I respect what you said about people always putting in their 2 cents! We always respond by saying to them "Well let me go to your channel and see how it's done" when they have NOTHING on their channel🤣🤣 you're doing a great job!!!
I have been quoted £700 for my fiesta ecoboost timing belt and tensioner to be replaced. I walked away thinking " oh yeah they must think I was born yesterday"😀 Having watched this series ,Iam going to run back to them and beg them to take my money 😲👍
@@bobp6742 Definately change the oil pump belt aswell - Ford charge around £1400+vat so £700 just for the belt is quite cheap. Just done mine a month ago myself for around £600 inc' parts & special tools - oil & filter & a full week warm weather with the engine in situ but this chap has his work cut out & probably take several weeks. The sealey AK629 torque multiplier will easily undo that crank bolt , they cost under £200 as of July 22.
@@bobp6742 Yes I used the sealey AK629 (the new model is now 4:1 ratio which supersedes the 3.3:1 ratio) torque multiplier to undo the bolt and like you , used a torque wrench which was a Norbar 400 3/4” drive on a 21mm impact socket up to 300Nm , then 350Nm , then finally 400Nm (well 410 actually) and that tightened with ease as it’s nearly 3ft long . I mean these engines have clearly been designed not to be worked on by the average DIY person , as this lad has had to extract the block and make do with what he has got , I’m fortunate to have obtained most of the special tools needed to carry out the belts change . I hope this guy now has his car back on the road as I would like to know what’s happened since this was posted ? Car : Ford C-Max Zetec 1.0 125 6 speed IB6 2014 64 reg .
I was a motorcycle mechanic for 5 years and recently left the trade but bought an ST150 as a project. It’s coming together and watching your vids is motivating and entertaining at the same time! I thought you were a mechanic before you said you weren’t so you must be pretty competent. Anyway, half the techs I used to work with always used to say that they were winging it!
Nothing but admiration for taking it on. The 'torque multiplier' and engine brace in the hall was genius. A triumph of hope over broken engine adversity. More power to your elbow!
I have the dam issue on the mk8 just about to take the head off hoping it's somthing like the gasket and not anything more serious this help alot thank you 🙏
Exactly mate, there’s been some really helpful people so far so fair play to them but a lot of people don’t seem to grasp that we learn by getting stuck in and having a go 💪🏼
Excellent video owned a focus with this engine installed ran very well but now exchanged for a Honda civic. Can't wait for the completion of this engine very interesting and well done for attempting it.
Fantastic video! So refreshing to hear such honesty about learning as you go along, and also retaining the trial-and-error attempts at getting the crankshaft bolt undone - you could've easily edited all that out and jumped straight to the hall-based-clamping-system but no, you kept in the previous attempts that we would've all made even if deep down we knew it probably wouldn't work! I wonder if an impact gun would've helped? I've got an el-cheapo 12v one which really punches above its weight (actually, it's dead heavy and it's also dead slow!) and has managed to undo many a fastening that I could've sworn were welded together. Great work and commentary; thanks for sharing! My wife's Ecoboost is due a new timing belt next year and whilst I've done a few belts now on other cars I won't be attempting this one... Somewhat nervously I don't want to pay a fortune for someone else to do it so I've decided to take the risk and see how we go. As much as I love her Fiesta I don't think I'd buy another with an Ecoboost in it - great on paper but I'm not impressed with its serviceability.
Great video mate. Take no notice of people who complain. You'll never learn by shying away from things. Looking forward to seeing you progress with the job and car. Love your torque multiplier 🤣
Thank you mate 🙏🏻 and cheers for all your help, wouldn’t have noticed the damage to the gasket without you 🤜🏻🤛🏻 reckon I could sell my version for the same price as the Ford one? 🤔😂
Excellent work! Stop justifying yourself for the work as well. Just nuts and bolts at the end of the day. I done the same on my Focus Rs with a little help from some friends in my garage and that is still running ( just about lol)
Well done and loving the series, the only video on TH-cam showing the bolt removal in a diy setting, top marks!. According to Haynes, the new bolt should be tightened 300Nm plus 90deg, might be easier to tighten it finally when in the car
Thank you! I mean it was a bit unorthodox but I got it off 😂 yeah I’ve heard 300 + 90° too so that’s good to hear, and if it’s out of the Haynes manual then even better so thank you for that, that’s a massive help 🙏🏻
300nm plus 90 plus 90 it’s tight, and you need to fit a new washer behind the pully, in the dealer we have the use of a torque multiplyer which makes things easy, do not try to do it in the car as the timing belt will jump
Excellent content !!!!! Definitely subscribing to this channel. Love his have ago approach. Has the saying goes if it's broke have a go because you can't break something that's broke....😉👍
Now that ive watched the videos I"m not touching my 1ltr ecoboost! My only issue was the coolant hose running so close to the oil filter. I managed to nick it with a chain wrench oil filter removal tool!! I shortened it to remove the nick, but now its too close to the filter! I will use extra hose and a joining pipe before the next filter change.
I'm just about to do my ecoboost timing belt got most parts together now. I'm lucky to have a torque wrench that goes up to 700Nm. When it comes to tightening the crankshaft pulley bolt It says in the Haynes manual if using a torque wrench to do the first two steps as instructed by ford then using a torque wrench tighten the bolt to 340Nm then a Further 90 degrees, is that the same info you've been given? Don't forget the new shim washer between the timing belt pulley and harmonic pulley.
Any progress? Regarding the head bolts I contacted a tool manufacturer/supplier (AST). Their tech dept said they are Polydrive and that their M10 Ribe bit (AST4426) would do the job. They actually have an engine at their facility to check.
Well done for undoing that bolt, it is massive compared to the ST150's. Goes to show, the failure was just little imperfection somewhere and has caused some damage. But fix it and send it... Very brave!
Its the groove in the top of your cylinders. A know weak point on the 4 cylinder ecoboosts and this 3 banger has the same groove. The later 4 cyls have a revised block without this groove - I wonder if the 3 cyls also have this revision.
Hi there, your video is great. I am working on the same car but stumbled on your video a bit too late for me. At minute 6:15 you explain that the flat spots on the camshafts should be lined up. I am having to redo that step. When you are lining it up, the non-shiny surface on both the camshafts have to face downwards--- horizontal to the ground, correct. Thanks!
My focus 1.0 ecoboost I plugged my other diagnostics scanner in and it says this fault is Power supply fuel pump Short circuit to positive or open Intermittent I ordered a low pressure fuel pump that will sort it i can start the car and rev it up but when let it idle car just dies and if i rev it it will stay running for a couple of minutes with accelerator keot pushed down a bit thanks for your info mate
I have just hd my wet belt done and pump belt the garage did it without taking the sump off. The looked at the pick up pipe with a mirror and said it was clean car only done 51k but 7 yers old. I still don't trust them as they said all sorts of stuff o yes we took this off that off. And when i inspected it the bolts had not been touched. When confronted they said o yes we did it without taking that off. Charged me £1100 wet belt pump belt seal aux belt. This summer i am planning on taking the sump off to check the pick up pipe myself. Great video let me know if you can see the oil pick up pipe from the side with the sump still on. Great video loved watching it. 🙏🫶👍
Ford blocks had a defect. TSB for Fusion and Escape ecoboost 4 cylinder. The top of your block has grooves cut inbetween the cylinders. The new updated block does not. Huge issue with this engine, coolant leaking into the cylinder. Low coolant and P0301, 302, 303, 0r 304 misfire code. Ford design flaw, see US lawsuit.
@@MendItModIt yes, please watch ford 1.5 ecoboost coolant leak p300 code on TH-cam. Some are by Ford mechanics that explain the differences in the top of the block. I would assume you have to order it from Ford.
My engine went boom and your videos are serious motivation to sort mine out. When you put coolant into the tank, did the coolant just completely disappear before you removed the engine ? Also would it crank but not start ?
Great video mate, I'm currently trying to change the head gasket on the same engine as you. I got to the stage where I need to remove the crankshaft bolt but I find it very difficult. I'm using the same 'torque multiplier' as you breaker bar and pipe. Problem is I have broken two breaker bars trying to remove this bolt already haha. What sort of breaker bar did you use and can you recommend anything that might help with the removal of this damn bolt haha. Thanks
Didn't you think that the reason why there are on 2 port holes in the gasket instead of in all like on the block is because through there the coolant gets out through the cyl head and into the coolant outlet hoses that go out of the engine? That's why only those 2 are needed and it should be that way. You can still always think that perhaps they knew why they this or that😉.
what was wrong with a normal dry timing belt i dont know, would mean engines would last more than 50K and you need to replace the engine preferably a 1.4 froma a fiesta mk6
Sweet! so how do you plan on getting the torque right on the bolt for the crank pulley? I think its like 300 or 400nm torque setting. looking forward to the next video.
@@Taz6688 It doesn't have a keyway from stock so it's something you would have to machine in to both the crank and pulley. Then, what torque would you use considering it's now outside of the engineering specs originally used for the motor?
@@troyd-motorsport9933 many Renaults are the same, extremely tight crank bolt as it relies on friction fit, it does not need to be in the past many cars had a keyway and pin to locate the crank pulley, you can use the cams to adjust the timing if needed, no need to both to be keyless, its a daft design, Not done a ford but renault was a pain, tighten up 120nm then 90 degree, no easy quick way to lock the flywheel, just difficult for the sake of it.
well done that man …wicked vid mike …keep them coming ..😎😎😎…lovin the breaker bar😂 ..canna beat a long length of pipe …does the job thats all that matters 👍👍… was cringing a tad …though the socket bar was gunna ping 😂😂
Ford engines in general are just a joke to do the timing belt on. keyless crank need burning to the floor, its possible for the crank pully to move during the re tightening procedure, not by much but there have been horror stories where the crank pullys been 1/4 of a tooth out and the whole engine has thrown a tantrum because as far as the PCM is concerned its out of time , your saving grace is Peugeot actually made the system WORSE on their version of the 1l engine by having not just a floating crank pully but a floating oil pump pully with NO friction washers. if it aint tight it will slip
Mate been in the motor trade 30 years and have 8 techs working for me , your doing a cracking job well done
Thank you mate 🙏🏻
I respect what you said about people always putting in their 2 cents! We always respond by saying to them "Well let me go to your channel and see how it's done" when they have NOTHING on their channel🤣🤣 you're doing a great job!!!
I have been quoted £700 for my fiesta ecoboost timing belt and tensioner to be replaced.
I walked away thinking " oh yeah they must think I was born yesterday"😀
Having watched this series ,Iam going to run back to them and beg them to take my money 😲👍
Make sure they do the oil pump belt while their at it.
@@bobp6742 Definately change the oil pump belt aswell - Ford charge around £1400+vat so £700 just for the belt is quite cheap. Just done mine a month ago myself for around £600 inc' parts & special tools - oil & filter & a full week warm weather with the engine in situ but this chap has his work cut out & probably take several weeks. The sealey AK629 torque multiplier will easily undo that crank bolt , they cost under £200 as of July 22.
@@richie674
I just used a normal torque wrench and a long 3/4 inch extension on the crank bolt.
@@bobp6742 Yes I used the sealey AK629 (the new model is now 4:1 ratio which supersedes the 3.3:1 ratio) torque multiplier to undo the bolt and like you , used a torque wrench which was a Norbar 400 3/4” drive on a 21mm impact socket up to 300Nm , then 350Nm , then finally 400Nm (well 410 actually) and that tightened with ease as it’s nearly 3ft long .
I mean these engines have clearly been designed not to be worked on by the average DIY person , as this lad has had to extract the block and make do with what he has got , I’m fortunate to have obtained most of the special tools needed to carry out the belts change .
I hope this guy now has his car back on the road as I would like to know what’s happened since this was posted ?
Car : Ford C-Max Zetec 1.0 125 6 speed IB6 2014 64 reg .
I was a motorcycle mechanic for 5 years and recently left the trade but bought an ST150 as a project. It’s coming together and watching your vids is motivating and entertaining at the same time! I thought you were a mechanic before you said you weren’t so you must be pretty competent. Anyway, half the techs I used to work with always used to say that they were winging it!
Nothing but admiration for taking it on. The 'torque multiplier' and engine brace in the hall was genius. A triumph of hope over broken engine adversity. More power to your elbow!
What a comment 😂 I love it, thanks man!
big thanks for taking the time to share your experience with the 1 ltr EcoBust
I’m glad someone has done this and documented it ! Keep it going great watch
You're doing a fantastic job so far. Best detailed video I've seen for ecoboost 1.0 teardown and timing tool use. Any update on part 3 ?
I have the dam issue on the mk8 just about to take the head off hoping it's somthing like the gasket and not anything more serious this help alot thank you 🙏
Need to start working on cars full time mate, your quality of work and attention to detail is top notch
Mend it bend it, that breaker bar has taken some stick 😂😂 quality video mate 👌🏻
😂😂😂😂 new channel name right there
Great video and your right not all of us are mechanics we all learn by watching and listening and if we make a mistake then you learn From it
Exactly mate, there’s been some really helpful people so far so fair play to them but a lot of people don’t seem to grasp that we learn by getting stuck in and having a go 💪🏼
That’s the only way we Learn by shearing knowledge
Really enjoyed watching this series so far, the bracing of the engine was a great idea.
Thank you mate. After. Few attempts I thought it wasn’t going to work but perseverance pays off 💪🏼
Excellent video owned a focus with this engine installed ran very well but now exchanged for a Honda civic. Can't wait for the completion of this engine very interesting and well done for attempting it.
Well done taking on such a complicated little engine
Fantastic video! So refreshing to hear such honesty about learning as you go along, and also retaining the trial-and-error attempts at getting the crankshaft bolt undone - you could've easily edited all that out and jumped straight to the hall-based-clamping-system but no, you kept in the previous attempts that we would've all made even if deep down we knew it probably wouldn't work! I wonder if an impact gun would've helped? I've got an el-cheapo 12v one which really punches above its weight (actually, it's dead heavy and it's also dead slow!) and has managed to undo many a fastening that I could've sworn were welded together. Great work and commentary; thanks for sharing!
My wife's Ecoboost is due a new timing belt next year and whilst I've done a few belts now on other cars I won't be attempting this one... Somewhat nervously I don't want to pay a fortune for someone else to do it so I've decided to take the risk and see how we go. As much as I love her Fiesta I don't think I'd buy another with an Ecoboost in it - great on paper but I'm not impressed with its serviceability.
These videos have persuaded me to buy a 2012 focus ecoboost off a friend for practically scrap value. Can't wait for part 3. Did you save the head ?
Great video mate. Take no notice of people who complain. You'll never learn by shying away from things. Looking forward to seeing you progress with the job and car. Love your torque multiplier 🤣
Thank you mate 🙏🏻 and cheers for all your help, wouldn’t have noticed the damage to the gasket without you 🤜🏻🤛🏻 reckon I could sell my version for the same price as the Ford one? 🤔😂
@@MendItModIt no worries at all. And hahaha maybe maybe mate 🤣🤣
When i saw the engine sliding and you saying "could really use another pair of hands" ... I was thinking. Wtf is Ash 🤣🤣. Great video mate welldone.
Great video again, you always find a DIY solution which makes this channel great! Keep up the great work!
Hi, where you buy special tools for camshaft locking..?
Excellent work! Stop justifying yourself for the work as well. Just nuts and bolts at the end of the day. I done the same on my Focus Rs with a little help from some friends in my garage and that is still running ( just about lol)
Thanks man! Yeah I know I just felt like a disclaimer was in order 😂😂
Well done and loving the series, the only video on TH-cam showing the bolt removal in a diy setting, top marks!. According to Haynes, the new bolt should be tightened 300Nm plus 90deg, might be easier to tighten it finally when in the car
Thank you! I mean it was a bit unorthodox but I got it off 😂 yeah I’ve heard 300 + 90° too so that’s good to hear, and if it’s out of the Haynes manual then even better so thank you for that, that’s a massive help 🙏🏻
300nm plus 90 plus 90 it’s tight, and you need to fit a new washer behind the pully, in the dealer we have the use of a torque multiplyer which makes things easy, do not try to do it in the car as the timing belt will jump
@@nuggetgks I
I did mine in the car using a torque wrench and it's didn't jump 🤔
The only thing you are doing wrong is justifying why you are doing what you are. If people don't like it, they know where the back button is.
🤜🏻🤛🏻 love that mate 😂😂
Excellent content !!!!! Definitely subscribing to this channel. Love his have ago approach. Has the saying goes if it's broke have a go because you can't break something that's broke....😉👍
Yes mate! Nice one, great to have you on board 🚢 and you’re spot on mate why not just have a go 🤜🏻🤛🏻
What size is the Ribe bit used on these
One day Ford will come clean with these engines and admit that fitting a substandard cooling system caused these issues
Great video! Amazing perseverance. Bin wondering about trying something like this myself and this convinced me it’s worth having a go!
Now that ive watched the videos I"m not touching my 1ltr ecoboost!
My only issue was the coolant hose running so close to the oil filter. I managed to nick it with a chain wrench oil filter removal tool!! I shortened it to remove the nick, but now its too close to the filter! I will use extra hose and a joining pipe before the next filter change.
Can one replaces 2013 model of 1.0 with 2018 model of 1.0 ecosport engine
I'm just about to do my ecoboost timing belt got most parts together now. I'm lucky to have a torque wrench that goes up to 700Nm. When it comes to tightening the crankshaft pulley bolt It says in the Haynes manual if using a torque wrench to do the first two steps as instructed by ford then using a torque wrench tighten the bolt to 340Nm then a Further 90 degrees, is that the same info you've been given?
Don't forget the new shim washer between the timing belt pulley and harmonic pulley.
loving the video mate, as always such an inspiration
Thank you mate, as always 🙏🏻😂
Hey bro thanks for the vid. Where is part 3? What happend to the engine?
Any progress? Regarding the head bolts I contacted a tool manufacturer/supplier (AST). Their tech dept said they are Polydrive and that their M10 Ribe bit (AST4426) would do the job. They actually have an engine at their facility to check.
Update. The original bolts in my engine were standard Torx 55. The replacement bolts I used were Ribe M10. Crazy,
Well done for undoing that bolt, it is massive compared to the ST150's. Goes to show, the failure was just little imperfection somewhere and has caused some damage. But fix it and send it... Very brave!
Its the groove in the top of your cylinders. A know weak point on the 4 cylinder ecoboosts and this 3 banger has the same groove. The later 4 cyls have a revised block without this groove - I wonder if the 3 cyls also have this revision.
Hi there, your video is great. I am working on the same car but stumbled on your video a bit too late for me. At minute 6:15 you explain that the flat spots on the camshafts should be lined up. I am having to redo that step. When you are lining it up, the non-shiny surface on both the camshafts have to face downwards--- horizontal to the ground, correct. Thanks!
Yeah that’s it, and the bits with the codes on facing up
Did you establish what size Ribe bit was needed for the head bolts? Hoping not to remove the head but want to be prepared
I haven’t yet sorry, I just undid them with a T50 torx and it worked 🍀 I will get a ribe bit set for the rebuild though
Fair play, you done well there & I love your torque multiplier 💪💪
At last someone else with some common sense, just get it tight 👏👏
Any chance you could show me how you attached it to the engine stand please?
My focus 1.0 ecoboost
I plugged my other diagnostics scanner in and it says this fault is
Power supply fuel pump
Short circuit to positive or open
Intermittent
I ordered a low pressure fuel pump that will sort it i can start the car and rev it up but when let it idle car just dies and if i rev it it will stay running for a couple of minutes with accelerator keot pushed down a bit thanks for your info mate
A great job is done! Waiting for the end of the story. Is that big bolt (that to untight it you were using a pipe) also locking the cambelt wheel?
Think the block might warp if u disassemble, heard it off a buddy working Evans halshaw
Try to check the block isn't warped somehow before rebuild
Yeah I’m gonna get that checked if the head checks out and I decide to continue to rebuild 👍🏻cheers mate
Excellent video. I'm also a diyer. Enjoyed the timber supports lol
I have just hd my wet belt done and pump belt the garage did it without taking the sump off. The looked at the pick up pipe with a mirror and said it was clean car only done 51k but 7 yers old. I still don't trust them as they said all sorts of stuff o yes we took this off that off. And when i inspected it the bolts had not been touched. When confronted they said o yes we did it without taking that off. Charged me £1100 wet belt pump belt seal aux belt. This summer i am planning on taking the sump off to check the pick up pipe myself. Great video let me know if you can see the oil pick up pipe from the side with the sump still on. Great video loved watching it. 🙏🫶👍
Ford blocks had a defect. TSB for Fusion and Escape ecoboost 4 cylinder. The top of your block has grooves cut inbetween the cylinders. The new updated block does not. Huge issue with this engine, coolant leaking into the cylinder. Low coolant and P0301, 302, 303, 0r 304 misfire code. Ford design flaw, see US lawsuit.
Sorry I’m not quite following, are you saying there’s an updated block I can get for this engine?
@@MendItModIt yes, please watch ford 1.5 ecoboost coolant leak p300 code on TH-cam. Some are by Ford mechanics that explain the differences in the top of the block. I would assume you have to order it from Ford.
On TH-cam watch ecoboost 1.5 L short block replace for TSB 20-2100.
Ford 1.5 L old and new engine block
@@williamstorrs6312 this is a 1.0l ecoboost, not a 1.5l pretty sure the 1.5 ecoboost is a 4 cylinder
My engine went boom and your videos are serious motivation to sort mine out. When you put coolant into the tank, did the coolant just completely disappear before you removed the engine ? Also would it crank but not start ?
Great video mate, I'm currently trying to change the head gasket on the same engine as you. I got to the stage where I need to remove the crankshaft bolt but I find it very difficult. I'm using the same 'torque multiplier' as you breaker bar and pipe. Problem is I have broken two breaker bars trying to remove this bolt already haha. What sort of breaker bar did you use and can you recommend anything that might help with the removal of this damn bolt haha. Thanks
Did you find the issue yet? If it was like mine there was a crack in the exhaust port - the pressure test will flag it up
Great work, subbed and liked 👍
Thanks mate, hopefully some new content coming soon 🤞🏻
Good video, I wait to see how your are going to tighten that crank bolt up 😂😂
wait, is the oil pump, belt fed?
Oil pump is belt driven yeah 🙃
What mileage had this engine done
Didn't you think that the reason why there are on 2 port holes in the gasket instead of in all like on the block is because through there the coolant gets out through the cyl head and into the coolant outlet hoses that go out of the engine? That's why only those 2 are needed and it should be that way. You can still always think that perhaps they knew why they this or that😉.
what was wrong with a normal dry timing belt i dont know, would mean engines would last more than 50K and you need to replace the engine preferably a 1.4 froma a fiesta mk6
Sweet! so how do you plan on getting the torque right on the bolt for the crank pulley? I think its like 300 or 400nm torque setting. looking forward to the next video.
No real need to have the bolt lock the pully, a simple keyway would do and then use the cams to adjust the small errors in timing, madness
@@Taz6688 It doesn't have a keyway from stock so it's something you would have to machine in to both the crank and pulley. Then, what torque would you use considering it's now outside of the engineering specs originally used for the motor?
@@troyd-motorsport9933 many Renaults are the same, extremely tight crank bolt as it relies on friction fit, it does not need to be in the past many cars had a keyway and pin to locate the crank pulley, you can use the cams to adjust the timing if needed, no need to both to be keyless, its a daft design, Not done a ford but renault was a pain, tighten up 120nm then 90 degree, no easy quick way to lock the flywheel, just difficult for the sake of it.
What mileage has the engine covered? Great work!
well done that man …wicked vid mike …keep them coming ..😎😎😎…lovin the breaker bar😂 ..canna beat a long length of pipe …does the job thats all that matters 👍👍… was cringing a tad …though the socket bar was gunna ping 😂😂
I was thinking the same! Was literally waiting for it to ping off hard
send it and see my man
Waiting on your next video
Hopefully making some progress on the engine soon 🤞🏻
It's to slow down the water flow, otherwise the thermostat won't work properly
Great video
Awesome work 😃👍 I'm subscribing 😊
Thanks
Do you have that engine in your living room? Lol. Ive had engine parts on the kitchen table many times😂😂
Still they decided to use a belt and not a chain:/
I like ur style
I am inspired by you.
Ford engines in general are just a joke to do the timing belt on. keyless crank need burning to the floor, its possible for the crank pully to move during the re tightening procedure, not by much but there have been horror stories where the crank pullys been 1/4 of a tooth out and the whole engine has thrown a tantrum because as far as the PCM is concerned its out of time , your saving grace is Peugeot actually made the system WORSE on their version of the 1l engine by having not just a floating crank pully but a floating oil pump pully with NO friction washers. if it aint tight it will slip
Subbed
Thank you 🙏🏻
What kind of idiot designs an engine with timing belt INSIDE!!! it should be a chain
2019 onwards they changed to timing chains ⛓
tak for videoen 👍, jeg reparerer også mit vadested. th-cam.com/video/5lhQR8jkUNM/w-d-xo.html