How to Replace Front Wheel Bearing & Hub 2006-12 Ford Fusion
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2021
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New Wheel Bearing & Hub Kit from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1ASHS00884
Not only can a worn wheel bearing or hub be annoying if it is noisy or vibrating, but it can also lead to accelerated wear in other parts, or unsafe driving conditions. Replacing your worn bearing or hub with a quality TRQ part is a safe, smart, decision. This video shows you how to install a new wheel hub and bearing on your 2006-2012 Ford Fusion.
• Check here for more videos on the 2006-2012 Ford Fusion: • Ford Fusion 2006-2012 ...
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2006 Ford Fusion
2007 Ford Fusion
2008 Ford Fusion
2009 Ford Fusion
2010 Ford Fusion
2011 Ford Fusion
2012 Ford Fusion
Tools you will need:
• Impact Screwdriver 1aau.to/oa/1AXAA00047
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/oa/1AXAA00020
• 17mm Socket 1aau.to/oa/1AXAA00015
• Press
• Pliers
• Side Cutters
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oa/1AXAA00044
• Copper Anti-Seize
• Center Punch 1aau.to/oa/1AXAA00055
• Chisel 1aau.to/oa/1AXAA00055
• Hammer 1aau.to/oa/1AXAA00091
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Check out our playlist:
Ford Fusion 2006-2012 1st Generation: • Ford Fusion 2006-2012 ...
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
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I just bought a 2011 Fusion and the front bearing just started rumbling. I'm watching this video with my jaw to the floor.
It was super nice, and super professional of you to OMIT, the heating of the lower ball joints!!!
For the DIYer ANY/ ALL information, is helpful!!!
In this particular instance, you can see "why" you should pay a mechanic to accomplish this task.
Never
This is not a video for the do it yourselfer. Some don't have air tools, press ect. There are other ways and videos out there that show how to do it without removing the whole knuckle. Have done it many times.
With how Rusty that brake rotor was I'm actually shocked you didn't have more trouble getting those two lower ball joints separated. I fought with those for a while, ended up cutting them off and using a regular ball joint press to get them out.
After that I separated the sleeves off of them on my hydraulic press.
Awful design
That's a lot of smoke for a hammer at five minutes......lol
That's because he used a torch on it while the camera was away. Lol
Just did this job on my son's 2011 with 50,000 miles.
Actually went quite well.
Soak....SOAK.... Everything with a good penetrating oil and let sit for a couple of days. Do it twice if you have the time. And use heat before you think you'll need to.
Looks like you needed to take a sledge hammer to the axle looking at how mushroomed the end of the axle is. I also see smoke so you didn’t mention the heat from the torch you used. I like that people are making videos but to the average person they might not notice some of the stuff you did off camera that you don’t mention. Maybe the thought behind it is that if you are smart enough to do this then you will notice these things. I’m thinking for the average garage mechanic with limited tools maybe it’s easier to buy a loaded knuckle that already has a new hub and bearing. Overall the video is informative but the average person might not be able to handle a rusted setup like this. Did you also replace the axle and brakes and not mention that as well?
Why not leave the nuts on mostly to hit the ball joints or tie rod os tap the rotor to loosen as not to damage the thread.
Not gonna lie, you gonna need to torch the living shit out of the lower arms to get those to come loose
Or buy the ball joint tool from harbor freight to put pressure on the stud. don't forget to oil and hammer away!
Excellent video! Thank you!
Awesome video! Thank you.
Great video! But I have a question: On this particular vehicle, can you just remove the hub and bearing assembly from the axle using a hub puller, without removing the entire knuckle assembly? Or is that the only way?
Anyone know if its the same part # for the fusion SPORT?????
can u replace the studs without removing the hub in these ?$)!
Great video!
Can you press the bearing onto the hub first or is that a no go?
Wow just in time to replace mine!
What size socket for the big nut?
i had a shop press a quality bearing in and didnt last, proper torque and everything. I replaced the who knuckle assembly with a moog and it has been fine.
Why not just remove the caliper bracket all together so u don't have to worry about the brake pads coming out. It's two bolts and your good
he was replacing brakes. If you arent replacing your brakes, this is what you would do
My real question is where did you get those snap ring pliers cause I couldn't find any like that to save my life and my snap ring gave me absolute hell to get off with round edged snap right pliers (I even pinched my palm in the pliers -_- was not fun at all)
Hi. How to replace the door actuator?
To add to dirty miner apparel, you also should hand pack the new wheel bearing with grease. At minute 9:55 you can see the gap in the internal bearing. Hand pack that gap gull of grease before you press the hub in. Great video
You are incorrect. This is a sealed bearing , only tapered roller bearings need packing.
11:22 the ABS light will soon come on. can anybody see why?
Didn't explain *at all* how you removed the inner race from the spindle hub
I paid like $50 online for the wheel bearing, I regret not spending another 70 and just getting a new steering knuckle with the bearing already. This was my first time on a car that was front-wheel drive and turned on upper and lower ball joints instead of the strut and the lower the strut in a lower Ball joint. I will never do this again it was awful really just horrible lol
Forgot to mention whats the torque for the cv axel.
????
This is why i watched it.....189 foot pouns at ride height.
What size socket for the AXLE NUT???
+Anthony Carchidi You may use a 17MM socket.
when removing the large axle nut , you forgot to mention to spread lip on nut where the keyway is.
How much is it torqued back down to?
Them lower ball joints look like there a big problem !
I’ve seen several of this dudes videos and I wouldn’t let him touch my vehicles.
Much easier way to do this without taking the knuckle off and needing an alignment. Just get a free loaner slide hammer and ball joint press.
I have one of the holes for a lug bolt that got stripped(the hole not bolt). I just want to replace whatever i need so i can have all 5 lug nuts for the car. Do i have to do all this to do so. And also how does the tools you mentioned make it easier. Thanks
An entire knuckle with hub is only $120. Much easier just to replace the entire thing. But good video!!!
+@anthonycarchidi2579 Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
The bottom ones gave me stress just watching you
I just did this and my axle splines were stuck in the hub like you would not freaking believe…I had to beat the damn hell out of it, off the car, with my Thor hammer. Ruined the hub and bearing in the process.
So when you assemble, put lots of Never Siez in the splines!!
So much rust !!! Incredible 🤦🏻♂️