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Installed WRONG Parts! Damaged Flywheel! Ford F150
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2023
- Check Out Part 1 HERE! Smoked Clutch & Blown Out U-Joints | OBS Ford F150 • DESTROYED! Stripped St...
Go To Part 2 Metal on Metal Clutch! Driveshaft falling out OBS Ford F150 300-6 • Metal on Metal Clutch!...
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I found your comment interesting that most mechanics would not attempt U-Joint replacement, If I had a mechanic who thought a U-joint replacement was beyond his capability I'd be looking for a better mechanic. It was a real pita in a rust belt vehicle where I grew up but not rocket science. It was a necessity of life for young kids who drove old cars (that they could afford). Specialty tools included a carpenters hammer, a piece of water pipe, dad's C-clamp, and an extended word vocabulary.
When I was a kid replacing the u joints in a 1975 Jeep CJ5, it was a hammer and a couple old sockets.
Triumph Spitfire, '63 model, in February 1972, Washington DC area. Replaced all 6 totally wasted U-joints in a parking lot, with hand tools and original jack.
modern u-joints and the lubes in them are sufficiently durable that it really doesn't come up much - and most manufacturers are now making "non-serviceable" driveshafts with the u-joints staked in place and no easy service parts available, and tell you to replace the entire driveshaft as an assembly (though you can still do it if you know where to get u-joints specially configured to replace staked units).
Yep a shop that won’t change a u-joint is not a shop at all. They are everyday things in the working of a shop that works on trucks and SUV’s. Have changed many without even removing the driveshaft. Just slide under with a hammer and a clamp and a pair of pliers
Exactly what I was thinking, I've been changing u-joints since I was a young teenager. When he said that I immediately went to the comments.
been turning wrenches for nearly 40 years and never, ever heard it referred to as a clutch basket. Always heard it called the pressure plate.
every job is a basket case.
@@forgetfulme1719for some people 😅 when you work on cars an trucks it just part of the job. It is all in the way you approach each one 😮
@@rprice7670 installing pressure plate without dowel pins, his clutch job will vibrate like a basket at high rpm.
@@forgetfulme1719 yeah I noticed that also an have done many clutch jobs with out them. The bolts that are used have a shoulder on them the line up the pressure plate. I also tourqe the flywheel bolts an pressure plate. I have seen to many clutch jobs that will chatter from not doing it.
I would not put up with anyone in my shop not doing so as a shop owner. It is to easy to just do things right especially when bolting things to the crank of an engine. If you like entertaining people like he does then he does a good job.😁😅
Plenty of terms are region specific or even car specific. When I got my first American car (Chevy SS), perusing forums for this car were like people speaking a different language.
After 40 years as a mechanic, I have learned that the trick to changing u-joints is to push the first cup well past its correct depth so you can engage the needle bearings of the second cup onto the shaft before starting to press it in. (This keeps those bearings from falling out of place, as happened in the earlier video.) Then you can press everything to the correct position.
Years ago I pulled my father-in-law's car upon the curb so I could craw under it and pulled the drive shaft and replaced both U-Joints. Used sockets and a hammer. Was not too hard and he was a happy man.
It's good to see a mechanic working for the customers pocket than throwing the parts cannon for what my be wrong, Ray is a mechanic who repairs not just replaces parts ,very hard to come by in mechanics these days 👍🏻🇬🇧 .
So very true it's hard to come by a good mechanic that's honest
That's how you build a customer base👍🏼
Especially in a "word of mouth" community 👍
This mechanic unit is a good one 😊
As a recently former 93 Ford f-150 owner ( I miss that truck ) I can say that it fought me everytime I had to work on it , it must be an old Ford thing to fight back when worked on lol
Hello Ray, I just graduated from community college in automotive technology I started watching about a couple years ago and I just want to thank you for spreading your knowledge of the automotive world with all of us and you inspire me to do my best when I get into the automotive world thank you for everything you do.
We used to call the clutch basket a pressure plate. You should always replace the throw out bearing when replacing a clutch. The part cost is greatly superceded by the labor cost to replace it later
ALWAYS LUBRICATE GEARBOX INPUT SHAFT SPLINES! When Ray demonstrated the clutch prior to replacement it sounded like it was grating, release bearing grinding on input splines, still will!!!
Yes. It's also recommended to replace those concentric slave cylinders because if they leak, you got another trans pull job, and maybe a new clutch plate to fork out for as well. Input shaft splines also do need to be LIGHTLY greased. Don't want the clutch getting bound up on them, and don't want a bunch of grease slinging everywhere either.
The ‘throw out’ bearing is actually a clutch release bearing but probably been called the former by mechanics for decades.
I came here just to mention no grease on the input shaft... anything internal of the gearbox area you want to double check just to save you the hastle of having to remove box to rectify. Ask is how i know lol
@@GReaper I was surprised Ray did not replace the throw out bearing as most are worn out or soon will be with a new clutch assembly. I know He is trying to save the owner money, but the cost of the bearing is nothing compared to a transmission pull and have to replace the bearing anyway.
The issues Ray is having on this Ford, makes me some what feel better about the issues I have working on my truck. Simple jobs turn into unbelievable aggravating! Love the videos! Hope everyone has a great rest of the week.
I always feel the same way. Don't feel so bad when I see the pro have some of the same problems. Rays problem fixing tool selection is way better than my problem fixing tools though lol. He really is good at what he does.
Wouldn't call that a simple job, an alternator or brakes are simple jobs, that job is complex and easy to screw up..
Yea, I have an '88, similar, some extra difficulties to to 4x4, but I can foresee all the issues here. Once you have done everything once, it's not bad, but the first time is a real pain.
Plus you get to make your own little mods to make things easier, like cutting down the bolts that fit under the exhaust. I've learned the hard way to always clean threads and put back parts as if I am going to have to re-do the job.
It's a man made MACHINE...........made my men of parts manufactured by people.
Want ease of assembly? Buy a Leggo Car.
This is the only way I ever changed one
Rainman, I give you 100% on doing the u-joint in the vice. Back in my day that is all we had! End result "got her done"!✌
I had a C-clamp, hammer,& a socket on the street.
@@michaelpressman7203that is how I did it to. Took me about an hour but that's what I had to work with.
I have always changed my own u-joints over the years. When you don't have money to pay a shop you learn on your own, and now save money!
protip to bleed ford hydraulic clutches - put a vacuum on the reservoir and pull the air out of the slave cylinder. It cuts down the amount time you need to pump the pedal.
The correct term for the "basket" is "Pressure Plate". Also, I agree with @no1froggy that the Throw-out Bearing should have been replaced while you had the transmission out.
I would have put a tiny "smhear" of a good wheel bearing grease on the trans spline.
Food basket
And use the metal body slave cylinders, the plastic ones are junk.
@@2pugman Minimal use of never seize is better than grease.
The pressure plate is the cast iron part, the sheet metal part is the clutch cover, the whole thing is a clutch cover assembly!
“I love the welder” 😂😂 Ej20 Subaru engine laughing at Ray in the corner 😂
CONGRATULATIONS RAY AND TEAM! It's very nice to be recognized by BG for doing a great job, technician of the month). We all appreciate the excellent videos as well. You ROCK!
I was stunned Ray kept the throw-out bearing, its not a deal breaker price wise even for a broke ass like me! Love ya bro.
I am not normally the one to criticise but I would have certainly changed the thrust (throw out) bearing, the damn things are mainly plastic these days & normally fail before the clutch itself so the old ones life is certainly nearing it's end.
Expense on an old vehicle. Ray said in one of the earlier videos it looked to have been done before, and that is a concentric slave not a traditional one so more than a few bucks. And the prop shaft- well it will be so much better than what was on there regardless, and of all the joints I have changed in over 30 years I’ve only had to have a couple balanced after.
In a perfect world I would have replaced it too....but almost everything you do to this vehicle you are running up against spending more than the truck is worth
@@nigelbarton8350 They are about $50 or so at Rock Auto. I had to replace one that failed one frigid morning, and the clutch was worn down to the rivets, so I didn't feel so bad. Had the replacement fail a couple of years later, but the neighborhood mechanic that did it the first time was no longer doing such heavy repairs so I ended up selling the truck to another neighbor willing to work on it. I fixed it up and drove it for several more years.
I didn't replace a clutch release bearing at the time a clutch plate and pressure plate the next time working on a no clutch situation on the same vehicle the bearing had seized and burnt its way through the pressure plate fingers( all blued up and curled inwards)the actual clutch plate material was fine
So I learnt an expensive lesson
If doing a clutch change replace all three clutch components the clutch plate the pressure plate and the clutch release bearing and checking for the crankshaft oil seal
Are a must !
Are you English thrust bearing ( throw out American way) 💂🏼👍🏻🇬🇧🫖
Another quality repair, I personally would have changed the throw out bearing, it costs more than the bearing to take it back apart to replace it, I understand you were trying to save the customer money but for the small cost I of the part I would have changed it.
Make sure you take care of the wife unit and fix her van.
Loud Troy noise are a good thing. The wrong parts from your supplier is a real pain in the neck. I remember a journeyman that once told, "I don't care how you get it done, as long as it is correct at the end.". You did what you had to do to fix that old Ford. It is a good repair and that is all that matters.
Watching from my hospital bed, Pray and wish for me please Ray
Hey, randomly just stumbled across this. I hope you’re doing well 7 months later! All the best!
I replaced U-Joints in 1960s era vehicles using sockets and a big C clamp to press them out and get the new ones in. I always considered them easy to do. A little fiddly with ensuring the needle bearings stay in place. But a little extra sticky grease keeps them in there.
Me too!
I learned that the hard way when changing out axle & drive shaft U-joints on a rust-belt Triumph Spitfire!
I've changed them out in a parking lot with a hammer and socket also. In the shop I use the vise like he did. I've changed U-joints out in my Semi on the side of the highway, they just aren't that hard unless rusted.
I've replaced dozens of u-joints without air tools.
I've never heard a pressure plate called a basket. Good video. Thanks.
Good job too on the UJ ... Textbook replacement I would say, just how we did it in the 70's and 80's when there was no other choice !!
Upon the transmission reinstallation, I would apply a small dab of high temp grease into the pilot bearing hole (not enough to force out the bearing, just a very small dab). I would also apply a very light coating of the same grease to the transmission input shaft splines and dowel pins.
As a former parts delivery driver, I can attest that whether the part was ordered incorrectly or the supplier sent the wrong parts, it’s a royal pain in the butt.
What? Having to take back the wrong part?
As a former parts counter person and dealership parts manager, I can attest that if you don't verify that the part in the box is the part that's supposed to be there both when you send it out and when it gets returned, you're setting yourself up for an angry customer. "Wrong part in box" is rare with an unopened box, but not impossible; "wrong part in box" when the part comes back is really common. I could go on and on about how that happens, but the bottom line is that you just have to know your product and double-check everything.
I would also replace that core ("freeze") plug while the flywheel is elsewhere. "Inexpensive today, very expensive tomorrow!" I would do it for free, even if the customer would not authorize the work. AND I would install a brass one!
IIRC, there's two clutches that will bolt up to the flywheel. Don't know what the difference is; I ordered the big one, 'cause "more clutch, more better."
@@Nighterlev Then I must have guessed right, LOL. It bolted right up.
You need a parts washer! Also thanks for the view of the transmission shaft being inserted into the clutch. Great shot!
This is the first time ive seen this done on TH-cam,for some reason no one has shown so kudos to Ray 🇬🇧👍🏻💂🏼
If I remember correctly he has one somewhere
And a microwave in the office😳
Now it needs a full throttle 18 inch Lift Kit!!😉
Now the troll would have posted about you😏 tossing that tinky ass wrench on the floor
We truly take for granted all the parts, Bolts .Clips,sensors ,fitments , and what it makes to make a vehicle. It's amazing to see all the workings with your videos. Plus all the work it can take to get though the many obstacles of the work intaled.
Congrats on your award Ray, your videos are awesome to the point where I catch myself saying "gravity" when I drop something.
Lol, I remember having to buy a pilot bearing/bushing puller 50 years ago. Necessary for my 1966 GTO. Only $18 then but for my income at the time that was very expensive. Works in a matter of minutes.
There’s not much call for it today since a large percentage of vehicles are automatic. Changed a lot of clutches back then. Nice work Ray.
Back in my day the trans jack was " my arms" i'm so glad i don't do this kinda work anymore except on my own vehicle.
Has got to be frustrating to keep receiving wrong parts and not having the right tools. I know you said that you had loaned a clearing removal tool to somebody and it was never returned. I know there are mechanics, techs, electricians, carpenters, etc who will chop a person’s hands off if you touch their tools let alone lending them out. But you seem to be a good hearted person and will accommodate somebody in need.
This series shows a man living his best life and loving his job. Not an ounce of frustration or anger in his voice. I am a new fan!
The other day, here in the great rusty north, the Subaru dealership I was at for a recall, had a HUGE swamp cooler. It was almost the size of the entire garage door. Made me think of you in florida where I could see you guys using it.
Old school taught do it yourself method of U Joint replacement on the side of the road or drive way . Use a socket ( a deep well socket works much better ) to hammer out caps , I learned it from my dad in the early 70s as a kid . It came in handy a couple three times in my life .
If you stick the pilot bearing in the freezer for about five minutes, it'll slide right in. The same goes for anything that pressure fits from the outside diameter.
"Technique not applicable in Florida, Arizona, or six inches from the sun."
@@SportFury1966 You mean "read the legal mumbo jumbo". Some restrictions apply, not valid in some states?
Yeah I remember my instructor who got all of us to rebuild echo gt225 or gt223 curved trimmers engines. That was fun I don't remember how I done it man I do miss that class.
Yes- very common. Look up Abom the use liquid nitrogen or dry ice to fit some interference fit parts.
Or use the engineers claw hammer 🤣🤣🤣
Ray, as a viewer, I and others no doubt appreciate your great camera work and mechanic’s eye view! As usual a interesting video!
Over the Pond in Liverpool UK this 64 year old was taught how to change our own clutch and do most repairs ourselves by my Dad way back when i was a 5 year old, Funny thing is my Dad called almost everything by different name to the USA 🇺🇸. He called the Basket the Pressure plate the Clutch was the Friction plate and what you Guy's and Girl's call the throw out bearing we were taught its a thrust or Clutch release bearing, we call the Trans the gearbox and the part in front of the gearbox is the Bell housing.
Definitely feel for you Ray with the wrong part's and the truck fighting you at every stage.
Good job very well done 👏 👍👍👍
Ray gets the job done & on the road again. Ray. u have to love keyboard am chair mechanics 🤓🤓
rainman i didn't know it was unusual to do universal joints that one went smooth your commentaries are good you are a teacher i trie to comment for the algorithm every man needs to watch and learn the tricks
Love your videos! But when you say clutch pack and basket it sounds like you're working on a motorcycle 😂. Keep up the good work and the good humor. Always get a few good laughs!
Always always always replace the throw out bearing with a new clutch!!!
I usually put a smaller socket that goes inside the yokes and still gives view of the clip trace but not so small it just pusches the center of the cup and press the cups inside with the vice, this way you can move it to the exact level where the clip can be installed, to not make it too tight!
I had to replace a rear u-joint on my '73 Plymouth Voyager on the side of the road. The joint broke apart while driving home. Was a great first time learning experience with limited tools and in the rain. Luckily there was an auto parts store close by.
Ray, I believe you are doing the right approach to repairs. There is no 'one way' to do things, improvising is compulsory and remember, every problem is just a challenge. My favourite moto (Geoff's) moto. It puts life's problems into perspective. Keep up the great work.
Only criticism Ray is I'd of replaced that throw out bearing as it's an internal slave cylinder while in there. As a brit will call the the clutch basket a pressure plate. I did this job a few months back on my ford mondeo st220 but had a duel mass flywheel instead of a solid plate flywheel.
For sure you should have replaced the old hydraulic throw out bearing. Also, when pressing in the caps of the new u-joints, I just use a socket that is slightly smaller than the cap diameter so that tool alignment does not have to be so precise.
Unless it was replaced very recently, it could save a lot of aggravation.
I bet that’s the best that F150 has driven in a long time! We had four of these on the ranch I grew up on as a kid, various years. The 300 is probably the best motor Ford built and a stick shift means you’re not sitting in a penalty box. Great trucks and easy to wrench on… until they aren’t.
Hopefully Wife Unit is okay.
"Blue Towel Action" Gotta love it. I'm a Surgical Tech. Been working in Labor & Delivery for nearly 21 years now. I set up and assist with C-sections (I say all this because I'm proud of what I do). We have a sterile version of Blue Towels. They are exceedingly useful. I roll some to keep my instruments handy, and the others I use to cover and protect portions of my sterile field. Gotta care for the tools we use. And I also use them like you do, to clean up. Not grease though.
Ray, you did the U Joints exactly like we teach in HS Auto Tech class. We stress that you're careful not putting any Pressure on the drive shaft at any time. Only use forces on the U Joints and holders.
As a retired master tech/service manager, curious why your shop doesn't invest in reusable spray containers and 55 gal drums of cleansing agent (enviro friendly) seeing as how many cans of spray you use.Also, I never see a parts washer station which I found incredibly useful. This is NOT a condemnation post...I always just I found it a lot more econ friendly AND less expensive to employ the reusable cans . I like the "work arounds" you do, reminds me of 30 years of complications and the numerous amounts of tools I had to fashion for particular jobs. Always a fly-in-the-ointment for a supposedly straight forward repairs. Great videos and enjoy watching someone ELSE work for once...Thanks for your efforts.
Not sure about Florida, but I believe I remember Eric O. mentioning how many rules, regulations and fees go along with parts washers today. Apparently spray cans skirt all those laws, which makes the trouble and expense worth it.
I own a shop an work on cars an trucks now for 45yrs an have always had a parts washer an own it also. There is no reason to go through that much cost on brake cleaner.
No new thrust bearing to save costs that's a choice I wouldn't make but great piece of work again! 🔧🔧
Ray, you brought back some painful memories. Back in 1998, I had to change the clutch out on my 88 F150 300-6 2wd truck. The only difference, I was 18, not many tools, very little knowledge, and a couple of Jack stands on a gravel parking lot. Oh, and it was a Wisconsin truck, so the extra rust was a nice bonus to learn on. It took me a week of being soaked in trans oil and clutch material, countless trips to the auto parts store 15 miles away trying to figure out which clutch kit, u joints, and other misc items I needed to do the job.
In the end I was successful and got many many many more miles out of the truck, but eventually sold it due to the amount of rust and failing parts. I wish I could get that Crap-Can back.
I would have changed that clutch release barring, there only a few bucks and it's a false economy not to change them , nothing worse than a few months later having to change them because they fail. Same as the propshaft a remanufactured would have been the route I would have taken because it would have be balanced, it possible the old UJ's failed because of vibration in the propshaft
They usually come with the clutch kit anyway. At least every clutch kit I buy always has one.
@@jtjones4727 standard practice kit but he bought without bearing, more profit.
To add to what you said about U-joint replacement, when I was first shown how to replace, I was told by a good mechanic “ this is my way”, do it the way you like, and whatever it takes to get it done. Here’s want needs to happen, don’t damage the yoke or parts and when it’s right, it’s done. U-joints used to be a normal wear item on some types of rides.
Back in 1990 I had a Ford pickup truck, I don't remember the year but it was so old it didn't have anti-pollution junk on it. It had a 302 engine with a manual transmission and a clutch. The throwout bearing apparently got worn out was starting to chatter so I took the truck and parked it on the street with two tires up on the curb and the other tires on the street. There was a little bit of a dip underneath and I was able to crawl underneath the truck and using a 2X4, I lowered the transmission down onto my chest and then rolled it to the side. Then I set cross-legged Indian style where the transmission had been and used a hammer and chisel to chip out the throwout bearing. I didn't have all the proper tools at the time. But I got it out got the new throw out bearing put in. The clutch plate and pressure plate were all still in good condition so I put them back on , aligned it installed it in reverse process with the transmission. Used a cinderblock to hold the end up and bolted in place. Needless to say it's not the way you do it Ray, but I got it done the best way I could. Money was tight. All I bought was the throwout bearing, cost about $10. But it all worked fine afterwards, so I guess that's what matters. This thing had a three on the tree shifting stick. You know the shifter on the steering wheel with linkage. That thing disintegrated on me so I got me a Sawzall and cut a hole in the hump on the floor and installed an aftermarket shifter. Took a little while to get the adjusting right but I finally got it working too. It's amazing what you can do when you try.
Using the welder to remove the pilot bearing takes me back. I did that many times over the years to remove outer bearing races. Not many people know that it shrinks the race making it easier to remove. Good stuff.
A quick way to remove the pilot bearing is to fill the centre with heavy grease then push in either an old spigot shaft or a clutch plate alighning tool and give it a serious clout with a large hammer. Well thats how I used to do them and it always worked. 🙂
Nothing like hydraulics to do the work !
Agree. Our Ray is getting a bit over confident with that welder whereas a wee heat with a torch would do the same thing.
When they were bronze bushings it was common to thread a fitting with a grease nipple into it and 'drive' it out with a grease gun.
he alluded to the old fashioned time honored way namely fill the bearing hole with bread and use a 1/2 in wood dowel wrapped with electrical tape as needed to make a tight fit in the bearing whole and hit it with a hammer compressing the bread and pushing more bread in as needed until the bearing pops out. usually only piece of bread is needed
A quick way is to have the right tool. That is probably 1 over the first tools I owned an still have 40yrs later an would make short work for removing. Lmao
Yes,I remember many trips back to the parts house to get the correct part. I didn't use an air chisel to replace u joints but I used a bench vise and a socket to press them out and in.
Im nearly a fully qualified machanic after looking at your videos ray, you show step by step detail how you do all your jobs. Well done your a inspiration to all who want to learn. well i have learned so much off you. Thank you.
You know Shit is getting real when you gotta Weld The pilot bearing To get it out To replace It with a new one because old one was to brital nice Work Ray 12:24 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
There's a nice pilot bearing puller set from Snap-on.
It has attachments for different ones.
Its alot smaller.
Comes in a beauty of a red box.
Sure wish i had mine.
Your solution was genius.
Youre saying flex plate for the flywheel ring-gear.
But you know a flexplate is used with an automatic.
Its welded.
They make a distinctive sound when fired at us, sir, they crack when theyve begun to fail , but hardly ever failed on a Ford when men were men.
Universals are a simple job to a real tech.
But newer lighter construction driveshafts may be available for replacing as an assembly, and not serviced in separate pieces.
Trained monkeys can just skip the whole universal benchwork job when its like that.
Somebody mentioned that Eric O. wouldn't have done it that way. I watch and enjoy both of you two. If most people watch these they are hoping to get tips. I like it if you both do the same job differently, getting the same results. I do now have my son and wife watching your videos. Just love the commentary. Keep up the good work. Don't let the naysayers get to you. Have a good day.
What's funny about the Eric O. comment is that the commenter probably doesn't watch Eric channel too closely. Yes Eric and Ray are two different mechanics with different methods, but Eric does state numerous times over the course of different videos about going caveman on on vehicle when necessary and some videos with parts edited out for flying tools and such. So I don't think he'd cringe over the way Ray performs his work.
Just food for thought where I would cringe would be watching surgeries where the tools that they use look like they came out of your toolbox, and watching the surgeon setting a rod into someone leg bone with a hammer pouncing away or setting a shoulder and a couple of doctors and nurses standing on the bed, yanking on the person's arm in directions the arm shouldn't go trying to set the shoulder. Now that's cringe worthy.
@drivingnewengland-thedrive We were watching a show about a remote hospital in Russia. Poorly funded but good doctors. Surgeon was using a Dewalt battery drill to drill a hole in patients skull.
I remember back in the seventies a mechanic showed me a trick that if you pack the bushing hole with bearing grease and press a spindle shaft into
the grease packed hole, the grease will push out the brass bushing without needing any special puller tool.
Ray ; When I watched this one I could feel your pain the your joy when that truck was ready (almost) to get backed out the door . I started apprenticing on large trucks and heavy equipment in 1980 . Moved to lighter work at a Ford shop , then even lighter at a Honda motorcycle / Polaris snowmobile shop . Finish off and retired in 2014 as an industrial mechanic working in water and waste water plants for the town I live in . It's not all glamour wrenching for a living brother . It gets tough on the body and the mind after 34 years .🤘
Old dude here. Love your videos first thing in the morning. Wife unit videos are great as well. Thanks for posting.
You deserved the pilot bushing battle after how easy that rear main seal came out lol
It's always something lol, can't ever have it easy 😭
@@Calow727 I just discovered that cars falls apart faster than you can mend them, my 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe has separated the front upper strut bearings while parked on jackstands, even without the wheels attached. I changed the lower arms last summer and have other things to do in the rear, thought I'd put some protecting undercarriage sealant on them, but too many things came along in between. It has pulled the rubber apart totally, on both sides! 😮💨 Oh well, new ones ordered! I kid you not, if i fix one thing on a car, two new problems shows up, it is one step forward and two steps back, I'm fed up with cars!
The place that really needed a copious amount of Brake clean was the back of the oil pan, the only spot that you didn't hit. I've done practically all of my driveshaft U-joints with a vice and socket/ hammer combo, and never had a problem. Just ignore the naysayers. LoL Good job Mr. Rain!
Ray is learning why one should ALWAYS use the flat-rate (Chilton?) time when estimating lablor. There will be jobs where you make good money and there will be those that eat your lunch. It all balances out in the long run, but one needs to be able to make up for those jobs that refuse to cooperate for whatever reason (rust, special tools, broken bolts, etc.).
BTW, WHENEVER odrering clutch and/or flywheel parts for manual transmissions, ALWAYS measure the diameter of the clutch disc. (I learned that early in my wrench bending years.)
A very light coating of grease on the input shaft may have been a good idea.
Absolutely agree - high temp grease. It comes with all clutch kits supplied in Australia.
And pack the pilot bearing. No need to have it seize up, and ruined the job.
@@raymondniven5281they make a release bearing where do have to replace the slave cylinder. Plus it is not very hard to remove an repack it also. I have done some with the old wheel bearing packers. But each to there own. Possibly a come back an don't see getting the life out of the clutch if you did a bearing.
Ray must have an awesome junk drawer of all the left over parts and hardware.
A well-stocked junk drawer or box can be a lifesaver. 😉
The way I've removed spigot bearings in the past is to pack some grease into the bearing hole and place a spigot or piece of round steel rod of similar size into the hole and whack the spigot or piece of rod with a hammer until the pressure forces the spigot bearing out of crank centre.
I have used Freeze Spray (Amazon) to chill a pilot bearing and then pull it with a puller. Works about half the time.
Agreed with everything except not replacing the throwout bearing. If the customer says no is one thing but other than that it's getting replaced.
In a year when the throw out bearing fails he gets to charge the customer twice instead of replacing all the wear parts the first time.
Exactly!
@@chodkowski01 he usually does things 2x, double incomes guarantee, film the owner's decline?
absolutely replace all 4 clutch components together
@chodkowski01 One, I think he has had enough of that truck. Two given its age who know how long it might last. There are plenty of other things that could and will give wrong if it lasts.
Very frustrating job, Ray. You handled it all very well. 👌I hope the van repair is simple and quick! Have a great evening!
Educational and funny. 😂 Bob Ross moment 😂 seals and trees, both of them happy 😂. Genius!
Congrates on your award Ray....you earned that with blood and sweat my friend.
Cost effective or not according to budget, I would have replaced the throw out bearing. Especially after seeing the condition of the disc, pressure plate (abnormal wear on the diaphragm fingers) and especially the pilot bearing. Nothing worse than a noisy throw out bearing in the time and mileage ahead. I believe it is safer that way. All in all as stated in my earlier post in this thread good job.
owner does not have $70 more? $1200 gone to mechanic's bank already.
I agree. Not replacing the throwout bearing is the wrong place to save money.
@@forgetfulme1719 imagine the throw out bearing going out in a months or even three months time. A frozen bearing will most likely go right through the diaphragm in the new pressure plate. How much will that cost to replace? Ask me how I know.
@@tomcrotty1498 u see outside previously fixed cars growing like sealer lot. sad.
@@tomcrotty1498 parts not much, paying him 2x is expensive.
Hope the wife unit didn't have to wait too long and you were able to get her back on the road quickly and safely.
I’m sure the husband unit gave his wife unit the keys to his transportation if it wasn’t something that could be fixed quickly
This video inspires so many comments. "this truck fought me". Welcome to my world. A single truck fought me for months. I even had to change the entire rear end because parts were not available for the original brakes. Then there are all the drum brakes I do. Kinda like you said about the U-joints. Some guys won't even do them. I also use a flapper on my drill to clean things up when I do U-joints. Then there are all the wrong parts we get. The rusted and seized parts. Things that break when you try to take them apart. You make it look easy. Most of the Ford trucks I have seen have dents in the floor boards directly above the cross-member bolts. Pretty easy to figure out why. Carry on.
Ray, the best way to get the spigot bearing out is to pack the hole with grease and then with something that just fits the hole, metal of wooden doweling. Hit with a hammer and the bearing is jacked out hydraulically.
I do like your videos especially the fault-finding ones, bit more suspense.
The best way is to buy the tool that works 😂
Ray, you've gotta be more careful with that hammer. You almost hit me in the face with it
old seal makes a good driver to install the new seal
@@ghiahzzzz1891 It does. But that doesn't negate the fact that my face almost got touched by the plasticy bits of the hammer
Ford was notorious for having 2 to 4 parts listed in the old paper part catalogues for each model and year. Some were to different build specs and some parts were problem changes made through the year. Most of the info is only in the old catalogues that hadn't been digitalized last time I looked. The younger parts people are pretty much lost if it isn't on the computer and it is rare for them to even have the paper catalogues ( with different abbreviated notations for them to learn ) for these old vehicles. I always brought the old part in to play the match game on the parts counter back in the day.
You forgot to mention Canadian Ford parts! For some reason,those parts are different alot of the time.I have seen Crown Vic body parts that were actually longer(hood) drove us nuts why it wouldnt fit!
Id like to see you breakin /burnish the new clutch set
Thank you Sir. Always enjoy your time on this repair videos.
Bread for the win for pilot bearings 😂, I have used the bread method personally and can say it works surprisingly well.
I used to always designate Spicer solid joints for replacements. I noticed that, even though the joints you used were non-greaseable, they were still hollow. The Spicer solids are much stronger because they don't have the grease passages running through them..
Good info! I think I'll go for the hollow ones anyway. My clutch-popping days @ 6000 rpm are over.
@@jeffryblackmon4846 Mine are too.. But... That is, I believe Ray said, is a heavy duty clutch set. If that truck works for a living.... So many people buy trucks today as a status symbol, and the hollows are ok for the light work. But if that truck does heavy stuff like Ray's Chevy does, I think he said it was a 3/4 ton, I would have gone with the solids myself. But since I don't have need for a truck anymore, I would STILL bring my car to him for a new clutch... From 1300 miles away... LOL! Most of the Mechs in NY are Shysters, with exception of Eric O. @SouthMainAuto, and he is 3 hours away from me.
I was thinking Ray would have grabbed the other universal with missing parts to use the grease fittings and then transferred over the caps and clips to that one
@@danlevesque5437
Each one of those caps is actually custom ground to within a tenth of 1000. We call them tenths in the machining world. The directions in the box explicitly state to number and keep all caps in order. Mix matching components with inferior tolerance is a sure bet for a failure. I didn't pick you out in particular you just had a great statement to answer that I believe is a misnomer. Buying universal joints at O'Reilly's is like letting Helen Keller pick your parts.
@@robertburtcher6724 tenths or thou's.
Once upon a time, all vehicles were rear wheel drive.
All back yard mechanics changed up joints with c-clamps.
We did not have tools or internet.
That was fun.
I'm a back yard mechanic, Own two trucks a 2000 Ford Ranger and a 2000 Ford-250 with the 7.3 powerstroke and do all my own work. I have the internet so it's made it worlds easier than buying a book and going off of that, Although I do have the book you buy at auto-parts for my truck that tells you how to do everything. I'm young just decided growing up I wanted to learn and started doing all the work that needed to be done on my vehicles, Now I've done entire engine swaps mostly all self taught and had no problems. Wouldn't want it any other way, Shops are expensive. Replaced the timing cover and water pump on the Ranger recently and it would have been $1200 in labor at a shop and instead I only had to spend $400 for the parts instead of the $1600 for the parts and labor. Going back to no internet and doing it all sounds like an adventure that I'd love.
I've been watching your videos for a long time and I want to say how well you make them. You cover each step completely and accurately with all the necessary bits and pieces to add to the repair. Keep them coming!
You and the Eric O are different. That's the whole point! Who wants to watch two guys doing exactly the same thing? Always learn something new from both of you. Keep it up Ray. All good.
In New Zealand we fill the spigot bearing with grease and use piece of shaft to hydraulic the bearing out.If the shaft is a little small insulation tape wrapped around the shaft can take up the slack
It irritates me when I find myself in a debate with a “my way or the highway” type. Dualistic thinking creates problems, not solutions.
In old timey speak, “there’s many ways to skin a cat.”
@@tonypluymers7429 Ah, yeah. The old "displace bearing with grease" method. But this may not work properly if there is corrosion going on. At least not as well.
To be honest, I was kind of surprised by Rays idea and the fact that it worked so well. ;-) What do they say? If it works, it ain't stupid?
@@ClassBLiving64 2 kinds of viewers, one wants to copy his skills, other (including Eric) to get a good laugh
@@ClassBLiving64 lol. You don’t even understand “there’s a right way and a wrong way” is the very definition of dualistic thinking! LOL! You don’t come here for the parody: you come here to be a douchebag. Go garbage person it up somewhere else, smoothbrain.
At least your screen name is adequate: you’re living as a class b human AKA scumbag.
GOOD WEDNESDAY MORNING RAY AND THE WIFE UNIT! And a LOUD SHOUTOUT to the two new employees! In 1977, I did this same procedure, and it didn’t end well. I thought I did everything right, I did it in my driveway, but when I drove it about 20 miles until the driveshaft flew off the rear of the truck. Luckily it was a 4 wheel drive, so I was able to get back home. I took it to a shop the next day and had it done correctly. I haven’t worked on ANY of my vehicles since. Roger in Pierre South Dakota
Hi, you need to put Airlines to each work bay it would save time.
I have done U Joints on my previous Nissan and Ford Pickups of that era, using just hand tools. They held together ok, but the joint on my 1985 Nissan tended to vibrate at certain speeds. I am sure I bent the yoke a little, but I took it to a shop when it needed a transmission rebuild, and they got that straightened out.
I worked for my uncle in the summer of ‘69 after graduating high school at his Texaco Station. The first job they gave me was replacing a unjoint! In the 1950s & 60s cars this was as common a repair as a brake job! So simple a teenager could do it!
Thanks Ray. Love your videos. Chesterfield Va. -KB
Primative Pete would tell you otherwise, but to save your fingers from the hammer, instead of using the old bearing to drive in the new, use a socket of the proper exterior diameter instead. Your fingers will thank you for it.
You can also use the proper diameter socket to press out the old, and press in the cups on the universal joints as well.
Great work Ray! That was quite an impressive journey, I bet you're glad it is done. That truck should feel like new. Sounds great starting.
Great job great video
Now just to get my truck in the air, I can't crawl under like I use to.
We don't make mistakes , we have only happy accidents! RIP Bob Ross🙏
My take on greaseable u-joints. The average person never greases them once installed and if they do they are over greased pushing the seals open. Yes, non greaseable are stronger like say for 4-WD applications etc. but even for normal non performance applications a non greaseable will stay sealed better and provide an acceptable long service life. IMO
Was ich immer sage Ray ist einfach der BESTE 😊
Good job brother, it would have been OK to see new door pins and bushings installed as well
A blind bearing puller would have gotten that pilot out as one piece but watching you do it the wrong way is more entertaining.
Back in 1977, we swapped out the clutch on a friend of mine's Dodge van in the parking spaces just inside the front gate of Rocky Mountains National Park. We knew the clutch was getting worn, so we had the parts already, and then it blew out completely as we rolled up to the ranger's window. For once, everything went like clockwork, and we had the whole thing done in about half an hour.
I'm calling bull on this one. No way you can remove trans and replace clutch in 30 minutes.