I am a Master Diesel Mechanic. What you are saying is partially correct. The worst thing you can do is let a diesel engine idle. That will cause fuel dilution in the oil very fast. Especially in temperatures below 68°. Start your truck, gently raise the rpm's to 1000 with the accelerator pedal, then let off the accelerator pedal. Wait about 60 seconds, then drive for the next couple of miles SLOWLY. Meaning, accelerate slowly, and don't drive above 45mpg. One thing about a diesel, ANY diesel engine, is they will not get up to operating temperature just idling. I luckily have an 03 ram 3500 dually, high output Cummins Diesel with the aisen 5600 6 speed manual trans. I took my grid heater off. I almost never plug it in, and I've never had a moments trouble with it. I have also from day 1 run Power Service Diesel Fuel Additive in my fuel. White bottle in the winter, silver bottle in the summer. I also use Hot Shot Stiction Eliminator every other oil change. If anyone has any questions on brand new modern Diesels, or older Diesels. Hit me up. I'm happy to help. One final note. I have right at 30 years turning wrenches on Diesels, so I know my stuff. God Bless you all. Good video, thanks for sharing with people who don't know these things.
I usually warm up my Massey tractor for about 15 minutes at around 1200 rpm to get everything including the hydro moving when it is cold out here at 4600ft high desert.
Idling. Incomplete combustion clogs up the EGR so quickly. I don't idle and drive almost exclusively on the interstate. After 110k miles my EGR had almost no soot.
@@aaron___6014 I was under the impression EGR only happens during partial throttle cruising and not idling or heavy throttle conditions. Idling definitely clogs up the DPF though because that thing is always in the way of the exhaust stream. EGR has a valve and a cooler to try to lessen the damage it does but there is no denying it is terrible for engine longevity. Early emissions engines from the mid to late 2000s and into the early 2010's relied heavily on it to meet the tailpipe sniffer standards and were some of the worst.
@BrandonLeech I've read the EGR valve is open most during low load conditions (light throttle) because NOx formation is higher due to leaner combustion conditions. To lower the NOx production the EGR is opened, which lowers the oxygen content of intake air and lowers peak combustion temps. And partially open during idle. So sounds similar to what you said. These new diesels are just getting so complicated. Intercoolers that fill with water and ice up, high pressure egrs, EGR coolers that leak, low pressure egrs, cats, DPFs. Crazy.
@@Yolbosun My daughter has a 2018 terrain with 1.6L diesel gets over 40mpg and I wand to del all emissions on it has 89k miles never had a mech issue just some emission issues like all the rest of the late model undel diesels
"Wet stacking" is a potential issue with ANY diesel engine, pre-emission control or current generation. The biggest issue in the current (2007 MY+) diesel is the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) and Exhaust Gas Recirculation. The two systems work at cross purposes. EGR is used to LOWER combustion temperatures to reduce NOx emissions, but lower combustion temperatures INCREASE particulate emissions which then have to be trapped then burned by regens in the DPF. SCR/DEF systems were designed to remove more NOx post-combustion, so that less EGR would be needed to reduce combustion temps in the cylinder. But the SCR/DEF system has its own reliability issues and most engines still require EGR, too. The whole 2007 MY+ diesel emission system regimen is unreliable, expensive, increases fuel consumption, while only achieving relatively modest percentage reductions in diesel emissions from pre-2003-2007 MY diesel engines. The truth is that, for most of the U.S. outside of some metro area with air pollution compliance issues, diesel emission standards should be rolled back to pre-2003 emission standards while retaining modern electronic fuel injection technology. And, yes, diesel engines in vehicles registered and used primarily outside of "non-attainment" air pollution standards areas, should be allowed to have their DEF/SCR, DPF, and EGR components removed from the vehicle by its owner or designated mechanic.
And for the record, allowed or not, the DPF and EGR are coming off, full stop. End of story. When they start making my $100k+ truck payments, they can tell me how to run them.
Soot going back into engine causes wear and blackens oil quickly. Soot had a griddy feel to it. I've been changing my oil every 5k miles conventional or 7k max for synthetic. Since weight reduction has happened, oil has stayed cleaner like a gas engine . Idle up to minimize fuel dilution and will up ur oil psi for better lubrication. Make sure to idle engine for 10minutes after long drive and towing before shut down.
@@TravNasty520I’m glad I’m not alone, I’m changing oil every 3k due to a lot of traffic. Sadly I don’t think this will help our longevity now due to emissions.
Lol. My new bestest friend Elonia manufactures electric vehicles but I'm going to help the diesel truck guys. 😂😂😂😂You might want to recheck your math on that equation!@@goprozack4255
Bought my 2022 GMC Denali Duramax for hauling my nearly 13,000lb tow behind camper. It sits in the driveway until it’s needed to pull the trailer or needed to travel country roads during blowing snow. I can better afford to replace my Honda CR-v than a $105,000 diesel truck used as a daily driver. And yes, I understand not all can afford to do this. It’s a blessing we can.
Same here. Why commute with a diesel truck when I have a low pollution Honda CR-V sitting next to it. My diesel truck in low mileage and 25 years old. We all have to do our part to keep our planet inhabitable.
You are correct about letting your diesel engine fully warm up.. short trips are horrible on any engine. But you are dead WRONG about owning a 100,000 vehicle being a blessing!! Owning a 100,000 vehicle has nothing to do with the Lord or being a blessing. There was no 100,000 vehicles in the Bible. Put your treasures in heaven not on Earth...
I own a 2017 Silverado 2500 diesel. From a suggestion from a truck driver, I installed an Amsoil Oil Bypass Filtration kit that has two filters to reduce and remove soot and other contaminants from the oil. I've had it on my truck for about 3 years now. Every 10K miles I get an oil analysis done and the results always come back the same, top off the oil and go another 10k miles. I have changed the oil and both filters at the 20K mark. The bypass oil filter lasts up to 70K miles according to Amsoil, but I'm not going to test that. The kit is rather pricy, but I feel it's worth it.
I did the same thing. Test oil every 10,000 miles. Let the oil tell you when it needs to be changed. Also let’s you know if anything else is happening in your engine.
I have a 2021 2500hd duramax. I use amsoil and amsoil filter Change the oil every 5000 miles. Idc if people say it's a waste truck runs awesome and I have peace of mind I don't understand people who pay a fortune for diesel truck and change oil once a year makes 0 sense
Agreed. The real problem with diesels these days is emmisions crap. Dpf egr vgt chargers, pcv have absolutely destroyed diesel engines. GET RID OF THE DPF EGR ETC. if your truly worried about ur truck reliability INTAKE EXHAUST usbs just aka let it breathe
Diesel owner for 20years now have a 7.3 godzilla. 2023 with 31k on it and so far so good. Great truck and pulls great. Plus I can buy a lot of gas 87 even for 10+k for todays diesel options.
@@ronaldbertin9455 I have a LB7 over 300K runs great so happy with. 21mpg at one time now like 14 - 16 ?? Xtra cab short bed my first diesel I've worked on 350 Chevy rebuilt carburetor when in high school 40 years ago I still don't know how to adjust a retired the timing and such I hear it's not what people do these days I use my ears to tune cars yes I can still hear. through my lifetime I have taken over a half a dozen cars to be repare shops only to have to fix myself after I get them back mostly vacuum leaks most recent 2013 CTS got it back from an oil change from Brake Masters got home and a vacuum hose was off I really don't know if it was their fault or not but I think they should have found it anyways good luck to you guys that work on your own cars the engines never change as you work on them you'll learn them nothing changes its only mechanical good luck to you guys I recently replaced the radiator on my Duramax after seeing it could be up to 2400$ per internet to have it done I was able to replace it for less than 500 bucks no I did not replace the thermostat or the water pump as talk to multiple friends that asked me why would you change it if it ain't broke after realizing how easy it would be to access them I told myself good question I'm working on my masters University of TH-cam
Purchased a new 2024 Silverado 3500HD (SRW) in May, 2024. Oil change at 700 miles. Oil analysis by Speediagnostix. Viscosity was good and typical particulates for a new engine. In a couple weeks, another oil change with 3,000 more miles. I'll send a sample for analysis. I also add 12 oz. Diesel Kleen+Cetane Boost with every fill up. This next oil change will show if there is oil dilution. I'll change the oil every 5,000 from now on. Thanks for the video.
Egr remove it as long as the goverment does on their trucks. i personally don't believe there is any moral dilemma. It's ridiculous to push the unreliability of there bull shit in the consumers especially when they charge 100k for a new truck
I service my own truck. I change my oil @ 6,000 miles. I use Rotella T-6 15w-40 synthetic oil. I also pre-fill the new oil filter, before installing it.
The 6.7 Cummins engine block heater cord is tuck up under front left side of just above tow hook. When facing the front look under the left lower side of bumper. It’s standard on all 6.7 Cummins engines.
Emissions systems are a killer and fuel formulations don't have the lubricity these fuel systems need. Use high quality oil and change it often and this won't be an issue, if the EGR is gone
I’ve had diesels for over 20 years both old and new. I can tell you one thing for certain do not ever under any circumstance take a diesel over 7000 miles before an oil change. I don’t care what your analysis says. Secondly, you must at every single fill up, put an additive inthirdly use the 10 minute rule. Do not let your diesel idle more than 10 minutes. I’ve had over 20 years of completely problem free driving on both old and modern diesels.
@ Well, obviously if things in life are beyond our control, we have to roll with it. I’m referring mostly to people who just let them idle on job sites or feel like when it’s 35° out there diesel needs to warm up for 20 minutes, what you’re describing is, and I mean as general, best industry standards is to not let them idol.
Have never understood why people idle more than what is needed for cooling down (2-4 minutes) Hydraulic lifters only make idling more damaging. When idling you have lower oil pressure. I’m convinced this is the main reason for problems with hydraulic lifters. You need high oil pressure for the oil to reach the top of the engine. Low oil pressure and fuel dilution is a bad combo.
I'm a advocate of minimal idling. That said, a lot of trucks are used vocationally in applications that require the engine to extended idle. A good example are ambulances and fire trucks. In many jurisdictions, ambulance and fire departments are quietly (and, yes, illegally) deleting the emissions systems from their vehicles so that the vehicles do not go into "limp mode" or shut down completely when extended idling during normal and emergency use. In my home county, every ambulance has had its diesel emission system deleted. If I'm having a heart attack, I don't want the responding ambulance delayed or stopped by a plugged DPF.
I am a truck driver, I’m not talking about a pickup, I drive 18 wheelers. The DEF system with the DPF is the biggest problem that we have. Diesel engines were never designed to have a DEF system on them nor were they designed to have a muffler on them. Those two things reduce the efficiency and the power of the engine. I had a one year old Peterbilt and the Diesel Particulate Filter, (DPF), clogged up and had to be replaced. The cost was $9,000. I sure wish they would wake up and allow us to delete the DEF system. I understand that the EPA has determined that the DEF system does nothing to save the environment. I have also heard that the 2025 trucks will not be required to have the DEF system, I’m not sure if that is true but one can only dream.
Your 💯 percent correct, im a former OTR independent trucker , just retired in May of 2023, did 42 years, i sold my last tractor which was a 2019 389 peterbilt, and had issues all the time because of that BS DEF system, with sensors ETC always in the shop, couldn't they that crap anymore,,,,, be safe out there.
I hadn’t heard the 2025’s will be unrestricted. I hope what you said is correct. Maybe they know Trump is for truckers and working folk. Maybe he lifts the BS regulations killing out money makers. Time will tell. 🇺🇸
@@CodyLeon Both ideally. Keeping the motor working harder keeps the cylinder temps up and the soot down. That will help keep an emissions motor running right.
Excellent video JB! When I hear someone say they're looking for a diesel pickup, once a few questions are asked I often stir them towards a gasser as quite often they don't need the pulling power (or expenses) of a diesel.
GM with their 3.0 duramaxes now do make an egr that filters through the dpf, so the soot doesn't get citculated through the engine. Needles to say, it would be best if none of the crap was on it in the first place.
This is the first time I’ve seen someone else give this fact in the comments. Good job, at least one other person actually understands the 3.0 emissions system. Hopefully trump will gut the EPA, but I think this crap is here to stay…
@@CodyLeon only had my AT4 for a month and 2200 miles but easily the best overall truck I’ve driven. I have a buddy with a 2020 LM2 who has 80k and only a dpf failure under warranty. While that sucks, it’s running strong. Plenty of good units but don’t let the handful on the forums get you down on them.
@@hammer-r I'm all for clean air and water. What I'm not for is non-elected regulators setting and enforcing arbitrary limits on emissions without the slightest bit of knowledge or consideration for reality.
I have a 2003 7.3L and a 1986 6.9L and I LOVE AND LOVE them. Hundreds of thousands of miles. I get my oil analyzed, I recommend you do too. It is interesting to read the reports every time.
I too have an 86 F-250 6.9 with a T-19 trans and 360K miles on it. It`s our daily driver. It`s all mechanical, and just keeps on going. Have had it 10 years. Bought it with 192K. Have had Diesels since 10/81when I bought a new Datsun 720 KC Diesel for $7620. Drove it 30 years and 480K miles. Still have it along with 9 Mercedes Diesels. The old stuff just runs, and not a lot of maintenance to do on them. I recommend a Racor Fuel filter with the water/sediment trap. I use the FG500 with a 2 micron on the Ford and the FG200 on the Mercedes and Datsun. Amazing the crap in the fuel they catch. Especially with these newer Diesels with the high flutin touchy fuel systems.
The WORST thing is warming a truck up by idling. The colder the weather the worse this is, use the block heater like you pointed out. After you fire up in the morning, just give it 30 seconds for oil circulation, then put it in gear and head out.
Your right. Dpf or cats give engines COPD. The only perscription is more freedom. Maybe oil catch can is good for diesels too. Instead of oil vapor being recycled back into the intake.
@paulpetraitis2130 Ive had a 2001 5.9 Cummins for over 15 years, and bought a 2008 6.7 a few years back for a mile muncher truck to move half way across Canada, I have well over half a million miles between the two, use nothing but Rotella T6, never had a motor issue ever. Its expensive, like $200 for an oil change with the filter, but worth every penny. I wouldn't run anything else.
Would you recommend Shell Rotella T6 for the "babymax" 4 cylinder 2.8 LWN in the GMC Colorado/Canyon trucks or better to stick with what manufacturer recommends?
@@slyder4life it's honestly great for any motor, Diesel, gas, natural gas, propane, whatever you got. I run it in my VW GTI VR6, my Honda Seadoo, my Chinese mini excavator, quite literally everything I own.
@@slyder4life I've heard of drag racing guys using it too. I think the key is it has alot more detergents and natural minerals that aren't found in any other oil, synthetic, dino, all of them.
Additives like Hot Shots Everyday Diesel helps to reduce soot by better fuel burn, adds lubricity, and cleans. There is a noticeable difference in less regens needed when I’m using it.
I put a high idle kit on my ford 6.7. If I’m going to idle, I idle at 1,000 - 1200 rpm to prevent wet stack. I have 76,000 miles on mine and I have always used Shell Rotella T-6 5w-40 (full synthetic). Recently Ford reprogrammed my computer to regenerate more often and will continue to regen after I crank it again in the event I turn off the engine before a complete regen.
I run 40W in the winter and 50W in the summer (most of the summer is 100F+) for my 1st gen 5.9 Cummins. I monitor oil pressure to monitor dilution - easy to see the drop after a few thousand miles (usually 4K miles) plus engine oil temp.
Delete the emissions! That’s what I’d did with my Cummins. No DPF filter, No EGR system either. No smog test in my state, so I pass inspections every year.
Good video JB, this issue is not talked about enough! Dealing with this issue on a buddies Ram now, thought he just overfilled since he was up over a quart of oil. I'm thinking leaky injectors? Also I've always used an oil additive Lucas, maybe you should do a review of additives?
It’s not commonly known, that anytime the check engine light goes on, that the entire emissions system shuts down and will NOT Regenerate, causing the DPF filter to completely plug up with in a short amount of time.
I have a 24 F350 Platinum I waited for this model year for the 9th injector on the DPF so it wasn't flooding my engine. I only use Amsoil 5W-30 as i'm in the Adirondacks of NY and change it out @3-3500k 4 gallons is a bummer each time but I reuse it on the mowers. Can't wait to get the Banks stuff on the truck but waiting for it to break in and hope they get the Diff covers done in time! Really want to try the iDash for my EGT. Nice video!
I have several diesel engines… Cummings and Cat … freightliner and Dodge Ram 3500 trucks… the best oil for all diesel engines is Chevron delo 15/40 … during winter season in temps of minus 10 to minus 35 … I switch to Shell rotella 5W 40 full synthetic… once my Ram 3500 hit 100 K and warranty expired, I removed all my pollution systems… my engine runs cooler and got better fuel economy… thank you for sharing your video… cheers
EGR is the #1 thing I deal with our 6.7's. The whole emissions system DOC, DPF and SCR just suck. It adds a lot to the cost of the vehicle. DEF just rots the exhaust pipes.
Get the High Idle switch for your trucks. When you’re going to be at idle for an extended period of time, hit the High Idle switch. They sell it, for a reason.
I bought my first duramax 1 year ago. I really enjoy it. I change the oil every 6000. I wish the mileage was better but I can thank Uncle Sam for that.
Most fire departments leave their trucks block heaters plugged in all the time while parked. Even when parked inside. Reason I was told is that there isn’t time to warm them up obviously, and when they leave the hall, it’s foot to floor.
Trucks aren't what they used to be. Reliability gone out the window due to all these EPA mandations. I wanted to buy a diesel for better towing and longevity but hearing of the nightmares between the DEF, EGR, Fuel Pump issues and the cost of 3 gallon oil changes deferred me to buying a diesel, so I ended up going with a 2023 F250 Gasser with the 6.8L STX package and 3.73 gears. However EPA still got their fingers in on my 3/4 ton gasser with the engine idle limiter at 30 minutes. My trim level (XL) doesn't allow you to completely disable the timer. Trucks used to be a solid investment. Now a days its chance we take if we get a good one or bad apple. The prices for these trucks are out of scope. I swear that Displacement on Demand on 1/2 tons and running 5w20 in my 2019 Ram killed that engine at 60,000 Miles. Diesels running DEF, how is burning two fuels better than one. Almost purposely designing vehicles to have to be traded in every three years just to keep something dependable in the driveway. Diesels used to be one of the most reliable engines ever. You get it and understand that there is a bigger problem going on. Good video by the way. I feel for them that have to go thru a 3 gallon oil change more frequently due to this issue.
2 things you mention which apply to me. First…my ‘93 D-250 Cummins does not have a high idle option and (this is much more important) my owners manual specifically states the truck should be plugged in if expected temperatures are 40° or less. I plug mine in at 45° to get safe. I just turned 290k miles on it (I am the original owners) and I’m just starting to think of an upper end rebuild cuz it’s smoking pretty good now. I change my oil (always have) every 3000 miles. Of course my truck is too old to have a DPF on it (thank God). Great Video…thanks!
I have 2004.5 GMC 2500HD 435,000 miles still going strong ! I’m sorry you guys won’t ever see that out y’all’s new ones, It’s sad our government is the reason !
Diesel Tech said to me when I brought my 2015 Ecodiesel for warranty work on the emissions. Change the oil every 5K miles and change the fuel filter every 10K. Use Blue Def fluid and check the date. Never go below half a tank on the Def. Use Hot Shot’s EDT at every fill up with one ounce for 20 gallons of diesel. Use Hot Shot’s Extreme Diesel every oil change to keep the fuel system clean. Preventative maintenance. Had I known this from the beginning would’ve saved me having the Def system replaced.
Pretty sure diesel extreme says to use no more than every 15,000 or 12 months? I do a treatment once a year, and use Hot Shots Secret EDT in summer and Howes diesel treat in winter (anti gel)…
I have a 2006 Kodiak LLY Monroe RV Hauler 143000’ just got my first oil analysis done. I use Royal purple 15/40 synthetic I change it every 5000 miles or less. I tow 40 foot fifth wheel in the Northwest and Southwest oil analysis came back great according to Blackstone lab. I use a K&N air filter, banks aftermarket 20 fin oil cooler no delete everything stock from the factory, all I can say is do your maintenance I have a Fass fuel system. I very really let the truck get below half a tank of diesel. Old trucks rock Check out Gary‘s Black rock performance and his Kodiak He has all the specialty gear and knowledge for most older diesel trucks
My 1990 Toyota Land Cruiser…….1-HDT diesel, no EGR, NO DEF, it just runs and runs. Not a huge power output but…….it runs. Great info on fuel dilution. I get an oil analysis done at every oil change.
It's the SCR and DPF systems. That's what kills the engines ultimately. However, the new machining standards, lesser materials, added complexity definitely plays into the issue. Most people don't even do regular oil level checks on their engine much less actually change their fluids
I was standing behind my Frieghtliner tractor equipped with that shit. Gotta say I didn't smell anything and only felt hot air blowing from the exhaust pipe beneath the cat walk, just saying....
I bought my 05 ram 3500 brand new with 3 MI, it still looks runs and drives as if new.. I waited and bought this model for a reason, 24 valve, electronically controlled and not a mechanical fuel pump type on the 12 V. No emissions whatsoever on my truck. Wouldn't trade it for a brand new one. I'm the only one who does the maintenance. I've had the truck almost 20 years and I'm almost 70 years old and it'll go another 30, when I die my grandson gets it.
I am guessing you live in an area that doesn't spread any salt or calcium on winter roads, or you park the truck for the winter. Anywhere that a vehicle is driven where they spread the crap, that severely shortens the life of vehicles.
@@Yolbosun At one time I believe it was only salt mixed with sand that they used up here but then they started adding percentages of calcium chloride into the mix depending on what they felt the situation called for, however in some key locations I am sure its upwards of close to 100 % calcium chloride that they spread on intersections and certainly on some river hill sections of road. As its said calcium is 9 times more corrosive than salt due to the fact that it sucks the moisture out of the air and rust is able to occur 24/7 as a result. And yes they also use calcium on certain gravel roads for dust control or in front of farmers yards.
Is this a problem on early 2000s diesels? I have a 2003 GMC 2500 HD diesel and have never had any engine problems. Course it is babied and and not driven a lot anymore since my mare passed away. Only has 109,000 miles and runs really well with a chip in it. This truck is a beast. Sometimes I think I want a new truck, but I’m afraid mine is way more reliable than any new truck, and I don’t have to put that DEF additive in it.
Idling a diesel for extended period has always been a problem even on older engines and in cold weather more so. Cummins started advising customers back in the 70’s about this.
If I were to buy a new truck today, it would not be a diesel!!!....I currently own a 96 Ram 2500 with the Cummins with 160000 miles, and I plan on keeping it til it dies!!
I am a marine diesel engineer for 18 years and the biggest problem with engine oil is to keep the TBM's within the desired limit. We never use multi-grade oil---only SAE 40 (in Akasaka DH40 2500) engine. The gen-sets were GM 8V70's who were notorious for burning lube oil because they were never loaded up enough to get complete combustion and hot,
The biggest killer of these engines is following the manufacturer oil change intervals Ram will let you go 15000 miles I have 2 of these trucks and they get oil change every 5000 miles and fuel filters every 10000 miles And I don’t have any issues
Exactly! On my new Ram 2024 Cummins I will change the oil every 6 months period. Took it in for oil change recently and dealer said it's way early before the 15k miles mark and said I don't care let's change it.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but block heaters only heat up the coolant, not the oil. You can, however, get a magnetic oil heater and attach it to the oil pan.
White smoke isn’t unburned fuel. White smoke is either oil or coolant. Black smoke is unburned fuel. I also run a bypass filter on my oil system. The inside of my 2010 Cummins is squeaky clean.
This right here is why I went with the 6.4 Hemi in my ram 2500. I don’t have to do or worry about any of this. Regular oil changes, spark plug changes and don’t idle my truck and I’m good to go.
I've certainly been getting that impression, the direct injection gasoline engines have that issue of oil dilution occurring when first started before they warm up enough for a proper combustion to occur. Which also points to making use of the block heater although I think on a lot of gas engines for a number of years now they have an idiotic temp sensor within the cord that doesn't allow the block heater to come on until its quite cold out. But the long and short is, its going to do your engine a favour by changing the oil a lot more frequently than what the manufacturer claims to meet the warranty ... they do not give a crap what happens after the warranty runs out, in fact they want to sell you a new vehicle and "give" them your old one.
Get a “BlueDriver” device that shows when your catalyst is getting ready to regen. Not sure if the new trucks show this, but my 2018 f350 doesn’t. You can also monitor many temps on your truck.
Fuel dilution of the oil due to extended idle time was an issue when I was a fleet manager before pollution controls in the late 80s early 90s. We shortened our service intervals during the winter to help combat this issue.
I used to plug my truck in all the time. 3500 Cummins Regular Cab Wrecker with Manual and 4x4. I also used to use Rotella which is primarily made for diesel engines. I would idle a lot in and around Philadelphia so I would change my oil regularly more than the normal diesel owners. Mine was a 94 first gen which are the best and I drove it conservatively. No Poppers or Illegals, mainly Copart and breakdowns and Gas and Electric Companies for the City. Gale Banks makes the best diesel parts for the money. 🙏
Same as the 10 speed transmission. To operate properly. I have found out. Starting at 100F. No problems shifting. My new van. Gas engine. Same thing with the transmission. I let it warm up to the first temperature mark before moving. No problems. Gas ones don't like the cold as well. Thanks.
So what do you recommend I run in my 2023 Ram 3500 high output Diesel with asin transmission Motor oil what we would work the best? by the way that’s one of the best looking GMC trucks I’ve seen I love that color the combination I really like that truck👍👍
Long oil change intervals causes a lot of problems. There’s always going to be just bad parts and fluke things that happen but any direct injected engine needs more frequent oil changes. I don’t understand the pushback from guys on this either. It’s literally the cheapest maintenance item you can do and people want to wait 7,500-10,000 miles to do it. That’s crazy.
2003 no nasty things on it I have 650 thousand miles on it only one set of injectors put in it at 350 thousand miles 5.9 Cummins keep the oil changed and I use mobile one 15/40 synthetic and wix filter and it is running good
that's not the only one! I know how it is with American vehicles but I drive and maintain a VW Amarok as a mechanic and it says in my maintenance manual that it is a Euro 4 (so without DPF) and a Euro 5. And hold on! To meet environmental standards, the engineers have turned down the oil pressure! Euro 4 is still 1.2 bar minimum pressure and 5 bar maximum pressure, which I knew during my training in the 80s. WITH EUR 5 IT IS 0.6 MINIMUM AND 2.8 MAXIMUM PRESSURE. The oil pumps simply provide less pressure because the engine can then run more economically. That combined with what you say (which I agree with) long oil intervals, the diesel that drips into the oil pan during regeneration of the DPF filter, poor viscosity, it is simply SCANDALOUS!! My amarok gets 5w30 synt every 7500 km to get a longer life out of my truck (hopefully). I hope as many people as possible read your video and my comment
I have to travel 84 round trip to work and back. It helps with frequent regeneration. I called it right warmer it is more efficient it is . Weather right now fluctuates 28 in morning to 65 in late afternoon
This is why a lot of Guys run hotshots and archoil 6400/6500 but I’m going the big dually gasser I’m Not dealing with that all especially since I’m Not towing much but I’ll get max payload for when I do pull my boat and other toys. It’s just to much work/nonsense nowadays lol
I have been driving Diesel pickup trucks since the first Square body Mitsubishi 235 cu.in. ( I think ) and I was schooled by Diesel mechanics then you NEVER idle your diesel motor in cold OR warm weather . The only and best way to warm your diesel truck is sever cold weather is to drive it as soon as you can get it to rev cleanly ( meaning the motor will rev up ) never mind the smoke . Driving the diesel truck slowly with out fast acceleration will allow your diesel motor to warm up faster and more evenly. Allowing your diesel truck motor to Idle when cold does not want to warm up at all. The exhaust manifold will warm up faster then the heat and much faster then the block. The best way is to drive the truck as soon as it is running good enough to handle a fast idle and revving. I was a 2 hour commuter to and from work. I always got more the 300,000 miles on all my diesel trucks and diesel cars before the bodies gave out. Idling your diesel motor is KILLING your motor . Incomplete combustion and cylinder wash ( unburnt fuel washing into your crank case) diluting your motor oil..
I can see the regen being more a problem for the Ram because it doesn’t have a 9th injector as the GMC does. Ram’s system adjusts the mixture and/or fuel injection timing to introduce unburned fuel into the exhaust. GMC has a fuel injector between the exhaust manifold and the DPF and injects raw fuel into the exhaust to get that high temp needed for regen.
FYI the weight of the oil is the second number. This is at least true after the engines been running a minute. I think the term would be acts like five weight oil in the winter or 15 but I think it's only for starting but sure the second number is the weight of the oil I now have a 2.8 l Duramax as well as the lmm 6.6 l I'm wondering if I should not have used crankcase additives overdosed both engines seem fine tho,,.
The problem with cam destruction came from switching from solid lifters to hydraulic roller lifters. The oiling isn’t right to those small parts because of the carbon recycling. All the truck engines that have been switched to hydraulic roller lifters have experienced problems.
The silent killer is the government's green new deal crap.
@thomasdearing7718 the f'd up part about the green deal is all of it's "fixes" are worse for the environment then the way things were!
That’s gonna be a fart in the wind come January. Thank goodness.
Egr & DPF
I am a Master Diesel Mechanic. What you are saying is partially correct. The worst thing you can do is let a diesel engine idle. That will cause fuel dilution in the oil very fast. Especially in temperatures below 68°. Start your truck, gently raise the rpm's to 1000 with the accelerator pedal, then let off the accelerator pedal. Wait about 60 seconds, then drive for the next couple of miles SLOWLY. Meaning, accelerate slowly, and don't drive above 45mpg. One thing about a diesel, ANY diesel engine, is they will not get up to operating temperature just idling. I luckily have an 03 ram 3500 dually, high output Cummins Diesel with the aisen 5600 6 speed manual trans. I took my grid heater off. I almost never plug it in, and I've never had a moments trouble with it. I have also from day 1 run Power Service Diesel Fuel Additive in my fuel. White bottle in the winter, silver bottle in the summer.
I also use Hot Shot Stiction Eliminator every other oil change. If anyone has any questions on brand new modern Diesels, or older Diesels. Hit me up. I'm happy to help. One final note. I have right at 30 years turning wrenches on Diesels, so I know my stuff. God Bless you all.
Good video, thanks for sharing with people who don't know these things.
Good info
I add diesel service additive to every other fill up on my 04 Dodge and my 16 ford on the ranch 🇺🇸🤠
I usually warm up my Massey tractor for about 15 minutes at around 1200 rpm to get everything including the hydro moving when it is cold out here at 4600ft high desert.
Would you add Hot Shot Stiction Eliminator to new modern diesels?
I’m thinking about buying a ‘17 L5P with 27k on it. Any suggestions to keep it running top notch or what to do to it when I first get it?
Egr is the silent killer. It’s like smoking 10 packs of cigarettes a day.
Getting rid of it and going to a strictly aftertreatment solution would be a huge step forward.
Idling. Incomplete combustion clogs up the EGR so quickly. I don't idle and drive almost exclusively on the interstate. After 110k miles my EGR had almost no soot.
@@aaron___6014 I was under the impression EGR only happens during partial throttle cruising and not idling or heavy throttle conditions. Idling definitely clogs up the DPF though because that thing is always in the way of the exhaust stream. EGR has a valve and a cooler to try to lessen the damage it does but there is no denying it is terrible for engine longevity. Early emissions engines from the mid to late 2000s and into the early 2010's relied heavily on it to meet the tailpipe sniffer standards and were some of the worst.
@BrandonLeech I've read the EGR valve is open most during low load conditions (light throttle) because NOx formation is higher due to leaner combustion conditions. To lower the NOx production the EGR is opened, which lowers the oxygen content of intake air and lowers peak combustion temps. And partially open during idle. So sounds similar to what you said.
These new diesels are just getting so complicated. Intercoolers that fill with water and ice up, high pressure egrs, EGR coolers that leak, low pressure egrs, cats, DPFs. Crazy.
@BrandonLeech like all things it probably varies depending on the engine.
IT'S CALLED THE "E P A" thats the killer.
@deanjasso174 The EPA is like HIV for trucks.
@deanjasso174 It is the "diesel" that is the killer all by itself.
You could add, “Its CA C.A.R.B.” That’s the killer too….
Yep
You got it. The DPF systems are killing us.
You're exactly correct. No need to apologize for being right. The diesel is the best engine. They don't want us to own them because they last to long.
And get great fuel mileage
2014 Jetta 43-46 mpg
As a former fleet manager we used to get 400, plus out of gassers and 1/4 of the overall cost.
@@Yolbosun My daughter has a 2018 terrain with 1.6L diesel gets over 40mpg and I wand to del all emissions on it has 89k miles never had a mech issue just some emission issues like all the rest of the late model undel diesels
Plus it just uses less oil. MY 2018 328d gets 45+ mpg running 75mph. My footprint will always be smaller than a gas powered vehicle.
Own a 1999 Cummins ISM 11, no emissions. No EGR, no dpf, no cat piss. It even has a drool tube, so no crankcase gas regurgitation. 😊
"Wet stacking" is a potential issue with ANY diesel engine, pre-emission control or current generation. The biggest issue in the current (2007 MY+) diesel is the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) and Exhaust Gas Recirculation. The two systems work at cross purposes. EGR is used to LOWER combustion temperatures to reduce NOx emissions, but lower combustion temperatures INCREASE particulate emissions which then have to be trapped then burned by regens in the DPF. SCR/DEF systems were designed to remove more NOx post-combustion, so that less EGR would be needed to reduce combustion temps in the cylinder. But the SCR/DEF system has its own reliability issues and most engines still require EGR, too. The whole 2007 MY+ diesel emission system regimen is unreliable, expensive, increases fuel consumption, while only achieving relatively modest percentage reductions in diesel emissions from pre-2003-2007 MY diesel engines. The truth is that, for most of the U.S. outside of some metro area with air pollution compliance issues, diesel emission standards should be rolled back to pre-2003 emission standards while retaining modern electronic fuel injection technology. And, yes, diesel engines in vehicles registered and used primarily outside of "non-attainment" air pollution standards areas, should be allowed to have their DEF/SCR, DPF, and EGR components removed from the vehicle by its owner or designated mechanic.
Thanks for the write up. From what I read here, crossed with my own personal experience, you are correct.
And for the record, allowed or not, the DPF and EGR are coming off, full stop. End of story. When they start making my $100k+ truck payments, they can tell me how to run them.
More frequent oil changes never hurt either i do mine every 5000
I have been getting my oil change every 5k miles as well for my truck as well along with fuel filter change in every 15k miles.
I do my oil every 3-4k and my fuel filter every other oil change.
Soot going back into engine causes wear and blackens oil quickly. Soot had a griddy feel to it. I've been changing my oil every 5k miles conventional or 7k max for synthetic. Since weight reduction has happened, oil has stayed cleaner like a gas engine . Idle up to minimize fuel dilution and will up ur oil psi for better lubrication. Make sure to idle engine for 10minutes after long drive and towing before shut down.
@@edt689 I know weight reduction is good but will be troublesome in getting the state inspection sticker.
@@TravNasty520I’m glad I’m not alone, I’m changing oil every 3k due to a lot of traffic. Sadly I don’t think this will help our longevity now due to emissions.
Make DELETES great again!😮
Trumps back in, most likely we'll get that
Lol. My new bestest friend Elonia manufactures electric vehicles but I'm going to help the diesel truck guys. 😂😂😂😂You might want to recheck your math on that equation!@@goprozack4255
@@goprozack4255🙏
@@goprozack4255Well!!! NO 😢
@goprozack4255 hopefully wouldn't that be amazing
Bought my 2022 GMC Denali Duramax for hauling my nearly 13,000lb tow behind camper. It sits in the driveway until it’s needed to pull the trailer or needed to travel country roads during blowing snow. I can better afford to replace my Honda CR-v than a $105,000 diesel truck used as a daily driver.
And yes, I understand not all can afford to do this. It’s a blessing we can.
Me too. Jeep is dd..the 24 Ram sits till we haul tt!!
That's a sad remedy, my old 12 valve will last longer. No computer electronics no anything just diesel. 43 year retired truck driver.
@@frankfitz3421correct. 24v here. Let’s just hope the truck can last as long as the mill. 🇺🇸
Same here. Why commute with a diesel truck when I have a low pollution Honda CR-V sitting next to it. My diesel truck in low mileage and 25 years old. We all have to do our part to keep our planet inhabitable.
You are correct about letting your diesel engine fully warm up.. short trips are horrible on any engine.
But you are dead WRONG about owning a 100,000 vehicle being a blessing!!
Owning a 100,000 vehicle has nothing to do with the Lord or being a blessing.
There was no 100,000 vehicles in the Bible.
Put your treasures in heaven not on Earth...
I change every 4k, no matter the chatter about wasting $$. It is piece of mind-and I'm not hurting anybody!
YES, ITS CHEAP INSURANCE
I own a 2017 Silverado 2500 diesel. From a suggestion from a truck driver, I installed an Amsoil Oil Bypass Filtration kit that has two filters to reduce and remove soot and other contaminants from the oil. I've had it on my truck for about 3 years now. Every 10K miles I get an oil analysis done and the results always come back the same, top off the oil and go another 10k miles. I have changed the oil and both filters at the 20K mark. The bypass oil filter lasts up to 70K miles according to Amsoil, but I'm not going to test that. The kit is rather pricy, but I feel it's worth it.
I did the same thing. Test oil every 10,000 miles. Let the oil tell you when it needs to be changed. Also let’s you know if anything else is happening in your engine.
I have a 2021 2500hd duramax. I use amsoil and amsoil filter Change the oil every 5000 miles. Idc if people say it's a waste truck runs awesome and I have peace of mind I don't understand people who pay a fortune for diesel truck and change oil once a year makes 0 sense
Trying to save a little bit of money on oil is the quickest way to waste a lot of money on repairs.
The EPA is killing your truck not a tuner. My 12v Cummins is almost at a million miles and never had fuel issues lol
Yup, I'll never get rid of m 1995 Dodge with the 6BT
Agreed. The real problem with diesels these days is emmisions crap. Dpf egr vgt chargers, pcv have absolutely destroyed diesel engines. GET RID OF THE DPF EGR ETC. if your truly worried about ur truck reliability INTAKE EXHAUST usbs just aka let it breathe
In my 1999 I slept for 8 hours with the engine running and AC on never had a problem God bless America and Texas semper Fi
Diesel owner for 20years now have a 7.3 godzilla. 2023 with 31k on it and so far so good. Great truck and pulls great. Plus I can buy a lot of gas 87 even for 10+k for todays diesel options.
Love my old DURAMAX 345K ON IT STILL RUNNING STRONG
@@ronaldbertin9455 I have a LB7 over 300K runs great so happy with. 21mpg at one time now like 14 - 16 ??
Xtra cab short bed my first diesel I've worked on 350 Chevy rebuilt carburetor when in high school 40 years ago I still don't know how to adjust a retired the timing and such I hear it's not what people do these days I use my ears to tune cars yes I can still hear. through my lifetime I have taken over a half a dozen cars to be repare shops only to have to fix myself after I get them back mostly vacuum leaks most recent 2013 CTS got it back from an oil change from Brake Masters got home and a vacuum hose was off I really don't know if it was their fault or not but I think they should have found it anyways good luck to you guys that work on your own cars the engines never change as you work on them you'll learn them nothing changes its only mechanical good luck to you guys I recently replaced the radiator on my Duramax after seeing it could be up to 2400$ per internet to have it done I was able to replace it for less than 500 bucks no I did not replace the thermostat or the water pump as talk to multiple friends that asked me why would you change it if it ain't broke after realizing how easy it would be to access them I told myself good question
I'm working on my masters University of TH-cam
Purchased a new 2024 Silverado 3500HD (SRW) in May, 2024. Oil change at 700 miles. Oil analysis by Speediagnostix. Viscosity was good and typical particulates for a new engine. In a couple weeks, another oil change with 3,000 more miles. I'll send a sample for analysis. I also add 12 oz. Diesel Kleen+Cetane Boost with every fill up. This next oil change will show if there is oil dilution. I'll change the oil every 5,000 from now on. Thanks for the video.
Don’t waste your time with Diesel Kleen it’s snake oil. Go with Archoil for a quality fuel additive.
that sounds like a lot of work for owning a diesel.. steering me away from moving forwards with a 2024 F250 6.7, or any diesels for that matter.
I believe your best advise is to change the oil more frequently. I would recommend always using synthetic.
Egr remove it as long as the goverment does on their trucks. i personally don't believe there is any moral dilemma. It's ridiculous to push the unreliability of there bull shit in the consumers especially when they charge 100k for a new truck
I service my own truck. I change my oil @ 6,000 miles. I use Rotella T-6 15w-40 synthetic oil. I also pre-fill the new oil filter, before installing it.
The 6.7 Cummins engine block heater cord is tuck up under front left side of just above tow hook. When facing the front look under the left lower side of bumper. It’s standard on all 6.7 Cummins engines.
I had to install on my 2013. Ran cable to the bumper
I had to install the cord to on my 12. But they all come with the plug in for the cord.
All Cummins come with the heater installed, just not the cord. Cheap and easy to install.
Emissions systems are a killer and fuel formulations don't have the lubricity these fuel systems need. Use high quality oil and change it often and this won't be an issue, if the EGR is gone
I’ve had diesels for over 20 years both old and new. I can tell you one thing for certain do not ever under any circumstance take a diesel over 7000 miles before an oil change. I don’t care what your analysis says. Secondly, you must at every single fill up, put an additive inthirdly use the 10 minute rule. Do not let your diesel idle more than 10 minutes. I’ve had over 20 years of completely problem free driving on both old and modern diesels.
Do you stick to the old school 3k oil change intervals?
@ I do 5000 miles full synthetic on my diesel religiously
What do you do if on interstate and stuck in accident/traffic?
@
Well, obviously if things in life are beyond our control, we have to roll with it. I’m referring mostly to people who just let them idle on job sites or feel like when it’s 35° out there diesel needs to warm up for 20 minutes, what you’re describing is, and I mean as general, best industry standards is to not let them idol.
7,500 with Amsoil HD Diesel & Marine. It has a really high TBN. Best oil money can buy.
the EGR causing the engine to eat its on shit is the killer of diesels.
JB is my go-to for DIESEL NEWS & REVIEWS.
Have never understood why people idle more than what is needed for cooling down (2-4 minutes) Hydraulic lifters only make idling more damaging. When idling you have lower oil pressure. I’m convinced this is the main reason for problems with hydraulic lifters. You need high oil pressure for the oil to reach the top of the engine. Low oil pressure and fuel dilution is a bad combo.
I'm a advocate of minimal idling. That said, a lot of trucks are used vocationally in applications that require the engine to extended idle. A good example are ambulances and fire trucks. In many jurisdictions, ambulance and fire departments are quietly (and, yes, illegally) deleting the emissions systems from their vehicles so that the vehicles do not go into "limp mode" or shut down completely when extended idling during normal and emergency use. In my home county, every ambulance has had its diesel emission system deleted. If I'm having a heart attack, I don't want the responding ambulance delayed or stopped by a plugged DPF.
I am a truck driver, I’m not talking about a pickup, I drive 18 wheelers. The DEF system with the DPF is the biggest problem that we have. Diesel engines were never designed to have a DEF system on them nor were they designed to have a muffler on them. Those two things reduce the efficiency and the power of the engine. I had a one year old Peterbilt and the Diesel Particulate Filter, (DPF), clogged up and had to be replaced. The cost was $9,000. I sure wish they would wake up and allow us to delete the DEF system. I understand that the EPA has determined that the DEF system does nothing to save the environment. I have also heard that the 2025 trucks will not be required to have the DEF system, I’m not sure if that is true but one can only dream.
Your 💯 percent correct, im a former OTR independent trucker , just retired in May of 2023, did 42 years, i sold my last tractor which was a 2019 389 peterbilt, and had issues all the time because of that BS DEF system, with sensors ETC always in the shop, couldn't they that crap anymore,,,,, be safe out there.
I hadn’t heard the 2025’s will be unrestricted. I hope what you said is correct. Maybe they know Trump is for truckers and working folk. Maybe he lifts the BS regulations killing out money makers. Time will tell. 🇺🇸
A lot of people buy a Diesel pickup and drive them around town. They need to be worked on a trip!
Yes, they are meant to work not ride to the mall and back
They should have bought a gasoline engine truck. Diesel engines are not toys they are expensive headaches you don't want unless you actually need one.
do they need a load or just driven a good distance
@@CodyLeon Both ideally. Keeping the motor working harder keeps the cylinder temps up and the soot down. That will help keep an emissions motor running right.
@ just do a run 1 hour highway to get warmed up real good
Excellent video JB! When I hear someone say they're looking for a diesel pickup, once a few questions are asked I often stir them towards a gasser as quite often they don't need the pulling power (or expenses) of a diesel.
GM with their 3.0 duramaxes now do make an egr that filters through the dpf, so the soot doesn't get citculated through the engine. Needles to say, it would be best if none of the crap was on it in the first place.
This is the first time I’ve seen someone else give this fact in the comments. Good job, at least one other person actually understands the 3.0 emissions system. Hopefully trump will gut the EPA, but I think this crap is here to stay…
@@BabyGatorsyea who needs good clean air and water.
I want the 3.0 AT4 and all the talk on emissions hurting the trucks is really making me second guess things
@@CodyLeon only had my AT4 for a month and 2200 miles but easily the best overall truck I’ve driven. I have a buddy with a 2020 LM2 who has 80k and only a dpf failure under warranty. While that sucks, it’s running strong. Plenty of good units but don’t let the handful on the forums get you down on them.
@@hammer-r I'm all for clean air and water. What I'm not for is non-elected regulators setting and enforcing arbitrary limits on emissions without the slightest bit of knowledge or consideration for reality.
I have a 2003 7.3L and a 1986 6.9L and I LOVE AND LOVE them. Hundreds of thousands of miles. I get my oil analyzed, I recommend you do too. It is interesting to read the reports every time.
I too have an 86 F-250 6.9 with a T-19 trans and 360K miles on it. It`s our
daily driver. It`s all mechanical, and just keeps on going. Have had it 10 years.
Bought it with 192K.
Have had Diesels since 10/81when I bought a new Datsun 720 KC Diesel for
$7620. Drove it 30 years and 480K miles. Still have it along with 9 Mercedes Diesels.
The old stuff just runs, and not a lot of maintenance to do on them.
I recommend a Racor Fuel filter with the water/sediment trap. I use the FG500 with a 2 micron on the Ford and the FG200 on the Mercedes and Datsun.
Amazing the crap in the fuel they catch.
Especially with these newer Diesels with the high flutin touchy fuel systems.
I added the FASS EGR solutions kit to my 2024 duramax. Works great and cuts down on regens.
The WORST thing is warming a truck up by idling. The colder the weather the worse this is, use the block heater like you pointed out. After you fire up in the morning, just give it 30 seconds for oil circulation, then put it in gear and head out.
Exactly. Dilution at idle for 15 minutes to warm up or dilution for 2 minutes by starting to drive
That's why I love my 2003 6 ltr.
And my '06 E-350 with the 6.0. Rotella T4 every 5k and all oem filters. I don't dare not to.
Your right. Dpf or cats give engines COPD. The only perscription is more freedom. Maybe oil catch can is good for diesels too. Instead of oil vapor being recycled back into the intake.
This is why like 90% of diesel owners run Shell Rotella T6 oil.
And im including big rig guys.
Interestingly Dani, I have a buddy that maintains a fleet of racing Porch's for the rich and he only uses T6 in all them as well!
@paulpetraitis2130
Ive had a 2001 5.9 Cummins for over 15 years, and bought a 2008 6.7 a few years back for a mile muncher truck to move half way across Canada, I have well over half a million miles between the two, use nothing but Rotella T6, never had a motor issue ever.
Its expensive, like $200 for an oil change with the filter, but worth every penny. I wouldn't run anything else.
Would you recommend Shell Rotella T6 for the "babymax" 4 cylinder 2.8 LWN in the GMC Colorado/Canyon trucks or better to stick with what manufacturer recommends?
@@slyder4life it's honestly great for any motor, Diesel, gas, natural gas, propane, whatever you got.
I run it in my VW GTI VR6, my Honda Seadoo, my Chinese mini excavator, quite literally everything I own.
@@slyder4life I've heard of drag racing guys using it too.
I think the key is it has alot more detergents and natural minerals that aren't found in any other oil, synthetic, dino, all of them.
I rather have the older diesel trucks compared to the new diesel trucks. I had a 97 Ford f250 with the 7.3L power stroke diesel, loved that truck.
Additives like Hot Shots Everyday Diesel helps to reduce soot by better fuel burn, adds lubricity, and cleans. There is a noticeable difference in less regens needed when I’m using it.
I put a high idle kit on my ford 6.7. If I’m going to idle, I idle at 1,000 - 1200 rpm to prevent wet stack. I have 76,000 miles on mine and I have always used Shell Rotella T-6 5w-40 (full synthetic). Recently Ford reprogrammed my computer to regenerate more often and will continue to regen after I crank it again in the event I turn off the engine before a complete regen.
I run 40W in the winter and 50W in the summer (most of the summer is 100F+) for my 1st gen 5.9 Cummins. I monitor oil pressure to monitor dilution - easy to see the drop after a few thousand miles (usually 4K miles) plus engine oil temp.
Thanks for the video info. It really does help especially for first time diesel truck buyer like myself.
Delete the emissions! That’s what I’d did with my Cummins. No DPF filter, No EGR system either. No smog test in my state, so I pass inspections every year.
Good video JB, this issue is not talked about enough! Dealing with this issue on a buddies Ram now, thought he just overfilled since he was up over a quart of oil. I'm thinking leaky injectors? Also I've always used an oil additive Lucas, maybe you should do a review of additives?
It’s not commonly known, that anytime the check engine light goes on, that the entire emissions system shuts down and will NOT Regenerate, causing the DPF filter to completely plug up with in a short amount of time.
I have a 24 F350 Platinum I waited for this model year for the 9th injector on the DPF so it wasn't flooding my engine. I only use Amsoil 5W-30 as i'm in the Adirondacks of NY and change it out @3-3500k 4 gallons is a bummer each time but I reuse it on the mowers. Can't wait to get the Banks stuff on the truck but waiting for it to break in and hope they get the Diff covers done in time! Really want to try the iDash for my EGT. Nice video!
I have several diesel engines… Cummings and Cat … freightliner and Dodge Ram 3500 trucks… the best oil for all diesel engines is Chevron delo 15/40 … during winter season in temps of minus 10 to minus 35 … I switch to Shell rotella 5W 40 full synthetic… once my Ram 3500 hit 100 K and warranty expired, I removed all my pollution systems… my engine runs cooler and got better fuel economy… thank you for sharing your video… cheers
EGR is the #1 thing I deal with our 6.7's. The whole emissions system DOC, DPF and SCR just suck. It adds a lot to the cost of the vehicle. DEF just rots the exhaust pipes.
Get the High Idle switch for your trucks. When you’re going to be at idle for an extended period of time, hit the High Idle switch. They sell it, for a reason.
Most new trucks have them already.
Where do you get a high idle switch. I have a 2019...if that helps. TIA
@ what brand?
I know my ram has an auto high idle in both my 4th and 5th gen
@@downbytheriver501 you can manually put a ram in high idle too
I bought my first duramax 1 year ago. I really enjoy it. I change the oil every 6000. I wish the mileage was better but I can thank Uncle Sam for that.
Just bought my second Ram..but your Jimmy looks mighty fine Bro!!
EGR is the equivalent of just as you need a good clean breath of fresh air to get accelerating in a run you instead have to take breath fart and air.
Almost to 100,000 subscribers, that's awesome. Congratulations!
Def fluid. Saving the planet one plastic jug at a time.
Shipped around the world with diesel lol. F sakes
Most fire departments leave their trucks block heaters plugged in all the time while parked. Even when parked inside. Reason I was told is that there isn’t time to warm them up obviously, and when they leave the hall, it’s foot to floor.
Trucks aren't what they used to be. Reliability gone out the window due to all these EPA mandations. I wanted to buy a diesel for better towing and longevity but hearing of the nightmares between the DEF, EGR, Fuel Pump issues and the cost of 3 gallon oil changes deferred me to buying a diesel, so I ended up going with a 2023 F250 Gasser with the 6.8L STX package and 3.73 gears. However EPA still got their fingers in on my 3/4 ton gasser with the engine idle limiter at 30 minutes. My trim level (XL) doesn't allow you to completely disable the timer. Trucks used to be a solid investment. Now a days its chance we take if we get a good one or bad apple. The prices for these trucks are out of scope. I swear that Displacement on Demand on 1/2 tons and running 5w20 in my 2019 Ram killed that engine at 60,000 Miles. Diesels running DEF, how is burning two fuels better than one. Almost purposely designing vehicles to have to be traded in every three years just to keep something dependable in the driveway. Diesels used to be one of the most reliable engines ever. You get it and understand that there is a bigger problem going on. Good video by the way. I feel for them that have to go thru a 3 gallon oil change more frequently due to this issue.
2 things you mention which apply to me. First…my ‘93 D-250 Cummins does not have a high idle option and (this is much more important) my owners manual specifically states the truck should be plugged in if expected temperatures are 40° or less. I plug mine in at 45° to get safe.
I just turned 290k miles on it (I am the original owners) and I’m just starting to think of an upper end rebuild cuz it’s smoking pretty good now. I change my oil (always have) every 3000 miles.
Of course my truck is too old to have a DPF on it (thank God).
Great Video…thanks!
I have 2004.5 GMC 2500HD 435,000 miles still going strong !
I’m sorry you guys won’t ever see that out y’all’s new ones, It’s sad our government is the reason !
Diesel Tech said to me when I brought my 2015 Ecodiesel for warranty work on the emissions. Change the oil every 5K miles and change the fuel filter every 10K. Use Blue Def fluid and check the date. Never go below half a tank on the Def.
Use Hot Shot’s EDT at every fill up with one ounce for 20 gallons of diesel. Use Hot Shot’s Extreme Diesel every oil change to keep the fuel system clean.
Preventative maintenance. Had I known this from the beginning would’ve saved me having the Def system replaced.
Pretty sure diesel extreme says to use no more than every 15,000 or 12 months? I do a treatment once a year, and use Hot Shots Secret EDT in summer and Howes diesel treat in winter (anti gel)…
I have a 2006 Kodiak LLY Monroe RV Hauler 143000’ just got my first oil analysis done. I use Royal purple 15/40 synthetic I change it every 5000 miles or less. I tow 40 foot fifth wheel in the Northwest and Southwest oil analysis came back great according to Blackstone lab.
I use a K&N air filter, banks aftermarket 20 fin oil cooler no delete everything stock
from the factory, all I can say is do your maintenance
I have a Fass fuel system. I very really let the truck get below half a tank of diesel.
Old trucks rock
Check out Gary‘s Black rock performance and his Kodiak
He has all the specialty gear and knowledge for most older diesel trucks
My 1990 Toyota Land Cruiser…….1-HDT diesel, no EGR, NO DEF, it just runs and runs. Not a huge power output but…….it runs. Great info on fuel dilution. I get an oil analysis done at every oil change.
It's the SCR and DPF systems. That's what kills the engines ultimately. However, the new machining standards, lesser materials, added complexity definitely plays into the issue.
Most people don't even do regular oil level checks on their engine much less actually change their fluids
DPF/ERG/DEF the EPA destroyed diesels.
I was standing behind my Frieghtliner tractor equipped with that shit. Gotta say I didn't smell anything and only felt hot air blowing from the exhaust pipe beneath the cat walk, just saying....
Great video thx. What is your recommended diesel fuel additive? Does that help with fuel dilution?
I've been using Optilube XPD for over 15yrs in my 05 Duramax. Check it out 😎
You might want to consider getting an oil filter bypass. Filters out particulate matter down to about 3-4 microns.
I bought my 05 ram 3500 brand new with 3 MI, it still looks runs and drives as if new.. I waited and bought this model for a reason, 24 valve, electronically controlled and not a mechanical fuel pump type on the 12 V. No emissions whatsoever on my truck. Wouldn't trade it for a brand new one. I'm the only one who does the maintenance. I've had the truck almost 20 years and I'm almost 70 years old and it'll go another 30, when I die my grandson gets it.
I am guessing you live in an area that doesn't spread any salt or calcium on winter roads, or you park the truck for the winter. Anywhere that a vehicle is driven where they spread the crap, that severely shortens the life of vehicles.
@@charlesb4267 so dose lower Michigan gravel roads
Dust control chemicals are worse
@@Yolbosun At one time I believe it was only salt mixed with sand that they used up here but then they started adding percentages of calcium chloride into the mix depending on what they felt the situation called for, however in some key locations I am sure its upwards of close to 100 % calcium chloride that they spread on intersections and certainly on some river hill sections of road. As its said calcium is 9 times more corrosive than salt due to the fact that it sucks the moisture out of the air and rust is able to occur 24/7 as a result. And yes they also use calcium on certain gravel roads for dust control or in front of farmers yards.
I use a fuel additive to help with lubricity if it gets in the oil.
I've used a quality fuel additive in both my diesel trucks for decades. Every fill.
2015 Ram Cummins with over 100K. Still stone cold reliable.
The RAM will also allow the exhaust brake to be engaged during high idle to promote a quicker warm up.
Is this a problem on early 2000s diesels? I have a 2003 GMC 2500 HD diesel and have never had any engine problems. Course it is babied and and not driven a lot anymore since my mare passed away. Only has 109,000 miles and runs really well with a chip in it. This truck is a beast. Sometimes I think I want a new truck, but I’m afraid mine is way more reliable than any new truck, and I don’t have to put that DEF additive in it.
Idling a diesel for extended period has always been a problem even on older engines and in cold weather more so. Cummins started advising customers back in the 70’s about this.
If I were to buy a new truck today, it would not be a diesel!!!....I currently own a 96 Ram 2500 with the Cummins with 160000 miles, and I plan on keeping it til it dies!!
Then rebuild it and keep on trucking
The oil in my 3.0 Duramax is already like water. Hard to imagine the oil can get thinner than a 0w20.
I am a marine diesel engineer for 18 years and the biggest problem with engine oil is to keep the
TBM's within the desired limit. We never use multi-grade oil---only SAE 40 (in Akasaka DH40 2500) engine. The gen-sets were GM 8V70's who were notorious for burning lube oil because they were never loaded up enough to get complete combustion and hot,
The biggest killer of these engines is following the manufacturer oil change intervals
Ram will let you go 15000 miles I have 2 of these trucks and they get oil change every 5000 miles and fuel filters every 10000 miles
And I don’t have any issues
Exactly! On my new Ram 2024 Cummins I will change the oil every 6 months period. Took it in for oil change recently and dealer said it's way early before the 15k miles mark and said I don't care let's change it.
Don't forget the transmission!
Next just replace that stock grid heater
That light with the water drops and fuel pump means you’ve got water in the fuel. FYI
The orange fuel light on the dash is for water in the fuel. When it’s cold a timer counts down until the heater is hot enough to start the engine.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but block heaters only heat up the coolant, not the oil. You can, however, get a magnetic oil heater and attach it to the oil pan.
White smoke isn’t unburned fuel. White smoke is either oil or coolant. Black smoke is unburned fuel. I also run a bypass filter on my oil system. The inside of my 2010 Cummins is squeaky clean.
Idling and city driving. Get the cylinder temps up as fast as possible. Idle warmups take forever on a diesel.
This right here is why I went with the 6.4 Hemi in my ram 2500. I don’t have to do or worry about any of this. Regular oil changes, spark plug changes and don’t idle my truck and I’m good to go.
@@wizzle0979 dose it pull
Even gas trucks have problems but not as bad. It’s almost like you have to change your oil at 3,000 miles again.
That’s what I’m doing.
I've certainly been getting that impression, the direct injection gasoline engines have that issue of oil dilution occurring when first started before they warm up enough for a proper combustion to occur. Which also points to making use of the block heater although I think on a lot of gas engines for a number of years now they have an idiotic temp sensor within the cord that doesn't allow the block heater to come on until its quite cold out. But the long and short is, its going to do your engine a favour by changing the oil a lot more frequently than what the manufacturer claims to meet the warranty ... they do not give a crap what happens after the warranty runs out, in fact they want to sell you a new vehicle and "give" them your old one.
Get a “BlueDriver” device that shows when your catalyst is getting ready to regen. Not sure if the new trucks show this, but my 2018 f350 doesn’t. You can also monitor many temps on your truck.
Fuel dilution of the oil due to extended idle time was an issue when I was a fleet manager before pollution controls in the late 80s early 90s. We shortened our service intervals during the winter to help combat this issue.
I used to plug my truck in all the time. 3500 Cummins Regular Cab Wrecker with Manual and 4x4. I also used to use Rotella which is primarily made for diesel engines. I would idle a lot in and around Philadelphia so I would change my oil regularly more than the normal diesel owners. Mine was a 94 first gen which are the best and I drove it conservatively. No Poppers or Illegals, mainly Copart and breakdowns and Gas and Electric Companies for the City. Gale Banks makes the best diesel parts for the money. 🙏
Same as the 10 speed transmission. To operate properly. I have found out. Starting at 100F. No problems shifting. My new van. Gas engine. Same thing with the transmission. I let it warm up to the first temperature mark before moving. No problems. Gas ones don't like the cold as well. Thanks.
So what do you recommend I run in my 2023 Ram 3500 high output Diesel with asin transmission Motor oil what we would work the best? by the way that’s one of the best looking GMC trucks I’ve seen I love that color the combination I really like that truck👍👍
Long oil change intervals causes a lot of problems. There’s always going to be just bad parts and fluke things that happen but any direct injected engine needs more frequent oil changes.
I don’t understand the pushback from guys on this either. It’s literally the cheapest maintenance item you can do and people want to wait 7,500-10,000 miles to do it. That’s crazy.
It's happening on the newer gas cars with direct injection and people who do a lot of short trips.
The gm block heater on the LP5 doesnt turn on unless its 0 F according to the manual so not much point in plugging it in above that
Good video. Very informative. I have a 2018 Ram 6.7 l cummins. I change my oil every year or 5k mi. Which ever comes 1st.
2003 no nasty things on it I have 650 thousand miles on it only one set of injectors put in it at 350 thousand miles 5.9 Cummins keep the oil changed and I use mobile one 15/40 synthetic and wix filter and it is running good
that's not the only one! I know how it is with American vehicles but I drive and maintain a VW Amarok as a mechanic and it says in my maintenance manual that it is a Euro 4 (so without DPF) and a Euro 5. And hold on! To meet environmental standards, the engineers have turned down the oil pressure! Euro 4 is still 1.2 bar minimum pressure and 5 bar maximum pressure, which I knew during my training in the 80s. WITH EUR 5 IT IS 0.6 MINIMUM AND 2.8 MAXIMUM PRESSURE. The oil pumps simply provide less pressure because the engine can then run more economically. That combined with what you say (which I agree with) long oil intervals, the diesel that drips into the oil pan during regeneration of the DPF filter, poor viscosity, it is simply SCANDALOUS!! My amarok gets 5w30 synt every 7500 km to get a longer life out of my truck (hopefully). I hope as many people as possible read your video and my comment
I have to travel 84 round trip to work and back. It helps with frequent regeneration.
I called it right warmer it is more efficient it is .
Weather right now fluctuates 28 in morning to 65 in late afternoon
This is why a lot of
Guys run hotshots and archoil 6400/6500 but I’m going the big dually gasser I’m
Not dealing with that all especially since I’m
Not towing much but I’ll get max payload for when I do pull my boat and other toys. It’s just to much work/nonsense nowadays lol
I have been driving Diesel pickup trucks since the first Square body Mitsubishi 235 cu.in. ( I think ) and I was schooled by Diesel mechanics then you NEVER idle your diesel motor in cold OR warm weather . The only and best way to warm your diesel truck is sever cold weather is to drive it as soon as you can get it to rev cleanly ( meaning the motor will rev up ) never mind the smoke . Driving the diesel truck slowly with out fast acceleration will allow your diesel motor to warm up faster and more evenly. Allowing your diesel truck motor to Idle when cold does not want to warm up at all. The exhaust manifold will warm up faster then the heat and much faster then the block. The best way is to drive the truck as soon as it is running good enough to handle a fast idle and revving. I was a 2 hour commuter to and from work. I always got more the 300,000 miles on all my diesel trucks and diesel cars before the bodies gave out. Idling your diesel motor is KILLING your motor . Incomplete combustion and cylinder wash ( unburnt fuel washing into your crank case) diluting your motor oil..
I just tried the fast idle/cruise control n my 22 Ram. Works just like my 06 Peterbilt. Dam,I learned something at 5 30 in the morning.
I can see the regen being more a problem for the Ram because it doesn’t have a 9th injector as the GMC does. Ram’s system adjusts the mixture and/or fuel injection timing to introduce unburned fuel into the exhaust. GMC has a fuel injector between the exhaust manifold and the DPF and injects raw fuel into the exhaust to get that high temp needed for regen.
FYI the weight of the oil is the second number. This is at least true after the engines been running a minute. I think the term would be acts like five weight oil in the winter or 15 but I think it's only for starting but sure the second number is the weight of the oil I now have a 2.8 l Duramax as well as the lmm 6.6 l
I'm wondering if I should not have used crankcase additives overdosed both engines seem fine tho,,.
The problem with cam destruction came from switching from solid lifters to hydraulic roller lifters. The oiling isn’t right to those small parts because of the carbon recycling. All the truck engines that have been switched to hydraulic roller lifters have experienced problems.
Extended oil change intervals are major factor contributing to crancase oil dilution , along with prolonged idling .
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