Awesome. Mechanic wanted to charge me $5000 to rebuild my transmission and stop a check engine code. I told him "Let's just try to change the fluid first". He told me I was wasting my time and he wouldn't service my transmission - only rebuild it. I did it myself. Cost me less than $100. Everything is shifting smoothly, and no more check engine light. This video is greatly appreciated!!!!
@@JesseChoupique I'm hoping for the same result! I bought a used JKU Rubicon 2013 with 139K. It doesn't always shift great but no check engine light. Hoping trans service smoothes out the shifting!
Just did mine.....WHAT A PAIN!!!!!!!!!!!! Wouldn't have tackled it, however, without your great video! The stealership wanted $480 to do mine. I bought a kit from Quadratech for $60 and did it myself. Boom.
Using the dealership wrench set works without dropping the exhaust or jacking the transfer case up to get to em. Came with the Jeep so I figured it will work without the extra attachments
Suggestion... Loosen the pan bolts (not all the way) enough to make a space to use the Topsider once again to drain additional fluid from the pan. Simply slip the tube into the space created by loosening the bolts.
Man what a great video on this. Ordered a topsider, will go to the dealer and get enough fluid for the Power steering, Trans, and Transfer case. Looks pretty straightforward and good to see your ways of dealing with clearance issues and getting the forwardmost bolts appropriately tight.
The worst part for me was getting the pan around the exhaust on a stock setup. all my exhaust bolts are rusted beyond repair. 1) I had to jack the trans as high as it would go by removing the back (4) 16mm bolts that hold the trans to the rubber mount. (jack up until you can hear it crushing the sound deadening material on the trans tunnel). 3 of my trans mount bolts are rusted to the cross member. it was still a struggle multiple 4 letter words type of struggle. 2) To get the back torx bolt out I drilled a hole straight through the cross member. less than 3/8's. The cross member has a ton of holes in it already one more won't hurt. I thank you for the video as it provides a good template to follow but for my stock rusted 8 year old JK things were not as easy.
I made my own "topsider" years ago. Some stiff tubing (pex maybe?) and a 5 gal bucket with a lid. Drilled one hole in the lid for a tight fit with the tubing and another to fit my shop vac hose. Created suction in the bucket to pull fluids then shut off vac and let it siphon overnight. Used it on several vehicles.
Thanks for the video. I’m going to do my 60k change very soon. And luckily I have access to a full service garage 🙏🏼. Thanks again for the insight, much appreciated 💪😎👊
Important maintenance on a Jeep. Do it long before 60K. My Jeep had more pick up and energy. I did mine at 40K and it was due. The dealer told me not to. The dealer wants you to wait, so it’s out of warranty and your basically screwed. Good video
I started having leaks and realized it was coming from the transmission cover seal then I realized that needed to be changed at 60k miles. I’m at 84k miles rn guess the leak was a blessing in disguise. I will replacing the filter, seal and new fluids soon. Ty for the video! Very informative! Much appreciated!
Good video. I'm getting ready to do this service as well as the transfer case and differentials on my 2014 JK. As you point out, you want to be sure there is a new O ring on the transmission filter. Like all similar automotive components with O rings or similar seals, you want to be certain that you install the new part with one, and only one, seal. Sometimes the old O ring can be stuck in place, so be sure when you change an oil filter, transmission filter, or similar part, that you account for ALL the O rings; i.e. new one in and, just as important, old one out.
CPO... Great vid as always. I too am at 60k and waiting for winter to break. Lots of stuff on the shelf that needs attention. You’ve reminded me that I have a decent oil extractor in the attic that needs to be put into service for this. Thanks for your many tips and again as always, great job :)
I have a 2000 wrangler sport after taking the transmission pan down bought an aftermarket drain plug drilled a hole in pan, the drain plug had a nut that your Suppose to put on the the back of it after putting through the pan I didn’t do that I cut the drain plug down a lot and wielded it from the inside of the pan, works like a charm
I know your video is a few years old, but I just did my 2013 wrangler, and I noticed in your video that it appears you did not fully seat the filter all the way. There is a notch on the opposite end , that when seated fully, the notch goes in a slot in the transmission and the filter goes up fully touching the bottom of the transmission. I bring this up to you because when I removed my pan, the filter was in the pan, I believe mine was changed by prior owner and did not seat it fully and it fell down.. I believe you may also find yours in the bottom of your pan, if you did not fully seat the filter.
Great Vid, glad I watched for the "gotchas". I am doing my 2010 Rubicon this weekend, however I opted to get a new transmission pan with the drain plug in it to swap out and will be using the lubelocker gasket. Because I saw this video in advance, I also ordered a pneumatic/manual fluid extractor (figured it would be nice to have when servicing my boat as well). I expect it to go much easier now that I saw you go through everything. Thanks!!!!
Did you get the new pan with a drain plug installed? If so, how did it work out? I have heard the plug is directly over the exhaust on the JK making it a pain.
@@sherifx5122 no, the drain plug is actually facing the oil drain plug (best way I can describe it. For future drains, it will be extremely easy. Only problem I am having with it, is it had a drip coming out for a day or so. Looks like I was able to clamp it down tighter and it seems to have done the trick. Just drove to New Orleans and back (from Florida) and I haven't hit a point that I needed to add fluid yet. I reached out to Dorman about it and they are sending me a different Drain Plug gasket.....so, if you get one, you may want to request the gasket first.....I am not sure why they don't include the new one to begin with.
Thanks for doing this video. When I am ready to change mine, I will use this as one of my reference point for sure. The thing about doing maintenance myself is those tricky parts about getting at bolts and even breaking them free. Good tips in here to do that with this!
I was oddly happy to hear when you start your engine it sounds like hot garbage right at the start. I switched to 10-40 lucas oil and it runs a whole lot smoother though! But good video :) Much appreciate confirming my knowledge of this is sound for when I do it.
I change 2 quarts of trans fluid with every oil change to keep it fresh in between pan drops. I bought a case of Mopar ATF 4, and suck out what I can (JK/U has a very shallow pan compared to my Commander), usually about 1.5 - 2 Qts, and replace what I remove + 3-4 oz of “stick around” amount. I do my diffs and Xfer case every 20k miles. Right now, 44K miles on my 2016 JKU, at 60k will drop that pan. I’m surprised there is no screw that holds the filter in place, unless that filter sits on the floor of the pan. Again, I have so much clearance where you have none with the exhaust, I have a 2016 JKU 75th Anniversary Edition. I have like an inch or 2 clearance. I’ll take a pic when I have a chance.
This is what I do: I have the dealer do the pan drop, filter change and pan cleaning. Filter and fluid is good for a VERY long time in my dodge avenger. I ordered 5 qt of mopar aft +4, and used the orange gas siphoned pump to siphon out all the atf I could through the dipstick. Replacing it with new, a week later I did it again with the remaining few quarts. My 2011 dodge avenger now has 172k miles and the atf filter was recently changed. And the fluid is nice and red..it should all last the life of the car, assuming it junks before 250k miles. 350$ I've spent on the transmission, and I shouldn't need to even touch it for a very long time. The atf +4 mopar is an ultra long lasting "fill for life" fluid that the owners manual doesn't say to change until 120k miles . I can confirm its true, I didn't get around to having the dealer tranny service until 145k miles it was dirty they said but everything is just fine..
I just wish they designed a filter system that can be changed without removing the pan, a lot of folks just change the fluid and never the filter, that is the case with a “flush”, which I would never do, better to slowly introduce fluid replacement, especially if you did not replace it for 100-150K miles.
I suck out and replace 2-3 quarts of trans fluid (Mopar ATF 4) when I do my oil changes at 5000 miles, only use Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 5W20 and Mopar OEM filter cartridge for oil. I do my differentials every 20k (Mopar 80W90 and LSD Additive) and Xfer case (Mopar ATF 4) every 20K. I’ll do my transmission full service at 60K. It may be overkill, but fluids are a lot cheaper than replacing the hardware, and I know I always have fresh lubrication and am using the best quality as I do it all myself for my very expensive vehicle (2016 Sahara 75th Anniversary edition).
I agree. What ur doing is preventative maintenance. It will save u from a potential future costly repair. I recommend replacing the trans pan with one that has a drain plug so u can easily drain the ATF. It's stupid they don't make em like that from factory IMHO.
i tried to remove the transmission pan cover and the torx head broke, the rest of the bolt is stuck in there along with the compression piece. any idea how i can get this off ?
Mityvac has a nice fluid evacuator too for like $55 too. I think that one is 8 litres then they have bigger ones. I bought it for different reasons but may be a good idea
Question: After warming up your Jeep/ Transmission, did you wait for it to cool down a bit before inserting that plastic tube from the TopSider? I’m getting to do my fluid replacement using a TopSider I was concerned if the tube will melt. Thank you for creating this video!
Question ? The torque invertor was not drain a tall so is this means having to do oil change 2 time like in one week to make the rest of the oil in torque invertor to be mixed with the first oil change and re-doing oil change again the second week for helping to making sure the oil change is done all over in the transmission itself including torque invertor ?
I have 2014 Wrangler with the W5A580 gear box. Did this procedure, and in about 2 months, it started leaking. I took it to a different mechanic again, did the same thing and once again, after about a month or 2, it starts leaking. No idea what the problem could be, I only buy genuine parts
I’m looking at a 2003 4.0L with 74K miles, manual, that looks to be in great shape for $10,000, would like to not deal with the shortcomings of automatic transmissions. My mechanic told me inspect that undercarriage carefully, the TJs are known for rusty frames.
Manuals are different. There’s a drain plug rather than having to drop the entire pan. Use redline for your trans fluid trust me it’ll shift beyond smooth!
Im a mailman using a 2017 rhd wrangler. I had the dealer replace fluid/filter @30k miles. They ended up snapping off several bolts on the pan. Ive been too scared to try it. I'm at 110k now. Ive had my oil changed 3 times. I have an oil suction device...maybe I'll try that and suck out oil every engine oil change.
What size is the star tool? Also you kinda skipped over the part of raising it. so after you remove the skid plate was there anything else to remove and where did you put the jack?
How is the replacement pan that has a drain plug ? I’m always afraid will be prone to leaking. The JLs do not have a dipstick, supposedly a “sealed” trans, but does have a drain plug. “Sealed” means sealed only up to warranty, then you’re on your own. No such thing as “lifetime” or “sealed” transmissions, change the fluid at least, whether you have a drain plug or at least “suck and replace” via the dipstick tube.
I had a 2003 Dodge Durango that had the same pan design no drain plug. They had a aftermarket drain pan that had a drain plug installed in the design. Do they make that same pan for the newer FCA transmissions? All fleets not just Durango.
It is interesting to see the differences made by Jeep to the transmission oil pan during the JK period. I have a 2011 and my pan looks nothing like this one. I have 13 bolts and the pan is really hidden a few components held in place by 16MM bolts. I wanted to change the filter but gave up. Just pumped out the oil and replaced it.
Great video! Have a difficult question. After changing my fluid on my 15 jeep wrangler sport jk I noticed my gears tend to climb higher in the rpm range and hesitant too switch gears. Everything is fine. Just that little problem. Thank you.
We will do this tomorrow. Question... why did you warm it up to temp, or at all, prior to removing the fluid? You sort of said why in your video, but I guess my real question is, was it still hot or warm when you stuck that tubing into the dipstick hole? I'll be using a standard hand pump siphon (2 hoses, Harbor Freight) and don't think it's a good idea to be sticking that tubing down in there for risk of melting and having potential debris travel down the hole. How long did you let cool down before doing the service?
Great video, would have been a real mess without using an oil extractor. Doesn't look to bad to do, especially compared to doing it on my Range Rover Sport (Trading in for another jeep)
Dont drop exhaust or remove crossmember. Thats crazy. I just used a dedicated 10mm flexible socket i bought from Sears. Worked like a charm. You WILL NOT have enough room to use a traditional 10mm socket with a universal wobble extension. You MUST buy a short dedicated 10mm "wobble" type bit to have enough room.
The dedicated wobble socket is a good idea. I used a dedicated wobble T30 torx drive since that is what my JK uses. Not 10mm. The bolt heads are round with torx drive.
@@danclay8229 Agreed. My 2008 uses a different bolt than your year, and in either case the space is severely limited. A dedicated wobble socket is necessary. Not a universal wobble with the additional length of another socket on top. Thanks for the reply!
A "smidge" huh? can't seem to find that measurement scale anywhere :) One thing I found that helps when dealing with any type of oil change is a Large cardboard box under the rig catches that bit of oil that refuses to drip in the catch pan. Also I have found that Simple Green is excellent for cleaning off the oil that gets on the parts you don't want it on like that exhaust piping. I don't understand why there is not a drain plug in the pan like the engine oil drain. Maybe you can tell me why. Decent vid not as in depth as some of your others and it makes me want to take it to a place like AAMCO because I don't want to go through all that laying on my garage floor. Thanks
Awesome video thank for all the info. PS maybe you could of used the MVP to suck the oil from the pan on the ground to avoid spilling more oil, just a thought. Thanks again
my way is drop the pan change the fluid in the pan and filter about 5 1/3 quarts ,full up with 5 1/3 quarts drive 30 mile ,repeat again 5 quarts drive 30 miles again repeat 5 1/3 quarts best way changing ur trans with out flushing i have 2014 grand jeep takes total 16 quarts,,this is with out checking or flushing,
Hi, I have some questions. Is this the same transmission that the 2011 Grand Cherokee uses? I really suppose so. Can you share the amazon link to buy the LUCAS fluid? I'm really not sure which one to order.
JUST bought myself a '14 JKU. 130K miles. Owner stated he never changed trans fluid. Never did any harsh 4-wheelin. Towed a small camper a few times. I've read several posts about NOT changing fluid. That it could cause more damage than good. I'm just an over-achiever and really want to get this remedied. Any thoughts? Partial change, maybe? Thanks in advance and for all your content. (Subscribed !)
If you look at the service manual, the 60k Mile service is recommended for AT where the vehicle has been used for specific uses (which they outline). If you don’t fall into this category then the suggested maintenance interval is 10 years or 120k miles.
I actually think maybe I could have repumped it and gotten more out I'm not sure if it ran out of vacuum before it fully finished... I do know there was still a lot dripping and draining from the transmission after I dropped the pan...so much of that could have just settled after I stopped pumping.
This is an awesome instructional Chris an really appreciate your time in filming this. After I extracted the oil the first time with the topsider I pumped it 10 more times to remove more. Worked great! Thanks again!
Great video lots of good details to avoid problems, thank you but I am with the ones in the 30K mile club. for a few reasons one you did not do the converter which is ok if done at 30K in my mind. Also it is just cheap insurance and noticing how dark your fluid was it would have been nice have gotten it out sooner. Thank you again I am at 55K planning for the 2nd change (first was by dealer at 30K). PS side note not sure what year yours jeep is but engine oil spec was changed after 2012 on Pentastar engine from 5W-30 to 5W-20 same engine you can thank CAFE stds for the change. You may want to think about that, I like the idea of a thicker oil film, I am not worried about .01 MPG improvement. The manufacture is not worried about failure or wear after 150K but I am.
Superbe expérience Il faut contrôler à chaud huile rapport 80 degree parcourir 30 klm et après contrôle la mesure Ici européen nous avons 2 filtre à charge pour la boite vitesse Et 26 boulons sur bac carter Merci encore Superbe 👍
Awesome. Mechanic wanted to charge me $5000 to rebuild my transmission and stop a check engine code. I told him "Let's just try to change the fluid first". He told me I was wasting my time and he wouldn't service my transmission - only rebuild it. I did it myself. Cost me less than $100. Everything is shifting smoothly, and no more check engine light. This video is greatly appreciated!!!!
That mechanic was a crook.
@@theirthereandtheyre2947 Got over 2000 miles since transmission fluid change and no engine lights. Working great. Thanks again.
@@JesseChoupique I'm hoping for the same result!
I bought a used JKU Rubicon 2013 with 139K. It doesn't always shift great but no check engine light. Hoping trans service smoothes out the shifting!
@@whowho8470 I've got almost 8,000 miles since I did this operation and no issues. You can do it.
@@JesseChoupique my 08 will not shift out of first. Check engine light. Some slipping. Do you think this will fix it?
Just did mine.....WHAT A PAIN!!!!!!!!!!!! Wouldn't have tackled it, however, without your great video! The stealership wanted $480 to do mine. I bought a kit from Quadratech for $60 and did it myself. Boom.
Using the dealership wrench set works without dropping the exhaust or jacking the transfer case up to get to em. Came with the Jeep so I figured it will work without the extra attachments
Suggestion... Loosen the pan bolts (not all the way) enough to make a space to use the Topsider once again to drain additional fluid from the pan. Simply slip the tube into the space created by loosening the bolts.
Good tip.
Just the tip. Hehe
Man what a great video on this. Ordered a topsider, will go to the dealer and get enough fluid for the Power steering, Trans, and Transfer case. Looks pretty straightforward and good to see your ways of dealing with clearance issues and getting the forwardmost bolts appropriately tight.
This video was VERY helpful. It made changing the transmission fluid take less than an hour. The Topsider recommendation was perfect. Thank you!
Got 165k miles on jeep. Done three fluid changes, . Runs fine.
Nice. I'm gonna replace the oil and pan at 30-40k
The worst part for me was getting the pan around the exhaust on a stock setup. all my exhaust bolts are rusted beyond repair.
1) I had to jack the trans as high as it would go by removing the back (4) 16mm bolts that hold the trans to the rubber mount. (jack up until you can hear it crushing the sound deadening material on the trans tunnel). 3 of my trans mount bolts are rusted to the cross member. it was still a struggle multiple 4 letter words type of struggle.
2) To get the back torx bolt out I drilled a hole straight through the cross member. less than 3/8's. The cross member has a ton of holes in it already one more won't hurt.
I thank you for the video as it provides a good template to follow but for my stock rusted 8 year old JK things were not as easy.
What about drilling a 1/2” hole for an access hole through cross member so you could sneak socket or extended torqs bit
Gotta get this done on my 15 JKU I’m at 66k miles thanks for the video 👊🏻
AYUE SAME BRO 😂😂😂💪🏼
I gotta 2013 gecko green
Thank you so much for this video. This helped me tremendously , I am about to swap out my gasket as its leaking pretty bad . Sitting at 60k miles
I made my own "topsider" years ago. Some stiff tubing (pex maybe?) and a 5 gal bucket with a lid. Drilled one hole in the lid for a tight fit with the tubing and another to fit my shop vac hose. Created suction in the bucket to pull fluids then shut off vac and let it siphon overnight. Used it on several vehicles.
Thanks for the video. I’m going to do my 60k change very soon. And luckily I have access to a full service garage 🙏🏼. Thanks again for the insight, much appreciated 💪😎👊
Important maintenance on a Jeep. Do it long before 60K. My Jeep had more pick up and energy. I did mine at 40K and it was due.
The dealer told me not to. The dealer wants you to wait, so it’s out of warranty and your basically screwed. Good video
I started having leaks and realized it was coming from the transmission cover seal then I realized that needed to be changed at 60k miles. I’m at 84k miles rn guess the leak was a blessing in disguise. I will replacing the filter, seal and new fluids soon. Ty for the video! Very informative! Much appreciated!
The manual actually states 60k if you use your vehicle for specific purposes. 120k if not.
Good video. I'm getting ready to do this service as well as the transfer case and differentials on my 2014 JK. As you point out, you want to be sure there is a new O ring on the transmission filter. Like all similar automotive components with O rings or similar seals, you want to be certain that you install the new part with one, and only one, seal. Sometimes the old O ring can be stuck in place, so be sure when you change an oil filter, transmission filter, or similar part, that you account for ALL the O rings; i.e. new one in and, just as important, old one out.
Thanks so much for this video. It helped me a LOT. Just finished doing this on my 2016 JKUR. So far no leaks.
How many quarts did yours take?
CPO...
Great vid as always.
I too am at 60k and waiting for winter to break. Lots of stuff on the shelf that needs attention.
You’ve reminded me that I have a decent oil extractor in the attic that needs to be put into service for this.
Thanks for your many tips and again as always, great job :)
Great video...at the very least, it shows what a tech at a dealer would do! thank you C3PO.
I have a 2000 wrangler sport after taking the transmission pan down bought an aftermarket drain plug drilled a hole in pan, the drain plug had a nut that your Suppose to put on the the back of it after putting through the pan I didn’t do that I cut the drain plug down a lot and wielded it from the inside of the pan, works like a charm
I know your video is a few years old, but I just did my 2013 wrangler, and I noticed in your video that it appears you did not fully seat the filter all the way. There is a notch on the opposite end , that when seated fully, the notch goes in a slot in the transmission and the filter goes up fully touching the bottom of the transmission. I bring this up to you because when I removed my pan, the filter was in the pan, I believe mine was changed by prior owner and did not seat it fully and it fell down.. I believe you may also find yours in the bottom of your pan, if you did not fully seat the filter.
Nice "How-To" video. I'll be doing my transmission service on my 2013 JK the same way you presented here. Thanks!
I wonder if you jacked up the opposite side of the vehicle, maybe you could gather more oil through the exrtactor
Great Vid, glad I watched for the "gotchas". I am doing my 2010 Rubicon this weekend, however I opted to get a new transmission pan with the drain plug in it to swap out and will be using the lubelocker gasket. Because I saw this video in advance, I also ordered a pneumatic/manual fluid extractor (figured it would be nice to have when servicing my boat as well). I expect it to go much easier now that I saw you go through everything. Thanks!!!!
Did you get the new pan with a drain plug installed? If so, how did it work out? I have heard the plug is directly over the exhaust on the JK making it a pain.
@@sherifx5122 no, the drain plug is actually facing the oil drain plug (best way I can describe it. For future drains, it will be extremely easy. Only problem I am having with it, is it had a drip coming out for a day or so. Looks like I was able to clamp it down tighter and it seems to have done the trick. Just drove to New Orleans and back (from Florida) and I haven't hit a point that I needed to add fluid yet. I reached out to Dorman about it and they are sending me a different Drain Plug gasket.....so, if you get one, you may want to request the gasket first.....I am not sure why they don't include the new one to begin with.
Eric Bush I’m hesitant to do this, always afraid going to leak, same with those “switch” based drain plugs for the oil pan.
Great video, easy to follow. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
I added speed holes in the bottom to drain it. Now it continually drains so I don’t have to initiate it.
Thanks for doing this video. When I am ready to change mine, I will use this as one of my reference point for sure. The thing about doing maintenance myself is those tricky parts about getting at bolts and even breaking them free. Good tips in here to do that with this!
Thanks for the go by. Very well done.
My exhaust does not block those bolts (2016 JKU 75th Anniversary), looks to be plenty of clearance to to slide out that pan.
Your videos are great! Just got done doing my 2012, just to let others know, it is hard as hell to do without exaughst spacers.
cadillacvelocity how did you get it out???
I was oddly happy to hear when you start your engine it sounds like hot garbage right at the start. I switched to 10-40 lucas oil and it runs a whole lot smoother though! But good video :) Much appreciate confirming my knowledge of this is sound for when I do it.
I change 2 quarts of trans fluid with every oil change to keep it fresh in between pan drops. I bought a case of Mopar ATF 4, and suck out what I can (JK/U has a very shallow pan compared to my Commander), usually about 1.5 - 2 Qts, and replace what I remove + 3-4 oz of “stick around” amount. I do my diffs and Xfer case every 20k miles. Right now, 44K miles on my 2016 JKU, at 60k will drop that pan. I’m surprised there is no screw that holds the filter in place, unless that filter sits on the floor of the pan. Again, I have so much clearance where you have none with the exhaust, I have a 2016 JKU 75th Anniversary Edition. I have like an inch or 2 clearance. I’ll take a pic when I have a chance.
Did this today and took me little over hour! Did the same! Super easy! Thanks!
Did you have to unbolt the exhaust, and is your jeep stock? 32 or 33 inch tires? sahara, or rubicon?
This is what I do: I have the dealer do the pan drop, filter change and pan cleaning. Filter and fluid is good for a VERY long time in my dodge avenger. I ordered 5 qt of mopar aft +4, and used the orange gas siphoned pump to siphon out all the atf I could through the dipstick. Replacing it with new, a week later I did it again with the remaining few quarts. My 2011 dodge avenger now has 172k miles and the atf filter was recently changed. And the fluid is nice and red..it should all last the life of the car, assuming it junks before 250k miles. 350$ I've spent on the transmission, and I shouldn't need to even touch it for a very long time. The atf +4 mopar is an ultra long lasting "fill for life" fluid that the owners manual doesn't say to change until 120k miles . I can confirm its true, I didn't get around to having the dealer tranny service until 145k miles it was dirty they said but everything is just fine..
I just wish they designed a filter system that can be changed without removing the pan, a lot of folks just change the fluid and never the filter, that is the case with a “flush”, which I would never do, better to slowly introduce fluid replacement, especially if you did not replace it for 100-150K miles.
Dorman makes an after market trans pan that has a drain plug!
That's pretty awesome man. Love that top sider!
I suck out and replace 2-3 quarts of trans fluid (Mopar ATF 4) when I do my oil changes at 5000 miles, only use Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 5W20 and Mopar OEM filter cartridge for oil. I do my differentials every 20k (Mopar 80W90 and LSD Additive) and Xfer case (Mopar ATF 4) every 20K. I’ll do my transmission full service at 60K. It may be overkill, but fluids are a lot cheaper than replacing the hardware, and I know I always have fresh lubrication and am using the best quality as I do it all myself for my very expensive vehicle (2016 Sahara 75th Anniversary edition).
I agree. What ur doing is preventative maintenance. It will save u from a potential future costly repair.
I recommend replacing the trans pan with one that has a drain plug so u can easily drain the ATF. It's stupid they don't make em like that from factory IMHO.
@@whowho8470 i heard it leaks, as reported from a few folks who installed it, but yes, would make it so much easier.
i tried to remove the transmission pan cover and the torx head broke, the rest of the bolt is stuck in there along with the compression piece. any idea how i can get this off ?
Mityvac has a nice fluid evacuator too for like $55 too. I think that one is 8 litres then they have bigger ones. I bought it for different reasons but may be a good idea
You forgot the other tran filter 52108316AA 52108304AA
Awesome video brother
On mine, a 2015, you’re supposed to check the level in neutral.
Nice and simple clarification. Thanks. Steve
I changed my pad with new gasket and saw that it was leaking a lil.... what should I do? All it needed was the rubber gasket right? No silicone? Ect?
Question: After warming up your Jeep/ Transmission, did you wait for it to cool down a bit before inserting that plastic tube from the TopSider?
I’m getting to do my fluid replacement using a TopSider I was concerned if the tube will melt.
Thank you for creating this video!
Excellent video Overclocked, Thank you!!👍
Question ? The torque invertor was not drain a tall so is this means having to do oil change 2 time like in one week to make the rest of the oil in torque invertor to be mixed with the first oil change and re-doing oil change again the second week for helping to making sure the oil change is done all over in the transmission itself including torque invertor ?
Thanks so much for this! So, how much new ATF+4 total did it take after the pan drop and drain? Was it still
Measure what you take out and add a cup.
@@TheSchmed terrible answer,doesn't help when you buy oil in advance
I have 2014 Wrangler with the W5A580 gear box. Did this procedure, and in about 2 months, it started leaking. I took it to a different mechanic again, did the same thing and once again, after about a month or 2, it starts leaking. No idea what the problem could be, I only buy genuine parts
You are my role model!!!
I’m looking at a 2003 4.0L with 74K miles, manual, that looks to be in great shape for $10,000, would like to not deal with the shortcomings of automatic transmissions. My mechanic told me inspect that undercarriage carefully, the TJs are known for rusty frames.
Manuals are different. There’s a drain plug rather than having to drop the entire pan. Use redline for your trans fluid trust me it’ll shift beyond smooth!
Im a mailman using a 2017 rhd wrangler. I had the dealer replace fluid/filter @30k miles. They ended up snapping off several bolts on the pan. Ive been too scared to try it. I'm at 110k now. Ive had my oil changed 3 times. I have an oil suction device...maybe I'll try that and suck out oil every engine oil change.
Just found your channel. Love it. Is that LED portable light handing from your hood a DIY creation?
Hi, thanks for the video, very helpful!
Just have a doubt, the quantity of oil because I don't have an deep stick!! 😓
Very gentle ! Nice job
Can you please give me the mopar seal # and filter #? Is there a site to look these nos up? Thanks! I own a 2015 jeep wrangler sahara 4 door.
What size is the star tool? Also you kinda skipped over the part of raising it. so after you remove the skid plate was there anything else to remove and where did you put the jack?
Thank you! Great video
My jeep just started dripping transmission fluid what can i do ?
How is the replacement pan that has a drain plug ? I’m always afraid will be prone to leaking. The JLs do not have a dipstick, supposedly a “sealed” trans, but does have a drain plug. “Sealed” means sealed only up to warranty, then you’re on your own. No such thing as “lifetime” or “sealed” transmissions, change the fluid at least, whether you have a drain plug or at least “suck and replace” via the dipstick tube.
Nicce job CPO, like the topsider idea!
Great and informative video
I had a 2003 Dodge Durango that had the same pan design no drain plug. They had a aftermarket drain pan that had a drain plug installed in the design. Do they make that same pan for the newer FCA transmissions? All fleets not just Durango.
So you refill it from the dip stick
It is interesting to see the differences made by Jeep to the transmission oil pan during the JK period. I have a 2011 and my pan looks nothing like this one. I have 13 bolts and the pan is really hidden a few components held in place by 16MM bolts. I wanted to change the filter but gave up. Just pumped out the oil and replaced it.
2012 and up is different transmission and engine
Yes those bolts are a headache I’ve changed the filter twice never gets easier
what about the oil inside the torke converter?
Great video! Have a difficult question. After changing my fluid on my 15 jeep wrangler sport jk I noticed my gears tend to climb higher in the rpm range and hesitant too switch gears. Everything is fine. Just that little problem. Thank you.
Thank you. Great work!
You made it look easy. Hopefully it goes that easy for me. Do you think you could of clamped the hose off and pumped some more to get more fluid out?
Great work!
This is a great post! Super informative.
We will do this tomorrow. Question... why did you warm it up to temp, or at all, prior to removing the fluid? You sort of said why in your video, but I guess my real question is, was it still hot or warm when you stuck that tubing into the dipstick hole? I'll be using a standard hand pump siphon (2 hoses, Harbor Freight) and don't think it's a good idea to be sticking that tubing down in there for risk of melting and having potential debris travel down the hole.
How long did you let cool down before doing the service?
Do you recommend a little bit of oil on the new gasket itself like we usually do with the engine oil filter gasket?
Great video, would have been a real mess without using an oil extractor. Doesn't look to bad to do, especially compared to doing it on my Range Rover Sport (Trading in for another jeep)
Dont drop exhaust or remove crossmember. Thats crazy. I just used a dedicated 10mm flexible socket i bought from Sears. Worked like a charm. You WILL NOT have enough room to use a traditional 10mm socket with a universal wobble extension. You MUST buy a short dedicated 10mm "wobble" type bit to have enough room.
The dedicated wobble socket is a good idea. I used a dedicated wobble T30 torx drive since that is what my JK uses. Not 10mm. The bolt heads are round with torx drive.
@@danclay8229 Agreed. My 2008 uses a different bolt than your year, and in either case the space is severely limited. A dedicated wobble socket is necessary. Not a universal wobble with the additional length of another socket on top. Thanks for the reply!
@@danclay8229 did us 10mm socket wobble? Did it work without take skid plate??
did you recommend using mopar or im can use different brand
A "smidge" huh? can't seem to find that measurement scale anywhere :) One thing I found that helps when dealing with any type of oil change is a Large cardboard box under the rig catches that bit of oil that refuses to drip in the catch pan. Also I have found that Simple Green is excellent for cleaning off the oil that gets on the parts you don't want it on like that exhaust piping. I don't understand why there is not a drain plug in the pan like the engine oil drain. Maybe you can tell me why. Decent vid not as in depth as some of your others and it makes me want to take it to a place like AAMCO because I don't want to go through all that laying on my garage floor. Thanks
Awesome video thank for all the info. PS maybe you could of used the MVP to suck the oil from the pan on the ground to avoid spilling more oil, just a thought. Thanks again
Thanks bud, helps me out a lot
my way is drop the pan change the fluid in the pan and filter about 5 1/3 quarts ,full up with 5 1/3 quarts drive 30 mile ,repeat again 5 quarts drive 30 miles again repeat 5 1/3 quarts best way changing ur trans with out flushing i have 2014 grand jeep takes total 16 quarts,,this is with out checking or flushing,
I would think just putting a hose to the bottom and using a shop vac would work.
hi how many 1/4 oils take
You could also try a wobble socket for those bolts spend a little save some headache 🤕 and a piece of cardboard underneath you next time
What years is this jeep
Great video Sir Thanks
At what km's do you recommend before changing the oil out? I have 63 000 kms on my Wrangler JL
Hi, I have some questions. Is this the same transmission that the 2011 Grand Cherokee uses? I really suppose so. Can you share the amazon link to buy the LUCAS fluid? I'm really not sure which one to order.
JUST bought myself a '14 JKU. 130K miles. Owner stated he never changed trans fluid. Never did any harsh 4-wheelin. Towed a small camper a few times. I've read several posts about NOT changing fluid. That it could cause more damage than good. I'm just an over-achiever and really want to get this remedied. Any thoughts? Partial change, maybe? Thanks in advance and for all your content. (Subscribed !)
If you look at the service manual, the 60k Mile service is recommended for AT where the vehicle has been used for specific uses (which they outline). If you don’t fall into this category then the suggested maintenance interval is 10 years or 120k miles.
I wonder if you had leveled the trans first if you'd have gotten more of the fuid out side the top sider.
I actually think maybe I could have repumped it and gotten more out I'm not sure if it ran out of vacuum before it fully finished... I do know there was still a lot dripping and draining from the transmission after I dropped the pan...so much of that could have just settled after I stopped pumping.
This is an awesome instructional Chris an really appreciate your time in filming this.
After I extracted the oil the first time with the topsider I pumped it 10 more times to remove more. Worked great!
Thanks again!
Greatest video I’ve seen so far !
About to get to work!
Great video lots of good details to avoid problems, thank you but I am with the ones in the 30K mile club. for a few reasons one you did not do the converter which is ok if done at 30K in my mind. Also it is just cheap insurance and noticing how dark your fluid was it would have been nice have gotten it out sooner. Thank you again I am at 55K planning for the 2nd change (first was by dealer at 30K). PS side note not sure what year yours jeep is but engine oil spec was changed after 2012 on Pentastar engine from 5W-30 to 5W-20 same engine you can thank CAFE stds for the change. You may want to think about that, I like the idea of a thicker oil film, I am not worried about .01 MPG improvement. The manufacture is not worried about failure or wear after 150K but I am.
How come you heated up the transmission fluid before you drained it?
I understand that the fluid would likely flow "better" if it was warm but do you think it would be necessary?
The one bolt beat me into submission...i can't lie
Good video thanks
Great video. Is that am aftermarket guage with the temp readout? Im assuming it plugs into OBDII. If so what brand? Thanks
Superbe expérience
Il faut contrôler à chaud huile rapport 80 degree parcourir 30 klm et après contrôle la mesure
Ici européen nous avons 2 filtre à charge pour la boite vitesse
Et 26 boulons sur bac carter
Merci encore Superbe 👍
beaucoup plus d huile car il y en a aussi dans le convertisseur
good video! equalize the high music volume down to match voice levels.
Muchas gracias!!
Doesn't it have a torque converter ?