FANTASTIC! Really thorough excellent step by step video. 1989 K2500 5.7L 3 speed 3L80 TH400. Have checked everything, and when pressing on brake at stop light, when engine at op temp (warm), still getting a little like misfire. Checked vacuum lines & vacuum tests in green “normal engine” with a little needle movement. New master cylinder & brake booster. New copper ACD spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, ignition module, coil & wire to coil very low ohms. Distributor & wires only a couple years old. Old gal will try and fine tune per your video, as I know plenty of mechanics don’t know about the electrical wire disconnect (or ECM controlled upper Passing Gear from the firewall relay., my other issue I’m chasing. Do have the two kickdowns though.) BIG THANK YOU! You are helping so many people, the RIGHT WAY.
I know that others have already said this, but this is one of the best videos on resetting these finicky old systems. thank you for the patient step by step
Glad I found an in depth video to compare against and make sure I’m not losing my mind. Been doing it right the entire time and STILL doesn’t run right. Was running fine with plenty of power, then it died one day. Already testing the module and coils, diagnosed the issue as the reluctor in the distributor. Replaced the distributor and it runs perfect in park. Everything checks out with base timing and it advances when replugged back in, it advances with rpm etc all good…but when you drive it, it barely works 🤦🏻♂️
Well if you're certain the ignition system is operating properly, You might want to physicality verify TDC is where it is supposed to be. It's failing under load which can also be a fuel issue. Think about verifying pressure as well.
had to have 89 k1500 towed into local garage. they replaced distributor but it ran rough when I got it back just like in your video. Your video gave me the info I needed to set it and happy to say its running great. Thanks
Whiteout, been using it for this for 30 years. looking to locate the wire disconnect. This one a GMC Jimmy, same at this. Thanx. If it's in different location I'll note it here. Yep, that's where it's located. Little left of the booster. This one has been off before, the clip that locks it together is broken off but is can live without it. been that way for 4 years at least since this guys had it. Thanks for the video
The absolute best demonstration! Big shop channels can’t hold a candle to the way you broke this down. I have to drop a new distributor. I’m scared I could set it wrong.
Excellent video! I have a 94 where the ecu wire is in the cab, I could not find the wire on a 91 square suburban. Thank you, great info and detail! He actually knows what he's talking about!!!
check under power brake booster/ master cylinder. they tape it to the outside of harness on split loom. should be between brakes system & fuse box engine wiring harness
Thanks for the info/help And for anyone that wants to do this job to their truck or vehicle and are thinking of advancing the timing and running 93 octane to get more performance Please don't waist your time i just purchased a 1990 c1500 5.7 & 5 on the floor i want more out of it and made sure she was running on pure 93 before i "Advanced timing" So i changed all spark plugs and was still getting hesitation as soon as i tried to throttle up every gear So when i finally decided to check timing and "Advance it to a 4* Adv" I realized it was set to a 2* Adv! !?! wtf! It ran like crap @ 2* Adv! And let me remind you guys she was already sipping pure 93 when i checked the timing.. So i decided to set it @ 0* What a difference! She spins like a ToP! Alot smoother. my exhaust sounds more crisp. It has a 2-1/2" dynomax super turbo cat back. i have to monitor the mpg's now. But threw my experience i wanted more out of her so i thought by advancing timing the i would get more Was i wrong! Set to 0*!
1989 K2500 5.7L Oops forgot, to add to last comment, also installed new IAC, ESC, harmonic balancer, knock sensor, TPS, ECT, alternator, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump & filter, cleaned TBI on engine, installed some new TBI gaskets, and installed new TBI lower gasket as these are known to fail and cause vacuum leak. And installed a few other new parts. Approx 800-1000rmp at start up on Snap-On MT2500 & drops to about 600 when put in gear. So old gal is going to fine tune to the timing video. If any one has any ideas, okay gonna say it, old lady (ages me) would appreciate any input. These videos will become my go to, he is solid. Need to send him some homemade treats!
Hey enjoy watching your videos on the Blazer. I have a 89 K5. I just replaced my stater today. It’s a daily driver for me. I also have a Meyers plow which only does my property. Nothing commercial. Its pretty much rust and rot free. I recently found a small area of rust starting on floor as you open tailgate. It’s small amount but I’m going to have to cut a piece of floor out and clean it out. It’s too close to the rear floor support. Maybe heat up a can of fluid film and spray the area. The rest of the trucks in great shape. Great video
I have this issue I believe, but I also have an idle issue, There is the plug in the way of the idle adjustment, its stuck, any suggestions for getting it out, easy out is my next attmept, But my main question is do i fix the idle before timing, or timing before idle? Great video, well edited, clear understanding and simply well explained, with technicallity and simplicity.
Thank you so much,very well explained no confusion at all,have 69 chevy 350 on a 58 chevy pick up with a tbi kit on it I do have exactly the same advance wire as yours and set timing to 4-6 btdc back and forward because it didn’t sound good and feels lazy when given throttle also exhaust smell to rich,if I set it at 0 tdc is not going to hurt anything? Motor has only 3k miles on it thank you so much,and keep up with this awesome videos God bless!
You can try 0, 2, 4, etc as long as you set it with advance wire disconnected. The computer will do the advance on it's own, you are just setting the starting point. To get the most throttle response and 'peppy-ness' keep advancing until you get a negative result, then back it back 2. Usually on those '0' engines you get good results at 4 or 6.
THANK YOU I have a 91 GMC old skool van to cruise PCH with some surfboards on the roof. Runs like crud can't get out if it's own way. You have a great heart and goid teaching. You are the kind of great American neighbor wish I had. I subscribe to your channel. What is that cool old skool blue car next to you? From seeing fender im guessing old chevelle? Thank you again for making this video....I'm heading to get a timing light fix my problem because your helpful video
So im putting in a new distributor tomorrow, well put it in today. Have a video with those steps? This a a killer video. Learned alot about the tbi system i was familiar with till today.
Could the timing cause the 350 TBI to backfire when revving the engine? I have new plugs, wires, distributor, ecu, tps, iac, o2, map, and coils. The firing order is correct, but if I rev the engine sometimes the engine stalls for a second, then backfires so hard that flames shoot out of the throttle body. Truck also doesn't seem to have a lot of power and takes forever to shift out of first.
Thanks a ton for your wisdom i'am so grateful for your video. Thanks to you my truck sounds better than the day bought her also because i dropped new timing chain and gears in her aswell alot of other goodies.
Just another compliment about how perfect this video was. You just helped save my '93!! And you just saved a trip for the nice young men in their clean white suits from coming to take me away! Haha! 😵😂 One quick question though... I have two grooves in my flywheel as timing marks. About two or three inches apart if I remember. Any reason for both of them? I'm going out there now to do exactly what you did.
Hello I thought zero degrees with wire disconnected then ten degrees with it back disconnected. What was RPM running at when you reconnect wire? Thanks Joe
RPM is computer controlled, just disconnect the wire, set to 0, and plug wire back in. The computer will re-learn the correct idle and add the proper timing its pre programmed for.
Excellent video. i have another question for you. i have a 88 Suburban. 4x4. When i hit the brakes it takes a hard pull to the right. front end is completely rebuilt, also the braking system has been completely rebuilt. you mentioned your K5 pulled hard right. did you ever find out what the problem was. i have heard that alot of the 4x4 square bodys have this issue. thanks again for the great video brother.
I have not dived into the front end yet. My pulling may be brakes, but the suspension/steering components are sloppy as well. What you are describing is usually a braking issue. Start with a good bleed and go from there. Suspect is the left side not grabbing hard enough. Bleed them and let me know. Thanks for watching.
i just had the head gaskets done on my 1992 GMC2500 van, 350 TBI engine. when i got it back it would pop badly thru the TBI top of the air filter. i brought the van back and the guy had me take off the dogbox (engine cover) to do the timing. there is a mark on the intake manifold and on the distributer as well but i wasnt sure if his mechanics put it there. he turned the distributer counterclockwise to a 1/4" passed the mark on the intake mark. we drove it. It was rattling bad and ran like crap i thought it was gonna blow up. we went back to the shop and he turned it back a bit to just passed the mark on the intake manifold. and now it runs better but it will still pop going up hills and does feel sluggish to me like im pulling a trailer. He said for me to just drive it a while that it just needs to be driven. he never disconnected the wire you speak of. there is the tan wire connector there going to the distributer . i said to him that it just doesnt seem like it has power and that it has a hard time pulling my boat (21 Checkmate,) and that for a 2500 van it should have no problem with power even when pulling my boat... He said its just that the conversion van is heavy. can i get your response please? and i will do the timing myself now. but does his logic make sense?
This is wrong in my opinion. He probably marked the intake and distributor so when he put it back together he just lined up the marks he made. I was taught never to do this. If your timing was not done with a light and without disconnecting the computer wire, you'd have a better shot at winning Lotto than getting the timing right. Than van should have plenty of power to do what you need and there should be no popping through the TBI at all. Put a timing light on that thing and see where it is.
Ty axle. I did it myself this morning and it went smooth and easy job. Needless to say it is right now. And running like new. The hardest part was getting the fan shroud off lol with tha ac lines and all. But its done and thank you
I have a 90 silverado 5.7l. I watch your video and went right out to check my timing because I have a hi idle and been replacing all my sensors with no luck and thought this was the answer I was looking for. but to my dismay my engine does not have the plate with the v notches no other reference point to set it, that I can find. Did they do something else in 1990 everything else is as explain and show , or am I missing the timing mark plat thing . possible someone left it off?
So with that wire disconnected and when you time it to 0 and plug that wire back in it advances the timing off 12-16 deg so after that wire is plugged back in the timing is still good even when you put the gun on it it reads different???
@@AxlesGarage O ok, I did all of that and it still wants to die when put in Park or Neutral and other times it seems like the RPM's are to high when in Park or Neutral. What do you figure that's all about???
I almost hate to give shit on this fine sunday, but not quite. Not only does maybe half the people that watch this video have a gizmo Gadget timing light like yours with a screen oh, but all you gave people wore adjustments that you made and a screw that you loosened and tightened. Under no circumstances was this video done the right way. I need help bro I have a 89 4.3 and I moved the distributor around, but not out of the range that I was already in. I was trying to figure something out with my vibration in the steering wheel and as I accelerate they're different ranges I still have a vibration and it's quite clear that it's not my timing issue but now I need to put my timing back to where it's supposed to be
Most people who work on older cars have a timing light, If not you should as well as the basic tools to repair old vehicles. This was not so much an instructional on how to set timing but rather the 'hidden' wire that is the problem when most try to set or adjust the timing. Your 4.3 doesn't have a 'range' and you just don't move the distributor around. It must be set to the spec on the tag, otherwise it will affect multiple systems controlled by the pcm.
I id the exact way you explained, except when i disconnected the brown wire, my truck dies. 1987 gmc v1500. Any ideas? Before unhooking the wire, its advanced about 2 degrees. Could it be its not advanced enough before unhooking the wire?
Big shout out from Long Island! I'm having a bit of trouble starting my 1989 GMC Jimmy. Frequently, I will turn the key and a series of very rapid loud electrical clicks (not combustion noise) happen which seem to come from the engine bay. When this happens, the engine can either sort of sputter to life and than run smoothly or it won't seem to take and I'll get stranded. Other times, I will turn the key, all interior lights will did, and nothing will happen. Do you have any suggestions as to what might be causing this issue? Thanks, Will
good video my brother i got the same truck 1990 k5 blazer i just rebuild my engine i got a few up grades on it nothing to big i got headers up graded with 3704 edelbrock intake went up on the cam that will run with my computer i want to put a performance prom chip in it .it will run mush better.i got a 3 inch body lift on it and 35x12 tires on it ..change the gears to 4.10
Checked older comments. Yep, great step by step on all the k body trucks. Had difficulty as I didn't watch your video first. 1990 2500 K truck with tbi. Have learned from Murphy what not to do and how OBD1 and OBD 2 are waaaaay different. Will be looking under the truck for the timing mark as I've got MN rust that I'm slowly removing. Had "OH Dah!" moment when I found that shroud on the passenger side of my truck. Had removed the glove box when I couldn't find the computer timing wire on drivers side fire wall. Thanks!
awsome i think im a check my timeing on my 90 k5 it runs good but dosent seem to start quick enought it turns loose like yours did id say it al looks good but ill check it out to make shore
Hello, I have a problem with my 1990 5.71 Chevy C1500 when I set the time to 0 degrees and connect the computer cable, it automatically goes up to 6, 8, 12 or 14 degrees and it goes out of adjustment,What causes or problems could I have with it?
I have a 1995 Chevy 4.3 v6. TBI in my 1991 Jeep yj. The timing was off.I don't have a disconnect wore for the ECM. I did the initial timing. Tightened the clamp. Checked it again. It was good. Checked it again. Put it on 0. After a couple tries. It ran well. You all have any Ideas. Or just play it by ear?
I put my timing at top dead center and it runs way better than it did but the start up is horrible and it runs pretty bad for a couple of seconds then it clears up and runs great any ideas?
Assuming the rest of your ignition system is good (cap, rotor, wires, plugs, firing order) I would try and start with disconnecting the timing wire like in the video and set to 2 degrees before TDC instead of Zero. Then reconnect wire. See how it does both at start up, idle, and then heavy load. I would go 2 degrees at a time and see if anything changes. I'm about to try this as well on the K5 project. You might get better performance, then a drop off when you go too far. Trial and error to find the sweet spot.
Hi, did everything as in the video.When the engine is idling everything is fine, but when you go on the road rattle valve....What can be done about it? Maybe something is faulty?
Your are going to need to check your timing advance as rpm increases. A dial-back timing light is required. Could be a computer or distributor problem. However, first you must ensure the Plugs, Cap/Rotor, Wires etc are in good working order.
@@AxlesGarage Well, thanks, I’ll try to check everything. The engine repair master said that it was detonation. I tried to completely turn off the ignition timing but still the valves knock when you are driving. When the engine is without load, everything is quiet and there is no noise. I changed the timing kit to a new one. Can the valves knock like that if I made a mistake when I installed the new timing kit? thanks for the help
It will pre detonate if there is too much timing. Thats not the valves you hear, that is a spark knock or 'pinging'. You need to check and make sure your timing is dead on before anything else.
I have read that the battery should be disconnected before reconnecting the timing wire (brown, white stripe) to prevent possible damage to the computer...
On my 89 Chevy Silverado 5.7 T.B.I. the ignition advance wire was on the passanger side of the firewall, just to the right of the electrical junction cover. It looked exactly like the one in this video, only harder to find.
I have an 88 k2500 Silverado with the 5.7l. I watched numerous videos and each said set to zero with the electronic advance unplugged. I did that perfectly and when I plugged in it barely ran. A buddy said, no you set it 12 deg advance, then plug in. I did that and it sounded really good, and idles well. I do feel it lacks a little power.
@@rueban96 When you set your base timing to zero and plugged the wire back in, did you check your timing again? It should have read about 14 degrees advanced. This reading is past the timing marks. I had to use the adjustment on my timing light to see the mark. If plugging the wire back in did not alter your timing reading, your computer is not advancing the timing, or you unplugged the wrong wire. This is a common mistake, that I made myself. Several videos said the advance wire was on the drivers side of the firewall, next to the power brake booster. I found that wire and tried it first. It had no effect on my timing. Some videos said the wire was inside the cab, under the dash on the passenger side. This was not the case on my 89 Silverado 5.7L.
@@jamesmumford774 mine was on the passenger side in the engine bay by the firewall. It did advance because when I set to zero unplugged it still ran fairly well, but when I plugged in - she barely ran and I could no longer see the line. I did some digging last night and saw some articles that matched my buddy's advice. I get my truck back from the shop today. If the sticker on the shroud is in tact I'll snap a pic.
@@rueban96 That is odd. My 89 idles better with the advance cranked up a few degrees. That is until you plug the computer back in. Then it is a matter of too much of a good thing. I never went beyond 6 degrees of extra advance. This definitely sounds like a timing issue. Bearing in mind that your truck ran better with 12 degrees initial timing, (which is a lot of total timing when combined with the advance from the computer), I would not rule out a weak spark in one or more cylinders, or poor fuel atomization thus requiring a little more time to burn properly. I would also suggest you check the computer codes, if you have not already done so. I simply used the paper clip method and printed a list of OBD1 codes from Google. There are plenty of videos on that. I hope I have offered up something useful. I will gladly respond to any inquiries, if I can be of help.
Axle's Garage / Nope verifying timing whether it’s 0 degrees, 36 or anything in between is easier and more accurate with that kind of light, you certainly can do it with a basic light just like you can brake lug nuts loose with a breaker bar, but I’d rather have an impact gun
Remove #1 Spark plug, stick finger over hole 'sealing' it. have helper bump engine over until you feel pressure squeezing out past your finger. then rotate engine by hand until timing pointer is at 0 on the balancer.
So what if a guy wants to swap in a replacement cam and he goes to break it in, do you need that advance wire connected or could u 0 it out and break it in without the wire connected
I would do cam break-in with the wire connected. You'll need the advance during the break-in run, without it the exhaust temps will be way too high and engine temps will be high as well. It is enough to burn the coating off a set of headers..... ask me how I know;)
@@AxlesGarage yea I seen that on some TBI break in videos guys saying it gets pretty hot and they have to shut it down, see my worry is doing the job having to start is zero it out shut off and connect advance timing wire then start and shoot for the moon...is what I was told by summit racing but that seems like I'm just asking for a flate lobe 😫 I guess if the chain is dot to dot that should be TDC so maybe I should just connect the wire before first start and see if she starts right up?
I would try to get it anywhere from 0-8 and then add the wire. or your could set it to about 16-24 without wire for break-in. No load during cam break in, will tolerate lots of timing.
So I did every single step you had mentioned. Idled beautiful right at 0*, hooked up the advance and shut it off. Started it up. It surges at idle. Vroooooom, poplopopop, vrooOOOOOoomm
Mine is excellent midband but hella sluggish off the line. Timing was set at 10 degress after tdc. Dunno why but will correct tonorrow. Thx for the vid. Mpg is 8 to the gallon 😬. Pushing 38" though. Def not a commuter car.
Better but with the overall design of these emission based motors still not as good as a 350 naturally aspirated motor. But eh, better gas mileage but loss of power. Tit for tat. Still turns my 38s well and tows my dirtbikes well. What u working with? Did u keep the stock or swap?
My sticker says 6 degrees timing, not zero. And put it in Drive and block the tires so they won't move , does it make a difference if it's in drive or park???
Should I set it at Zero, for base timing, like you did? My sticker says 6??? Also my sticker says put the timing light lead not on number one but on distributor main power lead wire the one in the middle??? Does it make a difference ???
I've never found my wire. I've allways looked in passenger side.mines a 89 v3500 4x4 Best video I've seen! I dont care if the guy does talk funny,he must be from out a town? Steve ,Rockmart Georgia,Trump 2020! Stop the steal. 1.82 a gal to 2.59 in 5 weeks THANK YOU!
Does the wires on the cap have to be in a certain place? Other than the #1 wire lined up with the rotor bug at tdc. I'm having trouble timing my 87. Also does the cap need to be in a certain place? For instance the 2 plug on back of cap should to point in a certain place? Any help would be nice. I've tried what you did in video I'm just hoping the computer or something isn't fryed.
Man you just took me back to 1979! Yes the wires have to be in a certain place. I scrambled the wires on the plugs and distributor once. Luckily not bad enough to where it wouldn't run; it just backfired a lot. I learned FIRING ORDER that day!
@@JustPlainCommonSense I know the firing order is important I got that. I mean does It matter if the #1 plug on the cap has to be in a certain place. I probably didn't word my initial question right.
So i have a 91 s10 blazer and i have a rich running condition and i did the timing and had the black and tan wire disconnected then when i shut the truck off and turn it back on its like 17 degrees before tdc any one know if that is normal i have a new map and egr and cts and oil pressure sensor/ switch in it and new ignition system
@@AxlesGarage yea i just went and got a new cat and did a tbi rebuild and now its running great not that it wasnt running good before but it passed smog and was a huge difference in tests the old blazer is running super green now
This is going to be tough to troubleshoot. Could be bad distributor, bad wiring, or bad ECM. I would start by tracing the wire and make sure there are no obvious breaks.
I bought a 84 k5 at first it would crank but not start. Barely started for a second back fired died and won’t even crank now any ideas? It’s got an hei distributor and supposedly a new motor. I thought timing Bc it would just crank and crank but not start.
axle, I have an 89 chevy with the 5.7 . rebuilt heads, installed all new wires, new plugs, complete new distributor ,rotor and cap. set timing to zero BTDC, with timing connector runplugged, rebuilt throttle body, replaced fuel pump, Iac, TPS, tested EGR, checked for vacuum leaks. im getting a surging idle and backfire thru the throttle body,. when it backfires, it backfires so hard, it sounds like something is spinning in the intake,.,. weird.. I dont know what to check next.. im wondering if maybe my timing has jumped,. not sure how to tell. it seems to run worse cold and open loop. if I gradually ramp throttle up it usually doesnt back fire thru the intake, but if I snap the throttle it pops. Ive checked several time for vacuum leaks, checked all possible areas including pcv, egr, intake, evap cannister, brake booster, ect. replaced ignition coil also . fuel pressure is about. 14 psi... strange thing, if I pinch fuel return line partially close, it will smooth the idle . I have also tested 02 sensor, TPS sensor, all in spec. replaced CTS as well. im whipped! ha
Backfire is when combustion goes up through the intake and not out the exhaust. The most common cause is improper ignition timing. The second most common cause is improper valve adjustment. A given cylinder should fire when both valves are closed, the expanding gasses push the piston down and back around then exhaust valve open to push the gasses out the exhaust. Then intake valve open to suck in fresh fuel. (This is a simplified description). SO, if the fuel ignites while the intake valve is still open the expanding gasses will take the easiest route back up through the intake... that's a back fire. I have never found that a lean (not enough fuel) condition to cause a backfire. The first step is to confirm proper ignition timing.
This definitely helped me! In my 93 s10, my timing connection was right behind the top lip of the carpet on the passenger side right under the glove box.
How come I'm looking up parts for one of these blazers especially the 89 which is an actually a V10 not a K5 no matter it's GMC or Chevrolet you can't find it under K5 find it under V10
put in a Pertronix distributor..best distributor ive ever used.. and its electronic..or trade the truck to me..lol swap it to an Edelbrock carb, less problems and it needs headers.. get good wires and plugs
I thought about headers, but the heads on those TBI engines flow so crappy, you really don't get any performance increase with headers...other than tone. I have used Pertronix and old style HEI's in the past on older stuff.
You don't think it has anything to do with the gears on the cam and the crank and then the distributor to the cam timing chain links I'm pretty sure that's why it's a little bit on the distributor moves a lot on the crank because it's geared with the cam and the timing set by a roller chain and two gears plus your worm drive on the distributor and the crank since why the distributor gear slanted the way it is to mess up with the worm gear
@@AxlesGarage I was an idiot and redid the entire cap , plugs , wires and replaced them all with new parts I have the same engine as yours though . I have a 1987 Chevy R20 custom deluxe .. can’t for the life of me get the number one correct on the distributer cap . Any other ideas ?
OK, now I get it, you are going to have to verify the location of your rotor at TDC on the #1 Cyl. Do some google-tubing. There are tons of videos on the subject. Its a bit more involved than I can explain in a comment. Steps: 1. remove Cap 2. Remove #1 Plug 3> find TDC on #1 4. Mark position of rotor while at #1 TDC on base of dist. 5. Replace cap, use the mark you made to transfer up to the post either on or just after the mark you made. #1 wire goes there. 6. each subsequent wire should go around clockwise following the SBC firing order. 7. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
@@AxlesGarage excellent ! Seems I’ve got firing order correct now , however truck will run too retarded or advanced to carry an idle properly- it just bogs out and dies ( can’t even warm the truck up in order to get accurate timing ..) any advice on how to just get the damn truck to run is there a place between too retarded and advanced somewhere in between I should get it so the damn thing atleast idles ?
Probably the one thing that can go wrong during tune-up. Base timing procedure should be correctly verified/adjusted per mfg instruction with distributor type computer controlled ignition. Distributor less ign ⚡️is another ball of wax...
Ok guys, the midwest to northeast dialect is a bit off but do you mean it kicks and fires and sorta...not hesitates. Like an automatic lean rev...I got that. 1m between 21.7-17.5 timing advanced at a 750 idle, In my sight see mostly sticky goopy 202k miles considered...relatively clean lol it pops code 35 engine lean I go to swap the IAC from my first truck a 94 K1500 Blazer sport victory red graphite gray bottom it was a beauty...IAC is on a tech 1a doing...what it should be...the two studs and bolt were loose that hold the tbi down and the f@%%#^ IAC has survived so well...I was able to spin it off by hand...its always cheap and simple but thin kn outside the box fixing these things lol its sometimes someone doing wrong trying to do a positive or whatever just get yourself a feel of the wiring look under the conduit and fire it and wiggle some connectors you might just find you first palm moment...that's engines sweet for 300 lb feet of ...the thing really melts tires if you got nice tires I wouldn't do a brake stand l lol
Computer adjusts timing and air/fuel to give a good cold idle. Without computer, the cold idle could be a bit rough and the engine could surge a bit. When it surges, the centrifugal advance (if any) can affect baseline timing. So in order to get a smooth and consistent timing reading, it's best to have the engine at operating temps. Thanks for Watching.
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FANTASTIC! Really thorough excellent step by step video. 1989 K2500 5.7L 3 speed 3L80 TH400. Have checked everything, and when pressing on brake at stop light, when engine at op temp (warm), still getting a little like misfire. Checked vacuum lines & vacuum tests in green “normal engine” with a little needle movement. New master cylinder & brake booster. New copper ACD spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, ignition module, coil & wire to coil very low ohms. Distributor & wires only a couple years old. Old gal will try and fine tune per your video, as I know plenty of mechanics don’t know about the electrical wire disconnect (or ECM controlled upper Passing Gear from the firewall relay., my other issue I’m chasing. Do have the two kickdowns though.) BIG THANK YOU! You are helping so many people, the RIGHT WAY.
I know that others have already said this, but this is one of the best videos on resetting these finicky old systems. thank you for the patient step by step
Thanks so much for the kind words
I’ve watched a lot of timing videos and this by far is the best one I have a seen !!!! Thank you !!
Glad we could help.
Glad I found an in depth video to compare against and make sure I’m not losing my mind. Been doing it right the entire time and STILL doesn’t run right. Was running fine with plenty of power, then it died one day. Already testing the module and coils, diagnosed the issue as the reluctor in the distributor. Replaced the distributor and it runs perfect in park. Everything checks out with base timing and it advances when replugged back in, it advances with rpm etc all good…but when you drive it, it barely works 🤦🏻♂️
Well if you're certain the ignition system is operating properly, You might want to physicality verify TDC is where it is supposed to be. It's failing under load which can also be a fuel issue. Think about verifying pressure as well.
had to have 89 k1500 towed into local garage. they replaced distributor but it ran rough when I got it back just like in your video. Your video gave me the info I needed to set it and happy to say its running great. Thanks
Glad to be of some help.
Whiteout, been using it for this for 30 years. looking to locate the wire disconnect. This one a GMC Jimmy, same at this. Thanx. If it's in different location I'll note it here. Yep, that's where it's located. Little left of the booster. This one has been off before, the clip that locks it together is broken off but is can live without it. been that way for 4 years at least since this guys had it. Thanks for the video
The absolute best demonstration! Big shop channels can’t hold a candle to the way you broke this down. I have to drop a new distributor. I’m scared I could set it wrong.
Thanks for the kind words
Got my 89 a year ago ran like crap adjusted the timing and it completely changed it.
Thanks for the video
Glad it helped
Excellent video! I have a 94 where the ecu wire is in the cab, I could not find the wire on a 91 square suburban. Thank you, great info and detail! He actually knows what he's talking about!!!
Thanks for the encouraging words.
check under power brake booster/ master cylinder. they tape it to the outside of harness on split loom. should be between brakes system & fuse box engine wiring harness
@@davedoyle161 cool! Thanks for the info
Thanks for the info/help
And for anyone that wants to do this job to their truck or vehicle and are thinking of advancing the timing and running 93 octane to get more performance
Please don't waist your time i just purchased a 1990 c1500 5.7 & 5 on the floor i want more out of it and made sure she was running on pure 93 before i "Advanced timing"
So i changed all spark plugs and was still getting hesitation as soon as i tried to throttle up every gear
So when i finally decided to check timing and "Advance it to a 4* Adv"
I realized it was set to a 2* Adv!
!?! wtf! It ran like crap @ 2* Adv!
And let me remind you guys she was already sipping pure 93 when i checked the timing..
So i decided to set it @ 0*
What a difference! She spins like a ToP! Alot smoother. my exhaust sounds more crisp. It has a 2-1/2" dynomax super turbo cat back. i have to monitor the mpg's now. But threw my experience i wanted more out of her so i thought by advancing timing the i would get more
Was i wrong! Set to 0*!
Yep, let the primitive PCM do it's thing as designed. Thanks for watching.
this video solved a problem my fathers blazer had from 2008 till tonight.
Glad we could help
1989 K2500 5.7L Oops forgot, to add to last comment, also installed new IAC, ESC, harmonic balancer, knock sensor, TPS, ECT, alternator, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump & filter, cleaned TBI on engine, installed some new TBI gaskets, and installed new TBI lower gasket as these are known to fail and cause vacuum leak. And installed a few other new parts. Approx 800-1000rmp at start up on Snap-On MT2500 & drops to about 600 when put in gear. So old gal is going to fine tune to the timing video. If any one has any ideas, okay gonna say it, old lady (ages me) would appreciate any input. These videos will become my go to, he is solid. Need to send him some homemade treats!
Hey enjoy watching your videos on the Blazer. I have a 89 K5. I just replaced my stater today. It’s a daily driver for me. I also have a Meyers plow which only does my property. Nothing commercial. Its pretty much rust and rot free. I recently found a small area of rust starting on floor as you open tailgate. It’s small amount but I’m going to have to cut a piece of floor out and clean it out. It’s too close to the rear floor support. Maybe heat up a can of fluid film and spray the area. The rest of the trucks in great shape. Great video
K5 daily is the shit!! Awesome. Thanks for watching.
I have this issue I believe, but I also have an idle issue, There is the plug in the way of the idle adjustment, its stuck, any suggestions for getting it out, easy out is my next attmept, But my main question is do i fix the idle before timing, or timing before idle? Great video, well edited, clear understanding and simply well explained, with technicallity and simplicity.
Solid tutorial. I am about to tune up the TBI 350 in my '89 Gvan and check the timing in the process.
Glad we could help. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much,very well explained no confusion at all,have 69 chevy 350 on a 58 chevy pick up with a tbi kit on it I do have exactly the same advance wire as yours and set timing to 4-6 btdc back and forward because it didn’t sound good and feels lazy when given throttle also exhaust smell to rich,if I set it at 0 tdc is not going to hurt anything? Motor has only 3k miles on it thank you so much,and keep up with this awesome videos God bless!
You can try 0, 2, 4, etc as long as you set it with advance wire disconnected. The computer will do the advance on it's own, you are just setting the starting point. To get the most throttle response and 'peppy-ness' keep advancing until you get a negative result, then back it back 2. Usually on those '0' engines you get good results at 4 or 6.
THANK YOU I have a 91 GMC old skool van to cruise PCH with some surfboards on the roof. Runs like crud can't get out if it's own way. You have a great heart and goid teaching. You are the kind of great American neighbor wish I had. I subscribe to your channel. What is that cool old skool blue car next to you? From seeing fender im guessing old chevelle? Thank you again for making this video....I'm heading to get a timing light fix my problem because your helpful video
Thanks for the kind words. The car is a 1967 Chevelle convertible. I've done some real old videos on it.
Thanks for the video! I had the exact same issue with the '88 Blazer I picked up a few weeks ago. It now runs like a whole different rig. 👍
Glad it helped
So im putting in a new distributor tomorrow, well put it in today. Have a video with those steps? This a a killer video. Learned alot about the tbi system i was familiar with till today.
I have an old HEI video on my channel, it may help. th-cam.com/video/ExlqqlnfGYE/w-d-xo.html
Could the timing cause the 350 TBI to backfire when revving the engine? I have new plugs, wires, distributor, ecu, tps, iac, o2, map, and coils. The firing order is correct, but if I rev the engine sometimes the engine stalls for a second, then backfires so hard that flames shoot out of the throttle body. Truck also doesn't seem to have a lot of power and takes forever to shift out of first.
Sounds like a timing issue to me. You need to verify TDC and then set the timing and go from there.
Thanks a ton for your wisdom i'am so grateful for your video. Thanks to you my truck sounds better than the day bought her also because i dropped new timing chain and gears in her aswell alot of other goodies.
Glad to hear it!
cant wait to try this. Thanks for your really clear instructions on how to do this.
You are so welcome!
Thanks for the informative video! My '87 is running better than ever.
Great to hear!
Just another compliment about how perfect this video was. You just helped save my '93!!
And you just saved a trip for the nice young men in their clean white suits from coming to take me away! Haha! 😵😂
One quick question though... I have two grooves in my flywheel as timing marks. About two or three inches apart if I remember. Any reason for both of them? I'm going out there now to do exactly what you did.
Send me a pic, should only me one '0' mark.
Hello I thought zero degrees with wire disconnected then ten degrees with it back disconnected. What was RPM running at when you reconnect wire? Thanks Joe
RPM is computer controlled, just disconnect the wire, set to 0, and plug wire back in. The computer will re-learn the correct idle and add the proper timing its pre programmed for.
@@AxlesGarage it was idiling around 750 rpm according to my timing light
Excellent video. i have another question for you. i have a 88 Suburban. 4x4. When i hit the brakes it takes a hard pull to the right. front end is completely rebuilt, also the braking system has been completely rebuilt. you mentioned your K5 pulled hard right. did you ever find out what the problem was. i have heard that alot of the 4x4 square bodys have this issue. thanks again for the great video brother.
I have not dived into the front end yet. My pulling may be brakes, but the suspension/steering components are sloppy as well. What you are describing is usually a braking issue. Start with a good bleed and go from there. Suspect is the left side not grabbing hard enough. Bleed them and let me know. Thanks for watching.
Had same issue in my 87 k5 , I tightened the steering box a bit and took care of it
i just had the head gaskets done on my 1992 GMC2500 van, 350 TBI engine. when i got it back it would pop badly thru the TBI top of the air filter. i brought the van back and the guy had me take off the dogbox (engine cover) to do the timing. there is a mark on the intake manifold and on the distributer as well but i wasnt sure if his mechanics put it there. he turned the distributer counterclockwise to a 1/4" passed the mark on the intake mark. we drove it. It was rattling bad and ran like crap i thought it was gonna blow up. we went back to the shop and he turned it back a bit to just passed the mark on the intake manifold. and now it runs better but it will still pop going up hills and does feel sluggish to me like im pulling a trailer. He said for me to just drive it a while that it just needs to be driven. he never disconnected the wire you speak of. there is the tan wire connector there going to the distributer . i said to him that it just doesnt seem like it has power and that it has a hard time pulling my boat (21 Checkmate,) and that for a 2500 van it should have no problem with power even when pulling my boat... He said its just that the conversion van is heavy. can i get your response please? and i will do the timing myself now. but does his logic make sense?
should this van have a problem going up hills and towing due to the weight of the van itself?
This is wrong in my opinion. He probably marked the intake and distributor so when he put it back together he just lined up the marks he made. I was taught never to do this. If your timing was not done with a light and without disconnecting the computer wire, you'd have a better shot at winning Lotto than getting the timing right. Than van should have plenty of power to do what you need and there should be no popping through the TBI at all. Put a timing light on that thing and see where it is.
Ty axle. I did it myself this morning and it went smooth and easy job. Needless to say it is right now. And running like new. The hardest part was getting the fan shroud off lol with tha ac lines and all. But its done and thank you
Glad to help
I have a 90 silverado 5.7l. I watch your video and went right out to check my timing because I have a hi idle and been replacing all my sensors with no luck and thought this was the answer I was looking for. but to my dismay my engine does not have the plate with the v notches no other reference point to set it, that I can find. Did they do something else in 1990 everything else is as explain and show , or am I missing the timing mark plat thing . possible someone left it off?
It should be on the drivers side about the 1-2 o'clock position.
So with that wire disconnected and when you time it to 0 and plug that wire back in it advances the timing off 12-16 deg so after that wire is plugged back in the timing is still good even when you put the gun on it it reads different???
Yes. The baseline is 0. The computer runs the timing and it needs to have the base at 0, so it can advance as programmed.
@@AxlesGarage O ok, I did all of that and it still wants to die when put in Park or Neutral and other times it seems like the RPM's are to high when in Park or Neutral. What do you figure that's all about???
I almost hate to give shit on this fine sunday, but not quite. Not only does maybe half the people that watch this video have a gizmo Gadget timing light like yours with a screen oh, but all you gave people wore adjustments that you made and a screw that you loosened and tightened. Under no circumstances was this video done the right way. I need help bro I have a 89 4.3 and I moved the distributor around, but not out of the range that I was already in. I was trying to figure something out with my vibration in the steering wheel and as I accelerate they're different ranges I still have a vibration and it's quite clear that it's not my timing issue but now I need to put my timing back to where it's supposed to be
Most people who work on older cars have a timing light, If not you should as well as the basic tools to repair old vehicles. This was not so much an instructional on how to set timing but rather the 'hidden' wire that is the problem when most try to set or adjust the timing. Your 4.3 doesn't have a 'range' and you just don't move the distributor around. It must be set to the spec on the tag, otherwise it will affect multiple systems controlled by the pcm.
I id the exact way you explained, except when i disconnected the brown wire, my truck dies. 1987 gmc v1500. Any ideas? Before unhooking the wire, its advanced about 2 degrees. Could it be its not advanced enough before unhooking the wire?
Yes, that could be
Awesome video!i just set my timing on my 93 350 tbi today!
Glad to help
I've done plenty of those vehicles even like the tahoes 93s you can get in there with a 9/16 wrench this is quick as you could with that special tool
The special tool is for the tamper resistant Torx bolts that hold the top on. 89,90,91 only as far as I know. Earlier models had regular bolts.
Big shout out from Long Island!
I'm having a bit of trouble starting my 1989 GMC Jimmy. Frequently, I will turn the key and a series of very rapid loud electrical clicks (not combustion noise) happen which seem to come from the engine bay. When this happens, the engine can either sort of sputter to life and than run smoothly or it won't seem to take and I'll get stranded. Other times, I will turn the key, all interior lights will did, and nothing will happen.
Do you have any suggestions as to what might be causing this issue?
Thanks,
Will
Wiring to starter & battery cables would be my first suspect. Thanks for watching.
This answered every question I had. Thanks!
Glad we could help. Thanks for watching.
good video my brother i got the same truck 1990 k5 blazer i just rebuild my engine i got a few up grades on it nothing to big i got headers up graded with 3704 edelbrock intake went up on the cam that will run with my computer i want to put a performance prom chip in it .it will run mush better.i got a 3 inch body lift on it and 35x12 tires on it ..change the gears to 4.10
Sounds like a fun ride, good luck with your project
Checked older comments. Yep, great step by step on all the k body trucks. Had difficulty as I didn't watch your video first. 1990 2500 K truck with tbi. Have learned from Murphy what not to do and how OBD1 and OBD 2 are waaaaay different. Will be looking under the truck for the timing mark as I've got MN rust that I'm slowly removing. Had "OH Dah!" moment when I found that shroud on the passenger side of my truck. Had removed the glove box when I couldn't find the computer timing wire on drivers side fire wall. Thanks!
Glad to help, Thanks for Watching.
awsome i think im a check my timeing on my 90 k5 it runs good but dosent seem to start quick enought it turns loose like yours did id say it al looks good but ill check it out to make shore
Turns Loose. I like that language, you get it. Thanks for watching.
Hello, I have a problem with my 1990 5.71 Chevy C1500 when I set the time to 0 degrees and connect the computer cable, it automatically goes up to 6, 8, 12 or 14 degrees and it goes out of adjustment,What causes or problems could I have with it?
thats what it should do, when plugged back in the computer takes over and advances the timing
I have a 1995 Chevy 4.3 v6. TBI in my 1991 Jeep yj. The timing was off.I don't have a disconnect wore for the ECM. I did the initial timing. Tightened the clamp. Checked it again. It was good. Checked it again. Put it on 0. After a couple tries. It ran well. You all have any Ideas. Or just play it by ear?
is this 95 4.3 an OBD1 or 2??
I put my timing at top dead center and it runs way better than it did but the start up is horrible and it runs pretty bad for a couple of seconds then it clears up and runs great any ideas?
Assuming the rest of your ignition system is good (cap, rotor, wires, plugs, firing order) I would try and start with disconnecting the timing wire like in the video and set to 2 degrees before TDC instead of Zero. Then reconnect wire. See how it does both at start up, idle, and then heavy load. I would go 2 degrees at a time and see if anything changes. I'm about to try this as well on the K5 project. You might get better performance, then a drop off when you go too far. Trial and error to find the sweet spot.
Hi, did everything as in the video.When the engine is idling everything is fine, but when you go on the road rattle valve....What can be done about it? Maybe something is faulty?
Your are going to need to check your timing advance as rpm increases. A dial-back timing light is required. Could be a computer or distributor problem. However, first you must ensure the Plugs, Cap/Rotor, Wires etc are in good working order.
@@AxlesGarage Well, thanks, I’ll try to check everything. The engine repair master said that it was detonation.
I tried to completely turn off the ignition timing but still the valves knock when you are driving. When the engine is without load, everything is quiet and there is no noise. I changed the timing kit to a new one. Can the valves knock like that if I made a mistake when I installed the new timing kit? thanks for the help
It will pre detonate if there is too much timing. Thats not the valves you hear, that is a spark knock or 'pinging'. You need to check and make sure your timing is dead on before anything else.
@@AxlesGarage thanks for the help.I'll check again...
I have read that the battery should be disconnected before reconnecting the timing wire (brown, white stripe) to prevent possible damage to the computer...
Thats possible and probably a good idea as a safety. I've never done that and never had an issue. Thanks for watching.
On my 89 Chevy Silverado 5.7 T.B.I. the ignition advance wire was on the passanger side of the firewall, just to the right of the electrical junction cover. It looked exactly like the one in this video, only harder to find.
Good info, thank you.
I have an 88 k2500 Silverado with the 5.7l. I watched numerous videos and each said set to zero with the electronic advance unplugged. I did that perfectly and when I plugged in it barely ran. A buddy said, no you set it 12 deg advance, then plug in. I did that and it sounded really good, and idles well. I do feel it lacks a little power.
@@rueban96 When you set your base timing to zero and plugged the wire back in, did you check your timing again? It should have read about 14 degrees advanced. This reading is past the timing marks. I had to use the adjustment on my timing light to see the mark. If plugging the wire back in did not alter your timing reading, your computer is not advancing the timing, or you unplugged the wrong wire. This is a common mistake, that I made myself. Several videos said the advance wire was on the drivers side of the firewall, next to the power brake booster. I found that wire and tried it first. It had no effect on my timing. Some videos said the wire was inside the cab, under the dash on the passenger side. This was not the case on my 89 Silverado 5.7L.
@@jamesmumford774 mine was on the passenger side in the engine bay by the firewall. It did advance because when I set to zero unplugged it still ran fairly well, but when I plugged in - she barely ran and I could no longer see the line. I did some digging last night and saw some articles that matched my buddy's advice. I get my truck back from the shop today. If the sticker on the shroud is in tact I'll snap a pic.
@@rueban96 That is odd. My 89 idles better with the advance cranked up a few degrees. That is until you plug the computer back in. Then it is a matter of too much of a good thing. I never went beyond 6 degrees of extra advance. This definitely sounds like a timing issue. Bearing in mind that your truck ran better with 12 degrees initial timing, (which is a lot of total timing when combined with the advance from the computer), I would not rule out a weak spark in one or more cylinders, or poor fuel atomization thus requiring a little more time to burn properly. I would also suggest you check the computer codes, if you have not already done so. I simply used the paper clip method and printed a list of OBD1 codes from Google. There are plenty of videos on that. I hope I have offered up something useful. I will gladly respond to any inquiries, if I can be of help.
l always use a $2 white paint pen, works great and good for marking tools and steel for layout etc...
Great tip!
Thanks big help, thanks for explaining the different locations for the advance wire.
Glad to help. Thanks for watching.
You don’t need a dial back light but you’ll want one, because they make life a lot easier when verifying timing
Dial Back lights are great, but that is more advanced than this video was describing and not necessary for setting the stock timing on this set-up.
Axle's Garage /
Nope verifying timing whether it’s 0 degrees, 36 or anything in between is easier and more accurate with that kind of light, you certainly can do it with a basic light just like you can brake lug nuts loose with a breaker bar, but I’d rather have an impact gun
Appreciate this! Gonna attempt to time my camaro now hope all goes good.
Easy fix. Thanks for Watching.
Hey i put on a new tbi on 92 suburban and i have a new distributor i cant get it to running right how u set up the engine on the #1
Remove #1 Spark plug, stick finger over hole 'sealing' it. have helper bump engine over until you feel pressure squeezing out past your finger. then rotate engine by hand until timing pointer is at 0 on the balancer.
So what if a guy wants to swap in a replacement cam and he goes to break it in, do you need that advance wire connected or could u 0 it out and break it in without the wire connected
I would do cam break-in with the wire connected. You'll need the advance during the break-in run, without it the exhaust temps will be way too high and engine temps will be high as well. It is enough to burn the coating off a set of headers..... ask me how I know;)
@@AxlesGarage yea I seen that on some TBI break in videos guys saying it gets pretty hot and they have to shut it down, see my worry is doing the job having to start is zero it out shut off and connect advance timing wire then start and shoot for the moon...is what I was told by summit racing but that seems like I'm just asking for a flate lobe 😫 I guess if the chain is dot to dot that should be TDC so maybe I should just connect the wire before first start and see if she starts right up?
I would try to get it anywhere from 0-8 and then add the wire. or your could set it to about 16-24 without wire for break-in. No load during cam break in, will tolerate lots of timing.
I lost timing on my 87 r10 350 tbi and I watched so many videos i keep getting backfired and fire on my tbi
Sounds like you are 180 degrees off. Reinstall your distributor, ensuring #1 is on TDC
So I did every single step you had mentioned. Idled beautiful right at 0*, hooked up the advance and shut it off. Started it up. It surges at idle. Vroooooom, poplopopop, vrooOOOOOoomm
I'm wondering if you have a distributor problem or a computer problem.
Great job on the video sir. I think its wonderfully done.
Thank you kindly!
Mine is excellent midband but hella sluggish off the line. Timing was set at 10 degress after tdc. Dunno why but will correct tonorrow. Thx for the vid. Mpg is 8 to the gallon 😬. Pushing 38" though. Def not a commuter car.
How did you make out after the timing adjustment?
Better but with the overall design of these emission based motors still not as good as a 350 naturally aspirated motor. But eh, better gas mileage but loss of power. Tit for tat. Still turns my 38s well and tows my dirtbikes well. What u working with? Did u keep the stock or swap?
My sticker says 6 degrees timing, not zero. And put it in Drive and block the tires so they won't move , does it make a difference if it's in drive or park???
Should I set it at Zero, for base timing, like you did? My sticker says 6??? Also my sticker says put the timing light lead not on number one but on distributor main power lead wire the one in the middle??? Does it make a difference ???
Thanks for the detailed easy yo follow teaching
Glad to help
I've never found my wire.
I've allways looked in passenger side.mines a 89 v3500 4x4
Best video I've seen!
I dont care if the guy does talk funny,he must be from out a town?
Steve ,Rockmart Georgia,Trump 2020! Stop the steal.
1.82 a gal to 2.59 in 5 weeks
THANK YOU!
Glad to Help. 1.99 on Election Day and 2.79 Today here in NY
Great video well explained.
Glad you liked it
what usually is the cause of a 43 and 44 code on a 92 chevy k1500. occasional stalling at idle and take off. check engine light comes and goes thanks
Does the wires on the cap have to be in a certain place? Other than the #1 wire lined up with the rotor bug at tdc. I'm having trouble timing my 87. Also does the cap need to be in a certain place? For instance the 2 plug on back of cap should to point in a certain place? Any help would be nice. I've tried what you did in video I'm just hoping the computer or something isn't fryed.
YES the wires have to be in a certain place.
#1 wire, at TDC the rotor should be just a hair before #1, then follow the firing order around the cap. Thanks for Watching.
Man you just took me back to 1979! Yes the wires have to be in a certain place. I scrambled the wires on the plugs and distributor once. Luckily not bad enough to where it wouldn't run; it just backfired a lot. I learned FIRING ORDER that day!
@@JustPlainCommonSense I know the firing order is important I got that. I mean does It matter if the #1 plug on the cap has to be in a certain place. I probably didn't word my initial question right.
So i have a 91 s10 blazer and i have a rich running condition and i did the timing and had the black and tan wire disconnected then when i shut the truck off and turn it back on its like 17 degrees before tdc any one know if that is normal i have a new map and egr and cts and oil pressure sensor/ switch in it and new ignition system
17 is normal.
@@AxlesGarage yea i just went and got a new cat and did a tbi rebuild and now its running great not that it wasnt running good before but it passed smog and was a huge difference in tests the old blazer is running super green now
My harmonic balancer has 2 markings which one should I use?
Bring #1 to TDC on the compression stroke, the correct line should be closest to the indicator tab, a few degrees before TDC
Good video......that worked great for my k5
Glad it helped, Thanks for watching
Can't find the brown/black wire on my 1990 c1500 350.Do you know where it is?
Should be in the vicinity of the video, somewhere near the brake booster. 89/90 /91 should be the same
i got my timing set to 0. plug in the ecm and its stays at 0. also doesnt advance when you give it throttle... any ideas!?
This is going to be tough to troubleshoot. Could be bad distributor, bad wiring, or bad ECM. I would start by tracing the wire and make sure there are no obvious breaks.
@@AxlesGarage i went after the wires with a meter, im leaning distributor also. thanks for the video! it was very helpful
@@AxlesGarage solved!!! bad distributor! i also had 4 and 6 wires switch somehow...THANKS FOR THE HELP!!!!!!
Glad it worked out, thanks for watching.
I bought a 84 k5 at first it would crank but not start. Barely started for a second back fired died and won’t even crank now any ideas? It’s got an hei distributor and supposedly a new motor. I thought timing Bc it would just crank and crank but not start.
Just like another commentor +texastough FIRST. Verify the distributor is not 180 off. Sounds like that is the backfire place to start.
I thought you were supposed to do a jumper wire in diagnostic port 1 to port 2 to fully close the iac. Then set timing and remove jumper wire.
Not that I have ever seen, once you disconnect the computer advance, you can adjust without any issues. Thanks for watching.
On the 84 and later cars you do put the wire in 1 and 2.
axle, I have an 89 chevy with the 5.7 . rebuilt heads, installed all new wires, new plugs, complete new distributor ,rotor and cap. set timing to zero BTDC, with timing connector runplugged, rebuilt throttle body, replaced fuel pump, Iac, TPS, tested EGR, checked for vacuum leaks. im getting a surging idle and backfire thru the throttle body,. when it backfires, it backfires so hard, it sounds like something is spinning in the intake,.,. weird.. I dont know what to check next.. im wondering if maybe my timing has jumped,. not sure how to tell. it seems to run worse cold and open loop. if I gradually ramp throttle up it usually doesnt back fire thru the intake, but if I snap the throttle it pops. Ive checked several time for vacuum leaks, checked all possible areas including pcv, egr, intake, evap cannister, brake booster, ect. replaced ignition coil also . fuel pressure is about. 14 psi... strange thing, if I pinch fuel return line partially close, it will smooth the idle . I have also tested 02 sensor, TPS sensor, all in spec. replaced CTS as well. im whipped! ha
FIRST. Verify the distributor is not 180 off. Sounds like that is the backfire place to start.
@@AxlesGarage will it start and run at 180 off? also, I just found out it has 4.3 liter injectors in it.
will not enough fuel cause backfire thru intake?
Backfire is when combustion goes up through the intake and not out the exhaust. The most common cause is improper ignition timing. The second most common cause is improper valve adjustment. A given cylinder should fire when both valves are closed, the expanding gasses push the piston down and back around then exhaust valve open to push the gasses out the exhaust. Then intake valve open to suck in fresh fuel. (This is a simplified description). SO, if the fuel ignites while the intake valve is still open the expanding gasses will take the easiest route back up through the intake... that's a back fire. I have never found that a lean (not enough fuel) condition to cause a backfire. The first step is to confirm proper ignition timing.
@@AxlesGarage I found a set of 5.7 injectors todays and replaced the wrong 4.3 injectors that were in it.. no more surging, no more backfire.
Thanks for posting... That gave me an idea now... Was doing mine different. Thanks.
Glad we could help. Thanks for watching.
much appreciated for the info. saved me a heap of frustration.
Glad to help
Great video! By your accent, I can tell you're from NY, PA MA or somethin' lol. I have an 85 caprice, tbi as well. V6 4.3 (262)
Thanks for watching. The accent is NY (long Island)
Definitely Long Island ✌️
Thank you for the video. Great job
Glad to help
Great Vid man very direct information very good thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Will bad timing cause hard shift and jumping on when shifting out of park
Usually not
@@AxlesGarage I figured it out. The tps needed adjustment. I was getting 1.20v when I should be getting 0.55 and it immediately fixed the issue
This definitely helped me! In my 93 s10, my timing connection was right behind the top lip of the carpet on the passenger side right under the glove box.
Glad to help
95 chevy pickup truck back fires thru carb and bogs down when you step on gas ... Help please it's my dads truck and he need help 5.7 I believe
Check to make sure the distributor isn't 180 off
Where should the distributer housing be in terms of the bat
Ian, the rotation only matter in relation to #1
VERY great video !
Thank you very much!
How come I'm looking up parts for one of these blazers especially the 89 which is an actually a V10 not a K5 no matter it's GMC or Chevrolet you can't find it under K5 find it under V10
At some point in the 80's they change the Blazer/Suburban to V and K was only used for 4wd pickups
This video is the shit! Helped me out totally on my OBS Suburban k2500
Glad to help
What was that rattle knocking that started?
Turned out to be a broken starter gear retention spring. I did a video on it here: th-cam.com/video/3zf80eEdeJk/w-d-xo.html
Great explanation thanks
Glad to help
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you so much. Saved my tail.🤘🤘
Glad we could help. Thanks for watching.
Awesome thank you for this, very helpful!
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video
You bet
put in a Pertronix distributor..best distributor ive ever used.. and its electronic..or trade the truck to me..lol swap it to an Edelbrock carb, less problems and it needs headers.. get good wires and plugs
I thought about headers, but the heads on those TBI engines flow so crappy, you really don't get any performance increase with headers...other than tone. I have used Pertronix and old style HEI's in the past on older stuff.
Y Pipe is actually the biggest restriction in there. Upside of headers, you will get rid of that Y as well. But you could just do the Y only.
It has an electronic distributor. Its the same magnetic pickup as a pertronix basicly.
Just ls swap it.
You don't think it has anything to do with the gears on the cam and the crank and then the distributor to the cam timing chain links I'm pretty sure that's why it's a little bit on the distributor moves a lot on the crank because it's geared with the cam and the timing set by a roller chain and two gears plus your worm drive on the distributor and the crank since why the distributor gear slanted the way it is to mess up with the worm gear
Yeah, thanks for the info
Any idea on how to find the number 1 on distr. cap ?
Follow spark plug wire from #1 cylinder to the cap.
@@AxlesGarage I was an idiot and redid the entire cap , plugs , wires and replaced them all with new parts I have the same engine as yours though . I have a 1987 Chevy R20 custom deluxe .. can’t for the life of me get the number one correct on the distributer cap . Any other ideas ?
OK, now I get it, you are going to have to verify the location of your rotor at TDC on the #1 Cyl. Do some google-tubing. There are tons of videos on the subject. Its a bit more involved than I can explain in a comment. Steps:
1. remove Cap
2. Remove #1 Plug
3> find TDC on #1
4. Mark position of rotor while at #1 TDC on base of dist.
5. Replace cap, use the mark you made to transfer up to the post either on or just after the mark you made. #1 wire goes there.
6. each subsequent wire should go around clockwise following the SBC firing order.
7. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
@@AxlesGarage excellent ! Seems I’ve got firing order correct now , however truck will run too retarded or advanced to carry an idle properly- it just bogs out and dies ( can’t even warm the truck up in order to get accurate timing ..) any advice on how to just get the damn truck to run is there a place between too retarded and advanced somewhere in between I should get it so the damn thing atleast idles ?
@@AxlesGarage I appreciate it , this damn truck doesn’t want to FING idle or run .. damn things PISSING ME THE HECK OFF
What was the ticking noise
Bad starter solenoid, didn't hold the drive gear off the flexplate.
What was the noise?
Loose starter drive gear. Video here: th-cam.com/video/3zf80eEdeJk/w-d-xo.html
get a cover for your mic 🎤😉 so we can hear you when it's windy!
Thanks Tony, we tried a cover, the camera was dropped one to many times. Just changed to a new wireless mic. Thanks for Watching>
Descent walk through instructions
Thanks for watching.
Axle's Garage believe me it was my pleasure, thank you is in order sir.
great tipnto highlight to markings. i couldnt see shit until i did that
Same here, filling the groove with White-Out works best for me. Thanks for watching.
the engineer math is crank turns 2 times for every time the cam and distributer turns once
Probably the one thing that can go wrong during tune-up. Base timing procedure should be correctly verified/adjusted per mfg instruction with distributor type computer controlled ignition. Distributor less ign ⚡️is another ball of wax...
Yes sir, you are correct
Ok guys, the midwest to northeast dialect is a bit off but do you mean it kicks and fires and sorta...not hesitates. Like an automatic lean rev...I got that. 1m between 21.7-17.5 timing advanced at a 750 idle, In my sight see mostly sticky goopy 202k miles considered...relatively clean lol it pops code 35 engine lean I go to swap the IAC from my first truck a 94 K1500 Blazer sport victory red graphite gray bottom it was a beauty...IAC is on a tech 1a doing...what it should be...the two studs and bolt were loose that hold the tbi down and the f@%%#^ IAC has survived so well...I was able to spin it off by hand...its always cheap and simple but thin kn outside the box fixing these things lol its sometimes someone doing wrong trying to do a positive or whatever just get yourself a feel of the wiring look under the conduit and fire it and wiggle some connectors you might just find you first palm moment...that's engines sweet for 300 lb feet of ...the thing really melts tires if you got nice tires I wouldn't do a brake stand l lol
Why will timing change once engine warms up
Computer adjusts timing and air/fuel to give a good cold idle. Without computer, the cold idle could be a bit rough and the engine could surge a bit. When it surges, the centrifugal advance (if any) can affect baseline timing. So in order to get a smooth and consistent timing reading, it's best to have the engine at operating temps. Thanks for Watching.
And the AC off.
PS. Im from Bayshore
Western Nassau here
tHANKS . gREAT LEARNING EXPERIENCE. RESPECFERLY, BOONEE SLIMM @FB
Thanks for watching!