i have 80k hard miles on my 03 XB 9R. Bought, broke in and maintained since new. Still runs as good as ever. I'm going with mine is fine. Even have sent the oil in for analysis with perfect results from beginning to now.
I actually prefer this "older" oil pump, since the newer is an XBRR oil pump. From my understanding, and feel free to coreect me...the XBRR used a hydrodynamic and babbitted journal bearing main, and a one piece cast crank with tiny oil passages to mitigate the "frothy" or air bubbles in oil. Whereas the XB12/9 street Buells use the 5 piece classic Harley Davidson crank, with roller main bearings. Basically the street XB's need high volume low pressure oil circulation, rather than the high pressure needed for journal hydrodynamic main bearings. This was the same issue the Milwakee 8 engines had, until the 2019 revised oil pump supposedly fixed that... somewhat.
Honestly I never thought about the technical advantages of the new pump. I grew up with the old oilpump and if you keep an eye on the drive, they work flawless. I even have on with a 3rd rotor on one of the bikes for a Turbo application. I like them. One of the Cons of the „new“ pump is, that if it was disassembled and hoses disconnected, if the bike is on the side stand started up, the pump is not able to generate enough draft to build up oil pressure. Don’t want to know how many engines got later diagnosed with failures 🙈
hehe...that's not difficult, just...expensive..hehe. thanks a lot your video is so goood if you wanna take care by yourself of your Buell!! ..i wish to have a roadtrip to Sweden whith mine!ciao from Italy! thanks!
I replaced the stock oil pump drive gear with a Buell bronze oil pump drive gear on my 2018 Sportster. I replaced it at just over 12 000km and the stock gear had some slight wear. I really like to rev the bike out and the stock gear was running on the Feuling 505/515 cams, with a Vance and Hines stainless 2-1 upsweep exhaust, Vance and Hines FP3 and S&S tear drop intake. I had the rev limiter set at 6800rpm and the bike worked amazing. Over the winter I added an S&S 1250cc jugs and 10.5:1 S&S forged flat top pistons, Feuling HP+ lifters, Feuling endurance series valve springs, Hammer Performance solid pushrods and replaced the vance and hines 2-1 with a stainless Bassani Road Rage 3 but only because a relplacement V&H pipe wouldn't be available for months. I have already built the front/rear suspension, front/rear brakes, clutch, carbon fiber body panels and plenty of other stuff (I am being vaque because the mod list is long). My next steps involve replacing the FP3 with a thundermax ecm with wideband o2 sensors, having my heads ported/polished with some larger valves, HPI throttle body, Feuling injectors, Buell XB/Harley XR crank with some CP carillio rods and pistons to match the headwork. It's been a fun and easy bike to work on and I am excited to almost have it ready to ride. Long winded post that went off topic, I know lol. What are your thoughts on using the bronze gear on a Sportster?
Nice built 👍 The Buell Performance oilpump drive gear should work fine in your application. Running marks are normal and also they can and will wear if you engine wear pump drives. Always keep an eye on it, but that you anyhow do on a motor like that.
Next Tutorial idea : 1125 flywheel/rotor nut check.... You know, with using a crank locking tool and all ....... I have a sound down there somewhere, so I have to check it soon , so that would be very helpful !
@@NCCRSweden Much appreciated, looking forward to it. I'm gonna need about 15-20 of those gears! lol but seriously, I have 20 buells and I am going to want to do this upgrade on all of them. Except for the 1125's and 1190's of course.
my original oilpump gear was completely worn after 22.000 km and the new berrylium came off after like 10.000 km (due to complete engine rebuilt) and it also has shown some wear! so its true the new gold gear is not perfect at all.
Great tutorial! My '04 XB12S has 44000 miles on it and has caused no problem. Since I was unaware of this oil pump weakness, I've never checked it. May I assume that if it's gone this long without failing that it's not an "eater" and will be fine, or should I check it immediately? Secondly, if an oil and filter change has just recently been done, can the swing arm oil and filter be left in place while performing this service? Thanks again for the informative videos!
Thanks for your feedback. Usually an engine what operated without a problem 44”km on the same owner is not a oil pump drive eater. But it’s always good to have it inspected. Oil is better to be drained and oil filter removed. So it’s recommended to check when you anyhow change oil.
Very informativ! Thanks very much for this video. I want change my oil pump drive gear this wintertime. Can you make a completly video how to change it . I have connection in my country to get an oil pump drive gear which dont destroy off all time. and after this change you dont must check it anymore. (No berylium) best reegards nick
Thanks for your feedback. First of all find out if your bike really eat up oil pump drives. If not, or if the wear is not significant, there is no point to change it. There is a lot of stories and legend Talking about the Problem. We have seen yet none of that „wonder drives“ solving the Problem infinitely. If a motor really eats up drives, it will do the same with any drive or the counter drive on the oil pump might give up. We know not one motor what showed intensive wear what was stopped by an alternative drive, but like the Beryllium it might indeed slow it down. When the next bike for a change comes in, we will see that we produce a video.
Thanks that you like it. Yes, you need to rotate the engine to get the rocker box covers off. That’s necessary to release the tension on the cams by the lifters. Some people say do it under pressure, without lifting the rocker arms. We tried that and it is really messy. We recommend to do it the proper way following the manufacturer instructions.
@@NCCRSweden Thank you Julia and Jens for your kind reply and for the time spent doing these videos. I don't know any good mechanic in Sardinia that I can trust of, its time to get hands dirty. Do I need to lower the whole engine off the bike? First time doing this job on my toy :)
You are welcome Manuel. With the Buells the best is, if you have an amount of base talents, to work yourself in and do it yourself. It always starts by having, reading and understanding the Buell Manufacturer Repair Manual. The money you save, invest in proper tools. You don’t need a “fly to the moon” equipment, just the right. To your question, yes you need to rotate the engine. What mean, you open the engine mounts top/front and, with a jag/lift under, you lower the engine at the front rotating around the rear engine mount point. You must make sure to have the drive belt tension off and also some cables need to be relocated or removed. We recommend to connect this work with other jobs, like the manifold seals. There you find another video about on our channel.
Yes correct. To change the oil pump drive you must remove the cam cover and for that you should get the tension off from the pushrods, what requires to open the the valve covers, what mean to rotate the engine. Yes, we know it can be done without, but we don’t recommend that for a professional job.
Hi, my name is Bright from South Africa. I have a 2005 xb9sx in this country there are really no one who can help with this problem. The bike engine stops while ridding’ it’s stops running at any speed if you have any idea you help will be appreciated. I have spent a lot of money trying to fix this from petrol pump, radiator, oil pump to taking the engine apart and rebuilding. But the mean problem is engine stops while ridding
Hi Bright, that problem we should together be able to fix. Step by step diagnostics are the key to solve a problem like that. Please contact us by email at info@nccr.se and we will discuss the problem.
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i have 80k hard miles on my 03 XB 9R. Bought, broke in and maintained since new. Still runs as good as ever. I'm going with mine is fine.
Even have sent the oil in for analysis with perfect results from beginning to now.
I experienced hands they are super reliable
from Italy a special thanks for this tutorial Vital and very useful, thank you!🙏
Great stuff ! ! ! For sure we need more ! ! ! Especially for the 1125 ......Have a nice summer !!
I actually prefer this "older" oil pump, since the newer is an XBRR oil pump. From my understanding, and feel free to coreect me...the XBRR used a hydrodynamic and babbitted journal bearing main, and a one piece cast crank with tiny oil passages to mitigate the "frothy" or air bubbles in oil. Whereas the XB12/9 street Buells use the 5 piece classic Harley Davidson crank, with roller main bearings. Basically the street XB's need high volume low pressure oil circulation, rather than the high pressure needed for journal hydrodynamic main bearings. This was the same issue the Milwakee 8 engines had, until the 2019 revised oil pump supposedly fixed that... somewhat.
Honestly I never thought about the technical advantages of the new pump. I grew up with the old oilpump and if you keep an eye on the drive, they work flawless. I even have on with a 3rd rotor on one of the bikes for a Turbo application. I like them. One of the Cons of the „new“ pump is, that if it was disassembled and hoses disconnected, if the bike is on the side stand started up, the pump is not able to generate enough draft to build up oil pressure.
Don’t want to know how many engines got later diagnosed with failures 🙈
Good Work!
Thank you for this Tutorial ! Very apreciate :-) would love to see more of it ! Best wishes from BRAP - Buell Riders Austrian Power !!
A great video as always. Many thanks for taking the time to do this for us. Enjoy your weekend! :)
hehe...that's not difficult, just...expensive..hehe. thanks a lot your video is so goood if you wanna take care by yourself of your Buell!! ..i wish to have a roadtrip to Sweden whith mine!ciao from Italy! thanks!
I replaced the stock oil pump drive gear with a Buell bronze oil pump drive gear on my 2018 Sportster. I replaced it at just over 12 000km and the stock gear had some slight wear. I really like to rev the bike out and the stock gear was running on the Feuling 505/515 cams, with a Vance and Hines stainless 2-1 upsweep exhaust, Vance and Hines FP3 and S&S tear drop intake. I had the rev limiter set at 6800rpm and the bike worked amazing. Over the winter I added an S&S 1250cc jugs and 10.5:1 S&S forged flat top pistons, Feuling HP+ lifters, Feuling endurance series valve springs, Hammer Performance solid pushrods and replaced the vance and hines 2-1 with a stainless Bassani Road Rage 3 but only because a relplacement V&H pipe wouldn't be available for months. I have already built the front/rear suspension, front/rear brakes, clutch, carbon fiber body panels and plenty of other stuff (I am being vaque because the mod list is long). My next steps involve replacing the FP3 with a thundermax ecm with wideband o2 sensors, having my heads ported/polished with some larger valves, HPI throttle body, Feuling injectors, Buell XB/Harley XR crank with some CP carillio rods and pistons to match the headwork. It's been a fun and easy bike to work on and I am excited to almost have it ready to ride.
Long winded post that went off topic, I know lol. What are your thoughts on using the bronze gear on a Sportster?
Nice built 👍 The Buell Performance oilpump drive gear should work fine in your application. Running marks are normal and also they can and will wear if you engine wear pump drives. Always keep an eye on it, but that you anyhow do on a motor like that.
Great information! Thanks for sharing.
Next Tutorial idea : 1125 flywheel/rotor nut check.... You know, with using a crank locking tool and all ....... I have a sound down there somewhere, so I have to check it soon , so that would be very helpful !
Nice! Could you also do a video for the actual removal and installation of the new pump gear drive please?
Absolutely Tommy, we sure will make a video about the oil pump drive change when we have the next.
@@NCCRSweden
Much appreciated, looking forward to it. I'm gonna need about 15-20 of those gears! lol
but seriously, I have 20 buells and I am going to want to do this upgrade on all of them. Except for the 1125's and 1190's of course.
@@tommyescobia8381 wow 20 Buell..😦😍
my original oilpump gear was completely worn after 22.000 km and the new berrylium came off after like 10.000 km (due to complete engine rebuilt) and it also has shown some wear! so its true the new gold gear is not perfect at all.
Thanks Patrick for your comment. There is a lot of mystical talk about the golden oil pump drive 😉 unfortunately it does wear too.
Great tutorial! My '04 XB12S has 44000 miles on it and has caused no problem. Since I was unaware of this oil pump weakness, I've never checked it. May I assume that if it's gone this long without failing that it's not an "eater" and will be fine, or should I check it immediately?
Secondly, if an oil and filter change has just recently been done, can the swing arm oil and filter be left in place while performing this service?
Thanks again for the informative videos!
Thanks for your feedback. Usually an engine what operated without a problem 44”km on the same owner is not a oil pump drive eater. But it’s always good to have it inspected. Oil is better to be drained and oil filter removed. So it’s recommended to check when you anyhow change oil.
It’s mls 😉 very unlikely that your engines wear the pump drive, if it still runs on the first.
Can you do a vid on how to change the driver gear if it IS worn?
Will do when the next comes in for changing 👍
@@NCCRSweden ❣️
Hi! Thanks for the video! Where i can buy the gear oil pump? There are only one piece to change? Thank you very much and congrats!
Hammer Performance sells them on their website. That is where I got mine a few months back!
Very informativ! Thanks very much for this video.
I want change my oil pump drive gear this wintertime.
Can you make a completly video how to change it .
I have connection in my country to get an oil pump drive gear which dont destroy off all time.
and after this change you dont must check it anymore. (No berylium)
best reegards nick
Thanks for your feedback. First of all find out if your bike really eat up oil pump drives. If not, or if the wear is not significant, there is no point to change it. There is a lot of stories and legend Talking about the Problem. We have seen yet none of that „wonder drives“ solving the Problem infinitely.
If a motor really eats up drives, it will do the same with any drive or the counter drive on the oil pump might give up. We know not one motor what showed intensive wear what was stopped by an alternative drive, but like the Beryllium it might indeed slow it down.
When the next bike for a change comes in, we will see that we produce a video.
So, I guess you need to lower the engine in order to replace the new gear?
Thank you for your video
Thanks that you like it. Yes, you need to rotate the engine to get the rocker box covers off. That’s necessary to release the tension on the cams by the lifters.
Some people say do it under pressure, without lifting the rocker arms.
We tried that and it is really messy. We recommend to do it the proper way following the manufacturer instructions.
@@NCCRSweden Thank you Julia and Jens for your kind reply and for the time spent doing these videos.
I don't know any good mechanic in Sardinia that I can trust of, its time to get hands dirty.
Do I need to lower the whole engine off the bike? First time doing this job on my toy :)
You are welcome Manuel. With the Buells the best is, if you have an amount of base talents, to work yourself in and do it yourself. It always starts by having, reading and understanding the Buell Manufacturer Repair Manual. The money you save, invest in proper tools. You don’t need a “fly to the moon” equipment, just the right.
To your question, yes you need to rotate the engine. What mean, you open the engine mounts top/front and, with a jag/lift under, you lower the engine at the front rotating around the rear engine mount point. You must make sure to have the drive belt tension off and also some cables need to be relocated or removed. We recommend to connect this work with other jobs, like the manifold seals. There you find another video about on our channel.
Sooo I can check on the wear at home but I cannot change the actuall oil pump drive wheel correct?
Yes correct. To change the oil pump drive you must remove the cam cover and for that you should get the tension off from the pushrods, what requires to open the the valve covers, what mean to rotate the engine. Yes, we know it can be done without, but we don’t recommend that for a professional job.
Hi, my name is Bright from South Africa. I have a 2005 xb9sx in this country there are really no one who can help with this problem. The bike engine stops while ridding’ it’s stops running at any speed if you have any idea you help will be appreciated. I have spent a lot of money trying to fix this from petrol pump, radiator, oil pump to taking the engine apart and rebuilding. But the mean problem is engine stops while ridding
Hi Bright, that problem we should together be able to fix. Step by step diagnostics are the key to solve a problem like that.
Please contact us by email at info@nccr.se and we will discuss the problem.
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