me install and review of the tuffstuff one wire alternator this is the 100 amp model that i am using to replace my 40 amp. its making a huge difference.
Hey Luke, just picked up a 1978 Bronco, the battery is not charging, suspect the alt. but I know there is a ext. regulator but wondering if a 1 wire alt. is a good option? Everything is stock on this 351M or 400 not sure which I have yet? Also can you run the hot wire to the solenoid relay switch instead of to the battery? As of right now it starts right up, no manual choke on this, should I consider an electronic HEI Ignition to rid of the other Motorcraft ign box or a protronics instead? Sorry for all the questions, let me know a better way to chat. Thanks.
Can do - I actually make apps and design PCB boards and code microcontrollers and PLCs as my day job, I really need to make some in depth electrical videos!
Funny that wiring given your career but you were 17 right? Electrical systems and amp loads in cars is pretty important stuff for avoiding fires. I had an electrical fan catch fire in a car I bought once. Scary!
The original motorcraft alternator absolutely had power at the main battery post , the regulator has nothing to do with switching the main power on and off.
I have a power master 150amp one wire on 66 289 bronco with high flow crank water alternator march set charges 14volts in park lights electric heater on but once shif to drive rpm 750 voltage drop to 12volts what should alternator size alternator pulley may solve and increase voltage in drive with march hi flow water pump and crank pulley and powermaster alternator 150amp pulley 2.6 inches.
Did you have to remove the existing voltage regulator? I am going to install a one wire on my 67 mustang as part of a complete rewire with an American Autowire harness.
Can I just cut tue factory harness or trace it back and eliminate it? I bought a 140 amp tuff stuff alternator from summit, and this is my first conversion.
Thanks for the video. Was your car a generator car to begin? I Need to change my 63 Ford from generator to alternator and am wondering if the mounting brackets are going to be the same or different. Also - which alternator did you use? Thanks!
+Chuck Davis i think the brand is tuff stuff. i got it through summit. my car originally had an alternator, but only 40 amps which wasnt much when running some descent electronic ignition. also, the bearings on mine were going out pretty bad. for mine, my brackets were the same. couldnt say on something that isnt a 1965 and on small block
+ThunderHead289 Thanks again. I've been studying your videos quite a bit in preparation for a new intake and carbs. I just happened upon this one and it's also something I need to do. I really appreciate your making these for us!
I just installed this on my truck, ran great for 15 minutes, now the only thing electrical on the truck that works is the hood light...no headlights, wont turn over or anything. Any thoughts?
If you can’t install an alternator, you probably shouldn’t be attempting this at all. The only difference is removing the voltage regulator and going right from alternator to battery. Doesn’t take hours of camera angling and fighting wind noise for someone to understand that.
The truth Kills red wire on alternator for the 1 wire goes straight to the hot battery post or hot side of soilenoid you can put the ground from the alt on the block or the negative side of battery need right gauge wire for the 1 wire alternator or it won’t charge like it’s supposed to. The external regulator plug from the factory isn’t needed just tape up and push it out of the way.
When the engine is off battery should stay 12.6 volts and when it's running it should stay over 14.5 volts and this is normal. If battery stays at 12.5 volts when the motor is running then the alternator is defective.
Nothing.. (you asked: “What are you doing”) I was watching junkyard digs and he was a hittin a few valvy stems on a 289 Mustang a roo saying hey hit up thuneybird289 he has a hit the valve video and I donna not remember uh which one it was so I just tipped in yous namey and this sucker popped up. ( I mis-spelled own porpoise to add a lil flavor maybe make you smile a bit dude. BECAUSE YOU NEVER SMILE) Ok I’m done rant-ten rantin rant-in RANTING ahh how you sAy ? Me say you crazy horse we need heep big pow wow. Ok cya later then hunnyburd 😮
I have a 1 wire alt and I ran the wire to a 100 amp gauge and a voltmeter to the dash then from there to the positive side of the starter. Can't see the wire to the battery. its cleaner look.
FYI guys. The alternator he installed is the front shell from the Ford OEM 1G alternator. This is mated up to the GM 10si alternator. Notice the black plastic cover over the two male prongs which would have gone to the idiot light in GM products. In summary this conversion can be accomplished dirt cheap from bone yard components.
A battery reading of 12.5 is a fully charged battery ,When a battery is in a vehicle running hooked up to the altenartor it should read 14.5 volts if your system is charging in a working system while running your engine vehecle
Car voltage battery will only charge to 12.5 volt capacity the higher charging voltage isn't is the charged voltage it's the charging voltage of the altenartor when you switch it off your voltage will read battery voltage until the alternator is running again then the charging voltage of 14.5 volts will be read once again
You could opt to a 3G Ford alternator which can be wired to be a 1 wire or to use a ignition on which is handy if you want control over it or if you have an idiot light. I prefer the 3G over most aftermarket Alts because of its performance and ease of use. You can also get aftermarket versions that put out as much as 200 amps or more! It's just a pain to get a v belt version
+TheMustangmaster98 i did a little reading on that system and i may have to try that eventually. i actually had an aftermarket 3G on my 2000 mustang. (still have the car lol) and it burned the bearings down in it very fast unfortunately. looking to try it again on the Galaxie. . . .
Does your ammeter still work? I assume no, I'm trying to do this on my 73 f100,just swapped out the FE 360 to a 460 and trying to figure out how my guage can still work, also just eliminating the wiring harness off the voltage regulator. ..any info would be great, great videos man thanks
I bought the same alternator a couple days ago, and it was delivered today. I can't wait to install it on my 1964 Mercury, It should be a big improvement vs the old 40 amp alternator.
Southern Mechanics hey i just installed my one wire voltage regulator on my new alternator for my 63 comet. Im now blowing fuses when all my accessories running. Plus after market stereo can you give me any advice.
How has this alternator worked out for you long term? Thinking of installing one in 70 mustang. Ive tried the one wire conversion for my 3 wire and its cooking my battery at 18 volts going down hwy! Looking at the Jegs one wire alternator is that what you installed?
Mine is made by tuff stuff - I got it through amazon or summit. It’s a hybrid GM rear with ford front. Search “Thunderhead289 302 pulleys” I talk more about it in that video!
I am a new subscriber as I just now found your channel. My understanding is on a one wire alt it is not charging unless the rpm reaches a certain level. Not sure how true that is. You have interesting vids. Keep up the good work.
+Jim Buford they have a trigger that somehow senses rpm. they arent bad, but arent the best. when i did this and made the video i was much better read on the subject. they dont pull amp unless they are rotating though, so they will not, and have not from my experience, drain the battery while sitting. thanks for the friendly words btw
My one wire alternator needs to get turned on or "Excited" once the engine is started. This is done by tapping on the throttle for a second. With the voltage gauge that I installed, you'll see the voltage jump from whatever the battery voltage may be, 12 volts or so, up to the alternator's output voltage of around 13.8 to 14.3 volts. I removed my AMP gauge because it didn't have any fuse protection and actually shorted out and caused the wire harness to catch fire. Because of this lack of circuit protection and the size of the wire needed for today's cars to use an amp gauge the voltage gauge is now found in most cars and trucks.
+Charles Georgoudis that would be better than these. its sketchy how they will kick on if they sense a momentary voltage drop. granted they will switch off after a bit if they dont spin, but still. working very well so far and very pleased. after installing it i can definitely tell the ignition wasnt getting as much power as it wanted.
ThunderHead289 My Alt. is a PowerMaster. It's a 100 Amp and can be wired either one wire or as a standard alternator. I don't know why somebody would want to do that, but you can. It has a built in regulator, so you can unplug the external unit and remove it. I've had it for years and it still works great. The paperwork does express that the ground lead must be at least as large as the positive lead to the battery. Good luck.
ThunderHead289 thank you. I’m putting on a Powermaster 100 amp v belt. I hope I don’t have the squealing problem. I can’t run a dual pulley set up as I have AC and power steering. Going on a 69 302. I guess I better get the belt darn tight!! I like your channel.
Hey Luke, just picked up a 1978 Bronco, the battery is not charging, suspect the alt. but I know there is a ext. regulator but wondering if a 1 wire alt. is a good option? Everything is stock on this 351M or 400 not sure which I have yet? Also can you run the hot wire to the solenoid relay switch instead of to the battery? As of right now it starts right up, no manual choke on this, should I consider an electronic HEI Ignition to rid of the other Motorcraft ign box or a protronics instead?
Sorry for all the questions, let me know a better way to chat. Thanks.
Love your videos. You should do a video on how to wire a remote fuse box and relay series for accessories. That would be good
Can do - I actually make apps and design PCB boards and code microcontrollers and PLCs as my day job, I really need to make some in depth electrical videos!
Funny that wiring given your career but you were 17 right? Electrical systems and amp loads in cars is pretty important stuff for avoiding fires. I had an electrical fan catch fire in a car I bought once. Scary!
You need to upgrade you battery cable to alt if its hot. I put a 0 gauge on mine.
hot.. as in voltage, not temp.hot
He’s not talking temperature, he meant active wire.
The original motorcraft alternator absolutely had power at the main battery post , the regulator has nothing to do with switching the main power on and off.
I have a power master 150amp one wire on 66 289 bronco with high flow crank water alternator march set charges 14volts in park lights electric heater on but once shif to drive rpm 750 voltage drop to 12volts what should alternator size alternator pulley may solve and increase voltage in drive with march hi flow water pump and crank pulley and powermaster alternator 150amp pulley 2.6 inches.
Did you have to remove the existing voltage regulator? I am going to install a one wire on my 67 mustang as part of a complete rewire with an American Autowire harness.
Can I just cut tue factory harness or trace it back and eliminate it? I bought a 140 amp tuff stuff alternator from summit, and this is my first conversion.
Thanks for the video. Was your car a generator car to begin? I Need to change my 63 Ford from generator to alternator and am wondering if the mounting brackets are going to be the same or different. Also - which alternator did you use? Thanks!
+Chuck Davis i think the brand is tuff stuff. i got it through summit. my car originally had an alternator, but only 40 amps which wasnt much when running some descent electronic ignition. also, the bearings on mine were going out pretty bad. for mine, my brackets were the same. couldnt say on something that isnt a 1965 and on small block
+ThunderHead289 Thanks again. I've been studying your videos quite a bit in preparation for a new intake and carbs. I just happened upon this one and it's also something I need to do. I really appreciate your making these for us!
no problem! i just want to get the info out to clear up all the guess work. i like keeping the old american iron on the road
Does the voltmeter still work?
The 1974 F100 had an ampmeter.
When you put the 289 in the truck you kept the galaxie right!?
I just installed this on my truck, ran great for 15 minutes, now the only thing electrical on the truck that works is the hood light...no headlights, wont turn over or anything. Any thoughts?
whaat was the problem?
@@car.gems. someone put a 10amp inline fuse feeding the fuse panel halo hradlights blew it
Have a 65 fairlane 289 and I think this is my fix . Do I need voltage regulator?
No, the voltage regulator is in fact built in
show the install,not all the bs
If you can’t install an alternator, you probably shouldn’t be attempting this at all.
The only difference is removing the voltage regulator and going right from alternator to battery.
Doesn’t take hours of camera angling and fighting wind noise for someone to understand that.
Wgat did you do with the internal regulator plug in?..did you splice it into the red wire and ground to ground?
The truth Kills red wire on alternator for the 1 wire goes straight to the hot battery post or hot side of soilenoid you can put the ground from the alt on the block or the negative side of battery need right gauge wire for the 1 wire alternator or it won’t charge like it’s supposed to. The external regulator plug from the factory isn’t needed just tape up and push it out of the way.
When the engine is off battery should stay 12.6 volts and when it's running it should stay over 14.5 volts and this is normal. If battery stays at 12.5 volts when the motor is running then the alternator is defective.
Running alternator 13.8 even in semi tractor trailers Yo.. yo dudey- dude- dude
Lmao
Nothing.. (you asked: “What are you doing”)
I was watching junkyard digs and he was a hittin a few valvy stems on a 289 Mustang a roo saying hey hit up thuneybird289 he has a hit the valve video and I donna not remember uh which one it was so I just tipped in yous namey and this sucker popped up.
( I mis-spelled own porpoise to add a lil flavor maybe make you smile a bit dude. BECAUSE YOU NEVER SMILE)
Ok I’m done rant-ten rantin rant-in RANTING
ahh how you sAy ?
Me say you crazy horse we need heep big pow wow. Ok cya later then hunnyburd 😮
I have a 1 wire alt and I ran the wire to a 100 amp gauge and a voltmeter to the dash then from there to the positive side of the starter. Can't see the wire to the battery. its cleaner look.
+angelfiggi thats a pretty damn good idea
What size is the out side diameter of alternator pulley do u have the hi flow pulleys on water pump and crank
I’m trying to find junkyard digs friend thunderbird
This is thunderhead umm 🤔??????
Yea yea yea add 289 duh
This video is very old - from before I ever even knew kevin
I also did the big 4 power and all grounds 4 gauge
Get a fan shroud.
so by doing this when you unhook the positive cable will the truck still die like it's a bad alternator
FYI guys. The alternator he installed is the front shell from the Ford OEM 1G alternator. This is mated up to the GM 10si alternator. Notice the black plastic cover over the two male prongs which would have gone to the idiot light in GM products. In summary this conversion can be accomplished dirt cheap from bone yard components.
A battery reading of 12.5 is a fully charged battery
,When a battery is in a vehicle running hooked up to the altenartor it should read 14.5 volts if your system is charging in a working system while running your engine vehecle
Car voltage battery will only charge to 12.5 volt capacity the higher charging voltage isn't is the charged voltage it's the charging voltage of the altenartor when you switch it off your voltage will read battery voltage until the alternator is running again then the charging voltage of 14.5 volts will be read once again
You could opt to a 3G Ford alternator which can be wired to be a 1 wire or to use a ignition on which is handy if you want control over it or if you have an idiot light. I prefer the 3G over most aftermarket Alts because of its performance and ease of use. You can also get aftermarket versions that put out as much as 200 amps or more! It's just a pain to get a v belt version
+TheMustangmaster98 i did a little reading on that system and i may have to try that eventually. i actually had an aftermarket 3G on my 2000 mustang. (still have the car lol) and it burned the bearings down in it very fast unfortunately. looking to try it again on the Galaxie. . . .
Does your ammeter still work? I assume no, I'm trying to do this on my 73 f100,just swapped out the FE 360 to a 460 and trying to figure out how my guage can still work, also just eliminating the wiring harness off the voltage regulator. ..any info would be great, great videos man thanks
I can't find brackets for this set up.
All I see is home made stuff.
No one shows how they made the lower bracket.
Did you use a circuit breaker in line with the battery and 100amp alternator ? If so what kind?
I bought the same alternator a couple days ago, and it was delivered today. I can't wait to install it on my 1964 Mercury, It should be a big improvement vs the old 40 amp alternator.
Southern Mechanics hey i just installed my one wire voltage regulator on my new alternator for my 63 comet. Im now blowing fuses when all my accessories running. Plus after market stereo can you give me any advice.
Chase Campbell It sounds like there’s too much amperage going through the car
Ok got it. It’s you dude.. 🤔😊✌🏼🙏🏻
Where's the voltage regulator?
1 wire GM alternators are internally regulated.
How has this alternator worked out for you long term? Thinking of installing one in 70 mustang. Ive tried the one wire conversion for my 3 wire and its cooking my battery at 18 volts going down hwy! Looking at the Jegs one wire alternator is that what you installed?
Mine is made by tuff stuff - I got it through amazon or summit. It’s a hybrid GM rear with ford front.
Search “Thunderhead289 302 pulleys”
I talk more about it in that video!
I am a new subscriber as I just now found your channel. My understanding is on a one wire alt it is not charging unless the rpm reaches a certain level. Not sure how true that is. You have interesting vids. Keep up the good work.
+Jim Buford they have a trigger that somehow senses rpm. they arent bad, but arent the best. when i did this and made the video i was much better read on the subject. they dont pull amp unless they are rotating though, so they will not, and have not from my experience, drain the battery while sitting. thanks for the friendly words btw
This should help further explain how this alternator functions. th-cam.com/video/WD5dZkGkkeI/w-d-xo.html
I got a 65 mustang 289, this would eliminate my stock voltage regulator.?
yes it definitely would indeed
ThunderHead289 thought so good deal thanks great channel
no problemo, and thanks
ThunderHead289 you're welcome
What do you do with the external regulator? remove all the wires and regulator, anything special you need to do?
Thanks for the video. Wish you would have done a step by step on how you wired it though.
The big red wire goes directly to the battery. Someone worried about a dead short could put a 100 amp automotive style circuit breaker in line
I can’t see your face dude
My one wire alternator needs to get turned on or "Excited" once the engine is started. This is done by tapping on the throttle for a second. With the voltage gauge that I installed, you'll see the voltage jump from whatever the battery voltage may be, 12 volts or so, up to the alternator's output voltage of around 13.8 to 14.3 volts. I removed my AMP gauge because it didn't have any fuse protection and actually shorted out and caused the wire harness to catch fire. Because of this lack of circuit protection and the size of the wire needed for today's cars to use an amp gauge the voltage gauge is now found in most cars and trucks.
+Charles Georgoudis that would be better than these. its sketchy how they will kick on if they sense a momentary voltage drop. granted they will switch off after a bit if they dont spin, but still. working very well so far and very pleased. after installing it i can definitely tell the ignition wasnt getting as much power as it wanted.
ThunderHead289 My Alt. is a PowerMaster. It's a 100 Amp and can be wired either one wire or as a standard alternator. I don't know why somebody would want to do that, but you can. It has a built in regulator, so you can unplug the external unit and remove it. I've had it for years and it still works great. The paperwork does express that the ground lead must be at least as large as the positive lead to the battery. Good luck.
It was humor.
Our Ford's have a noise ele system.
THANX
Where did you get that alternator
It has a internal voltage regulator.
Try not to go on a tangent and clean up that engine bay
Man, this is a throwback to like 6 years ago when I was in college working in parking lots
@@ThunderHead289 good 👍
your welcome
:)
I have 302 in a Pony and would like to thank you for your posts.
+Erik Mäki glad to hear im making a difference
North Dakota street in Ames? lol
+Ricky Rutter thats never good when someone knows the area of which i may or may not live. ha
I see you got a nice Chevy there.
+Erik Mäki what?
What is that alternator out of?
It's a one wire alternator from tuff stuff for the small block ford or Chevy. They have different output amos you can buy
what air intake do you have?
It's an old Hillborne scoop. Got it off of eBay for 65 or so about 5 years back
Any updates on this? I’m putting one on.
Doug Coleburn yes, search Thunderhead289 pulley set up 👍
ThunderHead289 hmm thanks but I don’t see it.
Doug Coleburn it was literally my first result, but that may be because he’s me.
th-cam.com/video/-qI9oV9sggo/w-d-xo.html
ThunderHead289 thank you. I’m putting on a Powermaster 100 amp v belt. I hope I don’t have the squealing problem. I can’t run a dual pulley set up as I have AC and power steering. Going on a 69 302.
I guess I better get the belt darn tight!! I like your channel.
what Tuff-Stuff part number did you use