The jumper cable test worked for my 30 year old truck. I had no power inside the truck except the cab light. I was about to buy a new battery even though mine tested 12.6 volts. I turned the key on and hooked up one side of the jumper cables from the negative battery to the fender and everything came on inside. I cleaned the negative battery cable at the alternator. 5 minute fix after watching the video. Thank You so much!!!
I clipped every connector under the hood, even the ones to the battery. I replaced the Battery connectors with Brass ones, replaced a few ground cables (easier) from the body to the engine. Plugged the battery cables back, turned the ignition and all lights came on, the car started better than it used. Thank you so much. The Electricians told me I needed an ECM (Computer) and a new set of keys. Your video saved me $700. Thank you thank you thank you.
Not to get too far into the weeds of esotericism, but grounding your barefeet to the earth can create stability and homeostasis in the body as well. My 2015 Charger was having no crank issues and just as you correctly stated, it could be a faulty ground game or “Bad Earth” connection issue..Everyone should buy a multimeter and self jump battery capacity for a good educational DIY experience. Remember cars and computers are mimicking our internal human electrical system. Thanks for this..
Out of all the videos here on TH-cam about checking the ground connections, I actually understood what to do. Thank you for making it easy to understand. Have a blessed day.
@@DespairRepair So how do I test the 2007 Audi Q7 with battery being not under the hood. It's under driver seat inside vehicle. How am I to test ground using your method explain here with the multimeter?
@@Heylo7 hi and thanks for watching! Do you have remote battery connections under the hood? Also, what do you want to test? Is the engine grounded, the body, or else?
@@DespairRepair yes I have positive connection and the ground connection posts to under hood driver side of the engine bay. I want to test for ground. Using your method from what I watched in your video here. My multimeter is a cen-tech cm300 and the dials numbering on it start at 60 600 6000 etc it's not the one which let's you set multimeter to say 20 200 2000 etc mines not like that.
Finally someone that breaks it down in a simple form, I've been having some issues with my Jetta. Pretty sure it's a bad ground connection or ECM. This video helped me understand how everything goes together and how to use a multimeter as well.
Hi Dwayne, thanks for watching and for the nice comment. Glad if the video helped, we try our best to simplify. By the way, admire the skateboard skills :-)
I think my car might have a bad ground connection, I will definitely follow these steps. I am very impressed by the way you explained everything, you made it so simple to understand and easy to follow. Thank you very much.
This video solved my no crank no start totally dead car. The voltage measured on the battery terminal was 12.5 volts, however, when the negative probe was moved a few inches away from the battery negative terminal, the voltage went down to 10 volts. The problem was a rusted and corroded connector on the negative terminal. Thank you for this video. Appreciate it.
You helped me, I knew I had a good battery & the alternator was fine. I was told my battery cable was recalled. I'm stuck 400 miles from home, alone & need to get back. I cleaned the one accessable ground connection & haven't had trouble since. Thank you very much for the info. Now my serpentine belt is squealing & I must replace before my trip. I've had one blow before & it busted the water resivour & temp guage.
Good video! The jumper cable method is pretty fast. Idk about newer cars but I've also heard of people creating an additional ground on older vehicles. I suppose for a ground diagnoses in conjunction with a certain ground not easily accessible or the area of ground conection is simply too oxidized. May as well check out the condition of the positive cable while you're poking around. My truck has a slow start, takes an extra crank, bit of a lope. Charging system/battery is good, might just replace the battery cables for the heck of it, see what happens. Its 220,000 miles and a decent amount of corrosion akl along the inside of the cable. So even it doesnt solve my problem, I feel compelled to do it. Come check me out.
My Mazda 3 hatch from 2006 has this issue with rear LED(OEM) tail/stop light. Only left one turns off after pressing the brake pedal. The indicator works fine. Bought a new assembly, same issue, plugged it to the right side, same - not working. I've plugged the right assembly to the left connectors and it works fine! So the left just sometimes turns on, like in the morning or randomly....stays on but then when I press the brake pedal, turns off again. I even replaced the passenger junction box - same issue. Replaced the brake switch. Battery is new. Alternator seems fine. OBD doesn't show any fault codes. The only thing I haven't looked at is grounding, and maybe something else, I don't know anymore...
Hi, and thanks for watching! Take a look at the grounding but also at the connector that goes on the lamp. Check the pins to see if they are tight and that there's no corrosion or filth. This is a common cause of problems.
Awesome video. Im gonna try to clean all of the connections on my car tomorrow. Its a little corroded, and been having issues with my lights, air, wipers, and dash light not working. My "hand brake" signal comes on. On figured it was a bad ground so came across this and it was great! Thanks so much!
I have for decades: put a ground wire from battery to the engine and an extra ground wire from the battery to another spot to the body! And the most cold cranking lamps battery in it! And not an cheapest battery/ a good battery which co$t more $money but worth it in WINTER and BEYOND!
Replaced FIVE starters (each one lasts maybe a month!) so thanks for this very helpful video, looking for all the ground connections to see if heavy cranking is burning them up due to poor ground. Maranatha
Hi, thanks for watching, and glad if the video helped! Hope you solve the problem, a bad ground connection will fry the starter for sure. Check if you have a ground strap from the engine or transmission to the chassis or body.
Hi thanks greta video. had nothing but problems with Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo 1.2 TSI . Change Alternator and fitted new battery and still the same. However after watching your video. i checked the ground connections with a multimeter. When the car is running it should around 14.2 volts, im only getting 12.6 on the battery and the ground connection on the bodywork. But when I put the negative lead on the engine metal I get 14.6V. What does this mean? I also cleaned the ground lead.
Thanks for the informative video. After a flood, my 2016 Chevrolet Impala LTZ limited had all kinds of problems. I cleaned the gearbox, the radiator and all mechanical parts. I replaced BCM module, climate control module, instrument cluster dash panel and headlight dimmer switch. Car has a weak start and Reverse lights ONLY work with brake lights. I'll use your video to troubleshoot.
so i snapped the negative wire and just wedged it in the screw that was holding it at its base the car was starting fine but i am getting that slow crank to the point my car wont start battery tested good
Hi and thanks for watching! Well, if the contact is good and if the wire is fully wedged then it should work OK but put on a proper connector as soon as possible. Just in case, bypass the ground connection with a jumper cable (from the minus battery terminal to the engine) and then try cranking. if it's still slow, I would check the starter and the connections to it.
@@DespairRepair thanks for replying and will do i had radio issues as well pulled the fuse and its been fine but last week there was a very bad storm minus 7 thats when i started to have issues but will do i might bang on the starter as well
@@frickysuavve247 you're welcome and hope any of this helps. Just wanted to ask if the battery is OK, I'm asking since it's cold, low temperatures can also cause weak cranking. Try banging also can't hurt 🙂
@@DespairRepair well i took the battery to autozone they said it was good and i have a jumpstarter box as well which also isnt doing the trick which makes me think its something else im not to good with the electrical engineering tbh lol
@@frickysuavve247 well then, I would definitely check the starter, especially if it's a high-mileage car and any maintenance hasn't been done on the starter.
Hello. When i put the start buttons the lights come on but doesn't attempt to start af if somethings interfering withe the power can you please lead me into the right direction. Ty
Guru here, be mindful when redesigning (adding wires) to any vehicle. Often voltage drop and or path is used to do interesting things. Like when cranking an 80s ford a brake light bulb test is accomplished on dash bulb (the front rear proportion valve indicator) to many charging systems measuring voltage drop accros a certain length of wire in the ground path to regulate charging current. Bigger is not always better when rewiring one of these type of systems.
I have a 2005 ford escape xlt and driving home tonight all the interior lights, high beams. Blinkers shut off but the car kept driving! When I shut the car off and turn the key the interior lights and Blinkers everything works but when the engine starts all the electrical stuff shut off! U have an idea you can help me with? Thanks
Hi and thanks for watching! It could be a couple of things but I would first check the battery clamps that they are tightened and clean. Also, I would check the cables coming to the clamps. After that, I would consider checking the ignition switch.
Thank you for the informative film. Today my husband and me drove to another city like 40-50 miles. After a short stop (~ 20 min) I couldn't start the car: lights came, no crank, then everything goes off. I tried 3-4 times, then husband vent to see what is going on under the hood when I was trying to crank the car. He saws some smoke coming from the positive terminal connection to the battery. The smoke appeared on attempt to crank (it lasted a ~ 1 sec, a little bit of smoke). I wanted to see it as well, so husband was cranking, I saw that smoke, brushed the terminals w/metal wire, but still no crank. We were about to call AAA, but then he tried again and the car started like nothing happened before. We came back home (another ~50 mi). I checked the battery like 1 month ago at NTB place, it was good. The battery is almost 5 years old. On another battery (it went bad on another car), I've head an opinion at Autozone that a battery is not good in 5 years, so I went to see what deals they have at NTB. But at NTB they insured me that there is no need to buy a new battery or have a spare one with the battery I have. May I know your opinion what could cause that smoke. It is obviously overheating, but what causes it?
Hi and thanks for watching! I would again check if the battery clamps are clean (the inner side that connects to the terminals) and that the clamps are properly tightened. Smoke and even sparks can appear if this is the problem. Hope this helps.
Thank you. It really was bad grounding wire from body to motor. That voltage meter test solved it. It caused a ton of problem, destroyed charger, fuses, etc. Good channel.
Good video. My car has problems with the batterie. The alternator is working propperly i think because i measure about 14 v when i start the engine . But after one night it go s from for example 12,5 V to 12, 1 V the next morning and if i go to a camping with the slide doors a long time open it totally empty i cant start the engine. I was looking for parasetic drain as a cause but coulden't find one. One more questions if you disconnect the negative the computer wil lost its memory?
Hi, thank you for watching! To be honest I doubt it. With a high voltage problem check the alternator first, namely the voltage regulator or stator. Hope this helps!
Hello I got a 1999 Dodge ram 2500 I got a code po462 low voltage on the sending unit how can I fix the gas gauge gas light is always on I changed the cluster and fuel pump and sending unit????
I have a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder. My coils got really hot it almost scalded my fingers when I touch them. This happened whenever I turned the ignition to 'ON'. It actually melted one of my ignition coils and threw a p1320 code for ignition. After I cleaned and tightened my engine ground, that issue went away. Had to get another coil and O2 sensor , then the P1320 went away.
Hi Brennen and thanks for watching! That kind of fault can be caused by a number of things. The first that come to mind are a bad starter solenoid, worn-out starter brushes, worn-out ignition switch, loose or corroded contacts to the starter solenoid, and so on. If the starter is OK, try checking the battery terminals (if there tightened and cleaned) and the main ground connections. Hope this helps!
Last winter I had a no start due to corrosion inside the battery terminal cable. I'm back to having no start and thanks to this I know it's not that but still don't know why it's not starting.
Awesome video. I just was curious if bad grounds can cause the ecm code P0603 to come up because a few months ago a mobile mechanic forgot to put the washers back on the alternator when replacing an old exhaust manifold. So I had to get a new battery fuse for the positive side cable. Ever since then the code P0603 has been coming up and I’m trying to figure out what cable or whatever might have went bad so I can get it fixed?
Hi, thanks for watching and for the kind comment! Regarding the washers, they need to be there but if the contact is good, it missing should not cause a problem. Yes, a bad ground connection can cause this kind of error code and this is certainly worth checking. But I would first check all of the basic connections like the battery clamps, alternator connections, the mentioned fuse and every other place that has to do or is near the repair that was made. in lots of cases, like that, a bad or missing connection may cause a problem. Hope this helps at least a bit. Best of luck with the repair.
@@DespairRepairyea I forgot to say that my vehicle from time to time jerks/stalls and that’s what I’m trying to fix along with the code P0603 going away.
@@cameronmorgan0203 well that could literally mean dozens of things. But if the ECM doesn't function properly then that's what will happen since the computer probably can't regulate the air/fuel mixture, ignition system, and else. This doesn't help anything, but again: I would check the repair that was recently made. Not saying it was a bad repair but if everything worked good before that, it is the main suspect. I would check if everything is tightened, well connected, properly returned into place, and so on.
@@Bizzaro500 probably, a bad ground connection is one of the most overlooked problems but one that can cause a lot of issues, especially with today's electronic systems.
Just adding on to the heavy cranking - In some cases, your car may not crank at all! My VW Tiguan has a snapped earth cable from the body to the gearbox and this caused it to not crank at all - Replacement cable coming this weekend and I will attempt to fix this. Do I need to disconnect the Negative terminal when doing this?
Hi Lewis and thanks for watching and sharing your experience. It would be best to take off the negative battery clamp just in case. It's safer that way, both for you and the car.
9:11 my car doesn’t show any sign of electricity. But if i put a jumper there is electric and i can start the engine. Whats the problem? I didn’t change the battery within a year. I asked a worker he said the old battery is fully power and could last for two years more
Hi, Blender videos, and thanks for watching! You've probably already done this but did you check the battery terminals and clamps? Are they tightened and clean?
@@DespairRepair Thanks man, the problem were in the ground wire and the negative wire. They really were dusty. I cleaned them and tight them good then all works fine.
Very good information . There was a couple times where I couldn’t see what area you were referring to because you were in the way . Do I. Heck a Cadillac 2913 xts premium the same way?
Can you use the same ground connection on the firewall to the engine and from the battery to the engine two wires ran one from the battery to the engine and one from the body to the engine can you use the same one on the engine or do you have to have two different placements for the ground cables I hope that that makes sense it's pretty much I have the battery from the negative run into the engine and the one from the firewall running to the engine
Hi and thanks for watching! In my opinion, yes you can, provided that the connection is done properly and that the cable is thick enough. Also, there should be enough place to tighten everything. All in all, if it works, I'd leave it alone. Hope this helps
Could you have a bad ground even though the car starts right up and runs without any issues? I have extreme flickering of lights & power windows don’t work.
Hi Vanny and thanks for watching. Yes, it is possible if they're connected to the same ground loom and it doesn't have a good connection. I'm talking about looms connected from the wiring installation to the car body.
I have the heavy cranking “womp womp womp.” I replaced the battery and alternator. But my connections looks a little exposed. When I was cranking it my negative ground started smoking and turning red which indicated I have a problem there. I’m not sure if my alternator have a connection problem either.
Hi and thanks for watching! If the engine isn't properly grounded then more or less anything won't work properly including the alternator. Maybe best try connecting a jumper cable from the minus terminal of the battery to a convenient metal part of the engine and see if the connection is the problem. There is a part of the video showing that I think. Hope this helps.
My ground strap bolt on the engine broke from the head on the engine block and off course I don't have the tools 2 get the rest of the bolt out. How will it affect my Jeep Compass? I was able to kind of secure 1/2 of the strap end 2 another bolt on the engine, but it is not as it should be! Thanks for your time!
Hi and thank you for watching! I think you should be fine provided that the engine starts well (there's no heavy cranking). Half of the strap should be enough for the installation to function properly. I've had these kinds of cases where I needed to improvise, looks bad but functions well. But if you want to be 100% sure, buy a new strap, make a brand-new connection, and call it a day. Hope any of this helps
MR. Despair Repair, thank you for helping me to understand bad ground connections on cars. I am currently restoring a 1986 Toyota Camry Le in Baltimore, Maryland.
Thank you sooo much! I don't think I have this problem but the information is sooo useful. It will save hours of looking for an electrical fault... I have similar symptoms to those below, and I think it maybe the alternator, but this information will help eliminate a lot of possibilities! ... And so easy to understand.. I am definitely subscribing 👌
Amazing video!!! Thank you! Just one question, is an ABS problem could be a consequence of a bad ground connection? I'm struggling finding why my ABS has problems without having any faulty code from the diag Cheers
Hello! Can you help me? I have car audio system and weird issues. My radio losing rca output (radio have custom instalation so radio have good power), and bass is bad. everything is done as it should be and checked. Next problem is voltage on my AMPS body, all amps have voltage, so amps are 100% ok. I have 3 ground points (6x 50mm2 wires) The problem is definitely in this car. Car is Mazda 6 2007r. Ground from body alt, engine, batts are perfect. I cleaned some more grounds under air filter. I don't see any more points. I once noticed that the orginal car fuses under the hood were tarnished I cleaned them , but problem back very fast, after a month they still looked the same as before. What to check and what to try in such a situation? thanks so much! ,
Hi, and thanks for watching! If I were in your place, I'd connect a cable directly from the minus battery terminal to the minus connection of the radio or other appliance that you think causes problems. This way you'll have a starting point for solving the problem. It could be lots of things, for instance, one weak contact inside a connector can be a problem.
I changed the starter it all started when my radiator blow and after that my car won't start then I changed the faucet on positive terminal and it burned the fauce now I don't know what else
This is very informative I will try these steps to find the problem, my power windows are working weird by pressing the button it goes down then up then down again, also interior lights are sometimes not working and the radio, the battery is brand new and the alternator was fully restored/repaired. Could this be the ground problem?
@@DespairRepair I checked today with the multimeter everything was fine the batterry an the alternator.. But when I checked the radio wiring sometimes it shows around 6 volts thats when radio wont turn on but when it does Its at normal value 12volts.. What could be the problem?
@@roberthengeric1953 to be honest there could be a couple of things. Even at 6 volts, it should show something. Did, you try to connect the multimeter between the ground and the plus connection, what's the voltage? Also, did you try to connect between the plus and ground somewhere else on the car? Is there another connector somewhere deeper in the installation?
@@DespairRepair Only the button lights light up on the unit but they flicker.. tried to connect the multimeter to the ground but Its still 6v, i will try to hook it up on different ground. Thank for the help!❤️
Ok,great content and very clear. I recently installed a new rádio on my car and it's been a bumpy ride since.the radio will shut off and turn back on if i use the ac or sometimes if simple the fan turn on.i was parked yesterday and the whole car shut off,pls let me know what you guys think it is Thank you
Hi Tom and thanks for watching! I would check (if you already haven't) the battery terminals for a good connection. Also, try checking the power supply to the radio (+) wire.
My car radio turns off when I hit the brakes. Sometimes it goes off when I put the car in reverse or turn on the blower. Lights are flickering. Long start. Battery is 11.4 while running, down from 13. Corolla 2013. I don't know where the engine ground is, only the battery ground.
@@DespairRepair It started after my *brand new* alternator was only 2 or 3 months old! I installed the alternator myself. But tensioner is bent a little which means that the belt could potentially get looser or tighter while driving.
@@gabe6281 well, it's possible but then there's some serious belt slipping. And even if there is, the voltage should be above 11,4 volts. With a loose belt but with a good alternator, you should get at least 13 to 13,5 volts until you turn on the light for instance.
I am working on a 2018 navigator that keeps burning the led module for one headlamp then eventually the other side goes away too. How could I trouble shoot this ? The scanner shows short to ground on lighting system. It was in an accident and I repaired it.
Hi and thanks for watching! That's a tricky problem. Since there was an accident the first thing I would do is check all the wiring looms around where the accident happened (check for cuts or damages from the accident). Also, I would check all the connectors and check for misconnected wires. From personal experience, in case of accidents and body work done after that, this is the number one reason for problems. Hidden damaged wires, badly connected wires, and misconnected wires. I would use a tester and check the light connector and see if the power input and ground is OK. I hope any of this helps.
I have an 03 Avalon with pulsating headlights,dim headlights at idle,dome lights and now the instrument cluster is slightly pulsating especially bad on cold nights.Ive replaced alternator,battery no help.They pulsate when car is on but at one certain pace all in sync,press accelerator stays same doesn't speed up im out of options does this sound like failing ground connections?
Hi and thanks for watching! It could be the ground connection and it is definitely worth the check. But it all seems to me more like an alternator issue but you've written that you've replaced it. Is it new, is the voltage regulator on it new?
@@DespairRepair Yes its a brand new Remy i took the Toyota alternator that was on it autozone yesterday they bench tested it "Passed" ..it was doing same thing with it
@@DespairRepair Not with a voltmeter but i got this fixd app i dont how reliable it is but it'll show charging at startup anywhere from 13,7 to 14.3 until it gets to running temp then drop to about 13.4 and stay steady at this at idle..the battery will struggle to stay at 12.5 i can shut engine off it'll drop to 12.2 and 3,flip headlights on for 30 seconds it falls down to 11.5 and 6 immediately..could battery be just not sufficient enough? Like its working the alternator a lot to keep it charged to spec its a brand new Walmart battery which means nothing really ive not had much luck from those to be honest
@@roltyd22 well in my opinion that's the problem (and if I understood correctly). The voltage must be the same (14 to 14.5 volts), when the engine is idling and at full revs. If it fluctuates from 13.4 to 14.3 that's why the lights pulsate. It could be the battery but if it holds 12.5 volts when the engine is turned off then the battery should be OK. I would recommend testing the alternator again. But this time try testing the voltage on the car if possible, and if you can reach it with a multimeter. See if the voltage fluctuates at that point. If not, then the alternator is OK. If it is, then the alternator or voltage regulator is the problem. I'm mentioning this since there might also be some power loss or a bad connection from the alternator to the battery.
my voltage likes to spike randomly i have a 2 amps and a 15’ woofer in my car along with a 220amp alternator it seems to be thst it likes to spike the voltage randomly sometimes when i a accelerate im thinking bad grounds or my pcm cause both my alternators have done it for whatever reason so it can’t just be bad regulator over and over again
I didn’t know about the jumper cable trick, I need to try that! I did a head gasket job and had a long period of time where I wasn’t working on it so I can’t figure out so far where two of the (supposedly ground) terminals go. I bought a new battery so if it works after I do that trick then I’ll be able to run it while I’m waiting to find where those wires are supposed to go. Even my OEM shop manual didn’t list those points, maybe they’re in a different area of the manual. Maybe I’ll be able to find a junkyard car I can reference. I was having other issues like my dashboard flickering, being dim, or even spazzing like the needles and the lights, those were likely the ground wires I had touching the engine being sporadic.
Hi Wyatt and thanks for watching! Yeah, it's a good first-aid measure, helped me a lot a couple of times. Most manuals (even the professional ones) don't have these points stated, why I don't know, as they are very important. I would first look at the connection from the battery to the car body and from the body to the transmission or engine. Some cars don't have a ground connection from the body to the engine/transmission, it rather relies on, for instance, the connection made by screws on the engine mounts (which can also cause ground connection problems). Best of luck with the repair!
Hello! Great video. I have a question. If my car battery is in the trunk, would I use an incredibly long extension wire to ground/test the engine block and chassis? Or would I put my positive test lead to the engine fuse box? Thank you
Hi and thanks for watching! Regarding the ground connection, in most cases no. There would be power, but it wouldn't work correctly. When there's a total loss of power, the first thing I would check is the battery terminals (if they're properly connected, are they clean, damaged, etc.)
Thanks for watching! There are various methods, once you get the acid corrosion off the terminals (if there is any) you can use sandpaper, a file or even better a battery terminal cleaner.
Can a bad ground make your voltage drop dramatically when you put your car in driveway or make your voltage drop dramatically while AC turns on or even make your car shut off while driving...My Alternator is good and I have a new battery and I'm experiencing all those symptoms
Hi Danny and thanks for watching! It is possible for sure although I think there would be other symptoms present besides that. If I was in your place, I would also check the other devices that are driven by the serpentine belt like the AC compressor, power steering pump, or others, depending on what car you drive.
Same here i can’t figure out why my car drops voltage when I turn the ac on or when I turn anything in the car drops voltage and if Im just in park the car slowly drops voltage it’s been a year since I drove my 350z and no one can seem to figure it out sadly
Hi thanks good video. If I found a bad ground but can’t get to it to change it ,can I just leave it and bypass to another area on the car. I have flickering lights.
Hi and thanks for watching! Yes you can, as long as your sure it has a good connection and won't interfere with other systems and appliances on the car.
I like your video but the filming and editing needs to improve... remember, Show Not Tell, ie. Show us how to locate the ground connection, and show close ups of bad ground connections. Then you'll really have a great video. Just commenting, Thanks.
Hi John, thanks for watching and for the sincere and useful comment! You're right, hopefully, in the near future, we'll improve the quality and lighting which is sometimes really off, to be sincere. Regarding the examples, we try to combine explaining and the repair as much as possible. The main point is to get the point and idea of the repair to our viewers. Anyway, we hope the video helped 🙂
Thanks for the video very beneficial. My Corsa d o/s indicators working intermittently specially when is hot so thinking bad ground points. Is there always one that is responsible for the indicators I can check directly or could it be any of them?
Hi, thanks for watching, and glad if the video helped! It could be any of them, but if it's one of the main points then usually numerous problems appear at the same time.
Great tutorial! The climate control lighting in my 2009 volvo only lights up after it rains and only for a short period of time. Would checking the ground be a good place to start with this issue. Thank you!
On cold starts I hear a slight grind noise as the rpm sets then goes away . Also while driving I hear squealing even after changing tensioner and belt. Also at night there is a static behind the radio usually more noticable at night as the lights kick on automatically. Do you know what could be causing me these issues . It's a 2014 Impala Lt limited. Also on highway it doesn't coast smoothly if I let off the gas the car feels as if Im stepping on the brakes when I'm not .
@@DespairRepair hey took it to a shop they hooked up some meter reader to battery after that car seems to be driving better . What do you think the problem was?
@@1smae100 well, can't really tell you. To be honest, I don't think any kind of meter (what you're talking about might be a multimeter) would help. Did they at least tell what the problem was?
@@DespairRepair no because there was no noise smh but when I drive to work I notice a squealing when pressing down the gas pedal. I already changed the serpentine and tensioner. He said everything was good with battery and the currency. Would that tell you if the alternator is good then ?
@@1smae100 if the alternator has mechanical, not electrical damage (like the bearings or pulley for instance) the voltage will be OK but you'll get sounds similar to what you've described. It would have been good to spin the alternator rotor while the belt was removed. Also, I would spin the other pulleys too, while the belt was off. That would perhaps give you a clue of what may be wrong.
my headlights flicker when I am using my radio for a while, sometiimes causing my engine to stall and restart. I got the dealer to check, the battery and alternator is still in good condition, but they suspect the ground connection. Could you point to where I should check for my issue?
on my golf v gti i get random DTCs both oxygen sensors, ecu checksum error and many more one at a time sometimes getting back after reseting the codes and also sometimes the car takes longer to start. Could that possibly be the grounding ?
Hi and thanks for watching! Well, it could be but to be honest I doubt it. I would rather check the throttle body first especially if the Golf has a higher mileage.
Is it possible to cause problems like if the csr not running , only in 2 key position, i put the in reverse, parking sensor always works. If the machine is running its not running only in colder weather. And i have promblems with the radio too, tweeters work but none of the other speaker. Is it possible the problem is due ground cable? I have checked it and there is tons of corrosion, turned into green.
Geez mate. Where were you yesterday and the night before? Luckily we did end up diagnosing a bad earth. Another symptom of bad earth is the earth lead gets hot when cranking. Thanks for you upload champ.
Hi, thank you for watching, and nice to meet you! Yes, that's another common symptom, and thanks for sharing the information. Also, nice TH-cam channel, subscribed to it 🙂
Hi can this also cause engine performance issues? Like it causing loss of proper electricity to spark plugs, coils and fuel injectors. Only couple of symptoms I have is engine surge while driving and have noticed that with my obd scanner connected I lose voltage/connection to parts like turbo electronic wastegate and oil temperature sensor. I have seen online that the battery temperature sensor can cause surging.
@@DespairRepair Thank you for your response I will order a new ground cable see if it helps and update here to help someone else. Great info video thank you again.
@@JoseSandoval-ic5xe you're welcome and hope you solve the problem. One more tip, you can use a jumper cable and connect it from the minus battery terminal to the engine or car body and see if there's any change. This is to avoid buying a ground cable if you really don't have to.
@@DespairRepair Hi yes I did do that but it checks ok just voltage shows 12.6 with multimeter, my car has a battery sensor in the negative terminal and I've googled those control alternator output. I have checked that sensor and it gives bad readings on scanner. Don't really know if that's the issue.
Great video. I have an issue with my Octavia which says fuel regulator short to ground on the odb reader. I will check the ground connections this week. Hopefully it is this and an easy fix
very helpful video! thanks. had alternator low voltage charging and also heavy cranking! In the process of trying to find the bad ground but the video certainly points me in the right direction. thanks!
I have a low mi. Lincoln town car ,2005 with a no start in park but in neutral always, once in about 50 normal starts. I've done neutral switch, starter and battery. This has been tough to figure out! HELP!
nice video. you could have made some diagnosis eg. when the charger wont charge the battery, the ground to the engine is faulty etc. also after cleaning and before refitting - grease the connection with copper paste, to prevent the malfunctioning in the future.
Hi and thanks for watching! It all depends, does the alternator work properly, is there a parasitic drain somewhere, is there a big short circuit somewhere and so on. To be honest, I doubt that a bad ground connection would cause that kind of draining.
I had a temperature problem. The indicator always goes higher at night but everything in the engine seems fine it took me a month, this problem goes away when I use a jumper cable 😅. I kept it installed since
I have X Trail 2021, it has suddenly started having slightly flickering lamps in headlight and interior while I give gas and idle seems weak. Since it is very minor, dealership isn't able to figure it out. I checked battery voltage and alternator reading, it shows 12.8 and 14.1 respectively. Could it be a bad ground?
Hi and thanks for watching! It could be, but I doubt it to tell you the truth. It's a new car, and I would consider a ground connection problem only if any recent repairs were made that would involve taking off a ground connection. Otherwise, I'd think about checking the alternator (the voltage regulator on it) first. I would proceed with problem-solving from that point. Hope this helps
I did that ground test with the multimeter that you explained to do. I checked my battery I had roughly near 12 volts and then I checked my negative ground at the chassis and it was lower, it was like 11.8 then I went to check my ground at the transmission bolt it was also 11.8. So what does that mean if I have a voltage drop for the grounds?
I don't think so, that much difference doesn't matter. But I must say on this part that making another direct ground connection is the best way to test the problem. Like the case with the jumper cable. Just make another temporary ground connection if possible and you'll see definitely if it's the problem. This is because sometimes, under load, the ground connection may show different values. When it's under load it may lose contact, without load it shows a good reading. I'm sorry if this is confusing but I hope you get my point.
@@DespairRepair I see what you're saying, some people think more grounds are better, I could see your theory behind that but I've heard that's actually not good to put too many grounds in the engine bay, as that could interrupt the EMF electromagnetic frequency which in the short-term would be hard to notice, but in the long term it could end up causing the ECU to fry out.😫🤯🌋
My left taillight doesn't work at all ive replaced bulbs and circuit board and it will work fine for a few days and then shut off again. Could that be from a ground wire?... also my windshield wipers will stop working after about a half hour of use and ive replaced the wiper motor
@@DespairRepair its the front wipers and yeah the whole thing goes out . I also noticed when changing one of my front headlight bulbs that if I move the wire in a certain position the light goes out
You are a legend . I am going to try this tomorrow. My car crank no start and my OBD2 meter not working as well .. Will keep you updated. Thank you for a awesome video 👌
Sometimes it is about Amperage more than it is about a electrical connection. The starter uses 300 Amps headlights maybe 20 amps, so the body ground doesn't have to have a big cable to run the lights. In your car the starter is dependent on the body to ground strap to to work. I like to run a ground strap from the - negative battery post to the engine block where the starter motor is connected. Sometime there is only a small 20 amp grounding strap from body to engine. That shows as a good ground but not a large cable that the starter is needing. So it shows 12 volts on the meter. 0 ohms between negative post and body. But high resistance for the starter
Hello and thank you very much for sharing! The best ground connection is like the one you've described. Not very nice to see (in some cases)but a very effective and longlasting solution.
You are a life saver! Your video guided me right to locating the issue on my daughters Ford Escape. I know it saved me a ton of money the shop would’ve charged. The intermittent lights and battery drain problem solved with a wire brush on all surfaces of the ground connection off the negative cable to the frame. Multimeter test revealed the problem. Much appreciated Amigo!!!
Simplified video. Thank you. My battery light stays on the dashboard for like 2 to 5 minutes after starting the car before going off. Any leads? Battery Voltage is 12.8V. Also I want to believe that there is a separate ground connection between the battery and the gearbox as well.
Hi i wanted to ask, is it related to bad grounding if my car radio turn on and off randomly. I just check the wiring of the radio and it was good and the headunit also brand new. The headunit seems to be working fine on other car
What about a driving for a solid hour and then once idling, just stalls out and starts up again with no problems. This has only happened twice this month. Does it sound like a battery/ground issue?
I have a fuseable link on my pos battery connection & it keeps blowing. This is prolly my issue too huh? Cuz my windows wig out & my key fob don’t work or alarm. Gratitudes my new friend :)
Thanks, that was a great one, you can also add to check ground to ground with the ohm meter function, that can help as well to chase bad/glitchy ground to ground connection, also how to clean those ground spots to make it fully complete, otherwise I really like this really great tutorial, kuddos
The jumper cable test worked for my 30 year old truck. I had no power inside the truck except the cab light. I was about to buy a new battery even though mine tested 12.6 volts. I turned the key on and hooked up one side of the jumper cables from the negative battery to the fender and everything came on inside. I cleaned the negative battery cable at the alternator. 5 minute fix after watching the video. Thank You so much!!!
I clipped every connector under the hood, even the ones to the battery. I replaced the Battery connectors with Brass ones, replaced a few ground cables (easier) from the body to the engine. Plugged the battery cables back, turned the ignition and all lights came on, the car started better than it used. Thank you so much. The Electricians told me I needed an ECM (Computer) and a new set of keys. Your video saved me $700. Thank you thank you thank you.
You're welcome, very glad the video helped and that you solved your problem 🙂.
Thanks for watching!
Not to get too far into the weeds of esotericism, but grounding your barefeet to the earth can create stability and homeostasis in the body as well. My 2015 Charger was having no crank issues and just as you correctly stated, it could be a faulty ground game or “Bad Earth” connection issue..Everyone should buy a multimeter and self jump battery capacity for a good educational DIY experience. Remember cars and computers are mimicking our internal human electrical system. Thanks for this..
You are "AWAKE" !
What are you saying to use the Multimeter on myself ? That might actually be a good idea gotta try that
Out of all the videos here on TH-cam about checking the ground connections, I actually understood what to do. Thank you for making it easy to understand. Have a blessed day.
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
@@DespairRepair So how do I test the 2007 Audi Q7 with battery being not under the hood. It's under driver seat inside vehicle. How am I to test ground using your method explain here with the multimeter?
@@Heylo7 hi and thanks for watching! Do you have remote battery connections under the hood?
Also, what do you want to test? Is the engine grounded, the body, or else?
@@DespairRepair yes I have positive connection and the ground connection posts to under hood driver side of the engine bay. I want to test for ground. Using your method from what I watched in your video here. My multimeter is a cen-tech cm300 and the dials numbering on it start at 60 600 6000 etc it's not the one which let's you set multimeter to say 20 200 2000 etc mines not like that.
@@Heylo7 what's the problem and why are you testing?
Definitely One of the better videos I’ve seen regarding this bad ground issue. Thank you 🙏
You're welcome and thank you for watching!
Finally someone that breaks it down in a simple form, I've been having some issues with my Jetta. Pretty sure it's a bad ground connection or ECM. This video helped me understand how everything goes together and how to use a multimeter as well.
Hi Dwayne, thanks for watching and for the nice comment.
Glad if the video helped, we try our best to simplify.
By the way, admire the skateboard skills :-)
@@DespairRepair 00⁰0⁰⁰⁰⁰⁰
Did you replace the ground?
Lemme guess. Mk4 vw
Updates lol?
I think my car might have a bad ground connection, I will definitely follow these steps. I am very impressed by the way you explained everything, you made it so simple to understand and easy to follow. Thank you very much.
You're welcome, thanks for watching and for the kind words 🙂
This video solved my no crank no start totally dead car. The voltage measured on the battery terminal was 12.5 volts, however, when the negative probe was moved a few inches away from the battery negative terminal, the voltage went down to 10 volts. The problem was a rusted and corroded connector on the negative terminal. Thank you for this video. Appreciate it.
You're welcome very glad that the video helped and thanks for watching! 🙂
I have this problem, did you replace the connector?
@@mouszzy9256 no. I just cleaned it.
You give a lot of common-sense remedies to car problems, I like the way you present solutions!
Thank you for the kind words and for watching! 🙂
You helped me, I knew I had a good battery & the alternator was fine. I was told my battery cable was recalled. I'm stuck 400 miles from home, alone & need to get back. I cleaned the one accessable ground connection & haven't had trouble since. Thank you very much for the info. Now my serpentine belt is squealing & I must replace before my trip. I've had one blow before & it busted the water resivour & temp guage.
Glad the video helped and thanks for watching!
Good video!
The jumper cable method is pretty fast. Idk about newer cars but I've also heard of people creating an additional ground on older vehicles. I suppose for a ground diagnoses in conjunction with a certain ground not easily accessible or the area of ground conection is simply too oxidized. May as well check out the condition of the positive cable while you're poking around.
My truck has a slow start, takes an extra crank, bit of a lope. Charging system/battery is good, might just replace the battery cables for the heck of it, see what happens. Its 220,000 miles and a decent amount of corrosion akl along the inside of the cable. So even it doesnt solve my problem, I feel compelled to do it.
Come check me out.
My Mazda 3 hatch from 2006 has this issue with rear LED(OEM) tail/stop light. Only left one turns off after pressing the brake pedal. The indicator works fine. Bought a new assembly, same issue, plugged it to the right side, same - not working. I've plugged the right assembly to the left connectors and it works fine! So the left just sometimes turns on, like in the morning or randomly....stays on but then when I press the brake pedal, turns off again. I even replaced the passenger junction box - same issue. Replaced the brake switch. Battery is new. Alternator seems fine. OBD doesn't show any fault codes. The only thing I haven't looked at is grounding, and maybe something else, I don't know anymore...
Hi, and thanks for watching! Take a look at the grounding but also at the connector that goes on the lamp.
Check the pins to see if they are tight and that there's no corrosion or filth.
This is a common cause of problems.
Awesome video. Im gonna try to clean all of the connections on my car tomorrow. Its a little corroded, and been having issues with my lights, air, wipers, and dash light not working. My "hand brake" signal comes on. On figured it was a bad ground so came across this and it was great! Thanks so much!
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
I have for decades: put a ground wire from battery to the engine and an extra ground wire from the battery to another spot to the body! And the most cold cranking lamps battery in it! And not an cheapest battery/ a good battery which co$t more $money but worth it in WINTER and BEYOND!
Replaced FIVE starters (each one lasts maybe a month!) so thanks for this very helpful video, looking for all the ground connections to see if heavy cranking is burning them up due to poor ground. Maranatha
Hi, thanks for watching, and glad if the video helped!
Hope you solve the problem, a bad ground connection will fry the starter for sure.
Check if you have a ground strap from the engine or transmission to the chassis or body.
I had the same problem and consulted many mechanics. Some said the problem maybe the battery and others starter. I had it fixed and it's okay.
Hi thanks greta video. had nothing but problems with Skoda Fabia Monte Carlo 1.2 TSI . Change Alternator and fitted new battery and still the same. However after watching your video. i checked the ground connections with a multimeter. When the car is running it should around 14.2 volts, im only getting 12.6 on the battery and the ground connection on the bodywork. But when I put the negative lead on the engine metal I get 14.6V. What does this mean? I also cleaned the ground lead.
Thanks for the informative video.
After a flood, my 2016 Chevrolet Impala LTZ limited had all kinds of problems.
I cleaned the gearbox, the radiator and all mechanical parts. I replaced BCM module, climate control module, instrument cluster dash panel and headlight dimmer switch.
Car has a weak start and Reverse lights ONLY work with brake lights.
I'll use your video to troubleshoot.
so i snapped the negative wire and just wedged it in the screw that was holding it at its base the car was starting fine but i am getting that slow crank to the point my car wont start battery tested good
Hi and thanks for watching! Well, if the contact is good and if the wire is fully wedged then it should work OK but put on a proper connector as soon as possible.
Just in case, bypass the ground connection with a jumper cable (from the minus battery terminal to the engine) and then try cranking.
if it's still slow, I would check the starter and the connections to it.
@@DespairRepair thanks for replying and will do i had radio issues as well pulled the fuse and its been fine but last week there was a very bad storm minus 7 thats when i started to have issues but will do i might bang on the starter as well
@@frickysuavve247 you're welcome and hope any of this helps. Just wanted to ask if the battery is OK, I'm asking since it's cold, low temperatures can also cause weak cranking.
Try banging also can't hurt 🙂
@@DespairRepair well i took the battery to autozone they said it was good and i have a jumpstarter box as well which also isnt doing the trick which makes me think its something else im not to good with the electrical engineering tbh lol
@@frickysuavve247 well then, I would definitely check the starter, especially if it's a high-mileage car and any maintenance hasn't been done on the starter.
Hello. When i put the start buttons the lights come on but doesn't attempt to start af if somethings interfering withe the power can you please lead me into the right direction. Ty
Guru here, be mindful when redesigning (adding wires) to any vehicle. Often voltage drop and or path is used to do interesting things. Like when cranking an 80s ford a brake light bulb test is accomplished on dash bulb (the front rear proportion valve indicator) to many charging systems measuring voltage drop accros a certain length of wire in the ground path to regulate charging current. Bigger is not always better when rewiring one of these type of systems.
I have a 2005 ford escape xlt and driving home tonight all the interior lights, high beams. Blinkers shut off but the car kept driving! When I shut the car off and turn the key the interior lights and Blinkers everything works but when the engine starts all the electrical stuff shut off! U have an idea you can help me with? Thanks
Hi and thanks for watching!
It could be a couple of things but I would first check the battery clamps that they are tightened and clean.
Also, I would check the cables coming to the clamps. After that, I would consider checking the ignition switch.
Lesson learned. Wished I'd seen it sooner before the new battery. Thanks so much.
Thank you for the informative film. Today my husband and me drove to another city like 40-50 miles. After a short stop (~ 20 min) I couldn't start the car: lights came, no crank, then everything goes off. I tried 3-4 times, then husband vent to see what is going on under the hood when I was trying to crank the car. He saws some smoke coming from the positive terminal connection to the battery. The smoke appeared on attempt to crank (it lasted a ~ 1 sec, a little bit of smoke). I wanted to see it as well, so husband was cranking, I saw that smoke, brushed the terminals w/metal wire, but still no crank. We were about to call AAA, but then he tried again and the car started like nothing happened before. We came back home (another ~50 mi). I checked the battery like 1 month ago at NTB place, it was good. The battery is almost 5 years old. On another battery (it went bad on another car), I've head an opinion at Autozone that a battery is not good in 5 years, so I went to see what deals they have at NTB. But at NTB they insured me that there is no need to buy a new battery or have a spare one with the battery I have. May I know your opinion what could cause that smoke. It is obviously overheating, but what causes it?
Hi and thanks for watching!
I would again check if the battery clamps are clean (the inner side that connects to the terminals) and that the clamps are properly tightened.
Smoke and even sparks can appear if this is the problem.
Hope this helps.
Thank you. It really was bad grounding wire from body to motor. That voltage meter test solved it. It caused a ton of problem, destroyed charger, fuses, etc. Good channel.
You're welcome, thanky ou for the kind words and glad if the video helped 🙂
Good video. My car has problems with the batterie. The alternator is working propperly i think because i measure about 14 v when i start the engine . But after one night it go s from for example 12,5 V to 12, 1 V the next morning and if i go to a camping with the slide doors a long time open it totally empty i cant start the engine. I was looking for parasetic drain as a cause but coulden't find one. One more questions if you disconnect the negative the computer wil lost its memory?
I wonder if bad ground cabel to the engine can causes high voltage on cabels? Ore is the alternator bad?
Hi, thank you for watching!
To be honest I doubt it. With a high voltage problem check the alternator first, namely the voltage regulator or stator.
Hope this helps!
Thanks 👍 Good Video 👍
Hello I got a 1999 Dodge ram 2500 I got a code po462 low voltage on the sending unit how can I fix the gas gauge gas light is always on I changed the cluster and fuel pump and sending unit????
Can this make coils smoke if the key is in the ON position?
Hi and thanks for watching! Which coils do you mean?
I have a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder. My coils got really hot it almost scalded my fingers when I touch them. This happened whenever I turned the ignition to 'ON'. It actually melted one of my ignition coils and threw a p1320 code for ignition. After I cleaned and tightened my engine ground, that issue went away. Had to get another coil and O2 sensor , then the P1320 went away.
When cranking I usually get a click, and I have to try to crank it a few times, after 2-4 times it works. I drive a 2002 ford focus se if that helps.
Hi Brennen and thanks for watching!
That kind of fault can be caused by a number of things.
The first that come to mind are a bad starter solenoid, worn-out starter brushes, worn-out ignition switch, loose or corroded contacts to the starter solenoid, and so on.
If the starter is OK, try checking the battery terminals (if there tightened and cleaned) and the main ground connections.
Hope this helps!
Thank you! I actually understood what to do! Very informative and kept it simple! Thanks again!
Hi Jessica! You're welcome, glad the video helped, and thanks for the nice comment! :-)
This guy could be a Stunt Double for Kris Kelly on Bering Sea Gold.
This guy breaks down every details so you can understand
My rpm drips a little when I press the powerwindow switch is that also bad ground?
Last winter I had a no start due to corrosion inside the battery terminal cable. I'm back to having no start and thanks to this I know it's not that but still don't know why it's not starting.
Hi, thanks for watching and glad if the video helped
Awesome video. I just was curious if bad grounds can cause the ecm code P0603 to come up because a few months ago a mobile mechanic forgot to put the washers back on the alternator when replacing an old exhaust manifold. So I had to get a new battery fuse for the positive side cable. Ever since then the code P0603 has been coming up and I’m trying to figure out what cable or whatever might have went bad so I can get it fixed?
Hi, thanks for watching and for the kind comment!
Regarding the washers, they need to be there but if the contact is good, it missing should not cause a problem.
Yes, a bad ground connection can cause this kind of error code and this is certainly worth checking.
But I would first check all of the basic connections like the battery clamps, alternator connections, the mentioned fuse and every other place that has to do or is near the repair that was made.
in lots of cases, like that, a bad or missing connection may cause a problem.
Hope this helps at least a bit.
Best of luck with the repair.
@@DespairRepairyea I forgot to say that my vehicle from time to time jerks/stalls and that’s what I’m trying to fix along with the code P0603 going away.
@@cameronmorgan0203 well that could literally mean dozens of things.
But if the ECM doesn't function properly then that's what will happen since the computer probably can't regulate the air/fuel mixture, ignition system, and else.
This doesn't help anything, but again: I would check the repair that was recently made.
Not saying it was a bad repair but if everything worked good before that, it is the main suspect.
I would check if everything is tightened, well connected, properly returned into place, and so on.
Thank you! I have this going on right now! Changed out spark plugs, boots, break booster...
You're welcome and good luck with the repair!
@@DespairRepair Thanks, sounds like a lot of people need it from what I'm seeing on the forums!
@@Bizzaro500 probably, a bad ground connection is one of the most overlooked problems but one that can cause a lot of issues, especially with today's electronic systems.
Just adding on to the heavy cranking - In some cases, your car may not crank at all! My VW Tiguan has a snapped earth cable from the body to the gearbox and this caused it to not crank at all - Replacement cable coming this weekend and I will attempt to fix this. Do I need to disconnect the Negative terminal when doing this?
Hi Lewis and thanks for watching and sharing your experience.
It would be best to take off the negative battery clamp just in case. It's safer that way, both for you and the car.
@Despair Repair Thank you for getting back to me - Keep up the great videos, I have subbed 😊
9:11 my car doesn’t show any sign of electricity. But if i put a jumper there is electric and i can start the engine. Whats the problem?
I didn’t change the battery within a year. I asked a worker he said the old battery is fully power and could last for two years more
Hi, Blender videos, and thanks for watching!
You've probably already done this but did you check the battery terminals and clamps?
Are they tightened and clean?
@@DespairRepair Thanks man, the problem were in the ground wire and the negative wire. They really were dusty. I cleaned them and tight them good then all works fine.
@@blendervideos4974 glad to hear that and that you've solved the problem 🙂
Very good information . There was a couple times where I couldn’t see what area you were referring to because you were in the way . Do I. Heck a Cadillac 2913 xts premium the same way?
Can you use the same ground connection on the firewall to the engine and from the battery to the engine two wires ran one from the battery to the engine and one from the body to the engine can you use the same one on the engine or do you have to have two different placements for the ground cables I hope that that makes sense it's pretty much I have the battery from the negative run into the engine and the one from the firewall running to the engine
Hi and thanks for watching!
In my opinion, yes you can, provided that the connection is done properly and that the cable is thick enough.
Also, there should be enough place to tighten everything.
All in all, if it works, I'd leave it alone.
Hope this helps
Could you have a bad ground even though the car starts right up and runs without any issues? I have extreme flickering of lights & power windows don’t work.
Hi Vanny and thanks for watching.
Yes, it is possible if they're connected to the same ground loom and it doesn't have a good connection.
I'm talking about looms connected from the wiring installation to the car body.
I have the heavy cranking “womp womp womp.” I replaced the battery and alternator. But my connections looks a little exposed. When I was cranking it my negative ground started smoking and turning red which indicated I have a problem there. I’m not sure if my alternator have a connection problem either.
Hi and thanks for watching!
If the engine isn't properly grounded then more or less anything won't work properly including the alternator.
Maybe best try connecting a jumper cable from the minus terminal of the battery to a convenient metal part of the engine and see if the connection is the problem.
There is a part of the video showing that I think.
Hope this helps.
My ground strap bolt on the engine broke from the head on the engine block and off course I don't have the tools 2 get the rest of the bolt out.
How will it affect my Jeep Compass? I was able to kind of secure 1/2 of the strap end 2 another bolt on the engine, but it is not as it should be!
Thanks for your time!
Hi and thank you for watching!
I think you should be fine provided that the engine starts well (there's no heavy cranking).
Half of the strap should be enough for the installation to function properly. I've had these kinds of cases where I needed to improvise, looks bad but functions well.
But if you want to be 100% sure, buy a new strap, make a brand-new connection, and call it a day.
Hope any of this helps
MR. Despair Repair, thank you for helping me to understand bad ground connections on cars. I am currently restoring a 1986 Toyota Camry Le in Baltimore, Maryland.
You're welcome and glad if the video helped! By the way, very good car, and good luck with the restoration.
Thank you sooo much!
I don't think I have this problem but the information is sooo useful.
It will save hours of looking for an electrical fault...
I have similar symptoms to those below, and I think it maybe the alternator, but this information will help eliminate a lot of possibilities!
... And so easy to understand..
I am definitely subscribing 👌
You're welcome, thanks for watching and hope the video helps solve the problem.
Does bad ground connection to body to engine cause battery power drain ?
Hi and thanks for watching!
Not that I know of.
No. But it WILL cause a low voltage reading until it’s fixed.
Amazing video!!! Thank you! Just one question, is an ABS problem could be a consequence of a bad ground connection? I'm struggling finding why my ABS has problems without having any faulty code from the diag
Cheers
Yes, a bad ground could cause the ABS module not to communicate
Autozone can read the code for free.
@@waltersweet4595 cheers mate
@@johnoz4451was it a bad ground?
Hello! Can you help me? I have car audio system and weird issues. My radio losing rca output (radio have custom instalation so radio have good power), and bass is bad. everything is done as it should be and checked. Next problem is voltage on my AMPS body, all amps have voltage, so amps are 100% ok. I have 3 ground points (6x 50mm2 wires) The problem is definitely in this car. Car is Mazda 6 2007r. Ground from body alt, engine, batts are perfect. I cleaned some more grounds under air filter. I don't see any more points. I once noticed that the orginal car fuses under the hood were tarnished I cleaned them
, but problem back very fast, after a month they still looked the same as before. What to check and what to try in such a situation? thanks so much!
,
Hi, and thanks for watching! If I were in your place, I'd connect a cable directly from the minus battery terminal to the minus connection of the radio or other appliance that you think causes problems.
This way you'll have a starting point for solving the problem.
It could be lots of things, for instance, one weak contact inside a connector can be a problem.
@@DespairRepair Thanks! :)
For the jumper cable method… the red cable goes on a solid body metal right? And is that with the engine
I changed the starter it all started when my radiator blow and after that my car won't start then I changed the faucet on positive terminal and it burned the fauce now I don't know what else
Hi new battery xmass. Got in yesterday car has everything lights interior exterior but no dashboard lights no st etc thank you.
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
This is very informative I will try these steps to find the problem, my power windows are working weird by pressing the button it goes down then up then down again, also interior lights are sometimes not working and the radio, the battery is brand new and the alternator was fully restored/repaired. Could this be the ground problem?
Hi and thanks for watching!
It could be among other things. It won't hurt to give it a check.
@@DespairRepair I checked today with the multimeter everything was fine the batterry an the alternator.. But when I checked the radio wiring sometimes it shows around 6 volts thats when radio wont turn on but when it does Its at normal value 12volts.. What could be the problem?
@@roberthengeric1953 to be honest there could be a couple of things. Even at 6 volts, it should show something.
Did, you try to connect the multimeter between the ground and the plus connection,
what's the voltage?
Also, did you try to connect between the plus and ground somewhere else on the car?
Is there another connector somewhere deeper in the installation?
@@DespairRepair Only the button lights light up on the unit but they flicker.. tried to connect the multimeter to the ground but Its still 6v, i will try to hook it up on different ground. Thank for the help!❤️
@@roberthengeric1953 you're welcome and sorry I couldn't help more.
I wish you all the best with the repair.
Ok,great content and very clear.
I recently installed a new rádio on my car and it's been a bumpy ride since.the radio will shut off and turn back on if i use the ac or sometimes if simple the fan turn on.i was parked yesterday and the whole car shut off,pls let me know what you guys think it is
Thank you
Hi Tom and thanks for watching!
I would check (if you already haven't) the battery terminals for a good connection.
Also, try checking the power supply to the radio (+) wire.
Am not electrically incline so am very much grateful for this.
Hi, you're welcome, and thanks for watching!
awesome video! imo, everyone that drives a vehicle should know this info. keep up the good work!
Thanks for the nice comment and for watching!
My car radio turns off when I hit the brakes. Sometimes it goes off when I put the car in reverse or turn on the blower. Lights are flickering. Long start. Battery is 11.4 while running, down from 13. Corolla 2013. I don't know where the engine ground is, only the battery ground.
Hi and thanks for watching!
All of that sounds more like an alternator problem than a ground connection problem, to be honest.
@@DespairRepair
It started after my *brand new* alternator was only 2 or 3 months old! I installed the alternator myself. But tensioner is bent a little which means that the belt could potentially get looser or tighter while driving.
@@gabe6281 well, it's possible but then there's some serious belt slipping.
And even if there is, the voltage should be above 11,4 volts. With a loose belt but with a good alternator, you should get at least 13 to 13,5 volts until you turn on the light for instance.
I am working on a 2018 navigator that keeps burning the led module for one headlamp then eventually the other side goes away too. How could I trouble shoot this ? The scanner shows short to ground on lighting system. It was in an accident and I repaired it.
Hi and thanks for watching! That's a tricky problem.
Since there was an accident the first thing I would do is check all the wiring looms around where the accident happened (check for cuts or damages from the accident).
Also, I would check all the connectors and check for misconnected wires.
From personal experience, in case of accidents and body work done after that, this is the number one reason for problems.
Hidden damaged wires, badly connected wires, and misconnected wires.
I would use a tester and check the light connector and see if the power input and ground is OK.
I hope any of this helps.
@@DespairRepair thank you so much and appreciate all the advice. Everything helps. I’ll keep you up on what I find or if and when I find the problem.
I have an 03 Avalon with pulsating headlights,dim headlights at idle,dome lights and now the instrument cluster is slightly pulsating especially bad on cold nights.Ive replaced alternator,battery no help.They pulsate when car is on but at one certain pace all in sync,press accelerator stays same doesn't speed up im out of options does this sound like failing ground connections?
Hi and thanks for watching! It could be the ground connection and it is definitely worth the check.
But it all seems to me more like an alternator issue but you've written that you've replaced it. Is it new, is the voltage regulator on it new?
@@DespairRepair Yes its a brand new Remy i took the Toyota alternator that was on it autozone yesterday they bench tested it "Passed" ..it was doing same thing with it
@@roltyd22 sorry for the late reply, did you test the alternator voltage output? With a multimeter? Does the voltage fluctuate?
@@DespairRepair Not with a voltmeter but i got this fixd app i dont how reliable it is but it'll show charging at startup anywhere from 13,7 to 14.3 until it gets to running temp then drop to about 13.4 and stay steady at this at idle..the battery will struggle to stay at 12.5 i can shut engine off it'll drop to 12.2 and 3,flip headlights on for 30 seconds it falls down to 11.5 and 6 immediately..could battery be just not sufficient enough? Like its working the alternator a lot to keep it charged to spec its a brand new Walmart battery which means nothing really ive not had much luck from those to be honest
@@roltyd22 well in my opinion that's the problem (and if I understood correctly). The voltage must be the same (14 to 14.5 volts), when the engine is idling and at full revs.
If it fluctuates from 13.4 to 14.3 that's why the lights pulsate.
It could be the battery but if it holds 12.5 volts when the engine is turned off then the battery should be OK.
I would recommend testing the alternator again. But this time try testing the voltage on the car if possible, and if you can reach it with a multimeter. See if the voltage fluctuates at that point.
If not, then the alternator is OK. If it is, then the alternator or voltage regulator is the problem.
I'm mentioning this since there might also be some power loss or a bad connection from the alternator to the battery.
my voltage likes to spike randomly i have a 2 amps and a 15’ woofer in my car along with a 220amp alternator it seems to be thst it likes to spike the voltage randomly sometimes when i a accelerate im thinking bad grounds or my pcm cause both my alternators have done it for whatever reason so it can’t just be bad regulator over and over again
I didn’t know about the jumper cable trick, I need to try that! I did a head gasket job and had a long period of time where I wasn’t working on it so I can’t figure out so far where two of the (supposedly ground) terminals go. I bought a new battery so if it works after I do that trick then I’ll be able to run it while I’m waiting to find where those wires are supposed to go. Even my OEM shop manual didn’t list those points, maybe they’re in a different area of the manual. Maybe I’ll be able to find a junkyard car I can reference.
I was having other issues like my dashboard flickering, being dim, or even spazzing like the needles and the lights, those were likely the ground wires I had touching the engine being sporadic.
Hi Wyatt and thanks for watching!
Yeah, it's a good first-aid measure, helped me a lot a couple of times.
Most manuals (even the professional ones) don't have these points stated, why I don't know, as they are very important.
I would first look at the connection from the battery to the car body and from the body to the transmission or engine.
Some cars don't have a ground connection from the body to the engine/transmission, it rather relies on, for instance, the connection made by screws on the engine mounts (which can also cause ground connection problems).
Best of luck with the repair!
Hello! Great video. I have a question. If my car battery is in the trunk, would I use an incredibly long extension wire to ground/test the engine block and chassis? Or would I put my positive test lead to the engine fuse box? Thank you
Use two short cables. One between battery negative to clean .body point in trunk the second between engine bay body to engine.
for electronic glitches, would it shut my power completely off? my cluster, headlights, and engine all lose electrical
Hi and thanks for watching!
Regarding the ground connection, in most cases no. There would be power, but it wouldn't work correctly.
When there's a total loss of power, the first thing I would check is the battery terminals (if they're properly connected, are they clean, damaged, etc.)
Thank you. Well presented. Perhaps in addition provide how to properly and specially clean the connections. What substance to use?
Thanks for watching! There are various methods, once you get the acid corrosion off the terminals (if there is any) you can use sandpaper, a file or even better a battery terminal cleaner.
Can a bad ground make your voltage drop dramatically when you put your car in driveway or make your voltage drop dramatically while AC turns on or even make your car shut off while driving...My Alternator is good and I have a new battery and I'm experiencing all those symptoms
Hi Danny and thanks for watching!
It is possible for sure although I think there would be other symptoms present besides that.
If I was in your place, I would also check the other devices that are driven by the serpentine belt like the AC compressor, power steering pump, or others, depending on what car you drive.
Same here i can’t figure out why my car drops voltage when I turn the ac on or when I turn anything in the car drops voltage and if Im just in park the car slowly drops voltage it’s been a year since I drove my 350z and no one can seem to figure it out sadly
Yes, my car did that
@@lijahp1
@@visualjermm7879 mine was MAF sensor
good information. Can you tell me where I install the ground to my Ram Promaster 3500 year 2014? please thank you
at the negative battery and any screw on your car body.
Hi thanks good video. If I found a bad ground but can’t get to it to change it ,can I just leave it and bypass to another area on the car. I have flickering lights.
Hi and thanks for watching!
Yes you can, as long as your sure it has a good connection and won't interfere with other systems and appliances on the car.
I like your video but the filming and editing needs to improve... remember, Show Not Tell, ie. Show us how to locate the ground connection, and show close ups of bad ground connections. Then you'll really have a great video. Just commenting, Thanks.
Hi John, thanks for watching and for the sincere and useful comment!
You're right, hopefully, in the near future, we'll improve the quality and lighting which is sometimes really off, to be sincere.
Regarding the examples, we try to combine explaining and the repair as much as possible. The main point is to get the point and idea of the repair to our viewers.
Anyway, we hope the video helped 🙂
Thanks for the video very beneficial. My Corsa d o/s indicators working intermittently specially when is hot so thinking bad ground points. Is there always one that is responsible for the indicators I can check directly or could it be any of them?
Hi, thanks for watching, and glad if the video helped!
It could be any of them, but if it's one of the main points then usually numerous problems appear at the same time.
Great tutorial! The climate control lighting in my 2009 volvo only lights up after it rains and only for a short period of time. Would checking the ground be a good place to start with this issue. Thank you!
Hi and thanks for watching! Well, it can't hurt to check it out.
On cold starts I hear a slight grind noise as the rpm sets then goes away .
Also while driving I hear squealing even after changing tensioner and belt.
Also at night there is a static behind the radio usually more noticable at night as the lights kick on automatically.
Do you know what could be causing me these issues . It's a 2014 Impala Lt limited.
Also on highway it doesn't coast smoothly if I let off the gas the car feels as if Im stepping on the brakes when I'm not .
Hi and thanks for watching!
If I was in your place, I would check the alternator condition (namely the bearings and pulley).
@@DespairRepair hey took it to a shop they hooked up some meter reader to battery after that car seems to be driving better .
What do you think the problem was?
@@1smae100 well, can't really tell you. To be honest, I don't think any kind of meter (what you're talking about might be a multimeter) would help.
Did they at least tell what the problem was?
@@DespairRepair no because there was no noise smh but when I drive to work I notice a squealing when pressing down the gas pedal. I already changed the serpentine and tensioner. He said everything was good with battery and the currency. Would that tell you if the alternator is good then ?
@@1smae100 if the alternator has mechanical, not electrical damage (like the bearings or pulley for instance) the voltage will be OK but you'll get sounds similar to what you've described.
It would have been good to spin the alternator rotor while the belt was removed.
Also, I would spin the other pulleys too, while the belt was off.
That would perhaps give you a clue of what may be wrong.
How do you test the ground for a hard start?
my headlights flicker when I am using my radio for a while, sometiimes causing my engine to stall and restart. I got the dealer to check, the battery and alternator is still in good condition, but they suspect the ground connection. Could you point to where I should check for my issue?
on my golf v gti i get random DTCs both oxygen sensors, ecu checksum error and many more one at a time sometimes getting back after reseting the codes and also sometimes the car takes longer to start. Could that possibly be the grounding ?
Hi and thanks for watching! Well, it could be but to be honest I doubt it.
I would rather check the throttle body first especially if the Golf has a higher mileage.
When i hit a bump or close the hood hard my car shuts off. I have a loose batter terminal i hope it's that
Is it possible to cause problems like if the csr not running , only in 2 key position, i put the in reverse, parking sensor always works. If the machine is running its not running only in colder weather. And i have promblems with the radio too, tweeters work but none of the other speaker.
Is it possible the problem is due ground cable? I have checked it and there is tons of corrosion, turned into green.
Hi and thanks for watching! Whatever the case, take the ground cable off and clean it, it can't hurt, and then start from that.
Geez mate. Where were you yesterday and the night before? Luckily we did end up diagnosing a bad earth. Another symptom of bad earth is the earth lead gets hot when cranking. Thanks for you upload champ.
Hi, thank you for watching, and nice to meet you!
Yes, that's another common symptom, and thanks for sharing the information.
Also, nice TH-cam channel, subscribed to it 🙂
Hi can this also cause engine performance issues? Like it causing loss of proper electricity to spark plugs, coils and fuel injectors. Only couple of symptoms I have is engine surge while driving and have noticed that with my obd scanner connected I lose voltage/connection to parts like turbo electronic wastegate and oil temperature sensor. I have seen online that the battery temperature sensor can cause surging.
Hi, and thanks for watching! Yes, a bad ground connection can cause all of that.
It affects more or less all of the electric and electronic systems.
@@DespairRepair Thank you for your response I will order a new ground cable see if it helps and update here to help someone else. Great info video thank you again.
@@JoseSandoval-ic5xe you're welcome and hope you solve the problem. One more tip, you can use a jumper cable and connect it from the minus battery terminal to the engine or car body and see if there's any change. This is to avoid buying a ground cable if you really don't have to.
@@DespairRepair Hi yes I did do that but it checks ok just voltage shows 12.6 with multimeter, my car has a battery sensor in the negative terminal and I've googled those control alternator output. I have checked that sensor and it gives bad readings on scanner. Don't really know if that's the issue.
@@JoseSandoval-ic5xe well, if it interferes with the ground connection it certainly would.
Great video.
I have an issue with my Octavia which says fuel regulator short to ground on the odb reader.
I will check the ground connections this week. Hopefully it is this and an easy fix
Hi, and thanks for watching! Good luck with the repair and thank you for the kind words🙂
very helpful video! thanks. had alternator low voltage charging and also heavy cranking! In the process of trying to find the bad ground but the video certainly points me in the right direction. thanks!
I have a low mi. Lincoln town car ,2005 with a no start in park but in neutral always, once in about 50 normal starts. I've done neutral switch, starter and battery. This has been tough to figure out! HELP!
nice video.
you could have made some diagnosis eg. when the charger wont charge the battery, the ground to the engine is faulty etc.
also after cleaning and before refitting - grease the connection with copper paste, to prevent the malfunctioning in the future.
Hi, and thanks for watching!
We've made a video about how to check the alternator charge. You're right about the copper grease.
Thanks for sharing.
My car is not starting, I put a new battery in and within a few minutes the battery drained. Could this be because of a faulty ground? Thank you
Hi and thanks for watching!
It all depends, does the alternator work properly, is there a parasitic drain somewhere, is there a big short circuit somewhere and so on.
To be honest, I doubt that a bad ground connection would cause that kind of draining.
I had a temperature problem. The indicator always goes higher at night but everything in the engine seems fine it took me a month, this problem goes away when I use a jumper cable 😅.
I kept it installed since
I have X Trail 2021, it has suddenly started having slightly flickering lamps in headlight and interior while I give gas and idle seems weak. Since it is very minor, dealership isn't able to figure it out. I checked battery voltage and alternator reading, it shows 12.8 and 14.1 respectively. Could it be a bad ground?
Hi and thanks for watching!
It could be, but I doubt it to tell you the truth.
It's a new car, and I would consider a ground connection problem only if any recent repairs were made that would involve taking off a ground connection.
Otherwise, I'd think about checking the alternator (the voltage regulator on it) first. I would proceed with problem-solving from that point.
Hope this helps
I did that ground test with the multimeter that you explained to do. I checked my battery I had roughly near 12 volts and then I checked my negative ground at the chassis and it was lower, it was like 11.8 then I went to check my ground at the transmission bolt it was also 11.8.
So what does that mean if I have a voltage drop for the grounds?
I don't think so, that much difference doesn't matter.
But I must say on this part that making another direct ground connection is the best way to test the problem.
Like the case with the jumper cable. Just make another temporary ground connection if possible and you'll see definitely if it's the problem.
This is because sometimes, under load, the ground connection may show different values. When it's under load it may lose contact, without load it shows a good reading.
I'm sorry if this is confusing but I hope you get my point.
@@DespairRepair I see what you're saying, some people think more grounds are better, I could see your theory behind that but I've heard that's actually not good to put too many grounds in the engine bay,
as that could interrupt the EMF electromagnetic frequency which in the short-term would be hard to notice, but in the long term it could end up causing the ECU to fry out.😫🤯🌋
My left taillight doesn't work at all ive replaced bulbs and circuit board and it will work fine for a few days and then shut off again. Could that be from a ground wire?... also my windshield wipers will stop working after about a half hour of use and ive replaced the wiper motor
Hi Diego and thanks for watching!
Could be a ground wire. Are the front or rear wipers not working? Does the taillight stop working completely?
@@DespairRepair its the front wipers and yeah the whole thing goes out . I also noticed when changing one of my front headlight bulbs that if I move the wire in a certain position the light goes out
@@DiegoSanchez-ds9hk then I would rather check the connectors and the wires for a loose or broken connection.
@@DespairRepair thank you ill try that
You are a legend . I am going to try this tomorrow. My car crank no start and my OBD2 meter not working as well .. Will keep you updated. Thank you for a awesome video 👌
You're welcome and thanks for watching!
How can I fix this myself I tried following the wire but it goes into something
Hi and thanks for watching!
I'm sorry but I don't understand. What wire are you fixing, what's the problem, and into what does the wire go?
Sometimes it is about Amperage more than it is about a electrical connection. The starter uses 300 Amps headlights maybe 20 amps, so the body ground doesn't have to have a big cable to run the lights. In your car the starter is dependent on the body to ground strap to to work. I like to run a ground strap from the - negative battery post to the engine block where the starter motor is connected. Sometime there is only a small 20 amp grounding strap from body to engine. That shows as a good ground but not a large cable that the starter is needing. So it shows 12 volts on the meter. 0 ohms between negative post and body. But high resistance for the starter
Hello and thank you very much for sharing!
The best ground connection is like the one you've described.
Not very nice to see (in some cases)but a very effective and longlasting solution.
You are a life saver! Your video guided me right to locating the issue on my daughters Ford Escape. I know it saved me a ton of money the shop would’ve charged. The intermittent lights and battery drain problem solved with a wire brush on all surfaces of the ground connection off the negative cable to the frame. Multimeter test revealed the problem. Much appreciated Amigo!!!
You're welcome and very glad the video helped 🙂. Thanks for watching!
I have a 2013 f150 it cranks over great every time I turn the headlights on the closet lights dim I appreciate if you could answer my question
If you have a loose ground can the car then suddenly die 1 second when you give it full throttle? It died for a second when the antispinn kicked in .
Hi and thanks for watching!
I doubt it, in that case, I would first check the battery clamps and terminals, if they're clean and tightened.
Simplified video. Thank you. My battery light stays on the dashboard for like 2 to 5 minutes after starting the car before going off. Any leads? Battery Voltage is 12.8V.
Also I want to believe that there is a separate ground connection between the battery and the gearbox as well.
I have a 97 mustang, when it's cold outside and I start it up the wipers come for a cycle. any idea what could fix that? everything else is great.
Hi i wanted to ask, is it related to bad grounding if my car radio turn on and off randomly. I just check the wiring of the radio and it was good and the headunit also brand new. The headunit seems to be working fine on other car
Hi and thanks for watching. In that case, I don't think so.
What is your take on the big 3/big 4 electrical ground/charge upgrade?
Is there any way of you helping me find out what all grounds I have on a 2011 dodge grand caravan 3.6 L V6
Very clear and concise review of how to check ground connections. Thanks very much!
You're welcome, thanks for watching and for the kind comment 🙂
What about a driving for a solid hour and then once idling, just stalls out and starts up again with no problems. This has only happened twice this month. Does it sound like a battery/ground issue?
Hi Adam and thanks for watching!
To be honest, doesn't really sound like a ground connection problem.
I have a fuseable link on my pos battery connection & it keeps blowing. This is prolly my issue too huh? Cuz my windows wig out & my key fob don’t work or alarm. Gratitudes my new friend :)
Thanks, that was a great one, you can also add to check ground to ground with the ohm meter function, that can help as well to chase bad/glitchy ground to ground connection, also how to clean those ground spots to make it fully complete, otherwise I really like this really great tutorial, kuddos
Thanks for watching, for the suggestions, and for the kind words! 🙂