@@DavesAutoCenterCenterville do you think the fuel filter systems on these trucks are capable of protecting these expensive engines? I don't. The OEM filters are a joke. I'm very familiar with boat applications and something like a Fleetguard FF5000 - FS1000 - FF5776 will actually protect the injection system. a system like that is actually cheap by any measure. Even the VW TDI crowd has a kit to fit a CATERPILLAR fuel filter to protect the injection system.
@@DavesAutoCenterCenterville Dave, new to following you. Do you ever come across used trucks for sale that you have the chance to sell? I would fly out to Utah to pick it up, love Utah! I have the exact same questions as this gentleman, loved this video!
I wish you many successes on that. The business management side of owning my own shop is not something I desire to deal with. I just work on my buddies cars. They give me petty cash for it.
Ford Senior Master Tech here and this is my recommendations. 1st and foremost read your owners manual and the scheduled maintance section. Ford uses what is called an IOLM for oil changes which stands for intelligent oil life monitor. The IOLM monitors many things to include engine load, vehicle speeds, temperature, regenerations events, etc to calculate when an oil change is due. Most of the time it is right around 7500 miles on a 6.7 diesel. I prefer factory filters since i have seen all the issues with cheap aftermarket filters. Highly recommend trans, diff, t-case svc every 60k unless severe use like constant towing then reduce to 30k. Fuel filters every 15k. All air filters every 20k unless real dusty conditions then drop to 10k-15k. Ford makes an excellent fuel additive that is designed to work with your fuel system and boost cetane and lubricity. I use it in my 6.0 diesel and buy it by the gallon to refill the single shot bottle which treats 35 gallons diesel, much cheaper that way. 1 gallon PM-22-GAL, single shot PM-22-ASU. DEF fluid is 32.5% urea and i have not seen any real issues with different brands. Generally you will fill the DEF tank at every oil change. When the system goes into regen it is very important to complete the regen before shutting off the engine. Incomplete regens cause more issues than you can imagine. Diesel fuel is a crap shoot on quality and actual cetane rating. Here in Oregon it is crap compared to what is found in other states. Ford designs their engines off a cetane rating of 44 and here if you find 40 cetane your lucky. Just like gas there is summer and winter blends of diesel.
Great info! Any tips for starting a 6.7 (2019 F350) that’s been sitting for a few years. It’s stored in Boise Idaho (indoors) so it’s pretty dry but can get cold in the winter / hot in the summer.
7500 oil change intervals!!! Yes you are DEFINITELY a master technician. That advice is why these diesels are going bad. 3k mile oil changes especially a diesel!
Props to this guy the who is willing to say that he doesn’t know about his truck and is willing to listen learn and ask good questions Never to old to expand your knowledge Keep learning
I do 5k oil changes . Oil is much cheaper than a new motor. 20k on coolant because it is also pretty cheap. I do brake fluid at 30k , trans at 30k and diffs at 30k. Just installed the S&S fuel pump so also put a new thermostate and a new drive belt. My secondary radiator does have a very small leak on the plastic corner, will do this soon. Great video and info.
Not a mechanic, but bought a2002 F-350 w/7.3L new, an old timer mechanic told me years ago, change your filters regularly, use marvel mystery oil in your fuel and oil. The truck just rolled 418,000 mi. Still drive her every day!! Good luck with your new truck. Dave, another gem, thanks for doing these vids and sharing your knowledge, it is much appreciated. 👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
I have a 2000 F-350 with 180K on it, had it for 21 years we use it to snowbird to Florida from Washington St for the last 5 years pulling a 30 foot travel trailer gets 10 to 11 mpg
i just traded my 2014 F250. At 76, I am no longer in need of a diesel. However, it looked and drove like a brand new truck after just over 100k miles. I changed the oil, fuel filters and trans fluid on schedule and used Arch Oil products religiously. Never had injector problems or EGR issues. Regens were so infrequent that it was a big deal to see one. I also did not idle it for anything other than a traffic light and minimized short trips because diesels like to get warmed up and run - not stop and go or just to the corner and back. I listened to Bill Hewitt videos - did not know about you then. Loved the truck and hated to downsize to a Tacoma but it was time. No more RVs for me - had 5. I literally put more miles on my golf cart now in my retirement community than I do on my truck. Keep up the good work, you are a great source of how to maintain and fix automobiles the right way. I love watching these.
Morning Dave, I’m an F150 owner, gas engine, of course, but Dave, that is the prettiest truck I believe I have ever seen, thank you for taking the time to talk to that guy and let him ask some questions, even though I’m not a diesel owner,that was very educational on my part, but make sure tell that gentleman that is the most beautiful truck I have ever seen. Thanks for your videos Dave.
Diesels are simple to maintain. Do not idle them for long periods unless it is in cold climates. Diesels are meant to be worked and they run the best when under a load. Unfortunately alot of people buy a diesel and use it for odd stuff and the odd haul etc. They are used for commuting mostly which is not what a diesel is meant for. The more a diesel idles the more regenerations it does because fuel is not being burned fully at idle. The more regens a truck does the quicker your DPF filter system will need to be replaced or have issues. When doing services make sure to use the manufacturer brand of filters or WIX. The reason i mention WIX is most manufacturers filters are made by WIX. Never had a issue using them and the micron rating is normally better than manufacturers. I am not a mechanic but i have worked in the field for years with trucks and heavy equipment. Talked to all kinds of mechanics and seen engines taken apart and seen what the failures were. Do the proper service intervals, make sure the fuel filters are done everytime, never run a tank empty, always keep the half to full. If you live in a area where you can delete the EGR and DPF then do it because that is 90% of these newer diesels problems. Also do not put a stupid tune on get a regular tune.
@mattwpolo1990 a regular tune? Pretty simple one that isn't offroad and has the diesel burning clean instead of rolling coal, didn't think I would have to explain what a regular tune was
Every thing you say is true. You missed one bid thing unless you need the power and your towing something all the time by a gas engine truck. We have some small trucks in the fleet. The ones that do light duty work are gas powered. The ones we work hard are diesels if you don’t work the new diesel pick up trucks hard, they are just a pile of trouble. Too much unburnt fuel in the emission system. The engines run too cold. The list of problems goes on. Great channel Dave
My old 2002 V10 F250 was an excellent work truck. Spent it's life just above the registered GVW before putting any cargo in the bed. Gas mileage didn't fluctuate much with a load. No problems with hills while towing a 10k lb trailer. Other than routine maintenance she was trouble free for 270k, oil changes, 10 spark plugs and 10 coils, 1 coolant hose, 1 starter, 1 alternator were the only engine components replaced. Only done in by salt corrosion she rotted away. Hopefully the new Godzilla engines are comparable. Though I have my doubts on the longevity.
I went from diesel to a gas I bought a new 2024 chevy 3500 with 6.6l gas. Before that I own a few dodges diesels still have my old 12v cummins. I did not want to deal with def fuild. My gas truck works great last thing I towed I was gross out at 25420lbs it did well. My old 12v cummins is 75 miles away from 500000miles
I have a 2017 powerstroke. Deleted it with 1000 miles on it 3 weeks after I bought it. I never regret a thing. The part were you talk about egr, that is the most destructive to these trucks. To rebreath dirty sooty air and recycle it is where most of the carbon build up occurs. My delete is going on 6 years and although I personally wrecked my transmission by being an idiot with all the power the power plant is healthy as ever and runs extremely efficiently.
@@bigmurph1447hell yeah bro! I'm fixing to hit 407,000 in my 2001 24 valve...absolutely love that truck, wouldn't trade it in for one of these new vehicles...EVER lol
One thing I do is try to never interrupt the regen cycle. I have a gauge that tells me when my truck is in regen mode. Once it starts I will bypass my destination and keep driving till it completes its regen. Keeps the temps up. It been 300,000 and never been in the shop for any emissions issues. Not sure if this is why but it works for me.
Been a mechanic for about 6 year's now finished my first full engine rebuild today. Watching daves channel has helped me improve so much. So thankful for the content you provide.
My work just bought me a new F 350 SXT to haul our stuff around the country with. I'm DEF sending them a link to this video. Also, Ive been pulling trailers for about 40 years, Ive never had a truck so adept at doing its job as this 2024 F350. Total beast, and i am NOT a Ford guy. 10 out of 10 would recommend. Great video, thanks for sharing!
The FR3 Stiction additive for the fuel is a good one for diesel engines. Plus Ford diesel trucks have a drain valve on the main fuel pump housing with awater fuel separator, a drain plug for draining off the water, and a inline filter. It's usually underneath the bed along the frame usually, and it has to be drained every 5,000 - 10,000 miles to remove any water in the water/ fuel separator system.
I appreciate you looking at your “fame” as a position of importance to help others. Not as a lot do to boost their ego. It means a lot. Happy Father’s Day Dave.
Thanks for the information, Dave. I do not have a diesel, but my brother just bought a Silverado with the Duramax, and I forwarded the video to him. Great information.
Hi guys from here in the UK, love watching what you get up to but it just blows my mind when I see you working on vehicles, and so many of them, with blown motors and with what we would considered to be extremely low mileage especially the diesels due primarily to a total lack of maintenance (and maybe the odd design floor). 40 years or so ago every large town had an engine shop or two but now they have all but disappeared, I don't even know where my nearest one is and I'm a car guy. Over here we've been running diesels in cars and light trucks for a very long time, its probably a 60/40 split in favour of diesel and I know its a fairly new concept for you guys. When we talk about the longevity of a diesel, once you take the emissions garbage bolted onto them out of the mix, you'll hear most people say they're ok but expect the injectors to crap out on you at around 300.000 miles and often the cost to replace them will be a large percentage of the value of the car so they get scraped. I picked up in this vid that you only really have basic diesel available to you over there, here in the UK we have different types to pick from, cheap and cheerful, which many avoid, from supermarkets then branded fuels from the likes of Shell and BP ect with their regular but also offer a premium diesel, Shell offer a V Power diesel and BP call theirs BP ultimate diesel and both come with an enhanced additives package.
They did not mention that is the new 6.7-HO and a Limited. Beautiful truck. You'll see the 6.7 badges in red on the doors. I have a 2023 Lariat with the HO. I pulled my 3-axle Cyclone from Florida to Arizona in May. It's a beast. Great information. I'm at 12,000 miles and have changed the oil twice. I'm going to do the fuel filters at 15k. I'm going to start running Diesel Kleen in the fuel tank. @DavesAutoCenterCenterville you mentioned coolant, power steering, transmission fluid flushes at 30k. I had not heard of doing those at that short of intervals.
DISCLAIMER: While I am engineer for the Big C, I am commenting in my personal capacity and my comments do not reflect any official statement by Cummins. Dave, please forgive a minor correction: the combustion recipe of modern diesels is specifically calibrated to ensure that no fuel is washing the liners down. Instead, the spray is targeted to stay within the piston bowl or at most slightly split it (e.g a fraction of the spray plume goes above the bowl rim) but only when we can prove that the fuel is burning before it gets near the liner. Part of the reason for high injection pressures today is not just smoke control, but also trying to get the fuel in as fast as possible (in terms of the fewest crank degrees of duration) because once the piston starts descending, you’re losing swirl and heat and pressure- all things that help speed up burn and improve efficiency and reduce PM. You are absolutely correct that fuel is the enemy of oil, because all of the soot and contaminants in the oil ultimately came from the fuel. That’s why it’s important to use good fuel with excellent filters (Nanonet) in the fuel system. I personally recommend oil changes when you’ve burned 200x the pan’s capacity for oil. So if you have a 3 gallon pan, change the oil at 600 gallons of fuel burn. This normalizes for usage in a way that changing by miles cannot.
Hi there... mechanical engineer here. For your gas engine vehicles do you follow a similar X times the oil capacity? Interesting idea I like it!!!!! Btw he mentions Lake and I used Lake's Speediagnostix service which confirmed my suspicion this past winter in my '18 Camry with port/GDI: had a bit of dilution going on. I'm embarrassed I went with generic gas for so long...I started Chevron Techron at Lakes suggestion. 5000 oil OCI in that Camry engine at 38mpg would be ~130x the oil capacity.
@@richcombs4805 I use the 200x ruled thumb for everything that’s in good condition. I’d recommend adjust downward as needed for special cases like known blow by problems or a particularly dirty engine with deposits.
Hello from down under. I used to work for a company here in Melbourne as a service advisor. The company converts Ford F150’s and the Super Duty’s from LHD to RHD. So I know the trucks well. Really enjoy your content. Also a fan of Motor Oil Geek. Keep up the great work!
When I was a diesel mechanic 1975 - 1995 Cummins was adding a sort of fuel restrictor valve for less exhaust smoke on acceleration. But the drivers wanted them bypassed because it lowered acceleration and that was bad when trying to get on the highway. There were no real electronics back them except for the Jake brake. For every engine that manufacturers added to meet EPA regulations I had to try to find a way to bypass because that is what my truck customers wanted. I was certified on Cummins, Mack and Detroit diesel engines but I worked on all of them Cat, Perkins, GM etc. Truck drivers for the most part thought that coal black exhaust meant more power which it does not in most cases. What it does do in every case is wash down the cylinder wall and eventually the engine loses compression and needs overhaul. I have pulled heads off of Cummins 350 that had raw fuel sitting on top of the dome pistons. Many of the older Cummins like NH220 etc of the 50's were still around and were so over fueled that we had to replace head gaskets every few months. Cummins owned the truck market until Detroit Diesel came along with its two stroke engines. Any time quick response at high rpm with no lagging was needed such as fire trucks and generators Detroit reigned supreme. The Detroit 318 with a turbocharger and turbo on top produced good power. It was a much simpler time for mechanics compared to now with electronics controlling the engine.
Dave top discussion, Thanks. Diesels hate short journeys and iddling.. need to work them hard weekly (good motorway journey). As a novice European mechanic here who does my own regular maintenance, I studied Fuel additives, EGR and DPF cleaning(Annual) which i now add to my 5k regular services to my 1.7 Zafira B. Shes running sweet (optimum data according to my scan tool and milage) and all i can say is regular filter and oil changes seem to keep her healthy and reliable for the family..Obviously Pro mechanic does big stuff, but so far so good.. One thing to add, DPF regenerations will not run unless certain parameters are met ie A good run up to temperature and 1/2 tank of diesel( so do not run tank fully down)..and go on a long run regular
I wish I had seen this in 2005 when I bought my now 19 year old Ram 2500 5.9l Cummins. 168k on the clock and she runs like it did new. I replaced all the injectors and fuel lines last November. Everything factory stock. Great video Dave.
I have 2001 F-250 7.3 137k have had it since it had 47k on it I change oil every 5k pretty religiously a d i use diesel additives every other tank I have had no mecanical issues I keep my egts down under 1200 if at all possible Just added a Mishimoto trans cooler as I noticed some higher trans temps that I wasnt comfortable with We will see how that works as I have seen great reviews on that install Dave I understand you are in Utah may I ask where? Im in Ogden area Thanks for the great Video
2004.5 LLY Duramax, Currently at 310k miles on original longblock, with new headgaskets and studs, a nice Dans diesel performance 67mm and had the injectors changed once. Ever since i have owned her every 10k miles it gets a new oil and filters for the whole kit, both fuel filters, oem rec fluid for the Alison, Amsoil for the rest. I added an extra in line filter and i use Optilube fuel treatment every other fill up. I like optilube but Stanadyne makes some great stuff too along with that Archoil, i can feel and hear a difference if i don't use additives. I probably spend a grand a year on just additive for my diesel fuel. Thankfully my truck being older it only had an EGR, and its old enough no one cares it is missing, my truck runs clean though, i paid really good money for custom EFI live tunes made for it. If you're truck has an EGR on it, its only a matter of time before those ports are caked and flowing 30% of the air, force feeding your engine its own dirty air back again is torture for it. Find a gas station you trust with good fuel for your area, one where you can meet the owner, and only get your diesel there. Me personally, its smarter FOR ME it makes more sense to just keep rebuilding my old pre emissions truck for as long as earthly possible to avoid the obvious ticking bombs the EGR/DPF/ECR etc etc clearly are. I do feel for those who must continue to buy into a new post dated over inflated marked up truck.
I have a 2006 dodge with a 5.9 cummins with 586,000 miles and change oil at 3,000 miles and never had any engine problems only trans problems oil changes will make a huge difference for longivity
@@TankSchu I agree. 3k for oil changes is a bit old school thinking. If you're using full synthetic there's no reason to not go at least 5k minimum between oil changes. I think you saying you've never had issues is fine, but you should get your oil tested to see for sure. I'm not giving you grief, my goodness, 500k plus is amazing, but just see if you can maybe extend your oil use further and spend the $$ on so much oil.
Dave top discussion, Thanks. Diesels hate short journeys and iddling.. need to work them hard weekly (good motorway journey). As a novice European mechanic here who does my own regular maintenance, I studied Fuel additives, EGR and DPF cleaning(Annual) which i now add to my 5k regular services to my 1.7 Zafira B. Shes running sweet (optimum data according to my scan tool and milage) and all i can say is regular filter and oil changes seem to keep her healthy and reliable for the family..Obviously Pro mechanic does big stuff, but so far so good..
I’m getting my first truck and I’m debating diesel vs gas. At most I’ll haul a RV trailer/camper that’s not heavier than what the truck is rated for. I won’t tow anything else and it won’t be anywhere near the limit. I don’t need the range or towing capacity so it looks like gas might be the safer way to go.
Always use the best oil you can in a diesel, a modern diesel is under a lot more stress than ones 40 years ago. I have a 2.25 litre N/A LandRover with a diesel built in 1968, 61hp - 114ftlbs mechanical injection with 3 main bearings, runs like a tractor with lots of low gears.
Owning an auto shop for the past 7 years and me not touching diesels at all, this was very helpful!!! Thanks Dave. Been following you for a while and always love your content. Greeting from the City of Chicago!
We went back to gas powered one tons, EGR Diesels just can't handle short trips/idling. Our big trucks are Cummins, Maxxforce and old old DT466E powered. No problems with the DT466E, the Cummins L9, or the Maxxforce 10, the smaller Maxxforce's are a different story, all emission system problems.
Nice to see when old mate asked about is there different quality of ddf and replyed with "I don't know". Respect for being honest without making something up
Dave, You and team do such a fantastic job!! NOT BORING AT ALL!!!! I am in late 50s and use to farm and was in construction. Have had many MANY diesels from pickups, big equipment to OTR Tractors. You were spot on and TAUGHT me (as hardheaded as I can be) a few things, as well as confirmed some things I suspected. Love the machine/engine build aspect as well. We use to race with NHRA and built alot of engines as well, so I know good when I see it. You guys are 1st CLASS!!! Congrats on your YT and business success. There is only 1 problem, You are to far away for me to use you!!!! DARN!!!! God Bless You, Business and Family!!!!!
Couple notes. Engine design and egt probe location have a lot to do with EGT’s an maximum temp will vary depending on the truck. 20+ fords run steel pistons to allow them to run high temps without seeing damaging results. This means there is no singular maximum exhaust gas temp and it will all vary depending on the vehicles year/make/model DEF doesn’t help with soot removal from dpf. Def is a mix of water and urea designed to cause a chemical reaction that lowers NOX caused by high exhaust gas temps with the help of an scr. Diesels also don’t spray the outside of the cylinder walls in a stock configuration unless you have extremely plugged injectors or an extremely hot tune. The injection cycle hits inside the bowl of the piston for optimal combustion and longevity. Side note. Diesel engines that do not have a standalone fuel injector for the exhaust after treatment system will dilute oil more with fuel as a byproduct of injecting more fuel to raise exhaust gas temps to burn soot from the DPF. Other than that great video.
It was good to know what to be watching for. I got a 2006 Dodge sprinter recently with 146k miles on it, and plan on taking the trip out to Utah this fall to see about getting a new monster engine in it
I love this kinda content. I’m 30 years old and a novice at working on cars. I’m trying to learn and understand more and content like this, having an expert explain things to a layman is absolutely perfect content. Please make a video on how to maintain a brand new gas car!!!
You need to open a shop in Utah County.. I was raised around this art ,you remind me of my dad when he had his business back in the 70s thru 2006 ., I loved every minute that I spent with him working on a new project in this industry A solid 10 out of 10...
Icon vehicle dynamics. They've come a long way. They're based in my hometown of Riverside, CA. Drove one of their early demo vehicles. It was a wrangler jeep with a supercharger on it with all kinds of custom goodies. The guy who owned it rode a beech cruiser to get food. Damn thing sucked up gas like crazy.
You obviously cant say this on video, but deleting the egr and DEF systems will make that truck get better mileage, run stronger, and last much longer. If im not mistaken, i believe the manual says fuel filter must be changed every 10k miles. Do NOT miss the recommended interval.
Great informative video. But there are a couple of points I would have liked to have made in your presentation. 1. I really recommend to people that they do their first oil change sometime between 300 and 500 miles to whatever oil you plan to use. This is what will remove whatever dirt and crud that ended up in the engine during manufacturing and assembly. Yes, they all take great care in being clean, but it is that first oil that absorbs whatever is left. Get it out of the engine. (This goes for rebuilds too!) In a diesel, I strongly recommend that they use something like Rotella T6 0W40 or 5W/40. There are others, but this is the one I feel is the best. Your comments about the damage to oil by the fuel are great. 2. Your comments on fuel are about half right. Yes, the way and where diesel fuel comes from are different, but that is because of the base crude is different. The facts are that diesel fuel sold in the USA and Canada as well as in Europe, all meet ASTM D975-21. Some will add an additive package that improves it, but fuel that meets this specification are fine. The big key is to keep moisture out of the fuel. This is where good additives can come in to aid in absorbing it and enabling it to burn through the system. As a person that just finished an around the world trip on a yacht with 2 C-18 CAT's. I put a great Raycor filtering system in the boat. I can attest that fuel we got in some of the other countries was not all that great by what the Rancor's filters out of the fuel, and the water removed. But, I had no fuel issues in any of the engines or generators. Lastly, a huge help on my baby Duramax truck is that I installed a Racor CCV or Catch can. This really helped to clean up the EGR system and even improved the fuel economy a little. Last ting on DEF. It is really best if the vehicle is driven a lot and the DEF in the tank is turned over. But often this isn't the case. There are some DEF treatment fluids you can get that will help keep the uric acid in suspension, and will break up the uric crystals that can form on your DEF tank. This will also prevent the DEF pump and nozzles from becoming plugged. Keep up the good work....
The trick is to keep it running. My injectors made it 610,000 miles, some fuel filter changes well over 30,000 miles, even over 50k. Injectors were still ok so they're spares now. Once in a while I'll do an additive, simply can't afford every tank. I drive this thing a LOT every week, so it doesnt sit for very long. Original CP3 pump now at 752,000 miles.
Nice. Howe's Lubricator seems like it does a good job. I have 4 diesel trucks. Knock on wood- they're running ok thus far. The CP 3 pumps are bulletproof. Just took one out of a wreck. The pump/regulator by itself probably weighs more than an alternator.
@@billwestfield6394 Yes, CP3 is solid, mine is now 752,000 miles... I've used Howes, but mostly power service and 2cycle. I have replaced the FPR once, but it seems to act up depending on fuel temperature. The lube in the fuel does help it out.
@@mikesh8968 not everyone can delete it!! Some states test and shops can't legally delete. If you can do it for yourself great but it doesn't work everywhere logistically
@bigdaddymak1439 The Americans were the first to implement DPF and then shortly after they tightened the regulations for DEF. This was between 07 and 10. The first adblue non commercial vehicles appeared in Europe around 2015.
Not boring. I’ve been driving a Cummins for 20 years and will be changing my maintenance cycles based on what you said. I wished you had shared a diesel additive brand you like.
Not boring at all. If anything it reminds us of how to protect our investment. Trucks are expensive and should be pampered. I don't mean driving easy, I mean doing preventive maintenance. The oil sample is a great way to go. Thanks for another great video.
And for some of us with in-block crankcase filters, change that bad boy every 10,000 miles even though the manufacturer says 20,000 miles is ok. But when your ENG/SYS alarm goes off at 12,000 miles you'll understand why 10,000 miles is it.
Yeah that's what I always did, seems like on road trips if I went any more than 10k miles I would have some trouble with fuel delivery. Since I got the ford 6.7l I have extended it out to every third oil change just because the main filter is so damn large (the square one) and expensive. But 10k is definitely a good number, the high pressure pump coming apart is too damn expensive to be playing around with dirty fuel, especially water.
The newer Ford diesel fuel systems (2017+) have good filtration for the most part. 10k is a bit overkill and pointless unless it’s not being driven much. 15k or once per year is a better interval.
@@CornFed_3 diesel is the least refined fuel it’s very very dirty! I’d rather spend money on good filters and change them often than but high pressure fuel system components.
@@Unbleachd, diesel fuel is perfectly fine from most fuel stations. I’m personally a fan of diesel fuel additives to aid in boosting cetene levels (helps burn it off more comfortably) and adds lubricity since diesel fuel is extremely dry. And since the filters are rated for 15k+, there is literally no argument to change them more frequently other than you use bad fuel or like wasting money.
Diesel Emissions Systems we have today. The DES currently comprises several components including the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR), Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC), Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR), and of course, the DPF.
All ridiculous EPA mandated crap that accomplishes nothing except increase cost, shorten the life of the vehicle, and enrich the politicians thanks to tree hugging idiot lobbyists.
Huge great reminders have a 6.0 I religiously maintain. Oil changes every 3500-5000 full synthetic fuel filter changes every other oil change runs better than when I bought it. Not to mention arch oil fuel and oil additives or hot shot secret additives both work very well.
@@briandrawdy725, you clearly don’t know anything about heavy diesel transmissions then. I’ve snapped everything from an Allison 1000 up to their 4500 series transmissions. They aren’t anything special guy. Your comment proves how unintelligent you really are.
Sounds like the guy has only run a tank of fuel through the truck. I’d suggest before doing oil analysis at 5k miles, have him change his oil at 500 miles since it’s gonna be full of metal particles from initial break in. Then 1000 miles, then 2500 miles and finally 5k miles. Proper break in is paramount to a bright future for your motor as break in is the most sensitive your internal components will be.
I can guarantee 80% of people complaining about their DEF system do these things.. idle for a long time, use the cheap stuff, take many short trips, floors the pedal a lot, don’t use fuel additives, and don’t let the truck cool down after coming off highway. Both my 2021 Cummins are close to 200k miles with not a single issue with the def or fuel pump.
These trucks need to be able to idle for extended periods, take shorts trips handle being floored. What do you do, pull little trailers on highway? Ever use a new truck as a plow truck? Like real northern climate plow truck? Or fueling equipment in mud? Or driving from one side of a job site to another? Def is ok for you in your world but the work that keeps life possible as you know it does not coincide with def or particulate filters or egr valves.
Back in 06 I read articles about the up coming emission regulation. So I bought a new 06 Ram with the 5.9 Cummins to avoid all the problems with the new regulations. Still have that truck and tow a 5th wheel RV. Never had a problem because I do all those tips you gave your friend. He showed you some diesel additives, that is what I use also. I also added a better fuel filtration system on the truck and use a treatment to deal with the microbe problems with the bio fuel added the the diesel. Back in 2012 when they started to add 5% bio-fuel to the diesel, my 98 12v cummins fuel filter plugged up because of the microbes growth on the filter. Still have the 98 12v and no issues for 27 years.
Excellent insite. And after listening to this my next F series will be gas. I just don’t have the time to worry about all the ins and outs of this engine or expense. Anyone agree?
The spectro oil analysis Program ( SOAP), is an excellent way to know the conditions of your oil and internal engine moving parts. As a retired aircraft mechanic we used it to test acceptable conditions of various metal wear and fuel contamination including environmental dirt, silicone dust particles in parts per million. Excellent advice Dave.
I been driving trucks since I was 10 years old Now I’m in my 40s I’m looking forward to buy my first diesel truck. And this video man help me understand a lot more thanks Dave. Gracias 🙏🏼
@@jasoneardley2202did you see Dave's short about the government air force truck that came from factory deleted? Talk about screwed up, rules for thee not for us
@@lewisbolman7862funny that you mentioned that about the military diesels. Deployed military vehicles, from trucks to tanks, all have to use the same fuel in the name of simplifying logistics; since the late 1970s, for the U.S. Army, that's been JP-8, the same jet fuel used in Air Force fighters and bombers. As such, Ford has made its deployable Rangers with the 2.0-liter Panther diesel engine jet-fuel compatible by adding a non-catalytic muffler system, blocking the EGR valve, and re-mapping the ECU.
Dave Thank you! I plan to buy a newer Ford 7.3 and you helped me prepare how to maintain my dream truck! You may consider a short video program you can sell online for beginners like myself on topics based on your experience on what to look for on buying a used ford truck based on the years and or type of motor, how to maintain Ford truck based on the years and other separate videos on topics on what parts to upgrade and brand parts that are reliable. I’m sure many people would buy your online programs! Keep up the videos!
My Dad had his 2013 model Holden (Chevrolet) Colorado RG which is fitted with the 2.8 litre turbocharged Diesel Duramax engine dyno tuned after my brother replaced the standard exhaust system with a 3 inch diameter & mandrel bent exhaust system,a larger intercooler & the tuner also did a combustion chamber decoke by removing the cylinder head & cleaning that & the piston crowns up as well as the Inlet & exhaust ports, they also did an EGR valve delete prior to retuning it. The end result was a power increase from 147 flywheel kilowatts to 198 flywheel kilowatts & it also puts out 500 Newton metres of torque now. I noticed that it has a lot more grunt than it used to have !
Dave, if you read this, I want to maybe have a little discussion with you and get your thoughts because there were a couple things that you mentioned that I disagree with. But, before you potentially respond, I want you to understand that I really like your channel and even though I've been in the industry for going on about 28 to 29 years almost now, I am fully aware that you probably have way more knowledge than me based on the fact that you do a lot of engine rebuilds and you have all the equipment you do and have probably worked on quite a few more vehicles than I have over the decades. So, that being said or typed, I have a lot of respect for what you do and I think that you know your shit to put it bluntly. However....... The first one being when he was talking to you about the fuel and the DEF fluid when you were standing by the diesel fuel door and you said the number one thing, I completely disagree that the number one thing that you pointed out. The NUMBER 1 THING you should have told him is to never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever put the DEF fluid in the wrong hole and accidentally put it in the diesel fuel fill hole or spout. That is the number one thing that I hear people do that is unfortunately the demise of their truck. I don't know how many stories I have heard from clients or even read online or in forums or groups or watched videos of people that have unfortunately just not paid attention for whatever stupid reason and the next thing you know, they accidentally put the DEF fluid in the diesel hole and they now have about $15,000 worth of repairs on their truck. The next thing that I disagree with you on is that I think they should probably be changing their fuel filters about every 10,000 miles and in some cases maybe every 5,000 miles if it's a little bit older truck. I'm actually a little bit surprised that you suggested going up to 15,000 miles and even though that might be the case in somebody's situation where they are only driving highway miles, I don't think that's a good suggestion considering how much these newer vehicles cost for repairs. I understand that these newer trucks unfortunately have more expensive fuel filters and I believe they cost anywhere from about $70 to $100 and sometimes up to $140 if it's a Dodge diesel so I understand that this gets to be expensive if you're doing this every 5,000 miles or every 10,000 miles. The older diesel pickups had fuel filters that were anywhere from $10 to $30 and if you found them online and got a kit, you might even save a little bit more money. So, if your fuel filter is roughly $20 to $30, then you should just change it right along with your oil filter change interval which should be around 5,000 miles to 7000 miles or maybe at the most 10,000 miles if you are driving ONLY Highway miles. As you know Dave, for someone that uses their truck as a work truck such as somebody that's hauling loads with it everyday like a hot shot type of truck or somebody that's hauling livestock like a farmer would do or doing some sort of work with it day in and day out, it's considered "Severe Duty" and they should be changing their oil probably every 5,000 miles if not every 4,000 miles. As such, they should just be changing their fuel filter right along with that just to make sure that they are having as clean of fuel go into the engine as possible. At the very least, they can maybe change the fuel filter every other oil change if they are doing oil changes at about 5,000 mile intervals. I know that you mentioned around 3500 miles with a full synthetic but honestly, I think that's going to be a bit overkill even for a truck that's considered severe Duty in many cases. For "most" diesel pickup owners, 5000 miles is probably plenty and I could even see some severe Duty situations going up to 6000 miles or 7,000 miles and possibly even further with oil analysis like you mentioned.
Serious question here. How does a dirty fuel filter lead to dirty fuel. I can see it increasing fluid pressure drop across the filter but I don't understand why it would mean less clean fuel, unless it is so clogged that it starts to bypass. The guy in this video appears to have a new HO 6.7 which has the CP4 fuel pump. I have one (an F-450) on order now. They're known to be sensitive and people tell you to change the fuel filter frequently, but I'm struggling to understand how a clean filter leads to cleaner fuel. I also see recommendations for lubricity additive such as Archoil to help preserve this pump because it was designed for European fuel instead of American fuel which, apparently, is less lubricious. I'm curious your thoughts on that. And finally, I currently by bulk Diesel fuel and keep it on the property here in a tank with a pump and a filter for my trucks (2 of them, 7.3 PSD) and other equipment (four implements and a generator). Do you think it would be okay to use this on a new Ford 6.7 or is fuel station diesel safer?
@@NateAIM I don't know if you're question is directed at me but I'll answer as if it was. Also, I don't know if you're trying to play coy or troll me here or whoever you're question was intended towards however, I guess I'll play along if you are trolling. If not, then I guess your intentions are legitimate and that's that. So, here are my thoughts. As far as a filter "cleaning" the fuel anymore than it already has been coming out of the nozzle from a fuel fill up station, I guess obviously it can't be any more clean than that so it's not about it being "more clean" and it's more about it being less "dirty". So, I guess if you want to get technical or get into semantics, I suppose the filter is more about it "filtering" as the name suggests and trying to let less small dirty particles or debris pass through it which in turn could potentially cause an issue down the line. So, it's more about NOT allowing as many small particles of debris get through which can obviously cause corrosion and build up but potentially even worse, it could cause failure over time which is what people do not want to have happen obviously. As far as the fuel injection pump being designed for European diesel engines, I don't have that info. I also don't know if the fuel in the USA is any different than in Europe although I have read things about this claim over the years. If there is a difference, I'm not sure what it is other than as you mentioned with your comment which is allegedly, the diesel fuel in Europe or overseas has better chemical (or biological) properties to it which allows it to have more lubricity which also helps prolong the life of the components of which it will touch or pass through such as the injectors and the fuel lines. I would assume also the internal parts of the engine such as the combustion chamber and so on. As far as you purchasing diesel fuel in bulk and being able to use it in your vehicles, well, that depends on how you intend to use your vehicles or where you intend to operate them. Roughly 3 decades ago almost, I was told that off-road diesel fuel that you would typically buy in bulk for people like farmers was not the same diesel as you would buy at the pumps because it wasn't taxed and that's why it was less expensive and also had a red dye that was coloring the off-road diesel fuel. Also, years ago I was told that the off-road diesel was a "dryer" fuel. However, after doing research more recently, I have come to the conclusion that that particular claim (that the off road diesel fuel was more "dry") was probably never true or at least if it was, it has changed over the last few decades. Based on the research I have done, the off-road diesel fuel and the diesel fuel you would purchase at a typical fuel station are the same and the only difference is they are colored differently and the off-road diesel has a red dye to it and obviously the diesel you get at the pumps has a greenish tint to it. To my knowledge, the lubricity of either diesel fuel is the same. But, don't take my word for it and go and do your own research to make your own decision. I'm just going off of many various sites I read over the years since this has been a topic of debate on various forms over the years. As far as being allowed to use the diesel fuel in your vehicles, well, as long as you are not using those vehicles on a state or federal or city street or highway or interstate, I would assume that you could use that fuel and not have any problems. At least not legally speaking or with the EPA. However, the problem arises when you start to put that fuel in your tank and then you decide to drive on a street or a highway or an interstate or some other government regulated roadway. At that point, the diesel fuel in your pickup is supposed to be taxed and as a result, if you get caught using that off-road diesel fuel that you would typically buy in bulk that has a red dye to it, you could get caught with some sort of infractions and having to pay a hefty fine from what I am told. I have fortunately never had to worry about that issue so I can't speak from personal experience and I am only going off of what people have stated or what the laws are regarding using off-road fuel compared to diesel fuel you would purchase at a typical fuel station. If you want to live on the wild side and run that stuff, by all means go ahead but the little bit of savings you're going to have in not having to pay the taxes or what have you is probably not worth it if you consider the hefty fine and potential jail time you could face if you get pulled over and caught. That's your call obviously. I don't care as it doesn't affect me. But, one other thing to check before you start putting off-road diesel fuel in your vehicles is to find out if it actually voids your warranty if you do have a warranty on your vehicles. Keep in mind that these manufacturers will try to find any excuse that they can to try to get out of having to pay for warranty service so you better know that if you ever have an issue with your injectors or your fuel system, they're going to take a sample and determine whether or not you have proper diesel fuel in your tank or running through your system and if you have off-road diesel in your system while there is a failure, they could potentially try to claim that was the reason why there was a failure. I don't know and that's why I said to talk to whoever is in charge of your warranty so in your case, go and talk to your Ford dealer to make sure that you get it in writing that it will be covered because you know damn well just talking to a service writer is not going to cover your butt if you have an issue down the road. Furthermore, I would probably rather get confirmation from a corporate person directly from Ford because just going to a dealer isn't going to cover your butt either if you try to make a claim I need to have $12,000 to almost $15,000 worth of repairs done to your fuel system all because you used off-road Fuel and they are trying to say that they are not going to cover it. You need to cover your butt here. But, if you have vehicles that are out of warranty, then obviously this doesn't matter. Do whatever you want. Again, I was going to do your own research to determine whether off-road fuel is different as far as the lubricity properties or other properties or not and whether it's just a different color and that is it. As far as what lubricants or additives you should use to try to help preserve the injection pump or prolong the life of it, I have not personally used Arch oil as I am a fan of Hot Shots secret however, I will admit that I have actually watched a video or two that has debunked whether or not Hot Shots secret is worth a crap or ANY additive for that matter. I know that Arch oil has gotten more popular since some people watch the TH-cam channel called Powerstroke help and unfortunately the owner of the channel passed away this past year but he always promoted it I think even back as far as when the 7.3 L Powerstroke came out or the 6.0 power strokes. I can't remember for sure but I know it's been a while now that he promoted it. Not only him but also I believe Powerstroke Tech with A-Rod also promotes it as well and he is a well-known automotive tech with a TH-cam channel that focuses mainly with the Powerstrokes and usually more of the newer ones such as the 6.7. I'm not sure which video it was that I watched but I do watch various oil videos whether it be from Project Farm or Lake Speed (that might not be the name of his channel so go and look up his name and you can find some videos from him) and Lake Speed is now becoming known as probably the oil "guru" because of his expertise with oil and the engineering or physics of it and he does a lot of great videos so you would want to watch him. Again, I'm not exactly sure which one it was but I believe there was one or two that I watched that said that Hot Shots secret doesn't really do much but I used it when I was driving more of the diesel pickups when I had a couple 6.0 powerstrokes and I didn't have any issues with the fuel so my experience was positive. And to be honest, I know and one of the Diesels that I was driving more regularly that I had the fuel pressure dropped to pretty much zero when it was really cold out and the diesel I got from one of the stations must have been bad diesel or I got the wrong kind and I drove it more than a few hundred miles with having extremely low fuel pressure and once I got better diesel, it went right back up to where I needed to be and I never had any issues with the injectors. I actually unfortunately did this to that pickup a number of times where I was running almost zero fuel pressure and I never had issues with the injectors whether it be with its starting or power or anything of that nature. I did have a couple starting issues but that was electrical related and nothing to do with the injectors. I realize I am a very small sample size compared to companies with many vehicles or people with multiple vehicles in general so you take it for whatever you want. I know that a lot of people stand by the Hot Shots secret brand of additives and they also like their oil I believe. But, I am sure that Arch oil is pretty good as well. They are both probably pretty good.
@@NateAIM I would highly suggest to look into getting the injection pump disaster prevention kit and install it on your 6.7. Although it might actually prevent a disaster from happening, I believe it does help reroute where the debris might end up which could save you a lot of money overall. I would rather have this even if I had a brand new truck and avoided the warranty assuming that it was going to have the truck for 300,000 Mi or more. I don't want to have all that little bit of debris getting past the injection pump and into the injectors and then potentially even extremely small particles getting past the injector tips and into the combustion chamber over the time that I had my vehicle. I would rather spend the money and void my warranty then not have it on and have issues down the road.
@@NateAIMToyota got rid of fuel filters a few years back. Bad Idea! I run a 2001 Cummins dodge. Second truck I owned. I found the addition of a FASS or Air dog system critical. First of all, my filters are easy to change and I filter to 2 microns. I was using a 20 micron wiz prior to the current air dig install. Second, these FASS systems continuously filter and condition fuel. They remove water and entrained air. Third, I monitor fuel pressure and can see when I get a drop, that’s its time to change filters. In many parts of the US, fueling stations are clean and pristine. The storage tanks are new and under ground. Great fuel to start with. In parts of Wyoming, tanks are decades old above ground tanks. So you get water condensation, rust particles and sometimes a biological slime in the fuel. I am not a biologist but I understand it’s some kind of algae. So these trips can shorten a fuel filter swap out. Check your fuel pressure gauge! My current engine has a VP44 pump. Stay on top of things and you’re OK. Also, living in the cold, I got used to spiking fuel with Howells diesel treat. Used to mix off road #1 with #2 in the cold to keep fuel from gelling up. But Howells improve lubricity which has been lacking since the mandate of using ultra low sulfur in about 2007.
I'm a 62 year old woman. I own 2 diesel trucks one is an F-250 Ford the other is a 2500 Cummins. I love the channel. I have learned so much it scares me to drive them because the expense of nowadays lol. This video was awesome thank you Dave ❣️⚔️🧡
Dave install catch cans for your custom. The EGR gets clogged with oil soot sticks. This is the main problem. Learn about fuel catalyst which burns suit at a lower temperature. It is an additive such as redline oil 85+ or better yet Pittsburgh power max mileage. Install water injection snow performance. Lowers EGT and totally cleans the intake system makes it look brand new.
Before you even started talking about boats I was going to say a lot of older Detroit’s on sport fishing boats put out so much soot you can stand on the back deck while underway. Down south where it’s extremely hot all year around those sport fishing boats that sit will grow algae in the fuel tank. Fuel polishing ain’t no joke. I bought a 50 foot sport fishing boat in Miami and not knowing about fuel polishing or algae growing in the tank the boat sat in 85 degree temp for 4 months without being ran and I jumped on and left for the Bahamas for a month. I took a crash course in Detroit 12v92 engines and the fuel system went thru 12 primary filters or racor as they are called in a month and a hand full of secondary filter and eventually the floor had to cut up because the feed from the main tank to the port engine was 85% blocked so the whole trip I had to run one engine on my primary tank and one on the aux tank
Hey Dave - that was a good laugh - we have good quality diesel here in SJU Puerto Rico! But yes, we do polish our tanks yearly due to the fact that we travel to the Dominican Republic and the BVIs frequently. We have Man 1300s on our Viking and we need to take great care of the fuel system. Greetings from Puerto Rico
The proper maintenance of your truck is the 2nd hardest part of owning a diesel. The hardest part is finding a trustworthy, knowledgeable, reliable mechanic like Dave and his team. I wish there was a no-doubt way to find a local mechanic that had ethical, no shortcut mechanics to take my diesel to. Because these modern diesel engines are so sensitive to even the smallest improper maintenance misstep having a shop that can ensure zero mistakes is critical.
That truck has the 10 speed transmission and does not have a manual OD switch to turn it off. No need for one - the transmission is very good and shifts to the appropriate gear on its own.
Dave, this was NOT boring. More videos like these please.
Appreciate the feedback 👍
@@DavesAutoCenterCenterville do you think the fuel filter systems on these trucks are capable of protecting these expensive engines? I don't. The OEM filters are a joke. I'm very familiar with boat applications and something like a Fleetguard FF5000 - FS1000 - FF5776 will actually protect the injection system. a system like that is actually cheap by any measure. Even the VW TDI crowd has a kit to fit a CATERPILLAR fuel filter to protect the injection system.
@@DavesAutoCenterCenterville Dave, new to following you. Do you ever come across used trucks for sale that you have the chance to sell? I would fly out to Utah to pick it up, love Utah! I have the exact same questions as this gentleman, loved this video!
Seconded!
@@zaffo757got a Cat filter on My ALH. 450,000 miles.
I love this channel! I'm 17 years old and have been working at my grandfather's shop since 13. I plan on owning a shop one day.
Great start. Great goal.
I wish you many successes on that. The business management side of owning my own shop is not something I desire to deal with. I just work on my buddies cars. They give me petty cash for it.
👍
This country certainly needs more honest, fanatically precise, talented young mechanics coming into this field. Congratulations and good luck.
Wish you all the success possible
Ford Senior Master Tech here and this is my recommendations. 1st and foremost read your owners manual and the scheduled maintance section. Ford uses what is called an IOLM for oil changes which stands for intelligent oil life monitor. The IOLM monitors many things to include engine load, vehicle speeds, temperature, regenerations events, etc to calculate when an oil change is due. Most of the time it is right around 7500 miles on a 6.7 diesel. I prefer factory filters since i have seen all the issues with cheap aftermarket filters. Highly recommend trans, diff, t-case svc every 60k unless severe use like constant towing then reduce to 30k. Fuel filters every 15k. All air filters every 20k unless real dusty conditions then drop to 10k-15k. Ford makes an excellent fuel additive that is designed to work with your fuel system and boost cetane and lubricity. I use it in my 6.0 diesel and buy it by the gallon to refill the single shot bottle which treats 35 gallons diesel, much cheaper that way. 1 gallon PM-22-GAL, single shot PM-22-ASU.
DEF fluid is 32.5% urea and i have not seen any real issues with different brands. Generally you will fill the DEF tank at every oil change. When the system goes into regen it is very important to complete the regen before shutting off the engine. Incomplete regens cause more issues than you can imagine. Diesel fuel is a crap shoot on quality and actual cetane rating. Here in Oregon it is crap compared to what is found in other states. Ford designs their engines off a cetane rating of 44 and here if you find 40 cetane your lucky. Just like gas there is summer and winter blends of diesel.
Thanks for your input Sir !!! MUCH appreciated !!!
I always appreciate hearing from people who know their stuff - thank you for that!
Great info! Any tips for starting a 6.7 (2019 F350) that’s been sitting for a few years. It’s stored in Boise Idaho (indoors) so it’s pretty dry but can get cold in the winter / hot in the summer.
7500 oil change intervals!!! Yes you are DEFINITELY a master technician. That advice is why these diesels are going bad. 3k mile oil changes especially a diesel!
@@russelbrown6275 Do you use a laboratory oil analysis to check the health of your oil after 3k miles?
Props to this guy the who is willing to say that he doesn’t know about his truck and is willing to listen learn and ask good questions
Never to old to expand your knowledge
Keep learning
I’ve never been afraid to admit I’m stupid…..
Boring? Heck listened to the whole thing it was so good. Thanks for taking the time to help folks like me keep our work trucks rolling!
You watch videos without bees in them to? Lol
Boring? I watched it twice!
@@86offroad yes! If it isn't Beekeeping then I am probably watching his videos. Trying to keep this F-350 in peak condition.
Glad you enjoyed it
I do 5k oil changes . Oil is much cheaper than a new motor. 20k on coolant because it is also pretty cheap. I do brake fluid at 30k , trans at 30k and diffs at 30k. Just installed the S&S fuel pump so also put a new thermostate and a new drive belt. My secondary radiator does have a very small leak on the plastic corner, will do this soon. Great video and info.
Not a mechanic, but bought a2002 F-350 w/7.3L new, an old timer mechanic told me years ago, change your filters regularly, use marvel mystery oil in your fuel and oil. The truck just rolled 418,000 mi. Still drive her every day!! Good luck with your new truck. Dave, another gem, thanks for doing these vids and sharing your knowledge, it is much appreciated. 👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸
Don't ever get rid of her, unless you plan on getting a 99-01.5 for them rods.
I have a 2000 F-350 with 180K on it, had it for 21 years we use it to snowbird to Florida from Washington St for the last 5 years pulling a 30 foot travel trailer gets 10 to 11 mpg
That's an International motor. Solid
Great engine sir. 6.7 is on a different level. Especially with maintenance
7.3 was bulletproof. It was the last great diesel engine ever installed a pickup truck.
i just traded my 2014 F250. At 76, I am no longer in need of a diesel. However, it looked and drove like a brand new truck after just over 100k miles. I changed the oil, fuel filters and trans fluid on schedule and used Arch Oil products religiously. Never had injector problems or EGR issues. Regens were so infrequent that it was a big deal to see one. I also did not idle it for anything other than a traffic light and minimized short trips because diesels like to get warmed up and run - not stop and go or just to the corner and back. I listened to Bill Hewitt videos - did not know about you then. Loved the truck and hated to downsize to a Tacoma but it was time. No more RVs for me - had 5. I literally put more miles on my golf cart now in my retirement community than I do on my truck. Keep up the good work, you are a great source of how to maintain and fix automobiles the right way. I love watching these.
Rip Bill Hewitt
Tacoma’s rule! I’m on my 3rd Tacoma, a 2024. It’s WAY better than my previous 3rd Gen truck.
Morning Dave, I’m an F150 owner, gas engine, of course, but Dave, that is the prettiest truck I believe I have ever seen, thank you for taking the time to talk to that guy and let him ask some questions, even though I’m not a diesel owner,that was very educational on my part, but make sure tell that gentleman that is the most beautiful truck I have ever seen. Thanks for your videos Dave.
Thanks 👍
@@DavesAutoCenterCenterville hi dave im looking at a 2024 ford f350 single cab with the 7.3 godzilla what do you think of that motor??
Diesels are simple to maintain. Do not idle them for long periods unless it is in cold climates. Diesels are meant to be worked and they run the best when under a load. Unfortunately alot of people buy a diesel and use it for odd stuff and the odd haul etc. They are used for commuting mostly which is not what a diesel is meant for. The more a diesel idles the more regenerations it does because fuel is not being burned fully at idle. The more regens a truck does the quicker your DPF filter system will need to be replaced or have issues. When doing services make sure to use the manufacturer brand of filters or WIX. The reason i mention WIX is most manufacturers filters are made by WIX. Never had a issue using them and the micron rating is normally better than manufacturers. I am not a mechanic but i have worked in the field for years with trucks and heavy equipment. Talked to all kinds of mechanics and seen engines taken apart and seen what the failures were. Do the proper service intervals, make sure the fuel filters are done everytime, never run a tank empty, always keep the half to full. If you live in a area where you can delete the EGR and DPF then do it because that is 90% of these newer diesels problems. Also do not put a stupid tune on get a regular tune.
Well said, the BEST thing you can do to your 6.7 Powerstroke is delete it!!
Easy tune and some deletes yeah
Keep your crankcase breather, air and fuel filters clean. And your oil fresh. And your likely to not have a problem
What is a regular tune?
@mattwpolo1990 a regular tune? Pretty simple one that isn't offroad and has the diesel burning clean instead of rolling coal, didn't think I would have to explain what a regular tune was
Every thing you say is true. You missed one bid thing unless you need the power and your towing something all the time by a gas engine truck. We have some small trucks in the fleet. The ones that do light duty work are gas powered. The ones we work hard are diesels if you don’t work the new diesel pick up trucks hard, they are just a pile of trouble. Too much unburnt fuel in the emission system. The engines run too cold. The list of problems goes on.
Great channel Dave
My old 2002 V10 F250 was an excellent work truck. Spent it's life just above the registered GVW before putting any cargo in the bed. Gas mileage didn't fluctuate much with a load. No problems with hills while towing a 10k lb trailer. Other than routine maintenance she was trouble free for 270k, oil changes, 10 spark plugs and 10 coils, 1 coolant hose, 1 starter, 1 alternator were the only engine components replaced. Only done in by salt corrosion she rotted away.
Hopefully the new Godzilla engines are comparable. Though I have my doubts on the longevity.
I went from diesel to a gas I bought a new 2024 chevy 3500 with 6.6l gas. Before that I own a few dodges diesels still have my old 12v cummins. I did not want to deal with def fuild. My gas truck works great last thing I towed I was gross out at 25420lbs it did well.
My old 12v cummins is 75 miles away from 500000miles
I have a 2017 powerstroke. Deleted it with 1000 miles on it 3 weeks after I bought it. I never regret a thing. The part were you talk about egr, that is the most destructive to these trucks. To rebreath dirty sooty air and recycle it is where most of the carbon build up occurs. My delete is going on 6 years and although I personally wrecked my transmission by being an idiot with all the power the power plant is healthy as ever and runs extremely efficiently.
@@Zorrow45 That may be ok for non commercial trucks but there no Deleats for us there work truck and must pass inspection every year. Unfortunately.
@@bigmurph1447hell yeah bro! I'm fixing to hit 407,000 in my 2001 24 valve...absolutely love that truck, wouldn't trade it in for one of these new vehicles...EVER lol
I love how down to earth, objective and informative you are, sir. Another great video, thank you
So nice of you
One thing I do is try to never interrupt the regen cycle. I have a gauge that tells me when my truck is in regen mode. Once it starts I will bypass my destination and keep driving till it completes its regen. Keeps the temps up. It been 300,000 and never been in the shop for any emissions issues. Not sure if this is why but it works for me.
Been a mechanic for about 6 year's now finished my first full engine rebuild today. Watching daves channel has helped me improve so much. So thankful for the content you provide.
I'd love to see a collab between Dave and Gale Banks.
That would be wild
@@TransLivesMatterTLM sure
That would be epic!
Banks? Lol. Most of his stuff is snake oil
Gale banks is a fkn badass
Definitely not boring. I love hearing good advice in laymans terms from a trustworthy professional
the only thing really to add to that would be idling for a little bit after towing in order to cool down the turbo.
I learned something new. NOT BORING AT ALL. Wish more mechanics were like you, Dave. Thanks.
2000 -250 7.3. Changed the oil every 3000 miles. 385,000 still runs great. Had my first engine issue. Thermostat needed replacing 😊
Same. I have 345,000 on mine. My water pump died. Only problem.
Nice work!
They don't make 'em like they used to!!!
I took really good care of my 7.3L. Cooling jet died and it's getting a new motor at only 140K miles....
My work just bought me a new F 350 SXT to haul our stuff around the country with. I'm DEF sending them a link to this video. Also, Ive been pulling trailers for about 40 years, Ive never had a truck so adept at doing its job as this 2024 F350. Total beast, and i am NOT a Ford guy. 10 out of 10 would recommend. Great video, thanks for sharing!
The FR3 Stiction additive for the fuel is a good one for diesel engines. Plus Ford diesel trucks have a drain valve on the main fuel pump housing with awater fuel separator, a drain plug for draining off the water, and a inline filter. It's usually underneath the bed along the frame usually, and it has to be drained every 5,000 - 10,000 miles to remove any water in the water/ fuel separator system.
Ford isn’t the only ones that can drain from the fuel/water separator. And if it’s being drained often and has water in it, it’s bad fuel.
I appreciate you looking at your “fame” as a position of importance to help others. Not as a lot do to boost their ego. It means a lot. Happy Father’s Day Dave.
Thanks for the information, Dave. I do not have a diesel, but my brother just bought a Silverado with the Duramax, and I forwarded the video to him. Great information.
Hi guys from here in the UK, love watching what you get up to but it just blows my mind when I see you working on vehicles, and so many of them, with blown motors and with what we would considered to be extremely low mileage especially the diesels due primarily to a total lack of maintenance (and maybe the odd design floor). 40 years or so ago every large town had an engine shop or two but now they have all but disappeared, I don't even know where my nearest one is and I'm a car guy. Over here we've been running diesels in cars and light trucks for a very long time, its probably a 60/40 split in favour of diesel and I know its a fairly new concept for you guys. When we talk about the longevity of a diesel, once you take the emissions garbage bolted onto them out of the mix, you'll hear most people say they're ok but expect the injectors to crap out on you at around 300.000 miles and often the cost to replace them will be a large percentage of the value of the car so they get scraped. I picked up in this vid that you only really have basic diesel available to you over there, here in the UK we have different types to pick from, cheap and cheerful, which many avoid, from supermarkets then branded fuels from the likes of Shell and BP ect with their regular but also offer a premium diesel, Shell offer a V Power diesel and BP call theirs BP ultimate diesel and both come with an enhanced additives package.
They did not mention that is the new 6.7-HO and a Limited. Beautiful truck. You'll see the 6.7 badges in red on the doors. I have a 2023 Lariat with the HO. I pulled my 3-axle Cyclone from Florida to Arizona in May. It's a beast. Great information. I'm at 12,000 miles and have changed the oil twice. I'm going to do the fuel filters at 15k. I'm going to start running Diesel Kleen in the fuel tank. @DavesAutoCenterCenterville you mentioned coolant, power steering, transmission fluid flushes at 30k. I had not heard of doing those at that short of intervals.
DISCLAIMER: While I am engineer for the Big C, I am commenting in my personal capacity and my comments do not reflect any official statement by Cummins.
Dave, please forgive a minor correction: the combustion recipe of modern diesels is specifically calibrated to ensure that no fuel is washing the liners down. Instead, the spray is targeted to stay within the piston bowl or at most slightly split it (e.g a fraction of the spray plume goes above the bowl rim) but only when we can prove that the fuel is burning before it gets near the liner. Part of the reason for high injection pressures today is not just smoke control, but also trying to get the fuel in as fast as possible (in terms of the fewest crank degrees of duration) because once the piston starts descending, you’re losing swirl and heat and pressure- all things that help speed up burn and improve efficiency and reduce PM.
You are absolutely correct that fuel is the enemy of oil, because all of the soot and contaminants in the oil ultimately came from the fuel. That’s why it’s important to use good fuel with excellent filters (Nanonet) in the fuel system. I personally recommend oil changes when you’ve burned 200x the pan’s capacity for oil. So if you have a 3 gallon pan, change the oil at 600 gallons of fuel burn. This normalizes for usage in a way that changing by miles cannot.
Hi there... mechanical engineer here. For your gas engine vehicles do you follow a similar X times the oil capacity? Interesting idea I like it!!!!! Btw he mentions Lake and I used Lake's Speediagnostix service which confirmed my suspicion this past winter in my '18 Camry with port/GDI: had a bit of dilution going on. I'm embarrassed I went with generic gas for so long...I started Chevron Techron at Lakes suggestion. 5000 oil OCI in that Camry engine at 38mpg would be ~130x the oil capacity.
@@richcombs4805 I use the 200x ruled thumb for everything that’s in good condition. I’d recommend adjust downward as needed for special cases like known blow by problems or a particularly dirty engine with deposits.
Hello from down under. I used to work for a company here in Melbourne as a service advisor. The company converts Ford F150’s and the Super Duty’s from LHD to RHD. So I know the trucks well. Really enjoy your content. Also a fan of Motor Oil Geek. Keep up the great work!
When I was a diesel mechanic 1975 - 1995 Cummins was adding a sort of fuel restrictor valve for less exhaust smoke on acceleration. But the drivers wanted them bypassed because it lowered acceleration and that was bad when trying to get on the highway. There were no real electronics back them except for the Jake brake. For every engine that manufacturers added to meet EPA regulations I had to try to find a way to bypass because that is what my truck customers wanted. I was certified on Cummins, Mack and Detroit diesel engines but I worked on all of them Cat, Perkins, GM etc. Truck drivers for the most part thought that coal black exhaust meant more power which it does not in most cases. What it does do in every case is wash down the cylinder wall and eventually the engine loses compression and needs overhaul. I have pulled heads off of Cummins 350 that had raw fuel sitting on top of the dome pistons. Many of the older Cummins like NH220 etc of the 50's were still around and were so over fueled that we had to replace head gaskets every few months. Cummins owned the truck market until Detroit Diesel came along with its two stroke engines. Any time quick response at high rpm with no lagging was needed such as fire trucks and generators Detroit reigned supreme. The Detroit 318 with a turbocharger and turbo on top produced good power. It was a much simpler time for mechanics compared to now with electronics controlling the engine.
I love watching a video, that genuinely makes me more intelligent after viewing. Great work Dave!
This man is a walking encyclopedia!!! I love it I am learning as I am listening
Glad to hear it!
Dave top discussion, Thanks. Diesels hate short journeys and iddling.. need to work them hard weekly (good motorway journey). As a novice European mechanic here who does my own regular maintenance, I studied Fuel additives, EGR and DPF cleaning(Annual) which i now add to my 5k regular services to my 1.7 Zafira B. Shes running sweet (optimum data according to my scan tool and milage) and all i can say is regular filter and oil changes seem to keep her healthy and reliable for the family..Obviously Pro mechanic does big stuff, but so far so good.. One thing to add, DPF regenerations will not run unless certain parameters are met ie A good run up to temperature and 1/2 tank of diesel( so do not run tank fully down)..and go on a long run regular
I learned more about a diesel with you than anybody I know,thanks!
I wish I had seen this in 2005 when I bought my now 19 year old Ram 2500 5.9l Cummins. 168k on the clock and she runs like it did new. I replaced all the injectors and fuel lines last November. Everything factory stock. Great video Dave.
As a new diesel truck owner (2002 7.3 f350 91,000 miles ) this was the video I was hoping you would do.
Thanks Dave!
You bet!
I have 2001 F-250 7.3 137k have had it since it had 47k on it I change oil every 5k pretty religiously a d i use diesel additives every other tank I have had no mecanical issues I keep my egts down under 1200 if at all possible Just added a Mishimoto trans cooler as I noticed some higher trans temps that I wasnt comfortable with We will see how that works as I have seen great reviews on that install Dave I understand you are in Utah may I ask where? Im in Ogden area Thanks for the great Video
2004.5 LLY Duramax, Currently at 310k miles on original longblock, with new headgaskets and studs, a nice Dans diesel performance 67mm and had the injectors changed once. Ever since i have owned her every 10k miles it gets a new oil and filters for the whole kit, both fuel filters, oem rec fluid for the Alison, Amsoil for the rest. I added an extra in line filter and i use Optilube fuel treatment every other fill up. I like optilube but Stanadyne makes some great stuff too along with that Archoil, i can feel and hear a difference if i don't use additives.
I probably spend a grand a year on just additive for my diesel fuel.
Thankfully my truck being older it only had an EGR, and its old enough no one cares it is missing, my truck runs clean though, i paid really good money for custom EFI live tunes made for it.
If you're truck has an EGR on it, its only a matter of time before those ports are caked and flowing 30% of the air, force feeding your engine its own dirty air back again is torture for it.
Find a gas station you trust with good fuel for your area, one where you can meet the owner, and only get your diesel there.
Me personally, its smarter FOR ME it makes more sense to just keep rebuilding my old pre emissions truck for as long as earthly possible to avoid the obvious ticking bombs the EGR/DPF/ECR etc etc clearly are. I do feel for those who must continue to buy into a new post dated over inflated marked up truck.
I have a 2006 dodge with a 5.9 cummins with 586,000 miles and change oil at 3,000 miles and never had any engine problems only trans problems oil changes will make a huge difference for longivity
You’re just pissing money away at 3k on a diesel. 🤦♂️ You’re money, though.
@@TankSchu thats why I never had any problems with the engine or the turbo duuh
@@TankSchu I agree. 3k for oil changes is a bit old school thinking. If you're using full synthetic there's no reason to not go at least 5k minimum between oil changes. I think you saying you've never had issues is fine, but you should get your oil tested to see for sure. I'm not giving you grief, my goodness, 500k plus is amazing, but just see if you can maybe extend your oil use further and spend the $$ on so much oil.
@@TankSchu Sorry I was responding to the OP...
That’s about how many miles my ex had on her
Dave top discussion, Thanks. Diesels hate short journeys and iddling.. need to work them hard weekly (good motorway journey). As a novice European mechanic here who does my own regular maintenance, I studied Fuel additives, EGR and DPF cleaning(Annual) which i now add to my 5k regular services to my 1.7 Zafira B. Shes running sweet (optimum data according to my scan tool and milage) and all i can say is regular filter and oil changes seem to keep her healthy and reliable for the family..Obviously Pro mechanic does big stuff, but so far so good..
The main take-away is keep your injectors clean. The same would apply to the direct injection gas engines too. Great video!!
I’m getting my first truck and I’m debating diesel vs gas. At most I’ll haul a RV trailer/camper that’s not heavier than what the truck is rated for. I won’t tow anything else and it won’t be anywhere near the limit. I don’t need the range or towing capacity so it looks like gas might be the safer way to go.
Always use the best oil you can in a diesel, a modern diesel is under a lot more stress than ones 40 years ago. I have a 2.25 litre N/A LandRover with a diesel built in 1968, 61hp - 114ftlbs mechanical injection with 3 main bearings, runs like a tractor with lots of low gears.
I wish they still made them like that
Rotella full synthetic
Owning an auto shop for the past 7 years and me not touching diesels at all, this was very helpful!!! Thanks Dave. Been following you for a while and always love your content. Greeting from the City of Chicago!
Glad to help
We went back to gas powered one tons, EGR Diesels just can't handle short trips/idling. Our big trucks are Cummins, Maxxforce and old old DT466E powered. No problems with the DT466E, the Cummins L9, or the Maxxforce 10, the smaller Maxxforce's are a different story, all emission system problems.
Nice to see when old mate asked about is there different quality of ddf and replyed with "I don't know". Respect for being honest without making something up
I knew Glen way back when he lived in Arkansas. Went to school with his kids, really nice family.
He looks like it. When your are humble enough to say I don't know can you help me help myself please as a grown man it says a lot. That's why I watch.
Glen is the salt of the earth 👍
I thought Glen looked familiar.
Dave,
You and team do such a fantastic job!! NOT BORING AT ALL!!!! I am in late 50s and use to farm and was in construction. Have had many MANY diesels from pickups, big equipment to OTR Tractors. You were spot on and TAUGHT me (as hardheaded as I can be) a few things, as well as confirmed some things I suspected.
Love the machine/engine build aspect as well. We use to race with NHRA and built alot of engines as well, so I know good when I see it. You guys are 1st CLASS!!! Congrats on your YT and business success.
There is only 1 problem, You are to far away for me to use you!!!! DARN!!!!
God Bless You, Business and Family!!!!!
Couple notes.
Engine design and egt probe location have a lot to do with EGT’s an maximum temp will vary depending on the truck. 20+ fords run steel pistons to allow them to run high temps without seeing damaging results. This means there is no singular maximum exhaust gas temp and it will all vary depending on the vehicles year/make/model
DEF doesn’t help with soot removal from dpf. Def is a mix of water and urea designed to cause a chemical reaction that lowers NOX caused by high exhaust gas temps with the help of an scr.
Diesels also don’t spray the outside of the cylinder walls in a stock configuration unless you have extremely plugged injectors or an extremely hot tune. The injection cycle hits inside the bowl of the piston for optimal combustion and longevity.
Side note. Diesel engines that do not have a standalone fuel injector for the exhaust after treatment system will dilute oil more with fuel as a byproduct of injecting more fuel to raise exhaust gas temps to burn soot from the DPF.
Other than that great video.
It was good to know what to be watching for. I got a 2006 Dodge sprinter recently with 146k miles on it, and plan on taking the trip out to Utah this fall to see about getting a new monster engine in it
Man wish this video was around when I bought my first Diesel in 2021. Wealth of information!
I love this kinda content. I’m 30 years old and a novice at working on cars. I’m trying to learn and understand more and content like this, having an expert explain things to a layman is absolutely perfect content. Please make a video on how to maintain a brand new gas car!!!
Great feedback- we will see what we can do in that
I have a 2002 Duramax runs great. I retired change oil regularly fuel filters regularly.
I bought a 2016 Duramax a couple years ago. I change oil and fuel filter every 5000 miles. Maybe excessive but just trying to keep it healthy
You need to open a shop in Utah County.. I was raised around this art ,you remind me of my dad when he had his business back in the 70s thru 2006 ., I loved every minute that I spent with him working on a new project in this industry
A solid 10 out of 10...
Icon vehicle dynamics. They've come a long way. They're based in my hometown of Riverside, CA. Drove one of their early demo vehicles. It was a wrangler jeep with a supercharger on it with all kinds of custom goodies. The guy who owned it rode a beech cruiser to get food. Damn thing sucked up gas like crazy.
I grew up off Pierce and Indiana.
You obviously cant say this on video, but deleting the egr and DEF systems will make that truck get better mileage, run stronger, and last much longer.
If im not mistaken, i believe the manual says fuel filter must be changed every 10k miles. Do NOT miss the recommended interval.
Dave's channel is my favourite car repair channel. 👍
Mine too! 🤣. Thanks for watching 👍
Great informative video. But there are a couple of points I would have liked to have made in your presentation.
1. I really recommend to people that they do their first oil change sometime between 300 and 500 miles to whatever oil you plan to use. This is what will remove whatever dirt and crud that ended up in the engine during manufacturing and assembly. Yes, they all take great care in being clean, but it is that first oil that absorbs whatever is left. Get it out of the engine. (This goes for rebuilds too!) In a diesel, I strongly recommend that they use something like Rotella T6 0W40 or 5W/40. There are others, but this is the one I feel is the best. Your comments about the damage to oil by the fuel are great.
2. Your comments on fuel are about half right. Yes, the way and where diesel fuel comes from are different, but that is because of the base crude is different. The facts are that diesel fuel sold in the USA and Canada as well as in Europe, all meet ASTM D975-21. Some will add an additive package that improves it, but fuel that meets this specification are fine. The big key is to keep moisture out of the fuel. This is where good additives can come in to aid in absorbing it and enabling it to burn through the system.
As a person that just finished an around the world trip on a yacht with 2 C-18 CAT's. I put a great Raycor filtering system in the boat. I can attest that fuel we got in some of the other countries was not all that great by what the Rancor's filters out of the fuel, and the water removed. But, I had no fuel issues in any of the engines or generators.
Lastly, a huge help on my baby Duramax truck is that I installed a Racor CCV or Catch can. This really helped to clean up the EGR system and even improved the fuel economy a little.
Last ting on DEF. It is really best if the vehicle is driven a lot and the DEF in the tank is turned over. But often this isn't the case. There are some DEF treatment fluids you can get that will help keep the uric acid in suspension, and will break up the uric crystals that can form on your DEF tank. This will also prevent the DEF pump and nozzles from becoming plugged.
Keep up the good work....
He’s on the right track with the Archoil!
bill hewitt would be proud.. RIP
Dave my man. I'm a young mobile mecanic in france and I always strugle to explain in simple therme to my client how stuff work. Yhank you !
The trick is to keep it running. My injectors made it 610,000 miles, some fuel filter changes well over 30,000 miles, even over 50k. Injectors were still ok so they're spares now. Once in a while I'll do an additive, simply can't afford every tank. I drive this thing a LOT every week, so it doesnt sit for very long. Original CP3 pump now at 752,000 miles.
Nice. Howe's Lubricator seems like it does a good job. I have 4 diesel trucks. Knock on wood- they're running ok thus far. The CP 3 pumps are bulletproof. Just took one out of a wreck. The pump/regulator by itself probably weighs more than an alternator.
@@billwestfield6394 Yes, CP3 is solid, mine is now 752,000 miles... I've used Howes, but mostly power service and 2cycle. I have replaced the FPR once, but it seems to act up depending on fuel temperature. The lube in the fuel does help it out.
Thanks Dave,been driving diesel’s over 30 yrs,love what you guys do!! I wish that I lived somewhat close to your shop.
Clean air filter. Oil filter. Fuel filters. Regularly.
DEF sucks
Thank the Europeans for DEF
And it only works when the exhaust is hot, not at idle or driving around town
Delete it.....after 6 deletes (all work trucks)
My mpg 25.6 highway 19-18 towing.....all Cummings
@@mikesh8968 not everyone can delete it!! Some states test and shops can't legally delete. If you can do it for yourself great but it doesn't work everywhere logistically
@bigdaddymak1439 The Americans were the first to implement DPF and then shortly after they tightened the regulations for DEF. This was between 07 and 10. The first adblue non commercial vehicles appeared in Europe around 2015.
Not boring. I’ve been driving a Cummins for 20 years and will be changing my maintenance cycles based on what you said. I wished you had shared a diesel additive brand you like.
The equivalent of octane ratings for diesel fuel is a cetane rating, if I remember correctly. 😀
Correct
It's really the opposite. Octane is a measure of how stable gasoline is, cetane is a measure of how easily diesel ignites.
Not boring at all. If anything it reminds us of how to protect our investment. Trucks are expensive and should be pampered. I don't mean driving easy, I mean doing preventive maintenance. The oil sample is a great way to go. Thanks for another great video.
change those diesel fuel filters like clockwork every other oil change or 10,000 miles
And for some of us with in-block crankcase filters, change that bad boy every 10,000 miles even though the manufacturer says 20,000 miles is ok. But when your ENG/SYS alarm goes off at 12,000 miles you'll understand why 10,000 miles is it.
Yeah that's what I always did, seems like on road trips if I went any more than 10k miles I would have some trouble with fuel delivery. Since I got the ford 6.7l I have extended it out to every third oil change just because the main filter is so damn large (the square one) and expensive.
But 10k is definitely a good number, the high pressure pump coming apart is too damn expensive to be playing around with dirty fuel, especially water.
The newer Ford diesel fuel systems (2017+) have good filtration for the most part. 10k is a bit overkill and pointless unless it’s not being driven much. 15k or once per year is a better interval.
@@CornFed_3 diesel is the least refined fuel it’s very very dirty! I’d rather spend money on good filters and change them often than but high pressure fuel system components.
@@Unbleachd, diesel fuel is perfectly fine from most fuel stations. I’m personally a fan of diesel fuel additives to aid in boosting cetene levels (helps burn it off more comfortably) and adds lubricity since diesel fuel is extremely dry. And since the filters are rated for 15k+, there is literally no argument to change them more frequently other than you use bad fuel or like wasting money.
Dave, This was definitely not boring. I don't even own a truck or diesel for that matter buy I really liked your tips and tricks.
Diesel Emissions Systems we have today. The DES currently comprises several components including the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR), Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC), Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR), and of course, the DPF.
All ridiculous EPA mandated crap that accomplishes nothing except increase cost, shorten the life of the vehicle, and enrich the politicians thanks to tree hugging idiot lobbyists.
Huge great reminders have a 6.0 I religiously maintain. Oil changes every 3500-5000 full synthetic fuel filter changes every other oil change runs better than when I bought it. Not to mention arch oil fuel and oil additives or hot shot secret additives both work very well.
Ford chassis, cummins engine, allison transmission, The perfect diesel truck
My thoughts exactly 💥👊🏻💯
'06 Sprinter dually 25mpg highway with a 2" hitch unbeatable when diesel fuel is $3.50/gal
Allison transmissions aren’t anything special at all.
@@CornFed_3sure thing CornPop
@@briandrawdy725, you clearly don’t know anything about heavy diesel transmissions then. I’ve snapped everything from an Allison 1000 up to their 4500 series transmissions. They aren’t anything special guy. Your comment proves how unintelligent you really are.
Sounds like the guy has only run a tank of fuel through the truck. I’d suggest before doing oil analysis at 5k miles, have him change his oil at 500 miles since it’s gonna be full of metal particles from initial break in. Then 1000 miles, then 2500 miles and finally 5k miles. Proper break in is paramount to a bright future for your motor as break in is the most sensitive your internal components will be.
I've learned so much from Dave's videos. The amount of knowledge he has is insane!
I can guarantee 80% of people complaining about their DEF system do these things.. idle for a long time, use the cheap stuff, take many short trips, floors the pedal a lot, don’t use fuel additives, and don’t let the truck cool down after coming off highway. Both my 2021 Cummins are close to 200k miles with not a single issue with the def or fuel pump.
These trucks need to be able to idle for extended periods, take shorts trips handle being floored. What do you do, pull little trailers on highway? Ever use a new truck as a plow truck? Like real northern climate plow truck? Or fueling equipment in mud? Or driving from one side of a job site to another? Def is ok for you in your world but the work that keeps life possible as you know it does not coincide with def or particulate filters or egr valves.
So basically as long as I don’t drive my truck like a truck my truck should be fine? Lol
Back in 06 I read articles about the up coming emission regulation. So I bought a new 06 Ram with the 5.9 Cummins to avoid all the problems with the new regulations. Still have that truck and tow a 5th wheel RV. Never had a problem because I do all those tips you gave your friend. He showed you some diesel additives, that is what I use also. I also added a better fuel filtration system on the truck and use a treatment to deal with the microbe problems with the bio fuel added the the diesel. Back in 2012 when they started to add 5% bio-fuel to the diesel, my 98 12v cummins fuel filter plugged up because of the microbes growth on the filter. Still have the 98 12v and no issues for 27 years.
Excellent insite. And after listening to this my next F series will be gas. I just don’t have the time to worry about all the ins and outs of this engine or expense. Anyone agree?
As a future diesel truck buyer (next year or so) this is a true eye opener as far as maintenance
The spectro oil analysis Program ( SOAP), is an excellent way to know the conditions of your oil and internal engine moving parts.
As a retired aircraft mechanic we used it to test acceptable conditions of various metal wear and fuel contamination including environmental dirt, silicone dust particles in parts per million. Excellent advice Dave.
I could listen to you impart your knowledge all day, Dave. Much thanks.
Glad you put this out, i myself just bought a new 2022 6.7 long bed f250!
Diesel is rated at a cetane. not octane. Great tips. It's great having someone knowledgeable on your side.
I would definitely educate him on the difference between #1, #2 and off-road red dye diesel.
I been driving trucks since I was 10 years old Now I’m in my 40s I’m looking forward to buy my first diesel truck. And this video man help me understand a lot more thanks Dave. Gracias 🙏🏼
Downshifting to a lower gear will reduce your EGT’s. I have seen it. I have done it.
Some nice crook removed the DPF off my 22 I was not upset at all
😂😂😂 must have been a relative with some knowledge 🤙🏼
did they just leave you some regular ol mufflers too? what a dink of a thief lol
@@jasoneardley2202did you see Dave's short about the government air force truck that came from factory deleted? Talk about screwed up, rules for thee not for us
@@lewisbolman7862funny that you mentioned that about the military diesels. Deployed military vehicles, from trucks to tanks, all have to use the same fuel in the name of simplifying logistics; since the late 1970s, for the U.S. Army, that's been JP-8, the same jet fuel used in Air Force fighters and bombers. As such, Ford has made its deployable Rangers with the 2.0-liter Panther diesel engine jet-fuel compatible by adding a non-catalytic muffler system, blocking the EGR valve, and re-mapping the ECU.
@@mickyfingazin 88-91 my time in reg army , we only had jp4.
Dave Thank you! I plan to buy a newer Ford 7.3 and you helped me prepare how to maintain my dream truck! You may consider a short video program you can sell online for beginners like myself on topics based on your experience on what to look for on buying a used ford truck based on the years and or type of motor, how to maintain Ford truck based on the years and other separate videos on topics on what parts to upgrade and brand parts that are reliable. I’m sure many people would buy your online programs! Keep up the videos!
Hi Dave, I love your words of wisdom. Thank you.
You are very welcome
My Dad had his 2013 model Holden (Chevrolet) Colorado RG which is fitted with the 2.8 litre turbocharged Diesel Duramax engine dyno tuned after my brother replaced the standard exhaust system with a 3 inch diameter & mandrel bent exhaust system,a larger intercooler & the tuner also did a combustion chamber decoke by removing the cylinder head & cleaning that & the piston crowns up as well as the Inlet & exhaust ports, they also did an EGR valve delete prior to retuning it.
The end result was a power increase from 147 flywheel kilowatts to 198 flywheel kilowatts & it also puts out 500 Newton metres of torque now.
I noticed that it has a lot more grunt than it used to have !
Dave, if you read this, I want to maybe have a little discussion with you and get your thoughts because there were a couple things that you mentioned that I disagree with. But, before you potentially respond, I want you to understand that I really like your channel and even though I've been in the industry for going on about 28 to 29 years almost now, I am fully aware that you probably have way more knowledge than me based on the fact that you do a lot of engine rebuilds and you have all the equipment you do and have probably worked on quite a few more vehicles than I have over the decades.
So, that being said or typed, I have a lot of respect for what you do and I think that you know your shit to put it bluntly.
However.......
The first one being when he was talking to you about the fuel and the DEF fluid when you were standing by the diesel fuel door and you said the number one thing, I completely disagree that the number one thing that you pointed out.
The NUMBER 1 THING you should have told him is to never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever put the DEF fluid in the wrong hole and accidentally put it in the diesel fuel fill hole or spout. That is the number one thing that I hear people do that is unfortunately the demise of their truck.
I don't know how many stories I have heard from clients or even read online or in forums or groups or watched videos of people that have unfortunately just not paid attention for whatever stupid reason and the next thing you know, they accidentally put the DEF fluid in the diesel hole and they now have about $15,000 worth of repairs on their truck.
The next thing that I disagree with you on is that I think they should probably be changing their fuel filters about every 10,000 miles and in some cases maybe every 5,000 miles if it's a little bit older truck. I'm actually a little bit surprised that you suggested going up to 15,000 miles and even though that might be the case in somebody's situation where they are only driving highway miles, I don't think that's a good suggestion considering how much these newer vehicles cost for repairs.
I understand that these newer trucks unfortunately have more expensive fuel filters and I believe they cost anywhere from about $70 to $100 and sometimes up to $140 if it's a Dodge diesel so I understand that this gets to be expensive if you're doing this every 5,000 miles or every 10,000 miles. The older diesel pickups had fuel filters that were anywhere from $10 to $30 and if you found them online and got a kit, you might even save a little bit more money. So, if your fuel filter is roughly $20 to $30, then you should just change it right along with your oil filter change interval which should be around 5,000 miles to 7000 miles or maybe at the most 10,000 miles if you are driving ONLY Highway miles.
As you know Dave, for someone that uses their truck as a work truck such as somebody that's hauling loads with it everyday like a hot shot type of truck or somebody that's hauling livestock like a farmer would do or doing some sort of work with it day in and day out, it's considered "Severe Duty" and they should be changing their oil probably every 5,000 miles if not every 4,000 miles. As such, they should just be changing their fuel filter right along with that just to make sure that they are having as clean of fuel go into the engine as possible. At the very least, they can maybe change the fuel filter every other oil change if they are doing oil changes at about 5,000 mile intervals.
I know that you mentioned around 3500 miles with a full synthetic but honestly, I think that's going to be a bit overkill even for a truck that's considered severe Duty in many cases. For "most" diesel pickup owners, 5000 miles is probably plenty and I could even see some severe Duty situations going up to 6000 miles or 7,000 miles and possibly even further with oil analysis like you mentioned.
Serious question here. How does a dirty fuel filter lead to dirty fuel. I can see it increasing fluid pressure drop across the filter but I don't understand why it would mean less clean fuel, unless it is so clogged that it starts to bypass. The guy in this video appears to have a new HO 6.7 which has the CP4 fuel pump. I have one (an F-450) on order now. They're known to be sensitive and people tell you to change the fuel filter frequently, but I'm struggling to understand how a clean filter leads to cleaner fuel. I also see recommendations for lubricity additive such as Archoil to help preserve this pump because it was designed for European fuel instead of American fuel which, apparently, is less lubricious. I'm curious your thoughts on that. And finally, I currently by bulk Diesel fuel and keep it on the property here in a tank with a pump and a filter for my trucks (2 of them, 7.3 PSD) and other equipment (four implements and a generator). Do you think it would be okay to use this on a new Ford 6.7 or is fuel station diesel safer?
@@NateAIM I don't know if you're question is directed at me but I'll answer as if it was. Also, I don't know if you're trying to play coy or troll me here or whoever you're question was intended towards however, I guess I'll play along if you are trolling. If not, then I guess your intentions are legitimate and that's that. So, here are my thoughts.
As far as a filter "cleaning" the fuel anymore than it already has been coming out of the nozzle from a fuel fill up station, I guess obviously it can't be any more clean than that so it's not about it being "more clean" and it's more about it being less "dirty". So, I guess if you want to get technical or get into semantics, I suppose the filter is more about it "filtering" as the name suggests and trying to let less small dirty particles or debris pass through it which in turn could potentially cause an issue down the line.
So, it's more about NOT allowing as many small particles of debris get through which can obviously cause corrosion and build up but potentially even worse, it could cause failure over time which is what people do not want to have happen obviously.
As far as the fuel injection pump being designed for European diesel engines, I don't have that info. I also don't know if the fuel in the USA is any different than in Europe although I have read things about this claim over the years. If there is a difference, I'm not sure what it is other than as you mentioned with your comment which is allegedly, the diesel fuel in Europe or overseas has better chemical (or biological) properties to it which allows it to have more lubricity which also helps prolong the life of the components of which it will touch or pass through such as the injectors and the fuel lines. I would assume also the internal parts of the engine such as the combustion chamber and so on.
As far as you purchasing diesel fuel in bulk and being able to use it in your vehicles, well, that depends on how you intend to use your vehicles or where you intend to operate them.
Roughly 3 decades ago almost, I was told that off-road diesel fuel that you would typically buy in bulk for people like farmers was not the same diesel as you would buy at the pumps because it wasn't taxed and that's why it was less expensive and also had a red dye that was coloring the off-road diesel fuel. Also, years ago I was told that the off-road diesel was a "dryer" fuel. However, after doing research more recently, I have come to the conclusion that that particular claim (that the off road diesel fuel was more "dry") was probably never true or at least if it was, it has changed over the last few decades.
Based on the research I have done, the off-road diesel fuel and the diesel fuel you would purchase at a typical fuel station are the same and the only difference is they are colored differently and the off-road diesel has a red dye to it and obviously the diesel you get at the pumps has a greenish tint to it. To my knowledge, the lubricity of either diesel fuel is the same. But, don't take my word for it and go and do your own research to make your own decision. I'm just going off of many various sites I read over the years since this has been a topic of debate on various forms over the years.
As far as being allowed to use the diesel fuel in your vehicles, well, as long as you are not using those vehicles on a state or federal or city street or highway or interstate, I would assume that you could use that fuel and not have any problems. At least not legally speaking or with the EPA. However, the problem arises when you start to put that fuel in your tank and then you decide to drive on a street or a highway or an interstate or some other government regulated roadway. At that point, the diesel fuel in your pickup is supposed to be taxed and as a result, if you get caught using that off-road diesel fuel that you would typically buy in bulk that has a red dye to it, you could get caught with some sort of infractions and having to pay a hefty fine from what I am told. I have fortunately never had to worry about that issue so I can't speak from personal experience and I am only going off of what people have stated or what the laws are regarding using off-road fuel compared to diesel fuel you would purchase at a typical fuel station.
If you want to live on the wild side and run that stuff, by all means go ahead but the little bit of savings you're going to have in not having to pay the taxes or what have you is probably not worth it if you consider the hefty fine and potential jail time you could face if you get pulled over and caught. That's your call obviously. I don't care as it doesn't affect me. But, one other thing to check before you start putting off-road diesel fuel in your vehicles is to find out if it actually voids your warranty if you do have a warranty on your vehicles. Keep in mind that these manufacturers will try to find any excuse that they can to try to get out of having to pay for warranty service so you better know that if you ever have an issue with your injectors or your fuel system, they're going to take a sample and determine whether or not you have proper diesel fuel in your tank or running through your system and if you have off-road diesel in your system while there is a failure, they could potentially try to claim that was the reason why there was a failure. I don't know and that's why I said to talk to whoever is in charge of your warranty so in your case, go and talk to your Ford dealer to make sure that you get it in writing that it will be covered because you know damn well just talking to a service writer is not going to cover your butt if you have an issue down the road. Furthermore, I would probably rather get confirmation from a corporate person directly from Ford because just going to a dealer isn't going to cover your butt either if you try to make a claim I need to have $12,000 to almost $15,000 worth of repairs done to your fuel system all because you used off-road Fuel and they are trying to say that they are not going to cover it. You need to cover your butt here. But, if you have vehicles that are out of warranty, then obviously this doesn't matter. Do whatever you want. Again, I was going to do your own research to determine whether off-road fuel is different as far as the lubricity properties or other properties or not and whether it's just a different color and that is it.
As far as what lubricants or additives you should use to try to help preserve the injection pump or prolong the life of it, I have not personally used Arch oil as I am a fan of Hot Shots secret however, I will admit that I have actually watched a video or two that has debunked whether or not Hot Shots secret is worth a crap or ANY additive for that matter. I know that Arch oil has gotten more popular since some people watch the TH-cam channel called Powerstroke help and unfortunately the owner of the channel passed away this past year but he always promoted it I think even back as far as when the 7.3 L Powerstroke came out or the 6.0 power strokes. I can't remember for sure but I know it's been a while now that he promoted it.
Not only him but also I believe Powerstroke Tech with A-Rod also promotes it as well and he is a well-known automotive tech with a TH-cam channel that focuses mainly with the Powerstrokes and usually more of the newer ones such as the 6.7.
I'm not sure which video it was that I watched but I do watch various oil videos whether it be from Project Farm or Lake Speed (that might not be the name of his channel so go and look up his name and you can find some videos from him) and Lake Speed is now becoming known as probably the oil "guru" because of his expertise with oil and the engineering or physics of it and he does a lot of great videos so you would want to watch him.
Again, I'm not exactly sure which one it was but I believe there was one or two that I watched that said that Hot Shots secret doesn't really do much but I used it when I was driving more of the diesel pickups when I had a couple 6.0 powerstrokes and I didn't have any issues with the fuel so my experience was positive. And to be honest, I know and one of the Diesels that I was driving more regularly that I had the fuel pressure dropped to pretty much zero when it was really cold out and the diesel I got from one of the stations must have been bad diesel or I got the wrong kind and I drove it more than a few hundred miles with having extremely low fuel pressure and once I got better diesel, it went right back up to where I needed to be and I never had any issues with the injectors. I actually unfortunately did this to that pickup a number of times where I was running almost zero fuel pressure and I never had issues with the injectors whether it be with its starting or power or anything of that nature. I did have a couple starting issues but that was electrical related and nothing to do with the injectors.
I realize I am a very small sample size compared to companies with many vehicles or people with multiple vehicles in general so you take it for whatever you want. I know that a lot of people stand by the Hot Shots secret brand of additives and they also like their oil I believe. But, I am sure that Arch oil is pretty good as well. They are both probably pretty good.
@@NateAIM I would highly suggest to look into getting the injection pump disaster prevention kit and install it on your 6.7. Although it might actually prevent a disaster from happening, I believe it does help reroute where the debris might end up which could save you a lot of money overall. I would rather have this even if I had a brand new truck and avoided the warranty assuming that it was going to have the truck for 300,000 Mi or more. I don't want to have all that little bit of debris getting past the injection pump and into the injectors and then potentially even extremely small particles getting past the injector tips and into the combustion chamber over the time that I had my vehicle. I would rather spend the money and void my warranty then not have it on and have issues down the road.
@@NateAIMToyota got rid of fuel filters a few years back. Bad Idea!
I run a 2001 Cummins dodge. Second truck I owned. I found the addition of a FASS or Air dog system critical.
First of all, my filters are easy to change and I filter to 2 microns. I was using a 20 micron wiz prior to the current air dig install.
Second, these FASS systems continuously filter and condition fuel. They remove water and entrained air.
Third, I monitor fuel pressure and can see when I get a drop, that’s its time to change filters.
In many parts of the US, fueling stations are clean and pristine. The storage tanks are new and under ground. Great fuel to start with.
In parts of Wyoming, tanks are decades old above ground tanks. So you get water condensation, rust particles and sometimes a biological slime in the fuel. I am not a biologist but I understand it’s some kind of algae.
So these trips can shorten a fuel filter swap out. Check your fuel pressure gauge! My current engine has a VP44 pump. Stay on top of things and you’re OK.
Also, living in the cold, I got used to spiking fuel with Howells diesel treat. Used to mix off road #1 with #2 in the cold to keep fuel from gelling up.
But Howells improve lubricity which has been lacking since the mandate of using ultra low sulfur in about 2007.
Bought my first diesel (2022 2500HD) your channel was my first stop!!
I love what he said "Do your maintenance, I'm busy!" 😂 Absolutely love it!
I'm a 62 year old woman. I own 2 diesel trucks one is an F-250 Ford the other is a 2500 Cummins. I love the channel. I have learned so much it scares me to drive them because the expense of nowadays lol. This video was awesome thank you Dave ❣️⚔️🧡
Hot Shot Secret EDT is another good additive.
Dave install catch cans for your custom. The EGR gets clogged with oil soot sticks. This is the main problem. Learn about fuel catalyst which burns suit at a lower temperature. It is an additive such as redline oil 85+ or better yet Pittsburgh power max mileage. Install water injection snow performance. Lowers EGT and totally cleans the intake system makes it look brand new.
Nice truck. And by contrast to the Cybertruck, this one actually works and be used as a truck.
Before you even started talking about boats I was going to say a lot of older Detroit’s on sport fishing boats put out so much soot you can stand on the back deck while underway. Down south where it’s extremely hot all year around those sport fishing boats that sit will grow algae in the fuel tank. Fuel polishing ain’t no joke. I bought a 50 foot sport fishing boat in Miami and not knowing about fuel polishing or algae growing in the tank the boat sat in 85 degree temp for 4 months without being ran and I jumped on and left for the Bahamas for a month. I took a crash course in Detroit 12v92 engines and the fuel system went thru 12 primary filters or racor as they are called in a month and a hand full of secondary filter and eventually the floor had to cut up because the feed from the main tank to the port engine was 85% blocked so the whole trip I had to run one engine on my primary tank and one on the aux tank
I always learned some new from Dave everyday!
Hey Dave - that was a good laugh - we have good quality diesel here in SJU Puerto Rico! But yes, we do polish our tanks yearly due to the fact that we travel to the Dominican Republic and the BVIs frequently. We have Man 1300s on our Viking and we need to take great care of the fuel system. Greetings from Puerto Rico
Hello Puerto Rico! Thanks for watching
Absolutely beautiful truck! Bravo!
The proper maintenance of your truck is the 2nd hardest part of owning a diesel. The hardest part is finding a trustworthy, knowledgeable, reliable mechanic like Dave and his team. I wish there was a no-doubt way to find a local mechanic that had ethical, no shortcut mechanics to take my diesel to. Because these modern diesel engines are so sensitive to even the smallest improper maintenance misstep having a shop that can ensure zero mistakes is critical.
That was a beautiful looking truck. 🫡
Yes it was!
Thank you Dave for taking the time, but most importantly, thank you for your obedience to our King
You should have mentioned about towing up any steep grade you should always take it out of overdrive.
That truck has the 10 speed transmission and does not have a manual OD switch to turn it off. No need for one - the transmission is very good and shifts to the appropriate gear on its own.
Dave, this was an excellent video. I currently drive a 2007 Honda fit and I plan on getting a truck one of these days. It was not boring.