You need to delete VATS for the engine to run! Check out Universal Patcher if you don't own HP Tuners: th-cam.com/video/_5W0MOkikCM/w-d-xo.html People have been making great progress on free open source tools to re-program these ECUs.
Dude thanks for simplifying this I have been looking at diagrams and listening to long rambling videos about the starter and fuel pump trigger. Great video!
This is the kind of simple info people need, thanks. Any time you look up "wiring LS engine and cpu" you normally get a bunch of armchair mechanics spewing out the same stuff they heard on other sites, and no real info. This was concise and to the point..well done!
By far the most simplified video yet. Great video. I’m working on a 4.3 vortec but it’s fairly the same the only tricky part was the fuel lines when I needed fuel lines ran I plan on making a video once I figure out the pins that I need.
ROFLMFAO!!!!! I LUV the gellato not the ice cream container. Oh that's priceless!!!! Thank you for the info brother. Strait and to the point. Very.good info. Thank you again.
I've got a 2004 avalanche and can't seem to find the correct pin for the neutral safety switch. I also wish you'd have shown the wire connections on the fuse boxes. I didn't pull mine so I don't know what goes where
I wonder if the engine ever ends up on the floor when you start it up on the engine stand, because there's quite a bit of twist when you first start it up.
I have a similar engine ls3, I did the electrics as you have in the video. We programmed the computer and turned off the "vats system". Unfortunately, the engine did not start. High voltage comes to the spark plugs, but no impulse comes to the injectors. Maybe you can advise me what could be the reason. Diagnostics shows me the error P0315. The sensor is working. Thank you very much in advance
I'm trying to ls swap my 56 chevy truck. Using the factory silverado fuse box and I can't figure where the solenoid power wire goes from the ignition switch. Any tips?
Yeah something is off with my setup, although it looks the same. I'm not getting power to F1 when the ignition is on. I get power on other pins on that c3 though.
I finally got my engine to start, but it was a bunch of extra loop hole(I have 02 so idk how different it is) and for some reason, it doesn't idle it just revs up high RPMS Probably something with the IAC.
So I’m trying to start my ls I have power to my fuse box and I have power to my fuel pump useing the same wires u said but I can’t get the ignition trigger wire to fire my stater ? Fuse maby ??
Yes, check the 40 amp ignition fuse shown in the wiring diagram in my video. You should also check the ground connection for the starter relay (wire D12) because if there is no ground the relay won't fire.
@@PeterDenHartogEng hmm..i have an 09 Cadillac escalade with the 6.2..it remote starts with no ignition on...see where I'm going? So if an aftermarket remote start is compatible with most ls engines, is vat delete really necessary?
@@wadebond7679 I know some remote start installers will just go the cheap route and actually zip tie a VATS key inside the steering column to bypass VATS, and some brands (Stellar) claim to have a VATS bypass system built in. I don't think any of them just work without any bypass though.
It's a video of a guy on youtube deleting the vats by using a running vehicle. So You Swap the pcm out of the donor vehicle with yours. Do a key relearn. Start vehicle. Unplug the BCM while the engine is running and it will lose communication with BCM causing security to be disabled on the pcm.
@@PeterDenHartogEng Hello. We checked all electrical connections from beginning to end. Below I am sending you the PDF file that we have guided. Everything is perfectly connected. Fuel pump works, throttle works. High voltage is coming from the spark plugs. The engine cranks if we pour a little fuel into the intake manifold and shuts off soon. Impulse does not come to the injectors. In 2-3 days I should bring Raspredval sensor. If that doesn't help, we have to send the computer back. I can also send my old computer to you along with the computer, and maybe it will be programmed well. We think there is no agreement between Raspredval and Kallenval. Tomorrow I will change the sensors and test it. I'm also sending you a photo where you can see how I fixed the factory electric wires and added a nest of protectors with relays. Please help me get this engine running. I will give you an answer in 2-3 days, if it does not work, I will send both computers. If you have the opportunity, install a programmed computer on the engine and test it.
Wait so everything else made sense but how did u get the engine to have spark, like how do u shut the spark on and off, I have my switch hooked up to A9 and when I switch it on I still have no spark
Should be fine. Even if you don't cut it, it's not like the original wire is connected to anything when it's off the truck (since there won't be a neutral safety switch connected).
They're a bit more complicated because you have to worry about VVT and AFM but I'm sure you could follow the same process that I did for this engine: Use the ECU pin charts at lt1swap.com/gen5wiring.htm and just go wire by wire to find the important ones to get it started (12v, ground, switched ignition, and fuel pump relay)
My fuse block must be slightly different because the ignition wire pin looks incorrect on my fuse block ( I also get no activity when I give it power). Where do you get your wiring schematic?
I actually got the diagram from the Autozone website. www.autozone.com/diy/repair-guides/wiring-diagrams They don't seem to have every vehicle, but they had the Silverado that my engine came from.
@@PeterDenHartogEng thanks, I'm going to check into it. I don't remember what truck I got the harness and pcm from. The engine was a Silverado. I need to plug into the pcm to see the details on it.
@@PeterDenHartogEng I'm slowly catching the rabbit down the hole - hey Peter, idk if you still have this setup but had another question for you. The wire you have for Connector Block 1 terminal A9, how is that fuse labeled on your fuse block? Or in other words what I'm asking is what circuit do I need to energize to energize the ignition/pcm process?
@@diydadsht9785 That wire actually energizes about 5 fuses and 4 relays on my fuse block, so it's not as simple as finding one fuse. If you can find the wire that provides power to the IGN 1 relay then you've got the right one. It also powers the AC relay and rear defog relay on mine, so those might be a clue too.
@@PeterDenHartogEng .do you have a ground wire going to fuse block. My fuel pump relay keeps clicking. I know one side of relay need 12vdc and the other needs a ground to close switch for fuel pump relay. ??
![โอ้เธอช่าง... - บี้เดอะสกา ft. ต๋อง เทวัญ (Prod. by ป๋าเพชร) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zbWhiLFmVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
![LS Swap VATS removal using free programs PCM Hammer & Universal Patcher!!!!! [Full Tutorial] Ep.#1](/img/n.gif)
You need to delete VATS for the engine to run! Check out Universal Patcher if you don't own HP Tuners: th-cam.com/video/_5W0MOkikCM/w-d-xo.html
People have been making great progress on free open source tools to re-program these ECUs.
Clean and simple! this is a must for the new guy to ensure everything is still working as the go thru the harness. Thanks a million!
Dude thanks for simplifying this I have been looking at diagrams and listening to long rambling videos about the starter and fuel pump trigger. Great video!
Doing Gods work on this vid. Thanks!
This is the kind of simple info people need, thanks. Any time you look up "wiring LS engine and cpu" you normally get a bunch of armchair mechanics spewing out the same stuff they heard on other sites, and no real info. This was concise and to the point..well done!
By far the most simplified video yet. Great video.
I’m working on a 4.3 vortec but it’s fairly the same the only tricky part was the fuel lines when I needed fuel lines ran I plan on making a video once I figure out the pins that I need.
Just bought a ls for my swap, I didn't know they could be started from a cardboard panel😂 thanks for explaining
Awesome. Thanks man
Thank u I've been ripping wires out of my truck for a little over a week now should be able to run her like that
the most simplified video yet. Great video.
Awesome video. Never dreamed you could start an ls on a regular motor stand
Great video. Very simple the way you explain it!
I’m going to run the exact same approved fuel thank thanks👈🏻🤣
Sounds like a good one
I like the Gelato comment 👌top just top.
Very good so glad i came across this video
Hey man, finally got my problem fixed, I had the wrong pin for the ignition and my fuel pressure was too low.
Best gelato ever🤘🏼😂
Thanks for the content
Lmao 😂 I love the fuel tank advise thank you 😊 haha
Great video man thanks!!
Broham I am saving this vid!!!! Thanks
on the C2 connector you use f11 and put your starter wire to it. is that the same on a 03-07 harness.
ROFLMFAO!!!!! I LUV the gellato not the ice cream container. Oh that's priceless!!!!
Thank you for the info brother. Strait and to the point. Very.good info. Thank you again.
Very helpful video 👍
Thank you!
I've got a 2004 avalanche and can't seem to find the correct pin for the neutral safety switch. I also wish you'd have shown the wire connections on the fuse boxes. I didn't pull mine so I don't know what goes where
I wonder if the engine ever ends up on the floor when you start it up on the engine stand, because there's quite a bit of twist when you first start it up.
nice job
I have a similar engine ls3, I did the electrics as you have in the video. We programmed the computer and turned off the "vats system". Unfortunately, the engine did not start. High voltage comes to the spark plugs, but no impulse comes to the injectors. Maybe you can advise me what could be the reason. Diagnostics shows me the error P0315. The sensor is working. Thank you very much in advance
What did you do for the computer, I was told it had to be flashed of the anti theft system?
I'm trying to ls swap my 56 chevy truck. Using the factory silverado fuse box and I can't figure where the solenoid power wire goes from the ignition switch. Any tips?
Yeah something is off with my setup, although it looks the same. I'm not getting power to F1 when the ignition is on. I get power on other pins on that c3 though.
Would you recommend wireinv it this way in what ever car you ls swap
I finally got my engine to start, but it was a bunch of extra loop hole(I have 02 so idk how different it is) and for some reason, it doesn't idle it just revs up high RPMS Probably something with the IAC.
im assuming vats has been deleted from the pcm
so I can use my fuel pump wires on my 88 silverado as long as I use the existing wires with my ls fuel pump
did u get your ecm tuned at all or is it stock
Wish someone did a simpler wiring diagram for starting one on a stand. They all seem different
Could you run it without a tune and if not is their way you could
No, you need to remove vats. Check out Lowbuck LS for a way to do it for free: th-cam.com/video/ae-WWVEcCSI/w-d-xo.html
Will this work while it's still in a Tahoe? The ignition is ripped out so I can't test it. I'm wanna know if it's good before I buy
Probably not unless you bring HPTuners to disable VATS
What ls motor is this I'm looking to swap my new edge mustang and I want to know where I can pull this engine from with everything already
This is the motor out of a 2001 Silverado. Make sure you tell the junkyard not to cut the harness up when they pull it, because they usually do.
What kind of fuel pump did you use for this test?
Where do you have the starter purple wire going
Can we get a link to where you bought the hp tuners. I'm ready to fire my motor once I can get a flash for the vats
I did the tune myself, I just bought HP tuners from their website. Disabling vats is super simple, no in-depth knowledge required.
@@PeterDenHartogEngcan you also delete emissions stuff with hp tuner
So I’m trying to start my ls I have power to my fuse box and I have power to my fuel pump useing the same wires u said but I can’t get the ignition trigger wire to fire my stater ? Fuse maby ??
Yes, check the 40 amp ignition fuse shown in the wiring diagram in my video. You should also check the ground connection for the starter relay (wire D12) because if there is no ground the relay won't fire.
Thank u I will check the fuse after work the ground wire fir the relay ? U lost me there ?
Hey my dad had a question for this vid but his iPad is too old to do that, he’s wondering if you had to remove the VATS from the computer?
Yes, I removed the VATS with HP Tuners. I think that if you don't remove it the fuel pump relay will shut off.
Thanks for the quick reply 👌👌
@@PeterDenHartogEng hmm..i have an 09 Cadillac escalade with the 6.2..it remote starts with no ignition on...see where I'm going? So if an aftermarket remote start is compatible with most ls engines, is vat delete really necessary?
@@wadebond7679 I know some remote start installers will just go the cheap route and actually zip tie a VATS key inside the steering column to bypass VATS, and some brands (Stellar) claim to have a VATS bypass system built in. I don't think any of them just work without any bypass though.
It's a video of a guy on youtube deleting the vats by using a running vehicle. So You Swap the pcm out of the donor vehicle with yours.
Do a key relearn. Start vehicle. Unplug the BCM while the engine is running and it will lose communication with BCM causing security to be disabled on the pcm.
I have a 6.2 engine. So I tried and it didn’t work out. I am told that I need an immobilizer. Please tell me if you need an immobilizer?????
Yes, you will need to use HPTuners to disable the VATS system, or send the ECU to someone who does that
@@PeterDenHartogEng Hello. We checked all electrical connections from beginning to end. Below I am sending you the PDF file that we have guided. Everything is perfectly connected. Fuel pump works, throttle works. High voltage is coming from the spark plugs. The engine cranks if we pour a little fuel into the intake manifold and shuts off soon. Impulse does not come to the injectors. In 2-3 days I should bring Raspredval sensor. If that doesn't help, we have to send the computer back. I can also send my old computer to you along with the computer, and maybe it will be programmed well. We think there is no agreement between Raspredval and Kallenval. Tomorrow I will change the sensors and test it. I'm also sending you a photo where you can see how I fixed the factory electric wires and added a nest of protectors with relays. Please help me get this engine running. I will give you an answer in 2-3 days, if it does not work, I will send both computers. If you have the opportunity, install a programmed computer on the engine and test it.
Wait so everything else made sense but how did u get the engine to have spark, like how do u shut the spark on and off, I have my switch hooked up to A9 and when I switch it on I still have no spark
Do you have VATS tuned out of your ECU?
@@PeterDenHartogEng I’m not sure but I’ll assume no I don’t how do I do that
Which fuel pump did you use?? And you run with a pressure regulator?
Stock fuel pump and pressure regulator from a 2001 Silverado
Is it ok to not cut f 11 and just give it 12 volts
Should be fine. Even if you don't cut it, it's not like the original wire is connected to anything when it's off the truck (since there won't be a neutral safety switch connected).
Reflash ECU?
Did you have to delete the VATS off the computer before you can get it started on the stand?
Yup, I tuned out with hptuners.
Do you know anything about the L83 motors wiring wise?
They're a bit more complicated because you have to worry about VVT and AFM but I'm sure you could follow the same process that I did for this engine: Use the ECU pin charts at lt1swap.com/gen5wiring.htm and just go wire by wire to find the important ones to get it started (12v, ground, switched ignition, and fuel pump relay)
@@PeterDenHartogEng thanks I was on his site today browsing, need all them horse powers
My fuse block must be slightly different because the ignition wire pin looks incorrect on my fuse block ( I also get no activity when I give it power). Where do you get your wiring schematic?
I actually got the diagram from the Autozone website. www.autozone.com/diy/repair-guides/wiring-diagrams
They don't seem to have every vehicle, but they had the Silverado that my engine came from.
@@PeterDenHartogEng thanks, I'm going to check into it. I don't remember what truck I got the harness and pcm from. The engine was a Silverado. I need to plug into the pcm to see the details on it.
@@PeterDenHartogEng I'm slowly catching the rabbit down the hole - hey Peter, idk if you still have this setup but had another question for you. The wire you have for Connector Block 1 terminal A9, how is that fuse labeled on your fuse block?
Or in other words what I'm asking is what circuit do I need to energize to energize the ignition/pcm process?
@@diydadsht9785 That wire actually energizes about 5 fuses and 4 relays on my fuse block, so it's not as simple as finding one fuse. If you can find the wire that provides power to the IGN 1 relay then you've got the right one. It also powers the AC relay and rear defog relay on mine, so those might be a clue too.
@@PeterDenHartogEng thanks for the help I appreciate it. I'll let you know how it goes
Did I remove the security system first from the computer?
I dont know did you😊😆
@@JoseContreras-mv5yz i mean did u remove it ?😁
How long can you run it without coolant hooked up?
I would not run it more than 30 seconds without coolant
@@PeterDenHartogEng .do you have a ground wire going to fuse block. My fuel pump relay keeps clicking. I know one side of relay need 12vdc and the other needs a ground to close switch for fuel pump relay. ??
What fuel pump is that
Stock pump from an '01 Silverado
Yah but for a stand alone harness you need to delete the vats system🤦 I'm just gonna run it like this and say screw the stand alone for now
What engine stand is that
It's the harbor freight 1000lb engine stand.
Napoleon dynamite
what about the vats delete?