engine. I don't think you have the Skoda models over the pond. Have you ever had issues not changing the injector seals?.
Thank you!, Every now and then I see a Skoda. And you don't have to replace them if their not damaged. Just clean them and put some oil on the seals and you'll be fine.
@@motorcarnut Thank you for your speedy reply. I will give the injector seals a go. I have changed them in the past and they did not feel any different to the used ones. Keep up the good work. And thanks again form the UK
Thank you, really appreciate it. Good luck
combien de livres sur les boltes du couver
??
are you for real, that little mark on the metal plate, wow.... when it should be a visible indented stamp for easy timing alignment.
Thank you for the video!
Thanks for the comment. Yes I try to point out all the areas that may cause someone confusion and time.
How did you connect the injectors to their respective connectors with intake fitted? Is is not best to fit injectors into head first and line up fuel rail when replacing intake? Do you need new seals on injectors as recommended by others? Great video, especially the turbo removal from head, saves a lot of grief.
You install the injectors with the intake manifold together and if the seals are not damaged you can reuse them
extremely informative....so informative, that I've decided that I will NOT be doing this. Time to push it out into the highway...
Sorry about that. It ain’t that hard if you’re mechanically inclined and have some special tools.
Greetings good Sir. I’m coming back to report that the chain job you helped me with went perfect!
Now I’m having a different issue 😅
I just turned on the car this morning and I decided to unhook the intake manifold hose that goes to the PCV valve (car has been running rough at idle and stalling out with P0300 and P1250) . At the manifold hole, I put my thumb and told my buddy to turn in the car. The vehicle started and idled 200% better. I than decided to remove the PCV system so I could suck and blow inside of it to see if the PCV valve was faulty. I was able to suck and was not able to blow in, which my understanding this means it's a good PCV system.
Why was the car running fine when u plugged the intake manifold hole with my thumb
Glad to hear that and thanks for the update!. I think the PCV valve is bad. There is a round disk on top of the PCV valve and to the right there is a small hole, with the engine running out your finger on hole and see if you feel vacuum? If you do it’s bad.
@@motorcarnut I don’t feel vacuum. I unplugged the hose going to the PCV valve at the engine side (not the intake manifold side) and the car just stalled and felt no vacuum. The car runs perfectly fine when I plug the I take manifold hole and it has some serious vacuum. It gave me a hickie on my thumb 😂
Another thing that I found that’s strange. When the car is in the ON position, u her a weird clicking noise coming from the top of the HPFP. I unplug the connector that’s on top of it and the clicking goes away. I’m not sure if that’s normal or not.
@ivanvega2821 I’m talking about leaving all hoses connected to PCV while engine is running and feel for vacuum from that small hole on the side of the round disk. The other noises you’re hearing is normal
@@motorcarnut I just tried. No vacuum at that little hole in the circular area. The vehicle runs ok at fold start but when it settles down, it just stalls and misfires like crazy 😩 I ordered a PCV valve from Amazon earlier today for $68 just to see if that’s the issue. I know it won’t be quality part but at least I’ll be able to diagnose if that’s my issue. Shotgunning parts 😂
@ivanvega2821 let me know how it works out!
the gasket maker was put on poorly, it's best to leave a thin line following the channels and let the mating of the two surfaces spread, it's the sealant is made to be safe on the oil system if it pours over.
The can cradle uses anaerobic sealer not gasket maker
Watching this as I’m half way through my 5th one of these just to compare methods
Great. I don’t do these videos for speed, but for people to understand as simple as I can make them, so they get the confidence to tackle it themselves and save a lot of money doing right themselves.
@@motorcarnut gotcha yea, I have a similar system to doing them but have to do them with speed so I take things out in chunks, like the air filter for example I just undo the connector, move the clamp and remove the t30 then pull them entire thing out in one
Thank for your time, for that absolutely perfect detailed video! So very helpful!
You're very welcome! Thank you for the feedback!
A very useful video. Thank you very much
You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback
Do you just replace the valves yourself?
You can if you are handy. I have many videos showing you how.
@@motorcarnut does it typically mess up the guides on these cars?
@blindabinda1234 No
Mejor imposible hermano, voy a meterle mano, tengo que hacerle eso mismo a mi carro, me lo han trasteado en un taller supuestamente profesional y lo que hicieron fue devolvermelo mas malo que como estaba. Con este video lo voy a hacer yo mismo. Saludos!!!
Thank you! Good luck! If you run into a problem let me know.
You wouldnt want to stop by and pull my engine out for me would ya. I was told it has no compression by my mechanic who also went on to say he hates working on vw. Its been sitting in my lot for 2 years. Id love to get it running again. At this point id rather yank it out and put another in
If he hates working for a living regardless of vehicle you should a better mechanic.
I have a timing chain kit and special tool kit for it. What other parts would I need. Also, how long would you say something like this takes for an average DIYer. I have done misc repairs before, injectors, head gaskets, exhaust manifolds, etc… but nothing this in depth.
You should be able to do it in a weekend no problem. You will need the spline drive socket for the head bolts
Thank you for posting this.
You're welcome! Thanks for the comment
I believe this is same as TFSI except TSI is VW and TFSI is Audi. My engine in an 2010 Audi A3 2.0 TSI looks exactly like this.
It is
your the boss MAN!!!! thanks bud
Glad to help!
Change your glove!!!
Jk awesome video man, I love how detailed it was.
lol, I did. Thank you for the feedback, really appreciated!
all that work to fix up the cylinder head but you're reusing the old chain and guides? it's the old style of chain which is susceptible to stretch (which is probably why the original tensioner failed as it had to overextend far). The new revised style of chain has the links arranged differently and is meant to last longer.
Video is about cylinder head removal and instal, not what parts to use.
Great video, thanks for sharing😊
No problem and appreciate the feedback
thank you for making this video. the book ( alldata) sux pretty bad for this timing setup
No problem, thanks for the comment
Great video. Well explained 👍
Thank you very much, appreciate the feedback.
Thank thank thank yo so much.. one of the best videos and.. amazing explanation.
Thank you! I really appreciate you taking the time to comment.
Amazing video. Still scared..!!
Thank you! Don’t be if you get stuck give me a holler.
It is longtitudal VS transeverse.
All Audis except A3 ant TT get longtitudal engine placement. :)
Yeah it’s the same engine just put in the vehicle a different way.
You're the best !!
Thank you! Appreciate the comment!
Gracias Mr MOTORCARN. Voy a ajustar un motor igual con tu video ya me di una buena idea de como lo voy hacer saludos de cdmx ciudad de mexico ha le va su buen like gracias
Thank you for the kind words!! And good luck! If you have a problem let me know!
I love the video and it is very informative. But please for god sakes change those gloves hahaha. they are not helping by 30 minutes into the video hahaha
lol , Thank you very much appreciated! So funny, I didn’t realise this until you pointed it out. Was concentrated on what I was doing, they weren’t even gloves anymore
No they weren’t lol but I have worn gloves till they fell off so I know how it is haha thanks for the video! I will definitely be watching more of your content in the future!
@lisademing4784 Lol, Thank you!
Very detail
Thank you! Cheers!
Your the best
Thank you! Appreciate the feedback!
WOW!
Thank you!
Hi your video was excellent but please is it possible to translate to Spanish ? Thank you for your friendship
Thanks, sorry I wouldn’t know how to do that and I don’t speak the language.
Thank you so much
No problem, thanks for the comment