I installed the bronze gear and also a new upgraded oil pump today. Grind lock tool worked perfectly. Did everything exactly as you said, thank you so much for the video. My stock steel gear looks fine but I wanted to put the bronze gear in. Thoroughly enjoying my Hammer 🔨 1275 kit!
What year is your Buell? I'm thinking the XB12X didn't come out until 2006, correct? If that's the case, then you don't need this gear. 2006-2007 Buells already have it, it was factory original equipment. 2008-2010 don't need it due to the redesign of the oil pump and the way it's driven directly off the cams. HD came out with this gear in 2006 after at least 10 years of problems with the steel gear failing in Buell models. Lots and lots of Buell owners had the stock steel gear fail on them, both tubers and XB's. The steel gear is still used in Sportsters to this day, but failures at 65hp are rare. The higher power and higher rpm of the Buell models however made the steel gear fail, which prompted the introduction of this bronze gear. It's a wise upgrade for a guy hopping up a Sportster or a pre-2006 Buell, especially if you're in the cam box for a cam swap anyway.
Hey Dan, great stuff as always. Your videos have given me insight and confidence to work on my motorcycle's clutch, transmission, etc. My 2001 Sportster is a 1200S with a few MILD mods (Vance & Hines, a Dynojet kit and a free-flow air filter); I'm guessing it's worth about 70 ponies. My riding style is not super aggressive but I do ride it hard: how likely is it that I need to swap the gear out for the bronze one? THANK YOU! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Just curious, instead of replacing the oil pump drive gear to eliminate steel on steel, what about replacing the oil pump gear? That way you can just remove the oil pump and swap out the gear and install, instead of removing the cam cover and cams and top end? Just curious 🧐.
My pump’s inner gear cracked and must’ve been hard to turn causing the brass drive gear to shred slivers all over and down into the pump. How come they don’t put a metal screen over the pumps return hole?
Do you need to use a pinion gear puller to remove the gear ? I'm about to order one . I just did your 1275 kit and in the process of doing cams the original gear looks sharp . So im going to order one but wonder about the puller . Thanks !
Hi ..if possible can you tell me how can i diagnose a pump oil not working correctly i supose pressure faillure to head....cause engine is doing to much noise at 950/1000rpm's
I purchased a 120 cubic inch Altima evolution engine sometime ago, and I'm refreshing the motor and found it has a bronze drive gear for the oil pump in it. The spacer that goes in front of the drive gear sits loose where the drive gear will walk back and forth on that key about an eighth of an inch. Is that normal? Or do you have any experience with bronze drive gears on evolution engines? I can't find a builder that has seen one on a big twin. So I'm having trouble understanding why this drive gear floats in there. Any help would be appreciated
The Grindlock-9199 (for 91-99 models) will work on a 4-speed. When we designed and named it, we didn't have a 4-speed in house to test it on, so we did the safe thing and spec'ed it to fit 91-99 models only. But it fits 4-speeds as well.
Thanks for the reply. It did look like the bolts were in the same place. I'll be picking up those parts next month and keeping an eye on that gear. I have a non-stock engine with different valves, cam, valve springs and an S&S bottom end, so checking that gear with the oil pump pulled off would be a smart thing. As you know, what makes Harley great is all the machinists that find a solution to every single flaw. If Harley screws something up, the aftermarket will fix it good.
Well, keep in mind that although the Grindlock tool will work all the way back to 1986, there is no bronze gear available for the splined pinion shaft as used on 86-87 XL's and S&S cranks.
Ok , thanks. The connecting rods are S&S only, not the crank on mine. It was balanced for high rpm, so maybe the oil pump gear will survive. Either way, I'll pick up the gear and tool from you, just in case. A machine shop rebuilt my clutch basket on the XL1200 with a basket added for the magnets and welded the starter ring gear to the clutch basket. Never had a problem with that part since it was done years ago. Another testimony to the after-market and machinists. People would be better off changing out any weak point before it's a problem.
5:55 LOL...Good God if you actually need to call someone to figure out how to mount the pinion gear lock tool... then you probably have no business taking off your cam cover in the first place.
Could not do the repair on my 2005 1200c, without these vids, thanks guys
I've purchased the 1275 set up but haven't had the time to install it this was a great video. Thanks
Nice work dan. Love watching these. Refresher is always good for anyone
I installed the bronze gear and also a new upgraded oil pump today. Grind lock tool worked perfectly. Did everything exactly as you said, thank you so much for the video. My stock steel gear looks fine but I wanted to put the bronze gear in. Thoroughly enjoying my Hammer 🔨 1275 kit!
Thanks. I'm a recent 2005 Buell XB12s owner and this video was very informative.
These videos are extremely helpful!
Great info again Dan. As a fellow sportster racer i love all the info you put out
This is magic! I mean how well all explained and showen!
Great stuff as always dan thanks for the great info
Thank you, awesome informational video!
looks like you put a bit of "hammer performance" into that thumb of yours haha
LOL! I was wondering if anyone would notice! Yep, definitely Hammer Smash!
Great video. I have an XB12X. Must get this done.
I have subscribed.
What year is your Buell? I'm thinking the XB12X didn't come out until 2006, correct? If that's the case, then you don't need this gear. 2006-2007 Buells already have it, it was factory original equipment. 2008-2010 don't need it due to the redesign of the oil pump and the way it's driven directly off the cams.
HD came out with this gear in 2006 after at least 10 years of problems with the steel gear failing in Buell models. Lots and lots of Buell owners had the stock steel gear fail on them, both tubers and XB's. The steel gear is still used in Sportsters to this day, but failures at 65hp are rare. The higher power and higher rpm of the Buell models however made the steel gear fail, which prompted the introduction of this bronze gear. It's a wise upgrade for a guy hopping up a Sportster or a pre-2006 Buell, especially if you're in the cam box for a cam swap anyway.
Great job bro!
Hey Dan, great stuff as always. Your videos have given me insight and confidence to work on my motorcycle's clutch, transmission, etc.
My 2001 Sportster is a 1200S with a few MILD mods (Vance & Hines, a Dynojet kit and a free-flow air filter); I'm guessing it's worth about 70 ponies. My riding style is not super aggressive but I do ride it hard: how likely is it that I need to swap the gear out for the bronze one?
THANK YOU! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
My 05 Ulysses fits the brass drive gear and showing a bit of wear at only 14000 km. Yes, almost brand new bike..
Just curious, instead of replacing the oil pump drive gear to eliminate steel on steel, what about replacing the oil pump gear? That way you can just remove the oil pump and swap out the gear and install, instead of removing the cam cover and cams and top end? Just curious 🧐.
Guys are already at about 500 subs.
My pump’s inner gear cracked and must’ve been hard to turn causing the brass drive gear to shred slivers all over and down into the pump. How come they don’t put a metal screen over the pumps return hole?
I have a 2004 Buell XB12R Firebolt. Where can I buy that tool you make? Thanks
Hi Aaron
You can find it here:
www.hammerperf.com/xlvalvetrain.shtml#grindlock
What about Ironhead engines, they show a locking washer for that nut?
Do you need to use a pinion gear puller to remove the gear ? I'm about to order one . I just did your 1275 kit and in the process of doing cams the original gear looks sharp . So im going to order one but wonder about the puller . Thanks !
Hey, did you have to drop your oil pump to get the bronze gear in?
Can bronze gear last same mileage as steel gear? Less wear but anyway degrades first.
yes, it should last just as long.
Hi ..if possible can you tell me how can i diagnose a pump oil not working correctly i supose pressure faillure to head....cause engine is doing to much noise at 950/1000rpm's
What model motor is mine can't remove outer gear to replace oil pump drive gear
Hi! If i want upgrade the normal oil pump drive gear with the bronze, i have to buy only this piece or there are son kit? Thanks!
I purchased a 120 cubic inch Altima evolution engine sometime ago, and I'm refreshing the motor and found it has a bronze drive gear for the oil pump in it. The spacer that goes in front of the drive gear sits loose where the drive gear will walk back and forth on that key about an eighth of an inch. Is that normal? Or do you have any experience with bronze drive gears on evolution engines? I can't find a builder that has seen one on a big twin. So I'm having trouble understanding why this drive gear floats in there. Any help would be appreciated
It should read Ultima
Just a fffffffff mission trying to find a bronze gear and locking tool here in UK
Part number 26391-06, any dealer should be able to get you one.
@@HAMMERPERFORMANCE thank you.
We know how to bugger things up.
I'm going 1275 with bolt in redshift 575. Do I need this?
What about on an 1989 XL1200. What tool locks the gear?
The Grindlock-9199 (for 91-99 models) will work on a 4-speed. When we designed and named it, we didn't have a 4-speed in house to test it on, so we did the safe thing and spec'ed it to fit 91-99 models only. But it fits 4-speeds as well.
Thanks for the reply. It did look like the bolts were in the same place. I'll be picking up those parts next month and keeping an eye on that gear. I have a non-stock engine with different valves, cam, valve springs and an S&S bottom end, so checking that gear with the oil pump pulled off would be a smart thing. As you know, what makes Harley great is all the machinists that find a solution to every single flaw. If Harley screws something up, the aftermarket will fix it good.
Well, keep in mind that although the Grindlock tool will work all the way back to 1986, there is no bronze gear available for the splined pinion shaft as used on 86-87 XL's and S&S cranks.
Ok , thanks. The connecting rods are S&S only, not the crank on mine. It was balanced for high rpm, so maybe the oil pump gear will survive. Either way, I'll pick up the gear and tool from you, just in case. A machine shop rebuilt my clutch basket on the XL1200 with a basket added for the magnets and welded the starter ring gear to the clutch basket. Never had a problem with that part since it was done years ago. Another testimony to the after-market and machinists. People would be better off changing out any weak point before it's a problem.
5:55 LOL...Good God if you actually need to call someone to figure out how to mount the pinion gear lock tool... then you probably have no business taking off your cam cover in the first place.