I replaced the distributor in my '95 2 door Tahoe and it ran like pure crap afterwards. I did not know there was a brown wire w black stripe under the glove box that has to be unplugged first or the ECM will advance the time 20 degrees. Thank God for TH-cam videos. Mine was way off! My harmonic balancer was also covered in crud and I couldn't see my timing mark. With the engine running I crawled under it with a steel bristle brush (for cleaning my charcoal grill. Ha!) and held it against the balancer as it spun and it came spotlessly clean in seconds so I could see the timing mark. After setting time correctly it ran like a champ! I made a celebratory trip to the beer store afterwards.
that tapping under the dash is your "blend door actuator" located behind the glove box, it acts as a fuse also and can fry components in your dash if not replaced. It operates a door for your heat/ac control switch to change from blowing air on defrost/floor/vents
thorjames26 look up chevrolet blend door actuator, for the one on the passenger side normally you would remove the glove box completley to get behind it, as well as most of the duct work under the dash for a part the size of a hockey puck. It sucks but while you have it all apart you might as well replace the under dash light bulbs, i bear hugged the dash holding a microrachet in one hand and finger on the socket with the other, all for 1 screw. Sounds horrible and it is. I would recomend a weekend of pulling the dash apart. Reason is when that part doesnt work it sometimes acts like a fuse and short circuits the dash, frying your radio.
Lmbooofff my truck makes that same clicking annoying sound.. I've unhooked the wrong wire smh. Now shes running great. (No more stalling out )Thanks for making this video.
Also, if your brown wire with a black stripe is not in the engine compartment, then check right behind the glove compartment. I have a 1994 Chevy k1500 5.7L and they moved it on that year to behind the glove compartment inside the truck - right next to the computer. The glove compartment comes out without unscrewing anything, by the way. It's completely tool-less. It could also be closer to the floor by the carpet and blower motor under the glove compartment in some trucks.
I've got a 1993 and I could hear the thumping noise in the background yall were talking about on the truck you were working on and mine does the same thing. It's a loud thumping noise coming from somewhere around the heater box/blower motor. I hear the noise each time the key is turned on and each time its turned off. My 1993 never made that noise until the a/c and heater control display went out. I was wondering if y'all were ever able to address the issue and figure out what to do to fix it. Hope to hear back from you. Thanks Jared
Hey this video helped me out so much if I had not watched it I would have pulled the distributor or maybe I still may need to .timing is set on my 93. now I'll check to see if its that door that is ticking next .will the tick go hirer when you hit the gas? I know I don't get as hot of heat as my 1992 but this helped so much ....
My new crate engine is not starting. I have sparked oxygen and fuel. Can the timing light work to see if I'm at top dead center just cranking the engine. All the same steps you are doing less running?
No you can't check for TDC with the timing light..take your distributor cap off..Now pull out your number one plug which is the first plug on the drivers side in the front of the block..now turn over your engine by hand with the crankshaft bolt..turn it clockwise until the line on the pulley lines up with 0 or the Arrow on your timing chain cover..stick a straw into the spark plug hole if it doesn't go all the way down your piston is at the top..now look at where your rotor is pointing..if it's pointing towards the firewall you are not at the compression stroke or the distributor is in 180 off..if it's pointed towards the front somewhat you should be at TDC..if you have a round distributor cap the number one plug goes where the Rotor is pointing..mark the distributor where it's pointing and when you put the cap back on you'll know which plug wire connection is above the mark...let me know if that helped you out
I have a K5 blazer its a 92 it's in great shape that i am suprised of BUT the poor ol' girl is making popping and sputtering sounds at idle if i give it full throttle she back fires in the intake i am almost certain it's the timing the previous owner had installed a brand new distributor could he have possibly made an error with the timing? Would that be a diagnosis that makes more sense? Mind u i already rebuilt the TBI system any comments would help. Thanks, Proud Chevy Owner
+Andrew Sybert Souns like it. i recently ran into that same problem we played and played with timing and got better but was still backfiring, he put a high rise intake on and it was too much for the mild 350. hope this may help too
If you don't have the tan and black wires out by fire wall look just to thre right of the console by the top of the rug ,or behind glove box ..I have found it in different places good luck...
Did you find out what was causing the ticking sound when you turn the engine off. My 1992 Silverado does the same thing. I've been told it is a plastic gear inside my heater somewhere and the teeth are worn. Just wondering if you've worked it out?
there is actually a set of breakers that are under the dash you need to locate the one that is ticking and replace it. remove the glove box and cycle the truck long enough to cause the tick and out your finger on the three breakers and locate which one is bad they are expensive.
That ticking is your "blend door actuator." It's an electric motor that opens and closes doors in your dash to direct the heater and A/C air. Sounds like the one that recycles the A/C air from inside the cab when "Max" A/C is turned on. It's right behind the blower motor in the passenger foot-well, where the firewall meets the cab floor. When you turn the truck on and off it opens and closes - and since it's weak and failing - you get the tick tick tick every time it tries to open and close. $20-$30 part. Installation is a pain in the ass. *You do not need to take the glove compartment out, by the way.*
It didn't look like the white line on the balancer was at the 0 degree mark. Looked like it was to the left of it. You didn't need to make sure the engine was at TDC and the rotor pointing at the number one before you did all of this?
The ticking time bomb is possibly the actuator for the air diverter behind the blower motor, sounds like the diverter door is probably stuck. Try changing your climate control temperature setting back and forth from hot to cold. You will know real quick if working right. GM trucks are known all to well for this problem
that ticking is the blower flate look under passenger side under-dash up against firewall you'll see a couple hoses that go to the heater core directly above those hoses kind of to the right is a little box that screwed to the blower box unplug that plug or replace the part and the flap flap flap flap stuff will be go away how to do it on my 93 Chevy
juan marshall it's my daily driver..right now it needs a new radiator and rear brake cylinders but I've been too lazy to get out in the cold and work on it so I just keep it topped off.its also my gold prospecting truck so it goes 4x4ing alot...and still haven't replaced the actuator ticking time bomb
I need help im already pulling my hairs of i need a solution when i press on the gas in my 93 gmc tbi starts to stall and pushing its self and then shuts off...wtf is going on help needed
+sal oliva, +Andrew Sybert you have a couple reasons it could be doing that. not knowing everything you have done/ tried here is a basic list of what I have found as "common" fixes 1. fuel filter. if it's pretty old replace it. 2. cap/rotor/wires/plugs---not necessarily replace but check to make sure they aren't corroded and still in good service life. usually everyone starts with those. but here's a little farther in TPS (throttle position sensor) IAC (idle air control) valve. it controls idle and fuel mixture. its a 5 minute change. I've had one bad and it kills MPG, will stall out on decel, stall out taking off, no low end power and less power through the range. mines a manual so I could usually keep it from dying. fuel pressure regulator, especially if its running rich and flooding out. engine temp sensor. the 2 wire one by the thermostat. the single wire is for your dash. EGR not functioning properly- plugged or bad valve. vacuum leak-which I hate looking for, but usually an easy fix. but hopefully by now you have them all fixed and running strong
You should have set your advanced timing light to 20 deg adv and made sure the ECM is advancing the timing to 20deg. You guessed it was 20 but if your good with that OK.
On the 94 and 95 the timing disconnect is under the dash. If its never been messed with it will be taped to the firewall side of a bundle of wires under the glovebox. Hard to see but when you find it its easy to get to
better get my timing light out of the trash couldnt figure out why it ran like crap on the mark but ran like a champ way above the mark 20°advanced plug
I replaced the distributor in my '95 2 door Tahoe and it ran like pure crap afterwards. I did not know there was a brown wire w black stripe under the glove box that has to be unplugged first or the ECM will advance the time 20 degrees. Thank God for TH-cam videos. Mine was way off! My harmonic balancer was also covered in crud and I couldn't see my timing mark. With the engine running I crawled under it with a steel bristle brush (for cleaning my charcoal grill. Ha!) and held it against the balancer as it spun and it came spotlessly clean in seconds so I could see the timing mark. After setting time correctly it ran like a champ! I made a celebratory trip to the beer store afterwards.
this video help me a lot. thanks for putting it on TH-cam.
My 94 sierra did the same thing, , lol, i tgought mine was unique but i guess not
that tapping under the dash is your "blend door actuator" located behind the glove box, it acts as a fuse also and can fry components in your dash if not replaced. It operates a door for your heat/ac control switch to change from blowing air on defrost/floor/vents
+ogrekrause how do fix this problem i just go t one with this problem to
thorjames26 look up chevrolet blend door actuator, for the one on the passenger side normally you would remove the glove box completley to get behind it, as well as most of the duct work under the dash for a part the size of a hockey puck. It sucks but while you have it all apart you might as well replace the under dash light bulbs, i bear hugged the dash holding a microrachet in one hand and finger on the socket with the other, all for 1 screw. Sounds horrible and it is. I would recomend a weekend of pulling the dash apart. Reason is when that part doesnt work it sometimes acts like a fuse and short circuits the dash, frying your radio.
Thank you. My truck has the same problem.
Same problem. My radio is fried and I couldn’t figure it out. Didn’t have any idea it was related to the ac door actuator
Anyone have a pic of that actuator?
Lmbooofff my truck makes that same clicking annoying sound.. I've unhooked the wrong wire smh. Now shes running great. (No more stalling out )Thanks for making this video.
That ticking noise is the A/C recirculation door up behind the glove box.
Thanks for the video dude! I have some cheap aftermarket alarm that I couldn’t bypass in a pinch / cut my wires and hot wired this baby!
How funny my 94 k1500 pick up does that same clicking noise when you turn key on or off. Very nicely done on the video, ty.
Well done video. Thanks for taking time to point out the timing tab and location of wire that has to be disconnected for timing. Thanks!!
Thanks this was very helpful.no one else explained it in detailed as you did.
Use the advance dial on your light. Turn it to twenty degrees and your timing mark will line up at zero. Thats how you verify it
Also, if your brown wire with a black stripe is not in the engine compartment, then check right behind the glove compartment. I have a 1994 Chevy k1500 5.7L and they moved it on that year to behind the glove compartment inside the truck - right next to the computer. The glove compartment comes out without unscrewing anything, by the way. It's completely tool-less.
It could also be closer to the floor by the carpet and blower motor under the glove compartment in some trucks.
cccalhoun that’s awesome I was just about to comment the same thing because it took me a minute to find mine on my 94
you sir was a huge help this morning
The ticking in the day is a blend door actuator. It's part of the HVAC system
"Buy some beer, kick back, and tear the truck apart" being a shade tree mechanic has its advantages :D
I've got a 1993 and I could hear the thumping noise in the background yall were talking about on the truck you were working on and mine does the same thing. It's a loud thumping noise coming from somewhere around the heater box/blower motor. I hear the noise each time the key is turned on and each time its turned off. My 1993 never made that noise until the a/c and heater control display went out. I was wondering if y'all were ever able to address the issue and figure out what to do to fix it. Hope to hear back from you.
Thanks
Jared
Do have to have the engine at operating temperature before you set the timing?
Holy shit that thing is clean!
Thank you brother. Good information 👍
Thank You. That thing is CLEAN!
How do you keep that engine bay so clean. Everything looks new
TheCamaro5 u got to b a 🔧mechanic 🔩to keep a truck that clean .
The blower motor is what’s making that tapping mine does it to
When it is off timing does it do a chopping noise while running the truck ??
Hey this video helped me out so much if I had not watched it I would have pulled the distributor or maybe I still may need to .timing is set on my 93. now I'll check to see if its that door that is ticking next .will the tick go hirer when you hit the gas? I know I don't get as hot of heat as my 1992 but this helped so much ....
Would this be the same for the c1500
My new crate engine is not starting. I have sparked oxygen and fuel. Can the timing light work to see if I'm at top dead center just cranking the engine. All the same steps you are doing less running?
No you can't check for TDC with the timing light..take your distributor cap off..Now pull out your number one plug which is the first plug on the drivers side in the front of the block..now turn over your engine by hand with the crankshaft bolt..turn it clockwise until the line on the pulley lines up with 0 or the Arrow on your timing chain cover..stick a straw into the spark plug hole if it doesn't go all the way down your piston is at the top..now look at where your rotor is pointing..if it's pointing towards the firewall you are not at the compression stroke or the distributor is in 180 off..if it's pointed towards the front somewhat you should be at TDC..if you have a round distributor cap the number one plug goes where the Rotor is pointing..mark the distributor where it's pointing and when you put the cap back on you'll know which plug wire connection is above the mark...let me know if that helped you out
@@gringochoppers I will thanks
I have a K5 blazer its a 92 it's in great shape that i am suprised of BUT the poor ol' girl is making popping and sputtering sounds at idle if i give it full throttle she back fires in the intake i am almost certain it's the timing the previous owner had installed a brand new distributor could he have possibly made an error with the timing? Would that be a diagnosis that makes more sense? Mind u i already rebuilt the TBI system any comments would help. Thanks, Proud Chevy Owner
+Andrew Sybert Souns like it. i recently ran into that same problem we played and played with timing and got better but was still backfiring, he put a high rise intake on and it was too much for the mild 350. hope this may help too
+Merc #927 thank you
You need a tune up change spark plugs and distributer and wires
What happens to the radio? Fuse trips, or ?
Tom is correct.. It is the motor on the mixture door
If you don't have the tan and black wires out by fire wall look just to thre right of the console by the top of the rug ,or behind glove box ..I have found it in different places good luck...
Did you find out what was causing the ticking sound when you turn the engine off. My 1992 Silverado does the same thing. I've been told it is a plastic gear inside my heater somewhere and the teeth are worn. Just wondering if you've worked it out?
there is actually a set of breakers that are under the dash you need to locate the one that is ticking and replace it. remove the glove box and cycle the truck long enough to cause the tick and out your finger on the three breakers and locate which one is bad they are expensive.
That ticking is your "blend door actuator." It's an electric motor that opens and closes doors in your dash to direct the heater and A/C air.
Sounds like the one that recycles the A/C air from inside the cab when "Max" A/C is turned on. It's right behind the blower motor in the passenger foot-well, where the firewall meets the cab floor. When you turn the truck on and off it opens and closes - and since it's weak and failing - you get the tick tick tick every time it tries to open and close. $20-$30 part. Installation is a pain in the ass. *You do not need to take the glove compartment out, by the way.*
It didn't look like the white line on the balancer was at the 0 degree mark. Looked like it was to the left of it. You didn't need to make sure the engine was at TDC and the rotor pointing at the number one before you did all of this?
thank you buddy, from the north end of I-35
yeah I disconnected the motor to my mixture flap. no noise.
Very helpful! Bravo!
That tapping is the actuator motor behind the dash for the ac
The ticking time bomb is possibly the actuator for the air diverter behind the blower motor, sounds like the diverter door is probably stuck. Try changing your climate control temperature setting back and forth from hot to cold. You will know real quick if working right. GM trucks are known all to well for this problem
I guess you didn't read the previous comments
Did you ever figure out what that ticking in the background was ?
Blendor motor is what the ticking is
thanks that helps alot...clean trucy
Clean truck
That ticking is your fan door actuator for your air conditioning.
can't get my 93 Chevrolet suburban to crank. after changing my timing change what can I do
That ticking is the recirculator my truck does to
that ticking is the blower flate look under passenger side under-dash up against firewall you'll see a couple hoses that go to the heater core directly above those hoses kind of to the right is a little box that screwed to the blower box unplug that plug or replace the part and the flap flap flap flap stuff will be go away how to do it on my 93 Chevy
That ticking noise is a blend door actuator
thankyou for this!
This the same area for a 94 ?
Not sure..some were under the dash
it's too damn clean under that truck do you ever drive and I'm getting sick. good job.
juan marshall it's my daily driver..right now it needs a new radiator and rear brake cylinders but I've been too lazy to get out in the cold and work on it so I just keep it topped off.its also my gold prospecting truck so it goes 4x4ing alot...and still haven't replaced the actuator ticking time bomb
Good video..really wish you would've zoomed out tho.
That noise you hear. Theres a trap door right under the dash board..on the right side.. I put a bolt or something to hold it open.
That ticking is the actuator for the a/c vent door
ACT1V3R3L0AD3R..yeah that was figured out long ago
I need help im already pulling my hairs of i need a solution when i press on the gas in my 93 gmc tbi starts to stall and pushing its self and then shuts off...wtf is going on help needed
Did u find an answer? I have the same issue, thanks.
+sal oliva, +Andrew Sybert
you have a couple reasons it could be doing that. not knowing everything you have done/ tried here is a basic list of what I have found as "common" fixes
1. fuel filter. if it's pretty old replace it.
2. cap/rotor/wires/plugs---not necessarily replace but check to make sure they aren't corroded and still in good service life.
usually everyone starts with those. but here's a little farther in
TPS (throttle position sensor)
IAC (idle air control) valve. it controls idle and fuel mixture. its a 5 minute change. I've had one bad and it kills MPG, will stall out on decel, stall out taking off, no low end power and less power through the range. mines a manual so I could usually keep it from dying.
fuel pressure regulator, especially if its running rich and flooding out.
engine temp sensor. the 2 wire one by the thermostat. the single wire is for your dash.
EGR not functioning properly- plugged or bad valve.
vacuum leak-which I hate looking for, but usually an easy fix.
but hopefully by now you have them all fixed and running strong
Thanks Snorider49
Thanks
You should have set your advanced timing light to 20 deg adv and made sure the ECM is advancing the timing to 20deg. You guessed it was 20 but if your good with that OK.
the clicking is a vacuum leak in the heater unit in the dash mine does the same thing lol
Slapping noise is a heater door trying to find it's home position.
Blend door actuator is what its called
that ticking noise is a broken acctuator that controls your dampers on your heat / ac
Question my '95 don't have the connections on the fire wall like you have so.... where do I find my wire and the color for it? I have a '95 305ci.
On the 94 and 95 the timing disconnect is under the dash. If its never been messed with it will be taped to the firewall side of a bundle of wires under the glovebox. Hard to see but when you find it its easy to get to
ok thanx mike and for the tip!!!!! :D
Do you not put number one cylinder on tdc?
don't forget to clear the ECM codes after setting timing...
Mil gracias
What if my truck turns off whenever i set it to 0 degrees😅
Time to buy a new truck or replace your wife,either or you’re still a winner and god doesn’t love u
To hell with that water line, put the old school hose adapter in the intake manifold and hook a heater hose held on by a hose clamp to it.
My truck tucks like that to
That's only with no wear on timing sprocket and chain
It's your actuator making that disturbing noise
Just unplug the blend door actuator up under the dash, and forget about it. Problem solved.
better get my timing light out of the trash couldnt figure out why it ran like crap on the mark but ran like a champ way above the mark 20°advanced plug
I got a head ache just watching this video man that camera was shaking alot
Gracias
I ended up with a headache watching this video you need help someone who can hold the camera
Tom is correct.. It is the motor on the mixture door