Love my F250 SD, It has 398K, It has blown a plug, and leaked coolant but still it runs strong. I do often pray for my truck to run well. Thank you, Jesus.
My daily is a 2000 with the 2v, did all plugs and coils at 150 000 and both exhaust manifolds shortly after. Got almost 300 000 now and it still runs quiet and smooth, body is rotting away but hell, I took her moose hunting 1400 kms up north last September and she never skipped a beat. I’ll drive it until the motor or transmission fail. 75,000$ for a new truck???? I’ll pass
@@waltercrigler6732 had the same issue! I used a obd reader to shoot the codes first. It kept telling me bank 7 and bank 2 misfire. I just order all 8 plugs and 8 coils. Did em all. I didn’t want to replace just the bad ones, she had 200k at that point I figured the other ones weren’t far behind. Put a new air filter on and an oil change and she’s good to go. Runs smoother than it ever ran I think lol. It’s too bad she’s rusting away!
If you want that truck to stay on the road longer than 300k with a repair that will save you alot of money here it it..... Above your oil filter is a aluminum oil cooler heat exchanger . Inside the heat exchanger is a port for oil and another port for coolant .. When this part goes the oil pressure will pump oil out the engine into the coolant system as the coolant system has less pressure. The radiator cap will plug with oil and the coolant system will blow somewhere after the oil fills it and the engine runs dry of oil ... The first sign of this failure is you will hear bubbling gurgling in the dashboard from the heater core then oil pressure will drop
170k miles only had number one but thats from someone not putting the bolts on even its a work truck i haul 5 ton all the time the engine is a mule just the gear ratio is very low meaning shes sluggish but powerful
I've had "0" problems with my 2 valve 5.4, in my book best engine ever built, everything goes wrong this is just minor issues, ford should have never discontinued these engines.
I had an 01 with the 5.4 and only had to do could packs at about 140,000 miles and a radiator weld due to a small crack. Other than that it was a great truck! Now I have a 2000 super duty with the same engine.
I must be lucky, as I've only had to replace the ALT, the MAF and (I think) 6 coils over the last 10 years. No blown plugs, no coolant or vacuum leaks, just an exhaust tic that goes away after running for a minute or so. 208,000 miles and still going strong.
Mine is a 2002 Ford E350 van with the 5.4L. I have a misfire in one cylinder and after changing all plugs and coils, it is still there . I am a retired auto mechanic and thinking now of doing head gaskets and timing components and all new spark plug thread inserts and a water pump while it is dismantled. Engine has 176,500 miles. No smoke or leaks and runs well despite that one cylinder misfire....once I find that...and I get the steering tightened up and responsive....I will take this van on a 5000 mile bucket list trip before settling down in lower eastern Michigan fo summers and Daytona Beach Florida in winter!
I've owned my 2001 f150 harley since 2004 it has over 400,000 kms and still drives like new. All I've done is normal maintenance and it's healthy as could be.
Be ready to drop 3 to 6 grand on timing chain complete replacement oil pan cleaning and gasket ,timing cover oil seal and cover seals 2 timing chains ford oem chain guides oem chain tensioners new oil sump tube screen gets clogged with metal and plastic new oring for pickup tube big bottle of blue loctite valve cover gaskets with bolt grommets new coil packs new spark plugs with bag of antiseize new fuel filter new air filter cam holding tools 1/4,3/8,1/2 torque wrenches crankshaft socket new water pump new high volume oil pump by melling suction fill syringe for oil pump orfice priming and while your at it change you trans filter and fluid some have reusable gasket 3 gallons of new yellow antifreeze and 3 gallons of distilled water .I installed a new fan clutch and cam followers and watch out for needing new cams to if worn these engines will last a very long time if you keep up on the timing chains oh and 2 new oil filters and a oil can for prelube and grey silicone I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things but it's a huge dirty job 80 percent of this job is cleaning the metal and gunk out of the oil pan oh an better get 2 or 3 gallons of oem ford trans fluid mine took 2 gallons I had a seal leak all fluid leaked out while sitting when doing timing job i also got new battery and alternator cost me u.s.d 3500.00 and 2 month of couple hours a day after work a total night mare but the shop would not have done this job the right way if you want it done right do it your self .now on to the axle bearing and seals that are shot 😭 oh and by the way my 2002 4.6 f 150 had 250,000 miles timing chains were fine it's the loss of oil pressure due to oil pickup screen getting clogged from chain tensioners eating themselves yep total self destruction and I kept my oil clean ya cant see the oil pickup screen clogged unless you jack the engine to the ceiling and take oil pan off it's a bear to do trans bell housing is in the way it took a miracle to get it out and 3 bottle Jack's 2 ramps and a floor jack ..
I have a complete 2003 super charged drive train sitting in my garage from a 2003 harley . The day this one shits the bed it will give me all the more reason to do the swap lol
My 5.4L March 2022- 402K Miles. Original Motor, Tranny, Starter, Driveshaft. I can not recommend this HIGHLY enough- change all the coils at the same time & make sure they are the highest quality you get get your mitts on. NO CHEAP EBAY KNOCKOFFS ! Get Original or better. Top end Coils will keep your 5.4L running smooth and purring like a kitten. My truck is 21 years old 402K Miles and last tank of gas : 16.4 mpg. I track the mileage fanatically. I can not hear or barely feel my motor when it's running ! If you buy cheap coils you will suffer endlessly......misfires , check engine lights galore, rough running, etc.
@@darrenthoreson3924 One full year with top end coils. Running like a dream. Cheap coils were throwing codes all the time. Ran rough. I'm getting the same MPG now as when it was new.
@@ajmedeiros77 Denso coils. I can not stress enough how incredible the truck had been running since I put these in. I was using cheapo ebay coils. This truck has 406k miles & has been purring like a kitten with those coils. While you're in there put new plugs in too. Any top rated plug will do. I used Motocraft. The person that recommended the Denso is a 30 year Ford mechanic. A real fanatic too. Good luck.
You forgot one thing on those misfires. Coolant crossover the plastic mold busting out are cracking and then the gasket blows out which causes antifreeze to get down into the Spark plug whales and causes bark plug the foul out or cold pack to go out as well lotta times you won’t see The engine coolant leak if it’s not a bad leak it could go on for six months to a year I’ve just barely leaking into those spark plug wells and just follow spark plug here and there. I know this because it happened to me. I’ve got a 2001 F150 bought it with 42,000 miles in 2005 it’s got 250,000 on it now. Knock on wood and a pretty good truck overall, it’s been good enough that I wanna keep it and I also all of the work to it. As of so far. The only issues I really had that was serious is the intake manifold. Also if you’re changing that it’s also good to go ahead and take the throttlebody and clean it really well while you have it off. My truck at the engine service light on from like 160 to 170,000 miles up until I change the intake manifold the last time and I clean the throttle body real well. Which I have not had a light come back on since. Which is wild because it still has the original exhaust and original 02 sensors as well.
@@KonaBlueSVT You're very welcome !!! My only question is this- when I take it to the repair shop here in Woodiinville, WA, will they be able to cut new threads into that spark plug hole ?? ( It's the furthest back spark plug, on the passenger side ) I could barely reach the coil with my hand. I am concerned that they may have to pull the engine to make this repair, because there is such a small amount of room. Can the thread cutting tools fit into that small space ?? Thanks for your reply !!!
Ford wanted to buy Lotus Motors. They refused to sell. Ford then contacted their employees and offered more money to come to Ford. The engine they first designed was the 4.6/5.4 two valve.
Hey, Thanks for the vid. I have a 1997 F250 5.4 runs on CNG. 7 bolt rims. It was one of Fords fleet offerings at the time. Yer truck looks great by the way! Nice to see folks keeping the old stock running.
Terrific video, Thanks! My 2001 F150 eng 5.4 has Motor craft OEM ignition coil part# F7TU-12A366-CD are the following the same replacement F7TU-12A366-BA or F7TU-12A366-AB Thanks in advance, Albert D.
97 f150 5.4. I spent 2 years and at least a grand chasing lean code on both banks. No vacuum leak, plugs and coils good ,changed egr, throttle body and maf sensor twice. It always ran great but mpg was terrible. Finally take to a real mechanic, he asked when I changed maf did I also change the housing. Nope. He showed me that Ford requires the maf a d housing needs to be matched and flowed together. Put it on and cleared codes and it runs like new. Bought from Napa, about 265.00.
100% I’m not great when it comes to mechanical stuff but regardless of what vehicle I always recommend changing the housing and sensor at the same time
@larrymclain no, it was lean codes on both banks. Tried all kinds of shit to fix. Even changed maf sensor to no avail. Finally changed maf sensor and housing as a matched unit. Codes gone and all is good since....
I got 1 of this 03 ford f150 my po171 code was from my exalt clamp from my manifold was loss on the passenger side in also found that using the red & gray Eddie brok coil kit gives me the best 🔥
I had a bad idle it would bounce on my 99 f150, I switched my spark plugs about 2 -3 months ago. I don’t drive it much. I switch the EGR valve pressure sensor it calmed it down. But I ordered the egr valve to which came in later in the week. Once I installed it and turn the truck on I felt like a pressure was released while turning the truck on now When I accelerate I hear a hissing sound. Idk what it could be anyone know? Or have an idea. The truck sit most of the time vacuum lines all looked fine switched mainly all of them.
Appreciate your video. I have an ‘03super duty with the 5.4 mated to a 6 speed manual transmission. Bought it used 10 years ago with 39k miles. Never has been a daily driver, religiously maintained, now has 85k. I did a “preemptive strike” regarding the spark plug issue, having seen a video about that. The plugs were all changed out 10k ago by a guy who claimed to be familiar with the 5.4 issue. This week I am pulling a 20’ empty car hauler many miles from home and the rear most plug on the pas. Side blows out of the head, damn!! My luck, the mechanic is out of town so I am dead in the water. I watched a video today that recommends motor craft only and over tighten them from 13 lbs to 23, claiming they will never come out, and, if you do not do that, it’s just matter of time before they do. What say you?
On an annual basis I perform a PM on all my equipment. On my 5.4 truck the annual PM now includes re-torquing the spark plugs. In addition to checking brake pads, differential oil, coolant condition, greasing suspension, suspension wear checks, filters, etc..
Put 1 drop of loctite or superglue on top of one side of the threads AFTER you tighten the sparkplug. This will allow you to break the glue when changing the spark plugs but will keep the plugs from backing out.
I had a coil misfire problem when I first got my 01 5.4 Ford. I replaced all the coils but found the problem was the clips that connect the electrical to the coils. The clips cost as much as the coils but have had no trouble since replacing them. My 5.4 2V now has over 250,000 miles and going strong.
I've had 2 F-150 5.4 2Vs, a '97 and an '03. Both had exhaust manifold gasket leaks on the right rear side, same place on both. Both required new exhaust manifolds, gaskets and stud bolts-nuts. I had both sides done on both trucks and each truck cost about $1,100 parts and labor.
@@thewhomphlew I get that, it’s fair obviously for having somebody else do your dirty work. My point was for such a simple task it’s ridiculous that somebody would pay another man to work on their own vehicle when it can easily been done yourself. I still think the price is a little steep but definitely fair.
@@jmtGAMING That's only around $40 higher than my estimates for the same job, new studs and everything. No mechanic ever opened shop to give people basement bargains prices, it's to make a living, and alot of people have no desire to start wrenching on their vehicle. Nothing wrong with that.
A mechanic told me that the metal pipes on the left side of the engi e were known to corode and bust a hole where coolant would spit out. Reason, too much water to coolant ratio. 4 years later, it happened to me. It requires the manifold to be taken off.
That and the oil pressure sensor go out on these 5.4 engines. Some vacuum hoses and gunk gets on the air pressure sensor piece but simple two screws remove and clean with carb cleaner - cheap to fix .
Before either of those check the hard vacuum lines going around the engine. The green and the white lines do the egr. (White lines may look yellow.) I had an egr code did all of the Cleaning above changed both the sensor, valve and solenoid to no avail. Wound up being a rotted vacuum lines behind the battery.
I have a 1997 f15@ and I floored it and after I let go of the gas the radio and gages started to glitch out and turn off and on then the motor turned off what should I do
(2001 Ford F150 Lightning 5.4lL) Had a blown spark plug in #3. Replaced head. Truck started to shake around 35-40mph and up. Found they replaced the coil pack with a non oem, witch does not have same fire times. Replaced all coil packs. Had a P171, cleaned air intake and filter, no engine light so far. Now my OBD2 will not read, has power. but My truck now shakes around 40 mph and up. Does not shake when in 2nd gear. Still trouble shooting. Also had a ABS light and turn signals would not work, due to a leaky front window. Water was entering the cab running down to the fuse box under the dash. A quick kick to under the dash to vibrate any water on the wires it goes out. Any idea of the shaking at 40mph and up with no engine light or obd2 reading or a hard crank but will start problem would help alot
My dad owns a 07 e350 with the 2v 5.4 and the only major problems it has had over the 12 years of ownership was bad catalytic Converters and a probelm with the coil packs causing the engine to randomly shutoff at any time, we found out that the coil packs (which we had recently replaced) were defective, so we reinstalled the factory coil packs and its been running fine since then.
Replaced the coil packs on my 5.4 and fixed the misfire and fixed what I thought was a transmission problem. Used a good set of msd street fire coils. Had to get the light offf to pass inspection. It’s passed inspection then the light came back on a week or so later. I wonder what caused this.
Hey brother. I don’t mean to step on your comment, but Ford issued a service bulletin on this probably 18 years plus ago now. It’s not that your comment is incorrect because it’s not. After my blowout just outside of warranty I did the research on this because I was pretty pissed. Ford acknowledged that incorrect machine work was the true culprit. There was only 2-3 threads machined into the heads for the plug to grab and hold. To give you a idea of how inadequate that is, in the Air Force if there wasn’t at least 3 threads showing on a nut it was a safety violation. So if you allow a minimum of 4 threads in the nut plus the 3 it’s obviously 7 threads. Granted, we’re talking about equipment considerably more expensive than a F-150 but it shows how far they missed the mark. They admitted the problem, and this was pre kit repair so I had to pay a dealer almost $2k to pull the head and repair it. They had you by the nuts back then. If they would’ve issued a recall they were looking at bankruptcy, so they let all of us absorb it. Not quite like changing some rusty gas tank straps. But as I said you are correct, the others were torqued to spec and I haven’t had a problem since. But with the trauma of the initial failure I do a torque check about every 20k miles give or take. Call it paranoia. Luckily the trucks 22 now and driven less than 2k a year. Sorry so long but I kinda was ranting on Ford. But I’ve purchased 5 more Fords since. I’m not sure if I’m loyal or stupid, but the rest have been very dependable nice vehicles.
@@scottjones8737 excellent overview and correct information. I own a 2001 F150 5.4 and have blown out two plugs at different times. Luckily my mechanic used the kit and it’s worked out. Good advice to double check the torques periodically. Thanks!
I have a 2003 f150 5.4 triton heratage an its spuing oil an ovee heating oils brand new an all over my block (street ).I replace the thermastate bot shur whats up at all.
My lower intake manifold was leaking. When the mechanic pulled it off, it had a Dorman manifold. The mechanic replaced it with another Dorman manifold. Best advice use Motorcraft.
I have issues w both P0401 and P0402 at the same time. Very confusing. Looks like the P0401 was carbon clogging the EGR ports in the intake manifold. I'm still searching for what causes the P0402 code. Any ideas?
I have a 2002 F-150 Kingranch with the 2v and ive had to completely rebuild the intake with new parts and my pcm getting fried after 300k miles and a lot of abuse from the previous owners. Ive already gone througu the whole fuel system and timing system.
My 2000 4.6 2v has 297,000 and has had most of these except exhaust and issues with popping plugs. Most frustrating for me was an intermittent idle at 2300 rpm. IAC was opening...it wasnt the IAC or ECM...TPS wiring harness was shorting out and forcing IAC wide open. Runs perfectly now.
Hi would that cause misfire. I’ve trying to trouble shoot a misfire. Did full tune plugs and coils, maf sensor, cleaned out throttle body, and checked for vacuum. Leaks. Still scratching my head!. I unplugged the TPS today and I noticed the idle changed but went back to normal when I reconnected.
i have an 01, 5.4 . i keep getting missfire on cyl #3. mech said bad coil and replacedit. ran good for appx 3 weeks and bad #3 coil again. He replaced coil and ran fine for another 3 weeks, then agin missfire on # 3. He said they had a recall on the brand he was using, he put in a different coil and good for a month then same thing. he did a pressure test, no coolant in cylinder, plugs looked good. Now I have it on # 4 cyl. this seems to happen when it RAINS. The day after the rain truck runs fine ,with same coils, until next rainy day. I have taken the shroud off between windshield and hood, no clogged drain holes, ive caulked this shroud, caulked the ground screw holes in the firewall, checked the wiring harnesses for skint insulation, ive caulked the washer spouts on the hood, sprayed the water hose over truck for 30 mins, checked under hood and no visible water around the coils, or any where else. dry todat and truck runs fine????? Ive looked at the fuel control ? box above the spare tire doesnt look corroded or cracked. HELP pls
I changed plugs and injectors on my 2001 ford f150 supercrew lariat with the 5.4 triton and now it will not stay running. Any help would be appreciated
I have a 1999 expedition 5.4l 191k miles. Runs great, tons of power. Has a subtle knocking noise sounds like a quiet desil motor. Everything ive seen with similar noise was on the 3v phasers. What could be causing this on my 2v? Gets quieter after it warms up to temp. After 1200 rpm i can't hear it over the engine. Louder when colder outside.
I have issues with 98. Mainly #4, I've replaced coil and boot but can't get the plug to break loose. I moved fuse block out of the way still not enough room
2 things I have had luck doing on stubborn spark plugs. The first is to perform a fuel induction service, it helps break up any carbon inside the cylinder that is holding the plug in. The 2nd is get the engine to operating temperature and then fill the spark plug well with penetrating lube, let it set for a couple days and then try to get it out.
Coolant loss problem I just learned to accept it like a cup to 2 cups every 3 to 4 days depending on how far I drive it Also I kept getting a misfire in # 1. cylinder after 2 shops diagnosed the problem after replacing plugs all 8. All 8 boots replaced on #1 cylinder the injector and the coil pack replaced still there was a misfire and check eng light still on. And scanner read misfire at start up both shops said it’s a blown head gasket coolant leaking into cly #1. They said I needed a new motor Motor and truck have 200,000 miles well I kept driving it since it was only stalling at start up but then cleared after warm up To make a long story short it ended being my coolant cap I disconnected the battery cable which cleared the check eng light. Then reconnected it. Then I bought a new cap installed it. Like I turned hand tight only no clicking sounds just snug. Well it’s been 200 miles and I’m sure the computer has recycled and the check engine light is still off and I’m keeping on eye on my anti freeze and oil level. Truck runs as good as new Some pple may disagree but I don’t have 8,000$ for rebuilt long block labor and parts. I’m just gona drive it till it dies. My truck is 2002. Ford F-150 XLT. SuperCrew 4.6 automatic The Coolant cap was bad and not venting causing excessive pressure inside the motor and cylinder heads probably forcing coolant into cly #1 causing that misfire at start up. Good luck to all. First On Race Day
Did your misfire ever come back? I keep getting cylinder #1 misfire comes and goes. Replaced coils, spark plugs, I even swaped out Injectors and it still came back for like 2 minutes and then went away idk what else to think lol pulled the coil and spark plug out and it's bone dry and looks super clean! Swaped out plugs too. You ever figure out the issue?
@@golpherboy13 Hi I sure did it was something so simple. My dad made the same comment to me watch it will be something simple. He was an equipment mechanic gas and diesel for Santa Fe Railroad back in the day, and on weekends I would help as a kid work on the family cars trouble shooting tune ups or engine overhauls we did it all , so now as an adult I don’t get Into rebuilding but the rest of it trouble shooting tune ups change parts I do get into it and love it. My dad was a Ford man also!! Any way it ended up being the coolant cap it was holding to much pressure or not venting and caused my coolant system to overheat like a volcano it was causing enough pressure in the left side head gasket to leak Into cylinder #1 So during the day it ran fine but when it sat at night under pressure that’s where it would relieve itself and piss coolant into that 1 cylinder causing a misfire every morning and the check engine light would come on. But once it burned the coolant it ran fine. I changed plugs boots checked all the wires on all the injectors coils on all 8 cylinders I replaced the the #1 coil and injector and plug and boot and still no luck . Also I was loosing coolant and I couldn’t figure out why it wasn’t leaking no leaks any where. I refilled my coolant burping it correctly slowly replaced the coolant, bought a new coolant cap tightened only finger tight do not let it click click or lock in place and that solved the whole problem That coolant cap was now breathing off the side of the cap and from the vent it’s been maybe 6 months problem never came back. Good luck!!
@@joecarreon4824 did you ever do a compression check? It's hard for my thoughts to go to: If the cooling system created enough pressure to push coolant through the head gasket, then the gasket would have to be shot. When the cylinder fires there will be far more pressure on the head gasket than the cooling system could ever create, so wouldn't there be an overheating condition happening? If it is working, great! I would continue driving it as well.
@@markchidester6239 Hi Mark. Yes I had a mechanic check the compression and it was fine all equal all pistons, It was the weirdest thing In my years of owning cars and trucks but it’s been running in top shape since I repaired the truck. I’m at 200,000 miles and going strong no overheating issues summer or winter or towing or off-road. Thanks for your comment
Thanks. Are you a certified mechanic? I am thinking of helping a friend out and buying his old F150. It is having misfire/spark plug related issues. Would it be worthwhile to buy it from him for a dirt cheap price? He just can't afford parts and labor at the moment. Lastly, how much do you think an engine rebuild costs on this truck? THANKS IN ADVANCE
It depends on alot of factors, year, condition, options, mileage, how cheap you can get it, etc. These things are super reliable, but not all that valuable unfortunately. Rather than trying to rebuild, it would likely be cheaper to just buy a reman engine. Last time I looked, you could get one for around $2800.
I have a 98 f150 with a 5.4 extended cab 4x4 and it has 268,724 miles as of right now. Only issue I have seen is rear main failure, dipstick housing broke off in the block and exhaust manifold cracked making a leak. All this happened at 242,288 miles. No other issues with the engine.
I am dealing with a coolant leak into the cab. I found a puddle on the floor of the driver side inside the truck. There is a smell in the air conditioning but hot air and cold seem to work ok. There is also a bit of fog in the AC when it is on. I’m thinking it could be the heater core but I’m not sure. Truck is a 2002 5.4 Supercrew fx4
@@KonaBlueSVT Thank you. We'll be driving it this way for a bit until I save enough to get it fixed. Or I might try to just buy the part and do the scary job myself. I'm thinking about it.
@@KonaBlueSVT I replaced the heater core last fall on my 2001 F150 5.4L 2 valve. You need to be confident enough to remove the entire dash. Watch the available videos, several times. There are different tips on different videos. the professionals who are doing it repeatedly can get it out in 15-20 minutes, but they KNOW where all the difficult bolts are, and how to get to them. I took about two hours to get mine out, referring back to the video several times. I had chopped off the hoses in the engine compartment and bypassed the heater core last spring, knowing that in Texas I wouldn't need heat until late fall fall. So it stopped the leak until I had time to take it apart and replace the core. I was 67 at the time, not a professional mechanic, but I have done a lot of car repairs in my time. Then i replaced the radiator, the intake manifold, drilled out and tapped two additional spark plugs that blew out, and now this week I have to replace the timing chains and tensioners, oil pump and valve ccover and timing cover gaskets and I may have to drop the oil pan as well. 22 yr old ride w/313,000 +miles. Can't complain too much,
My 01 Eddie Bauer expedition 2wd is sputtering while accelerating. it's the first one I bought so idk the whole in's and out's of it.. I did the plugs, air filter, fuel filter, cleaned the tank (didn't replace fuel pump though)... If I replace the pump and it still does that what does that mean internally? Im used to carburators I don't know fuel injection too well but I get it. Its check engine light is on btw. It runs great but it could run better. I got it for $600 from a family friend and he took care of it from what I can tell. Fluids are good, start up is good, idle is good, but I was just looking for advice on the motor and troubleshooting. This video was great BTW
My Father just gave me his 98 expedition XLT 4x4 5.4 Triton it shifting really hard into 3rd & 4th gear can anybody guide me or give me any kind of information on this my uncle said it might be the transmission mount but it only shifts hard and 4th and 3rd all the other gears are smooth doesn't make sense to me
Hey wondering how your gas mileage was in the 5.4 f150 I recently bought one just trying to base it off of similar trucks mine is the 03 f150 7700 with the beefer 7 lug rims an I believe on f250 frame
i have a 2003 expedition with 320000 miles. it has recently started misfiring and throwing a misfire code. i replaced all coils and sparkplugs and the passenger side pcv valve and the hose that was connected to it because it was collapsing in on itself. It runs fine when cool but as soon as it heats up it starts misfiring again.
I have Ford f150 2003 Triton 5.4L v8 it cranks but no start codes system to lean in banks 1 and 2. codes for oxygen sensor and fuel pump circuit high. It has new fuel pump, fuel ,filter ,fuel pump relay , fuel injectors, plugs and coil packs. but is still crank no start. already spent lots of money on her but not starting any ideas
Same thing was happening to my 04 expedition until I found the issue was the fuse/relay box had corrosion on some parts causing bad connectivity with relays. Connected fuel pump directly with a shut off/on fuse and issue solved.
I have a 1998 Ford F-250 with the 5.4 triton. It has an issue with the engine shutting off when I stop at a red light. It has no idle problems, and is throwing no codes, the engine just shuts off all of a sudden. Any idea what could be causing that? Thanks.
Getting misfires. Got new plugs and coils for all 8. Still getting slight misfires. Mechanic ran test amd thinks the piston rings are worn and a new motor is needed because its burning oil. Its drivable for now but i dont want to drop thousands on a new motor. Im trying yhe barrs stop oil burn to see if it helps. Any ideas ?
Throw some marvel mystery oil in ur motor to try to clean things out. Don’t do an engine flush cuz that can do more harm than good. That, & throw a gallon of the strongest fuel system cleaner you can get your hands on. Preferably not sea foam, but try to get the lucas or the blue devil stuff. Then get like 2-3 bottles of one or both of em. Dump em I’m in the tank, & see how it runs. Sometimes the rings are nasty, & need to be cleaned out.
If you truly have rings that are hanging up due to deposits, the only product I have found that actually works is a product call EPR. It is made by BG Products. I would also run a couple cans of 44K through the system as well. These may or may not fix the problem, but would be worth a try.
Just bought a 2000 e350 5.4 for 500 bucks from a university in OH has 167,xxx on the dash starts runs ands drives no check engine but gives a ticking sound when I hit the gas. Not even sure where it’s coming from. Plan on replacing all plugs and coils hoping to get 150k miles from it
The misfire problem on mine (03 F250 5.4L 2v) is proving very difficult to diagnose. Changed fuel filter, did not help. Checked ECM with scanner, no codes and the O2 sensors are showing the proper voltage. Finally changed ALL the coils with brand new Edelbrock coils and new Autolite plugs. She ran great for 3 days, but now the misfire came right back. Runs rough, low power, feels like a misfire. I guess I'll have to recheck every plug and replace each coil one-by-one until I find the problem. Going to start with #4, then #8, then #7, and so on (hardest ones first). If it still has a misfire, then maybe I'm just going to replace the ECM.
@@KonaBlueSVT Well it's misfiring all the time. The idle is decent, but you can still feel it. When you say fuel trims, you mean looking at the live data stream on the scanner?
@@KonaBlueSVT Well it's all over the place but at idle I have 4.7 on LTFTRM1 and -12.5 on LTFTRM2. At 2200 RPM I get 4.7 on LTFTRM1 and -6.3 on LTFTRM2. On deceleration Bank 2 went as high as 15.49 while Bank 1 was at 0.0.
can someone help me i have problem with the driver side all 4 coils not working i changed camshaft sensor but didn't fix it and i don't have check engine light
I have a 2003 F150 Lariat super cab. Sometimes it won't start. The key chip indicator flashes instead of coming in and staying on steady. The motor spins but that's all. Using the command start works. Is there a connection problem with the chip reader? Can this be changed out? I assume that the command starter bypasses the chip reader to allow starting without the key. Is it possible to bypass the chip to cure the problem permanently? Sometimes these safety/ helpful ideas by Engineers drive me draft! Lol
Do you have another key to try? The security light should flash rapidly for 60 seconds, then it will flash a 2 digit code. This may give you a place to start.
@@KonaBlueSVT Thank you. What happened was that a previous owner put in after market interior lights. They wired it upto the ignition system. When the lights shorted out. So did the ignition system. So the shop that I put it into took out the after market lighting but also disabled the command start. I took it back in after the ignition wouldn't work. They hooked it up but after a couple of trips it again has security chip connection malfunctions. My next chance is with the shop that put in the command start. I think that it is a programming problem. Because a command start has to bypass the chip to enable the motor to start without a key in the ignition. I hope that this works. I have a back up key from a lock shop. The original and the back up key have the same issues. So it is chip connectivity problem. I think.
I have a 2003 f150 5.4L 2V and have a code po172 I change all the related parts and still have the code nothing else. but on my scan tool have always a LT FTRM1 -19 to-23%. don't know what to do.
What are the related parts? The only two systems that can add extra fuel to these engines are the EVAP or the Fuel pressure regulator. A stuck evap valve will allow unmetered fuel vapors into the motor from the gas tank. The fuel pressure regulator can leak and send fuel backwards down the vaccum line. Both of those can be tested with a vacuum pump. Both should hold vacuum. Lastly you could have a leaky or stuck fuel injector, but it’s a little less uncommon. Though cleaner does help.
@@trevorsmith5524 I solved the problem it had a cheap fuel injector. So have to replace all fuel injectors standard ignition brand. and no more code po 172
I blew the plug, but I didn't do the helicoil because I felt it was an intense job, I took it to a mechanic because it was over 116 degrees outside, and it was Cylinder fkn 8, right under the damn dash! There are a few ti es in my lifetime where I will concede.
I need help. I have a 2001 f150 5.4 litre Tritan V8. I got a code 307 and changed plug and coil on cylinder 7. Then I got code for EGR sensor. Now I am getting two codes. 307 and 174. Need advice please. I have good power but real rough idle and hesitation.
Repeated misfires in cylinder 3. Cannot figure this out. Changed all coils plugs and an injector. Ran perfect for months. Then intermittently cylinder 3 again starts to misfire. Now it’s doing it all the time. I’m extremely frustrated with this. I’ve played musical coils tested injector connectors for voltage all good. Why’s this keep happening?
@@KonaBlueSVT Haven’t checked fuel trim thanks for the tip. Coils were TRQ’s. I moved them around same problem. I’m getting power at the injector when engines running. I’m going to check again to see if it pulses with a better test light.
Hello, I’ve got a 2003 5.4 F150 what been going on is it was my dads truck my dad passed so it sit for two years, it was time to get it up and running I got it going but it drives good then it seems like it goes into safe mode no power the I pull over let it sit for a couple minutes then start it up then it runs good after a while it does it all of again do ya hav any idea what could be goin on??? Thank with all the help you can give me Robert
I have a 00 f250 with the 5.4 2v replaced pcv valves purge valves 02 sensors, camshaft sensors truck runs great but once warmed up and sit for 35 45 minutes and starts back up it has a horrible choppy idle almost like a cam, any ideas?
Mine sent out o2 sensor codes. Now when I’m at a light it try’s to stall. The idle is going out if I don’t shut it off or put it in neutral and Rev the engine it will stall. If it is in park the idle drops and it will stall out. Help??
I had a 97 f150 that died sometimes when idle and going into reverse. I tried seafoam there’s a large vacuum line coming out at the fire wall (driver side near brake booster) pull off hose start truck and let it suck in a little seafoam! Cleared up my idle big time
my air valve modulates for a few seconds then stops for a few on and on when it warms up can you tell me whats up with this 2001 5.4 2v. i do have a vacuum code but it happened before the code came up. it almost sounds like a machine gun . rpms change to.
I’ve been pretty lucky with mine, had a plug pop out once, and valve cover gaskets leak, manifolds are good and the intake gaskets are so far so good. Had a friend with a coolant leak from his intake manifold on his 4.6 but he never changed his coolant and the gasket rotted out at the coolant channel
Watch the TH-cam videos, for the triton 3valve engine, 2004 & later, the needle bearings wear out, they get pushed down, the cam starts dragging on the steel, then the cam lobe gets chewed up, jams, and the roller follower gets kicked out into the head, pieces can get into the intake manifold, then the valve falls down into the combustion chamber, damages the piston head, engine is toast
Love my F250 SD, It has 398K, It has blown a plug, and leaked coolant but still it runs strong. I do often pray for my truck to run well. Thank you, Jesus.
My daily is a 2000 with the 2v, did all plugs and coils at 150 000 and both exhaust manifolds shortly after. Got almost 300 000 now and it still runs quiet and smooth, body is rotting away but hell, I took her moose hunting 1400 kms up north last September and she never skipped a beat. I’ll drive it until the motor or transmission fail. 75,000$ for a new truck???? I’ll pass
Great video for all of us 5.4 2V owners thank you for taking time to do this video.
@SteveReneMedia Thanks for the comment!
I have 2000 f150 and it has 160,000mi. It just started to miss fire really bad. Did changing the spark plugs and coils help you with this issue?
@@waltercrigler6732 had the same issue! I used a obd reader to shoot the codes first. It kept telling me bank 7 and bank 2 misfire. I just order all 8 plugs and 8 coils. Did em all. I didn’t want to replace just the bad ones, she had 200k at that point I figured the other ones weren’t far behind. Put a new air filter on and an oil change and she’s good to go. Runs smoother than it ever ran I think lol. It’s too bad she’s rusting away!
If you want that truck to stay on the road longer than 300k with a repair that will save you alot of money here it it..... Above your oil filter is a aluminum oil cooler heat exchanger . Inside the heat exchanger is a port for oil and another port for coolant .. When this part goes the oil pressure will pump oil out the engine into the coolant system as the coolant system has less pressure. The radiator cap will plug with oil and the coolant system will blow somewhere after the oil fills it and the engine runs dry of oil ... The first sign of this failure is you will hear bubbling gurgling in the dashboard from the heater core then oil pressure will drop
1.Exhaust manifold leak
2.Spark plugs blowing threads out usually after becoming loose.
3. Coolant leaking at intake manifold
4. Vacuum lines leaking
I'm at 201,000 miles and have had #1, #2 and #4; additionally I'm on my 3rd alternator.
Plastic sides on the radiator package ended up replacing it
170k miles only had number one but thats from someone not putting the bolts on even its a work truck i haul 5 ton all the time the engine is a mule just the gear ratio is very low meaning shes sluggish but powerful
I've had "0" problems with my 2 valve 5.4, in my book best engine ever built, everything goes wrong this is just minor issues, ford should have never discontinued these engines.
This and the 4.6 2v engines are the best engines Ford has ever made, and they certainly won’t EVER make anything better than these engines.
I had an 01 with the 5.4 and only had to do could packs at about 140,000 miles and a radiator weld due to a small crack. Other than that it was a great truck! Now I have a 2000 super duty with the same engine.
Bullet proof!
Just bought a 2001 lariat 5.4 supercrew with 200k and paid 3400 bucks. Because it had a p304. Swapped the pack and now it runs absolutely perfect.
I must be lucky, as I've only had to replace the ALT, the MAF and (I think) 6 coils over the last 10 years.
No blown plugs, no coolant or vacuum leaks, just an exhaust tic that goes away after running for a minute or so.
208,000 miles and still going strong.
Mine is a 2002 Ford E350 van with the 5.4L. I have a misfire in one cylinder and after changing all plugs and coils, it is still there . I am a retired auto mechanic and thinking now of doing head gaskets and timing components and all new spark plug thread inserts and a water pump while it is dismantled. Engine has 176,500 miles. No smoke or leaks and runs well despite that one cylinder misfire....once I find that...and I get the steering tightened up and responsive....I will take this van on a 5000 mile bucket list trip before settling down in lower eastern Michigan fo summers and Daytona Beach Florida in winter!
I've owned my 2001 f150 harley since 2004 it has over 400,000 kms and still drives like new. All I've done is normal maintenance and it's healthy as could be.
I'm buying one just like what u have u think it's a good buy
Depends on all the details. Price, options, miles, etc.
Be ready to drop 3 to 6 grand on timing chain complete replacement oil pan cleaning and gasket ,timing cover oil seal and cover seals 2 timing chains ford oem chain guides oem chain tensioners new oil sump tube screen gets clogged with metal and plastic new oring for pickup tube big bottle of blue loctite valve cover gaskets with bolt grommets new coil packs new spark plugs with bag of antiseize new fuel filter new air filter cam holding tools 1/4,3/8,1/2 torque wrenches crankshaft socket new water pump new high volume oil pump by melling suction fill syringe for oil pump orfice priming and while your at it change you trans filter and fluid some have reusable gasket 3 gallons of new yellow antifreeze and 3 gallons of distilled water .I installed a new fan clutch and cam followers and watch out for needing new cams to if worn these engines will last a very long time if you keep up on the timing chains oh and 2 new oil filters and a oil can for prelube and grey silicone I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things but it's a huge dirty job 80 percent of this job is cleaning the metal and gunk out of the oil pan oh an better get 2 or 3 gallons of oem ford trans fluid mine took 2 gallons I had a seal leak all fluid leaked out while sitting when doing timing job i also got new battery and alternator cost me u.s.d 3500.00 and 2 month of couple hours a day after work a total night mare but the shop would not have done this job the right way if you want it done right do it your self .now on to the axle bearing and seals that are shot 😭 oh and by the way my 2002 4.6 f 150 had 250,000 miles timing chains were fine it's the loss of oil pressure due to oil pickup screen getting clogged from chain tensioners eating themselves yep total self destruction and I kept my oil clean ya cant see the oil pickup screen clogged unless you jack the engine to the ceiling and take oil pan off it's a bear to do trans bell housing is in the way it took a miracle to get it out and 3 bottle Jack's 2 ramps and a floor jack ..
@@matthewcrews4034 You can get a complete reman engine for around $3000......
I have a complete 2003 super charged drive train sitting in my garage from a 2003 harley . The day this one shits the bed it will give me all the more reason to do the swap lol
My 5.4L March 2022- 402K Miles. Original Motor, Tranny, Starter, Driveshaft.
I can not recommend this HIGHLY enough- change all the coils at the same time & make sure they are the highest quality you get get your mitts on. NO CHEAP EBAY KNOCKOFFS ! Get Original or better. Top end Coils will keep your 5.4L running smooth and purring like a kitten. My truck is 21 years old 402K Miles and last tank of gas : 16.4 mpg. I track the mileage fanatically. I can not hear or barely feel my motor when it's running ! If you buy cheap coils you will suffer endlessly......misfires , check engine lights galore, rough running, etc.
That's impressive, thanks for sharing!
Yeah I made the mistake of buying cheap coils. Never do it.
@@darrenthoreson3924 One full year with top end coils. Running like a dream. Cheap coils were throwing codes all the time. Ran rough. I'm getting the same MPG now as when it was new.
@@matt75hooper motor craft or another brand?
@@ajmedeiros77 Denso coils. I can not stress enough how incredible the truck had been running since I put these in. I was using cheapo ebay coils. This truck has 406k miles & has been purring like a kitten with those coils.
While you're in there put new plugs in too. Any top rated plug will do. I used Motocraft.
The person that recommended the Denso is a 30 year Ford mechanic. A real fanatic too.
Good luck.
You forgot one thing on those misfires. Coolant crossover the plastic mold busting out are cracking and then the gasket blows out which causes antifreeze to get down into the Spark plug whales and causes bark plug the foul out or cold pack to go out as well lotta times you won’t see The engine coolant leak if it’s not a bad leak it could go on for six months to a year I’ve just barely leaking into those spark plug wells and just follow spark plug here and there. I know this because it happened to me. I’ve got a 2001 F150 bought it with 42,000 miles in 2005 it’s got 250,000 on it now. Knock on wood and a pretty good truck overall, it’s been good enough that I wanna keep it and I also all of the work to it. As of so far. The only issues I really had that was serious is the intake manifold. Also if you’re changing that it’s also good to go ahead and take the throttlebody and clean it really well while you have it off. My truck at the engine service light on from like 160 to 170,000 miles up until I change the intake manifold the last time and I clean the throttle body real well. Which I have not had a light come back on since. Which is wild because it still has the original exhaust and original 02 sensors as well.
Excellent video, thank you !!! I discovered just yesterday that my 2000 Ford Expedition has a blown plug. Your video helped me diagnose my problem !!!
Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment!
@@KonaBlueSVT You're very welcome !!!
My only question is this- when I take it to the repair shop here in Woodiinville, WA, will they be able to cut new threads into that spark plug hole ?? ( It's the furthest back spark plug, on the passenger side ) I could barely reach the coil with my hand. I am concerned that they may have to pull the engine to make this repair, because there is such a small amount of room. Can the thread cutting tools fit into that small space ?? Thanks for your reply !!!
@DanielGoodness87 They should be able to do any of them with the engine still in the truck. They make a special kit to fix these.
@@KonaBlueSVT I am so relieved, thanks so much for this !!! When a guy is on Social Security, like I am, car repairs are scary.....
Thanks for the updates
Big problem a had was the intake manifold cracking by the crossover and leaking coolant on the center block.
Ford wanted to buy Lotus Motors. They refused to sell. Ford then contacted their employees and offered more money to come to Ford. The engine they first designed was the 4.6/5.4 two valve.
He 4.6 and 5.4 were designed off the 2.3 pinto Motor back in the 70s
calvan kitting my whole engine currently. Hardest part is making room and getting majority of chips out of cylinder. It is an awesome DIY kit!
I installed cal-van inserts on our 5.4 2v 6k miles ago. Excellent kit. Very confident in the repair being permanent.
On the spark plugs? I just bought the spark plug kit and I’m about to do the job, what other kits did you buy
Hey, Thanks for the vid. I have a 1997 F250 5.4 runs on CNG. 7 bolt rims. It was one of Fords fleet offerings at the time. Yer truck looks great by the way!
Nice to see folks keeping the old stock running.
Hey, I appreciate it!
I have a 99 f250 5.4.2valve 7 lug.. and I've been having misfire issue, vacuum leaks and overheating
Thanks for your video. Saw your Pitt State flag. I'm a Bearcat myself. Since we have the same truck I won't hold that against you lol
Terrific video, Thanks! My 2001 F150 eng 5.4 has Motor craft OEM ignition coil part# F7TU-12A366-CD are the following the same replacement F7TU-12A366-BA or F7TU-12A366-AB
Thanks in advance, Albert D.
97 f150 5.4. I spent 2 years and at least a grand chasing lean code on both banks. No vacuum leak, plugs and coils good ,changed egr, throttle body and maf sensor twice. It always ran great but mpg was terrible. Finally take to a real mechanic, he asked when I changed maf did I also change the housing. Nope. He showed me that Ford requires the maf a d housing needs to be matched and flowed together. Put it on and cleared codes and it runs like new. Bought from Napa, about 265.00.
100% I’m not great when it comes to mechanical stuff but regardless of what vehicle I always recommend changing the housing and sensor at the same time
Thanks for your advice man!
(1997 f150,5.4,automatic,4x4)
Ok but did the MAF sensor trip the MIL?
@larrymclain no, it was lean codes on both banks.
Tried all kinds of shit to fix. Even changed maf sensor to no avail.
Finally changed maf sensor and housing as a matched unit. Codes gone and all is good since....
Did you have any misfire issues?
Thank you!!! I have a lean code, and it’s the Y on passenger side. Completely broken….sigh
I got 1 of this 03 ford f150 my po171 code was from my exalt clamp from my manifold was loss on the passenger side in also found that using the red & gray Eddie brok coil kit gives me the best 🔥
Thanks for sharing
Thank you very much I find your video very helpful
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
I had a bad idle it would bounce on my 99 f150, I switched my spark plugs about 2 -3 months ago. I don’t drive it much. I switch the EGR valve pressure sensor it calmed it down. But I ordered the egr valve to which came in later in the week. Once I installed it and turn the truck on I felt like a pressure was released while turning the truck on now When I accelerate I hear a hissing sound. Idk what it could be anyone know? Or have an idea. The truck sit most of the time vacuum lines all looked fine switched mainly all of them.
Appreciate your video. I have an ‘03super duty with the 5.4 mated to a 6 speed manual transmission. Bought it used 10 years ago with 39k miles. Never has been a daily driver, religiously maintained, now has 85k. I did a “preemptive strike” regarding the spark plug issue, having seen a video about that. The plugs were all changed out 10k ago by a guy who claimed to be familiar with the 5.4 issue. This week I am pulling a 20’ empty car hauler many miles from home and the rear most plug on the pas. Side blows out of the head, damn!! My luck, the mechanic is out of town so I am dead in the water. I watched a video today that recommends motor craft only and over tighten them from 13 lbs to 23, claiming they will never come out, and, if you do not do that, it’s just matter of time before they do. What say you?
Tightening to the higher Torque spec helps, but it's still not a guarantee. I had one personally that still blew out afterwards.
@@KonaBlueSVT how about some sticky locktite goo?
That might help, but then you will have trouble getting them out if you needed to for a misfire or anything.
On an annual basis I perform a PM on all my equipment. On my 5.4 truck the annual PM now includes re-torquing the spark plugs. In addition to checking brake pads, differential oil, coolant condition, greasing suspension, suspension wear checks, filters, etc..
Put 1 drop of loctite or superglue on top of one side of the threads AFTER you tighten the sparkplug. This will allow you to break the glue when changing the spark plugs but will keep the plugs from backing out.
My lean code was dirty throttle body and some pluged up holes behind throttle body
I had a coil misfire problem when I first got my 01 5.4 Ford. I replaced all the coils but found the problem was the clips that connect the electrical to the coils. The clips cost as much as the coils but have had no trouble since replacing them. My 5.4 2V now has over 250,000 miles and going strong.
I've had 2 F-150 5.4 2Vs, a '97 and an '03. Both had exhaust manifold gasket leaks on the right rear side, same place on both. Both required new exhaust manifolds, gaskets and stud bolts-nuts. I had both sides done on both trucks and each truck cost about $1,100 parts and labor.
That’s an absolutely ridiculous price, if you did it yourself it would have cost you about $300 and a days worth of work with no lift.
@@jmtGAMING price seems fair to me. If you can't do it yourself you have to respect the guy that will do it for you and not itch over the cost.
@@thewhomphlew I get that, it’s fair obviously for having somebody else do your dirty work. My point was for such a simple task it’s ridiculous that somebody would pay another man to work on their own vehicle when it can easily been done yourself. I still think the price is a little steep but definitely fair.
@@jmtGAMING That's only around $40 higher than my estimates for the same job, new studs and everything. No mechanic ever opened shop to give people basement bargains prices, it's to make a living, and alot of people have no desire to start wrenching on their vehicle. Nothing wrong with that.
@@jmtGAMING Yes, the price is a bit steep, but it takes a long time.... and it is not easy
A mechanic told me that the metal pipes on the left side of the engi e were known to corode and bust a hole where coolant would spit out. Reason, too much water to coolant ratio. 4 years later, it happened to me. It requires the manifold to be taken off.
That and the oil pressure sensor go out on these 5.4 engines. Some vacuum hoses and gunk gets on the air pressure sensor piece but simple two screws remove and clean with carb cleaner - cheap to fix .
Alot get egr codes too.Either the egr valve,the pressure sensor or clogged ports.
Before either of those check the hard vacuum lines going around the engine. The green and the white lines do the egr. (White lines may look yellow.)
I had an egr code did all of the Cleaning above changed both the sensor, valve and solenoid to no avail.
Wound up being a rotted vacuum lines behind the battery.
I have a 1997 f15@ and I floored it and after I let go of the gas the radio and gages started to glitch out and turn off and on then the motor turned off what should I do
(2001 Ford F150 Lightning 5.4lL) Had a blown spark plug in #3. Replaced head. Truck started to shake around 35-40mph and up. Found they replaced the coil pack with a non oem, witch does not have same fire times. Replaced all coil packs. Had a P171, cleaned air intake and filter, no engine light so far. Now my OBD2 will not read, has power. but My truck now shakes around 40 mph and up. Does not shake when in 2nd gear. Still trouble shooting. Also had a ABS light and turn signals would not work, due to a leaky front window. Water was entering the cab running down to the fuse box under the dash. A quick kick to under the dash to vibrate any water on the wires it goes out. Any idea of the shaking at 40mph and up with no engine light or obd2 reading or a hard crank but will start problem would help alot
Sexy truck 🛻 The small hard plastic vacuum lines off brake boost can rub on intake if they don’t have a protective cover
Thanks!
I have a 97 f150 5.4 with 250000 miles only have to change 8 coil over regular oil changes
Runs like new great truck
I would also like to add if an unfortunate overheat issue occurs. Then you will experience head gasket issues as well.
That's driver error
Our 03 expedition just shuts off randomly it restarts but it’s doing it more and more lately
My dad owns a 07 e350 with the 2v 5.4 and the only major problems it has had over the 12 years of ownership was bad catalytic Converters and a probelm with the coil packs causing the engine to randomly shutoff at any time, we found out that the coil packs (which we had recently replaced) were defective, so we reinstalled the factory coil packs and its been running fine since then.
Replaced the coil packs on my 5.4 and fixed the misfire and fixed what I thought was a transmission problem. Used a good set of msd street fire coils. Had to get the light offf to pass inspection. It’s passed inspection then the light came back on a week or so later. I wonder what caused this.
Yes, happened on My Excursion V10 2v was getting codes on shifter. changed all COP original 167K , fixed.
Need to replace all COPs not just the failed one.
The reason they blow spark plugs is under torquing of the plugs. Torque to 25 lbs dry and you'll never have a problem.
It helps, but is not a cure all.
Hey brother. I don’t mean to step on your comment, but Ford issued a service bulletin on this probably 18 years plus ago now. It’s not that your comment is incorrect because it’s not. After my blowout just outside of warranty I did the research on this because I was pretty pissed. Ford acknowledged that incorrect machine work was the true culprit. There was only 2-3 threads machined into the heads for the plug to grab and hold. To give you a idea of how inadequate that is, in the Air Force if there wasn’t at least 3 threads showing on a nut it was a safety violation. So if you allow a minimum of 4 threads in the nut plus the 3 it’s obviously 7 threads. Granted, we’re talking about equipment considerably more expensive than a F-150 but it shows how far they missed the mark. They admitted the problem, and this was pre kit repair so I had to pay a dealer almost $2k to pull the head and repair it. They had you by the nuts back then. If they would’ve issued a recall they were looking at bankruptcy, so they let all of us absorb it. Not quite like changing some rusty gas tank straps. But as I said you are correct, the others were torqued to spec and I haven’t had a problem since. But with the trauma of the initial failure I do a torque check about every 20k miles give or take. Call it paranoia. Luckily the trucks 22 now and driven less than 2k a year. Sorry so long but I kinda was ranting on Ford. But I’ve purchased 5 more Fords since. I’m not sure if I’m loyal or stupid, but the rest have been very dependable nice vehicles.
@@scottjones8737
Well put, thank you
@Kurtis Waskey 🤣 your joking right. Your overdrive had noting to do with it. 🤣 that like telling the new guy to change the blinker fluid.
@@scottjones8737 excellent overview and correct information. I own a 2001 F150 5.4 and have blown out two plugs at different times. Luckily my mechanic used the kit and it’s worked out. Good advice to double check the torques periodically. Thanks!
I have a 2003 f150 5.4 triton heratage an its spuing oil an ovee heating oils brand new an all over my block (street ).I replace the thermastate bot shur whats up at all.
The coil and injector connectors are bad about deteriorating and causing a miss fire.
( 1997 F150,5.4 automatic,4x4)
Ok good video what kind coil should I get heavy-duty ones
I would go with the OEM coils. The aftermarket ones are hit and miss.
Ive seen where the spark plug had cut into the spark plug hole threads.after it poped out.
Sometimes when the plastic intake goes bad coolant will fill the spark plug well and cause a misfire also.
Also rusts the plug & cause issues getting a socket on it . Gotta scrape it & blow to get out
@@richardstrange2432 Absolutely!
My lower intake manifold was leaking. When the mechanic pulled it off, it had a Dorman manifold. The mechanic replaced it with another Dorman manifold. Best advice use Motorcraft.
I have issues w both P0401 and P0402 at the same time. Very confusing. Looks like the P0401 was carbon clogging the EGR ports in the intake manifold. I'm still searching for what causes the P0402 code. Any ideas?
Maybe o2 sensor?
Thanks for video
Thanks for the comment!
Mine keep showing bank 5 and 8 went light did come on, getting the light to come on is all most impossible
Tip for anyone looking for ignition coils. The MotorCraft coils are made by DENSO.
Get factory quality coils without the markup.
DENSO #673-6000 is the part number.
Just bought mine and everything was fine. Now I have a stupid knock at higher rpms and no load. Apparently that's a 5.4l issue too. Super annoyed.
I have a 2002 F-150 Kingranch with the 2v and ive had to completely rebuild the intake with new parts and my pcm getting fried after 300k miles and a lot of abuse from the previous owners. Ive already gone througu the whole fuel system and timing system.
My 2000 4.6 2v has 297,000 and has had most of these except exhaust and issues with popping plugs. Most frustrating for me was an intermittent idle at 2300 rpm. IAC was opening...it wasnt the IAC or ECM...TPS wiring harness was shorting out and forcing IAC wide open. Runs perfectly now.
Hi would that cause misfire. I’ve trying to trouble shoot a misfire. Did full tune plugs and coils, maf sensor, cleaned out throttle body, and checked for vacuum. Leaks. Still scratching my head!. I unplugged the TPS today and I noticed the idle changed but went back to normal when I reconnected.
@makinmusikpro I wasn't seeing a misfire with the high idle. It was scary as heck coming to a stoplight though.
i have an 01, 5.4 . i keep getting missfire on cyl #3. mech said bad coil and replacedit. ran good for appx 3 weeks and bad #3 coil again. He replaced coil and ran fine for another 3 weeks, then agin missfire on # 3. He said they had a recall on the brand he was using, he put in a different coil and good for a month then same thing. he did a pressure test, no coolant in cylinder, plugs looked good. Now I have it on # 4 cyl. this seems to happen when it RAINS. The day after the rain truck runs fine ,with same coils, until next rainy day. I have taken the shroud off between windshield and hood, no clogged drain holes, ive caulked this shroud, caulked the ground screw holes in the firewall, checked the wiring harnesses for skint insulation, ive caulked the washer spouts on the hood, sprayed the water hose over truck for 30 mins, checked under hood and no visible water around the coils, or any where else. dry todat and truck runs fine????? Ive looked at the fuel control ? box above the spare tire doesnt look corroded or cracked. HELP pls
Good vid. appreciate ya..
Thanks!
Calvan spark plug repair kit. I DID ALL 8 IN MY ENGINE .Best in the market.
I changed plugs and injectors on my 2001 ford f150 supercrew lariat with the 5.4 triton and now it will not stay running. Any help would be appreciated
Why did you change them? Are they OEM plugs and injectors? Does it start, but not stay running?
I have a 1999 expedition 5.4l 191k miles. Runs great, tons of power. Has a subtle knocking noise sounds like a quiet desil motor. Everything ive seen with similar noise was on the 3v phasers. What could be causing this on my 2v? Gets quieter after it warms up to temp. After 1200 rpm i can't hear it over the engine. Louder when colder outside.
Could be an exhaust leak, especially if it improves after warm up.
I have issues with 98. Mainly #4, I've replaced coil and boot but can't get the plug to break loose. I moved fuse block out of the way still not enough room
2 things I have had luck doing on stubborn spark plugs. The first is to perform a fuel induction service, it helps break up any carbon inside the cylinder that is holding the plug in. The 2nd is get the engine to operating temperature and then fill the spark plug well with penetrating lube, let it set for a couple days and then try to get it out.
Coolant loss problem I just learned to accept it like a cup to 2 cups every 3 to 4 days depending on how far I drive it
Also I kept getting a misfire in # 1. cylinder after 2 shops diagnosed the problem after replacing plugs all 8. All 8 boots replaced on #1 cylinder the injector and the coil pack replaced still there was a misfire and check eng light still on. And scanner read misfire at start up both shops said it’s a blown head gasket coolant leaking into cly #1. They said I needed a new motor
Motor and truck have 200,000 miles well I kept driving it since it was only stalling at start up but then cleared after warm up
To make a long story short it ended being my coolant cap
I disconnected the battery cable which cleared the check eng light. Then reconnected it. Then I bought a new cap installed it. Like I turned hand tight only no clicking sounds just snug. Well it’s been 200 miles and I’m sure the computer has recycled and the check engine light is still off and I’m keeping on eye on my anti freeze and oil level. Truck runs as good as new
Some pple may disagree but I don’t have 8,000$ for rebuilt long block labor and parts. I’m just gona drive it till it dies. My truck is
2002. Ford F-150 XLT. SuperCrew 4.6 automatic
The Coolant cap was bad and not venting causing excessive pressure inside the motor and cylinder heads probably forcing coolant into cly #1 causing that misfire at start up. Good luck to all. First On Race Day
Did your misfire ever come back? I keep getting cylinder #1 misfire comes and goes. Replaced coils, spark plugs, I even swaped out Injectors and it still came back for like 2 minutes and then went away idk what else to think lol pulled the coil and spark plug out and it's bone dry and looks super clean! Swaped out plugs too. You ever figure out the issue?
@@golpherboy13
Hi
I sure did it was something so simple. My dad made the same comment to me watch it will be something simple. He was an equipment mechanic gas and diesel for Santa Fe Railroad back in the day, and on weekends I would help as a kid work on the family cars trouble shooting tune ups or engine overhauls we did it all , so now as an adult I don’t get Into rebuilding but the rest of it trouble shooting tune ups change parts I do get into it and love it. My dad was a Ford man also!!
Any way it ended up being the coolant cap it was holding to much pressure or not venting and caused my coolant system to overheat like a volcano it was causing enough pressure in the left side head gasket to leak Into cylinder #1
So during the day it ran fine but when it sat at night under pressure that’s where it would relieve itself and piss coolant into that 1 cylinder causing a misfire every morning and the check engine light would come on. But once it burned the coolant it ran fine. I changed plugs boots checked all the wires on all the injectors coils on all 8 cylinders I replaced the the #1 coil and injector and plug and boot and still no luck . Also I was loosing coolant and I couldn’t figure out why it wasn’t leaking no leaks any where. I refilled my coolant burping it correctly slowly replaced the coolant, bought a new coolant cap tightened only finger tight do not let it click click or lock in place and that solved the whole problem
That coolant cap was now breathing off the side of the cap and from the vent it’s been maybe 6 months problem never came back. Good luck!!
@@joecarreon4824 did you ever do a compression check?
It's hard for my thoughts to go to:
If the cooling system created enough pressure to push coolant through the head gasket, then the gasket would have to be shot. When the cylinder fires there will be far more pressure on the head gasket than the cooling system could ever create, so wouldn't there be an overheating condition happening?
If it is working, great! I would continue driving it as well.
@@markchidester6239
Hi Mark. Yes I had a mechanic check the compression and it was fine all equal all pistons,
It was the weirdest thing In my years of owning cars and trucks but it’s been running in top shape since I repaired the truck. I’m at 200,000 miles and going strong no overheating issues summer or winter or towing or off-road.
Thanks for your comment
Good info! Does the 5.4 GT500 share the block as this one?
No, completely different. The 11 and newer gt500 are aluminum blocks.
@@KonaBlueSVT What about 07-10?
I believe they were the same block as the 3v 5.4. The 2v was similar, but not identical.
@@KonaBlueSVT ok, thanks man!
Thanks. Are you a certified mechanic?
I am thinking of helping a friend out and buying his old F150.
It is having misfire/spark plug related issues.
Would it be worthwhile to buy it from him for a dirt cheap price? He just can't afford parts and labor at the moment.
Lastly, how much do you think an engine rebuild costs on this truck?
THANKS IN ADVANCE
It depends on alot of factors, year, condition, options, mileage, how cheap you can get it, etc. These things are super reliable, but not all that valuable unfortunately. Rather than trying to rebuild, it would likely be cheaper to just buy a reman engine. Last time I looked, you could get one for around $2800.
I have a 98 f150 with a 5.4 extended cab 4x4 and it has 268,724 miles as of right now. Only issue I have seen is rear main failure, dipstick housing broke off in the block and exhaust manifold cracked making a leak. All this happened at 242,288 miles. No other issues with the engine.
I am dealing with a coolant leak into the cab. I found a puddle on the floor of the driver side inside the truck. There is a smell in the air conditioning but hot air and cold seem to work ok. There is also a bit of fog in the AC when it is on. I’m thinking it could be the heater core but I’m not sure. Truck is a 2002 5.4 Supercrew fx4
Very likely the heater core
@@KonaBlueSVT Thank you. We'll be driving it this way for a bit until I save enough to get it fixed. Or I might try to just buy the part and do the scary job myself. I'm thinking about it.
Good Luck!
@@KonaBlueSVT I replaced the heater core last fall on my 2001 F150 5.4L 2 valve. You need to be confident enough to remove the entire dash. Watch the available videos, several times. There are different tips on different videos. the professionals who are doing it repeatedly can get it out in 15-20 minutes, but they KNOW where all the difficult bolts are, and how to get to them. I took about two hours to get mine out, referring back to the video several times. I had chopped off the hoses in the engine compartment and bypassed the heater core last spring, knowing that in Texas I wouldn't need heat until late fall fall. So it stopped the leak until I had time to take it apart and replace the core. I was 67 at the time, not a professional mechanic, but I have done a lot of car repairs in my time. Then i replaced the radiator, the intake manifold, drilled out and tapped two additional spark plugs that blew out, and now this week I have to replace the timing chains and tensioners, oil pump and valve ccover and timing cover gaskets and I may have to drop the oil pan as well. 22 yr old ride w/313,000 +miles. Can't complain too much,
Heater core
My 01 Eddie Bauer expedition 2wd is sputtering while accelerating. it's the first one I bought so idk the whole in's and out's of it.. I did the plugs, air filter, fuel filter, cleaned the tank (didn't replace fuel pump though)... If I replace the pump and it still does that what does that mean internally? Im used to carburators I don't know fuel injection too well but I get it. Its check engine light is on btw. It runs great but it could run better. I got it for $600 from a family friend and he took care of it from what I can tell. Fluids are good, start up is good, idle is good, but I was just looking for advice on the motor and troubleshooting. This video was great BTW
Definitely check the codes first, check fuel pressure before throwing a pump at it.
@@KonaBlueSVT will do, thanks 👍
My Father just gave me his 98 expedition XLT 4x4 5.4 Triton it shifting really hard into 3rd & 4th gear can anybody guide me or give me any kind of information on this my uncle said it might be the transmission mount but it only shifts hard and 4th and 3rd all the other gears are smooth doesn't make sense to me
Check fluid and save up for a new jasper tranny.
Hey wondering how your gas mileage was in the 5.4 f150 I recently bought one just trying to base it off of similar trucks mine is the 03 f150 7700 with the beefer 7 lug rims an I believe on f250 frame
My 03 does 17 on the highway on a good day. It's got 3.55 gears. My 99 with 3.73 gears never did better than 15.
Thanks sir
Thanks for the comment!
That's a beautiful red ij the 150, idk if I've ever seen a red one like that
Thanks!
i have a 2003 expedition with 320000 miles. it has recently started misfiring and throwing a misfire code. i replaced all coils and sparkplugs and the passenger side pcv valve and the hose that was connected to it because it was collapsing in on itself. It runs fine when cool but as soon as it heats up it starts misfiring again.
to note i did have a coolant hose bust and was getting antifreeze into the sparkplug boot.
Like the content boss, but may I make a suggestion?? Recommended to anyone , disconnect the negative from the battery!!!!
Always a good idea!
I have Ford f150 2003 Triton 5.4L v8 it cranks but no start codes system to lean in banks 1 and 2. codes for oxygen sensor and fuel pump circuit high. It has new fuel pump, fuel ,filter ,fuel pump relay , fuel injectors, plugs and coil packs. but is still crank no start. already spent lots of money on her but not starting any ideas
Does it have good consistent spark? Have you verified fuel spray out of the injectors?
Same thing was happening to my 04 expedition until I found the issue was the fuse/relay box had corrosion on some parts causing bad connectivity with relays. Connected fuel pump directly with a shut off/on fuse and issue solved.
hey. is there anything that leaks oil under the intake manifold?
The intake or heads.
I have a 1998 Ford F-250 with the 5.4 triton. It has an issue with the engine shutting off when I stop at a red light. It has no idle problems, and is throwing no codes, the engine just shuts off all of a sudden. Any idea what could be causing that? Thanks.
Low on trans fluid
Fill the radiator with pepsi
hello I am French and I have a 1998 expedition, I have a code p304 with p171 and 174 it can also come from the cylinder 4 coil? THANKS
Fix the misfire code 1st. Switch cylinder 4 coil with another cylinder and see if the misfire moves with the coil or stays with cylinder 4.
Getting misfires. Got new plugs and coils for all 8. Still getting slight misfires. Mechanic ran test amd thinks the piston rings are worn and a new motor is needed because its burning oil. Its drivable for now but i dont want to drop thousands on a new motor. Im trying yhe barrs stop oil burn to see if it helps. Any ideas ?
Throw some marvel mystery oil in ur motor to try to clean things out. Don’t do an engine flush cuz that can do more harm than good. That, & throw a gallon of the strongest fuel system cleaner you can get your hands on.
Preferably not sea foam, but try to get the lucas or the blue devil stuff. Then get like 2-3 bottles of one or both of em.
Dump em I’m in the tank, & see how it runs.
Sometimes the rings are nasty, & need to be cleaned out.
If you truly have rings that are hanging up due to deposits, the only product I have found that actually works is a product call EPR. It is made by BG Products. I would also run a couple cans of 44K through the system as well. These may or may not fix the problem, but would be worth a try.
Question! What about a clogged vent between the fire wall and the windshield? Will that cause it to misfire to?
I am not sure what you are referring to?
@@KonaBlueSVT the vent that's up by the wiper blades
That shouldn't have anything to do with runability. That is your fresh air for the climate control.
Just bought a 2000 e350 5.4 for 500 bucks from a university in OH has 167,xxx on the dash starts runs ands drives no check engine but gives a ticking sound when I hit the gas. Not even sure where it’s coming from. Plan on replacing all plugs and coils hoping to get 150k miles from it
Good chance it's an exhaust leak.
The misfire problem on mine (03 F250 5.4L 2v) is proving very difficult to diagnose. Changed fuel filter, did not help. Checked ECM with scanner, no codes and the O2 sensors are showing the proper voltage. Finally changed ALL the coils with brand new Edelbrock coils and new Autolite plugs. She ran great for 3 days, but now the misfire came right back. Runs rough, low power, feels like a misfire. I guess I'll have to recheck every plug and replace each coil one-by-one until I find the problem. Going to start with #4, then #8, then #7, and so on (hardest ones first). If it still has a misfire, then maybe I'm just going to replace the ECM.
Have you looked at your fuel trims when it's misfiring?
@@KonaBlueSVT Well it's misfiring all the time. The idle is decent, but you can still feel it. When you say fuel trims, you mean looking at the live data stream on the scanner?
@@KonaBlueSVT Well it's all over the place but at idle I have 4.7 on LTFTRM1 and -12.5 on LTFTRM2. At 2200 RPM I get 4.7 on LTFTRM1 and -6.3 on LTFTRM2. On deceleration Bank 2 went as high as 15.49 while Bank 1 was at 0.0.
Check your exhaust back pressure. A plugged cat could cause opposing fuel trims.if that is OK, check compression, jumped timing could also cause this.
01 Expedition 255,000. Reg oil/filt change. Not much else.. Still good. How many miles can I hope for?
I've seen lots between 300,000 & 400,000 !
I had a misfire on my 03 f150. Was just bad sparkplugs. Replaced them all engine is good otherwise
can someone help me i have problem with the driver side all 4 coils not working i changed camshaft sensor but didn't fix it and i don't have check engine light
How have you verified a whole bank of coils is not working?
I have a 2003 F150 Lariat super cab. Sometimes it won't start. The key chip indicator flashes instead of coming in and staying on steady. The motor spins but that's all. Using the command start works. Is there a connection problem with the chip reader? Can this be changed out? I assume that the command starter bypasses the chip reader to allow starting without the key. Is it possible to bypass the chip to cure the problem permanently? Sometimes these safety/ helpful ideas by Engineers drive me draft! Lol
Do you have another key to try? The security light should flash rapidly for 60 seconds, then it will flash a 2 digit code. This may give you a place to start.
@@KonaBlueSVT Thank you. What happened was that a previous owner put in after market interior lights. They wired it upto the ignition system. When the lights shorted out. So did the ignition system. So the shop that I put it into took out the after market lighting but also disabled the command start. I took it back in after the ignition wouldn't work. They hooked it up but after a couple of trips it again has security chip connection malfunctions. My next chance is with the shop that put in the command start. I think that it is a programming problem. Because a command start has to bypass the chip to enable the motor to start without a key in the ignition. I hope that this works. I have a back up key from a lock shop. The original and the back up key have the same issues. So it is chip connectivity problem. I think.
I did put the Ford code reader on. It read codes 1000 and 1260. I haven't hot a hand book so I haven't found out what they identify.
I have a 2003 f150 5.4L 2V and have a code po172 I change all the related parts and still have the code nothing else. but on my scan tool have always a LT FTRM1 -19 to-23%. don't know what to do.
What are the related parts?
The only two systems that can add extra fuel to these engines are the EVAP or the Fuel pressure regulator.
A stuck evap valve will allow unmetered fuel vapors into the motor from the gas tank.
The fuel pressure regulator can leak and send fuel backwards down the vaccum line.
Both of those can be tested with a vacuum pump. Both should hold vacuum.
Lastly you could have a leaky or stuck fuel injector, but it’s a little less uncommon. Though cleaner does help.
@@trevorsmith5524 I solved the problem it had a cheap fuel injector. So have to replace all fuel injectors standard ignition brand. and no more code po 172
I blew the plug, but I didn't do the helicoil because I felt it was an intense job, I took it to a mechanic because it was over 116 degrees outside, and it was Cylinder fkn 8, right under the damn dash! There are a few ti es in my lifetime where I will concede.
I have 485k on a 2003 expedition is it cheaper to swap with another motor or rebuild.
Swap
I need help. I have a 2001 f150 5.4 litre Tritan V8. I got a code 307 and changed plug and coil on cylinder 7. Then I got code for EGR sensor. Now I am getting two codes. 307 and 174. Need advice please. I have good power but real rough idle and hesitation.
Have you checked the fuel trim? I would look at the PCV hoses to check for a vacuum leak.
@@KonaBlueSVT thanks appreciate it. Will do.
About the spark plugs
It’s in all models?
Or just on that year?
I believe they fixed it in late 02.
2002 5.4, blew the rear plug passenger side, can t even see the hole, is it worth fixing 200,000 miles
If it's been maintained well, yes. You have another 100k easily.
Repeated misfires in cylinder 3. Cannot figure this out. Changed all coils plugs and an injector. Ran perfect for months. Then intermittently cylinder 3 again starts to misfire. Now it’s doing it all the time. I’m extremely frustrated with this. I’ve played musical coils tested injector connectors for voltage all good. Why’s this keep happening?
What brand coils did you buy? Have you checked fuel trims when it's happening?
@@KonaBlueSVT Haven’t checked fuel trim thanks for the tip. Coils were TRQ’s. I moved them around same problem. I’m getting power at the injector when engines running. I’m going to check again to see if it pulses with a better test light.
I found any lub around coil or boot will burn coil up.
Hello, I’ve got a 2003 5.4 F150 what been going on is it was my dads truck my dad passed so it sit for two years, it was time to get it up and running I got it going but it drives good then it seems like it goes into safe mode no power the I pull over let it sit for a couple minutes then start it up then it runs good after a while it does it all of again do ya hav any idea what could be goin on??? Thank with all the help you can give me
Robert
Help
Check for codes and look at the fuel trims.
2001 Ford F150 5,4 with about 30,000 miles on a rebuild
What years was the spark plug problems with it blowing out ?
I believe it was mid year 2002 that got the updated heads.
I have a 00 f250 with the 5.4 2v replaced pcv valves purge valves 02 sensors, camshaft sensors truck runs great but once warmed up and sit for 35 45 minutes and starts back up it has a horrible choppy idle almost like a cam, any ideas?
Have you checked fuel pressure? Can you see what cylinders are misfiring on a scan tool when the problem happens? Does the problem go away above idle?
Mine sent out o2 sensor codes. Now when I’m at a light it try’s to stall. The idle is going out if I don’t shut it off or put it in neutral and Rev the engine it will stall. If it is in park the idle drops and it will stall out. Help??
Have you checked the idle air control valve?
I had a 97 f150 that died sometimes when idle and going into reverse. I tried seafoam there’s a large vacuum line coming out at the fire wall (driver side near brake booster) pull off hose start truck and let it suck in a little seafoam! Cleared up my idle big time
Buy a new OEM EGR valve , your welcome!
my air valve modulates for a few seconds then stops for a few on and on when it warms up can you tell me whats up with this 2001 5.4 2v. i do have a vacuum code but it happened before the code came up. it almost sounds like a machine gun . rpms change to.
I am not sure what valve you are talking about? Are you speaking of the idle air control valve?
@@KonaBlueSVT yes right on top
Remove it, clean it or replace it.
those boots are equal or they are marked according to its cylinder where they came from?
Coils and boots are the same across all cylinders
Thanks 4 the info!!
What if you just use some blue locktite on the spark plug threads? That stuff works great.
I know some Ford techs that do recommend this.
Just keep in mind that thread lock compounds are weakened by heat, by design.
@@TheEogprod Not true! I’ve even used it on flywheel bolts and high heat areas and never had any issues.
I’ve been pretty lucky with mine, had a plug pop out once, and valve cover gaskets leak, manifolds are good and the intake gaskets are so far so good.
Had a friend with a coolant leak from his intake manifold on his 4.6 but he never changed his coolant and the gasket rotted out at the coolant channel
I’ve been told you don’t need to change this newer coolant 😂
that's a nice truck
Thank you!
What do u know about rocker rollers popping off on cylinder 7?
Not something I have dealt with.
Watch the TH-cam videos, for the triton 3valve engine, 2004 & later, the needle bearings wear out, they get pushed down, the cam starts dragging on the steel, then the cam lobe gets chewed up, jams, and the roller follower gets kicked out into the head, pieces can get into the intake manifold, then the valve falls down into the combustion chamber, damages the piston head, engine is toast