Biggest killer of the diesel engine is the government emissions crap. Sucking all of that EGR back into the engine adds to the oil degrading. Once deleted 10k mile oil changes are okay and oil analysis will look good at that point.
I regularly send oil into blackstone for analysis. I have a 2019 f450 with 102k on it and they regularly say the oil will be fine for 10k. I still don’t run it past 8k generally, but they say the oil is still fine and I can go longer. Also I’ve never had problems with emission equipment. The hotshots are running them to 4-500k without issue and have to have emissions intact.
A certified diesel tech with hundreds of diesel motor repairs under his belt.. once and for all, 15,000 mile oil intervals are NOT GOOD! , stop defending them because your cheap! GREAT VIDEO
You’re* And there’s nothing wrong with 15k intervals when using quality oil and filters. Done it for years on all of my diesels. Zero issues ever out of any of them, ranging from 115°F to -50°F.
@@CornFed_3 you are an idiot. I have done multiple thousand engine replacements bc of dirty oil damaging engine systems. 150 dollars for an oil change or upwards of 15k for a new engine. It's pretty simple to me, I'll take the oil change. Stay in your lane bub.
600000 miles on my 7.3 and change every 1 quart drop which is between 12 and 18000 miles still runs great and oil is almost always clean. 3 trans and 3 water pumps and normal maintance. Lubes every 2-3 months. Same as my semis
Ford is putting a gasoline particulate filter (GPF) on their new 25 mavericks. Due to the EPA’s new strict emissions standards. Iam sure all the other big manufacturers will follow suit. Just put what I just wrote in TH-cam and many videos will come up on the topic.
I think EGR is worse than DPF. Lastly SCR is the least killer. Not saying DPF isn’t bad, but EGR dumping particulates back into your intake is worse than driving around the desert with no air filter.
That's what is in the owners manual and recommended buy navistar and its due to the antifoaming agents in the oil that is needed for the HUEI injectors to operate correctly. The anti foaming agents usually go before the oil itself is done. You can't compare and 30 year + old designed diesel that is all cast iron block and heads to the new power plants.
I remember when I was younger and helped farm, when we were mold board plowing for hours at a time, when we quit at night we would park up, let it idle at around 1000rpm for about 5 minutes. Pull the idle all the way down, wait a minute or two then shut it down. Taught a long time ago about cool down. No matter what you were doing. Great video.
Here in Australia I drive a 2.8 litre desiel Toyota hilux 4x4 and I do everything you say to do except cold morning warm up because we don't get those real cold mornings. Have a nice day over there in America you all
HEUI engines are by nature harder on the oil. It was a very versatile fuel system for It's time, but common rail overcame those obstacles. Common rail also brought us more fuel related failures on diesels unfortunately.
@@ChevyConQueso I worked for Bosch and started the very first common rail engine in the US down in Indiana. The system was very robust but required clean fuel. The downfall was when companies wanted to cut costs and started to reduce the quality of the parts being used.
I live in Florida and yes, I idol my truck Since I heard Dave, I don’t even watch his videos anymore lol I got 430,000 miles on GMC and so far never been to the dealer for engine or transmission.
Could you do a long video, or maybe a playlist, on Diesel 101 for new diesel owners? I found this information extremely helpful as someone who has never owned a diesel but is interested in buying one. Basically a detailed walkthrough of diesel engine basics, how all the parts of the exhaust system work, how to properly operate your vehicle from cold start to shut off (when towing and not towing), things people should be aware of when switching from gas to diesel, what to look for when buying diesel fuel and DEF, 101 on glow plugs and grid heaters and how they work. What things to do differently in cold vs hot climates (and what those temp ranges are). Essentially a crash course on owning a diesel engine for gas engine owners so they are prepared as they can be so they get the longest life out of their truck, plus any tips and tricks you’ve learned that you think new diesel owners should know. I’ve had a 2019 1500 5.7 for 3yrs and I’d like to step into the diesel world but I want to be as prepared as I can be before actually owning the truck. If you could also do a video on things to know when upgrading from light duty to heavy duty trucks and what all changes when you upgrade from light duty to HD, that would greatly appreciated too.
I have an 01’ Cummins that I bought brand new. I always change it at 5,000 miles. Truck still runs and performs like new. I’ll never get rid of that truck because it has never let me down. Never left me stranded. And never been in a repair shop for anything. 👊🏻
2006 5.9 Fleetguard synthetic filters, Valvoline blue, get rid of that junky stock air filter and put a cold air intake like s&n or banks and let that cummins breathe
I’d be mainly doing short trips, so I’m not sure I’d be comfortable with going to 5K. I think I would invest in some oil analysis tests too. Those rigs are just so expensive.
My ‘15 Silverado 3500 is telling me it needs servicing, check owner’s manual now. I haven’t owned it quite a year and this is my first diesel. I’m currently limited to 55 MPH Before I find a private diesel mechanic, any idea what I should expect the problem to be? Hasn’t been deleted as far as I can tell. I love the truck otherwise, but not impressed with how it can leave me stranded, so I’m learning. Thanks in advance!
@homemprovmentguy if your limited to 55 it's more than likely an aftertreatement issue. How's your Def level ? Did it freeze ? When was the last regen ?
@ I’m admittedly completely ignorant with this truck. It began limiting me at 65 mph. I don’t know how to check the DEF level. I know it displays but I haven’t watched it because I was curious what happens when it gets low. How would I know if it froze? I am in New Hampshire. I added a gallon of def when I first bought it. I don’t use the truck often, mostly use my work truck. I was planning to add another gallon of def tomorrow to see what happens. What is this regen I’ve been seeing mentioned? Thanks again!
I agree with good servicing practices 👍 I have run diesels for many years now . think one important factor that people should take into consideration when purchasing a vehicle is how you are planning to use it if you only use it for short runs or hauls . Maybe consider a gasoline engine they warm up faster than a diesel and have less carbon issues . A diesel likes to run at operating temperature under load at modest RPM for extended periods, especially all day long, that help them to perform well in the long haul .
I have a 5EK cat with over 1 million miles and with a bypass filter system I have run up to 80k miles and the oil test ok. My engine uses about 1 gal per 4k miles which replenishes additives enough that I don't have to change my oil but only the filters.
I was doing 4-4500 mile changes on my 06 Cummins, oil samples were great, one time I tried a 8500 mile and oil analysis came back still good and they told me to try 10,000 mile. For no reason other than it doesn’t feel right and I can afford it, I’m doing 4-4500 mile changes. So there goes your theory on seeing the difference. Maybe these new rigs are different.
While I agree with the warm up philosophy , and sane oil change intervals, I would posit that the #1 killer of modern diesels is EGR. Followed closely by PCV combining with the EGR soot. That's a nice feature on those Rams, cruise button steps up the idle. Wish my Ford had that.
I work at Walmart in the Auto Care Center. In my store, we do a good number of diesel oil changes because we're in the oil patch. About 12 or 13 years ago, a guy brought his brand new Ram 2500 Diesel in for it's first oil change................at 40,000 miles. His truck was provided to him by the company he worked for and he had never run a diesel before. He knew it was a long time but didn't understand what the problems were with not changing oil much more consistently. I did the lower side of the oil change and when I cracked open the drain plug, what came out no longer could be justifyably called oil. It was more like carbon in a liquid suspension. Of course I got some of it on my hand and I had to get out of the lower bay and go wash my hand because I couldn't hold onto the tools. After the oil change was done, I advised the customer he should consider doing a very short oil change interval for the next few oil changes, like no more than 2000 miles each oil change and hope for the best.
I do oil testing so I have some science about my oil change intervals. 5,000 miles is good, but the oil has plenty of life and low contaminants present. I think a more ideal mileage is between 7,500 to 10,000 miles depending how hard the motor gets worked. At this point contaminants including fuel dilution are beginning to rise to moderate levels. By 12,500 miles my truck had nearly 5% fuel dilution, mildly degraded base number, and moderate copper and potassium levels. Bottom line is you are absolutely correct. 15,000 mile oil change intervals are way too long.
Almost all my diesel engines have a pre heater plumbed into the coolant system, with a remote control , and a pre lube system, a must for cold weather regions 😊
I've watched numerous videos like these. This one has a lot of good advice. That said, few videos fully address the issue of idling a 2007+ MY vehicle to warm the engine. It is this: a diesel that is not at operating temperature is producing high quantities of particulates until it reaches operating temperature. Those particulates will go into the DPF, where it will eventually have to be burned off. On my Ford 6.7 Super Duty, the engine idling at operating temperature would fill the DPF at a rate of 5%-10% per hour, but would fill the DPF up to triple that rate at below operating temperature. Knowing this, my regimen in cold weather was to start the engine and, once the oil pressure was up, elevate the idle (I installed an elevated idle control--EIC--that would elevate the idle to 1,200 RPM on command) long enough to get the engine to about 100° F. temperature, then drive the truck at moderate RPM and load until the engine reached full operating temperature. At outside ambient temperatures below around 10°-15° F., I would use the block heater, though I found the block heater running all the time was not generally necessary in all but frigid temperatures--I had my block heater on a timer that would start it about 4 hours before I planned to drive the truck. Unless it was absolutely necessary, I would never extended idle the truck (for more than, say, 10-15 minutes); if I idled it for any longer than that, I would elevate the idle using the EIC. 2007+ MY diesel vehicles are just not fit to use as a short-trip grocery getter--that is just asking for emission system and engine problems. When I no longer needed my diesel Super Duty to use vocationally where it would usually run on longer trips, I traded it for a gasoline truck. I've owned and been around diesels for about a half-century and love them, but the modern emission control systems have made them expensive, often unreliable, and impractical for many uses. I still have a pre-2007 diesel vehicle that doesn't have all the emission system issues.
As an owner operator and business owner. I never ever excessively idle my Ram fleet. I also made a point. Between hauls if they were ever used for a short trip. I would routinely take them out on drives to do passive regen to clear the dpf. The rams have an automatic idle increase, even on my 2017, to help get up to operating temps faster. And the exhaust brake comes on automatically till oil temp reqcehes 160 F. For most starts, 30 seconds to a minute is the bare minimum id wait before moving, and then it's just low rpms and mild speeds until warm is done. Never let it idle for more than 10 minutes on warm-up. My percentage of idle in total operating hours is usually 10% to 20% of running hours.
@@danielmorris-ruckett913 if you're running gauges, you might be surprised at how hard it is to actually obtain a passive regen. Sustaining 900 F post DPF takes some long pulls on hills with a windsail behind the truck.
Your info videos are in the top tier in all of you tube. Your easy going matter of fact demeanor grabs the viewers attention. I really appreciate your Journeyman level of expertise and knowledge...keep the vids coming. Oh and you and JB make a good team! Happy Holidays Sir!!
When you spend $90,000 for a new diesel it’s penny wise and pound foolish not to change the oil at 5,000 miles or less. Excellent advice on not idling unnecessarily, but doing a couple of minutes of cool down idle, after driving, to protect the turbo.
So much truth here! Great video and many thanks for making it. I have alway ignored the ridiculously high roccomended oil change intervals on my Land Rover and since new the oil has been changed every 10,000km and more often if I am towing. Another tip is even after a few minutes of warming up don't push the engine hard when cold. Keep the acceleration and speeds down until full operating temperature has been reached.
I agree with you 1000% I never go more than a max of 5000 miles on oil changes. It's easy to learn to do this service for oneself to save if that's a big issue. Oil changes are very cheap compared to the price of the vehicle and potential repairs.
When approaching from the POV of fuel and oil filters, it looks WAY expensive, but in fact, the oil filters are pretty cheap for modern trucks (less than 20 bucks). Am currently toying with idea of changing oil a day before changing the oil so as to help flush the trucks innards a bit better. It appears inarguable 10k miles for an oil change (per mfr) is just dumb.
@@MindFusion-ij1xlChanging oil twice is throwing money away. Every 5K is enough. Look into bypass filtration before you do that. Big trucks run centrifuges. Some folks do on pickups, but usually it's bypass filters.
@@ChevyConQueso Count not agree more, however, since I followed manual and changed at 10k, the oil looks WAY sootier than expected, did idle a lot, so thought a one-time oil change where cheap oil is run for perhaps an hour gives the expensive, synthetic, stuff a cleaner... crankcase and system... to do its job. Thanks for the insights.
Good intell. Our small fleet of small diesels seem to be rolling down the road fine, 5K max- on fresh oil, decent warm up-cool down. Has been successful the past couple decades.
I am still old school mechanic and don’t even look at mileage. I go by hours which Cummins use to be around 400 hours. The only way you can include idling time as well as traveling.
That’s how we do industrial equipment. Typically manufacturers have different thresholds but typically 500-600 hours same for PMs, most fluids other than engine oil is annual
@@gunztommiegunz I started out on the smaller stuff but ended up mostly working on bigger stuff. I did a lot of major modifications on smaller stuff and would’ve loved to have only done that stuff.
i’ve got 250,000 miles on my 2011 6.7 cummins. had it since brand new, and i’ve been religious about oil changes, fuel filter changers, tire rotations and switching out the CCV!! 5500 miles is the sweet spot for me and i’ve never had any issues! still got the OG 68rfe too, no problems at all
*As someone who loves keeping my diesel running strong, this info is a lifesaver. Thanks for breaking it down like a pro-time to show my engine some extra love! 🔧*
I can't begin to thank you for this video...... just subbed and share.......looking forward to next video. No nonsense.....but a totally respectful gentleman! SEMPER-FI ...... 🇺🇸
You said something that on the farm with our big diesels, after say 10 hours of work in the field we'd let it cool at idle for a bit, not long but let spool down. Also good time to losten to see if everything sounds right and runs right. Big point, not talked about much at all, maybe it's more important for big diesels.
I just turned 220,000 on my 2006 duramax. I run 15 to 20 k oil changes,with filter change at 5000, but i also run a frantz bypass filter and pull an oil sample every 5,000 miles for a full workup. which includes tbn,coolant,fuel, and wear metals. I have been running shell rottela t6 since it came out in the 15w40 variety in northern wisconsin year round. Truck has had injectors replaced and head gaskets done at 132,000 only because the dealer broke a glow plug off in the head. The tech said the motor was too clean to have that many miles on it. I told him what i was running and doing, and he said, "Keep doing it"
Buddy you seem to be spending a lot of money trying to save a lil bit. Around about 5k oil change and pm service. Never done an oil analysis kind of don’t see the point either. Just don’t abuse the equipment also trucks break down especially work trucks that run everyday.
Thanks for the very informative video. I bought a new GMC 3500 dually diesel in 2020. I also bought a lifetime oil change package that the dealership offered. I must say that it‘s paid for it‘s self. I drive from Portland OR to Canton OH every year..sometimes multiple trips. An oil change before I leave and another in Ohio for the return trip(I pay for this one). Dealer says my truck purrs like a kitten and is always offering to buy it back from me. Great info on the warm-up tips. I‘ll start plugging my truck in….Cheers
Thank you I have a 30 Duramax engine and what I have been doing is just starting up leaving it out I did not realize do IO higher how much you appreciate everything teacher sir very happy with watching your videos thank you so much God bless you and your family and Merry Christmas to you
I stumbled on your video and I have to say you are spot on. I'm a heavy diesel mechanic and been doing it for years also worked at a dealership as a diesel mechanic. Every time we drop the oil on a semi or heavy equipment we take an oil sample for that reason of contamination and dilution. I see more engine failures due to that fact. I think oil samples are important to see what you engine is doing also cutting open you oil filter and inspecting the element and not just waiting for engine failure to do these things. Good video
@GreggWalken-xd3qv and doesn't understand what makes proper lubrication. He may be a great tech but in prior videos explained his understanding of tribology and it was completely false, his understanding of chemistry is completely off base, and to contradict his current advice he showed a torn down Hemi which was nearly spotless but failed because it is a Hemi. Not a lubricant issue. If one wants repair advice definitely follow what he says. If one wants to understand lubrication and chemistry definitely do not follow his advice.
Awesome information as always. I change the oil in my 6.7 every 5k miles and fuel filters as well. My peterbilt gets oil and fuel at 10k on the X15. Maintenance is the number one thing to keeping a working engine.
I totally agree. EGR and subsequent emissions related equipment is an example of governmental overreach and science quackery. EGR’s only design is to lower exhaust gas temperature so that Nox gas is reduced (a byproduct of high temp fuel combustion), BUT lower exhaust gas temps increase soot and particulates in diesel engines, so, a particulate filter is added to catch soot. As this video shows, this dirty EGR exhaust stream is rerouted back into your inlet cooler, and turbo before reentering the engine which makes a mess and will have to be addressed at some point. When the particulate filter starts getting clogged, it must be cleaned by injecting diesel fuel from your tank into the filter to raise temps high enough to burn off soot and particulates (regen mode). This is the reason for the fluted, eduction exhaust coolers on the tips of the tail pipes; to prevent fires from the high temps during regeneration. Then, to add further complexity, BlueDEF systems are used to reduce exhaust emissions to some agreed to standards. BTW, DEF fluid is just distilled water and urea (nitrogen), which is a wonderful and cheap fertilizer for your lawn and garden needs….The mechanics and chemistry of DEF systems for diesel engines are solid, I am just not sure if they will work in the absence of EGR systems knowing how they are all intrinsically connected.
The root of all problems Oil. Power. Fuel economy. Abrasive cylinder wear leads to blowby oil consumption I use water methanol injection Have lower exhaust temps than with EGR Morning power Better economy 6.7 Cummins 9.8 litre per 100 Ks 😅 hiway
I’m with you on the 5k intervals, i actually do like 3500 on my 06 5.9. And I get it to temp and then let it drain for 20-30 min then pour a new sacrificial quart down its gullet and let that all drain out before I add new
My Ford 6.7 says on the dash when its 5k miles change oil and I do. I live in Florida and idle for a few minutes, double it in the winter. My first five minutes of driving I take it easy because of where I live is remote and i dont have to get up to speed in a hurry. I hope thats fine.
Having had issues in the past with mechanics overfilling oil & coolant reservoirs which lead to various engine seals being compromised…it would be great to hear someone speak with authority about the effects of increasing pressure does to an engine.
Great video man I got a 2020 6.7 limited, it’s a great truck for the most part but I tell you what nothing is more frustrating than coming home after a long trip and when you’re opening the gate you hear the truck idle up an does a active regen 1/4 mile from the house, I don’t shut it down I go for another lap back up the mountain then everything’s all happy again.
Good information with the video. I'll ask about turning on the exhaust brake during warmup. Is that still recommended? Another thing that kills engine oil is short driving trips such as a few miles to the store or work. If the engine and the oil doesn't get hot enough the contaminants don't burn or evaporate out of the oil. I don't drive my Diesel pickup during the winter unless I know it will be driven far enough to get hot enough for the oil, exhaust system, and a good engine warm up. I do have my block heater plugged in to a timer that is set up to turn on about 4 hours before starting and that definitely helps warm up faster. Keep the videos coming Josh.
My Q7 has a built in Webasto heater which helps a lot in winter. Engine can be pre-warmed and the heater will kick in anyway if temp outside is below 10 deg C. Very nice feature.
As a result of your guidance (including your other videos) I tried "DRIVING IT LIKE I STOLE IT" for test purposes! GUESS WHAT! My plugged DPF, so unwilling to go into regen, WENT INTO REGEN before I got to the freeway, before it was warmed up, within four blocks of the house! I KNOW that is contradictory... however! All I had to do was MASH THAT THROTTLE a few times at stop signs, slow down, and (I estimate) the difference in back pressure, never seen because I drive to maximize fuel economy hauling or not, was sufficient to cause a ALMOST NEVER SEEN regen. I conclude (and invite your analysis) IF YOUR TRUCK IS BABIED TOO MUCH IT WON'T GO INTO REGEN. DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT (like a drunk teenager, I guess) every so often to initiate a regen! Do you have ANY idea how relieved I am? Drove 40 miles, and it completed regen, DPF is at zero percent. Thanks, thanks a LOT.
I have a 2015 half ton Eco Diesel. Bought new has 150,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 8-10,000 miles. I have the oil analysis done 3 times a year. At the 150,000 mile check it was rated as one of the best results they have seen for an Eco.
Always: 1. 5W-40 regardless of climate. Covered on both ends of the temp range 2. 2 - 3 minute idle warm ups or else it's just cooling down and wet stacking. 3. 10,000 mile oil changes is perfectly fine if you do the above 2
Great information but i think after a hard tow or driving a interstate speeds you need to idle for at least 5 minutes before shutting down i service a fleet of w900 kenworths w ith c15 cats they came with factory installed twist dial style kitchen timer idle switch they recommended at least 7 to 10 minutes of idle before shutdown all turbos spin 186000 rpms they get really hot!! Merry Christmas to all!!!
In general i have to say, great advice! Considerable comments. I just like to mention that a 15k miles oil change for me driving 50/80 miles at a time versus a hotshot driver is a world of difference. Heat cycles, warm ups........
I have a 2016 and my friend has a 2021 cummins. I find it odd that both our trucks have 15 k oil change intervals but my 16 is 6 months and the 21 is 12 months. I believe that should be the other way around because of the hydraulic lifters in the 21. I change my oil every 6 months usually between 7k-8k miles. My truck doesn't take short trips and is used to tow 15k pound camper. I do believe 15k intervals are fine for people that hot shot as they may put 15k on their truck in a few months and are working the engines. But I agree if you use it as a grocery getter than 5 k is probably a good rule of thumb. Also I rarely use the high idle. The truck will high idle itself after running for a minute or two so I just let the ECM decide what's best for the truck.
Great video! Only thing I would do differently is let the high idle do its own thing to avoid thermal shock to the head causing possible fracture issues. I plug my truck in every chance I get to avoid the high idle kicking in at turn key when I get to negative temperatures (Celsius). I also let mine cool down habitually. Especially when towing. 2-3 minutes warm up in cold temps, drive it gingerly for a couple minutes then normal operation. Always give it a Ferrari stopping every drive to burn off soot. This is a very knowledgeable tech. He should be training the entire Ram fleet of diesel techs.
I own a fleet of CumminsISX semi trucks. I’ve never changed oil before 20k miles on any of the 8 trucks. One truck has over a million miles and just now due for an overhaul. No issues. 5k mile oil change interval in a common rail is dumb AF and a waste of money.
Your ISX is likely sitting next to a centrifugal oil filter on the frame rail. Those things flat out work, and they're full of carbon sludge when you clean them. I'm going to be putting a small one on my 12 valve, because it can't hurt and I have the space underhood for it. These modern pickup diesels are a nightmare due to most being driven around as big cars 90%+ of the time, and are equipped with less than durable emissions components, so I fully understand the fear people have of repair bills. It really is criminal what the EPA has saddled them with. The guys saying they change oil at 3K leave me shaking my head. I'd run a bypass filter before changing oil at 5K miles. They are cheap and effective at pulling soot. Fleetguard even makes standard size filters with a bypass built into them. Oil analysis is your friend as well.
I truly enjoy videos like this. I don't have a truck nor a diesel engine. But the last 3 cars I've owned have been turbo engines. I live in New York, winters can be cold. I let the car idle for 2 to 3 minutes upon start up and then I begin to drive at a slow moderate pace because to me the engine is still warming but I'm not overdoing it. Then when I'm ready to shut the car off.... I actually let the car sit for about 30 seconds and then I shut it off. I like my cars to last and I definitely do 5000 mile oil changes. The 10000 mile recommendation is way too long.
In the older days, with our big trucks with Cats, my old man was adamant about 10K oil change intervals, and that was before EGR. Cat was onto something with pulling EGR after the DPF, which they called CGI, so at least there was a chance of dumping somewhat cleaner Exhaust Gasses back into the combustion cycle. Are any of the big-3 doing that with their EGR setups on the diesel pickups?
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience with us diesel owners. I change the oil in my F350 every 3000 miles. It will last the rest of my life. 😊
I have 2 diesels… I bought both brand new. A 1984 GMC K2500 6.2 4x4 and a 2009 GMC 1-ton Duramax. I use Amsoil synthetic oil… change it at 10,000 miles in the Duramax and annually in the 6.2. With every oil change, I get a complete lab analysis of the used oil.
When I purchased my 12 Ram Laramie Cummins the used dealership said I don't need to change the oil right away! I said I didn't Care it's black I didn't do it, I don't know what they used!. I purchased it to tow a 5R when towing I changed the oil every 3000 ! When not towing it's every 3k to 5k , I only use Shell T6 , I keep it in a garage during the winter I will not start it when it's below 32°f unless it's been plugged in overnight. People say I'm taking it too far? I don't think so it's a 12 with 150k on it , it's valuable, and I have a 01 GMC Yukon with 365000 on it that still runs like new ! I'm doing something right. The GMC only gets Mobile 1. And since I purchased the Truck in Tennessee unfortunately the wire for the block heater was not installed so I had to install one when moving to the Michigan UP it gets cold very cold and 300" of snow annually.😮😂 Future deleting is something I won't talk about I'm waiting to see what happens to the EPA.
@ Yep. I’ve been able to keep it clean looking for a week at the most. I installed my own auxiliary cooler and oil filter that works off of a thermostat just for peace of mind.
Great video, As a mechanic this certainly helps both on the preventative maintenance side of things and helps pin point problems. You had some good turbo habits for those expensive turbos and of course wisdom on oil; the dos and don'ts. Thanks for your time and effort you put into this video.
What is your opinion on the service interval for the ZF 8 transmission. The dealer says lifetime service. ZF says 60k. I’m a retired lifelong dealership master trans tech and in my opinion, lifetime service is a marketing ploy
Dealer says fill for life. ZF says 60K. I service mine every 60k. I don’t agree with everything the dealer/ owners manual says. And I work for the company lol
I have owned 5 diesels in my life a 6.2,6.5, two 7.3 and a 6.0 always changed my oil at 5000 miles and fuel filters at 10000 miles and ran a fuel additive never had a problem. I personally would not buy a new one they are to expensive and used one because most people don’t do maintenance the way they should
Im a company driver of Carhauler, we using RAM 3500 Cummins, I wanted to add something about cold start routine, before to start the engine I also press start button twice before to touch the brake and start it, I believe this primes the fuel system after sitting and I noticed that it’s actually starts better (less cranks) just something to consider..
The whole trouble is with the whole industry is nobody wants to do correct maintenance on these big diesel. They think they run by themselves forever and they don’t. It takes meticulous maintenance proper warm-up. I think he gave a very concise detailed video. Congratulations for somebody. That’s out in the field and knows what to do.!!’🎉 especially somebody is out in the field in a dirty environment. Dirt roads, mud a lot of dust you have to change that oil do the proper maintenance. Very concise video. Very very concise. I like it show more specially for the big V8. Thank you.
Your oil is naturally going to blacken due to the Sulphur being removed from the diesel fuel. All my O/O trucking career I've owned cat's" and learned that BACK PRESSURE is one of the biggest diesel engine killers" that's another reason cat discontinued building truck engines in 2010. Because cat's won't run on those joke's called regene exhaust systems.
This helps alot! Being a new diesel owner myself I have nothing but questions. Biggest being idle times and warmup. You would think though given what these trucks are priced at they would include the damn block heater cable.
2003 Cummins 5.9, change religiously every 10,000 miles. 300,000 miles on the clock. Engine is clean on the inside and no wear factory machine marks are still there.
Thank you for this video. You answered a couple of questions i had. I especially liked how you touched on the carbon build-up in the EGR system. Of which has been kicking my butt over the past few years.
I have a deleted 2018 Ram 2500 6.7L. I travel with it a lot for work towing RVs. I’ll often time stop at a truck stop overnight and will idle for 6 to 8 hours at a time in order to run my AC and or heat. The truck will automatically turn on high idle periodically, but sometimes I do manually run the high idle for period of time. I have been doing this for approximately three years now, and the truck has over 330K on it. Engine runs fine, and I change the oil every 7500 miles. Is this something that I can continue to do safely? What are your thoughts?
I run a VW TDI and the oil gets changed when the car tells me there is 10% oil life remaining. For my driving (50% highway, 40% interstate, 10% in town) that's usually around 7k miles. Euro spec Mobil1 5W20 and Stanadyne fuel additive in the tank. Fuel filters every 20k per manufacturer spec. I usually drive conservatively, but getting on it hard once in a while is mandatory. I think it definitely helps to get it hot on the interstate, and definitely let it idle for at least 30 seconds while parked, before shutting it down. Great video, thank you.
Excellent points sir. yes dpf and egrs are not perfect by any means, but those videos of guys showing extreme carbon build ups never show the idle hours or disclose the maintenance records. Both of which I’m sure 99% of cases are due to high idle hours in relation to running hours and poor maintenance. These engines are meant for optimum running temps and long distances. Such is the case with 2 of my 5th gens. One gets ran every day and is at 190K miles all stock with no check engine light ever. The other get used to go the store once in a while and has been at the dealer 4 times due to emissions issues.
Just a thought. Mice love a nice warm block heated engine with lots of tasty wires close at hand. I dont have the cord but was thinking of getting one. Would either put on a timer switch or plug in an hour before starting. Trust me, you dont want the rodent problem.
Have you ever heard of drilling a hole in front of DPF, welding a nut and plug after, for a borescope exam? Your presentation is seriously clearer, more poignant, useful, than dozens and dozens of hours elsewhere. The only thing I confess-fear is using the high idle in Summer while in store to keep dog cool, it appears certain I have damaged the engine, or sooted it up severely, but the DPF regen only came on once in 68k, except recently beginning a 300 mi. trip empty, then in seconds the dreaded "Take to dealer" notice, no derate warning. I got advice to run down road at 2500rpm for over a hundred miles and suddenly the never seen "Regen" notice for about 65 miles popped up. Thought "I am saved!" In four days after that, visiting folks the DPF filter says about one third, and returning, running at 2500 for 50 miles changed nothing. Now I am just plain afraid to drive it. Thinking of drilling hole in front of DPF to insert borescope camera to see what's what (and weld a nut and such to reseal it). Any impression or insight is deeply appreciated.
my 2015 3500 is the only diesel i've ever had. had it 2 years now. i live up in canad'er... cold start 3-5 minute idle, oil changes 7500 mile intervals with mopar filters and rotella oil. also replace fuel filters and ccv on every oil change. works for me
I’m doing a service as I watch this vid , egr and other time bombs have been taken care of so I’ve taken the oil and filter changes down to 7500 kms and 15w-40 , I actually hate modern diesels in cars/recreational pickups
When I plug in my block heater, it takes about 4 hrs. To reach peak temp so running a wireless on/off control (~$17) or having a scheduled timer will save some. Cost on my 650W block heater is about 7 cents/hr so leaving it plugged overnight is wasting money past the first 4 hours. Re. 12V lead-acid starter battery: Most vehicle charging systems in northers winter driving will render battery chronically undercharged which will significantly reduce battery life so a trickle charger (~$30) is a very cost effective solution.
Living in Scandinavia, all my cars have had diesel engine- and compartment heaters installed and my Ebersprächer has been very good. I'm careful about maintenance and serviceplans, so the car and engineheater works flawlessly. Also also using synthetic motor oil. Changes every 15000 Kms (9300 miles).
Oil change can include a refill with diesel fuel as a temporary oil to flush the remaining oil out. Run, drain and put in fuel tank. Do not drive. Idle only. It is just a rinse solution.
I live in north western Ontario, I change oil on my 3.0 duramax every 6 months and usually have around 6000km on it at that interval. I have always done oil changes like that, gas or diesel… Ive owned 40+ vehicles in my 60 years and have never had any issues. Temperatures can range between-45c snd +45c so extreme conditions are common here
I live in Colombia (country) and have a Toyota Hilux diesel engine. The intervals of engine oil change is 3000 miles recommended by dilership and manufacturer. Happy to do it so often and the price is only 50 dollars for the change in the dillarship. This video is making me think that may be should shorten the intervals? The temperature of the area where I live is very hot all year around Florida wether. I was wondering what’s the reason of a 3000 mile of a recommendation of a oil change or 6 months. Some though about this intervals will be appreciated. Thanks
And yessss for starting the engine and living it runing for 5 min before driving the car. Me toyota does not have running the engine on a faster RPM than the factory set that in the morning is around 1000 RPM. Should I give I press the revolution pedal to increase the RPM to 1500 when I warm up me engen in the morning or won’t be recommended since the wether here is so hot ?
On cold starts mine automatically goes into high idle after a few minutes. I usually give my truck 3 to 5 minutes to warm up. It takes me another 4 to 5 minutes before I get on the interstate by that point in time I’m around 150° in cold weather in my coolant. I usually give it 60 seconds before I shut it down after driving it. I live in Tennessee. We typically have a mild climate here here I run Valvoline 10 W 30 synthetic blend. I change my oil approximately every six months. I’ve had six oil changes and I just turned 30,000 miles. Maintaining an engine the way I do whether it be gas or diesel. I’ve had a few issues. I got 280,000 miles out of my wife’s 6.2 L in her Yukon before I had to replace the engine and we bought it used.
Greetz to all American friends from Germany.... I stick to oil changes WITH oil filter every 4000 mls..... when engine is cold treat it the way you wanna be treated when chased out of bed at 2:30.... slow and silent with no hurry..... Doing so I always had diesel Benz W124 with very high mileage without problems.....
Great video. You must keep your oil as clean as possible. 5,000 mi for me. Everything you’ve said is critical to proper maintenance of a diesel engine especially oil to the turbo. Thanks for the great info.
I drove in my active life over 2 million kilometres about 1,300,000 million miles did the oil change and all the repairs of our cars 🚙 alone, did the oil change in my later years every 3,500 - 4,000 miles, drove a decent velocity and the cars 🚘 kept pretty well. God bless you ALL.
I have an duramax lbz the last engine before all the smog crap. I have a 3 stage high idle if I need to set and idle for mor than a couple minutes. I have 370 thousand miles still running strong.
Ram 2015 Ecodiesel. I had the dreaded mile countdown to see dealer. The DPF SCR was replaced by the extended warranty for original owners. The Diesel mechanic recommended I change the oil 8,000 miles and to replace the fuel filter at 16,000 miles. He highly recommended I use Hot Shot’s Extreme Diesel every 6,000 miles and followed up with EDT using 1 ounce for 20 gallons. I put in a K&N air filter. The Ecodiesel engine is discontinued. My cousin traded in his 2015 Ram Ecodiesel for a 2022 Limited and is very happy with the new engine. I told him to follow the Diesel tech’s recommendation on maintenance.
I’m all about raising your idle, but I have a monitor and can see all the parameters as soon as you raise the idle you are introducing EGR gases. at an idle the EGR is closed so no gunk is getting into the intake system check for yourself if you don’t believe me. At initial start up the EGR is normally closed at any engine speed, but once the engine has warmed up just a little bit. The EGR opens at an idle. It’s closed.
Biggest killer of the diesel engine is the government emissions crap. Sucking all of that EGR back into the engine adds to the oil degrading. Once deleted 10k mile oil changes are okay and oil analysis will look good at that point.
I regularly send oil into blackstone for analysis. I have a 2019 f450 with 102k on it and they regularly say the oil will be fine for 10k. I still don’t run it past 8k generally, but they say the oil is still fine and I can go longer. Also I’ve never had problems with emission equipment. The hotshots are running them to 4-500k without issue and have to have emissions intact.
Hard to delete the 2020 and up Powerstroke. I would like to but the support to do so is dwindling
@@Cotton088no it’s not
@@BrandonBigB956 ok. You would rather pollute the air than change oil more often. Got it. 👍🏼
Correct ✅ 💯
A certified diesel tech with hundreds of diesel motor repairs under his belt.. once and for all, 15,000 mile oil intervals are NOT GOOD! , stop defending them because your cheap! GREAT VIDEO
all you said is you don't know anything about lubrication. Stick to what you know and close your mouth when breathing.
You’re*
And there’s nothing wrong with 15k intervals when using quality oil and filters. Done it for years on all of my diesels. Zero issues ever out of any of them, ranging from 115°F to -50°F.
@@CornFed_3 you are an idiot. I have done multiple thousand engine replacements bc of dirty oil damaging engine systems. 150 dollars for an oil change or upwards of 15k for a new engine. It's pretty simple to me, I'll take the oil change. Stay in your lane bub.
600000 miles on my 7.3 and change every 1 quart drop which is between 12 and 18000 miles still runs great and oil is almost always clean. 3 trans and 3 water pumps and normal maintance. Lubes every 2-3 months. Same as my semis
For people that want to learn he has sage advice. Old people like me go by the engine.
The EPA and their mandated DPF is the largest killer of diesels.
Ford is putting a gasoline particulate filter (GPF) on their new 25 mavericks. Due to the EPA’s new strict emissions standards. Iam sure all the other big manufacturers will follow suit. Just put what I just wrote in TH-cam and many videos will come up on the topic.
I think EGR is worse than DPF. Lastly SCR is the least killer. Not saying DPF isn’t bad, but EGR dumping particulates back into your intake is worse than driving around the desert with no air filter.
No EGR is 1000 times worse than DPF.
EGR is the worst idea in engineering history. Eat thy own waste 🤮
@
Yes, another horrible EPA mandated device
Great video, sir.. Cummins field service tech here, this is a excellent public service announcement.
Thanks! I appreciate it
I have been changing the oil in my old 7.3 diesels every 3000 miles since they were new in 2001. They are still going like the day I bought them.
why not every 1000 miles? If you are going to waste time and money on oil changes, take it up to the next level.
Hey if you got the time you got the money whenever makes you happy
5000kms in Australia if u are using it😊 or 10000kms if it's a shopping cart😮
That's what is in the owners manual and recommended buy navistar and its due to the antifoaming agents in the oil that is needed for the HUEI injectors to operate correctly. The anti foaming agents usually go before the oil itself is done.
You can't compare and 30 year + old designed diesel that is all cast iron block and heads to the new power plants.
@@Patriot108-1 That's right; it's not fair to the new junk to compare it to the properly designed engines of the past.
I remember when I was younger and helped farm, when we were mold board plowing for hours at a time, when we quit at night we would park up, let it idle at around 1000rpm for about 5 minutes. Pull the idle all the way down, wait a minute or two then shut it down. Taught a long time ago about cool down. No matter what you were doing. Great video.
I like this guy! I trust mechanics, not dealership or Government.
Don't mechanics work at dealerships? Like this one in the video?
@@40calDeathPunch he might work for them, but he’s speaking total truth..
@@40calDeathPunch😂😂😂
Here in Australia I drive a 2.8 litre desiel Toyota hilux 4x4 and I do everything you say to do except cold morning warm up because we don't get those real cold mornings. Have a nice day over there in America you all
Toyota sells real trucks in Australia,Africa and the Middle East. We get the baby edition in the USA.
He’s right about the 5 thousand mile oil change and it applies to gas engines too.
I had a 05 6.0 for 14 years. I changed oil every 4000- 4500 miles. I could hear the difference on start up with fresh oil.
HEUI engines are by nature harder on the oil. It was a very versatile fuel system for It's time, but common rail overcame those obstacles. Common rail also brought us more fuel related failures on diesels unfortunately.
T6 in my 6.0 changed every 4,500 miles and my oil was crystal clear when it came out.
@@ChevyConQueso I worked for Bosch and started the very first common rail engine in the US down in Indiana. The system was very robust but required clean fuel. The downfall was when companies wanted to cut costs and started to reduce the quality of the parts being used.
If you run Archoil AR9100 in the oil and AR6500 in the fuel you'll stop hearing the difference.
Edit: The more important one is the AR9100.
I live in Florida and yes, I idol my truck
Since I heard Dave, I don’t even watch his videos anymore lol
I got 430,000 miles on GMC and so far never been to the dealer for engine or transmission.
His customer service rating is horrible even on his web site. D- BBB rating.
Has your truck had a weight loss or stock?
No, not yet, but please don’t jinx me 🤣
Do you know a shop in Florida that will do an eco diesel delete by any chance?
I have no idea. I deleted mine in Detroit.
Could you do a long video, or maybe a playlist, on Diesel 101 for new diesel owners? I found this information extremely helpful as someone who has never owned a diesel but is interested in buying one. Basically a detailed walkthrough of diesel engine basics, how all the parts of the exhaust system work, how to properly operate your vehicle from cold start to shut off (when towing and not towing), things people should be aware of when switching from gas to diesel, what to look for when buying diesel fuel and DEF, 101 on glow plugs and grid heaters and how they work. What things to do differently in cold vs hot climates (and what those temp ranges are). Essentially a crash course on owning a diesel engine for gas engine owners so they are prepared as they can be so they get the longest life out of their truck, plus any tips and tricks you’ve learned that you think new diesel owners should know. I’ve had a 2019 1500 5.7 for 3yrs and I’d like to step into the diesel world but I want to be as prepared as I can be before actually owning the truck. If you could also do a video on things to know when upgrading from light duty to heavy duty trucks and what all changes when you upgrade from light duty to HD, that would greatly appreciated too.
I have an 01’ Cummins that I bought brand new. I always change it at 5,000 miles. Truck still runs and performs like new. I’ll never get rid of that truck because it has never let me down. Never left me stranded. And never been in a repair shop for anything. 👊🏻
Does your serial # begin with a 1 or a 3 ….?
@@jeffreybexson7461what does the 1 or 3 stand for exactly?
@@ghostrider51500 1 equals made in USA, 3 equals made in Mexico.
@@ghostrider51500 1 is made in the US, 3 is mexico
2006 5.9 Fleetguard synthetic filters, Valvoline blue, get rid of that junky stock air filter and put a cold air intake like s&n or banks and let that cummins breathe
15,000 mile engine oil change intervals is insane to me. 5,000 miles sounds perfect to me.
th-cam.com/video/-FCdo17TZNc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Eais1ZYSXqimSSAZ
Depends on how you use it. I change at 15,000 and I'm at 215,000 miles zero issues
I’d be mainly doing short trips, so I’m not sure I’d be comfortable with going to 5K. I think I would invest in some oil analysis tests too. Those rigs are just so expensive.
Been chaning mine at the manufacturer recommended 15,000 miles from the start zero issues. I'm at over 120,000 miles
@@danielmorris-ruckett913 How many miles do you need to get out of your rig?
Diesel tech/shop owner here , great advice. Awesome video. 5k intervals is what my shop recomends to customers.
Thanks, I appreciate that! It's great to see other shops following the same practices.
My ‘15 Silverado 3500 is telling me it needs servicing, check owner’s manual now. I haven’t owned it quite a year and this is my first diesel. I’m currently limited to 55 MPH
Before I find a private diesel mechanic, any idea what I should expect the problem to be? Hasn’t been deleted as far as I can tell. I love the truck otherwise, but not impressed with how it can leave me stranded, so I’m learning. Thanks in advance!
@homemprovmentguy if your limited to 55 it's more than likely an aftertreatement issue. How's your Def level ? Did it freeze ? When was the last regen ?
@ I’m admittedly completely ignorant with this truck. It began limiting me at 65 mph. I don’t know how to check the DEF level. I know it displays but I haven’t watched it because I was curious what happens when it gets low. How would I know if it froze? I am in New Hampshire. I added a gallon of def when I first bought it. I don’t use the truck often, mostly use my work truck. I was planning to add another gallon of def tomorrow to see what happens.
What is this regen I’ve been seeing mentioned? Thanks again!
Don’t know how I got here but I watched the whole thing and learned something. Thank you 😂😂
I agree with good servicing practices 👍 I have run diesels for many years now . think one important factor that people should take into consideration when purchasing a vehicle is how you are planning to use it if you only use it for short runs or hauls . Maybe consider a gasoline engine they warm up faster than a diesel and have less carbon issues . A diesel likes to run at operating temperature under load at modest RPM for extended periods, especially all day long, that help them to perform well in the long haul .
The best fix for any diesel is a oil bypass. Absolutely a must. I got a amsoil one on my duramax an Cummins. Keeps the oil very clean.
@@Bsetzd I became an amsoil dealer a while back so I’ve switched everything in my vehicles over. It really is a noticeable difference.
@@cwilks5592 Hows that. Explain
You are correct, 5,000 miles is ideal. Anyone who ever does an oil analysis at 5k and 15k; the results speak for themselves. 👊🏁
I have a 5EK cat with over 1 million miles and with a bypass filter system I have run up to 80k miles and the oil test ok. My engine uses about 1 gal per 4k miles which replenishes additives enough that I don't have to change my oil but only the filters.
@@allanmccullough8550that’s because you have an oil bypass filter….
I was doing 4-4500 mile changes on my 06 Cummins, oil samples were great, one time I tried a 8500 mile and oil analysis came back still good and they told me to try 10,000 mile. For no reason other than it doesn’t feel right and I can afford it, I’m doing 4-4500 mile changes. So there goes your theory on seeing the difference. Maybe these new rigs are different.
Nah, I'm running 20k miles on my ford. Use good oil like schaeffers, and it'll be ok.
correct
While I agree with the warm up philosophy , and sane oil change intervals, I would posit that the #1 killer of modern diesels is EGR. Followed closely by PCV combining with the EGR soot.
That's a nice feature on those Rams, cruise button steps up the idle. Wish my Ford had that.
I put the switch in my ford, SEIC is the set up.
I work at Walmart in the Auto Care Center. In my store, we do a good number of diesel oil changes because we're in the oil patch.
About 12 or 13 years ago, a guy brought his brand new Ram 2500 Diesel in for it's first oil change................at 40,000 miles.
His truck was provided to him by the company he worked for and he had never run a diesel before. He knew it was a long time but didn't understand what the problems were with not changing oil much more consistently.
I did the lower side of the oil change and when I cracked open the drain plug, what came out no longer could be justifyably called oil. It was more like carbon in a liquid suspension. Of course I got some of it on my hand and I had to get out of the lower bay and go wash my hand because I couldn't hold onto the tools.
After the oil change was done, I advised the customer he should consider doing a very short oil change interval for the next few oil changes, like no more than 2000 miles each oil change and hope for the best.
Thats awful.
Finding a good mechanic is as hard as finding a good doctor. Thanks for what you do brother
I do oil testing so I have some science about my oil change intervals. 5,000 miles is good, but the oil has plenty of life and low contaminants present. I think a more ideal mileage is between 7,500 to 10,000 miles depending how hard the motor gets worked. At this point contaminants including fuel dilution are beginning to rise to moderate levels. By 12,500 miles my truck had nearly 5% fuel dilution, mildly degraded base number, and moderate copper and potassium levels. Bottom line is you are absolutely correct. 15,000 mile oil change intervals are way too long.
Thanks for sharing your oil testing experience, that’s good data!
So basically at 5k, your oil stays clean. 5k it is!
I’m not a diesel tech but know quite a bit about diesel engines. This video is spot on. Well done.
Almost all my diesel engines have a pre heater plumbed into the coolant system, with a remote control , and a pre lube system, a must for cold weather regions 😊
I've watched numerous videos like these. This one has a lot of good advice. That said, few videos fully address the issue of idling a 2007+ MY vehicle to warm the engine. It is this: a diesel that is not at operating temperature is producing high quantities of particulates until it reaches operating temperature. Those particulates will go into the DPF, where it will eventually have to be burned off. On my Ford 6.7 Super Duty, the engine idling at operating temperature would fill the DPF at a rate of 5%-10% per hour, but would fill the DPF up to triple that rate at below operating temperature. Knowing this, my regimen in cold weather was to start the engine and, once the oil pressure was up, elevate the idle (I installed an elevated idle control--EIC--that would elevate the idle to 1,200 RPM on command) long enough to get the engine to about 100° F. temperature, then drive the truck at moderate RPM and load until the engine reached full operating temperature. At outside ambient temperatures below around 10°-15° F., I would use the block heater, though I found the block heater running all the time was not generally necessary in all but frigid temperatures--I had my block heater on a timer that would start it about 4 hours before I planned to drive the truck. Unless it was absolutely necessary, I would never extended idle the truck (for more than, say, 10-15 minutes); if I idled it for any longer than that, I would elevate the idle using the EIC. 2007+ MY diesel vehicles are just not fit to use as a short-trip grocery getter--that is just asking for emission system and engine problems. When I no longer needed my diesel Super Duty to use vocationally where it would usually run on longer trips, I traded it for a gasoline truck. I've owned and been around diesels for about a half-century and love them, but the modern emission control systems have made them expensive, often unreliable, and impractical for many uses. I still have a pre-2007 diesel vehicle that doesn't have all the emission system issues.
As an owner operator and business owner. I never ever excessively idle my Ram fleet. I also made a point. Between hauls if they were ever used for a short trip. I would routinely take them out on drives to do passive regen to clear the dpf.
The rams have an automatic idle increase, even on my 2017, to help get up to operating temps faster. And the exhaust brake comes on automatically till oil temp reqcehes 160 F. For most starts, 30 seconds to a minute is the bare minimum id wait before moving, and then it's just low rpms and mild speeds until warm is done. Never let it idle for more than 10 minutes on warm-up.
My percentage of idle in total operating hours is usually 10% to 20% of running hours.
@@danielmorris-ruckett913 if you're running gauges, you might be surprised at how hard it is to actually obtain a passive regen. Sustaining 900 F post DPF takes some long pulls on hills with a windsail behind the truck.
@johnneil6653 I drive quite some distance and rarely ever lug my trucks. But yeah I get the passive regen is difficult for some.
Your info videos are in the top tier in all of you tube. Your easy going matter of fact demeanor grabs the viewers attention. I really appreciate your Journeyman level of expertise and knowledge...keep the vids coming. Oh and you and JB make a good team! Happy Holidays Sir!!
Thanks! I appreciate that. Happy Holidays to you too!
When you spend $90,000 for a new diesel it’s penny wise and pound foolish not to change the oil at 5,000 miles or less. Excellent advice on not idling unnecessarily, but doing a couple of minutes of cool down idle, after driving, to protect the turbo.
So much truth here! Great video and many thanks for making it. I have alway ignored the ridiculously high roccomended oil change intervals on my Land Rover and since new the oil has been changed every 10,000km and more often if I am towing. Another tip is even after a few minutes of warming up don't push the engine hard when cold. Keep the acceleration and speeds down until full operating temperature has been reached.
I agree with you 1000% I never go more than a max of 5000 miles on oil changes. It's easy to learn to do this service for oneself to save if that's a big issue. Oil changes are very cheap compared to the price of the vehicle and potential repairs.
When approaching from the POV of fuel and oil filters, it looks WAY expensive, but in fact, the oil filters are pretty cheap for modern trucks (less than 20 bucks). Am currently toying with idea of changing oil a day before changing the oil so as to help flush the trucks innards a bit better. It appears inarguable 10k miles for an oil change (per mfr) is just dumb.
@@MindFusion-ij1xlChanging oil twice is throwing money away. Every 5K is enough. Look into bypass filtration before you do that. Big trucks run centrifuges. Some folks do on pickups, but usually it's bypass filters.
@@ChevyConQueso Count not agree more, however, since I followed manual and changed at 10k, the oil looks WAY sootier than expected, did idle a lot, so thought a one-time oil change where cheap oil is run for perhaps an hour gives the expensive, synthetic, stuff a cleaner... crankcase and system... to do its job. Thanks for the insights.
Enjoy the vids keep them coming -from a fella in the trenches /boots on the ground -I always have an open ear and willing to learn.
Thank you, I appreciate that!
Good intell. Our small fleet of small diesels seem to be rolling down the road fine, 5K max- on fresh oil, decent warm up-cool down. Has been successful the past couple decades.
I am still old school mechanic and don’t even look at mileage. I go by hours which Cummins use to be around 400 hours. The only way you can include idling time as well as traveling.
That’s how we do industrial equipment. Typically manufacturers have different thresholds but typically 500-600 hours same for PMs, most fluids other than engine oil is annual
I was a heavy equipment tech for years and do the same thing.
@@ToasterrBath same, still am I work on light heavy equipment
@@gunztommiegunz I started out on the smaller stuff but ended up mostly working on bigger stuff. I did a lot of major modifications on smaller stuff and would’ve loved to have only done that stuff.
Caterpillar manual for a 5EK recommends changing oil after so many gallons of fuel used.
i’ve got 250,000 miles on my 2011 6.7 cummins. had it since brand new, and i’ve been religious about oil changes, fuel filter changers, tire rotations and switching out the CCV!! 5500 miles is the sweet spot for me and i’ve never had any issues! still got the OG 68rfe too, no problems at all
i would like to hear your thoughts on fuel and DEF addatives if they are do work or if they are bad for the engine and DEF system thanks
*As someone who loves keeping my diesel running strong, this info is a lifesaver. Thanks for breaking it down like a pro-time to show my engine some extra love! 🔧*
I can't begin to thank you for this video...... just subbed and share.......looking forward to next video. No nonsense.....but a totally respectful gentleman!
SEMPER-FI ...... 🇺🇸
You said something that on the farm with our big diesels, after say 10 hours of work in the field we'd let it cool at idle for a bit, not long but let spool down. Also good time to losten to see if everything sounds right and runs right. Big point, not talked about much at all, maybe it's more important for big diesels.
We did that when it was time to hop down and take a piss lol
I just turned 220,000 on my 2006 duramax. I run 15 to 20 k oil changes,with filter change at 5000, but i also run a frantz bypass filter and pull an oil sample every 5,000 miles for a full workup. which includes tbn,coolant,fuel, and wear metals.
I have been running shell rottela t6 since it came out in the 15w40 variety in northern wisconsin year round. Truck has had injectors replaced and head gaskets done at 132,000 only because the dealer broke a glow plug off in the head. The tech said the motor was too clean to have that many miles on it. I told him what i was running and doing, and he said, "Keep doing it"
Yes! I’ve seen plenty of engines maintained like that go for crazy high hours before an overhaul. That’s a huge money saver when used properly.
Buddy you seem to be spending a lot of money trying to save a lil bit. Around about 5k oil change and pm service. Never done an oil analysis kind of don’t see the point either. Just don’t abuse the equipment also trucks break down especially work trucks that run everyday.
How much is oil analysis vs oil change?
@poseypapusdiazfamily4630 in my area it runs about $30
Thanks for the very informative video. I bought a new GMC 3500 dually diesel in 2020. I also bought a lifetime oil change package that the dealership offered. I must say that it‘s paid for it‘s self. I drive from Portland OR to Canton OH every year..sometimes multiple trips. An oil change before I leave and another in Ohio for the return trip(I pay for this one). Dealer says my truck purrs like a kitten and is always offering to buy it back from me. Great info on the warm-up tips. I‘ll start plugging my truck in….Cheers
Thank you I have a 30 Duramax engine and what I have been doing is just starting up leaving it out I did not realize do IO higher how much you appreciate everything teacher sir very happy with watching your videos thank you so much God bless you and your family and Merry Christmas to you
Merry Christmas to you as well!
Oil consumption is a real issue with these modern diesel. So every time you fill up check the oil.
I stumbled on your video and I have to say you are spot on. I'm a heavy diesel mechanic and been doing it for years also worked at a dealership as a diesel mechanic. Every time we drop the oil on a semi or heavy equipment we take an oil sample for that reason of contamination and dilution. I see more engine failures due to that fact. I think oil samples are important to see what you engine is doing also cutting open you oil filter and inspecting the element and not just waiting for engine failure to do these things. Good video
Great Finally someone that knows what the hell they are talking about. A no bull💩 guy ! Thanks for giving us useful information
he knows turning wrenches. Not lubrication.
He knows why wrenches need turned, proper lubrication being the main contributor.
@GreggWalken-xd3qv and doesn't understand what makes proper lubrication. He may be a great tech but in prior videos explained his understanding of tribology and it was completely false, his understanding of chemistry is completely off base, and to contradict his current advice he showed a torn down Hemi which was nearly spotless but failed because it is a Hemi. Not a lubricant issue. If one wants repair advice definitely follow what he says. If one wants to understand lubrication and chemistry definitely do not follow his advice.
@@davidporter7051 spot on
And what's your advice?@@davidporter7051
Awesome information as always. I change the oil in my 6.7 every 5k miles and fuel filters as well. My peterbilt gets oil and fuel at 10k on the X15. Maintenance is the number one thing to keeping a working engine.
Sorry, the EGR is the biggest killer of a diesel engine
I totally agree. EGR and subsequent emissions related equipment is an example of governmental overreach and science quackery. EGR’s only design is to lower exhaust gas temperature so that Nox gas is reduced (a byproduct of high temp fuel combustion), BUT lower exhaust gas temps increase soot and particulates in diesel engines, so, a particulate filter is added to catch soot. As this video shows, this dirty EGR exhaust stream is rerouted back into your inlet cooler, and turbo before reentering the engine which makes a mess and will have to be addressed at some point. When the particulate filter starts getting clogged, it must be cleaned by injecting diesel fuel from your tank into the filter to raise temps high enough to burn off soot and particulates (regen mode). This is the reason for the fluted, eduction exhaust coolers on the tips of the tail pipes; to prevent fires from the high temps during regeneration. Then, to add further complexity, BlueDEF systems are used to reduce exhaust emissions to some agreed to standards. BTW, DEF fluid is just distilled water and urea (nitrogen), which is a wonderful and cheap fertilizer for your lawn and garden needs….The mechanics and chemistry of DEF systems for diesel engines are solid, I am just not sure if they will work in the absence of EGR systems knowing how they are all intrinsically connected.
Only if you are a liberal and still have it on there
The root of all problems
Oil. Power. Fuel economy. Abrasive cylinder wear leads to blowby oil consumption
I use water methanol injection
Have lower exhaust temps than with EGR
Morning power
Better economy
6.7 Cummins
9.8 litre per 100 Ks 😅 hiway
JB did us all a service by introducing you. Love the videos and best of luck to ya sir.
I’m with you on the 5k intervals, i actually do like 3500 on my 06 5.9. And I get it to temp and then let it drain for 20-30 min then pour a new sacrificial quart down its gullet and let that all drain out before I add new
That’s a good practice
Does it really make a difference running that quart to clean it up?
What a complete waste. I guarantee you use Rotella.
I have a 2017 2500 with almost $170,000 Mi and I'm hearing things from you I never knew thank you for the information
My Ford 6.7 says on the dash when its 5k miles change oil and I do. I live in Florida and idle for a few minutes, double it in the winter. My first five minutes of driving I take it easy because of where I live is remote and i dont have to get up to speed in a hurry. I hope thats fine.
Having had issues in the past with mechanics overfilling oil & coolant reservoirs which lead to various engine seals being compromised…it would be great to hear someone speak with authority about the effects of increasing pressure does to an engine.
I have a 2018. I always put it on fast idle when warming up or have to have it running.
Great video man I got a 2020 6.7 limited, it’s a great truck for the most part but I tell you what nothing is more frustrating than coming home after a long trip and when you’re opening the gate you hear the truck idle up an does a active regen 1/4 mile from the house, I don’t shut it down I go for another lap back up the mountain then everything’s all happy again.
Good information with the video. I'll ask about turning on the exhaust brake during warmup. Is that still recommended? Another thing that kills engine oil is short driving trips such as a few miles to the store or work. If the engine and the oil doesn't get hot enough the contaminants don't burn or evaporate out of the oil. I don't drive my Diesel pickup during the winter unless I know it will be driven far enough to get hot enough for the oil, exhaust system, and a good engine warm up. I do have my block heater plugged in to a timer that is set up to turn on about 4 hours before starting and that definitely helps warm up faster. Keep the videos coming Josh.
My Q7 has a built in Webasto heater which helps a lot in winter. Engine can be pre-warmed and the heater will kick in anyway if temp outside is below 10 deg C. Very nice feature.
As a result of your guidance (including your other videos) I tried "DRIVING IT LIKE I STOLE IT" for test purposes! GUESS WHAT!
My plugged DPF, so unwilling to go into regen, WENT INTO REGEN before I got to the freeway, before it was warmed up, within four blocks of the house! I KNOW that is contradictory... however!
All I had to do was MASH THAT THROTTLE a few times at stop signs, slow down, and (I estimate) the difference in back pressure, never seen because I drive to maximize fuel economy hauling or not, was sufficient to cause a ALMOST NEVER SEEN regen.
I conclude (and invite your analysis) IF YOUR TRUCK IS BABIED TOO MUCH IT WON'T GO INTO REGEN.
DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT (like a drunk teenager, I guess) every so often to initiate a regen!
Do you have ANY idea how relieved I am? Drove 40 miles, and it completed regen, DPF is at zero percent.
Thanks, thanks a LOT.
I have a 2015 half ton Eco Diesel. Bought new has 150,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 8-10,000 miles. I have the oil analysis done 3 times a year. At the 150,000 mile check it was rated as one of the best results they have seen for an Eco.
Always:
1. 5W-40 regardless of climate. Covered on both ends of the temp range
2. 2 - 3 minute idle warm ups or else it's just cooling down and wet stacking.
3. 10,000 mile oil changes is perfectly fine if you do the above 2
Great information but i think after a hard tow or driving a interstate speeds you need to idle for at least 5 minutes before shutting down i service a fleet of w900 kenworths w ith c15 cats they came with factory installed twist dial style kitchen timer idle switch they recommended at least 7 to 10 minutes of idle before shutdown all turbos spin 186000 rpms they get really hot!! Merry Christmas to all!!!
In general i have to say, great advice! Considerable comments. I just like to mention that a 15k miles oil change for me driving 50/80 miles at a time versus a hotshot driver is a world of difference. Heat cycles, warm ups........
I have a 2016 and my friend has a 2021 cummins. I find it odd that both our trucks have 15 k oil change intervals but my 16 is 6 months and the 21 is 12 months. I believe that should be the other way around because of the hydraulic lifters in the 21. I change my oil every 6 months usually between 7k-8k miles. My truck doesn't take short trips and is used to tow 15k pound camper. I do believe 15k intervals are fine for people that hot shot as they may put 15k on their truck in a few months and are working the engines. But I agree if you use it as a grocery getter than 5 k is probably a good rule of thumb. Also I rarely use the high idle. The truck will high idle itself after running for a minute or two so I just let the ECM decide what's best for the truck.
Great video! Only thing I would do differently is let the high idle do its own thing to avoid thermal shock to the head causing possible fracture issues. I plug my truck in every chance I get to avoid the high idle kicking in at turn key when I get to negative temperatures (Celsius). I also let mine cool down habitually. Especially when towing. 2-3 minutes warm up in cold temps, drive it gingerly for a couple minutes then normal operation. Always give it a Ferrari stopping every drive to burn off soot.
This is a very knowledgeable tech. He should be training the entire Ram fleet of diesel techs.
I own a fleet of CumminsISX semi trucks. I’ve never changed oil before 20k miles on any of the 8 trucks. One truck has over a million miles and just now due for an overhaul. No issues. 5k mile oil change interval in a common rail is dumb AF and a waste of money.
Your ISX is likely sitting next to a centrifugal oil filter on the frame rail. Those things flat out work, and they're full of carbon sludge when you clean them. I'm going to be putting a small one on my 12 valve, because it can't hurt and I have the space underhood for it. These modern pickup diesels are a nightmare due to most being driven around as big cars 90%+ of the time, and are equipped with less than durable emissions components, so I fully understand the fear people have of repair bills. It really is criminal what the EPA has saddled them with.
The guys saying they change oil at 3K leave me shaking my head. I'd run a bypass filter before changing oil at 5K miles. They are cheap and effective at pulling soot. Fleetguard even makes standard size filters with a bypass built into them.
Oil analysis is your friend as well.
Those are different engines
Yhats tractor trailer not 3500 to 5500 6.7 liter. Your engines have 18 qt of oil or more
I truly enjoy videos like this. I don't have a truck nor a diesel engine. But the last 3 cars I've owned have been turbo engines. I live in New York, winters can be cold. I let the car idle for 2 to 3 minutes upon start up and then I begin to drive at a slow moderate pace because to me the engine is still warming but I'm not overdoing it. Then when I'm ready to shut the car off.... I actually let the car sit for about 30 seconds and then I shut it off. I like my cars to last and I definitely do 5000 mile oil changes. The 10000 mile recommendation is way too long.
You’re doing a great job!
In the older days, with our big trucks with Cats, my old man was adamant about 10K oil change intervals, and that was before EGR. Cat was onto something with pulling EGR after the DPF, which they called CGI, so at least there was a chance of dumping somewhat cleaner Exhaust Gasses back into the combustion cycle. Are any of the big-3 doing that with their EGR setups on the diesel pickups?
The eco diesel new gen does use that but in combination with a pre dpf egr
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience with us diesel owners. I change the oil in my F350 every 3000 miles. It will last the rest of my life. 😊
Get rid of the EPA and make diesels great again!
Nah, get rid of lazy owners. 110k miles on mine and I had almost no carbon buildup.
Ah no. NOx and SOx causes smog and cancer.
People who ignore history are condemned to repeat it.
Hopefully the new administration will get rid of the EPA.
@@aaron___6014 but delete the EPA still.
@@aaron___6014how’s u manage that?
I have 2 diesels… I bought both brand new. A 1984 GMC K2500 6.2 4x4 and a 2009 GMC 1-ton Duramax. I use Amsoil synthetic oil… change it at 10,000 miles in the Duramax and annually in the 6.2. With every oil change, I get a complete lab analysis of the used oil.
When I purchased my 12 Ram Laramie Cummins the used dealership said I don't need to change the oil right away! I said I didn't Care it's black I didn't do it, I don't know what they used!. I purchased it to tow a 5R when towing I changed the oil every 3000 ! When not towing it's every 3k to 5k , I only use Shell T6 , I keep it in a garage during the winter I will not start it when it's below 32°f unless it's been plugged in overnight. People say I'm taking it too far? I don't think so it's a 12 with 150k on it , it's valuable, and I have a 01 GMC Yukon with 365000 on it that still runs like new ! I'm doing something right. The GMC only gets Mobile 1. And since I purchased the Truck in Tennessee unfortunately the wire for the block heater was not installed so I had to install one when moving to the Michigan UP it gets cold very cold and 300" of snow annually.😮😂 Future deleting is something I won't talk about I'm waiting to see what happens to the EPA.
Holy shit lol. 🤦🏻
Oil will always be black and a diesel friend
@ Yep. I’ve been able to keep it clean looking for a week at the most. I installed my own auxiliary cooler and oil filter that works off of a thermostat just for peace of mind.
@@jamesvuxta8723 No kidding. It's designed to suspend soot particles and clean them off. One drive and it's doing that.
Great video, As a mechanic this certainly helps both on the preventative maintenance side of things and helps pin point problems. You had some good turbo habits for those expensive turbos and of course wisdom on oil; the dos and don'ts. Thanks for your time and effort you put into this video.
What is your opinion on the service interval for the ZF 8 transmission. The dealer says lifetime service. ZF says 60k. I’m a retired lifelong dealership master trans tech and in my opinion, lifetime service is a marketing ploy
Dealer says fill for life. ZF says 60K. I service mine every 60k. I don’t agree with everything the dealer/ owners manual says. And I work for the company lol
Thanks, first time diesel owner.
I have owned 5 diesels in my life a 6.2,6.5, two 7.3 and a 6.0 always changed my oil at 5000 miles and fuel filters at 10000 miles and ran a fuel additive never had a problem. I personally would not buy a new one they are to expensive and used one because most people don’t do maintenance the way they should
Im a company driver of Carhauler, we using RAM 3500 Cummins, I wanted to add something about cold start routine, before to start the engine I also press start button twice before to touch the brake and start it, I believe this primes the fuel system after sitting and I noticed that it’s actually starts better (less cranks) just something to consider..
You should probably know about the grid heater on your truck.
In the cold regions you need a variable shutter on your radiator . Solves the operating below recommended temperature at temperature extremes.
This man gets it.
Thank you!
The whole trouble is with the whole industry is nobody wants to do correct maintenance on these big diesel. They think they run by themselves forever and they don’t. It takes meticulous maintenance proper warm-up. I think he gave a very concise detailed video. Congratulations for somebody. That’s out in the field and knows what to do.!!’🎉 especially somebody is out in the field in a dirty environment. Dirt roads, mud a lot of dust you have to change that oil do the proper maintenance. Very concise video. Very very concise. I like it show more specially for the big V8. Thank you.
Your oil is naturally going to blacken due to the Sulphur being removed from the diesel fuel. All my O/O trucking career I've owned cat's" and learned that BACK PRESSURE is one of the biggest diesel engine killers" that's another reason cat discontinued building truck engines in 2010. Because cat's won't run on those joke's called regene exhaust systems.
@@nicholasaquino5160
Sulphur being removed has zero to do with oil turning black
@candyman1967 bullshit" sulfur is a bonding agent which used to keep the dirt outta your oil. By removing it your oil will blacken quicker!!!!!!!
This helps alot! Being a new diesel owner myself I have nothing but questions. Biggest being idle times and warmup. You would think though given what these trucks are priced at they would include the damn block heater cable.
2003 Cummins 5.9, change religiously every 10,000 miles. 300,000 miles on the clock. Engine is clean on the inside and no wear factory machine marks are still there.
Thank you for this video. You answered a couple of questions i had. I especially liked how you touched on the carbon build-up in the EGR system. Of which has been kicking my butt over the past few years.
I have a deleted 2018 Ram 2500 6.7L. I travel with it a lot for work towing RVs. I’ll often time stop at a truck stop overnight and will idle for 6 to 8 hours at a time in order to run my AC and or heat. The truck will automatically turn on high idle periodically, but sometimes I do manually run the high idle for period of time. I have been doing this for approximately three years now, and the truck has over 330K on it. Engine runs fine, and I change the oil every 7500 miles. Is this something that I can continue to do safely? What are your thoughts?
I run a VW TDI and the oil gets changed when the car tells me there is 10% oil life remaining. For my driving (50% highway, 40% interstate, 10% in town) that's usually around 7k miles. Euro spec Mobil1 5W20 and Stanadyne fuel additive in the tank. Fuel filters every 20k per manufacturer spec.
I usually drive conservatively, but getting on it hard once in a while is mandatory. I think it definitely helps to get it hot on the interstate, and definitely let it idle for at least 30 seconds while parked, before shutting it down. Great video, thank you.
Excellent points sir. yes dpf and egrs are not perfect by any means, but those videos of guys showing extreme carbon build ups never show the idle hours or disclose the maintenance records. Both of which I’m sure 99% of cases are due to high idle hours in relation to running hours and poor maintenance.
These engines are meant for optimum running temps and long distances. Such is the case with 2 of my 5th gens. One gets ran every day and is at 190K miles all stock with no check engine light ever. The other get used to go the store once in a while and has been at the dealer 4 times due to emissions issues.
Just a thought.
Mice love a nice warm block heated engine with lots of tasty wires close at hand.
I dont have the cord but was thinking of getting one. Would either put on a timer switch or plug in an hour before starting.
Trust me, you dont want the rodent problem.
Have you ever heard of drilling a hole in front of DPF, welding a nut and plug after, for a borescope exam?
Your presentation is seriously clearer, more poignant, useful, than dozens and dozens of hours elsewhere.
The only thing I confess-fear is using the high idle in Summer while in store to keep dog cool, it appears certain I have damaged the engine, or sooted it up severely, but the DPF regen only came on once in 68k, except recently beginning a 300 mi. trip empty, then in seconds the dreaded "Take to dealer" notice, no derate warning.
I got advice to run down road at 2500rpm for over a hundred miles and suddenly the never seen "Regen" notice for about 65 miles popped up. Thought "I am saved!"
In four days after that, visiting folks the DPF filter says about one third, and returning, running at 2500 for 50 miles changed nothing. Now I am just plain afraid to drive it. Thinking of drilling hole in front of DPF to insert borescope camera to see what's what (and weld a nut and such to reseal it).
Any impression or insight is deeply appreciated.
Diesel duds in Canada take that garbage off your truck asap nothing ruins a diesel engine faster than an egr dpf combo
Where I work, we run our Cummins engines on 1000 hour intervals. This equates to around every 40k miles. They typically last over 20,000 hours.
my 2015 3500 is the only diesel i've ever had. had it 2 years now. i live up in canad'er... cold start 3-5 minute idle, oil changes 7500 mile intervals with mopar filters and rotella oil. also replace fuel filters and ccv on every oil change. works for me
I’m doing a service as I watch this vid , egr and other time bombs have been taken care of so I’ve taken the oil and filter changes down to 7500 kms and 15w-40 , I actually hate modern diesels in cars/recreational pickups
When I plug in my block heater, it takes about 4 hrs. To reach peak temp so running a wireless on/off control (~$17) or having a scheduled timer will save some. Cost on my 650W block heater is about 7 cents/hr so leaving it plugged overnight is wasting money past the first 4 hours.
Re. 12V lead-acid starter battery:
Most vehicle charging systems in northers winter driving will render battery chronically undercharged which will significantly reduce battery life so a trickle charger (~$30) is a very cost effective solution.
Living in Scandinavia, all my cars have had diesel engine- and compartment heaters installed and my Ebersprächer has been very good. I'm careful about maintenance and serviceplans, so the car and engineheater works flawlessly. Also also using synthetic motor oil. Changes every 15000 Kms (9300 miles).
Oil change can include a refill with diesel fuel as a temporary oil to flush the remaining oil out. Run, drain and put in fuel tank. Do not drive. Idle only. It is just a rinse solution.
Also by the high idle will increase the oil pressure
I live in north western Ontario, I change oil on my 3.0 duramax every 6 months and usually have around 6000km on it at that interval. I have always done oil changes like that, gas or diesel… Ive owned 40+ vehicles in my 60 years and have never had any issues. Temperatures can range between-45c snd +45c so extreme conditions are common here
I live in Colombia (country) and have a Toyota Hilux diesel engine. The intervals of engine oil change is 3000 miles recommended by dilership and manufacturer. Happy to do it so often and the price is only 50 dollars for the change in the dillarship. This video is making me think that may be should shorten the intervals? The temperature of the area where I live is very hot all year around Florida wether. I was wondering what’s the reason of a 3000 mile of a recommendation of a oil change or 6 months. Some though about this intervals will be appreciated. Thanks
And yessss for starting the engine and living it runing for 5 min before driving the car. Me toyota does not have running the engine on a faster RPM than the factory set that in the morning is around 1000 RPM. Should I give I press the revolution pedal to increase the RPM to 1500 when I warm up me engen in the morning or won’t be recommended since the wether here is so hot ?
Thanks for the advice
On cold starts mine automatically goes into high idle after a few minutes. I usually give my truck 3 to 5 minutes to warm up. It takes me another 4 to 5 minutes before I get on the interstate by that point in time I’m around 150° in cold weather in my coolant. I usually give it 60 seconds before I shut it down after driving it. I live in Tennessee. We typically have a mild climate here here I run Valvoline 10 W 30 synthetic blend. I change my oil approximately every six months. I’ve had six oil changes and I just turned 30,000 miles. Maintaining an engine the way I do whether it be gas or diesel. I’ve had a few issues. I got 280,000 miles out of my wife’s 6.2 L in her Yukon before I had to replace the engine and we bought it used.
Greetz to all American friends from Germany.... I stick to oil changes WITH oil filter every 4000 mls..... when engine is cold treat it the way you wanna be treated when chased out of bed at 2:30.... slow and silent with no hurry.....
Doing so I always had diesel Benz W124 with very high mileage without problems.....
Great video. You must keep your oil as clean as possible. 5,000 mi for me. Everything you’ve said is critical to proper maintenance of a diesel engine especially oil to the turbo. Thanks for the great info.
I drove in my active life over 2 million kilometres about 1,300,000 million miles did the oil change and all the repairs of our cars 🚙 alone, did the oil change in my later years every 3,500 - 4,000 miles, drove a decent velocity and the cars 🚘 kept pretty well. God bless you ALL.
I have an duramax lbz the last engine before all the smog crap. I have a 3 stage high idle if I need to set and idle for mor than a couple minutes. I have 370 thousand miles still running strong.
Ram 2015 Ecodiesel. I had the dreaded mile countdown to see dealer. The DPF SCR was replaced by the extended warranty for original owners. The Diesel mechanic recommended I change the oil 8,000 miles and to replace the fuel filter at 16,000 miles.
He highly recommended I use Hot Shot’s Extreme Diesel every 6,000 miles and followed up with EDT using 1 ounce for 20 gallons. I put in a K&N air filter. The Ecodiesel engine is discontinued. My cousin traded in his 2015 Ram Ecodiesel for a 2022 Limited and is very happy with the new engine. I told him to follow the Diesel tech’s recommendation on maintenance.
I’m all about raising your idle, but I have a monitor and can see all the parameters as soon as you raise the idle you are introducing EGR gases. at an idle the EGR is closed so no gunk is getting into the intake system check for yourself if you don’t believe me. At initial start up the EGR is normally closed at any engine speed, but once the engine has warmed up just a little bit. The EGR opens at an idle. It’s closed.