These are the Tools and Parts I Recommend: Ford Wheel Bearing amzn.to/2ypDCLs Timken Wheel Bearing amzn.to/2WWMgeq Medium Strength Threadlocker amzn.to/2Jr5n8H Torque Specs Axle Nut- 189ft lbs Caliper Support Bracket Bolts- 55ft lbs Caliper Bolts- 23ft lbs Wheel Lug Nuts- 100ft lbs As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Hi I just replaced a caliper on the front of a 2000 f150 two wheel drive and bleed the brakes but It seems that I have air in the master cylinder is there a way to bleed the master cylinder or do you think I still have air in the lines.? Do I require a auto bleeder I'm not sure if this truck has ABS
I bought an air operated bleeder unit off Amazon a while ago. Seems to work good on Ford and Chrysler trucks. I think GM is the only oddball that needs a scantool to autobleed
@@poesypoet a truck that old wouldn't take to much to bleed. I had a 2004 Ram and had to replace the rear brake lines. Bled it in 5 minutes, easy peasy
Thanks for posting this Brian. My wife has a 2010 Fusion FWD. Sitting about 66,000 miles right now so low miles for its age but she'll probably need these sooner or later. The car has been extremely dependable so far!
Thank you so much for this video! My Daughters car needed it and she was quoted $450! Nice to know it's an easy fix, and even with the rust i was able to complete it in no time at all
Great video! I'm glad you highlighted the rust belt complications. I watch a lot of videos where they say something like, "...and this will slide right off". I laugh, and plan an extra hour of pounding, heating, penetrating oil soaking, etc. to get things to come apart.
What a great idea for a wheel hub. Sure beats having to use an air chisel to hammer off a bolt-on hub, or have to use a press to remove/press in new bearings. Sometime Ford gets things right! Great video as always Brian!
I haven't done one of these yet. I like that design! Slips right off - nice! It's not often in the 21st Century I see engineering I like ... Good stuff, Brian - thanks! You and the family stay safe out there. 👍🍻
Dear Ford Tech, I sold my 2007 Fusion SE last year in May. The final act was when engine block had a crack and was consuming oil. I loved the fusion and the part I likes the best was the truck. The designers maximized the trunk space for me to fit my road bike there with the single seat folded down. It was my first car I bought that wasn't a handy down. I purchased a 18' Malibu to replace it. So far it's good. But I really miss the fusion trunk. Anyway, you make good videos I used for reference when I had my Fusion!
@@stuartbear922 if Ford was smart, they would have left it alone after the 2011 model year, everything was pretty much worked out and fairly simple and reliable. After 2012 it went south quickly.
I left the caliper on the rotor and slipped it off togther after taking out the torx screws. Saved time and hassle of messing with the breaks and pads. Thanks for the tool sizes and torque specs. Had to go get a 35mm socket. Otherwise quick and easy.
Thanks for the video, nice job. I sometimes I remove some of the 'rust ring' from the edge of the rotor before reassembly. It doesn't take much dressing of the built up rust to allow easier remounting of the caliper-pad assembly. Thanks again for a clear description of the process.
You could just remove the rust ridge with a very light grind on both surface edges of the rotor. However, it is a good idea to disassemble the caliper bracket and inspect the pads if well worn. Great instructional video.
I know I just don't like the idea of taking off metal on one section of the rotor potentially throwing off the balance and grinding off the entire rust ridge would be time consuming not to mention the rust dust stays with you for days.
Good video, Great info thank you for posting. What I did before taking the break assembly off was I took a flathead screwdriver and depress the piston just a little and that assembly will come right off, and it will go back on easy also.
I really love people who know what he is doing. If I would live there, it would be nice to bring my focus Mk2 Tdci. Greetings from Turkey. Hava a nice day!!
Nice work, Marine. Your info will help me with replacing the wheel bearings on my 08 Fusion. Semper Fi!!
4 ปีที่แล้ว +2
Brian, New intro! Love it! My 2014 Ford Explorer Limited at 101,000 miles had major water pump failure! Just out of warranty. $5449 bill Ford Motor Company paid $5000! I only paid the rest. I called Ford Southern California Rep while the vehicle engine was being torn apart at Galpin Ford. Ford's largest dealer in the world. 30 years going! In any event. Bad Ford engineering design. Fixed along with leaking engine mounts. Like new!
$5k for a water pump and engine mounts? Did it take out the engine? I did a water pump on one in 8 hours and $100 in parts, no way thats a $5k job
4 ปีที่แล้ว
It's just not the water pump and engine mounts. According to Ford, there are another 120+ parts. Had to check camshaft for wear or possible damage due to the coolant etc....
José Benito Martínez Jr. sorry dude, that price is crazy. Add on an hour to pull off a couple cam caps to check. Another 5-700 in parts if your doing all the timing at the same time.
Your engine possibly overheated thus requiring a new engine. Or, some Fords have the water pump inside the engine and when it fails, it fails big time!
4 ปีที่แล้ว
@@stuartbear922 no. In matter of fact it was being serviced for 100k at the dealership. The night before in the garage I noticed a leak and after seeing this channel on Brian's fix on this issue, I filled the resovoir with water. Sure enough the dealership did a water pump pressure test and they confirmed my suspicion!! Leaking water pump.
I am no sure why I watched this video. At the house we drive Chevys. Regardless, some the tips given could be applied to any make. Great video, detailed and clear.
Thanks for the video, extremely helpful. For the later fusion it's the same process but the ABS sensor is incorporated into the assembly and there is no center hub nut. Took me almost an hour to break it off the spindle, believe me living in the 'salt belt' is no fun!
Good video, but I NEVER resuse the rotor retainer bolts. Like you said, it does help hold the rotor in place, but for how many I've had to spend an hour drilling out it's not worth it (to me.).
I always grind the rust ring off or tap with a hammer so as not having to fight the caliper back on. A C clamp is a good helper to push the pistons in a bit. If it is not a twist in, that is!
Antiseize on wheel studs is very bad, I agree 100% with you there. I try to stick with OEM as much as possible when doing any repairs on vehicles, and especially with wheel bearings. Timken and SKF are pretty good brands as well. How do you like that cordless impact, does it have a lot of torque?
When putting new pads on the rear; the inner pad has a pin built onto the pad. Does that pin have to align with one of the 4 holes on the caliper, or does it automatically line up with break use?
Thanks, Brian! You always make it look simple. The sign of a real pro 👍🏻 Keep yourself and your family safe. Ps is it true your cat claw was US Marine issue ?? 😉 Thx to you I use one all the time around my place. I even bought one (Husky)for my wife. Actually, she "borrowed" it...
I sure do wish you and your shop were in Northern California. Do you, or for your upcoming videos show how to replace the power steering fluid in a F-250 with the Power Stroke Diesel.
Hey Brian, I’ve gotta 2006 f150 with a 9.75 rear end, lsd and 3.55 gears, any idea on what I should do for new clutches? Maybe if someone makes carbon fiber clutches like they do for the 8.8
When ever I pull a caliper I use a small pry bar or screwdriver to seat the caliper pistons to spread the pads from the rotor before trying to remove the caliper. Just curious why you don't use that technique.
Brian, Could you comment on why you would/would not recommend using a cookie wheel to knock down the rust ring/ridge on both sides of the brake rotor to help with reinstallation of the caliper/pads. Thanks Paul (in MA)
99% of the time this is not needed but here it would of helped a bit. Problem is the rotors were pretty worn almost like someone did a pad slap in the past and reused the rotors. In this case its more than a rust ridge that can easily be ground off and I was not going to open that can of worms wondering if that was the case. So at that point its super easy to unbolt the caliper quick and finish the job. I think removing 2 more bolts from a caliper bracket is quick, easy and the proper way to deal with this concern not to mention you avoid all the rust dust that gets in your nose and lungs.
2015 Ford Fusion FWD rear assembly swap was easy peasy. Remove the lugs, 2 caliper bolts and 4 assembly bolts. Install new one. Less than 30 minutes a side.
Gotta love the shims in the Ford brakes and those two pesky wire springs. Just did a front brake job on a 2009 Milan and cussed them until i put the bracket on first. Are the wire springs on the rear also as i didn’t see a reference in this video? Thank you or all your informative videos, keep em coming.
Second opinion? I have a car that started making tire noise after hitting a raccoon. Wheel bearing tight, alignment good, no tire damage, no uneven wear. Even 7000 miles later at the next oil change, still no loose bearing. I would have thought something would be chewed up, loose or obviously damaged by now. I just don't want to fire the parts cannon not knowing for sure. 2008 focus open to ideas
so I'm finding your like for a motorcraft hub 21 from ROCKAUTO and your link is Hub 22. is there a difference?? There is a diff in the price, thats for sure. 2012 for fusion SEL 3.0
Mine isn't humming that loud yet but I am gone change it as quick as possible tho had a car that had a bad bearing noise one time ans thot it would be okay to drive til i got another one and the dam wheel came off it was so bad!!!💯😂😂🤘😈🤘 Had to chase the wheel down an bring it back wit me lol
Captain good morning I have a 650 abs activates every 1 minute. Even with key off I put the IDS and can communicate with abs module Check powers and grounds good check comms and they are good any idea ? I’m a little lost
ok so im going to have to check mine, I get a brake squeal but its all new components so either the bearing is going mildly bad or somehow im missing a shim because its not constant but rather intermittent. Happened after driving a good 13 hours straight.
FYI: It's not much different. This video helped a lot. The only thing worth mentioning is the hub and control arm were corroded together SOOOO bad it required a press to pop it out.
Hi I'm Arthur from Tijuana Mexico . I have a 06 Expedition my control seat recliner broke and i open the power switch and have s a replacement . Recliner
These are the Tools and Parts I Recommend:
Ford Wheel Bearing
amzn.to/2ypDCLs
Timken Wheel Bearing
amzn.to/2WWMgeq
Medium Strength Threadlocker
amzn.to/2Jr5n8H
Torque Specs
Axle Nut- 189ft lbs
Caliper Support Bracket Bolts- 55ft lbs
Caliper Bolts- 23ft lbs
Wheel Lug Nuts- 100ft lbs
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Hi I just replaced a caliper on the front of a 2000 f150 two wheel drive and bleed the brakes but It seems that I have air in the master cylinder is there a way to bleed the master cylinder or do you think I still have air in the lines.? Do I require a auto bleeder I'm not sure if this truck has ABS
I bought an air operated bleeder unit off Amazon a while ago. Seems to work good on Ford and Chrysler trucks. I think GM is the only oddball that needs a scantool to autobleed
@@canadiantrucker9574 Thanks I didn't even think about a vacuum pump
@@poesypoet a truck that old wouldn't take to much to bleed. I had a 2004 Ram and had to replace the rear brake lines. Bled it in 5 minutes, easy peasy
Toolbox tour!
I wish all wheel bearing replacements were as easy as this one
Thanks for posting this Brian. My wife has a 2010 Fusion FWD. Sitting about 66,000 miles right now so low miles for its age but she'll probably need these sooner or later. The car has been extremely dependable so far!
Nice.
Thank you so much for this video! My Daughters car needed it and she was quoted $450! Nice to know it's an easy fix, and even with the rust i was able to complete it in no time at all
Great video! I'm glad you highlighted the rust belt complications. I watch a lot of videos where they say something like, "...and this will slide right off". I laugh, and plan an extra hour of pounding, heating, penetrating oil soaking, etc. to get things to come apart.
What a great idea for a wheel hub. Sure beats having to use an air chisel to hammer off a bolt-on hub, or have to use a press to remove/press in new bearings. Sometime Ford gets things right! Great video as always Brian!
I haven't done one of these yet. I like that design! Slips right off - nice! It's not often in the 21st Century I see engineering I like ...
Good stuff, Brian - thanks! You and the family stay safe out there. 👍🍻
I always like it when you show how a job is supposed to be done and the problems that may arise during the repair and what you do to overcome them.
Dear Ford Tech, I sold my 2007 Fusion SE last year in May. The final act was when engine block had a crack and was consuming oil. I loved the fusion and the part I likes the best was the truck. The designers maximized the trunk space for me to fit my road bike there with the single seat folded down. It was my first car I bought that wasn't a handy down. I purchased a 18' Malibu to replace it. So far it's good. But I really miss the fusion trunk. Anyway, you make good videos I used for reference when I had my Fusion!
The original Fusion is a wonderful vehicle. How many miles did yours have ?
@@stuartbear922 I purchased it at 95K and sold it at about 145K. What was your fusion like?
@@stuartbear922 if Ford was smart, they would have left it alone after the 2011 model year, everything was pretty much worked out and fairly simple and reliable. After 2012 it went south quickly.
Huge thanks my man. I would’ve never been able to done this had I not found your video. You saved me $450. Went with the Moog
I left the caliper on the rotor and slipped it off togther after taking out the torx screws. Saved time and hassle of messing with the breaks and pads. Thanks for the tool sizes and torque specs. Had to go get a 35mm socket. Otherwise quick and easy.
Thanks for the video, nice job. I sometimes I remove some of the 'rust ring' from the edge of the rotor before reassembly. It doesn't take much dressing of the built up rust to allow easier remounting of the caliper-pad assembly. Thanks again for a clear description of the process.
You could just remove the rust ridge with a very light grind on both surface edges of the rotor. However, it is a good idea to disassemble the caliper bracket and inspect the pads if well worn. Great instructional video.
I know I just don't like the idea of taking off metal on one section of the rotor potentially throwing off the balance and grinding off the entire rust ridge would be time consuming not to mention the rust dust stays with you for days.
Good video, Great info thank you for posting. What I did before taking the break assembly off was I took a flathead screwdriver and depress the piston just a little and that assembly will come right off, and it will go back on easy also.
Wish all wheel bearings were this easy to replace
Thank you Brian. I need to replace a rusted dust shield on my Fusion and this video has clarified how to do this repair.
I hope you are staying safe also Brian. Great vid. Thanks !
Brian, I love your channel. I hope you and your family stay safe.
every time I have wheel off on my Escape, I spray everything around it with Fluid Film. Rust is relentless in NJ.
Fluid film is a neat product.
Fluid film? Ill have to look that up thnx
I really love people who know what he is doing. If I would live there, it would be nice to bring my focus Mk2 Tdci. Greetings from Turkey. Hava a nice day!!
Nice work, Marine. Your info will help me with replacing the wheel bearings on my 08 Fusion. Semper Fi!!
Brian, New intro! Love it! My 2014 Ford Explorer Limited at 101,000 miles had major water pump failure! Just out of warranty. $5449 bill Ford Motor Company paid $5000! I only paid the rest. I called Ford Southern California Rep while the vehicle engine was being torn apart at Galpin Ford. Ford's largest dealer in the world. 30 years going! In any event. Bad Ford engineering design. Fixed along with leaking engine mounts. Like new!
$5k for a water pump and engine mounts? Did it take out the engine? I did a water pump on one in 8 hours and $100 in parts, no way thats a $5k job
It's just not the water pump and engine mounts. According to Ford, there are another 120+ parts. Had to check camshaft for wear or possible damage due to the coolant etc....
José Benito Martínez Jr. sorry dude, that price is crazy. Add on an hour to pull off a couple cam caps to check. Another 5-700 in parts if your doing all the timing at the same time.
Your engine possibly overheated thus requiring a new engine. Or, some Fords have the water pump inside the engine and when it fails, it fails big time!
@@stuartbear922 no. In matter of fact it was being serviced for 100k at the dealership. The night before in the garage I noticed a leak and after seeing this channel on Brian's fix on this issue, I filled the resovoir with water. Sure enough the dealership did a water pump pressure test and they confirmed my suspicion!! Leaking water pump.
Nice tutorial as usual, and not a swear word during the whole thing!
Thank you so much to all your videos and all your hard work you doing for us (Ford owners).👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Now, schedule the fronts for the entire weekend. You’re gonna need it for this fusion/milan generation.
Great videos....I like to take my 4" grinder with a flap disc and knock that rust off the rotors edge...makes life a little bit easier....stay safe 👍👍
I would do the same; a sanding disk in a hand drill or air drill, and done.
Brian, Thanks for continuing to post these videos. I always learn something.
Thank you for taking the time to make this education video's
I learned a lot from you and your video's keep them coming
I am no sure why I watched this video. At the house we drive Chevys. Regardless, some the tips given could be applied to any make.
Great video, detailed and clear.
Thanks for the video, extremely helpful. For the later fusion it's the same process but the ABS sensor is incorporated into the assembly and there is no center hub nut. Took me almost an hour to break it off the spindle, believe me living in the 'salt belt' is no fun!
Brian,
Great video and fix - thank you! You stay well/safe too!
God bless
Paul (in MA)
🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧🎥🎥👍👍👍
Thanks for the video. Good Morning Brian!
Good repair and demonstration as always
Thanks sincerely for making all these excellent videos!
Your the best ford man!
Ford tech doesn't make me loco. :)
You did a great job...keep up the good work
Good video, but I NEVER resuse the rotor retainer bolts. Like you said, it does help hold the rotor in place, but for how many I've had to spend an hour drilling out it's not worth it (to me.).
I always grind the rust ring off or tap with a hammer so as not having to fight the caliper back on. A C clamp is a good helper to push the pistons in a bit. If it is not a twist in, that is!
Steven Fuchs on
This guy's the man!
I guess you changed the camera. Much better image now.!!!
Hi thank you for your video what about 5 pin. drum rear wheel bearing Ford Focus 2006 MK2
Brian dont you put some grease in the hub greaser ?
Antiseize on wheel studs is very bad, I agree 100% with you there. I try to stick with OEM as much as possible when doing any repairs on vehicles, and especially with wheel bearings. Timken and SKF are pretty good brands as well. How do you like that cordless impact, does it have a lot of torque?
When putting new pads on the rear; the inner pad has a pin built onto the pad. Does that pin have to align with one of the 4 holes on the caliper, or does it automatically line up with break use?
Did you replace those wonderful lugnuts?
No they were in read good shape actually no bulging.
I think you should show a little bit how your business run. Looks interesting your work.
Good video man.
Probably about time to do my 2010 Hybrid.
Thanks, Brian! You always make it look simple. The sign of a real pro 👍🏻
Keep yourself and your family safe.
Ps is it true your cat claw was US Marine issue ?? 😉
Thx to you I use one all the time around my place. I even bought one (Husky)for my wife. Actually, she "borrowed" it...
Would you recommend doing the other side also?
I have a 2006 Freestyle with a possible leak from the front main bearing. Do you have a video of how to replace that?
I sure do wish you and your shop were in Northern California. Do you, or for your upcoming videos show how to replace the power steering fluid in a F-250 with the Power Stroke Diesel.
Hey brian, what do you use for video cellphone or camera? What kind
iPhone 11 Pro
Great qualitt, very impress,I thought that was a highend camera
Do you need to replace the other side for percussions
no but I recommend doing sets, in fact on my own I just do all 4
Hey Brian, I’ve gotta 2006 f150 with a 9.75 rear end, lsd and 3.55 gears, any idea on what I should do for new clutches? Maybe if someone makes carbon fiber clutches like they do for the 8.8
Is it possible to take the bearings out of the hop and put new ones in
You wouldn't happen to have a video on how to replace the wheel bearing and hub assembly for the front end of the same vehicle?
When ever I pull a caliper I use a small pry bar or screwdriver to seat the caliper pistons to spread the pads from the rotor before trying to remove the caliper. Just curious why you don't use that technique.
Thx for the post! Well done. Look forward to the next one.
Do you have a video for the 2007 awd fusion rear wheel bearing
Is there a video for the AWD version?
Do you prefer the Milwaukee cordless impacts over the DeWalts? Love your Videos.
Definitely, power, reliability and their battery systems have not changed one bit so all the tools are compatible.
Brian,
Could you comment on why you would/would not recommend using a cookie wheel to knock down the rust ring/ridge on both sides of the brake rotor to help with reinstallation of the caliper/pads.
Thanks
Paul (in MA)
99% of the time this is not needed but here it would of helped a bit. Problem is the rotors were pretty worn almost like someone did a pad slap in the past and reused the rotors. In this case its more than a rust ridge that can easily be ground off and I was not going to open that can of worms wondering if that was the case. So at that point its super easy to unbolt the caliper quick and finish the job. I think removing 2 more bolts from a caliper bracket is quick, easy and the proper way to deal with this concern not to mention you avoid all the rust dust that gets in your nose and lungs.
great video with great step by step info thanks
I just did mine but got abs sensor lights coming on afterwards, any ideas how to fix that?
Great job brian. Stay safe 👍🏻
Great Video! Who makes that hand ratchet you used in the beginning?
Do I have to remove the bearing and hub to replace a broken wheel stud on the rear of a Fusion (2010 fwd)?
Another great video Brian, thanks 👍😁
You feeling ok? Sinuses?
Feeling great!
2015 Ford Fusion FWD rear assembly swap was easy peasy. Remove the lugs, 2 caliper bolts and 4 assembly bolts. Install new one. Less than 30 minutes a side.
Brian, were you using a 3/8 or 1/2" Milwaukee impact on this job?
Gotta love the shims in the Ford brakes and those two pesky wire springs. Just did a front brake job on a 2009 Milan and cussed them until i put the bracket on first. Are the wire springs on the rear also as i didn’t see a reference in this video? Thank you or all your informative videos, keep em coming.
I want to know where to pick up the hub/spindle nut
Nice video Brian thanks for posting!
Second opinion? I have a car that started making tire noise after hitting a raccoon. Wheel bearing tight, alignment good, no tire damage, no uneven wear. Even 7000 miles later at the next oil change, still no loose bearing. I would have thought something would be chewed up, loose or obviously damaged by now. I just don't want to fire the parts cannon not knowing for sure. 2008 focus open to ideas
So no grease on shaft before you slide on the bearing hub
so I'm finding your like for a motorcraft hub 21 from ROCKAUTO and your link is Hub 22. is there a difference?? There is a diff in the price, thats for sure. 2012 for fusion SEL 3.0
Mine isn't humming that loud yet but I am gone change it as quick as possible tho had a car that had a bad bearing noise one time ans thot it would be okay to drive til i got another one and the dam wheel came off it was so bad!!!💯😂😂🤘😈🤘 Had to chase the wheel down an bring it back wit me lol
Captain good morning I have a 650 abs activates every 1 minute. Even with key off I put the IDS and can communicate with abs module Check powers and grounds good check comms and they are good any idea ? I’m a little lost
Need a video on a all wheel drive fusion
what speed were you going ?
30 maybe.
Would you replace both rear bearings?
No.
Is it EASY TO ONLY TIGHTEN 2013 FORD FUSION? PRETTY SURE ITS FRONT REAL DRIVE & DRIVER SIDE REAR TIRE HAS LOSE BEARING
I had to laugh when you said it was rusty. If that was here in the mid west you would take about an hour just to get it off. LOL
I live in Chicago...
Been a mellow winter here in chicago thank god
ok so im going to have to check mine, I get a brake squeal but its all new components so either the bearing is going mildly bad or somehow im missing a shim because its not constant but rather intermittent. Happened after driving a good 13 hours straight.
Nice video as usual. The bearing nut size (35mm) would be good information to include.
He did say the nut size as he was putting it on the impact.
Where can I buy a nut
Do not use impact on bearings they will break?
How different is replaceing ther rear bearing on this car but on the AWD version? Cheers!
FYI: It's not much different. This video helped a lot. The only thing worth mentioning is the hub and control arm were corroded together SOOOO bad it required a press to pop it out.
@FordTechMakuloco Do you have all the torque specs for the 2nd gen Fusions(2013-pres) 2 wheel drive 2.5L SE?
Is this the same as Hybrid?
Thanks!
Is the front replacement the same process?
No it is much more involved.
Can a bad bearing cause the inside edge of the tire to have cupping?
A severely worn one yes.
Hi I'm Arthur from Tijuana Mexico . I have a 06 Expedition my control seat recliner broke and i open the power switch and have s a replacement . Recliner
This is the same for an 07 Lincoln MKZ.
Would this be the same process on my 2011 ford focus?
no
You also need to knock the rust off the front of the rotor and the back of the wheel.
Is it any different for a 2013?
Awesome channel 👍