Have the same truck with that exact problem. Usually If It sits longer than 10 minutes then It won’t start on the first try. Before 10 mins It normally has enough pressure to start. I’ve been trying to figure out the issue for a while so I’m very glad your doing videos on this🙏
@@DrivingIntelligence I have not. But my judgement was between leaking injectors or a bad check valve in the fuel pump. Haven’t had the time to get in there a find the cause of the issue. Hence why this video is very helpful👍
Glad it helped. I will buy a new Motorcraft Fuel Pump in the spring and pull the bed to install. I want to repair the underside of my bed and paint the frame. So doing this all together will make the job easier. Hope you are a subscriber! ;)
@@DrivingIntelligence Yes, I hooked up a fuel gauge from the test port. PSI in the twenties. I changed the pump. I dropped the tank for fear of bed bolts stripping; I could cut them out and replace them, but I've dropped a few tanks. I replaced the pump and pigtail (always,) hoses and clamps. I used the 1/4 flex extension to fuel impact driver for clamps.
Usually when this happens, for me, I hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn engine over and usually get it to crank. Just a quick fix if you’re stuck somewhere.
Another thing to add is, I had what seemed like a weak or faulty fuel pump but the problem was rigged up battery terminals causing everything else to work except fuel pump. I was only getting 8volts pass the fuel pump relay. I swapped over some oem cables from a parts truck and cleaned up the frame ground behind passenger front tire. Now fuel pump is strong with no issues! So it may be a ground issue with the pump either from battery ground or there was a common issue with the fuel pump wire connector on the frame corroding and the plastic connector breaking up and being brittle. Another common issue is mainly on the expeditions but the positive cable going down to the starter would get chafed and short out on the frame rail causing no start or hard starts.
This is great info. Thanks. Where did you check your voltage past the relay, at the relay, or at the tank? And do you live in the rust belt? I wonder if you have more corrosion than me. I did clean my battery terminals that were corroded and got a little more voltage from the battery: th-cam.com/video/GwLXfi3j8Rk/w-d-xo.html
@@DrivingIntelligence I checked voltage at the relay then at the fuel pump cutoff switch. The way the power is ran to the fuel pump is pcm to relay, then to fuel pump cutoff switch under the passenger side kick panel, then to the pump. I was getting 12 volts to the relay but 8volts at the cutoff switch. My airbag module also tripped a code because it was also receiving 8v but I reset it with forscan. Everything else worked like it should and was getting 12v. I'm thinking yours is most likely the check valve. Didn't you replace the pump? I read somewhere that the check valve is on the fuel pump and aftermarket fuel pumps don't normally have one. But take that statement with a grain a salt because idk if that's true. You could possibly have a small leak or the fuel pump housing gasket was bad? Is your fuel filter lines or fuel rail lines pushed on all the way as well? Just things to check off. Oh if you get forscan (which I mentioned on another video of yours) you can verify the injectors electric fault through live data, but doesn't show if one is faulty from being stuck open due to being dirty. Well it may because if one is leaking than it's most likely opened up a little sending back current and possibly showing a voltage draw. I'm in the Pacific northwest but the truck had sat for 5 years and the guy I got it from had rigged the ignition switch and had to lengthen the terminals to add some wire and just used regular fencing style cable bolt clamps (I know..) but the truck was starting up for a little while then one day went to go start it and no start. I would get no sound or a faint sound from the fuel pump if I messed with the cables after replacing the fuel pump with a fairly new one. So I swapped the cables and good as new. A side note though, the cables for a 2wd and 4wd or maybe 97 and 99year models are different where they mount to the frame. The bracket that bolts to the frame where the ground wire is, I had to bend the bracket flat instead of the tip fitting inside the hole next to the bolt hole that keeps the cable from spinning with the bolt.
Once I had hard start, I bought the F1482 Autobest pump off ebay for $19 in May '19 and carried it around, then I bought a fuel gauge in July '19 for $23. I replaced the filter first and still had intermittent slow start issues. When it got bad, I hooked up the gauge and it was mid twenties. I replaced the pump and it'd fire right up.
Great video! Somewhat related question: My 02 F150 5.4L is intermittently doing crank, no start and all fuses/relays are ok. I was assuming it was the fuel pump and had no pressure at fuel rail, then all of a sudden after checking every day for a week, one day it started and ran fine up to full engine temp. When I turned it off and immediately tried to re-start, got the crank, NO start, no fuel pressure again. It did this agsin the next day. Just seems like a weird way for the pump to be intermittent. Unless, once it starts, vacuum you alluded to can keep it running. Any ideas? Update after replacing fuel pump assembly with NAPA part which was $120 on cyber Monday: no more starting problems!
That definitely sounds like a fuel pump that's about to go out completely. Fuel pumps can be in and out depending how the pump motor stops when you turn off the engine. It could end up on a dead-spot on the motor windings. An old trick is to take a rubber mallet and bang the fuel tank to tease the pump. If it starts, then that's your problem.
Has this been fixed? My ford has the same issue, which is annoying! A workaround I find is to depress the gas pedal a little bit when cranking, then it starts fine. Based on the info here, seems I have leaky fuel injectors, so a little more depressing on the gas pedal increases air intake, which takes care of the leaked gasoline in the cylinders. Does this make sense? Thanks!
Thanks for your comment. Why do you think it is leaky fuel injectors? I'm pretty sure the issue is a bad check-valve on the fuel pump. I am getting close to replacing my fuel pump to resolve this and make sure I'm never left stranded... will be a future video!
I have a 2008 F150 with the 5.4L V8 and I'm having the issue you describe at the beginning when it's hot and I start it like after running in the store for a few minutes or pumping gas it realllllyy struggles getting to idle, sometimes to the point that it stalls and I have to try again. I already replaced the fuel pump myself when I first bought the truck in July 2021 because of a rough idle. Could it already be the issue again? Truck has about 130K miles on it. I also just had my transmission rebuilt in September and I didn't have this issue before that so I'm wondering if the mechanic didn't hook something back up correctly after fixing the transmission? I don't know enough about transmissions to know whether he had to pull apart any of the fuel system to get at it.
Thanks for the comment... this sounds like it could be an EVAP system issue. If the purge valve is not operating properly. Have you scanned the engine? Check Engine Light? Do you have any engine diagnostic trouble codes?
Mine was the fuel pump, watch this vid: How To Replace Fuel Pump 10th Gen '97-'04 Ford F150 For Procharger Install & Fuel Gauge Calibration th-cam.com/video/B1dDIU0R5-0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching and checking in. I haven't fixed it yet, my spring project with removal of the bed. But I am 90% sure I know the problem. It's the check valve in the fuel pump. This requires replacement of the fuel pump, hence, removal of the bed for easy access to the fuel pump. When I leave the vehicle for about 10-15 minutes like you, I cycle the key to on 3 times to prime the fuel pump before starting. It starts right away every time when I used this method. Try it and let me know what you observe.
@@DrivingIntelligence cool, thanks i also have to do that to get it to start on the first key turn. I have to prime it and she starts like nothing. I also thought it was leaky injectors. Hopefully I'll gain some power once the fuel pump is swapped 😂. Did you gain any power with the air duct mod ? Want to give it a shoo
I don't believe the air duct adds additional power in terms of peak horsepower, but in the summer, it is much better. The ECU Strategy pulls back alot of timing when the intake air temps get high. My system allows intake temps to recover much more quickly after being stopped for a while in traffic. Try it! Cheap mod!
Yes! See this video: How To Replace Fuel Pump 10th Gen '97-'04 Ford F150: Supercharger Install & Fuel Gauge Calibration th-cam.com/video/B1dDIU0R5-0/w-d-xo.html
I have 1992 E150 econoline ford, 5.8L , ... after 15 minutes running it gets stuck and some times it exolodes, Them I turn off engines for an hour and again it works fine for up to 15 minutes... THANKS FOR HELP ME.
Have the same truck with that exact problem. Usually If It sits longer than 10 minutes then It won’t start on the first try. Before 10 mins It normally has enough pressure to start. I’ve been trying to figure out the issue for a while so I’m very glad your doing videos on this🙏
Thanks for the comment, have you done any of the tests that I performed in this video?
@@DrivingIntelligence I have not. But my judgement was between leaking injectors or a bad check valve in the fuel pump. Haven’t had the time to get in there a find the cause of the issue. Hence why this video is very helpful👍
Glad it helped. I will buy a new Motorcraft Fuel Pump in the spring and pull the bed to install. I want to repair the underside of my bed and paint the frame. So doing this all together will make the job easier. Hope you are a subscriber! ;)
@@DrivingIntelligence Yes, I hooked up a fuel gauge from the test port. PSI in the twenties. I changed the pump. I dropped the tank for fear of bed bolts stripping; I could cut them out and replace them, but I've dropped a few tanks. I replaced the pump and pigtail (always,) hoses and clamps. I used the 1/4 flex extension to fuel impact driver for clamps.
Resolved! How To Replace Fuel Pump 10th Gen '97-'04 Ford F150 For Procharger Install & Fuel Gauge Calibration
th-cam.com/video/B1dDIU0R5-0/w-d-xo.html
Usually when this happens, for me, I hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn engine over and usually get it to crank. Just a quick fix if you’re stuck somewhere.
Another thing to add is, I had what seemed like a weak or faulty fuel pump but the problem was rigged up battery terminals causing everything else to work except fuel pump. I was only getting 8volts pass the fuel pump relay. I swapped over some oem cables from a parts truck and cleaned up the frame ground behind passenger front tire. Now fuel pump is strong with no issues! So it may be a ground issue with the pump either from battery ground or there was a common issue with the fuel pump wire connector on the frame corroding and the plastic connector breaking up and being brittle. Another common issue is mainly on the expeditions but the positive cable going down to the starter would get chafed and short out on the frame rail causing no start or hard starts.
This is great info. Thanks. Where did you check your voltage past the relay, at the relay, or at the tank? And do you live in the rust belt? I wonder if you have more corrosion than me. I did clean my battery terminals that were corroded and got a little more voltage from the battery: th-cam.com/video/GwLXfi3j8Rk/w-d-xo.html
@@DrivingIntelligence I checked voltage at the relay then at the fuel pump cutoff switch. The way the power is ran to the fuel pump is pcm to relay, then to fuel pump cutoff switch under the passenger side kick panel, then to the pump. I was getting 12 volts to the relay but 8volts at the cutoff switch. My airbag module also tripped a code because it was also receiving 8v but I reset it with forscan. Everything else worked like it should and was getting 12v. I'm thinking yours is most likely the check valve. Didn't you replace the pump? I read somewhere that the check valve is on the fuel pump and aftermarket fuel pumps don't normally have one. But take that statement with a grain a salt because idk if that's true. You could possibly have a small leak or the fuel pump housing gasket was bad? Is your fuel filter lines or fuel rail lines pushed on all the way as well? Just things to check off. Oh if you get forscan (which I mentioned on another video of yours) you can verify the injectors electric fault through live data, but doesn't show if one is faulty from being stuck open due to being dirty. Well it may because if one is leaking than it's most likely opened up a little sending back current and possibly showing a voltage draw. I'm in the Pacific northwest but the truck had sat for 5 years and the guy I got it from had rigged the ignition switch and had to lengthen the terminals to add some wire and just used regular fencing style cable bolt clamps (I know..) but the truck was starting up for a little while then one day went to go start it and no start. I would get no sound or a faint sound from the fuel pump if I messed with the cables after replacing the fuel pump with a fairly new one. So I swapped the cables and good as new. A side note though, the cables for a 2wd and 4wd or maybe 97 and 99year models are different where they mount to the frame. The bracket that bolts to the frame where the ground wire is, I had to bend the bracket flat instead of the tip fitting inside the hole next to the bolt hole that keeps the cable from spinning with the bolt.
Resolved! How To Replace Fuel Pump 10th Gen '97-'04 Ford F150 For Procharger Install & Fuel Gauge Calibration
th-cam.com/video/B1dDIU0R5-0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for your video Barry
Very welcome Mark
Nice background there!
The bar or the trees?! ;)
@@DrivingIntelligence the bar! Lol 😂
@@quisqueyatvw.5174 right on! & cheers!
check this out, my custom made bar... th-cam.com/video/ZtezNnRN9WE/w-d-xo.html
Once I had hard start, I bought the F1482 Autobest pump off ebay for $19 in May '19 and carried it around, then I bought a fuel gauge in July '19 for $23. I replaced the filter first and still had intermittent slow start issues. When it got bad, I hooked up the gauge and it was mid twenties. I replaced the pump and it'd fire right up.
excellent info, thanks for watching and commenting. That pump was CHEAP! Or should I say inexpensive? ;)
Resolved! How To Replace Fuel Pump 10th Gen '97-'04 Ford F150 For Procharger Install & Fuel Gauge Calibration
th-cam.com/video/B1dDIU0R5-0/w-d-xo.html
Great video! Somewhat related question: My 02 F150 5.4L is intermittently doing crank, no start and all fuses/relays are ok. I was assuming it was the fuel pump and had no pressure at fuel rail, then all of a sudden after checking every day for a week, one day it started and ran fine up to full engine temp. When I turned it off and immediately tried to re-start, got the crank, NO start, no fuel pressure again. It did this agsin the next day. Just seems like a weird way for the pump to be intermittent. Unless, once it starts, vacuum you alluded to can keep it running. Any ideas? Update after replacing fuel pump assembly with NAPA part which was $120 on cyber Monday: no more starting problems!
That definitely sounds like a fuel pump that's about to go out completely. Fuel pumps can be in and out depending how the pump motor stops when you turn off the engine. It could end up on a dead-spot on the motor windings. An old trick is to take a rubber mallet and bang the fuel tank to tease the pump. If it starts, then that's your problem.
Resolved! How To Replace Fuel Pump 10th Gen '97-'04 Ford F150 For Procharger Install & Fuel Gauge Calibration
th-cam.com/video/B1dDIU0R5-0/w-d-xo.html
Has this been fixed? My ford has the same issue, which is annoying! A workaround I find is to depress the gas pedal a little bit when cranking, then it starts fine. Based on the info here, seems I have leaky fuel injectors, so a little more depressing on the gas pedal increases air intake, which takes care of the leaked gasoline in the cylinders. Does this make sense? Thanks!
Thanks for your comment. Why do you think it is leaky fuel injectors? I'm pretty sure the issue is a bad check-valve on the fuel pump. I am getting close to replacing my fuel pump to resolve this and make sure I'm never left stranded... will be a future video!
Your thoughts make sense, but I'm not sure it would be leaky injectors. You would probably have fuel trim issues if injectors are leaking.
Resolved! How To Replace Fuel Pump 10th Gen '97-'04 Ford F150 For Procharger Install & Fuel Gauge Calibration
th-cam.com/video/B1dDIU0R5-0/w-d-xo.html
I have a 2008 F150 with the 5.4L V8 and I'm having the issue you describe at the beginning when it's hot and I start it like after running in the store for a few minutes or pumping gas it realllllyy struggles getting to idle, sometimes to the point that it stalls and I have to try again. I already replaced the fuel pump myself when I first bought the truck in July 2021 because of a rough idle. Could it already be the issue again? Truck has about 130K miles on it. I also just had my transmission rebuilt in September and I didn't have this issue before that so I'm wondering if the mechanic didn't hook something back up correctly after fixing the transmission? I don't know enough about transmissions to know whether he had to pull apart any of the fuel system to get at it.
Thanks for the comment... this sounds like it could be an EVAP system issue. If the purge valve is not operating properly. Have you scanned the engine? Check Engine Light? Do you have any engine diagnostic trouble codes?
Resolved! How To Replace Fuel Pump 10th Gen '97-'04 Ford F150 For Procharger Install & Fuel Gauge Calibration
th-cam.com/video/B1dDIU0R5-0/w-d-xo.html
I have a 2007 4.6 f150 with the same exact problem I wonder did you fix yours? what was it?
Mine was the fuel pump, watch this vid: How To Replace Fuel Pump 10th Gen '97-'04 Ford F150 For Procharger Install & Fuel Gauge Calibration
th-cam.com/video/B1dDIU0R5-0/w-d-xo.html
Did you ever get it fixed ? I have the exact same problem 10 to 15 min I try to crank it and wont turn on until the 2nd crank.
Thanks for watching and checking in. I haven't fixed it yet, my spring project with removal of the bed. But I am 90% sure I know the problem. It's the check valve in the fuel pump. This requires replacement of the fuel pump, hence, removal of the bed for easy access to the fuel pump. When I leave the vehicle for about 10-15 minutes like you, I cycle the key to on 3 times to prime the fuel pump before starting. It starts right away every time when I used this method. Try it and let me know what you observe.
@@DrivingIntelligence cool, thanks i also have to do that to get it to start on the first key turn. I have to prime it and she starts like nothing. I also thought it was leaky injectors. Hopefully I'll gain some power once the fuel pump is swapped 😂. Did you gain any power with the air duct mod ? Want to give it a shoo
I don't believe the air duct adds additional power in terms of peak horsepower, but in the summer, it is much better. The ECU Strategy pulls back alot of timing when the intake air temps get high. My system allows intake temps to recover much more quickly after being stopped for a while in traffic. Try it! Cheap mod!
Resolved! How To Replace Fuel Pump 10th Gen '97-'04 Ford F150 For Procharger Install & Fuel Gauge Calibration
th-cam.com/video/B1dDIU0R5-0/w-d-xo.html
Did this solve the problem???
Yes! See this video: How To Replace Fuel Pump 10th Gen '97-'04 Ford F150: Supercharger Install & Fuel Gauge Calibration
th-cam.com/video/B1dDIU0R5-0/w-d-xo.html
I have 1992 E150 econoline ford, 5.8L , ... after 15 minutes running it gets stuck and some times it exolodes, Them I turn off engines for an hour and again it works fine for up to 15 minutes... THANKS FOR HELP ME.
Hello, I don't understand your problem. You van explodes? Do you have check engine light? Do you have diagnostic trouble codes?
That leak down is normal. It only needs to hold it for a few minutes.
Not sure what you were watching, it didn’t hold for 30 seconds
@@DrivingIntelligencethought you fixed it by replacing the pump
Yes, the problem was the fuel pump check valve which confirmed my diagnosis