I bought a 1985 GS700ES and the carb set up is exactly the same. This whole build playlist has helped me immensely with my project. Bravo and thank you.
Just the info I needed. Doing 850gs carbs. Taken apart years ago. Life and cancer got in the way. FYI 3dot break fluid is excellent for rubber. Detail shots were awesome. Thank you for you work on this.
Great video on the work bench sequences. I learned quite a bit. Also, glad to see you are being careful with chemicals. When I worked for Sunnen Products in the 1970s we used 1,1,1-trichloroethylene in the ultrasound machine and for degreasing. Maybe you have something safer now. I hope so. Very dangerous. I think '111-trich" is still out there in the motorcycling world as an additive for dirt bike air filter oil to help it flow. You can avoid contact by putting the foam filter in a plastic freezer bag and work the oil into it, then squeeze the excess back into the bottle. And I would go so far as to say don't try to clean dirty foam filters with solvents, especially "111-trich".
Brother, don't to worry about the details, with phone or camera, your videos are amazing, so much value and content, keep doing what you are doing, thank you so much for the knowledge !! ✌💖
Thanks for the information. I have a 1982 SUZUKI GS 550 L that I rescued, and my next job is to pull and rebuild the carbs. Now, it fires on #3 and #4 but not on #1 or #2. After I run it for a minute or more, gas ends up in the exhaust pipes. Carb issue? By the way, I cleaned the tank of rust by first cleaning it with Spray 9 and then Metal Rescue. It worked well. Thanks for not talking insessantly or playing background music like some of the other presenters. Much appreciated, Michael
I just bought a gs550 from someone who couldn't tune the carbs and played with jetting, this is awesome. Hopefully he didn't strip too many phillips :p thanks for the vids, these are great
Oh yea. Definitely the carbs on the nighthawk. Just going there first. The Bandit ~ I think I'm looking at new rubber around the carbs. Like very very new manifold material. The Bandit has some of this and some of that but I think the engine is "OK". ~. Scary. Thank you ! Again and again and again. I don't know what to say. "Bless me father, for I have sinned."
Thanks a lot for your videos, It's nice and relaxing just watching them you convince me everytime to take the plunge and buy myself an old, non-rolling motorbike 😀 Thanks again, going to continue watching, let see (if - of course - and) how it's running ;-)
Trying not to bore you with the details. The Bandit is registered and I have the plate. The Nighthawk is registered and I have the plate. The Bandit will be for sale. The problem I have is maybe not the Bandit (for sale) but the Nighthawk. I thought I had the Bandit sold twice on fb MP. Now the paperwork is nice and neat. Next is to start it. Then who knows? So much fun. Thank you so much BJ!
I guess it keeps things interesting, but when I was researching carbs, I was so annoyed by the many different layouts. As well as things having different names. It was nice hearing you mention the little things that I did (as well) on my own that was right. When actually watching this, I was amazed with everything that I got right, and I actually wondered how I knew some of the stuff (like the assembly sequence for the mixture screw). I guess that's what happens with a lot of research and a workshop manual .
Just came across this video. Now looking forward to getting the carbs off (81 GS550) & checking them. I paid someone to repair/rebuild them last year & it ran great after. Then after I let it sit about 5 wks the carbs started leaking whenever you start it...and I assume that it is the floats sticking? Gas pretty much just flows out of 2 of them after a few seconds of running. This video will certainly be a help. Thanks for posting it.
Im happy to hear its helpful! Yes, stuck float. Simply tap on the carb bodies with the handle end of a screwdriver and it will hopefully stop. If not it has some debris in the bowls
I know you are busy, but maybe you will see this: I replaced the needle & seat(of what I thought was the offending carb...#2) & all bowl gaskets, put the carbs back in then it leaked worse :( Maybe it's leaking somewhere else? Once it starts, the fuel drips under #2 and #3 and seems to be coming from the middle of the carbs. Where is the fuel supposed to leak out if it is a stuck float? (I plan to replace the remaining needle/valves before I wrestle it back in) Thank you.
Dude thank you so much first time rebuilding a carb and was able to follow really clear. If anyone knows a good battery / electrical video let me know. Nothin g was hooked up when I bought the bike. You the man !
I am working on 1983 GS450L and it has the Minuku carbs on it, i,m sure different jets and things from the 550. But my question is about the fuel control needle. I have torn a few carbs apart and have never seen one that has no connection of the needle to the float assembly, so it just opens from the fuel flow? The float does not pull it down? Great video by the way, I prefer detail over some of these guys skipping over what they may think is unimportant. They don't realize the big majority of watchers are inexperienced knuckle busters such as myself. Have a 550 to do next so really glad I found this.
Correct some do not have a tab to "pull" the needle down as that is forced down from fuel pressure and gravity. Im glad you found the videos helpful though as I do try to pack in the details
Hey boss, man. I'm in need of some extra special help with my 81 Suzuki GS550T. I've gotten it rideable but kept having an issue with idle and syncing the fuel mixture for all 4 carbs. Turns out #3's fuel screw was tightened down too hard, and the brass tip is stuck at the bottom. Your videos have helped me through so much and inspired me to tackle this beast. I feel broken at this point because I have found no solution. Do you have any tips or guidance? I'm dying to ride finally.
I noticed when you reassembled your bowl, you didn’t put the seal back that’s on top of the aluminum cylinder that acts like a check valve. (It is right under the portion of the gasket that protrudes from the rectangular shape). You can see it as the bright aluminum circle right before you lay the gasket over it at 31:28. When I took mine apart I had a small circular rubber seal with squared edges that sat right on top of that. Did you not have one/ did you remove that cylinder to clean? Also - thanks so much for making this line of videos. It has helped me a ton with my bike.
I Bought a gs550 but the carbonator was pretty much sitting in a bucket of water of a parts bin. when i opened it up it had so much rust gunk that i couldn't tell what was brass.
Thanks for the great demo! I have exactly the same bike! I removed the carbs and I noticed two black, plastic "tube intakes" between carbs 1 and 2 and between 3 and 4. What are they doing there, should they be connected to something?
If you haven't seen the 2 previous videos on these carbs maybe check that out. I show removal and disassembly. What you are asking about are likely vents to atmosphere
@@BrickHouseBuilds I put a different set of carbs on and have the opposite problem now I think the main jets crush wash wasn’t sealing and leaking straight past into the emulsion tube. It’s just float height for the new carbs appreciate the response though man love the content
Happy you found it helpful! I used cycleorings.com but checking last week said they are not in operation so I'm not sure where to reccomend. If you search for gs550 carb orings you will find forums with good info
@@BrickHouseBuilds thanks for the Speedy reply yeah I've checked every store possible to find the right O-rings no luck they must be some odd size I will look into the other info thanks again Another question I just thought of do I have to use the factory shut off has two lines Fuel and vacuum or can I use some kind of pulse pump lol it's a project I'm working on
@@madmachine3938 you don't have to use a vacuum petcock. Those were only designed as people cant remember to shut the fuel off with a manual one. Use what you want as long as it flows enough and doesn't create actual pressure
I am rebuilding the carbs on my GS550L now. The rebuild kit I bought - the pilot jets don’t have the perforation holes on the sides. Just the through hole lengthwise. From my understanding these holes are used for adjusting the air fuel mixture by feeding air through those side holes into the pilot jets at lower RPMs - but only when you have an air screw for adjustment on the air box side of your carbs. I don’t see that on the OEM carbs. What’s your opinion if this pilot jet would be okay to use?
Hey sorry could you clarify where you measured float height - seems there is competing info online, did you mean from the well where the gasket sits, to the max top height of the float (part where the metal is fused to the plastic)? or did you mean the rise (or "lip') of the gasket well to the max top height? And could you please indicate mm value, just so I know, thanks!!!
You always measure from the body surface where the gasket would lie to the top of the float. I don't have the service manual near me which has all of this information in it. I always recommend buying a service manual with any motorcycle.
Hey boss! Any links to carb sync tutorials? I'm having issues from 1/4 to full throttle (thinking needle position), and I'm having a knocking issue. Already cleaned like crazy and got bigger jets to compensate for the pod filters I got.
I have seen his yes. I try to keep up with so many channels as I value what everyone creates. It just unfortunate I can't watch everyone's content all the time.
Very helpful, this is the next project to tackle. Got the body work all done on the gas tank. Any advice for rejetting the carb to run pod filters and a 4 into 1 exhaust?
Hey Ben glad this was helpful. For intake/exhaust jetting here are my tips: Buy quality pods - not Amazon. Look for UNI, k&n, DNA. The same advice goes for jets. Expect to buy multiple sets of mains and multiple sets of pilots as you will have to make changes as you go. EXPECT to not get it right the first time, 2nd time, or 3rd time. Make sure carbs are synced and there are no simple issues.. Start with tuning the idle circuit using mixture screws and pilot changes if necessary. Then start working on part throttle which can be tricky if you don't have adjustable needles. Then focus on WOT main jet tuning paying close attention to the plus and timing marks. ONE CHANGE AT A TIME! Adjusting mixture settings is one change. A different pilot jet is one change, etc. Write changes down and test.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Awesome, thanks for the advice! Was going to buy those K&N filters from the start. Was going to go the ebay route with the jets, would make since to buy the higher quality jets from the start as well.
There was a set of jets pilot jets you put in under the rubber plug ..you said make sure you've got the 6 hole instead of the 8..what does the engine do if you've got the wrong jet in it ..what it's symptom..?? I've got a 1980 Suzuki GS 850 L ..had the carbs apart cleaned..adjusted jets and needle height several times .. Starts and runs at idle ..after 1/4 throttle just looses power ..bogs out ..won't build rpms ..with pod filers..no filter ..air box on ..the only way it'll build rpms is if I close off air inlet to air box .. After seeing this video ..wondering if this jet may be my problem..oh..it has 4 into 1 pipe ..has muffler in it ..
The holes dictate how much fuel passes through that jet so they need to be correct. I believe I saw your question on a Suzuki GS page yesterday actually. To me, without being there it sounds like your slides are not moving as they should. Possibly a poor seal on the diaphragm sealing surface, torn diaphragm, blocked vents, needles dragging on the emulsion tubes, etc. If the slides don't rise you will not get adequate fuel. When you block off the inlet you are creating more of a vacuum across the carburetors which is raising your slides. Not a jetting thing. This is also only if all things are set correctly. Set your floats to exactly factory spec and all exactly the same...exactly the same. All mixture screws the same, no air leaks, then vacuum synced. ONE CAHNGE AT A TIME. Write down your results like a science journal.
@@BrickHouseBuilds excellent.. Thanks... Yes I posted there too.. Diaphragms appear to working properly.. Raise slide ..plug off a port with my finger and it'll stop and hold .. Doesn't appear to be binding..I cleaned stems/jets .. I'm in the process of shimming up stems ..since they're not adjustable.. If I changed the air jets ..would that be part of the problem.. We're 180..had problem..changed to 190..no difference ..
Where does the vacuum for the 4 internal constant velocity spring loaded diaphragm's get supplied from? I didn't see any vacuum lines going to the carburetors. Are there internal lines within the carburetors?
The vacuum comes from the intake pulse. The piston moves down as the intake valve opens and draws air through the carburetor. That is the vacuum pulse which raises the slides
Doing this on my gs650gl that I actually also got for free haha. How do you know when the mixture screws are properly “seated”? I took a photo of each one before taking apart the carbs and counted the threads and because they were never taken apart I’m assuming they’ll be pretty close to factory. I know I’ll have to adjust them when I go to sync them all I just didn’t want to break the needle if I screw them in too far.
You can just tell. As you thread them in theybare smooth and consistent in the force required to turn them and then you feel a resistance. Stop immediately and start backing the needle out while counting the turns. These will always be set the same amount for all 4 carbs. Sync screws are different
So I have almost identical carbs on my bike 85 xj700 (Mikuni) b33 I think) and I noticed when fixing a float leak issue that the pilot jets dont have the rubber plugs on them. The bike has pretty much always ran fine with out them. Should I get some plugs? The previous owner rebuilt/restored the bike so I feel like he might of known what he was doing or just forgot lol.
You should look at some parts diagrams to see if they are needed. Some carbs don't use them. Usually if you have a passage from your pilot to second you would need them.
That acid is a common pool chemical. Used to balance the PH is swimming pools. If you do your own service it's no big deal to use that stuff. i remember it's nasty smell though.
@@BrickHouseBuilds it was to get the PH balanced. Which checks the alkaline/acid balance. If the water was too alkaline (chlorinated) we'd add muriatic acid to bring up the acid level. Over time the chlorine would fade away and it would become balanced. But if you're having a pool party and need it balanced fast, adding in some acid will fix it. No one likes swimming in an over chlorinated poos, burns your eyes, strong smell of chorine.
Hi, i'm really enjoying your videos. I was wondering if you could answer my question. Can i sand the top and bottom covers? If not how may i clean those ones? Thank you.
I'm sorry you are right. I'v seen i can Simply polish the outside with sanding paper and metal polish. But i have a another question about carbs. Did you balance the carbs valves? If yes did you find some pressure values because in the manual it is user an old vacuum gauge that has no values but spheres.thank you very mauch for your help.✌️
@andreacesare9603 that process is called syncing. You are making sure each cylinder has equal vacuum. The number is not as important as having them all equal
Thank you for all the time you put into these videos. My son and I just picked up a GS550L that we plan on turning into a cafe racer. Is there a way to find what year the bike was made? The only markings I can find are on the engine. GS550-236599. We have the carb all pulled apart and cleaned, ready for rebuild but need to know what parts to buy based on year. Thanks Allen
Well thank you for watching! On the steering neck you should see the vin stamped as well as a metallic plate with the build info on it. It will have a month/year for manufacturing. It may have been rubbed off or accidentally removed as Suzuki didn't make them very durable
@@topnotcharms1 check out the colors and stripping, as it will change from year to year. May help narrow it down, if original colors are there of course.
The rubber passage plugs need to be in these carburetors to control fuel flow. Not all carburetors have them. Your service manual or parts diagram on partzilla will show if your bike requires them.
Are you offering carb rebuilding services ? I have a 79 gs850 idk how to adjust air fuel screws or adjust anything they need completely rebuilt. Thanks
They may not need to be rebuilt. Often they are out of adjustment as people don't know what to do. There is a ton of info at your fingertips to help guide you
I need fuel "T" and 2 smaller straight tubes for a '78 gs 1000e model. Any idea on where to get them. Got a T but no luck on 2 others pieces. Help carbs are apart ! I have 4 other 1000s i will probably needs for, then 3 750s also.
Informative video, what are those rubber plugs for covering the pilot jets? I have the same carbs on a 80 Suzuki gs250 but it doesn't have those, mine idles fine but has no top end, like the slides arent opening, thanks
The carburetor bodies are often the same casting between bikes but some models have a different pilot circuit. Depending on what pilot circuit there is, you may or may not have the passage plugs.
@@BrickHouseBuilds I've also heard about drilling the slides when installing pod filters, I have the factory air box now with a stock filter, if there is not enough restriction, I'm not sure if drilling is the answer, and hard to undrill if it makes it worse, wishing had a second set of carbs to play with, thanks for the help
Thank got I found a vid that shows the same exact carb as mine... Just a question, are the jet plugs really needed? Cause mine doesn't have one, the bike runs and all with out it, I just want to be sure
Hey Ed! Some carbs do not use the plugs as the transfer tubes are different between models even when they use the same carb bodies. If you see a small hole running between the tubes where the plug and jets would go you likely need the rubber plugs.
@@BrickHouseBuilds thanks, I'll check on that, I can't remember if it has that small hall between the tubes, one thing I notice the carb on your vid looks exactly like mine even the other parts, that's why I am assuming I need those plugs, plus my bike idles fine, but cruise like crap but when I crack the throttle maybe 1/4 it runs great and I could feel the sudden burst of power... BTW my bike is a suzuki gs750es
I don't believe you said what you put in place; in the aluminum part you drilled out for the idle jet. Just wondering. did you epoxy over them and put them back in place or find new ones. Thanks
You don't need any sort of cover. Those are just there from the factory as part of an epa mandate in the 70s/80s so people wouldn't mess with the mix. Remove them and don't look back.
Did you have any hanging idle issues ? I have an 82 GS550L and It won’t return to idle if I rev over 2k rpm. It doesn’t seem to change when I adjust the mixture screws on the carbs. It’s been very frustrating. Lol
That sounds like a lean issue. Possible air leak around the intake manifolds or the mixture is far out. The carbs must be in sync and all mixture settings must be the same for each carb
Hey Gavin, check randakkas, z1 enterprises, or even partzilla for parts. K&l makes a lot of kits as well. Just take your time and know exactly what kit you need as there are many.
I've got an 81 gs 850 ..carbs keep leaking .. Must have pulled them apart and reassembled 15-18 times in the last 14 days ..keeps acting like floats aren't doing there thing by shutting off furl...pouring out gas through air intake and air jets ...ive set and reset floats as many times as I've had it apart ... Any suggestions ...anyone .. Originally just cleaned up clogged jets and ports ..ive got a carb kit in it with new jets ..
A- are they brass floats and are they leaking fuel inside of them B-Are the needles in good shape? C- Are your fuel lines connected to the correct spot? There are fuel inlet ports as well as larger vacuum ports when can be confused.
@@BrickHouseBuilds needles are in good shape .. Also installed new needle kit .. Float are the black backolite style floats .. Going to check on my fuel hook up ..pretty sure I'm on fuel hookup ..not vacuum... 😉👏👍 Thanks .. 2 vacuum lines and one fuel line ..
Update .. Got floats working properly .. Doesn't leak at idle anymore .. Now it runs ..won't go past 1/4 throttle ..with air box..without ..no vacuum leaks ..it's got a 4 into one exhaust ..it's got #115 and #40 jets ..idle screws were at 2 turns out ..went to 4 turns out ..no better no worse .. Any advice ..?? Changed out air jets from 190 to 180..made a slight impovement.improvement.. I'm wondering if I should solder them closed..drill the jets out to 170..?? Or drill out main jets from 120 to 125..??
Hey there. We just got a gs550. it's 1982 looks like the same carb set up. We are missing some fuel and vacuume lines some one else removed them and they are gone. so questions
Center lower connection they had the fuel line connected? correct? left and right there are connections for lines that can pivot front and back where do these connect to? on the tank there are 3 connections one seems main fuel line. Next to that is a smaller line= reserve? last is what vacuume to in tank float? any tips would be great. the lines are just gone. Also if I look at the carbs which is considered carb #1 ? thanks bud.
Please be sure to purchase a service manual for your bike. It will answer all of these questions and more. They are well worth the money for proper diagnosis of things
@@MAKAROVOWNER I'm sorry I get dozens of tech requests daily and simply can't get back to them all. I ALWAYS recommend buying a service manual and working to find solutions as you actually learn that way. I do my best to provide a lot of solid information on here but simply can't diagnose, suggest repairs, search out parts, etc for everyone that requests it and still get my own work done. I apologize
@@BrickHouseBuilds Its ok. Figured since you presented the video you could likely point me the right way like boom boom boom. And in answering my question would in fact answer the same question for others. Kinda like center line is main fuel to tank.. Small top line to tank. Off center left and right are open ended lines that should the bike tip the carbs empty. Done deal. I do want to say thank you for your videos. They are informative and enjoyable. What awesome bikes with quad carbs and inline 4 cylinders. Look pretty bullet proof. Have a good day.
hey bud ive got the 1980 750 l and its running rich i see theres only one groove on the needles how do i adjust it leaner its sooting the new plugs its only fine soot and consisitant on all plugs its got 4 into 1 pipe and single foam filter and factory airbox ????
@@BrickHouseBuilds suzuki how can the pilot jet be in the wrong spot ?? whats the amount of turns factory ? and do i turn them in or out to lean ? theres only 3 of the carbs with mixture screw provisions the 3rd one is b a blank
@tat2dpom some carbs have jets that can thread into either which is why I asked what manufacturer it was. If you haven't seen the disassembly and cleaning videos before this I very much recommend you check them out. I show how to remove the mixture screw covers (your carb has it) and go through them. Definitely buy a service manual as it will state important stuff like this as I don't know what the factory settings are
Hey, I'm working on an 82 gs850. Same carbs. I see a tear in one of my slides diaphragms, is that an easy replacement or do I have to find a new slides?
Well I figured it out. I found replacements at jbm industries. Requires me to cut off the old diaphragms and retention plastic, but hey I'm willing to see if it works.
I have the same carbs as you and I have a problem, the first two lose petrol but the tank gasket is fine, the needle and the float also do their duty, but nevertheless it loses fuel, what can I do? I thank you!
@BrickHouseBuilds carbs are back together, and it's running lean with my new pod filters on. Does tightening or loosening the fuel screw make it more rich? I'm getting conflicting info everywhere.
@justinbond9327 watch this video from Cody motorcycle MD. There will be no confusion afterwards. Also note that cheap pod filters on cv carbs do not mix. You may want to make sure the bike runs well without them first before making the switch th-cam.com/video/q9A2TL9RvwQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=nG5c1DAFb_4ddGAo
@@BrickHouseBuilds I wish I could I show you on the set of carb I got same one u got I think the guy before tried to clean or fix them but is missing a the retainer on one of the needle
I bought a 1985 GS700ES and the carb set up is exactly the same. This whole build playlist has helped me immensely with my project. Bravo and thank you.
Awesome to hear! That 700es is one of the coolest looking Zukis ever!
Just the info I needed.
Doing 850gs carbs. Taken apart years ago. Life and cancer got in the way. FYI 3dot break fluid is excellent for rubber.
Detail shots were awesome.
Thank you for you work on this.
Glad you found it helpful!
I just picked up a 1980 GS550L and I need to rebuild the carburetors. Thanks for the info. Your videos are great.
Glad you found them helpful!
Get some JIS screwdrivers or fail...
Ask me how I know... 😔
Thanks you're 100% right. Someone else has already butchered the screw heads. I bought a new set. Just finished the bike and runs amazing.
You're a lifesaver, i couldn't find any resources for the CV top carbs on my gs550l, this is better than a diagram!
Well I'm glad the videos help!
Great video on the work bench sequences. I learned quite a bit. Also, glad to see you are being careful with chemicals. When I worked for Sunnen Products in the 1970s we used 1,1,1-trichloroethylene in the ultrasound machine and for degreasing. Maybe you have something safer now. I hope so. Very dangerous. I think '111-trich" is still out there in the motorcycling world as an additive for dirt bike air filter oil to help it flow. You can avoid contact by putting the foam filter in a plastic freezer bag and work the oil into it, then squeeze the excess back into the bottle. And I would go so far as to say don't try to clean dirty foam filters with solvents, especially "111-trich".
Brother, don't to worry about the details, with phone or camera, your videos are amazing, so much value and content, keep doing what you are doing, thank you so much for the knowledge !! ✌💖
Well the phone camera is why you see details. Other videos I mainly use my gopro which can't get details and people complain understandably
Thank you! My GS650G lives on !
Heck yeah!
Thanks for the information. I have a 1982 SUZUKI GS 550 L that I rescued, and my next job is to pull and rebuild the carbs. Now, it fires on #3 and #4 but not on #1 or #2. After I run it for a minute or more, gas ends up in the exhaust pipes. Carb issue? By the way, I cleaned the tank of rust by first cleaning it with Spray 9 and then Metal Rescue. It worked well. Thanks for not talking insessantly or playing background music like some of the other presenters. Much appreciated, Michael
Have you confirmed spark on all 4?
Close up shoots are very helpful. For this and your wiring episodes.
That they are. I've since bought a better camera to do better on that front
@@BrickHouseBuilds nice, I'm a couple years behind on videos. But comments appease the all mighty algorithm.
@@junkyardzombie13 no worries at all
I just bought a gs550 from someone who couldn't tune the carbs and played with jetting, this is awesome. Hopefully he didn't strip too many phillips :p thanks for the vids, these are great
I appreciate you watching them, happy they are helpful!
Problem no 1. They aren’t Phillips heads . They are JIS screw. Big difference
Oh yea. Definitely the carbs on the nighthawk. Just going there first. The Bandit ~ I think I'm looking at new rubber around the carbs. Like very very new manifold material. The Bandit has some of this and some of that but I think the engine is "OK". ~. Scary. Thank you ! Again and again and again. I don't know what to say. "Bless me father, for I have sinned."
Thanks a lot for your videos,
It's nice and relaxing just watching them
you convince me everytime to take the plunge and buy myself an old, non-rolling motorbike 😀
Thanks again,
going to continue watching, let see (if - of course - and) how it's running ;-)
Well I'm glad thr videos give you that confidence that's awesome!
Trying not to bore you with the details. The Bandit is registered and I have the plate. The Nighthawk is registered and I have the plate. The Bandit will be for sale. The problem I have is maybe not the Bandit (for sale) but the Nighthawk. I thought I had the Bandit sold twice on fb MP. Now the paperwork is nice and neat. Next is to start it. Then who knows? So much fun. Thank you so much BJ!
That was a good help.... my GS650G - Katana is running smooth now! Thanks
Awesome to hear!
When using muriatic acid, ventilate. Open door run fan on low. Work close to the door. Store acid outside.
I guess it keeps things interesting, but when I was researching carbs, I was so annoyed by the many different layouts.
As well as things having different names.
It was nice hearing you mention the little things that I did (as well) on my own that was right.
When actually watching this, I was amazed with everything that I got right, and I actually wondered how I knew some of the stuff (like the assembly sequence for the mixture screw).
I guess that's what happens with a lot of research and a workshop manual .
You did it right because you took your time, did your research, and were organized. Many don't do that and then say cv carbs suck
Just came across this video. Now looking forward to getting the carbs off (81 GS550) & checking them. I paid someone to repair/rebuild them last year & it ran great after. Then after I let it sit about 5 wks the carbs started leaking whenever you start it...and I assume that it is the floats sticking? Gas pretty much just flows out of 2 of them after a few seconds of running. This video will certainly be a help. Thanks for posting it.
Im happy to hear its helpful! Yes, stuck float. Simply tap on the carb bodies with the handle end of a screwdriver and it will hopefully stop. If not it has some debris in the bowls
I know you are busy, but maybe you will see this: I replaced the needle & seat(of what I thought was the offending carb...#2) & all bowl gaskets, put the carbs back in then it leaked worse :(
Maybe it's leaking somewhere else? Once it starts, the fuel drips under #2 and #3 and seems to be coming from the middle of the carbs. Where is the fuel supposed to leak out if it is a stuck float?
(I plan to replace the remaining needle/valves before I wrestle it back in) Thank you.
Discovered that the fuel inlet tubes between 1&2 and 3&4 were the leaking culprits. Now just waiting on some o-rings and JIS set to give it a try.
Dude thank you so much first time rebuilding a carb and was able to follow really clear. If anyone knows a good battery / electrical video let me know. Nothin g was hooked up when I bought the bike. You the man !
I have a full wiring playlist that goes through fundamentals and diag stuff you will find helpful
th-cam.com/video/R1O4dJKJZgo/w-d-xo.html
I am working on 1983 GS450L and it has the Minuku carbs on it, i,m sure different jets and things from the 550. But my question is about the fuel control needle. I have torn a few carbs apart and have never seen one that has no connection of the needle to the float assembly, so it just opens from the fuel flow? The float does not pull it down? Great video by the way, I prefer detail over some of these guys skipping over what they may think is unimportant. They don't realize the big majority of watchers are inexperienced knuckle busters such as myself. Have a 550 to do next so really glad I found this.
Correct some do not have a tab to "pull" the needle down as that is forced down from fuel pressure and gravity. Im glad you found the videos helpful though as I do try to pack in the details
Those type of oops moments are heartbreaking, as they’re so unexpected 😢
Wow…I’ve learned so much…I didn’t know what I didn’t know!
Hey boss, man. I'm in need of some extra special help with my 81 Suzuki GS550T. I've gotten it rideable but kept having an issue with idle and syncing the fuel mixture for all 4 carbs. Turns out #3's fuel screw was tightened down too hard, and the brass tip is stuck at the bottom. Your videos have helped me through so much and inspired me to tackle this beast. I feel broken at this point because I have found no solution. Do you have any tips or guidance? I'm dying to ride finally.
I noticed when you reassembled your bowl, you didn’t put the seal back that’s on top of the aluminum cylinder that acts like a check valve. (It is right under the portion of the gasket that protrudes from the rectangular shape). You can see it as the bright aluminum circle right before you lay the gasket over it at 31:28. When I took mine apart I had a small circular rubber seal with squared edges that sat right on top of that. Did you not have one/ did you remove that cylinder to clean?
Also - thanks so much for making this line of videos. It has helped me a ton with my bike.
Not sure what you mean. The black rubber passage plugs are shown being installed before the bowl gaskets. There are no other parts of the bowl gaskets
I Bought a gs550 but the carbonator was pretty much sitting in a bucket of water of a parts bin. when i opened it up it had so much rust gunk that i couldn't tell what was brass.
Thats not fun!
Good explanations and detailed camera work. Thanks for the video!
Thank you much!
Thanks for the great demo! I have exactly the same bike! I removed the carbs and I noticed two black, plastic "tube intakes" between carbs 1 and 2 and between 3 and 4. What are they doing there, should they be connected to something?
If you haven't seen the 2 previous videos on these carbs maybe check that out. I show removal and disassembly. What you are asking about are likely vents to atmosphere
Got the same carbs on my gs650gl mine run rich past 6-7k no matter what even if I have the float level set leaner than spec
Have you tried smaller main jets?
@@BrickHouseBuilds I put a different set of carbs on and have the opposite problem now I think the main jets crush wash wasn’t sealing and leaking straight past into the emulsion tube. It’s just float height for the new carbs appreciate the response though man love the content
Hi BJ. On my GS550 L I have my pilot jet screws set to 3 1/2 turns out which is the correct manual setting. Regards Ray in the UK.
What book to buy with all specifications
@@zakbrinkhoff324 Try the Haynes manual GS750/550 Fours.
Awesome video helped me tremendously rebuild my carburetors the only thing I can't find are the fuel T rings and the choke rubber cap
Happy you found it helpful! I used cycleorings.com but checking last week said they are not in operation so I'm not sure where to reccomend. If you search for gs550 carb orings you will find forums with good info
@@BrickHouseBuilds thanks for the Speedy reply yeah I've checked every store possible to find the right O-rings no luck they must be some odd size I will look into the other info thanks again
Another question I just thought of do I have to use the factory shut off has two lines Fuel and vacuum or can I use some kind of pulse pump lol it's a project I'm working on
@@madmachine3938 the vacuum petcock is a pulse pump
@@BrickHouseBuilds
Ok. So if I were to use a different tank I would have to use the Factory petcock make these carbs work
@@madmachine3938 you don't have to use a vacuum petcock. Those were only designed as people cant remember to shut the fuel off with a manual one. Use what you want as long as it flows enough and doesn't create actual pressure
Really really good video. I will watch more and try to learn. I have GSX750E as cafe racer. 🙂
Very cool! I appreciate you checking the video out
Hi… would you please the part numbers and where you bought them? Thanks
I am rebuilding the carbs on my GS550L now. The rebuild kit I bought - the pilot jets don’t have the perforation holes on the sides. Just the through hole lengthwise. From my understanding these holes are used for adjusting the air fuel mixture by feeding air through those side holes into the pilot jets at lower RPMs - but only when you have an air screw for adjustment on the air box side of your carbs. I don’t see that on the OEM carbs. What’s your opinion if this pilot jet would be okay to use?
You need to use exactly what your carb came with. There is very much a difference
Hey sorry could you clarify where you measured float height - seems there is competing info online, did you mean from the well where the gasket sits, to the max top height of the float (part where the metal is fused to the plastic)? or did you mean the rise (or "lip') of the gasket well to the max top height? And could you please indicate mm value, just so I know, thanks!!!
You always measure from the body surface where the gasket would lie to the top of the float. I don't have the service manual near me which has all of this information in it. I always recommend buying a service manual with any motorcycle.
Hey boss! Any links to carb sync tutorials? I'm having issues from 1/4 to full throttle (thinking needle position), and I'm having a knocking issue. Already cleaned like crazy and got bigger jets to compensate for the pod filters I got.
I’ve noticed you like a few British channels have you checked out the doghouse. Craigs metal work and channel is great. Ps great channel too
I have seen his yes. I try to keep up with so many channels as I value what everyone creates. It just unfortunate I can't watch everyone's content all the time.
Very helpful, this is the next project to tackle. Got the body work all done on the gas tank. Any advice for rejetting the carb to run pod filters and a 4 into 1 exhaust?
Hey Ben glad this was helpful. For intake/exhaust jetting here are my tips: Buy quality pods - not Amazon. Look for UNI, k&n, DNA. The same advice goes for jets. Expect to buy multiple sets of mains and multiple sets of pilots as you will have to make changes as you go. EXPECT to not get it right the first time, 2nd time, or 3rd time. Make sure carbs are synced and there are no simple issues.. Start with tuning the idle circuit using mixture screws and pilot changes if necessary. Then start working on part throttle which can be tricky if you don't have adjustable needles. Then focus on WOT main jet tuning paying close attention to the plus and timing marks. ONE CHANGE AT A TIME! Adjusting mixture settings is one change. A different pilot jet is one change, etc. Write changes down and test.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Awesome, thanks for the advice! Was going to buy those K&N filters from the start. Was going to go the ebay route with the jets, would make since to buy the higher quality jets from the start as well.
There was a set of jets pilot jets you put in under the rubber plug ..you said make sure you've got the 6 hole instead of the 8..what does the engine do if you've got the wrong jet in it ..what it's symptom..??
I've got a 1980 Suzuki GS 850 L ..had the carbs apart cleaned..adjusted jets and needle height several times ..
Starts and runs at idle ..after 1/4 throttle just looses power ..bogs out ..won't build rpms ..with pod filers..no filter ..air box on ..the only way it'll build rpms is if I close off air inlet to air box ..
After seeing this video ..wondering if this jet may be my problem..oh..it has 4 into 1 pipe ..has muffler in it ..
The holes dictate how much fuel passes through that jet so they need to be correct. I believe I saw your question on a Suzuki GS page yesterday actually. To me, without being there it sounds like your slides are not moving as they should. Possibly a poor seal on the diaphragm sealing surface, torn diaphragm, blocked vents, needles dragging on the emulsion tubes, etc. If the slides don't rise you will not get adequate fuel. When you block off the inlet you are creating more of a vacuum across the carburetors which is raising your slides. Not a jetting thing. This is also only if all things are set correctly. Set your floats to exactly factory spec and all exactly the same...exactly the same. All mixture screws the same, no air leaks, then vacuum synced. ONE CAHNGE AT A TIME. Write down your results like a science journal.
@@BrickHouseBuilds excellent..
Thanks...
Yes I posted there too..
Diaphragms appear to working properly..
Raise slide ..plug off a port with my finger and it'll stop and hold ..
Doesn't appear to be binding..I cleaned stems/jets ..
I'm in the process of shimming up stems ..since they're not adjustable..
If I changed the air jets ..would that be part of the problem..
We're 180..had problem..changed to 190..no difference ..
Have you considered ignition? Possibly not advancing or a dead spark unit
You are a mother f-in genius! Nice nails by the way.
Much appreciated 🤘
top job mate
Where does the vacuum for the 4 internal constant velocity spring loaded diaphragm's get supplied from? I didn't see any vacuum lines going to the carburetors. Are there internal lines within the carburetors?
The vacuum comes from the intake pulse. The piston moves down as the intake valve opens and draws air through the carburetor. That is the vacuum pulse which raises the slides
Doing this on my gs650gl that I actually also got for free haha. How do you know when the mixture screws are properly “seated”? I took a photo of each one before taking apart the carbs and counted the threads and because they were never taken apart I’m assuming they’ll be pretty close to factory. I know I’ll have to adjust them when I go to sync them all I just didn’t want to break the needle if I screw them in too far.
You can just tell. As you thread them in theybare smooth and consistent in the force required to turn them and then you feel a resistance. Stop immediately and start backing the needle out while counting the turns. These will always be set the same amount for all 4 carbs. Sync screws are different
So I have almost identical carbs on my bike 85 xj700 (Mikuni) b33 I think) and I noticed when fixing a float leak issue that the pilot jets dont have the rubber plugs on them. The bike has pretty much always ran fine with out them. Should I get some plugs? The previous owner rebuilt/restored the bike so I feel like he might of known what he was doing or just forgot lol.
You should look at some parts diagrams to see if they are needed. Some carbs don't use them. Usually if you have a passage from your pilot to second you would need them.
That acid is a common pool chemical. Used to balance the PH is swimming pools. If you do your own service it's no big deal to use that stuff. i remember it's nasty smell though.
Muratic is common for cleaning pools? That stuff indeed smells horrid.
@@BrickHouseBuilds it was to get the PH balanced. Which checks the alkaline/acid balance. If the water was too alkaline (chlorinated) we'd add muriatic acid to bring up the acid level. Over time the chlorine would fade away and it would become balanced. But if you're having a pool party and need it balanced fast, adding in some acid will fix it. No one likes swimming in an over chlorinated poos, burns your eyes, strong smell of chorine.
@@tedstriker754 are you not confusing it with Hydrochoric Acid, which is used in swimming pools?
@@tiggerkzn no not at all, it was Muriatic acid for sure. Hydrochloric I believe is battery acid.
@@tedstriker754 sulfuric acid in batteries, hydrochloric in pools
Hi, i'm really enjoying your videos. I was wondering if you could answer my question. Can i sand the top and bottom covers? If not how may i clean those ones? Thank you.
I guess I need a bit more clarity on your question. Are you wanting to clean the inside or outside?
I'm sorry you are right. I'v seen i can Simply polish the outside with sanding paper and metal polish. But i have a another question about carbs. Did you balance the carbs valves? If yes did you find some pressure values because in the manual it is user an old vacuum gauge that has no values but spheres.thank you very mauch for your help.✌️
@andreacesare9603 that process is called syncing. You are making sure each cylinder has equal vacuum. The number is not as important as having them all equal
Thanks youuuuu!!!!!
Thank you for all the time you put into these videos. My son and I just picked up a GS550L that we plan on turning into a cafe racer. Is there a way to find what year the bike was made? The only markings I can find are on the engine. GS550-236599. We have the carb all pulled apart and cleaned, ready for rebuild but need to know what parts to buy based on year. Thanks
Allen
Well thank you for watching! On the steering neck you should see the vin stamped as well as a metallic plate with the build info on it. It will have a month/year for manufacturing. It may have been rubbed off or accidentally removed as Suzuki didn't make them very durable
@@BrickHouseBuilds Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the plate is not there. The only thing I can find is the serial number on the engine.
@@topnotcharms1 Yea thats unfortunate. The vin number will still be stamped on the frame though
@@BrickHouseBuilds thank you, I will dig a tad deeper. Once again thx for the great videos. Truly very helpful.
@@topnotcharms1 check out the colors and stripping, as it will change from year to year. May help narrow it down, if original colors are there of course.
Hello, I have a question, why did you put 4 plugs? It affects something not having them when trying them
The rubber passage plugs need to be in these carburetors to control fuel flow. Not all carburetors have them. Your service manual or parts diagram on partzilla will show if your bike requires them.
Are you offering carb rebuilding services ? I have a 79 gs850 idk how to adjust air fuel screws or adjust anything they need completely rebuilt. Thanks
They may not need to be rebuilt. Often they are out of adjustment as people don't know what to do. There is a ton of info at your fingertips to help guide you
I need fuel "T" and 2 smaller straight tubes for a '78 gs 1000e model. Any idea on where to get them. Got a T but no luck on 2 others pieces. Help carbs are apart ! I have 4 other 1000s i will probably needs for, then 3 750s also.
Well I'd worry my parts recommendation wouldn't suit a purist so Ill just refrain from helping here. ;)
Thankyou so much ppl sucking at getting good angles
Thank ya
Informative video, what are those rubber plugs for covering the pilot jets? I have the same carbs on a 80 Suzuki gs250 but it doesn't have those, mine idles fine but has no top end, like the slides arent opening, thanks
The carburetor bodies are often the same casting between bikes but some models have a different pilot circuit. Depending on what pilot circuit there is, you may or may not have the passage plugs.
If your slides aren't opening you may not have an adequate air filter.
@@BrickHouseBuilds thanks, I've taken the air filter off, thinking there was too much restriction, haven't tried more restriction, I'll try that next
@@BrickHouseBuilds I've also heard about drilling the slides when installing pod filters, I have the factory air box now with a stock filter, if there is not enough restriction, I'm not sure if drilling is the answer, and hard to undrill if it makes it worse, wishing had a second set of carbs to play with, thanks for the help
Do you remember the float height spec
From memory no. Quick Google search will do it though
Thank got I found a vid that shows the same exact carb as mine... Just a question, are the jet plugs really needed? Cause mine doesn't have one, the bike runs and all with out it, I just want to be sure
Hey Ed! Some carbs do not use the plugs as the transfer tubes are different between models even when they use the same carb bodies. If you see a small hole running between the tubes where the plug and jets would go you likely need the rubber plugs.
@@BrickHouseBuilds thanks, I'll check on that, I can't remember if it has that small hall between the tubes, one thing I notice the carb on your vid looks exactly like mine even the other parts, that's why I am assuming I need those plugs, plus my bike idles fine, but cruise like crap but when I crack the throttle maybe 1/4 it runs great and I could feel the sudden burst of power... BTW my bike is a suzuki gs750es
I don't believe you said what you put in place; in the aluminum part you drilled out for the idle jet. Just wondering. did you epoxy over them and put them back in place or find new ones. Thanks
You don't need any sort of cover. Those are just there from the factory as part of an epa mandate in the 70s/80s so people wouldn't mess with the mix. Remove them and don't look back.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Thanks, Have a Bless Day.
BONNE VIDEO TRES PRATIQUE MCI
Thank you!
I'm sorry if you said it in the video, but do you know if the adjustment on top on the engine side is an air or fuel bleed?
That I do not recall. It would normally be in your service manual.
Would have been helpful if you would have actually shown measuring the float height and where
You measure from the carb surface that the bowl gasket sits on to the top of the float itself at the highest point.
Great detailed video BJ. Enjoyed watching it.
I appreciate it! These carb videos aren't exciting but they should help people for sure. First start video goes live soon!
Did you have any hanging idle issues ? I have an 82 GS550L and It won’t return to idle if I rev over 2k rpm. It doesn’t seem to change when I adjust the mixture screws on the carbs. It’s been very frustrating. Lol
That sounds like a lean issue. Possible air leak around the intake manifolds or the mixture is far out. The carbs must be in sync and all mixture settings must be the same for each carb
@@BrickHouseBuilds looks like I need to invest in some tools. Color tune and some vacuum gauges. Thanks for the info!
@@413Garage I've never used a color tune. Set the mix at the factory setup and make small adjustments from there
Hey I was wondering where to get parts at for a full rebuild?
Hey Gavin, check randakkas, z1 enterprises, or even partzilla for parts. K&l makes a lot of kits as well. Just take your time and know exactly what kit you need as there are many.
Whats the spec for the floats? I didnt notice that mentioned
Factory height
Hello ..wondering the float height ? what is the optimal setting..? :)
Per the service manual for the BS32 carbs like these the level is 21.4-23.4mm Be sure they are the same for all 4 and don't vary.
I've got an 81 gs 850 ..carbs keep leaking ..
Must have pulled them apart and reassembled 15-18 times in the last 14 days ..keeps acting like floats aren't doing there thing by shutting off furl...pouring out gas through air intake and air jets ...ive set and reset floats as many times as I've had it apart ...
Any suggestions ...anyone ..
Originally just cleaned up clogged jets and ports ..ive got a carb kit in it with new jets ..
A- are they brass floats and are they leaking fuel inside of them
B-Are the needles in good shape?
C- Are your fuel lines connected to the correct spot? There are fuel inlet ports as well as larger vacuum ports when can be confused.
@@BrickHouseBuilds needles are in good shape ..
Also installed new needle kit ..
Float are the black backolite style floats ..
Going to check on my fuel hook up ..pretty sure I'm on fuel hookup ..not vacuum...
😉👏👍
Thanks ..
2 vacuum lines and one fuel line ..
Update ..
Got floats working properly ..
Doesn't leak at idle anymore ..
Now it runs ..won't go past 1/4 throttle ..with air box..without ..no vacuum leaks ..it's got a 4 into one exhaust ..it's got #115 and #40 jets ..idle screws were at 2 turns out ..went to 4 turns out ..no better no worse ..
Any advice ..??
Changed out air jets from 190 to 180..made a slight impovement.improvement..
I'm wondering if I should solder them closed..drill the jets out to 170..??
Or drill out main jets from 120 to 125..??
Hey there. We just got a gs550. it's 1982 looks like the same carb set up. We are missing some fuel and vacuume lines some one else removed them and they are gone. so questions
Center lower connection they had the fuel line connected? correct? left and right there are connections for lines that can pivot front and back where do these connect to? on the tank there are 3 connections one seems main fuel line. Next to that is a smaller line= reserve? last is what vacuume to in tank float? any tips would be great. the lines are just gone. Also if I look at the carbs which is considered carb #1 ? thanks bud.
Please be sure to purchase a service manual for your bike. It will answer all of these questions and more. They are well worth the money for proper diagnosis of things
@@BrickHouseBuilds So you don't know either lol. Found it from a gs1000 on another video guy.
@@MAKAROVOWNER I'm sorry I get dozens of tech requests daily and simply can't get back to them all. I ALWAYS recommend buying a service manual and working to find solutions as you actually learn that way. I do my best to provide a lot of solid information on here but simply can't diagnose, suggest repairs, search out parts, etc for everyone that requests it and still get my own work done. I apologize
@@BrickHouseBuilds Its ok. Figured since you presented the video you could likely point me the right way like boom boom boom. And in answering my question would in fact answer the same question for others. Kinda like center line is main fuel to tank.. Small top line to tank. Off center left and right are open ended lines that should the bike tip the carbs empty. Done deal. I do want to say thank you for your videos. They are informative and enjoyable. What awesome bikes with quad carbs and inline 4 cylinders. Look pretty bullet proof. Have a good day.
hey bud ive got the 1980 750 l and its running rich i see theres only one groove on the needles how do i adjust it leaner its sooting the new plugs its only fine soot and consisitant on all plugs its got 4 into 1 pipe and single foam filter and factory airbox ????
What manufacturer 750? Your mixture screws need to be set and pilot jet confirmed to be in the right spot.
@@BrickHouseBuilds suzuki how can the pilot jet be in the wrong spot ?? whats the amount of turns factory ? and do i turn them in or out to lean ? theres only 3 of the carbs with mixture screw provisions the 3rd one is b
a blank
@tat2dpom some carbs have jets that can thread into either which is why I asked what manufacturer it was. If you haven't seen the disassembly and cleaning videos before this I very much recommend you check them out. I show how to remove the mixture screw covers (your carb has it) and go through them. Definitely buy a service manual as it will state important stuff like this as I don't know what the factory settings are
For Yamaha xj550 do they also have to be mounted?
See my previous comment
Hey, I'm working on an 82 gs850. Same carbs. I see a tear in one of my slides diaphragms, is that an easy replacement or do I have to find a new slides?
I think you can fin a new diaphragm but I do not know where to point you. Id do some forum searches but again I believe you can replace just that.
Well I figured it out. I found replacements at jbm industries. Requires me to cut off the old diaphragms and retention plastic, but hey I'm willing to see if it works.
@@ripntearslayer9101 did it work..??
I have the same carbs as you and I have a problem, the first two lose petrol but the tank gasket is fine, the needle and the float also do their duty, but nevertheless it loses fuel, what can I do? I thank you!
Like it drips out visually?
Yes, you can see that the drops come out between the first and the second carbs in fact the first two carbs are dripping
@@vincenzodimatteo2003 so you have bad carb orings or bowl gaskets
The bowl gaskets are good
So the o-rings between the carb bodies are likely bad. Common on old Suzuki carbs.
How did you fix the tower?
OOps, I think you skipped that video in the series. Here is the dedicated video I made on that repair: th-cam.com/video/Al-FuUdGHx0/w-d-xo.html
Any idea what you set the float height to?
Just whatever the factory spec would have been. I don't know from memory
@@BrickHouseBuilds Honestly didnt expect a response! Thank you! Factory is 22.4 +/- 1mm, but still having issues. Thanks!
How in the heck do I remove the choke cable and throttle cable from the carbs?
You undo the jam nuts on the cables and slide them out
Here is disassembly: th-cam.com/video/IvSgFjK_wOw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=rSZXURPnEI6x3gTv
And here is removal: th-cam.com/video/vYFa9wloyeY/w-d-xo.html
@BrickHouseBuilds carbs are back together, and it's running lean with my new pod filters on. Does tightening or loosening the fuel screw make it more rich? I'm getting conflicting info everywhere.
@justinbond9327 watch this video from Cody motorcycle MD. There will be no confusion afterwards. Also note that cheap pod filters on cv carbs do not mix. You may want to make sure the bike runs well without them first before making the switch
th-cam.com/video/q9A2TL9RvwQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=nG5c1DAFb_4ddGAo
Is it important to put the 4 rubber inside the carburetor ?
Do you mean the rubber passage plugs in each bowl? If so absolutely yes
@@BrickHouseBuilds we can chat WhatsApp so I can send you photo ?
@@shadyknight2190 just send a message via Facebook or Instagram please
Inside the buzzer
What do the 4 rubber plugs do for the carburetors?
Who does your music?
When I made these videos I was likely still using the free songs from youtube studio library. I use epidemic sound now.
Anychance how do I adjust the float ?
The tab the float needle contacts. It will be covered in your service manual as well
@@BrickHouseBuildsthe bike I got didn’t come with one, dose the retainer have a big part to do with it
@@gaelaguirre3328 I'm not sure what you mean by that. You will have to order a service manual. A clymer at a minimum.
@@BrickHouseBuilds I wish I could I show you on the set of carb I got same one u got I think the guy before tried to clean or fix them but is missing a the retainer on one of the needle
ABCD and should be next (? )
What do you mean?
Sorry list the part numbers.
Everything is already listed in the description. I always link all stuff used in each video
Detailed and good!
Thank ya!