With the high cost of vehicle repairs and longer wait times for competent service centers these days, I wanted to share the step-by-step procedure to keep that expensive transmission properly serviced to give it a good chance at a long life. Please share any questions or pointers you may have with other visitors here in the comment section. Thanks for your time and see you on the next one!
Great video, comprehensive, easy to follow and concise. 4x4 Mechanic shop quoted me $525.00 to do this. And the Jeep Dealer said it “is a sealed system and the oil can’t be changed”. Ha ha yeah right.
Yeah lol, that’s highway robbery for this afternoon job with simple tools. I’m surprised the dealer seemed to not want to do it. That’s odd. I’m glad it was helpful and saved you some cash! Thanks for the support👍🏼
I packed all the info and tips in there while I also tried my best to keep it as brief as possible. My goal was to make it beginner friendly too. If the gasket is in good shape and is pliable at the sealing bead, I don’t think anyone will have a problem reusing the one like my transmission has.
Pro Tip... Leave your AC off while the engine is running as you're topping off so that the condensate water doesn't run down the transmission and look like a leak, causing minor panic before you realize that it's just water and that you're an idiot. :)
Oh I’m hoping that switching up my oil viscosity can stave that off for a long time. I’ve been running what’s considered a thick version of 5w-30, Valvoline Extended Protection High Mileage. It’s got a strong additive pack too. Needing to do an oil change the other day and after more research on the BITOG forum, I’ve decided to try the Mobil 1 European Car FS 5w-40. Man! It’s so quiet now! The main thing with the 3.6 rocker failure issue is thermal breakdown. These newer cars need a higher HTHS, high temp high shear rating. Manufacturers’ primary care is to get you past the warranty period. I hope the video helps you out. Have a good one.👍🏼
I have this same transmission in my Grand Cherokee. I also bought the lifetime/unlimited mileage (yep you could get that in 2015) Mopar Warranty. The old mechanic in me knows I should be changing that fluid according to at least ZF's recommendations, but asking several dealers and the warranty place, I kept getting told I had to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for fluid changes or the warranty might be voided should the transmission fails. Of course that recommendation is lifetime fluid, don't change it. I finally decided it's on them if it fails and so be it. I'm now at 200k on original fluid. I've run the hell out of this thing. I've checked the level twice and both times it was still clearish green. Still don't feel good about not changing it, but there are the results I've had anyway. Too many more miles and I'll be at the point the cost of a replacement transmission will exceed the value of the vehicle and the Mopar warranty won't cover it anyway, so I might go ahead and change it soon anyway. BTW no issues at all so far with the transmission on that original fluid other than my nerves.
We had the lifetime on our 15 Grand Cherokee as well. We ended up getting something bigger. If I’d planned to keep it until the wheels fell off, I’d of changed it and there’s no way they could’ve been able to tell. There’s no paint marks, tamper deterrent at all. I’d also not of wanted the hassle of being without my vehicle for to preventative maintenance which ZF themselves recommends under normal, not heavy duty, service. I do understand why you haven’t though. It was a great warranty.
@@odysseyusa Yeah it's too bad you can't get that specific warranty any more, although I never had to use it yet. I've been saving it for something major. I still have the GC and just bought a 2024 Gladiator, so I doubt I'll drive the GC a whole lot any more. Great quick video on how to change the fluid BTW.
You’re in luck. Check out my latest video on replacing belts and pulleys on the 3.6 eTorque. It requires removing lower coolant hoses to swap the belts making it a good time to swap coolant. Now, the way I did it is not by the book since I didn’t hook everything back up, fill with distilled water twice, run up to temp both times, drain, and refill with the Mopar coolant. Instead, I’ll do more frequent partial coolant changes. Less work, easier, sufficient.
Nice video. ZF recommend getting to 30C temp first; hold engine speed at 2,000 rpm in Park for 30 seconds to fill the torque converter; check temp again; go thru P, R, D, D1, D2 for 10 seconds each; check temp again; then do the fill as long as below 50C. Hope this helps someone.
Thanks! I followed the procedure on Alldata. Start “below” 86° F, go through the gears for 5 secs each, fill between 86°F & 122°F. Having done this procedure twice, I get the same results…an initial fill, top off, then recheck at the specified temps. All good with the same outcome both times with the fluid seeping out of the fill hole in that temp range upon check and the same after driving 66 miles for the day.
Was there a specific volume of how many quarts that should be used in all data? Or just stick with the drip method? Thanks for the tutorial. Will save big bucks compared to the dealer@@odysseyusa
Great video, coincidentally as I ordered parts I noticed a whine when downshifting so my assumption is the fluids a little low. So i guess good timing.
@@odysseyusa Just finished my service. Put 5.5 back in, definitely the trans was under filled for sure. Much like you i also purchased a new gasket but the metal gasket looked fine after cleaning. torqued to 11nm also.
Amazing. I have always been worried about this whole concept of Lifetime transmission oil. I don't believe it, nor do I think it actaully works on the long term. I live in a country where the summer temperatures range between 120-130F.
Thank you! I’m glad it was helpful to you. I think they use it as more of a selling point trying to minimize the perception of maintenance needed. If you want the best service life, I’d follow ZF transmission’s recommended service interval of 60,000 miles. Also, given that motor oil degrades just sitting on the shelf (check out The Motor Oil Geek for a video on that and the myth you can shake an oil bottle to mix it back up) I don’t think I’d let it go without a service over 60k miles or 3(?) years. Thanks for watching👍🏼
There’s a direct link in the description, 6 qts on Amazon for 91.25 right now. Best price you will find after I searched for weeks. That transmission is around 6-7k part cost alone and something like the Valvoline multi vehicle transmission fluid that is popular IS the wrong viscosity for this transmission. I found a graph of several brands showing that. The Mopar/ZF brand is the thinnest fluid out there.
With the high cost of vehicle repairs and longer wait times for competent service centers these days, I wanted to share the step-by-step procedure to keep that expensive transmission properly serviced to give it a good chance at a long life. Please share any questions or pointers you may have with other visitors here in the comment section. Thanks for your time and see you on the next one!
Great video, comprehensive, easy to follow and concise. 4x4 Mechanic shop quoted me $525.00 to do this. And the Jeep Dealer said it “is a sealed system and the oil can’t be changed”. Ha ha yeah right.
Yeah lol, that’s highway robbery for this afternoon job with simple tools. I’m surprised the dealer seemed to not want to do it. That’s odd.
I’m glad it was helpful and saved you some cash! Thanks for the support👍🏼
This video is clear, straight to the point, and most importantly, includes your experience and suggestion about reusing the original gasket. Thanks!
I packed all the info and tips in there while I also tried my best to keep it as brief as possible. My goal was to make it beginner friendly too.
If the gasket is in good shape and is pliable at the sealing bead, I don’t think anyone will have a problem reusing the one like my transmission has.
Pro Tip... Leave your AC off while the engine is running as you're topping off so that the condensate water doesn't run down the transmission and look like a leak, causing minor panic before you realize that it's just water and that you're an idiot. :)
😆
An outstanding tutorial. It’s clear and simple. Thanks.
Thanks for the great feedback!
thanks for the video. I'll save it for when I make the change. I'm currently on 45,000 miles. .
Happy to help!
Hey it doesn't hurt to do it at 45,000 miles, I'm thinking of doing mine at 30,000 miles
It can only help!
@@dawood2u Too Early unless your towing heavy loads A LOT. Recommended change interval is 60K but it's your Benjamin's flying away. Do what thou wilt.
Excellent video, appreciate it! Now lets do a timing chain tensioner!
Oh I’m hoping that switching up my oil viscosity can stave that off for a long time. I’ve been running what’s considered a thick version of 5w-30, Valvoline Extended Protection High Mileage. It’s got a strong additive pack too. Needing to do an oil change the other day and after more research on the BITOG forum, I’ve decided to try the Mobil 1 European Car FS 5w-40. Man! It’s so quiet now! The main thing with the 3.6 rocker failure issue is thermal breakdown. These newer cars need a higher HTHS, high temp high shear rating. Manufacturers’ primary care is to get you past the warranty period.
I hope the video helps you out. Have a good one.👍🏼
Great video man - thank you . Used your Facebook post to get here
Thank you and I hope it helps out. 👍🏼
I have this same transmission in my Grand Cherokee. I also bought the lifetime/unlimited mileage (yep you could get that in 2015) Mopar Warranty. The old mechanic in me knows I should be changing that fluid according to at least ZF's recommendations, but asking several dealers and the warranty place, I kept getting told I had to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for fluid changes or the warranty might be voided should the transmission fails. Of course that recommendation is lifetime fluid, don't change it.
I finally decided it's on them if it fails and so be it. I'm now at 200k on original fluid. I've run the hell out of this thing. I've checked the level twice and both times it was still clearish green. Still don't feel good about not changing it, but there are the results I've had anyway.
Too many more miles and I'll be at the point the cost of a replacement transmission will exceed the value of the vehicle and the Mopar warranty won't cover it anyway, so I might go ahead and change it soon anyway. BTW no issues at all so far with the transmission on that original fluid other than my nerves.
We had the lifetime on our 15 Grand Cherokee as well. We ended up getting something bigger.
If I’d planned to keep it until the wheels fell off, I’d of changed it and there’s no way they could’ve been able to tell. There’s no paint marks, tamper deterrent at all. I’d also not of wanted the hassle of being without my vehicle for to preventative maintenance which ZF themselves recommends under normal, not heavy duty, service.
I do understand why you haven’t though. It was a great warranty.
@@odysseyusa Yeah it's too bad you can't get that specific warranty any more, although I never had to use it yet. I've been saving it for something major. I still have the GC and just bought a 2024 Gladiator, so I doubt I'll drive the GC a whole lot any more. Great quick video on how to change the fluid BTW.
The Gladiator will be a lot of fun and thanks! Happy to help.
Can you make video how to flush coolant and refill step by step?
You’re in luck. Check out my latest video on replacing belts and pulleys on the 3.6 eTorque. It requires removing lower coolant hoses to swap the belts making it a good time to swap coolant. Now, the way I did it is not by the book since I didn’t hook everything back up, fill with distilled water twice, run up to temp both times, drain, and refill with the Mopar coolant. Instead, I’ll do more frequent partial coolant changes. Less work, easier, sufficient.
Nice video. ZF recommend getting to 30C temp first; hold engine speed at 2,000 rpm in Park for 30 seconds to fill the torque converter; check temp again; go thru P, R, D, D1, D2 for 10 seconds each; check temp again; then do the fill as long as below 50C. Hope this helps someone.
Thanks!
I followed the procedure on Alldata. Start “below” 86° F, go through the gears for 5 secs each, fill between 86°F & 122°F. Having done this procedure twice, I get the same results…an initial fill, top off, then recheck at the specified temps. All good with the same outcome both times with the fluid seeping out of the fill hole in that temp range upon check and the same after driving 66 miles for the day.
Was there a specific volume of how many quarts that should be used in all data? Or just stick with the drip method?
Thanks for the tutorial. Will save big bucks compared to the dealer@@odysseyusa
Just double checked. No quantity given in Alldata. General consensus for a filter and pan fluid change is just over 5 quarts.
Nice informative vid. Thanks man
No problem 👍
Great video, coincidentally as I ordered parts I noticed a whine when downshifting so my assumption is the fluids a little low. So i guess good timing.
Thank you! Yes, a whine can be a symptom of low fluid level and the pump drawing some air into the system.
@@odysseyusa Just finished my service. Put 5.5 back in, definitely the trans was under filled for sure. Much like you i also purchased a new gasket but the metal gasket looked fine after cleaning. torqued to 11nm also.
That’s great to hear the video was of help. How many KM/miles did the fluid have on it? Was it considerably dark?
Thank you so much 🙏 I will share this video on social media to get you more subscribers
The more the merrier! Thanks!
Amazing. I have always been worried about this whole concept of Lifetime transmission oil. I don't believe it, nor do I think it actaully works on the long term. I live in a country where the summer temperatures range between 120-130F.
Thank you! I’m glad it was helpful to you. I think they use it as more of a selling point trying to minimize the perception of maintenance needed. If you want the best service life, I’d follow ZF transmission’s recommended service interval of 60,000 miles. Also, given that motor oil degrades just sitting on the shelf (check out The Motor Oil Geek for a video on that and the myth you can shake an oil bottle to mix it back up) I don’t think I’d let it go without a service over 60k miles or 3(?) years.
Thanks for watching👍🏼
How many quarts of fluid should be purchased? That stuff is expensive, so don't want to buy too much.
There’s a direct link in the description, 6 qts on Amazon for 91.25 right now. Best price you will find after I searched for weeks. That transmission is around 6-7k part cost alone and something like the Valvoline multi vehicle transmission fluid that is popular IS the wrong viscosity for this transmission. I found a graph of several brands showing that. The Mopar/ZF brand is the thinnest fluid out there.
@@odysseyusa Thanks, did you end up using most of the 6 quarts?
You’re welcome. I ended up using over 5 quarts, maybe as much as 5 1/2.