mine is a 2021 jl i did mine it also took 61/2 qts made a big difference in the way it shifts. must have been low from factory. i bought a sheet of exhaust heat shield wrap and installed it on exhaust next to ppe trans pan. it is the new style that's been cut out for exhaust pipe to run under . used a home made vacuum jar hooked up to a a/c service vacuum pump then used a clear 1/8 plastic hose that i stuck into fill hole. sucked every drop of fluid out of pan ,jar was a 1 gallon with metal lid that i soldered some fittings to connect a/c charging hoses
That’s awesome I was hoping the fill plug on the passenger side wasn’t the only one that one had me irritated lol. Have you had the fuel pump recall done yet if so what did that end up changing. Wondering what they changed on the cp4 to make it better.
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful. I just installed the PPE pan on my JLU with a 3.6l gas. I noticed you filled the transmission with a plug on the drivers side. The instructions show the plug on the rear passenger side. I used the rear passenger side and full was adding 5.75 qts.
@9:00... I've heard that you want to make sure your transmission is level rather than the vehicle... actually putting a little level on the face of the trans where the gasket would contact (or parallel to it). This usually means the back end is significantly higher than the front... otherwise you'll get fluid trickling out the fill plug prematurely and be a bit underfilled... that's my understanding anyway...
Gray area but good point. Typically they say the car needs to be level to check. I check it on the alignment lift or on the flat ground as the lift can not be level front to back. Suspension lifts that remove the factory rake of the suspension can technically alternate to but by what degree I’m unsure.
The filter is replaceable. Ppe sells their filter on the website if you do the ppe pan. Mopar sells a filter too if you’re doing their factory pan. As far as the gasket you can reuse it or replace it. It’s like same heavy duty gaskets they use on the front diff. Metal base with a heavy duty rubber seal. I plan on replacing it when I do the filter in about 60k miles. Thanks for watching.
@@WolfOverland The difference between PPE and mopar stock is this. PPE is an aluminum pan with a replaceable filter. The Mopar is a stock plastic pan and the filter is NON REPLACEABLE. (MOPAR PAN IS always REPLACED because its plastic and a hard filter that is not changeable) I went with the PPE one.
I use the same vac/fill system you use and I use it to suck the fluid from the pan before I loosen the pan to drain it. This saves messes. I would put the magnets in the new pan even though it appears to be aluminum, it won't go anywhere and will attract small metal particles. I tried to order the pan and it's out of stock. Thanks.
I was thinking about adding this, but the warranty gets me nervous. If something happens to the trans even for other reason they’ll blame it on the pan filter maybe voiding.
@@Good-luck-Jonathan same. I put off this project for too long. The trans fluid was definitely due thanks to the old trans fluid I sent out to the lab to have analyzed. The recc due to the way the vehicle is operated. They recc sending another sample at another 40k miles. I figure if I was going to drop the mopar trans pan and pay all that money for another mopar pan I should just put that to the ppe pan anyway.
@@WolfOverland I'm going to do a drain and fill every 10k. It at 1300miles but thinking to do a filter and drain to clean the wear in metals? The OEM oil is pretty good but I also may switch to Redline Oil or Amsoil. Did you have any shift issues with the Amsoil?
Just found out the OEM ATF is a synthetic blend? Why did they do that ??? It can run very hot in the summer and towing? I will do Amsoil OE like you did if you had no issues with it?
question when you put it in 2ad gear and give it a little gas doesnt the car need to have the rear wheels off the ground i was going to use ramps to do the job at home in the basement
This is great for your trans but i am going to put in whatever i can suction out for now ....just bought a 24 compass 2.0 , are those engines reliable if maintained?
@@WolfOverlandso did you add some fluid before you started filming? Just curious on that part too. Looking to change my fluid here soon. This was a pretty good video on how to do so.
@@WolfOverland Well, the initial fill didn't make the directors cut!!! I wonder how many people fried their transmission to wait for it to reach temp while empty??????????????? You need to make sure you edit this to include the initial cold fill!!!
Love your channel and respect what you do for a living, but what you did in this video is a little confusing and maybe opens the door for a bit of debate. Here are my questions: 1. You stated OEM trans fluid is not synthetic? Is that really true? The whole lifetime trans life is "supposedly" due to the synthetic oil but I agree with the point of changing it at 50 or 60k. 2. You made a note "don't mix fluid" but the reality is you did mix fluid right? What I mean is our transmissions have the oil cooler and temp control valve set up. You didn't state anything about flushing the system so technically you mixed the new fluid with the OEM residual in the trans right? 3. in the video you transitioned from putting oil on the O ring to warming up the engine and didn't show or talk about the fill? Was there something specific in filling that should have been covered? 4. Our transmissions are temp controlled and set to run at the temps we see on the dash (200 degree range)and while I'm old school and agree (and know form past experience with my Old YJ / 3 speed trans and a huge trans cooler that cooler is better) cooler temps make the trans last longer but most Engineering technical data out there sort of proves that it does us no good to add things like trans cooler or cooling pans on our JL's or JT's since it won't have the same effect as in the good old days of basic transmission cooling (pre-emissions stuff). The cooling fins on your new trans pan may help cool the returning fluid going into the pan but it makes no difference since the temp control valve is sensing the fluid temps and making cooling adjustments as needed to keep our fluid in that 200 degree range before returning to the transmission hence the reason there isn't a big aftermarket following of coolers, pans, etc... Have you modified your jeep in some way to compensate for the cooling valve setting? Again, much respect but I'm really curious because as mentioned, I'm old school and have always had trans coolers on my previous vehicles and targeted 175 to 180 and took several of my vehicles including my 2005 hemi powered dodge durango to 287000 miles with ZERO issues before I sold it to buy the wife a smaller vehicle (since our kids are college age and no longer needing to rush to soccer and cheer practice every day lol.) I researched the mess out of this topic 3 years ago when I bought my JLUR and hit dead ends every time with the same thing being told to me by everyone (professionals in the industry) I interacted with. Do you have new "secret" information on that claim being incorrect? 😀
1) the mopar oem transmission fluid is the correct best fluid to use. It is full synthetic. I was mistaken. I get the amsoil cheap and have it collecting in the shop. It’s cheaper for me to run that since the lab results are really positive. As for filling the trans after I installed the pan, I just filled the trans from the fill hole untill it started coming out. Then I started the car and added more again. Once the trans was at the temperature required and all the gear changes were completed I checked the fluid level with it running and it was fine. That temperature check range and gear shifting process is all jeep/mopar procedure from the service manual. Very similar to our honda 10 speed process. 2) I normally use my fluid pusher for gear oil at work. All the honda fluid have their own pump per fluid type too. Did not want to mix gear oil into my transmission from my fluid pusher. So I used a new one for this fluid. Yes it did mix with the oem fluid that is everywhere inside the cooler and trans and lines / torque converter. 3) I wanted a drain bolt on the transmission pan. That was the main reason I wanted to install the pan. Doing the filter every other service makes more sense to me. Never had cooling issues with the transmission temperature. I’m sure the extra 1.5 quarts help more then the little cooling fins that won’t work if you have skid plates anyway! Thanks for the feedback!
@@WolfOverlandrespect on the reply, i can see how skipping some steps may seem confusing to some that are not familiar... maybe a longer video, with an explanation of the filling process but what you showed was pretty clear imo... but for sure, respect for what you do, not critical at all. this vid helps
@@WolfOverland yeah, JK, muffler in the way of do the rear screws, so difficult to get in there, a 1/4” socket with an extension and swivel barely does it, but at least it has a dipstick. There are 2 types of transmissions, the early JKs (2007-2011) the 42RLE and the NAG1 (2012-2018). I have 2 JKs 2010 Rubicon & 2016 75th Anniversary Edition and I have a JLU Rubicon too (2020), and heard “rumors” the filter is built into the pan, so a new pan must be ordered ?
@@TheSchmed yes. You have to order a new pan. That’s why I did this video. The aftermarket pan lets you have more fluid and cooling fins and a replaceable filter if you do drop the pan
@@WolfOverland yep, I’ll do that at 50k miles, right now at 14500 miles. so a while to go. One thing I do notice with the JLs, they seem to go into gear much harder than the JKs, it seems you must let it warm up for a minute or so until the idle drops below 1000RPM, or that shift into reverse is met with a bit of force. It’s my daughters rig and I told her when you first start it, wait a minute or so before you leave. I’m tempted to check it if it is a bit low from the factory, which I see some people did report. It uses that light blue ZF fluid ? I have some as I also have a Mazda CX-5 that uses it, but I am big on OEM only fluids for transmission service.
Never mix the red and green fluid together. Not good. Also, you left it low. It should have been coming out in a slow trickle and only a tiny bit oozed out which could have been what was on the fill plug. Should have added a bit more to see that trickle.
mine is a 2021 jl i did mine it also took 61/2 qts made a big difference in the way it shifts. must have been low from factory. i bought a sheet of exhaust heat shield wrap and installed it on exhaust next to ppe trans pan. it is the new style that's been cut out for exhaust pipe to run under . used a home made vacuum jar hooked up to a a/c service vacuum pump then used a clear 1/8 plastic hose that i stuck into fill hole. sucked every drop of fluid out of pan ,jar was a 1 gallon with metal lid that i soldered some fittings to connect a/c charging hoses
That’s awesome I was hoping the fill plug on the passenger side wasn’t the only one that one had me irritated lol. Have you had the fuel pump recall done yet if so what did that end up changing. Wondering what they changed on the cp4 to make it better.
Thanks for watching. I’m on the list for the fuel pump recall. Hopefully it’s soon! Not worried about it.
Thanks for the video. It was very helpful.
I just installed the PPE pan on my JLU with a 3.6l gas. I noticed you filled the transmission with a plug on the drivers side. The instructions show the plug on the rear passenger side. I used the rear passenger side and full was adding 5.75 qts.
Nice. Yes I’ve seen the 3.6l gas instructions from that side.
@@WolfOverland any reason you used the driver's side? It looks higher.
I believe the passenger side plug is intended for the 2dr JL @@dougg8280
@dougg8280 more then likely, it's because our giant EPA exhaust is probably blocking the passenger side plug
Diesel (and 392) have 8HP75 with the fill plug on drivers side.
3.6 and 2.0 gas have Torqueflite 850RE with fill plug on the passenger side.
@9:00... I've heard that you want to make sure your transmission is level rather than the vehicle... actually putting a little level on the face of the trans where the gasket would contact (or parallel to it). This usually means the back end is significantly higher than the front... otherwise you'll get fluid trickling out the fill plug prematurely and be a bit underfilled... that's my understanding anyway...
Gray area but good point. Typically they say the car needs to be level to check. I check it on the alignment lift or on the flat ground as the lift can not be level front to back.
Suspension lifts that remove the factory rake of the suspension can technically alternate to but by what degree I’m unsure.
@@WolfOverland Zf transmission company says to make sure the transmission pan rail is level. Just like he said.
Thanks for the video.
Why not replace the gasket?
How do you service the filter? Do you wash it or replace it?
The filter is replaceable. Ppe sells their filter on the website if you do the ppe pan.
Mopar sells a filter too if you’re doing their factory pan.
As far as the gasket you can reuse it or replace it. It’s like same heavy duty gaskets they use on the front diff. Metal base with a heavy duty rubber seal.
I plan on replacing it when I do the filter in about 60k miles.
Thanks for watching.
@@WolfOverland The difference between PPE and mopar stock is this. PPE is an aluminum pan with a replaceable filter. The Mopar is a stock plastic pan and the filter is NON REPLACEABLE. (MOPAR PAN IS always REPLACED because its plastic and a hard filter that is not changeable) I went with the PPE one.
I use the same vac/fill system you use and I use it to suck the fluid from the pan before I loosen the pan to drain it. This saves messes. I would put the magnets in the new pan even though it appears to be aluminum, it won't go anywhere and will attract small metal particles. I tried to order the pan and it's out of stock. Thanks.
@@elrobo3568 great idea. Thanks for sharing
Do you have a link for the service instructions print out that you showed in this video?
It’s from alldata. They charge a subscription so I can’t post it without getting suspended
@WolfOverland okay thanks man!
I was thinking about adding this, but the warranty gets me nervous. If something happens to the trans even for other reason they’ll blame it on the pan filter maybe voiding.
Meh. Swap the old pan back on.
@@WolfOverland Good idea lol! It's going to be a rare chance with how I care for me stuff and use it.
@@Good-luck-Jonathan same. I put off this project for too long.
The trans fluid was definitely due thanks to the old trans fluid I sent out to the lab to have analyzed. The recc due to the way the vehicle is operated. They recc sending another sample at another 40k miles.
I figure if I was going to drop the mopar trans pan and pay all that money for another mopar pan I should just put that to the ppe pan anyway.
@@WolfOverland I'm going to do a drain and fill every 10k. It at 1300miles but thinking to do a filter and drain to clean the wear in metals? The OEM oil is pretty good but I also may switch to Redline Oil or Amsoil. Did you have any shift issues with the Amsoil?
Just found out the OEM ATF is a synthetic blend? Why did they do that ??? It can run very hot in the summer and towing? I will do Amsoil OE like you did if you had no issues with it?
Good job on the vid. The special key for the pan takes a t30 socket?
Yess
Thanks
question when you put it in 2ad gear and give it a little gas doesnt the car need to have the rear wheels off the ground i was going to use ramps to do the job at home in the basement
Yes. Rear tires have to be in the air.
thats what i was thinking thanks for your quick reply@@WolfOverland
This is great for your trans but i am going to put in whatever i can suction out for now ....just bought a 24 compass 2.0 , are those engines reliable if maintained?
Yes.
At 8:34 it did you really start it up dry? It looks like you started it up without ANY fluid??
@@Tunaslayer1 lol no.
@@WolfOverlandso did you add some fluid before you started filming? Just curious on that part too. Looking to change my fluid here soon. This was a pretty good video on how to do so.
@@DatboiT00 no. Everything was filmed
@@WolfOverland Well, the initial fill didn't make the directors cut!!! I wonder how many people fried their transmission to wait for it to reach temp while empty???????????????
You need to make sure you edit this to include the initial cold fill!!!
Can you powder coat the PPE pan? Looks like the filter may be removable.
@@christiankendall8875 yes. The filter is serviceable. Another perk of this upgrade
Installing a ppe transmission pan on a jeep wrangler does it really reduce the temperature of the transmission?
@@aleksandarstojkovic9108 yes. I’ve recorded 5-10 degrees cooler.
why use the old gasket?
Like the diff cover gaskets they are reusable. Gone are the days of the paper / flimsy gaskets.
Curious ... your link for the fluid pusher is actually an extractor. Do they act as both?
Both
Is this recommended if I got a code P0735 I’ve cleared it and is been driving okay since
No. This is just maintenance
The trans fluid you used do they make one for the 3.6?
It depends on the transmission. I believe they use the same 8 speed on the 3.6
Great video. How long have you been running Amsoil in the trans? How did you flush the oem fluid out?
Used a fluid pusher. It’s been 15k miles so far no issues
2021 Jeep jl 3.6 transmission pan bolts . Torque spec is 8 to 9 pounds ?
I’ll have to look. Mine is a diesel. Instructions were on their website. I can check for you if you remind me at noon tomorrow by replying on here.
@@WolfOverland ok thank you 🙏
@@WolfOverland If you have time to check tonight, that would be amazing. I really appreciated. Thank you so much
@@Ben-sv9op yep just checked 8-10 foot pounds
@@WolfOverland Thank you so much. I really appreciate it
Love your channel and respect what you do for a living, but what you did in this video is a little confusing and maybe opens the door for a bit of debate. Here are my questions: 1. You stated OEM trans fluid is not synthetic? Is that really true? The whole lifetime trans life is "supposedly" due to the synthetic oil but I agree with the point of changing it at 50 or 60k. 2. You made a note "don't mix fluid" but the reality is you did mix fluid right? What I mean is our transmissions have the oil cooler and temp control valve set up. You didn't state anything about flushing the system so technically you mixed the new fluid with the OEM residual in the trans right? 3. in the video you transitioned from putting oil on the O ring to warming up the engine and didn't show or talk about the fill? Was there something specific in filling that should have been covered? 4. Our transmissions are temp controlled and set to run at the temps we see on the dash (200 degree range)and while I'm old school and agree (and know form past experience with my Old YJ / 3 speed trans and a huge trans cooler that cooler is better) cooler temps make the trans last longer but most Engineering technical data out there sort of proves that it does us no good to add things like trans cooler or cooling pans on our JL's or JT's since it won't have the same effect as in the good old days of basic transmission cooling (pre-emissions stuff). The cooling fins on your new trans pan may help cool the returning fluid going into the pan but it makes no difference since the temp control valve is sensing the fluid temps and making cooling adjustments as needed to keep our fluid in that 200 degree range before returning to the transmission hence the reason there isn't a big aftermarket following of coolers, pans, etc... Have you modified your jeep in some way to compensate for the cooling valve setting? Again, much respect but I'm really curious because as mentioned, I'm old school and have always had trans coolers on my previous vehicles and targeted 175 to 180 and took several of my vehicles including my 2005 hemi powered dodge durango to 287000 miles with ZERO issues before I sold it to buy the wife a smaller vehicle (since our kids are college age and no longer needing to rush to soccer and cheer practice every day lol.) I researched the mess out of this topic 3 years ago when I bought my JLUR and hit dead ends every time with the same thing being told to me by everyone (professionals in the industry) I interacted with. Do you have new "secret" information on that claim being incorrect? 😀
1) the mopar oem transmission fluid is the correct best fluid to use. It is full synthetic. I was mistaken.
I get the amsoil cheap and have it collecting in the shop. It’s cheaper for me to run that since the lab results are really positive.
As for filling the trans after I installed the pan, I just filled the trans from the fill hole untill it started coming out. Then I started the car and added more again. Once the trans was at the temperature required and all the gear changes were completed I checked the fluid level with it running and it was fine.
That temperature check range and gear shifting process is all jeep/mopar procedure from the service manual. Very similar to our honda 10 speed process.
2) I normally use my fluid pusher for gear oil at work. All the honda fluid have their own pump per fluid type too. Did not want to mix gear oil into my transmission from my fluid pusher. So I used a new one for this fluid. Yes it did mix with the oem fluid that is everywhere inside the cooler and trans and lines / torque converter.
3) I wanted a drain bolt on the transmission pan. That was the main reason I wanted to install the pan. Doing the filter every other service makes more sense to me.
Never had cooling issues with the transmission temperature. I’m sure the extra 1.5 quarts help more then the little cooling fins that won’t work if you have skid plates anyway!
Thanks for the feedback!
Man great observations i noticed a two of those myself
@@WolfOverlandrespect on the reply, i can see how skipping some steps may seem confusing to some that are not familiar... maybe a longer video, with an explanation of the filling process but what you showed was pretty clear imo... but for sure, respect for what you do, not critical at all. this vid helps
@@Coyote5555 thanks. Always improving! Next service I’ll have a better camera too. ✌️
@@WolfOverlandthanks brother I own a 2021 overland EcoD at 38K. Your videos are peeeeeerfect for guys like me. Please keeeeep making them!
Thought I was watching Tony Stewart at first 😂
@@matthewkirkland6497 lol. I get the “fat tony Stewart” look all the time. 🤣 if he ever needs a stunt double I would be down.
@@WolfOverland look exactly like almost 🤣. It’s an awesome double
How did you modify the fluid extractor to push the transmission fluid?
The extractor in the link has a switch to push the fluid
Excellent. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Simple compared to the JK
@@TheSchmed I don’t have much experience with the jk. Thanks for sharing
@@WolfOverland yeah, JK, muffler in the way of do the rear screws, so difficult to get in there, a 1/4” socket with an extension and swivel barely does it, but at least it has a dipstick. There are 2 types of transmissions, the early JKs (2007-2011) the 42RLE and the NAG1 (2012-2018). I have 2 JKs 2010 Rubicon & 2016 75th Anniversary Edition and I have a JLU Rubicon too (2020), and heard “rumors” the filter is built into the pan, so a new pan must be ordered ?
@@TheSchmed yes. You have to order a new pan. That’s why I did this video. The aftermarket pan lets you have more fluid and cooling fins and a replaceable filter if you do drop the pan
@@WolfOverland yep, I’ll do that at 50k miles, right now at 14500 miles. so a while to go. One thing I do notice with the JLs, they seem to go into gear much harder than the JKs, it seems you must let it warm up for a minute or so until the idle drops below 1000RPM, or that shift into reverse is met with a bit of force. It’s my daughters rig and I told her when you first start it, wait a minute or so before you leave. I’m tempted to check it if it is a bit low from the factory, which I see some people did report. It uses that light blue ZF fluid ? I have some as I also have a Mazda CX-5 that uses it, but I am big on OEM only fluids for transmission service.
@@TheSchmed I agree. Oem is best. Mopar has their own fluid you can buy from them.
Never mix the red and green fluid together. Not good. Also, you left it low. It should have been coming out in a slow trickle and only a tiny bit oozed out which could have been what was on the fill plug. Should have added a bit more to see that trickle.
Thanks!
How do you recommend getting all of the OEM green then? I plan on doing this at the end of the month and want to go AMS fluid.
@@adventure-logs you would have to drain and refill it 3-4 times or hook up to a Bg trans flush machine.
@@WolfOverland So then I'm correct assuming that the AMS fluid is compatible with the factory ATF?
@@adventure-logs amsoil fluid?