Axle DESTROYED! “Can’t be done” they said! Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi 4x4
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ค. 2023
- Pt 1 Customer States: NO ONE CAN FIND IT! Sand in my Dodge Ram! Replace Whole Unit! 1500 4x4 5.7 hemi • Customer States: NO ON...
Super Secret Hidden Unlisted Video! Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi 4x4 • Ram 1500 Stuck AXLES! ...
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Super Secret Hidden Unlisted Video! Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi 4x4 th-cam.com/video/pRlndO72558/w-d-xo.html
"Gottah lube the nuts to get the shaft to come out of the hole..." Now just imagine saying that in front of 2 dozen 16 year olds back in tech school! 🤣🤣🤣 God only knows how we managed to learn anything back then...
👎 no
I've been wrenching on vehicles since my first car in the '70's. I've done a lot of repairs on raised trucks and broken drive line parts and suspension parts. Making angles too sharp causes a lot of stress on parts.
@@michaelmartin2276 This is exactly why an old friend of mine replaced the U-joint drive line in his lifted '88 F-250 with a custom built shaft using CV-Joints welded into place. Worked great, but replacing the joints cost a fortune....
One should always avoid excessive play on their shaft. If one does experience excessive play I recommend a replacement sleeve immediately. 😅
That awkward moment when: You find yourself watching another mechanic work on your day off...
I had actually felt the sigh of relief when the axle finally came off; in my soul.
Lol
Bro he made it so much harder then it should of been he could have attached a slide hammer to it it would popped right out
Kinda what I thought too, you can power through those C clips with a few heavy blows from a large hammer, rotating the axle at the same time helps too in case the clip is being difficult. This guy was really leaning on his impact hammer. @@g3t0wNeD420
@@g3t0wNeD420 I agree, he made things so much harder for himself, using the wrong tools, loosing the advantage of the correct tool type. Reminds me of one of my apprentices, bull in a china shop!!!!
I am far from being a dodge tech, but when I worked at an independent shop we saw this front axle issue a lot. A local transmission shop patented a replacement stub shaft design to permanently resolve the problem. The new axles and stub shafts are beefed up to withstand more power/abuse. Apparently these were a weak point on these trucks from the factory. Even dealerships in my whole province get axle kits from this transmission shop instead of using OE parts
rick roods transmission? im about to order their kit.
Wow, good for the dealer
Where is it yous order them from if i can ask?
Dealer tech are awful, but OE parts are meant for OE wear and height, but people want to lift their trucks but dont wanna pay, so they get a shop to do what they want not what they need, OE joint wear a million time faster on lifted truck because of the added angle, the bigger the angle the higher the wear, i saw so many 'no no' in that truck, but people dont ever learn till they need a tow truck and even then they want bare minimum ( good business for tow trucks)
Smart man using the correct tools and leverage to make your job easier. Lots of experience and a quality technician. Your the man Ray.
Words to live by: "You can't finger all the nuts." Ray's wisdom never ceases.
As a frequent visitor to South Main Auto I was following up all the times Ray said that word with "deez nutz!" Eric O. for president ;)
I have never had a problem fingering all my nuts, I have kinda shied away from fingering others though!
Ray Ray shoulda simply just consulted my old lady she is an absolute authority on vibrators and vibrations in any single thing she makes it work 4 her...
Along with "Lube your nuts."😂
I used to build off-road vehicles from mild to wild so here is a piece of advice, BE CAREFUL OF LIFT KITS!
Yes, they look cool.
Yes, you can put larger tires on BUT, in most cases lift kits bring nothing but trouble and empty your pockets.
Just sayin!!!
My jeep agrees with you and I only did a3 inch
I've been back and forth over the years wanting to lift my trucks but never did. Can't get over making my new trucks ride like shit and hard to park. Maybe if I lived in the country but no good for city life
The only thing is good is in the photo before destruction.
@@stevenakn1 Here is what happens when people lift their vehicles: 1. The ride becomes stiff and you can actually lose suspension travel. 2. Big tires change the gearing of the vehicle, confuse the computers, change your speedometer and reduce significantly your towing capacity. 4. The only fix is to change the gearing in the front and rear axles (MORE MONEY) 5. Your cool lift puts more STRESS on EVERYTHING especially the automatic transmission etc. So what do I do? First, I invest in good under body armor and rock sliders. Second, I understand the reasonable capabilities of my vehicle and my actual needs. Third, LEARN TO DRIVE off road, and Fourth, if I want to do serious off-roading I have built a vehicle specifically for that purpose (VERY EXPENSIVE).
@@stevenakn1 hell, even in country- lift kits are dumb. They make you too cocky driving- better to stay standard, keep the money from the insurance, and beef up the transmission and engine for going nuts. Or better yet- get a dirt bike/quad if you want to go through super nasty sand n mud.
I was shocked that the pry bar wasn't even considered
Hell, I was expecting some torch action.
He is such a hack
Torch would have been my first choice@@edsyphan3425
Ray thank you for making these videos. Not only are they entertaining, but I've learned a lot about vehicles by watching these!
I’m no mechanic beyond the basics, but just knowing a little bit more about it will help keep you from getting screwed
My old lady can show ya a few things about big vibrators and big vibrations. She's always lookin 4 an edge.. I really was wonder why I ain't replaced her u joints or axles yet...
I had a similar issue like this myself. I used a pickle fork. Once I got it where I wanted it,..... gave it a couple of whacks with a hammer and it popped right out. Now no matter if I replace them on front wheel drives or 4x4's,....... once I have it ready to come out the fork is the first tool I pick up.
Yep honestly most of the time a prybar is all it takes and I'm in the salt belt
As am I,.... southern Indiana.
I think it's the even pressure on the circlip that does the trick. One-sided pressure pushes the circlip in the opposite direction causing it to protrude more and hold tighter.
The spacer comes with the lift kit to extend the front shaft
I feel your pain on that front axle Ray, just did one, it looked about the same as yours, I was about ready to give up and start cutting, but my helper held the axle straight, got my big hammer and had him rotate it between hits, it finaly came out
Big hammer energy! 😂
That spacer is 100% with the lift kit.
At least they went with a kit that lifted the front diff properly
Most kill the front splines on the cv due to excessive angle and destroys the o ring that prevents junk from going in there and causing a vibration
Btw you didn’t put the O ring back in there……
Hey Ray, removing the axles from the diff/tranny can be a real pain sometimes, especially when its a tight fit an there is nothing to pry on. When that happens I get the appropriate size of muffler clamp, and clamp it to the axle hosing, then you can pry on the clamp and it pops out.
Autozone got a loaner tool called the axle popper. Makes its quick and easy to remove those axles.
That truck is CLEAN!
These issues are exactly why Ford High Boy trucks are so popular and expensive. They were factory lifted without the tension problems of trucks that are not designed to be lifted like they were. I am not a fan of many Ford trucks, but the High Boy Ford's were pretty awesome off-road machines. If only I could afford a restored High-Boy:P
The old High Boy, we had a few of those at my place of employment about 30 years ago. Nice looking trucks.
You know it's tight when you feel the unclick in your shoulder joint.
😂😂😂
My surgeon reattached it😢Have a great weekend
Had my tonsils removed Made the Constant Issues with Bronchitis and phenomenon stop happening as well As the constant headaches and ear infections go away hope little Man Feels better soon @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Ray, I have been watching your videos regularly for a very long time. You are such a smart guy. You seem to be able to solve any problem, mechanical, electrical, digital, everything. I am so glad you got your own shop. You are going to grow this to multiple locations with a number of employees. I am thrilled for you and the lovely wife unit that you took this leap.
The irony will happen when Rainman Ray franchising takes over both locations of his past employers.
Thanks for a great job Ray!!! I can now go off-roading with no worries of impending break down. I sure do love my warranty company!!!😊
That cv axle setup is nearly identical to my 2005 jeep liberty. I've replaced it and had it apart for other services. It's been an easy pop with a prybar each time. You may have made that a much harder job than necessary, but I suppose we'll never know. Good work either way.
Wait, you think a pry bar would have popped out what an air hammer couldn't?
@yvanauchterloni5923 proper pressure in the correct place and in the correct direction can sometimes be more effective than beating something in the wrong direction.
Ray, you always brighten my day. I’m not a mechanic, but I’ve learned so much from you!
I like off-roading and I’ve been able to diagnose and repair my 4Runner on many occasions with things I’ve learned watching you.
I really hope to shake your hand one day.
Glad to see you all back and well 😀
Didnt see to the end (yet) but heres a quick tip - you should clean the threads of the 4 bolts that hold the shaft through the spacer, run a threader on the threads through the other side and wash away the old loctite, put fresh loctite on the bolts when re-installing them.
Correct and I notice he never puts loctite on many things that need it, only my opinion as a 30 yr mechanic
....yeah...these should get cleaned up and a dab of thread locker
Ray, there's many a time I've had to resort to the grinder to remove parts. A useful strategy when the part in question is being replaced.
Rain man , the things you i watch you do are making me become a better pro mechanic !!!! thank you so much !!!
Two Ray videos and good coffee on a Saturday morning, life is good 👊👍🤞
am I imagining things or did the boot look split where Ray was holding it back with his thumb at 15:00 ?
I’ve been looking forward to this drive shaft replacement!
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! A MILLION TIMES THANK YOU!!! Had this issue, followed your steps to the tee, and the outcome was precisely what the video just showed. Awesome!
Nice video you solved the problem quickly
Looking forward to this
Good morning Ray, I think you did an excellent job getting that rusted shaft apart. Keep up the good work and say hi to Troy, your wife unit and the rest of your family ✌️. As always stay safe, healthy and American Strong 🇺🇸💪🇺🇸
Well done sir, have done many of these nearly in the exact same way as they NEVER release as designed. Great job teaching the next generation how to work around an issue instead of replacing more parts.
Interesting info. I never knew about the tite bit. Thank you for the great informative videos Ray,Ray
Just went thru the same thing on the same side on my ram 1500...that snap ring inside had broke and nearly seized the half shaft to the stub shaft....after beating the half shaft off the stub shaft (which it was all out of the vehicle and clamped down in a pipe vise by that point) I found that it was the splines on the stub shaft that was bad not the splines in the half shaft
Ray, if I remember correctly those tools for clamping that “CV” boot clamp are called “Otiker” boot pliers. That spelling may be off because I’m going by memory and it’s been years since I’ve actually looked at an OTC catalog OR any other specialty tool catalog that has those pliers in them. Those are cool tools that you don’t hardly need, but WHEN you do they are life safer s.
Once and a while you see individuals who are really great at what they do. You are one of those individuals. Very cool Rain Man Ray.
Splendid work Ray !
I honestly like the style you got over grease fitting for the driveshaft. Stronger off-road then having a tunnel system for grease. Just my opinion.
Reason OEMs use them is that if you actually service/grease it the ones with the fitting will last longer but most of the clueless public never does and the sealed ones have greater longevity when neglected
@@yeahitskimmel they have no choice but to be neglected 😆 I'd rather the option be mine🤷🏽♂️😆
@@carldalsasso8603 Back in late 70's or early 80's Mercedes switched from using u-joints with grease nipples to the sealed version. The interesting part was that the actual U-joint used the exact same tooling, only they didn't drill and tap them for the grease nipple. So the channels for the grease and everything was still there. So what you could do when you had to swap out worn out u-joints was to buy the new version, drill and tap them and screw in a grease nipple. Problem solved...
What irks me with this truck is that you can't just throw in a new u-joint but have to replace the entire axle. Swapping a u-joint is otherwise a quick and easy job.
@@blahorgaslisk7763 Greed lead to Planned obsolescence in order to artificially create a semi dictatable profit projecting time-line.. Today they just adjust tolerance, meteral quality, in some cases like alot of common household appliances just incorporate a time/use degrading fuse. Along with the right to repair, in my opinion we deserve the option of quality over price.
Wow Ray.....need to strap on the bullet proof vest for some of these comments today ! Thanks for taking the time to involve us in your day . I have no skin in your game and don't care how you do it, it's entertaining and that's what I'm after.😊
Thank you very much I did enjoy this video and now I understand and appreciate what mechanics go thru to maintain people's cars.
This is going to be a very good video..............Thanks Ray
Wow! Half shafts can be trouble but that is crazy. Nice work!
that was hard work ray! i dont know why others try to tell you how to do the job..its easy when you are watching..not doing.the way they suggested was the way you attempted it...but the amount of rust build up was preventing to splines to seperate.good work ray!
A few well place hits with a decent hammer is all that is required to knock these off. BEFORE you go off half cocked, it is a job I CAN do pretty much IN MY SLEEP. In other words, I was doing this kind of work frequently. To loosen the rusted ones, I simply knocked the outer part of the CV joint side to side a few times, then knocked the shaft off with the hammer by hitting the diff side of the CV joint.
It would have been better served if you said why do others tell you how to the job "after the fact" . The owner of the truck has probably already burned several tanks of gas by the time this video came out. The rust build up in the slip yokes was due in most part likely caused by the drivelines inability to function properly by adding the aftermarket lift kit, plus no factory install zerk grease fittings
I totally agree with you there are quite a few armchair mechanics giving unsolicited advice. JMO
@@markraday8071 As there are quite a few well trained / experienced armchair mechanics, some with teaching level abilities who are willing to offer good sound advice.
@@IR-nq4qv you said it right "experienced, well trained, professional. Sometimes the way things are written can be a little condescending. I guess I'm Old School. Again just my opinion ✌️👍
Owner Definitely Got The 'Shaft' !
Thanks Ray
You need to lube your pneumatic hammer. It seems to be binding internally
Holy crap at how loud the Alen Screws for the skid plate are clicking on removal 😮 power clicks so you know its on there good @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Great video Ray man
I’m just shocked he didn’t use an axle popper. That tool makes it easier to remove the axle since it’s puts even pressure all around the axle shaft and forces it over the c clip. But overall good job I love your videos. I’m a DIY mechanic for my vehicles lol, I’ve learned a lot. I kinda wanna see a video of the power tools you have.
Axle popper won't help when they are rusted that bad. I speak from experience. The only thing better is a bigger air hammer
I think you made hard work of that front drive shaft. I think a few hits with the hammer while supporting the CV in a neutral position pops them straight off. I could see it wasn’t solid on the shaft because it was moving. If you did damage that intermediate drive shaft you could kiss that front diff goodbye. Everyone has a different way of doing things but always try the the simple stuff first.
I agree. I think the problem he ran into is that he has too much of an angle with using the air hammer so there isn't enough opposite force and it's is just too much "angled" force if that makes sense.
I think that because he was putting his hand by the head of the air hammer as well it caused there to be even more of an angle.
For one thing, if you pause the video at the 24:46 mark, you can see that his air hammer has a very big "head" on it where you put the shank of the different impacts or accessories in. I believe this is a "quick connect/release" head for different air tools. Also, I think that he should have just used the longer flat blade insert that he was using later in the video at the 31:27 mark. But, instead of try to "push" the CV axle out at the smaller part of the shaft right where it connects to the differential shaft, he should have tried to push it at the same point he was trying to hit it with his blunt end earlier in the video where it is larger. This would have been a more "straight on" angle compared to the steeper angle he was taking.
I agree with you that I think a couple hard hammer hits would have likely gotten that axle shaft out. I think if he had a good pry bar that was about 16" to 20" long that had a blunt end on it that he could whack it with that hammer, one or two blows is all it should have taken.
Another thing I noticed is that he used a lot of brake cleaner that was unnecessary and kind of a waste as well. He should have just grabbed a wire wheel brush and cleaned up the splines properly.
And although he did put more than enough grease on the side going onto the intermediate shaft, he didn't put any on the side going into the wheel hub assembly. I always put some on that side as well because you never know if you'll be the next one having to take it apart next time. He way over uses that brake cleaner in my opinion.
Yep! Hand sledge would have popped it off in two blows max..
@@mikef8769 exactly. You & I have probably done that lots of times.
Either way, not Ray's problem. Corrosion & Abuse has rendered parts as salvage .
@@mikef8769agree 100% sledge hammer and pry bar, they come right off, cutting into it with that rinky dink grinder was never needed, I did many many of these
I had been missing that part with the Brakeleen. The sound sells it. Thanks for making my day. 🤠
Excellent fix ray 👍
If you use synthetic boat axle grease it won't wash out like other greases will over time
Wow Ray destroyed axel another outstanding video Ray but the most important thing is to have your self a great day Ray
Got to hate when your splines wear out can be such a Killer Vibe 😂😂 @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Hi Ray, great content as usual.
i’ve done many of these half shafts as you have, mostly on fords, if you face split ring with opening up it will pop over much easier.
Hope your child is doing well, removing tonsils is never really fun.
It's another good repair with your skills.
Customer: You quoted me $700 for parts and Labor!
Mechanic: That's if the job took 2.5 hours like it said in the Labor manual, your Hunk of Junk was Loaded with Rust, it took more than 5 hours, I broke two easy outs, three drill bits and 7 cut off wheels, that's why your bill is $1,100. When you work on your own truck, when you bring me a STOCK truck not full of Rust THEN your bill might be $700. Reality kicks in for the Mechanic all day, Reality kicks in for the customer when the Bill comes Due. As I've said before, Ray, I've been in your shoes. It's a Young man's game, better you than me!
thankyou Ray,and yet more excellent content,,have yourself a great family weekend,,👍👍
Thank you
Unreal. Clever. Fantastic!!!!
I love these family shows. Hi, Wife Unit. Oh, you too Ray.
Micro Rust Belt phenomena!!!
Great work as always Ray
I've dealt with that nightmare before, you did a great job.
Wow I learned something new today with the grinder thanks ray😊
Well done as always.
Yet another great video. I hope the little guy recovers ok.
Thanks!
Love the super secret videos @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I just replaced my front 2010 CV axle, passenger side, after it came loose.
Major Find!
After owning my truck for over a decade, and always having vibration no matter how well the wheels were balanced…it was the front passenger side cv axle that was causing the vibration the whole time. Never a tech suggested looking at or replacing that axle. At 180,000 miles, my truck is finally vibration free.
Props to whoever made those bolts on the skid plate. They are deep enough to actually be useful more than once. So many similar bolts have a shallow cut and end up stripping out.
Good Day to you Sir. We will win. Ty for your excellent detail.
Nice work
Perfect timing. I got done watching part 1 of this like 20 min ago.
One would think, as expensive as Ram trucks are, that the factory could spring for .25 cents in grease for those axles. Great job getting that out.
💯
Great video
Nice to see your boss Ray, you say hi and she says back to work and your like ok 👌. 😂.. We cant live without them 😂
I love how honest you are. At my work we just lost a customer for this exact concern, another tech that has been there forever and probably gets away with some things because of that quoted him the entire front differential, he quoted brakes too and it was about $5500. So the customer goes to another shop they replace the cv axle and snap ring for around $600. I at least try to give my customers opinions
Great work rae. I found myself willing the clip to undo. I'm not a mechanic but remember doing this om my Austin 1100 (uk) back in the day.
Greetings from Germany - like your new Intro :) and it is nice to see that you are doing well with your own garage :D
Hi from the UK,loving the content.
Thanks for sharing this video so everyone can learn. Here's a quick tip on removing and reusing those front driveshaft dust boot clamps. Use a small flat head screw driver that fits in the pinched area of the clamp. Then use a little side to side movement to open the clamp up to release the clamped pressure on the boot. Then use your cv boot clamp pliers to re squeeze the clamp when ready.
Nice job Ray .The right tools will half any job .
Your right sir, my bathroom cleaner also said if you see the foam it's good so I believe you
Love those brake caliper covers!
That's what's nice about having your own shop. Family can come and hang out. Kids can learn something. Good deal.
Very good job bro 👏🏻
I have never been a fan of after market lifts as you can get many problems with them and what a long job you had ,thanks for the video
Nice job Ray
good stuff 👍
Good morning Mr Ray hope y'all have a great day 😁 great job
Things got real when the escalation is a Cut off wheel 😂 gotta love being a mechanic life is never the same on every job @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Dude!! 24:50 I’m at the edge of my set (well… toilet seat right now) with anticipation!! Just wait for that sucker to come out and save you a lot of time.
Nice job
Nice job!
Thanks for being professional. Enjoy the schooling. Always can improve my skills
I like how he Literaly shows Step By step by step
Half brutal job as always nice end result
Cheers from Nova Scotia
Always nice to see some Knipex on this channel! Yes, those are the pliers for that clamp.